If you do a big bang on a 3800 you need series 3 rods to do a good comparison to an LS. The series 3 rods are powder metal rods unlike the earlier cast steel rods.
L67 ring gap is probably fine. IIRC it’s top .022 and second .030. If you take the bottom end apart you let all of the factory assembled magic out. Can’t wait to see!
Junior, I’m glad to see that you also know about “factory assembled magic”. That’s why an all original Boss 351 Cleveland engine should never be opened unless it’s absolutely necessary 😉. My GTP with the Series 2, L67 has 200,000 miles of serious abuse and is still a rock solid performer thanks to preventative maintenance and Mobil 1, 10W-30 full synthetic since new. Richard has made the point about opening up the ring gap abundantly clear before getting into the realm of serious boost with higher ring temperatures. I’m curious if 200K miles of ring wear could have already opened the ring gaps enough for the inter-cooled boost upgrade I have planned ? I really want to avoid letting the precious factory assembled magic out 😁.
Only reason I stayed with the V6 in my Typhoon is because well it's a Typhoon. It already had a turbo and with the V6 it was easier to work on under the hood. Plus when a local engine builder who used to build NASCAR engines in the 80's and 90's says he can build a 4.3L V6 that'll handle 30psi and warrantee it I mean how can you turn that down.
Wow sounds absolutely awesome! Back in 2000 or so I was 15years old and had a 95 Chevy S10 SS with a bunch of cosmetic stuff..about a 3" drop , shaved taillights , shaved rear bumper with led brake lights in the roll pan with welded seems, matching black fiberglass bed cover, bolt ons engine mods,full exhaust, headers and JET performance chip (prior to tuning devices they had pre-tuned chips or ecus) . ALWAYS DREAMED of putting a Syclone/Typhoon drive train, engine, running gear underneath that truck and the LS had essentially just came out in the SS Camaro and previously in the newish C5 Vette so I knew that was gonna be too expensive at that time..Always wanted a TYPHOON.
I remember being a kid going to the drag strip on Saturday nights with my buddy who also was obsessed with fast stuff and we saw a white/grey Typhoon run 11.30s and this is back in like 99-2000 so this beast was one of the fasted at the track for someone who drove it there..I launched hard as hell and smashing Vettes and Vipers and even some of the GNX/T TYPE guys got their feeling hurt!! We considered those sleepers back then but more people know about them nowadays.
Also I would highly recommend for crank stability Chuck an m6 or maybe a 1/4” nut behind the oil pressure relief spring along with your favourite race oil it would be best bang for buck bottom end mod
I agree! Especially an L32 bottom end. The rods on the L32 are actually a lot beefier looking than even the Gen 4 LS rods. Can’t wait for this 3800 Big Bang
I think so too.... People are making 6-700+ wheel on the street at over 26lbs, Richard has ideal conditions on the Dyno & is already at 600 motor at 14.5...
I'm loving it. Your videos are awesome. I have a boat that's inboard/outboard and it has 4.3 in it now that makes about 205 hp. It's all iron engine so now you have this 3.8 supercharged from the factory and and I'm thinking about getting one for the boat. I have to do a little bit of checking to make sure the outboard will be a straight up bolt in. The 4.3 in the boat is new and has less than 100 hours actually only about 35 to the best of my knowledge, but more power and less weight is great thing for a boat. And I have a 93 Chevy truck with a woren out tired 4.3 the boat engine would be a great replacement for. Just thinking. I do have a question. My friend has a 05 with a 6.0 with 317 heads and advertised 300 hp from the factory. I have a 13 f150 with a 5.0 and advertised 395 hp from the factory. He asked me why his larger 6.0 made less power than my 5.0 and I don't really have a good answer. I said for 1 factory ratings aren't accurate. 2 my engine has overhead cams and yours doesn't. 3 you have crappiest factory heads Chevy makes that drops your compression ratio. 4 the 5.0 has higher compression than the 6.0. 5 I think Chevy tuned it to be crappy to sell more of the 6.6 duramax engines. I mean if you have a 6.0 gas engine that has more hp and torque then nobody would want the more expensive higher maintenance diesel. Just thinking about it my 5.0 has fairly close to the 6.6 duramax power and torque especially the earlier engines. Was what I said way off base or was I getting it pretty close? Thanks again for the great videos.
Danny, I know that Richard is far more qualified than myself when it comes to providing you with an intelligent answer but your question is good and caught my attention. You pretty much answered your own question with the 5 points that you brought to the table. The late model overhead cam, multi-valve Ford heads are able to deliver a substantial intake charge to the cylinders across a wide range of engine rpms and play a large part in the overall power production. The efficient combustion chamber design along with variable cam timing and precise engine control management system allows for a higher compression ratio for more power without the typical problems associated with high cylinder pressures. These Ford engines have many features that all add up to a surprisingly high power density per liter of engine displacement. Even with the additional width of the OHC heads, the complete engine package is compact enough to make it a viable swap into many earlier model Ford vehicles. The aftermarket jumped all over the popularity of the modular and Coyote engine families with performance parts and engine swap kits specifically designed for Classic Mustangs and more 🏁.
your 5.0L makes more hp and less torque than that 6.0L, but there are other 6.0L LS motors that make more. better heads, and cam timing (VVT) and compression are what give the 5.0L decent power numbers, the 317 heads flow very well (as good as any other factory cath head), but do offer low compression
I still want to do a turbo 390-410 inch FE that makes 350 hp NA with a Comp 270S. 224@.050 110LSA solid flat tappet cam, shorty headers mount backwards and the 72 cc cheap C8AEH heads with 428 CJ sized valves with a GT 45 turbo or whatever you recommend. I d like to see 700-750 as I have a very thick 3-rib 391 bump trunk block that should be able to 800 hp. There are a lot of FE guys looking at turbo setup systems, I’d even go for twin smaller ones into an intercooler and the plumbing like you do for carbed setups. BTW the intake is a very well done PortOSonic matched to the heads. 350 hp is very conservative. Car is a 65 Galaxie 2 dr HT . A close friend of mine said that there is no such thing as a 12 second Galaxie.
Can’t wait to see how it holds up,I’m putting my l36 on the dyno in a couple of weeks,only on pump98 and around 18psi but I’ll have a bottle of nulon octane booster handy to see if it will handle the high setting of 20+psi while static on rollers,i just fitted zzp mls gaskets and arp studs with ported heads with no quench also running a stock un ported manifold for now as my other manifolds either ported too large or not to match these heads
There are a few cars with that engine boosted here in Aus and they make very high power for the amount of boost for exactly that reason, 4 valves, VVT and high rpm range. There are a few people that race these engines NA too with 500ish Hp but they turn at 9k to make that. But that said they are unpopular due to their bad reputation of timing chain issues.
Yeah, you can make a small engine behave like a bigger one with boost. But it usually comes with a cost. (reduced fuel economy and/or reduced reliability)
@@michaelblacktree …. Very true because modern technology still hasn’t built the perfect engine without compromises in the overall scheme of things. Boost or not, high power levels are intoxicating and common sense flys right out the fukin window 👍.
One thing you sorta mentioned was how much boost can a built 3800 handle and I’m sure it can make more power than the 4.8 because the iron block should be able to handle more power so long as the rest of the engine is built right. I’d be interested to know though because I’ve thought about going 3800 turbo but really what sort of transmission would be able to handle that power?
An ICE is basically a super-efficient self-powered air pump... so therefore, power produced correlates to the amount of air pumped through during a given state of operation. How effectively an engine does that is reflected in the design (blueprint details), [static] displacement, valve-train timing events and sonic tuning of the manifolding in use.
You can run a better style manifold, there are a few options available that put the turbo more towards the center, but you could also make a custom setup as well
Buicks did it back in the 80's. Turbo on passenger side and crossover pipe from drivers side ran under the car behind oil pan, front mount innercooler and done.
Just check out my build videos from the past few years. ZZP/Stattama kits squeezed a decent design in there, and I swapped to a similar A2W intercooler as Richard's here.
Nice! Thanks is for all the advice! I have a 01 mustang and want to keep the 3.8 & add boost. It’s nice seeing it possible not having to get a v8 for some decent power.
@@wavywinsday to clarify, this is a Buick 3800, not a Ford. Completely different engines, and the Ford one isn’t as good. Not to discourage you but just something to note
How long would the Boost last or engine last in the 3.8 L compared to the 4.8 L how much more mileage how many years can either one of the engines last. Well?
damn wrong 3.8l can you do ford 3.8 one day? preferably one from 99-04. you'd probably really like the channel: Mustang V6 Tech Support he's a small channel but knows a ton about the ford 3.8L I would LOVE TO SEE A COLLAB!
I wonder if the 3800 II can take 30 psi stock bottom end like the 3800 I and LN3 can? I can't say I have seen any here in Aus in that range but have seen the 2 lower extremes, 6-15 PSI and 40 PSI in one car, nothing in between. The stronger 3800 I is pretty much normal to see 30 PSI in the boosted V6 scene, especially in NZ.
@@richardholdener1727 It's a little more complicated than a yes or no. The limiting factor in the L36 and L67 is the brittle and fragile pistons, especially the L36. They can take a fair bit of power but are very fragile when it comes to knock. Won't be an issue on E85 though. The pistons on the series 1 L27 and LN3 are a lot stronger, much thicker crown and the rings are a lot further down, also the alloy is softer and more malleable, so these factors make the series 1 is a lot more tolerant to knock. The piston's deep dish and small combustion chamber has a great squish area as well which contributes to the knock tolerance. Also when comparing rods, the series 1 have beefier rods compared to the L36 but the L67 is slightly beefier again towards the big end of the rod but still a little thinner up top compared to series 1. The series 1 also have a 1" taller deck and rods (rod ratio of 1.87) which help with lowering the piston's side load and acceleration at TDC and BDC. Probably not anything meaningful though. That said the series 2 obviously has the cross bolted main caps but I have never seen that being much of an advantage over the older 2 bolt caps of the series 1 and older GN style Buick engines. But yeah the old series 1 can take a lot of boost without issues. The other issue I have seen with L36 and L67 is the much thinner head castings that GM did for weight savings, means the heads flex easier than the heavy series 1 castings. This is also why the series 2 often crack heads with age but the series 1 don't. Stock for stock the series 2 will make a little more power for the same boost than the series 1 but the series 1 can take a lot more boost before anything bad happens. Here is Aus both series 1 and 2 were incredibly popular so both engines got a lot of attention and development.
I am very surprised you got that much power out of the 3800 at that boost level. I have an 87 Grand National I’ve run 26 psi at the track and the trap speed of 110 seems like way less power than you were getting at 14 psi. Is the 3800 that much better than the older 3.8 turbo?
@@richardholdener1727 E85 and the engine is all stock with 59 mm turbo and 3” down pipe. I’m guessing it’s around 380 hp as it is now in a full weight car.
Of course the V8 will make more power in the long run but the boosted V6 would still be a ton of fun in a small lightweight car with a tight engine compartment!
Richard, at what power level do you feel that head studs become a necessity? You talked about studs on the V6 for the big bang upcoming test, but curious as to when such mods become necessary.
Head studs are a cost effective safeguard against possibly catastrophic failures. Especially if a blown head gasket isn’t noticed right away like the female drivers in my household have already proven 🙈🙉.
Look up vids on the ASC McLaren Grand Prix GTP. It used the 3.1L 60 degree V6 but with the FWD aluminum heads. Factory turbo setup. Though a small turbo. Otherwise there's some vids on 2.8/3.1/3.4 Camaros with boost. Biggest problem with them is the crap iron heads. Later 3x00 heads really made it a potent, light, extremely compact powerplant.
Richard I can’t believe you keep giving us great content on the 3800!!!! Appreciate it💪🏿💪🏿
If you do a big bang on a 3800 you need series 3 rods to do a good comparison to an LS. The series 3 rods are powder metal rods unlike the earlier cast steel rods.
Can’t wait to see the Big Bang 3.8
BIG BANG 3800 OR BUST ! ✊😎
Can't wait for big bang v6!
You're doing such cool things man. Keep it up.
"Boost is always the answer!" - Richard Holdener
I've gunna make that a small decal for my rear window
L67 ring gap is probably fine. IIRC it’s top .022 and second .030. If you take the bottom end apart you let all of the factory assembled magic out. Can’t wait to see!
Junior, I’m glad to see that you also know about “factory assembled magic”. That’s why an all original Boss 351 Cleveland engine should never be opened unless it’s absolutely necessary 😉.
My GTP with the Series 2, L67 has 200,000 miles of serious abuse and is still a rock solid performer thanks to preventative maintenance and Mobil 1, 10W-30 full synthetic since new.
Richard has made the point about opening up the ring gap abundantly clear before getting into the realm of serious boost with higher ring temperatures. I’m curious if 200K miles of ring wear could have already opened the ring gaps enough for the inter-cooled boost upgrade I have planned ? I really want to avoid letting the precious factory assembled magic out 😁.
I can’t wait for more people to catch on to this dude, love these videos
Interested in the power to weight ratio of the motors. The v6 can make more sense in something that the weight and size of a v8 does not work
th-cam.com/video/t9lk9x5Z0sc/w-d-xo.html 3200lbs 8.50s with ease. The 3800 is a bad ass piece. Love them.
No definitely not Ricard. But the V6 Turbo is doing well. I can't wait to see what happens when you turn it right up 😂👍🔥👏💯
I think this big bang is going to be epic...would be nice to see a Toyota Pickup 22r big bang...now that's other guys!
The 3800 is the little engine that could... and did!!! 600hp+
Only reason I stayed with the V6 in my Typhoon is because well it's a Typhoon. It already had a turbo and with the V6 it was easier to work on under the hood. Plus when a local engine builder who used to build NASCAR engines in the 80's and 90's says he can build a 4.3L V6 that'll handle 30psi and warrantee it I mean how can you turn that down.
Wow sounds absolutely awesome! Back in 2000 or so I was 15years old and had a 95 Chevy S10 SS with a bunch of cosmetic stuff..about a 3" drop , shaved taillights , shaved rear bumper with led brake lights in the roll pan with welded seems, matching black fiberglass bed cover, bolt ons engine mods,full exhaust, headers and JET performance chip (prior to tuning devices they had pre-tuned chips or ecus) .
ALWAYS DREAMED of putting a Syclone/Typhoon drive train, engine, running gear underneath that truck and the LS had essentially just came out in the SS Camaro and previously in the newish C5 Vette so I knew that was gonna be too expensive at that time..Always wanted a TYPHOON.
I remember being a kid going to the drag strip on Saturday nights with my buddy who also was obsessed with fast stuff and we saw a white/grey Typhoon run 11.30s and this is back in like 99-2000 so this beast was one of the fasted at the track for someone who drove it there..I launched hard as hell and smashing Vettes and Vipers and even some of the GNX/T TYPE guys got their feeling hurt!! We considered those sleepers back then but more people know about them nowadays.
Also I would highly recommend for crank stability Chuck an m6 or maybe a 1/4” nut behind the oil pressure relief spring along with your favourite race oil it would be best bang for buck bottom end mod
Dear God, thanks for the Daily Dose of The Dyno Dude!
I think you'll make more than 1000 on the 3800 big bang
I agree! Especially an L32 bottom end. The rods on the L32 are actually a lot beefier looking than even the Gen 4 LS rods. Can’t wait for this 3800 Big Bang
I think so too.... People are making 6-700+ wheel on the street at over 26lbs, Richard has ideal conditions on the Dyno & is already at 600 motor at 14.5...
Bring the boost in slowly on the 3800 big bang u get it up to the 1000hp mark just need to upgrade oil pump and rod bolts as well
rod bolts need to be stock
Best. Intro. Ever. :)
Good stuff as always Richard!! :)
i'd really like to see the 3800 big bang then i'll know how hard i can push mine
I'm loving it. Your videos are awesome. I have a boat that's inboard/outboard and it has 4.3 in it now that makes about 205 hp. It's all iron engine so now you have this 3.8 supercharged from the factory and and I'm thinking about getting one for the boat. I have to do a little bit of checking to make sure the outboard will be a straight up bolt in. The 4.3 in the boat is new and has less than 100 hours actually only about 35 to the best of my knowledge, but more power and less weight is great thing for a boat. And I have a 93 Chevy truck with a woren out tired 4.3 the boat engine would be a great replacement for. Just thinking.
I do have a question. My friend has a 05 with a 6.0 with 317 heads and advertised 300 hp from the factory. I have a 13 f150 with a 5.0 and advertised 395 hp from the factory. He asked me why his larger 6.0 made less power than my 5.0 and I don't really have a good answer. I said for 1 factory ratings aren't accurate. 2 my engine has overhead cams and yours doesn't. 3 you have crappiest factory heads Chevy makes that drops your compression ratio. 4 the 5.0 has higher compression than the 6.0. 5 I think Chevy tuned it to be crappy to sell more of the 6.6 duramax engines. I mean if you have a 6.0 gas engine that has more hp and torque then nobody would want the more expensive higher maintenance diesel. Just thinking about it my 5.0 has fairly close to the 6.6 duramax power and torque especially the earlier engines. Was what I said way off base or was I getting it pretty close? Thanks again for the great videos.
Danny, I know that Richard is far more qualified than myself when it comes to providing you with an intelligent answer but your question is good and caught my attention.
You pretty much answered your own question with the 5 points that you brought to the table. The late model overhead cam, multi-valve Ford heads are able to deliver a substantial intake charge to the cylinders across a wide range of engine rpms and play a large part in the overall power production.
The efficient combustion chamber design along with variable cam timing and precise engine control management system allows for a higher compression ratio for more power without the typical problems associated with high cylinder pressures.
These Ford engines have many features that all add up to a surprisingly high power density per liter of engine displacement. Even with the additional width of the OHC heads, the complete engine package is compact enough to make it a viable swap into many earlier model Ford vehicles.
The aftermarket jumped all over the popularity of the modular and Coyote engine families with performance parts and engine swap kits specifically designed for Classic Mustangs and more 🏁.
your 5.0L makes more hp and less torque than that 6.0L, but there are other 6.0L LS motors that make more. better heads, and cam timing (VVT) and compression are what give the 5.0L decent power numbers, the 317 heads flow very well (as good as any other factory cath head), but do offer low compression
Richard. Keep adding boost to that 3800.! Go for 4 digits on stock bottome end! That would be awesome To seeeeeeee
I still want to do a turbo 390-410 inch FE that makes 350 hp NA with a Comp 270S. 224@.050 110LSA solid flat tappet cam, shorty headers mount backwards and the 72 cc cheap C8AEH heads with 428 CJ sized valves with a GT 45 turbo or whatever you recommend. I d like to see 700-750 as I have a very thick 3-rib 391 bump trunk block that should be able to 800 hp. There are a lot of FE guys looking at turbo setup systems, I’d even go for twin smaller ones into an intercooler and the plumbing like you do for carbed setups. BTW the intake is a very well done PortOSonic matched to the heads. 350 hp is very conservative. Car is a 65 Galaxie 2 dr HT . A close friend of mine said that there is no such thing as a 12 second Galaxie.
that size motor needs an S475 or 7875 VS racing turbo
Can’t wait to see how it holds up,I’m putting my l36 on the dyno in a couple of weeks,only on pump98 and around 18psi but I’ll have a bottle of nulon octane booster handy to see if it will handle the high setting of 20+psi while static on rollers,i just fitted zzp mls gaskets and arp studs with ported heads with no quench also running a stock un ported manifold for now as my other manifolds either ported too large or not to match these heads
what cam?
Give it ALL the boost!
My 2013 Impala V6 puts out 300 hp. Would be interesting to see what a 4 valve V6 that breathes better can do.
There are a few cars with that engine boosted here in Aus and they make very high power for the amount of boost for exactly that reason, 4 valves, VVT and high rpm range.
There are a few people that race these engines NA too with 500ish Hp but they turn at 9k to make that. But that said they are unpopular due to their bad reputation of timing chain issues.
Love your videos. Would love to see the max you can push outta both of those motors before they blow. Keep killing it
we did that with the 4.8L, we will do it with the 3800
There’s no replacement for displacement….sometimes.
Lost displacement can use boost as a proper replacement….all the time 🏁.
A healthy NA engine will always outperform a worn out engine, even under Super/Turbo Charging.
@@shadowopsairman1583 … That’s a fairly safe bet, for sure.
Yeah, you can make a small engine behave like a bigger one with boost. But it usually comes with a cost. (reduced fuel economy and/or reduced reliability)
@@michaelblacktree …. Very true because modern technology still hasn’t built the perfect engine without compromises in the overall scheme of things. Boost or not, high power levels are intoxicating and common sense flys right out the fukin window 👍.
Richard, can you do a test on different size exhaust housings to show the effects of too small an AR vs a HUGE AR...
What are your thoughts on the 1985 Shelby Dodge Charger Daytona 4 Cylinder Twin Turbo 2.2?
twin?
@@richardholdener1727 yes sir
3800’s are built like ls’s forged steel internals if I’m not mistaken
Everything goes better with boost. 😉
Richard it's been a year now at least. Whatever happened to that big bang 3800?
One thing you sorta mentioned was how much boost can a built 3800 handle and I’m sure it can make more power than the 4.8 because the iron block should be able to handle more power so long as the rest of the engine is built right. I’d be interested to know though because I’ve thought about going 3800 turbo but really what sort of transmission would be able to handle that power?
the 4.8L has an iron block and can go over 1500 hp
@@richardholdener1727 oh wow didn’t realize that lol, for some reason I thought it was aluminum
The 3800 has been 1350 wheel hp in Aus with the factory block.
A chevy 3.4 LQ1 would be a cool other guys video
Seeing those red exhaust manifolds makes me wonder if I need a steel hood if I run a turbo.? Currently have a srt fiberglass on my Charger.
An ICE is basically a super-efficient self-powered air pump... so therefore, power produced correlates to the amount of air pumped through during a given state of operation. How effectively an engine does that is reflected in the design (blueprint details), [static] displacement, valve-train timing events and sonic tuning of the manifolding in use.
Are you wanting to be graded by the teacher or something?
"An ICE is basically a super-efficient self-powered air pump"
FALSE. Internal combustion engines are extremely inefficient.
Personally I blame squirrels
They made a better breathing cylinder heads for the 3.8
I love it! Just wondering how to get that whole 3.8 set up under the hood
You can run a better style manifold, there are a few options available that put the turbo more towards the center, but you could also make a custom setup as well
Buicks did it back in the 80's. Turbo on passenger side and crossover pipe from drivers side ran under the car behind oil pan, front mount innercooler and done.
Just check out my build videos from the past few years. ZZP/Stattama kits squeezed a decent design in there, and I swapped to a similar A2W intercooler as Richard's here.
Nice! Thanks is for all the advice! I have a 01 mustang and want to keep the 3.8 & add boost. It’s nice seeing it possible not having to get a v8 for some decent power.
@@wavywinsday to clarify, this is a Buick 3800, not a Ford. Completely different engines, and the Ford one isn’t as good. Not to discourage you but just something to note
How long would the Boost last or engine last in the 3.8 L compared to the 4.8 L how much more mileage how many years can either one of the engines last. Well?
boost lasts forever
damn wrong 3.8l can you do ford 3.8 one day? preferably one from 99-04. you'd probably really like the channel: Mustang V6 Tech Support he's a small channel but knows a ton about the ford 3.8L I would LOVE TO SEE A COLLAB!
I wonder if the 3800 II can take 30 psi stock bottom end like the 3800 I and LN3 can? I can't say I have seen any here in Aus in that range but have seen the 2 lower extremes, 6-15 PSI and 40 PSI in one car, nothing in between. The stronger 3800 I is pretty much normal to see 30 PSI in the boosted V6 scene, especially in NZ.
3800 series 1 is stronger?
@@richardholdener1727 It's a little more complicated than a yes or no. The limiting factor in the L36 and L67 is the brittle and fragile pistons, especially the L36. They can take a fair bit of power but are very fragile when it comes to knock. Won't be an issue on E85 though. The pistons on the series 1 L27 and LN3 are a lot stronger, much thicker crown and the rings are a lot further down, also the alloy is softer and more malleable, so these factors make the series 1 is a lot more tolerant to knock. The piston's deep dish and small combustion chamber has a great squish area as well which contributes to the knock tolerance. Also when comparing rods, the series 1 have beefier rods compared to the L36 but the L67 is slightly beefier again towards the big end of the rod but still a little thinner up top compared to series 1. The series 1 also have a 1" taller deck and rods (rod ratio of 1.87) which help with lowering the piston's side load and acceleration at TDC and BDC. Probably not anything meaningful though. That said the series 2 obviously has the cross bolted main caps but I have never seen that being much of an advantage over the older 2 bolt caps of the series 1 and older GN style Buick engines. But yeah the old series 1 can take a lot of boost without issues. The other issue I have seen with L36 and L67 is the much thinner head castings that GM did for weight savings, means the heads flex easier than the heavy series 1 castings. This is also why the series 2 often crack heads with age but the series 1 don't. Stock for stock the series 2 will make a little more power for the same boost than the series 1 but the series 1 can take a lot more boost before anything bad happens. Here is Aus both series 1 and 2 were incredibly popular so both engines got a lot of attention and development.
cam only 4.8 400+ horse thats a real motor cost me 5k to make 400 horse on a 306 SBF four point great FTW
I am very surprised you got that much power out of the 3800 at that boost level. I have an 87 Grand National I’ve run 26 psi at the track and the trap speed of 110 seems like way less power than you were getting at 14 psi. Is the 3800 that much better than the older 3.8 turbo?
are you running on pump gas and does it have a cam in it?
@@richardholdener1727 E85 and the engine is all stock with 59 mm turbo and 3” down pipe. I’m guessing it’s around 380 hp as it is now in a full weight car.
Series 2 breaths a lot better, also is smaller (you know, size) but has diffrent bellhousing than a series 1
Richard, I watched your review of the gt45 and used it on a vq35de Maxima
nice
Bro im looking to throw a gt45 on a vq what rpm are you spooling at?
Of course the V8 will make more power in the long run but the boosted V6 would still be a ton of fun in a small lightweight car with a tight engine compartment!
Drop a LU3 under the Hood.
Richard, at what power level do you feel that head studs become a necessity? You talked about studs on the V6 for the big bang upcoming test, but curious as to when such mods become necessary.
I use them with boost
Head studs are a cost effective safeguard against possibly catastrophic failures. Especially if a blown head gasket isn’t noticed right away like the female drivers in my household have already proven 🙈🙉.
Look up corn fed boost on TH-cam he made over 900 Ho at the wheels on a 3.8 in Australia
I recommend getting a microphone meant to for high dB, you could get some mint v8 turbo noises, and maybe some fat idles from the different cams
Moar boooooooooost!
Hey Richard what ever happened to the magnum videos any more coming soon?
just tore it apart in my garage
Cool video man ... T⚡B
Yeah! Fiero!!!
I don't have a Fiero anymore. But I still get excited when people talk about them. LOL
Turbo LU3 next
Hey have you done anything with chevy 5 cylinder engines?
not yet
Do 3.8 versus alloytec
Richard have you done the one piece rear main 302 yet?
This stuff is Awsome!
Like engine porn!!!
Beating that 3.8 drum for a long time huh
A few months at least. It's been a few years and he's still beating on the LS drum lol
easy to cure
& I'm loving it.
@@jaybeezi 🤘 this is necessary
@Clayton Yates - We're all enjoying this. So sit down and wait your turn.
UPLOAD on RUMBLE
Has anyone done a dyno run with a turbo'd 3.1l? (3rd gen camaro)
Look up vids on the ASC McLaren Grand Prix GTP.
It used the 3.1L 60 degree V6 but with the FWD aluminum heads. Factory turbo setup.
Though a small turbo.
Otherwise there's some vids on 2.8/3.1/3.4 Camaros with boost. Biggest problem with them is the crap iron heads. Later 3x00 heads really made it a potent, light, extremely compact powerplant.
@@of_lion22 Right on...I'll look into them. thanks for the info.
Sith
Enough with the 3800, if yer looking for something nifty in yer nova, boost a quad 4 !!!
Nah. Go for two. U8.
Ill raise you a I5 3700