Blood on the knuckles. Mechanics is a passion. Well done mate!.. Now i need to do the same thing tomorrow on a friends fiat 500. I'm a bit heavy handed, so there will be more bleeding from me than the hydraulic system. Thanks again buddy, appreciate the video!
Great video, my 500 Lounge on a 19 plate with only 22500 on the clock is in the garage at the moment having a new slave and master cyl fitted. Horrendous creaking and grabbing but hopefully the work will fix it. I am way too old to be doing my own work now but would have loved videos like this back in the day, so helpful.
@@fixitfallows All sorted now thanks, he changed squeaking creaking slave cylinder and showed me the master Cylinder where the aluminium pipe connector at the bottom was corroded and had a hairline crack. Not great for a 5 yrs old car with just over 22K on the clock. Hope I can forget it now for a while 😄.
@@haitch04 glad it is all sorted. The reality is these are cheaply made little cars (relative to many other modern cars)...... but then I don't think it ever really pretended to be otherwise. If I'm not mistaken I think it is literally a retro rebodied Panda so that Fiat could milk that platform for a bit longer..... it seems to have worked for them! At least they are reasonably cheap and easy to fix. My daughter's one, has in this last year, seen her safely down to Cornwall and back, plus she now resides up in Lancashire where the car is perfect for both the city and tight rural lanes.
For anyone doing this job on a Panda (2009 1108 in my case)- it can be tackled quite easy without removing the battery/tray- keeping your radio codes ! Take off 2 13mm bolts (easy enough access with std' ring spanner) move the slave forward so you can access the pipe retaining clip- slide out the pipe. Swap pipe seal off new pipe (if you have one with new slave) and re-fit . Bolt up the slave, snip off rod retaining ties (on new slave) and bleed as you would any other. Bleed screw (allen key) is also easily accessed in place. 10 mins- happy days ! :)
great video mate- when i did it it took ages to get the clip out and when trying to pull the pipe out of the slave, its stuck fast!! Looks like a few blasts of wd40 needed but if not, may have to install the new pipe then cut the connector and rejoin where it meets the master pipe!
Hey there many many thanks for the very helpful video. MY connector was rusted and very hard to remove, when refitting i found it easier to leave it bolted in place first, so maybe thats a good way to remove it if its problematic. It feels way better now however occasionally i still get my gear jamming, less so though. Im wondering if i need to bleed it more.
Great video, I have a new to me ford Ka and the fluid is original, looks rank so was looking how to bleed it as the clutch is a bit spongy. Would have been tempted to purge all that dark fluid out mind! Cheers.
Hi, I have this problem of a squeaky and stiff clutch, but as it starts to get worse the bite point will go and my car will get stuck stationary. Only seems to happen after driving for 20-30 mins and will be fine once the car has cooled down. Could this still be down to the slave cylinder?
Thank you for the video, very well guided through, on every step. Is it possible to put lithium grease perhaps on the pedal assembly to help minimise the creak?
I can't see how lubricating any pivot point could do any harm and would surely help to eliminate any remaining noises. That said, since making this video, which was well over a year ago now, my daughter has driven this car daily and has not had any creaking or squeaking issues from the clutch, so I haven't had the need to do anything further. Thank you for the kind comments 👍🏼😎
Excellent video content / detailed pictures and narrative. Thankyou for taking the time to share your experience. I'd diagnose my squeaky clutch to the slave / or clutch operating arm or mechanism. I'll grab myself a slave cylinder and get this replaced. Incidentally, did you remove the piston from the slave cylinder body (of the defective unit), to see if it was the piston, the bore or seals that was the cause of failure (noise) within the slave cylinder?
Cheers for the kind comments, much appreciated. As for dismantling the old unit, much out of character I didn't, I usually relish the opportunity to have a nose around inside of things..... I must have had other priorities imposed upon me by she who must be obeyed 🤣
Hi there, I have just bought a new slave cylinder for my 500 and planning to do the change myself. I have two questions I wondered if you could help me with? 1. After fitting the new slave, what do I need to do with the bleed kit? Could you talk me through that process and what I need to be able to do that as unsure 2. What grease do I need to use? Many thanks for the video, hope you can help me out!
Hello, if you go to about 11:50 into the video, from this point on it refers to the bleeding process. Ultimately, bleeding is simply pushing the fluid through the system so as to expel any trapped air..... hence you need to undo the bleed valve/ nipple to allow the air to exit. Obviously along with the air, the hydraulic fluid is also being expelled, so you have to ensure you keep topping up the reservoir to replenish the lost fluid. An empty reservoir will mean more air being sucked into the system!! To push the fluid through the system you simply pump the clutch pedal with your foot (not frenziedly, just gently and rythmically). It helps if you have someone to observe and note the amount of air in the expelled fluid, or rig a camera to film and refer to.
Hi mate just wanted to say a massive thanks for the video and advise. Managed to get the same clutch cylinder for £20, along with a few other bits I had to buy and a socket set it probably cost me £50 all in. Just fitted it now and no more squeek! Thanks so much!
That's great news!! I'm very happy to have been of help. Now you have the socket set it's a slippery slope into tool addiction!!!!! One can never have enough tools. Good luck with future wrenching 😃
Excellent video. I think I have exactly the same problem on my daughter's fiat 500 (recently purchased). I took it to a garage and they said they would need to replace both the slave and master cylinder which would cost £330. So yesterday I looked under the bonnet to try and work out exactly where the noise was coming from and although the noise sounded near the arm and the rod going into the slave cylinder, the squeak seemed to be coming from the coiled pipe that is attached to the slave (the one you detached) and it vibrated at the same time. So I am wondering if I also need to replace the coiled pipe but you mentioned problems getting that off the master, and I wonder if that's why the garage wanted to replace both the slave and master. After watching your video, I am considering whether to have a go myself, despite being a girlie, as you made it look straight forward. Another question I have is, how do you know how much to bleed from the slave? Also, the clutch pedal has a high bite point, will that improve after doing this, or is that just what to expect from a fiat 500? Did the stickiness of the clutch improve after the slave replacement? Sorry, so many questions.
Hello. Based on my understanding of things it is unlikely that the coiled section of pipe, or any other section of pipe will be the reason for the noise or vibration. It will be a moving part in the system that creates the noise (due to undue friction, bought about by degradation) ...... that noise then reverberates through the pipes ( think of tin can string phones we would make as kids - noise in at one end, sound travels as vibration waves through the string ). To be fair to garages, time is money to you and them, so they probably err on the side of caution and suggest both slave and master replacement incase it turns out to be one or the other. Plus there is always the arguement that if one is knackered, the other may not be too far behind it. It really is not a tricky job. Watch the video a few times, even write a few bullet point notes of the stages you need to take. Go for it. As for bleeding. You do it for as long as bubbles continue to show in the expelled fluid. Once no more bubbles, then no more bleeding. As for the high bite point, that is the sign of an ok clutch. It's when you have to the pedal to the floor is when you have to worry. Good luck.
Great job with this. My wife's new (2015) 500 Lounge has just dumped all of the hydraulic fluid out, and the clutch pedal goes to the floor with no release on the clutch. I've had a quick look this morning, before watching this video. How easy is it to get to that big steel push fit union on the end of the supplied slave cylinder? Ive heard, as you said, that the fitting and pipework corroded, so I'm thinking, just replace all of the pipework from slave to master cylinder? How much of a pain job would that be? Any help would be much appreciated. 👍🏻
@@roblowrie1969 hello, that's uncharted territory for me to be honest..... I've not had the need to go beyond what you see in the video. Are you able to see where the fluid leaked from ?
I had a look at the car this morning, taking the near side wheel off, and the union is fixed to the side of the engine bay, and is very wet, so it must be that. I've ordered stainless metal fitting, recommended on the Fiat 500 Facebook group at £18, and as soon as that's arrived, I'll fit it. Should just be that, some DOT4, and a junior hack saw. 👍🏻
Thanks for all the help with the video, etc. I did the job this morning, and apart from being a bit confused, as I thought the union between the slave and master cylinder pipes was on the inside of the wheel arch, not the bulkhead, the job went very smoothly. I used a kit from X8R, with included a marine grade stainless union, bleed pipe, waterproof tape, and inserts to stop the pipes crushing, for £18, it took just a couple of hours. Cut the old pipe out with a junior hacksaw, put the fitting caps down the pipes, insert the fittings into each piece of pipe, then whack them up tight. All sorted. 👍🏻
Hi, thanks for the video! my neices car has the same noise coming from the slave cylinder, also after driving for a while the clutch becomes sticky around an inch from the floor, would the slave cylinder also cause that to happen?
It's hard to say, but you have the similar noise and feel, so this being a pretty cheap and simple procedure it's a good first "process of elimination" attempt to resolve your issue. Good luck
Hi, I followed your video and bought the part from GSF replaced it but when I bleed it, the oil spills around the nut instead of going into the pipe. What do you reckon I should do?
So this is when bleeding? I assume you have pulled the rubber cover off of the bleed nipple, yes? Also, check that the pipe you are using is clear and unobstructed with anything along its length.Also, you shouldn't have to undi the bleed nipple all that much, if you do you risk creating an easier path for the fluid to travel rather than through the pipe What is the pipe going into?
@@fixitfallows Thank you for your quick reply. I took out the rubber cover and connected a very long pipe, which doesn't go into anything it's just several meters long. It's also very snug so it's not leaking from the pipe and the nipple. Rather it's around the nut. Some fluid goes into the pipe and a lot of oil leaks just around the nut.
Hmmm, it sounds like the bore of your pipe and its length may be the problem. I'm no expert on fluid dynamics, but I'm sure fluids flow more readily along the path of least resistance.... I'm just guessing here. It's very unusual.
@@fixitfallows I did have a shorter pipe previously but it was the same. Im left guessing if my brand new slave cylinder is faulty. It looks exactly like yours, its from GSF but it just leaks oil all over when nut is open. Its even the same with the old slave cylinder so I thought it was by design but its different in your video.
I don't think it's faulty as you say it was doing the same on the old slave too. The common denominator is the type of pipe you are using, the bore must be too small I'm thinking..
I've just been watching your video but hoping for some help for my daughters KA2 2011 I returned home one day as suddenly there was no clutch resistance whatsoever so no going into gear. No previous signs or warnings of clutch issue I checked the clutch master reservoir on the master and it was very cloudy (but full to the line), tried a bleed on the slave nut and no difference. I have purchased correct spare fluid I then spent about 10 mins pumping the pedal and there was very brief stiffness and it went into gear once...since then nothing and I've noticed the reservoir emptied so have topped it up...There was no leak I could see before bleeding Is it possible it is the clutch master cylinder (I've ordered one) and if so is it simply a case of removing the screws from the firewall and the piston arm will disconnect from the pedal....I did notice a switch being activated from the clutch pedal too but no idea what that ios I'm no mechanic and contacting you as your video was great and mechanic around here are very poor. Kind regards and any help appreciated
Hello Mark sorry to hear you're having problems with the car. I'll be honest with you, I have not had cause to do a master cylinder on the 500. Also, at this very moment our 500 is not here so I can't go and have a look in the footwell. However, from memory and having quickly got up some online images of the master cylinder, it looks like it is a ball / cup connection between the rod of the cylinder and the pedal. So in theory it should be a simple disconnect of that joint and as you say removal of the bulk head bolts. The master should then come out in the engine bay. It sounds very much like the hydraulics side is the problem, rather than the clutch itself. Have you placed a camera looking at the clutch arm (Slave cylinder) to observe how much/little it is moving when you press the pedal? This should pretty much confirm whether it is one or other of the cylinders at fault. Good luck.
@@fixitfallows thanks for your reply, much appreciated. When I press the pedal there's nothing, I see nothing and it's like the master cylinder isn't even in the loop. I cannot see much going on at the slave end. I'm tempted to replace the master from the master pipe side to start with which will save a lot of removal of the battery tray, etc and see if that makes a difference.
Hmmm, the master is the more expensive one to do. Perhaps disconnect a pipe either from the slave side of the reservoir or as the pipe meets the slave. In this way you may be able to observe whether the master is actually pushing any fluid. If it is, then it might point towards the slave. Also there is a joint positioned on the inside (engine bay side) of the front passenger side wheel arch. Perhaps this has failed and is where the pressure and fluid is being lost......?
Too late...I managed to replace the master (not using the hose between the master and slave and thought I'd sorted it....unfortunately not. I then noticed after pumping the pedal the fluid was going down and noticed a wet patch on the floor....(but you're spot on) so after removing the battery tray, I think I can see where it is coming from, which looks like a join section between the master hose to the slave but that's where I stopped because I couldn't get to it and no sure what other parts I need. Since I haven't used that hose from the master to join, I'm hoping its that side.
@@marcopolo6668 well, on the positive side you've made progress, having now identified the likely problem. By the way, did the master detach from the clutch pedal fairly easily?
First off, this is a great video - so thank you for taking the time to make it. My car (2014, 1.2 model) had a ton of other cables and connectors attached to the battery tray. I also could not release the pipe from the old slave cylinder - it seemed fused together. Any tips? Yours seemed to disconnect very easily,
same here mate - took me ages to get the clip out the old one as well - -had to use a stanley blade to cut a bit of the plastic. Sprayed with WD40 and it still wouldnt budge. Havent attempted it again yet - had considered leaving the new pipe on the new slave then cutting the old join out between the master and slave and fitting a compression fitting
Bleeding the hydraulic system may have an affect (improve) the biting point. And if you've removed the battery tray to bleed it, and you have the squeaky clutch problem, well just replace the slave cylinder at the same time. Perhaps the old cap at the end of the piston has crushed over time, which could also slightly affect the biting point (I'm referring to the end cap that is held in place by the 2 strips that you cut after replacing the slave cylinder). And finally, assuming the operating arm hasn't been bent, then general wear of the clutch will affect the biting point, so if its high miles combined with lots of short journeys over its life = lots of clutch action, the clutch could well be wearing. But just keep driving it until it starts slipping (&start saving your money for its replacement)
I like your video. Very helpful. I have the same problem and have a sqeaky sound coming from the master cylinder which you can hear from inside car by the pedal. Are you saying that if you change the slave cylinder it reduces the pressure/noise on the master cylinder hence reduce the sqeakying. Cheers Bob
Hello Bob. For me, the noise and sensation was actually originating from the slave and reverberating back through the system to the master and pedal. Changing the slave made a significant difference in my situation. The pedal system may have some inherent squeaks of its own, but these cam be mitigated by lubricating the pivot points. Good luck Craig
@@fixitfallowsThanks for getting back, appreciate it. Tried everywhere no stock, on ebay very high price. I will wait until i find one in stock. Thanks once again for the video and the link. Have a good weekend!
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Blood on the knuckles. Mechanics is a passion. Well done mate!.. Now i need to do the same thing tomorrow on a friends fiat 500. I'm a bit heavy handed, so there will be more bleeding from me than the hydraulic system. Thanks again buddy, appreciate the video!
Showing the full job from start to finish. Brilliant. Thanks for this
Great video, my 500 Lounge on a 19 plate with only 22500 on the clock is in the garage at the moment having a new slave and master cyl fitted. Horrendous creaking and grabbing but hopefully the work will fix it. I am way too old to be doing my own work now but would have loved videos like this back in the day, so helpful.
@@haitch04 I hope they get it sorted for you 🤞🏼
@@fixitfallows All sorted now thanks, he changed squeaking creaking slave cylinder and showed me the master Cylinder where the aluminium pipe connector at the bottom was corroded and had a hairline crack. Not great for a 5 yrs old car with just over 22K on the clock. Hope I can forget it now for a while 😄.
@@haitch04 glad it is all sorted.
The reality is these are cheaply made little cars (relative to many other modern cars)...... but then I don't think it ever really pretended to be otherwise.
If I'm not mistaken I think it is literally a retro rebodied Panda so that Fiat could milk that platform for a bit longer..... it seems to have worked for them!
At least they are reasonably cheap and easy to fix.
My daughter's one, has in this last year, seen her safely down to Cornwall and back, plus she now resides up in Lancashire where the car is perfect for both the city and tight rural lanes.
For anyone doing this job on a Panda (2009 1108 in my case)- it can be tackled quite easy without removing the battery/tray- keeping your radio codes !
Take off 2 13mm bolts (easy enough access with std' ring spanner) move the slave forward so you can access the pipe retaining clip- slide out the pipe. Swap pipe seal off new pipe (if you have one with new slave) and re-fit .
Bolt up the slave, snip off rod retaining ties (on new slave) and bleed as you would any other.
Bleed screw (allen key) is also easily accessed in place. 10 mins- happy days ! :)
I just fit new clutch, thrust bearing and slave on fiat 500 and had the ecu and battery removed for 7 days, didn't need any radio code
I didn't lose my codes either..... but maybe it depends on which radio head is installed.
great video mate- when i did it it took ages to get the clip out and when trying to pull the pipe out of the slave, its stuck fast!! Looks like a few blasts of wd40 needed but if not, may have to install the new pipe then cut the connector and rejoin where it meets the master pipe!
Good luck 😎🤞🏻👍🏼
Hey there many many thanks for the very helpful video. MY connector was rusted and very hard to remove, when refitting i found it easier to leave it bolted in place first, so maybe thats a good way to remove it if its problematic. It feels way better now however occasionally i still get my gear jamming, less so though. Im wondering if i need to bleed it more.
Great video, I have a new to me ford Ka and the fluid is original, looks rank so was looking how to bleed it as the clutch is a bit spongy.
Would have been tempted to purge all that dark fluid out mind!
Cheers.
Great video and tips, had the exact same issue on a Ka mk2. Made changing it much easier👍
I'm pleased you found it useful.
Please be sure to Like the video and if at all possible Subscribe too 👌🏼👍🏼
@@fixitfallows this also helped me with Ford Ka Mk2. Thanks! Might be worth including Ford Ka Mk2 in the title
Hi, I have this problem of a squeaky and stiff clutch, but as it starts to get worse the bite point will go and my car will get stuck stationary. Only seems to happen after driving for 20-30 mins and will be fine once the car has cooled down. Could this still be down to the slave cylinder?
Thank you for the video, very well guided through, on every step. Is it possible to put lithium grease perhaps on the pedal assembly to help minimise the creak?
I can't see how lubricating any pivot point could do any harm and would surely help to eliminate any remaining noises. That said, since making this video, which was well over a year ago now, my daughter has driven this car daily and has not had any creaking or squeaking issues from the clutch, so I haven't had the need to do anything further.
Thank you for the kind comments 👍🏼😎
Thanks a lot, that saved me from going to a mechanic
Excellent video content / detailed pictures and narrative. Thankyou for taking the time to share your experience. I'd diagnose my squeaky clutch to the slave / or clutch operating arm or mechanism. I'll grab myself a slave cylinder and get this replaced. Incidentally, did you remove the piston from the slave cylinder body (of the defective unit), to see if it was the piston, the bore or seals that was the cause of failure (noise) within the slave cylinder?
Cheers for the kind comments, much appreciated. As for dismantling the old unit, much out of character I didn't, I usually relish the opportunity to have a nose around inside of things..... I must have had other priorities imposed upon me by she who must be obeyed 🤣
Sir, you only changed to slave cylinder right? not the master cylinder as well?
Hi there, I have just bought a new slave cylinder for my 500 and planning to do the change myself. I have two questions I wondered if you could help me with?
1. After fitting the new slave, what do I need to do with the bleed kit? Could you talk me through that process and what I need to be able to do that as unsure
2. What grease do I need to use?
Many thanks for the video, hope you can help me out!
Hello, if you go to about 11:50 into the video, from this point on it refers to the bleeding process. Ultimately, bleeding is simply pushing the fluid through the system so as to expel any trapped air..... hence you need to undo the bleed valve/ nipple to allow the air to exit. Obviously along with the air, the hydraulic fluid is also being expelled, so you have to ensure you keep topping up the reservoir to replenish the lost fluid. An empty reservoir will mean more air being sucked into the system!! To push the fluid through the system you simply pump the clutch pedal with your foot (not frenziedly, just gently and rythmically). It helps if you have someone to observe and note the amount of air in the expelled fluid, or rig a camera to film and refer to.
Hi mate just wanted to say a massive thanks for the video and advise. Managed to get the same clutch cylinder for £20, along with a few other bits I had to buy and a socket set it probably cost me £50 all in. Just fitted it now and no more squeek! Thanks so much!
That's great news!! I'm very happy to have been of help. Now you have the socket set it's a slippery slope into tool addiction!!!!! One can never have enough tools.
Good luck with future wrenching 😃
Excellent video. I think I have exactly the same problem on my daughter's fiat 500 (recently purchased). I took it to a garage and they said they would need to replace both the slave and master cylinder which would cost £330. So yesterday I looked under the bonnet to try and work out exactly where the noise was coming from and although the noise sounded near the arm and the rod going into the slave cylinder, the squeak seemed to be coming from the coiled pipe that is attached to the slave (the one you detached) and it vibrated at the same time. So I am wondering if I also need to replace the coiled pipe but you mentioned problems getting that off the master, and I wonder if that's why the garage wanted to replace both the slave and master. After watching your video, I am considering whether to have a go myself, despite being a girlie, as you made it look straight forward. Another question I have is, how do you know how much to bleed from the slave? Also, the clutch pedal has a high bite point, will that improve after doing this, or is that just what to expect from a fiat 500? Did the stickiness of the clutch improve after the slave replacement? Sorry, so many questions.
Hello. Based on my understanding of things it is unlikely that the coiled section of pipe, or any other section of pipe will be the reason for the noise or vibration. It will be a moving part in the system that creates the noise (due to undue friction, bought about by degradation) ...... that noise then reverberates through the pipes ( think of tin can string phones we would make as kids - noise in at one end, sound travels as vibration waves through the string ).
To be fair to garages, time is money to you and them, so they probably err on the side of caution and suggest both slave and master replacement incase it turns out to be one or the other. Plus there is always the arguement that if one is knackered, the other may not be too far behind it.
It really is not a tricky job. Watch the video a few times, even write a few bullet point notes of the stages you need to take. Go for it.
As for bleeding. You do it for as long as bubbles continue to show in the expelled fluid. Once no more bubbles, then no more bleeding.
As for the high bite point, that is the sign of an ok clutch. It's when you have to the pedal to the floor is when you have to worry.
Good luck.
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing this
Great job with this. My wife's new (2015) 500 Lounge has just dumped all of the hydraulic fluid out, and the clutch pedal goes to the floor with no release on the clutch.
I've had a quick look this morning, before watching this video. How easy is it to get to that big steel push fit union on the end of the supplied slave cylinder? Ive heard, as you said, that the fitting and pipework corroded, so I'm thinking, just replace all of the pipework from slave to master cylinder? How much of a pain job would that be? Any help would be much appreciated. 👍🏻
@@roblowrie1969 hello, that's uncharted territory for me to be honest..... I've not had the need to go beyond what you see in the video.
Are you able to see where the fluid leaked from ?
@@fixitfallows that's my next job. I'll let you know. 😉👍🏻
I had a look at the car this morning, taking the near side wheel off, and the union is fixed to the side of the engine bay, and is very wet, so it must be that. I've ordered stainless metal fitting, recommended on the Fiat 500 Facebook group at £18, and as soon as that's arrived, I'll fit it. Should just be that, some DOT4, and a junior hack saw. 👍🏻
Thanks for all the help with the video, etc. I did the job this morning, and apart from being a bit confused, as I thought the union between the slave and master cylinder pipes was on the inside of the wheel arch, not the bulkhead, the job went very smoothly.
I used a kit from X8R, with included a marine grade stainless union, bleed pipe, waterproof tape, and inserts to stop the pipes crushing, for £18, it took just a couple of hours.
Cut the old pipe out with a junior hacksaw, put the fitting caps down the pipes, insert the fittings into each piece of pipe, then whack them up tight.
All sorted. 👍🏻
Brilliantly instructive video👍
Hi, thanks for the video! my neices car has the same noise coming from the slave cylinder, also after driving for a while the clutch becomes sticky around an inch from the floor, would the slave cylinder also cause that to happen?
It's hard to say, but you have the similar noise and feel, so this being a pretty cheap and simple procedure it's a good first "process of elimination" attempt to resolve your issue.
Good luck
Thanks for the video, this helped me a lot.
I have fiat Doblo 2008. Is the master cylinder easy to replace? Any links please. They made is out of plastic! Ordered a new metal one.
Sorry, I don't have any personal experience of the Doblo.... hopefully someone else here has 🤞🏼
Fantastic video and instructions. Thank you
So well explained, thank you!
Hi, I followed your video and bought the part from GSF replaced it but when I bleed it, the oil spills around the nut instead of going into the pipe. What do you reckon I should do?
So this is when bleeding? I assume you have pulled the rubber cover off of the bleed nipple, yes? Also, check that the pipe you are using is clear and unobstructed with anything along its length.Also, you shouldn't have to undi the bleed nipple all that much, if you do you risk creating an easier path for the fluid to travel rather than through the pipe What is the pipe going into?
@@fixitfallows Thank you for your quick reply. I took out the rubber cover and connected a very long pipe, which doesn't go into anything it's just several meters long. It's also very snug so it's not leaking from the pipe and the nipple. Rather it's around the nut. Some fluid goes into the pipe and a lot of oil leaks just around the nut.
Hmmm, it sounds like the bore of your pipe and its length may be the problem. I'm no expert on fluid dynamics, but I'm sure fluids flow more readily along the path of least resistance.... I'm just guessing here. It's very unusual.
@@fixitfallows I did have a shorter pipe previously but it was the same. Im left guessing if my brand new slave cylinder is faulty. It looks exactly like yours, its from GSF but it just leaks oil all over when nut is open. Its even the same with the old slave cylinder so I thought it was by design but its different in your video.
I don't think it's faulty as you say it was doing the same on the old slave too. The common denominator is the type of pipe you are using, the bore must be too small I'm thinking..
I've just been watching your video but hoping for some help for my daughters KA2 2011
I returned home one day as suddenly there was no clutch resistance whatsoever so no going into gear. No previous signs or warnings of clutch issue
I checked the clutch master reservoir on the master and it was very cloudy (but full to the line), tried a bleed on the slave nut and no difference. I have purchased correct spare fluid
I then spent about 10 mins pumping the pedal and there was very brief stiffness and it went into gear once...since then nothing and I've noticed the reservoir emptied so have topped it up...There was no leak I could see before bleeding
Is it possible it is the clutch master cylinder (I've ordered one) and if so is it simply a case of removing the screws from the firewall and the piston arm will disconnect from the pedal....I did notice a switch being activated from the clutch pedal too but no idea what that ios
I'm no mechanic and contacting you as your video was great and mechanic around here are very poor.
Kind regards and any help appreciated
Hello Mark sorry to hear you're having problems with the car. I'll be honest with you, I have not had cause to do a master cylinder on the 500. Also, at this very moment our 500 is not here so I can't go and have a look in the footwell.
However, from memory and having quickly got up some online images of the master cylinder, it looks like it is a ball / cup connection between the rod of the cylinder and the pedal. So in theory it should be a simple disconnect of that joint and as you say removal of the bulk head bolts. The master should then come out in the engine bay.
It sounds very much like the hydraulics side is the problem, rather than the clutch itself. Have you placed a camera looking at the clutch arm (Slave cylinder) to observe how much/little it is moving when you press the pedal? This should pretty much confirm whether it is one or other of the cylinders at fault.
Good luck.
@@fixitfallows thanks for your reply, much appreciated. When I press the pedal there's nothing, I see nothing and it's like the master cylinder isn't even in the loop. I cannot see much going on at the slave end. I'm tempted to replace the master from the master pipe side to start with which will save a lot of removal of the battery tray, etc and see if that makes a difference.
Hmmm, the master is the more expensive one to do. Perhaps disconnect a pipe either from the slave side of the reservoir or as the pipe meets the slave. In this way you may be able to observe whether the master is actually pushing any fluid. If it is, then it might point towards the slave. Also there is a joint positioned on the inside (engine bay side) of the front passenger side wheel arch. Perhaps this has failed and is where the pressure and fluid is being lost......?
Too late...I managed to replace the master (not using the hose between the master and slave and thought I'd sorted it....unfortunately not. I then noticed after pumping the pedal the fluid was going down and noticed a wet patch on the floor....(but you're spot on) so after removing the battery tray, I think I can see where it is coming from, which looks like a join section between the master hose to the slave but that's where I stopped because I couldn't get to it and no sure what other parts I need. Since I haven't used that hose from the master to join, I'm hoping its that side.
@@marcopolo6668 well, on the positive side you've made progress, having now identified the likely problem.
By the way, did the master detach from the clutch pedal fairly easily?
one thing missingfrom my new slave cylinder was the hard nylon steel rod cover .
Other than taking it back for an exchange ..... can you salvage the one off of the old slave ?
First off, this is a great video - so thank you for taking the time to make it. My car (2014, 1.2 model) had a ton of other cables and connectors attached to the battery tray. I also could not release the pipe from the old slave cylinder - it seemed fused together. Any tips? Yours seemed to disconnect very easily,
same here mate - took me ages to get the clip out the old one as well - -had to use a stanley blade to cut a bit of the plastic. Sprayed with WD40 and it still wouldnt budge.
Havent attempted it again yet - had considered leaving the new pipe on the new slave then cutting the old join out between the master and slave and fitting a compression fitting
Would this improve the biting point too ??
My Fiat 500 is squeaking too
Bleeding the hydraulic system may have an affect (improve) the biting point. And if you've removed the battery tray to bleed it, and you have the squeaky clutch problem, well just replace the slave cylinder at the same time. Perhaps the old cap at the end of the piston has crushed over time, which could also slightly affect the biting point (I'm referring to the end cap that is held in place by the 2 strips that you cut after replacing the slave cylinder). And finally, assuming the operating arm hasn't been bent, then general wear of the clutch will affect the biting point, so if its high miles combined with lots of short journeys over its life = lots of clutch action, the clutch could well be wearing. But just keep driving it until it starts slipping (&start saving your money for its replacement)
I like your video. Very helpful. I have the same problem and have a sqeaky sound coming from the master cylinder which you can hear from inside car by the pedal. Are you saying that if you change the slave cylinder it reduces the pressure/noise on the master cylinder hence reduce the sqeakying. Cheers Bob
Hello Bob. For me, the noise and sensation was actually originating from the slave and reverberating back through the system to the master and pedal.
Changing the slave made a significant difference in my situation.
The pedal system may have some inherent squeaks of its own, but these cam be mitigated by lubricating the pivot points.
Good luck
Craig
Hi great video very clearly explained. Just wondering from where did you purchase the Slave cylinder? please. Many Thanks
Thanks. I got mine from GSF www.gsfcarparts.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwuNemBhCBARIsADp74QRttaP_fNyR1DmOdyVapi0rCtoO1gnW8iWrPgJ9i3aZq0tzU6nc538aAt1jEALw_wcB
@@fixitfallowsThanks for getting back, appreciate it. Tried everywhere no stock, on ebay very high price. I will wait until i find one in stock. Thanks once again for the video and the link. Have a good weekend!
Use code "SUM65" for 65% off of the £66 price :
www.gsfcarparts.com/luk512004510
nicely done thank you.
I have the same issue on my fiat panda. Why you didnt change the thrust bearing?
My investigations suggested it was the Slave cylinder, which once changed, resolved the problem. So I have had no need to change the Thrust Bearing.
Nice little car!
All ready for when she gets her licence through www.styles-steering.co.uk/
Top man, thanks
Seems like surgery.) Thanks for video i looked for this job.
Cracking Video. Thanks. 😇
thanks for video my car needs changing to
you really should put a plaster on that injured thumb
Where do you get your parts from 😁👍👍
On this occasion I used GSF, but I regularly use Eurocarparts and eBay. (I'm in the UK)
It's break fluid not oil
"it's break fluid not oil"
Yes, it's important to be accurate...... so let's add further clarity, it's "brake" fluid. We can all make mistakes 🤣
shame you took some skin off .the price of fame .
Honestly, every time I do anything I end up with some kind of nick/cut/graze. It must be my sift Southerners skin 😀
Would a brake bleed kit work please mate
Most probably. Just depends on your kits hose i.d relative to the bleed nipple size I guess.
Cheers