TJ D44 axle bearing and seal replacement and install
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มี.ค. 2018
- Today I'm replacing the rear axle seals on my 2005 LJ. To do this you also need to replace your bearings. This seems like overkill, but the seals are behind the bearings so...
There are many brands of seal and bearing kits. I'm currently running timken.
Timken: amzn.to/3oGRvem
Spicer: amzn.to/345YJz6 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Awesome video thanks man. Rear backing plate job happening tomorrow. Glad to see it happen before I dive into it 🍻
Glad it helped! And thanks for watching!
Great video. All this time I thought seals were cute furry animals that lived in the North Pole. I never knew my jeep was made out of em... That explains the cost.... and the smell.
Ya missed the 1 part I wanted to see. Pressing the bearing and lock collar onto the shaft
yea. i had to go to a friend to get that done. and didn’t film it. Sorry!
@@SWBCrawler did you grease the bearing seat and or the inside of the inner bearing race before pressing it on?
@@TheRealMikeWilly you should back the bearing with grease. Get it into the rollers on the bearing. not between the bearing and the shaft or anything though.
You can put the drums on backwards with the lugs on a couple spins and use it as a slide hammer
Thanks for the tip! I've got a side hammer now though. ;).
Hey, sorry such a bother.but is the seal your using to replace that one an A-10 for a Dana 44.i think my axles are from a 2002 or 2004.it looks identical as you had it out but the A-10 bearing is one piece and don't look the same after outer race comes off.So is it and race just comes off and gets stuck in axle tube.thank you a bunch.good video.i got mine out and old parts off, just real concerned about that bearing.mine looks just same as yours as you are cutting off bearing cage and spacer.any help would ease my mind.good job
What I ended up using were the Timken equivalent of the Mopar 83503064. The ones I installed in the video were from Quadratec, and lasted about 2 years and were toast. I replaced them a SECOND time with the timkens, and so far so good. That's probably less than 1000 miles ago at this point though. I don't know if that answers your question. I can say that the rubicon started in 2003, so your axles cant me that much older than mine. Mine are 05. I also had an 87 Cherokee D44 in the rear of my old YJ, and THAT had bearings that looked just like these. The Seal, bearing, and retainer ring all came as a set iirc, so I don't know anything about the seal's part number.
Great video... rather than disconnecting the driveshaft, have both wheels off the ground it’ll turn easily then.
MRO Consulting and Support I had the whole rear off the ground. No tires. Not sure why it was so hard to turn. Thanks for watching!
And this dude thinks he’s removing the old bearing, no! He’s just struggling to destroy the old bearing along with the race and the oil seal. Nothing wrong with that. But dude, get an angle grinder or something with a cut off wheel, and bob is your uncle. You do t need your buddy to press the new bearings either. There’s a way to it as well, without a press..
great video.i have one question.i have dana 44 in front and rear in a 98 tj.i need to replace bearing and seal but my axle shafts are from a 2004 rubicon.it has A-lockers.Can i just pull the axles like you did or do i have to take diff. completly out? Thank you so much.please help
The axle shafts should come out exactly as mine did. The locker is just a drop in replacement for the center differential. The shafts mate with the splines on the locker, the same as they do with an open, or limited slip diff. Depending on the configuration of your axles, you could have drum brakes on the rear, which would make it slightly different, but essentially the same. You'd have the drum and backing plate to deal with. If you're disc brake though, should be about the same as what I showed in the video. Thanks for watching!
@@SWBCrawler i have shoes for emergency brake as yours and disc like yours.i beat on it some with hammer but was just afraid id damage something if i really started yanking on it.ill try it though.hope your right.thank you
@@robertpc100 The shaft? There's a certain amount of.. suction, i guess you'd call it, holding the shaft into the carrier in the middle of the axle. Plus the gear oil in there tends to be sort of sticky. It will come out, the key is getting force applied in just the right way. There's a few ways to do it. One is to rent an axle puller. It's basically a slide hammer with a y-shaped fork at one end. You bolt that on to your wheel studs, and then use the force of the slide hammer to pull the shaft out. Usually takes just a few slides. Another is to take a heavy chain. Attach it to the end of flange somehow, like putting the chain link over a wheel stud an dputting a nut and washer on there to keep it from sliding off, Then stretch the chain out and sort of whip it. The weight of the chain will try to puyll the axle shaft straight at you, when it pops loose it may come flying out at you, so be careful. The axle puller/slide hammer is really a more direct approach. ;) The problem with a hammer is, you cant get a direct blow on the flange, its always more of a downward or angled force because the backing plate is in the way. I used the chain method to pull the shaft in this video, but I'm not sure if i included it in the video. Let me know if it helps!
@@SWBCrawler I have diff cover off and it looks like an arb type locker but has wiring loom and air lines that I'll have to re attach to the factory pumps.i hope they work.i was told they were e-lockers when I got them.now I'm hoping pumps work but need to find out how some guys use a air tank to activate their arb lockers.only needs 5 lbs pressure but being able to regulate that through a switch will or might be a challenge.i probably wouldn't have had it switched if it hadn't been so good a deal.i pray pumps work.have a link for new pumps but they are out of stock at Amazon.thank you very much.if u have any idea how I can get parts or fabricate something, please let me know.o gotta get something goin on.sincerely.Robert
@@robertpc100 Yep, the TJ rubicon lockers were air actuated. Similar to ARB, but yea, super low pressure. I havent looked into how to retrofit them into a non-rubi TJ/LJ though. Personally, i'm going to go JK Rubi axles eventually. Electric lockers in those, stronger, fixed some of the design flaws in the TJ rubi 44's. Not that the TJ 44's are no good, the JK's are just better enough that I'm heading that direction when I can.
Any chance you want to show us the front as well? My passenger front just started leaking. Nice video BTW.
das hasguns thanks! I have a video on removing the shafts on the front, but not the seals. Is it the seals you're interested in?
das hasguns you have inner seals on the front in TJ’s. A little different repair but not too bad.
I’m going to be replacing my inner axle, I thought the axles had a little clip inside the pumpkin you had to remove.
If you have the dana 44 you don't have a c-clip. The dana 35 does.
So does anything need to be done with the diff or carrier?
No. The shafts just slide into the carrier on the 44. Now... If you suspect your carrier bearings to be bad, that's a whole other story.
Turn your sound up, and put on your safety glasses.
G Gnu I generally follow the “do as I say, not as I do “ model. Someday I’ll regret it. Haven’t gotten there yet.