Great video, I could have saved a lot of time if I had watched your video first. My furnace fan would start up, the igniter would start clicking, a little smell of propane and that's all it would do over & over about three times and then shut off. I removed the furnace and opened it up and found the little brass gas orifice was plugged with what looked like a drop of mud not letting gas flow thru it so the furnace wouldn't start up and work. I removed it, cleaned it and reassembled the unit and it works just fine now. You AND YOUR WIFE put out an excellent video, thank you!!
Got a question.. my new SF-30VHFQ… runs very erratic at elevations about 5500… it runs then cycles off only to try and start up 30 seconds after shutting down ( doesn’t ignite the second time) then I have to turn off the thermostat and reset… then it’ll start again and maybe run a few cycles only to do it again… Can you help?
At around 13:12 you said that one should not be "too concerned about the gasket material" and that it is not a "deal breaker" if the gasket is put back on or not. I could not disagree more because that gasket is one of the items that seals up this particular part which helps prevent carbon monoxide fumes from potentially leaking into the living area of the RV.
You are entitled to disagree but where that gasket is the air is being drawn through by the combustion wheel there for under negative air pressure. The small gaps left by piecing in the gasket will not create a safety issue. Many years of doing this especially on older furnaces where parts are not available and never had a call of a detector going off after a service. Thanks for your insight though.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 I enjoyed the video and learned (I think) what I need to do on my 1991 Suburban furnace, which looks exactly the same, to get it running. Where the gasket was broken, could that not be replaced/supplemented with something like a high temperature sealant? Kudos to your wife for the great photography.
This is one of the most helpful videos that I have viewed to get my SF-30F up and running again. Keep up the good work. The camera work was also very effective.
I have a surban sfv35q that runs 6mins 30 secs then shuts off replaced ignitor control board jumped thermostat blue wires together get good voltage any idea what else it can be
Don't understand, u mounted motor without securing nuts on motor posts?? That's what I'm trying to figure out. With housing off u can tighten one screw but to put housing back together can't tighten other?
Thank you for the video. Took my valve apart following your suggested method on here with a crows foot. Thing is, I don't recall if the threads had teflon or not. Would this area be considered flared, compressed fittings, where there's no need for teflon tape (yellow, of course, if any? I appreciate your answer in advance.
I have an SF35Q and rebuilt it basically following your video. It would come on and run 20minutes and shut off and not relight. intotheit, I cant remember if that wire was ever plugged in. Got any ideas?
My comment was actually a question that did not print out right. I have a red wire dangling off the computer board with no where to plug it in. it comes from the white plug with multiple wires on it. One red wire goes to the sail switch.
With all the parts you replaced , would a new unit not have been cost wise a better move? I have an SF 35 , that will not fire . I am looking at replacing the board & ignighter ,
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 , thank you , just seemed like youreplaced everything (almost) Great video . Mine would not start the other night , now it is working , but seems to be , for lack of a better term , revving up . Fan if off and on low
Great video. Question, my 2008 Atwood furnace on occasion will start for a 20 seconds stop. Or Stop mid cycle. Or just tried to start then stopped. I can also go to turn it on, and here the click inside and nothing happens. It's getting good voltage, ignites and works most of time. Buy I can see this will probably get worse. Fan works fine. Thermostat works. Thanks.
Ok well from what I can get from your description it sounds like a control board issue. The click you hear is the relay on the board actuating but the points are intermittent. So I would put a new board in it. I’ll link one in the description for you. I like using Dinosaur boards, they are a little more robust and have a great warranty.
Very helpful video...thank you for posting. Listing the tools you used was an added bonus. I find that RV replacement parts are outrageously overpriced...do you have an online outlet that you recommend that sells these parts for a more reasonable price?
You have the patience’s of job.
Thanks.
Great video, I could have saved a lot of time if I had watched your video first. My furnace fan would start up, the igniter would start clicking, a little smell of propane and that's all it would do over & over about three times and then shut off. I removed the furnace and opened it up and found the little brass gas orifice was plugged with what looked like a drop of mud not letting gas flow thru it so the furnace wouldn't start up and work. I removed it, cleaned it and reassembled the unit and it works just fine now. You AND YOUR WIFE put out an excellent video, thank you!!
Got a question.. my new SF-30VHFQ… runs very erratic at elevations about 5500… it runs then cycles off only to try and start up 30 seconds after shutting down ( doesn’t ignite the second time) then I have to turn off the thermostat and reset… then it’ll start again and maybe run a few cycles only to do it again…
Can you help?
Check gas pressure
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 thanks
Two excellent videos. I've viewed them both several times to help me repair my Suburban SF-30 furnaces. Thank you!
Your welcome
At around 13:12 you said that one should not be "too concerned about the gasket material" and that it is not a "deal breaker" if the gasket is put back on or not. I could not disagree more because that gasket is one of the items that seals up this particular part which helps prevent carbon monoxide fumes from potentially leaking into the living area of the RV.
You are entitled to disagree but where that gasket is the air is being drawn through by the combustion wheel there for under negative air pressure. The small gaps left by piecing in the gasket will not create a safety issue. Many years of doing this especially on older furnaces where parts are not available and never had a call of a detector going off after a service. Thanks for your insight though.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 I enjoyed the video and learned (I think) what I need to do on my 1991 Suburban furnace, which looks exactly the same, to get it running. Where the gasket was broken, could that not be replaced/supplemented with something like a high temperature sealant? Kudos to your wife for the great photography.
George Bliss
Yes a high temp sealant would work as long as it has the proper temperature rating
This is one of the most helpful videos that I have viewed to get my SF-30F up and running again. Keep up the good work. The camera work was also very effective.
What is the cost for a job like this heater job?
That one there cost the customer 500 with all the parts.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 You are a good man to do a job like that with all parts for only $500!
I have a surban sfv35q that runs 6mins 30 secs then shuts off replaced ignitor control board jumped thermostat blue wires together get good voltage any idea what else it can be
High limit switch possibility
Don't understand, u mounted motor without securing nuts on motor posts?? That's what I'm trying to figure out. With housing off u can tighten one screw but to put housing back together can't tighten other?
The motor is pinched in there with the housings it’s not bolted in.
It’s in a cradle
Thank you for the video. Took my valve apart following your suggested method on here with a crows foot. Thing is, I don't recall if the threads had teflon or not. Would this area be considered flared, compressed fittings, where there's no need for teflon tape (yellow, of course, if any? I appreciate your answer in advance.
Don’t like to use tape on anything liquid ptfe is my choice.
To answer your question you will be ok without tape on that fitting.
Awesome job keep it up!!
thank you!
I have an SF35Q and rebuilt it basically following your video. It would come on and run 20minutes and shut off and not relight. intotheit, I cant remember if that wire was ever plugged in. Got any ideas?
okay that doesn't make any sense. My lengthy question did not print out.
My comment was actually a question that did not print out right. I have a red wire dangling off the computer board with no where to plug it in. it comes from the white plug with multiple wires on it. One red wire goes to the sail switch.
@@RBG-tr9ce so the wire off of the white plug is the one that goes to the sail switch the other red one will be 12v power coming in
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 Thanks a million
With all the parts you replaced , would a new unit not have been cost wise a better move? I have an SF 35 , that will not fire . I am looking at replacing the board & ignighter ,
The cost of the repair was no where near the cost of a new furnace.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 , thank you , just seemed like youreplaced everything (almost) Great video . Mine would not start the other night , now it is working , but seems to be , for lack of a better term , revving up . Fan if off and on low
Great video.
Question, my 2008 Atwood furnace on occasion will start for a 20 seconds stop. Or Stop mid cycle. Or just tried to start then stopped. I can also go to turn it on, and here the click inside and nothing happens.
It's getting good voltage, ignites and works most of time. Buy I can see this will probably get worse.
Fan works fine.
Thermostat works.
Thanks.
Ok well from what I can get from your description it sounds like a control board issue. The click you hear is the relay on the board actuating but the points are intermittent. So I would put a new board in it. I’ll link one in the description for you. I like using Dinosaur boards, they are a little more robust and have a great warranty.
Very helpful video...thank you for posting. Listing the tools you used was an added bonus. I find that RV replacement parts are outrageously overpriced...do you have an online outlet that you recommend that sells these parts for a more reasonable price?