Hi Stephen, Just printed my first Cyanotype and wanted to know how to progress with wet cyanotypes etc. Have now been watching your videos for the last few hours.(Lovely to hear a northern accent !!) Brilliant am hooked. Today was a beautiful day so can't wait for the next one to experiment further. Thank you
Beautiful image. Just a slight tinge of blue left, but that looks just great. I am not fond of the extremely blue cyanotypes for hanging on the wall, but this could really do. Thanks!
Really nice tonality. I saw another video of someone bleaching their print in sodium carbonate (until the image is just present, toning, then using a bath of straight white vinegar. The final result was quite good, but your use of an orange mask seems to produce very pleasing results. Btw, the vinegar bath gave a much needed increase in the darkest areas (for their print). It would be interesting to see what would happen with your prints using this
The UV light you link to in the description is no longer available. It was 30w, and had the Wavelength at 385nm to 400nm. I was looking at 365nm lights, but the print you made here in 9 minutes looks great! Do you mix any hydrogen peroxide or vinegar into your first rinse? The software I use to create my negatives isn't nearly as fancy... just the simple "adjust color" tools available with the "Preview" software that comes on a Mac. I'll boost the detail a bit on the negative image, and the contrast. After watching this video, I'm wondering if adding a bit of orange tint would make it richer. Anyway... great work... on the photography and on the instructional video!
Thanks for this informative video. Could you do a video on curves, I don't understand how the curve needs to be adjusted and what makes a good negative. Thank you
Hi Stephen, another very informative video, however it's left me with some questions I hope you will find the time to answer. 1. do you print your digital Negative on a standard inkjet photo printer 2. can the paper you use be a photo paper or does it have to be a Water colour paper. 3. What is the chemicals you use to pre coat the paper with Thank you in advance. and when all this is over maybe we could meet up for a photo day as we are not that far away from each other Regards Graeme
Hi Graeme ,Yes I print on a cheap Canon 5057 printer ,you can use photo paper if its acid free I use acid free water colour paper , the chemicals I use are jacquard cyanotype sensitiser set , Sure will meet up when the time comes no problem . I will add links above to what I use .
Hi Stephen. Your print looks fine and your workflow sounds great. If I may I would like to say a few things about the way you tweek your curves in PS. Your final print could use more detail in the highlights and the reason it doesn't as to do with your curve method. Try to explore the curves layer a litlle further for the print to look more similar to the original image. I've read Christina Anderson book about Cyanotype and I'm applying that knowledge on contrast control in my prints. Have a look if you get the chance. Keep posting this videos. Good job.
another good video. thanks for sharing! I got to your channel through the wet cyanotype video. that was an interesting one for sure. specially the layering :) looking at this video, it's the first I see someone print the negative in color like you did. what difference does the orange/brown tone give to the end result?
Thanks Stephen, I am trying cyanotypes out, made a several prints, wrong paper (got paper water color paper). I will try this toning method. This was great.
Just about to try this, i have created the negative, and thanks for the tips, which side do you play against the cyanotype paper, the printed of non-printed side? Thanks
Thanks for the very informative video! I've read that you need to briefly bleach the print in alkalai before toning, so that's what I've been doing. But seeing your great results here makes me question my current workflow. I'll definitely be trying it your way tomorrow and see what I get! Thanks again for sharing!
Hi Stephen, thank you so much for your informative video. I learned more from you in just over ten minutes than I have from all of the other videos that I watched. It was so helpful. Can you please tell me what ink you use in your printer to print out your negative? Thank you so much again.
@@roachbasher Thank you so much. I am going to buy some today and experiment with this fascinating process. Thank you again for your amazing tutorial and your beautiful photographs. I also love the music you add to your videos. It really transports to the places that you have captured.
Many thanks for sharing your processes, truly useful. I would just suggest you to change your sound background with some more active music, this makes me sleep each time, sorry :) Something more positive will really turn the experience into fun and play, which I believe in fact it is. All the best!
Hi Denis my average time under my 30 watt lamp is about 9 minutes but you have to experiment with your lamp etc to get the best print , I use strong tea bags which give out more tannin so btw 40 mins to a hour .
Stephen, thank you for this. Loved the video. I have a Q though, can you tell me why did you apply the orange layer to the image before printing the negative?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, you are really generous! Your videos have motivated me for geting into cyanotype. I have two questions: my negatives tend to be overly contrasty - any idea how to fix this? Second: how do you get your edited cyanotypes flat again? I am layering them with books for some days but they tend to curl again. Thank you again and I am looking foreward to your next videos!
Hi play around with curves and watch what happens to neg till you get a neg you are happy with . I don’t hang my prints I leave them to dry on a flat surface over night and they stay flat .
@@roachbasher thank you for taking time to answer. I'll try that with the curves. I dry my prints on a flat surface too, but the curl anyway. Maybe it's a question of paper choice. Thank's again!
My camera program on my phone does not allow me to perform 'the magic'.....can you tell me what 'program' is used to accomplish what you did in the photo? PAM, the newbie 😊
I love your techniques, very interesting. Could you add more details about the UV light you used. Couldn't make it out. Brand, model and where you purchased it. Thanks so much.
here is the lamp I use www.amazon.co.uk/Ultraviolet-Blacklight-85V-265V-Waterproof-Aquarium/dp/B07KF78197/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1LY54AU0FJK5Y&keywords=30%2Bwatt%2Buv%2Blight&qid=1642100730&sprefix=30%2Bwatt%2Buv%2Blight%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-2-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyT0haTkVRNU5HVjdPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDI3Nzc1UUw4N1E0Mk5MN1BVJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyOTM2NTYxMEVBUDExQzk1TEI4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
Thank you very much for this very detailed tutorial! You've answered all the questions I had after watching other videos. Unfortunately, the transparent film you show in this video is no longer available. Do you have another brand/reference to recommend?
Hi, really interesting video. I was just wondering what software you use to edit the photograph? Also, can you see any reason this technique couldn't be used on ceramics?
I use photoshop , I use a canon camera maybe it will work off phone edits I have not tried it you will need a phone edit that allows you to convert to a negative .
You don't appear to bleach your print? Many other videos show putting the print into a solution of bleach and then rinsing that off before going on to the tea staining part?
Ich spülte den Druck in Tee. Das Ergebnis reicht aber nicht aus. Was mache ich falsch? Es ist immer noch blau. Und doch, wenn der Druck nicht kontrastreich genug ist und zum Licht neigt, ist er dann überbelichtet?
Hi! I've been trying to experiment with cyanotype for a few weeks now but every single time I go to put my pieces in the water after exposure, they completely wash out and no photos actually develop. I've experimented with exposure times, and even ordered more chemicals in case the first batch was tainted in some way, but no luck. Do you know what could be going wrong?
A couple of questions what paper are you using, how long and how are you exposing for ie outside or with uv box , are you letting your paper dry in a dark space ie cupboard or drawer.
What alterations would you suggest if only a black and white printer is available? It seems that simply turning into negative my picture dosnt work. Thank you!
You probably need to play around with the contrast to deepen the shadows and mid tones if your bw image doesn’t have much contrast . Try another image . You may have to play around with the image . Just turning a bw image into a negative doesn’t mean it will work .
I rinsed the print in tea. But the result is not enough. What am I doing wrong? It is still blue. And yet, if the print is not contrasting enough and tends to be light, is it overexposure?
How long did you leave the print , how much tea did you use , I use tea bags which I leave to steep for a while so the tannin comes out of the tea. Put the tea in a tray put your print in face down leave it for half an hour check it if it needs longer keep checking every 15 mins till this could take up to a hour or so it depends on the paper etc your using .
I would like to combine various elements from acetates to make a composite image, but I keep getting cut lines. Anyone know how to eliminate cut lines from transparencies?
Hi Stephen, Thanks for the video. I'm getting a great print but the tea soaking barely darkens the blue. Any additional advice for toning the print? I'm using PG Tips decaf tea very dark lots of tea.
I followed your steps, and when I did the gradient tool, the image did not turn orange but grey. I repeated several times and never achieve an orange overlayer.
Your paper is too small, best leave a wide (white) border around the print, which is more pleasing to the eye. Also narrow borders make framing difficult.
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Excellent work and tutorial! Thank you!
Hi Stephen,
Just printed my first Cyanotype and wanted to know how to progress with wet cyanotypes etc. Have now been watching your videos for the last few hours.(Lovely to hear a northern accent !!)
Brilliant am hooked.
Today was a beautiful day so can't wait for the next one to experiment further. Thank you
Your welcome glad your enjoying doing Cyanotype work
I've been reading and researching to start this, and your video has helped me more than anything else! Thank you for sharing. :)
Master artist.....wow.....
Wow, I never heard of the orange thing, very interesting!
Thank you for sharing this process - very informative
MARAVILLOSO...!!!!! Estoy contentísima de haberme encontrado con sus tutoriales, gracias, muchas gracias por su trabajo y explicaciones
Well done and easy to follow. I print my negs in red. It doesn't matter too much. :-)
Thank you much appreciated
That is brilliant, I am truly inspired. I HAVE to have a go at this!
Thumbs up.
Enhorabuena y gracias por su canal. Estoy aprendiendo mucho con sus explicaciones. Es un gran maestro.
This was excellent and im going to order some supplies and give it a go. Thank you
Beautiful image. Just a slight tinge of blue left, but that looks just great. I am not fond of the extremely blue cyanotypes for hanging on the wall, but this could really do. Thanks!
Really nice tonality.
I saw another video of someone bleaching their print in sodium carbonate (until the image is just present, toning, then using a bath of straight white vinegar. The final result was quite good, but your use of an orange mask seems to produce very pleasing results.
Btw, the vinegar bath gave a much needed increase in the darkest areas (for their print). It would be interesting to see what would happen with your prints using this
super informative thank you i feel inspired to print some myself!!
The UV light you link to in the description is no longer available. It was 30w, and had the Wavelength at 385nm to 400nm. I was looking at 365nm lights, but the print you made here in 9 minutes looks great! Do you mix any hydrogen peroxide or vinegar into your first rinse? The software I use to create my negatives isn't nearly as fancy... just the simple "adjust color" tools available with the "Preview" software that comes on a Mac. I'll boost the detail a bit on the negative image, and the contrast. After watching this video, I'm wondering if adding a bit of orange tint would make it richer. Anyway... great work... on the photography and on the instructional video!
Great process! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you, inspiring
Thank you
That's beautiful.
Thank you so much for this! Extremely helpful!
Fantastic video, thank you for sharing
Great video Ste. Great results good stuff !!
Cheers, Jeff.
Cheers Jeff
Fantastic really
Gracias por las instrucciones para el negativo, es algo que casi nadie explica
love your work! really great print. Thank you for your tips & advice, I've learned a lot.
Thanks for this informative video. Could you do a video on curves, I don't understand how the curve needs to be adjusted and what makes a good negative. Thank you
Thank you so much i have learned so much from your video`s also with photoshop.
Hi Stephen, another very informative video, however it's left me with some questions I hope you will find the time to answer.
1. do you print your digital Negative on a standard inkjet photo printer
2. can the paper you use be a photo paper or does it have to be a Water colour paper.
3. What is the chemicals you use to pre coat the paper with
Thank you in advance. and when all this is over maybe we could meet up for a photo day as we are not that far away from each other
Regards Graeme
Hi Graeme ,Yes I print on a cheap Canon 5057 printer ,you can use photo paper if its acid free I use acid free water colour paper , the chemicals I use are jacquard cyanotype sensitiser set , Sure will meet up when the time comes no problem . I will add links above to what I use .
Hi Stephen. Your print looks fine and your workflow sounds great. If I may I would like to say a few things about the way you tweek your curves in PS. Your final print could use more detail in the highlights and the reason it doesn't as to do with your curve method. Try to explore the curves layer a litlle further for the print to look more similar to the original image. I've read Christina Anderson book about Cyanotype and I'm applying that knowledge on contrast control in my prints. Have a look if you get the chance. Keep posting this videos. Good job.
Alexandre de Magalhães Thank you for your comment I have got the book to day so reading it at the moment to improve my work .
@@roachbasher glad you have it. Keep sharing your good work.
Super video Stephen and very helpful to me as I get back into Alternative processes….have you stopped posting to TH-cam?
Looks great thank you!
Thanks a lot for sharing, it's quite beatiful! One question, in the first picture, you rinse it in just water?
another good video. thanks for sharing! I got to your channel through the wet cyanotype video. that was an interesting one for sure. specially the layering :) looking at this video, it's the first I see someone print the negative in color like you did. what difference does the orange/brown tone give to the end result?
More contrast to the neg
Thanks for the great video!
Thanks Stephen, I am trying cyanotypes out, made a several prints, wrong paper (got paper water color paper). I will try this toning method. This was great.
Thank you for this detailed video.
Another great informative video, one i will be trying soon
Just about to try this, i have created the negative, and thanks for the tips, which side do you play against the cyanotype paper, the printed of non-printed side? Thanks
Super ! 👍👍👍
Awesome
Thank you for this tutorial
Hello Stephen, Canson Montval paper is 100% cellulose ! Have you tested with 300g 100% cotton paper ? If so, what is your preference and why ?
👍 well done !
Thank you!
Thanks for the very informative video! I've read that you need to briefly bleach the print in alkalai before toning, so that's what I've been doing. But seeing your great results here makes me question my current workflow. I'll definitely be trying it your way tomorrow and see what I get! Thanks again for sharing!
Thanks for the great video. I'm curious, can you tell me why you don't bleach the finished cyanotype separately and just use the tea bags for toning?
love!!!!! gracias
hi fascinating best video on b/w cyanotypes I've seen what brand of tea did you use please?
Hi Stephen, thank you so much for your informative video. I learned more from you in just over ten minutes than I have from all of the other videos that I watched. It was so helpful. Can you please tell me what ink you use in your printer to print out your negative? Thank you so much again.
Hi Briana I used canon inks in my canon printer
@@roachbasher Thank you so much. I am going to buy some today and experiment with this fascinating process. Thank you again for your amazing tutorial and your beautiful photographs. I also love the music you add to your videos. It really transports to the places that you have captured.
Thanks a lot! That was really helpful
Thanks for this! What advantage is the orange filter over the negative? I’ve been creating negatives without.
Many thanks for sharing your processes, truly useful. I would just suggest you to change your sound background with some more active music, this makes me sleep each time, sorry :) Something more positive will really turn the experience into fun and play, which I believe in fact it is. All the best!
Perfectly!
I have a question, how long does it take to develop under a lamp? And how long do you rinse in tea !?
Thanks! Denis from Germ
Hi Denis my average time under my 30 watt lamp is about 9 minutes but you have to experiment with your lamp etc to get the best print , I use strong tea bags which give out more tannin so btw 40 mins to a hour .
Stephen, thank you for this. Loved the video. I have a Q though, can you tell me why did you apply the orange layer to the image before printing the negative?
I applied the orange layer to create more contrasts in the negative so I get a good result when I print the Cyanotype
does it have to be orange? can we use yellow ?@@roachbasher
Great videos, you've earned a subscription!
Can I ask the reason for the orange/sepia tint for the negative print?
Gives a boost to the contrast when exposing.
@@roachbasher Interesting, will have to read up on that some more I think.
Hello from Belgium Stephan. Thank you for your inspiring video. Do you have a link of the kind of UV light you are using? Kind regards, Alessandra
This the lamp I use UV LED Flood Light, 30W High... www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07KF78197?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Very very good video and result! Did you try also other toning processes?
Thank you ,yes I also use coffee and fruit teas
@@roachbasher the fruit teas seem quite interesting. Which is the difference with the standard tea?
Fausto Saporito it is s case of experimenting some fruit teas give you a slight reddish tone .
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, you are really generous! Your videos have motivated me for geting into cyanotype. I have two questions: my negatives tend to be overly contrasty - any idea how to fix this? Second: how do you get your edited cyanotypes flat again? I am layering them with books for some days but they tend to curl again. Thank you again and I am looking foreward to your next videos!
Hi play around with curves and watch what happens to neg till you get a neg you are happy with . I don’t hang my prints I leave them to dry on a flat surface over night and they stay flat .
@@roachbasher thank you for taking time to answer. I'll try that with the curves. I dry my prints on a flat surface too, but the curl anyway. Maybe it's a question of paper choice. Thank's again!
Do a gentle spray with water before putting your print between big books. When it's flat, spray glue on the back and tac it on a cardboard.
My camera program on my phone does not allow me to perform 'the magic'.....can you tell me what 'program' is used to accomplish what you did in the photo? PAM, the newbie 😊
Thanks for the great video! Is the wattage of the UV light important? Would a 10W light be adequate?
Thanks. Have you done a video on the light you referenced? Anyone else have UV light setup suggestions?
I love your techniques, very interesting. Could you add more details about the UV light you used. Couldn't make it out. Brand, model and where you purchased it. Thanks so much.
here is the lamp I use www.amazon.co.uk/Ultraviolet-Blacklight-85V-265V-Waterproof-Aquarium/dp/B07KF78197/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1LY54AU0FJK5Y&keywords=30%2Bwatt%2Buv%2Blight&qid=1642100730&sprefix=30%2Bwatt%2Buv%2Blight%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-2-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyT0haTkVRNU5HVjdPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDI3Nzc1UUw4N1E0Mk5MN1BVJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyOTM2NTYxMEVBUDExQzk1TEI4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
@@roachbasher Thank you!
whats the point of adding the yellow hue to the negative?
what kind of printer did you use? is the film positive the same as the one they use in Screen Printing? Any printer can print onto the film positive?
The tea tinting looks much more professional.
Thank you very much for this very detailed tutorial! You've answered all the questions I had after watching other videos.
Unfortunately, the transparent film you show in this video is no longer available. Do you have another brand/reference to recommend?
Hi, really interesting video. I was just wondering what software you use to edit the photograph?
Also, can you see any reason this technique couldn't be used on ceramics?
I use photoshop to do my editing yes Cyanotype works on ceramics
Can u make a video with cyanotype on ceramics
just a quick one, do I have to do the toning process right after the water bath? or can I do on cyanotype prints say 4-6 days ago?
Yes you can tone a Cyanotype that is older just need to wet it etc then tone .
What is the software ur using ? Is it possible to use phone edits n make it
I use photoshop , I use a canon camera maybe it will work off phone edits I have not tried it you will need a phone edit that allows you to convert to a negative .
What program are you using
I wonder if you can tone an old cyanotype with tea or if it should be freshly exposed?
You don't appear to bleach your print? Many other videos show putting the print into a solution of bleach and then rinsing that off before going on to the tea staining part?
Karen Marr Thank you for your comment I didn’t do that on this occasion i just went to toning the print with tea .
@@roachbasher So it obviously works well using the'blueprint'..hmmm Need to try your version. Thanks.
Is washing required by Vixer Hypo or only water is sufficient for that.. Thanks...
Great video. Do you have a link for the UV lamp?
Ich spülte den Druck in Tee. Das Ergebnis reicht aber nicht aus. Was mache ich falsch? Es ist immer noch blau. Und doch, wenn der Druck nicht kontrastreich genug ist und zum Licht neigt, ist er dann überbelichtet?
Hi! I've been trying to experiment with cyanotype for a few weeks now but every single time I go to put my pieces in the water after exposure, they completely wash out and no photos actually develop. I've experimented with exposure times, and even ordered more chemicals in case the first batch was tainted in some way, but no luck. Do you know what could be going wrong?
A couple of questions what paper are you using, how long and how are you exposing for ie outside or with uv box , are you letting your paper dry in a dark space ie cupboard or drawer.
What alterations would you suggest if only a black and white printer is available? It seems that simply turning into negative my picture dosnt work. Thank you!
You probably need to play around with the contrast to deepen the shadows and mid tones if your bw image doesn’t have much contrast . Try another image . You may have to play around with the image . Just turning a bw image into a negative doesn’t mean it will work .
@@roachbasher Thank you!
Is this a purchased program for the computer ? Photo shop. Thanks
Yes photoshop is software to process digital images on a computer
Yes photoshop is software to process digital images on a computer
I rinsed the print in tea. But the result is not enough. What am I doing wrong? It is still blue. And yet, if the print is not contrasting enough and tends to be light, is it overexposure?
With out seeing the print I can’t comment can you give me a link to a site etc so I can see it .
@@roachbasher facebook.com/photo?fbid=3660087657446123&set=pcb.3660088197446069
How long did you leave the print , how much tea did you use , I use tea bags which I leave to steep for a while so the tannin comes out of the tea. Put the tea in a tray put your print in face down leave it for half an hour check it if it needs longer keep checking every 15 mins till this could take up to a hour or so it depends on the paper etc your using .
Hi stephen thank you for your video! What can I use to wash the blue of the cyanotype? Thank you 🙏🏻
How much water do you put in the bottles to fill them?
As you are producing a negative, don't forget to flip the image horizontal.
I would like to combine various elements from acetates to make a composite image, but I keep getting cut lines.
Anyone know how to eliminate cut lines from transparencies?
What is the brand of the light
Hi Stephen, Thanks for the video. I'm getting a great print but the tea soaking barely darkens the blue. Any additional advice for toning the print? I'm using PG Tips decaf tea very dark lots of tea.
I followed your steps, and when I did the gradient tool, the image did not turn orange but grey. I repeated several times and never achieve an orange overlayer.
What density did you have your opacity set at ,set it 100 % and then use the slider to bring in the image.
Also did you check that the gradient tool was set to full block colour
@@roachbasher It worked, I did not use the gradient tool correctly before. Thanks very much
Its not black and white though is it !!!
Your paper is too small, best leave a wide (white) border around the print, which is more pleasing to the eye. Also narrow borders make framing difficult.
You have not produced a black & white print. It is blue & brownish. Use tannic acid for toning blue prints, not tea.