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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 มี.ค. 2022
- Hey guys! This week we will be building an engine for this 944 Spec car. This car was a national champion three consecutive years and came to us with the engine removed. The engine had spun a rod bearing so the owner supplied us with another engine to build. We started off having the block sleeved and then we used brand new pistons. Once it was all together it was ready to hit the track!
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Keywords: Porsche 924S 944 spec race car engine rebuild piston cylinder sleeves LA sleeve CP Carillo pistons forged rods spun rod bearing fuel lines main bearing oil pump water pump head tach - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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There’s nothing quite like a freshly rebuilt engine done the right way… except maybe a shout out from a very happy customer! 👍🏼
Those pistons are a thing of beauty!😃 Thanks for the tip about no nylon shim in the 5r housing my milkshake is gone
No problem! Thanks!
I know that car! Black Forest is a local shop here in San Diego. Great guys. Keep up the great videos.
Awesome! There's also a Black Forest Racing here in NC that also builds 944's but I didn't think it was from there because the logo was different. Thanks for the info because now I know where this car is actually from!
Excellent video
Thank you!
@@edredas 😁👍
Excellent work! Love seeing it come back together as a Porsche.
Thank you so much!
that was very enjoyable to watch, and it was fun to hear it roar back to life.
The 944 whisperer is at it again. Great vid sir.
Thanks!
Make more videos man we need more content. Even driving videos is sick man. Stop slacking on showing off these sick cars man
I'll see what I can do! Now that warmer weather is here maybe I can make more videos! Thanks!
I want to k swap one of these in a bad way. Build myself a mini corvette since this is the only other thing other than the vette I can think of with the trans in the back.
Wow my guy. Glad you're out there doing it cause I wouldn't have the patience. It's got a dryer vent hose! Hah. I like these cars because they're great sports cars and at the same time, practical as hell.
Thanks! They really are practical, I daily drive mine and its even more roomy than my wife's Lexus
Beautiful work! Thank you for sharing!
Thank you very much!
Beautiful work!! Thinking about sending my 944 ur way!!!!
Thanks! If you decide to do so, send me an email to edredas@gmail.com.
Another great video showing the depth of you expertise. You are the master of the 924/944 platform.
Thanks!
It sounds great
Nice job 😎👌
Sick car bro
Thanks!
nice job and interesting video. Too bad you didn't give any technical information to what mods were done? Did you use the original cam? and did you use the regular oil pan? What compression does it have? Do you se the original Motronic? thank you
There’s really no technical stuff to give since this was built for the ‘944 spec’ class. So everything has to be original and the only mods allowed are sleeves or pistons which have to be approved. Even then the compression must remain stock.
👍🏻
Great video thank you! How were the crank journal bearings and rod bearings measured to the crank to make sure they are the correct size for the crank?
We have every crank checked out at a machine shop to make sure they've never been turned. Then we use micrometer and the factory service manual to make sure the clearances are correct. Thanks!
@@edredas awesome I was just curious how you do that step. Great videos I love watching your work.
How much power can you push from the stock block and upgraded internals, not for race use btw
What kind of power does a motor like that put out? Loved watching your skills. 😊
150CHP
They're supposed to dyno test these engines but I never heard back the actual results. This was a pretty peppy engine but has to stay within the factory hp ratings. If I had to guess it was around 147 net hp which was stock for this engine and around 125-130-ish hp at the wheels. Thanks!
@@edredas Thanks Brent! I wish I wasn’t so far away from your shop! I have 2 944’s. A turbo and an NA. The NA was my late father’s car so I’ll never sell it but the turbo is a lot more fun to drive. If I could just get 160ish HP out of the NA, I’d sell the turbo. 😳😊
Just curious, why wait to put the head on after the engine is in? Also, is that a catch can in the power steering pump reservoir location?
It makes it just a bit shorter and a bit lighter which helps with installation. That extra height can make a big difference when trying to get it in the engine bay and that extra weight can make a big difference when trying to get the clutch to slide on to the shaft. Plus it’s very easy to install the head with the block in the car so it has no down sides. I hope that helps!
Also yes that is a oil catch can where they power steering fluid reservoir once was. They adapted this car to electric power steering with everything over on the drivers side. So with that free space they put a catch can. As you can see it’s an empty chocolate milk bottle and apparently the new owner bought it like that, thought it was funny and decided to keep it.
@@edredas Could explain why I had such a hard time with mine...that and it was my first one. Thanks.
@@edredas I've been trying to decide where to put mine. I swapped to 924 manual rack, so that space is also free, albeit my current can is too big. I couldn't tell it was chocolate milk. I've seen a nalgene bottle on a Mini Cooper but not that.
Cool rebuild, how many horsies does this motor make?
They are supposed to dyno test them but I never saw the results, but the engine was very stout. For comparison, my stock 1988 924S with 158 hp was probably the quickest 2.5 liter 8 valves I've driven on the street before this and this race car felt more like a 944S. I don't know if it was the weight of the car or if the engine really made that much of a difference, but it definitely felt much faster than my 924S...
@@edredas Thanks! You have some cool videos on your site.
Awesome video, I am almost done rebuilding mine. The new alternator is giving me problems though, it doesn’t charge the battery. I ran a direct line from the gauge to the alternator and it did charge, unfortunately it didn’t allow the car to turn off. Any ideas on where to look?
What year is the car?
@@edredas early 85
Is your (no)charge light working. If the connection through this is not complete, it will not work
Being that the 944 have interference engines, would it not be possible for the piston tops to be clearanced so the valves could never touch them? Or is it too much travel for that to be possible?
You could but it would severely lower the compression to the point where the engine would barely make 90 hp.
N02 or Meth injection to make up for it 😂😂
@@djmjr77😂I wouldn’t worry too much about the belt breaking. I have worked on hundreds and only seen two break. One was rotted because it was 40 years old and the other engine had other mechanical damage. So I’d say raise the compression and change the $14 belt every few years as cheap insurance 👍
Left hand side of the engine when looking at the front of the crank?
If you’re looking at the engine standing in front of it then the left hand side of the engine would be your right.
@@edredas so the opposite side of the exhaust manifold
@@944LS correct 👍
Saludos ,, cual será el torque de la cabeza de cilindros en 924s 1988 ?
La especificación de torque sería de 15 pies/libras, luego 90 grados, seguidos de otros 90 grados. ¡Espero que eso ayude!
Hi great videos man
Im trying to get to ask you why why why the 944 and turbos.. Kind of die stall when getting warm.... When rev up and let go the idle just drop down and stalls only when warm.. Any help will be greatly appreciated man thank you again.
Hard to say since there's a lot of things that can cause that, but I would start by checking the vacuum lines. I hope that helps!
@@edredas thank you for responding
.. I check all vacumm lines and seem to be ok... I hear a hiss sound from the throttle body..shaft ends. I'm sure there's some vacumme there..I think that's the cause of the low boost maybe?.. Thanks again brother .
@@macannnas there's a throttle body reseal kit out there only about $20-25
I know this is a bit off topic but what coolant would you recommend for a N/A 944? 1983 to be exact.
Peak makes a blue coolant specifically for European cars and used to list 944 on the bottle. This coolant lasts 150k miles which is much longer than the green stuff. It comes in premixed 50/50 or concentrate. Be sure to mix the concentrate with distilled water. I hope that helps!
@@edredas Yup that helps a ton, thank you very much for your help 👍🏼
What procedure do you use to prime the engine and gain oil pressure before first startup?
Most of the time the pump will prime itself so long as the OPRV is seated correctly and the nose of the car is level. I rarely come across an issue where the pump doesn't prime with the car level. When this does happen it usually suggests an issue with the OPRV. The times that I have needed to motivate the pump to prime using compressed air down the dipstick, the issue usually returns again and will persist until the OPRV is removed and reseated. With that being said, I'll go back to my previous mention of using compressed air down the dipstick. This will usually prime the pump quickly but you have to make sure you block off the Air/Oil separator or it won't push oil into the pump. Once that is blocked off you can use compressed air to blow into the dipstick while having someone turn the engine over. This should prime the pump, however if the issue persists, check and reseat the OPRV. I hope that helps!
@@edredasthanks for the reply! I've rebuilt lots of engines but kept reading horror stories online about building oil pressure lol. Getting ready to fire up my engine in the next couple weeks.
@@edredas I actually had another quick question regarding the same subject. While cranking and priming the engine, should I see an oil pressure reading on the oil pressure gauge?
@@ALEXANDARRR42 Sorry for the delay. Yes, as soon as it builds pressure you will see if reflected on the gauge.
So you upgraded to turbo rods?
The 1983 - 1984 N/A also used forged rods and I think they came out of one of those cars. Later turbos also used cast rods.
Who did the sleazing and how much did it cost?
A local machine shop I work with sleeved the engine. Its roughly about $200 per cylinder, so around $800 to do the whole engine.