Getting the Big Foot back up to speed. Im an idiot. New top speed run.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 เม.ย. 2021
- Well I discovered why we lost 2 mph. With the off road tire installed on the big foot, the motor adjustment plate screws were rubbing the tire! Im such a goof for not noticing during assembly. Watch the video to find out if we get that 2mph back!
Thanks for hanging out, please like and subscribe I enjoy the support!
Sorry again for the video quality. I am recoding in 1080p but my editing software on my potato of a laptop makes processing difficult. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thanks for doing these!
Nice video dude!
I know you haven’t made a video in a couple of months, but you should make a video about tuning the wa and wt style carburetors. Blueprinting, testing pop off pressures, needle arm height, all you know because it sounds like you’re knowledgeable and me and I bet a whole lot of other people could really benefit. Right now I believe I need to rebuild my 813 on my “reeded” (reeded in quotes because it’s not necessary ported for a cylinder reed, just standard 4 transfer port with lowers intake and raised exhaust) ported sport because I don’t see any fuel pouring down the waterfall jet, it fluctuates from a decent tune to lean, and back again, and just now it won’t even start. I highly doubt it’s a vacuum leak or a spark or compression issue because I slapped the reed valve on and it was doing great, and when looking down the venturi of the carb at WOT, I could see the fuel delivery literally fluctuating. I hope you’re doing okay, you’re awesome.
That’s for the support man! I think that would be an awesome video!! However I am currently moving and my shop is packed up. I meant to make a video about it but I lost track of time. I’ll keep the idea for a future video!
@@aaronpratt89 Thanks Aron, I’m glad you’re okay. I know the pains of moving, especially when there’s infinite heavy antiques. I’ve been messing around with my sport and it is making me loose my mind. It’s a “rovan 29cc” with a Sikk toys mid bleed pipe, dgi rc reed, walbro 813, with some mild porting, not even reed porting. I cleaned several areas of the carb twice and it is still running extremely inconsistently, and I have no idea if it is the carb or a vacuum leak. I’ll swap my 1107 on later.
@@rabbitfootedkitty1339 these stupid diaphragm style carbs suck and are such a pain to diagnose and repair. From what I have ran across over the years 9 times out of 10 if a basic rebuild kit doesnt make then run right you usually have bad/dirty check valves inside the carb causing the engine to run erratically and it get annoying.i have wasted so many hours of my life trying to clean and resurrect these old diaphragm type carbs and I have gotten to the point with them that I wont even take them apart anymore. 10-15 years ago they used to be really expensive and hard to get so everyone would try to fix them but now a days they are so cheap (usually under $50) that it's not worth the aggravation and headache of trying to rebuild them. I had a few pieces of stihl equipment that had been sitting and the carbs on them were shot and I went to the local stihl dealer and they wouldnt even bother selling the rebuild kits, instead they sell brand new carbs for $25-$60 a piece depending on the model and are good to go right out of the box and saves everyone time and money and chances are that if you have a carb that needs check valves, the throttle shaft bores and other passages are probally wore out and not worth rebuilding anyway. Also make sure the "pulse port" to the carb is clear and not blocked by your reed block or your gaskets, have have seen people install the wrong gaskets or incorrectly install the right gaskets and stop the carb from seeing case pressure and vacuum which stops the diaphragms from working.
@@briang4470 What about the modified carbs with throttle shafts supported by ball bearings from DDM? Anyways, yeah I’m pretty sure my reed setup is okay so that the pressure line is getting good pulse for the fuel pump. My reed setup is so you don’t have to drill any pressure lines going into the crankcase. It works off of the stock engine block, which is nice. I’m pretty sure it lost spark or something blew up internally because it didn’t look like it had any spark. I still need to tare everything apart and investigate. I’ve just been busy with work and not much motivation for Gopeds and any other fun shit right now. It still has compression so I doubt anything blew up inside lol. I have another Goped style scooter that my neighbor gave to me for free, a Sikk Toys branded scooter. I ported the cylinder a bit. Raised the exhaust, lowered the intake, eyebrows on the transfers closest to the intake port, KT Preformance style crankcase stuffing where the jb weld in the transfers matches the diameter of the crank for better air flow I guess, but I want to reed port it. If you know anything about reed porting a piston port engine, Brian, I would love some advice to get the most reliability and power out of it.
@@rabbitfootedkitty1339 having the ball bearing throttle shafts are nice but really are kind of pointless. Because yes the throttle shaft wont wear out but even on a non bearing carb, the check valves and diaphragms in the carb will go out and cause trouble way before you will have throttle shaft issues. Unfortunately I'm not too knowledgeable about converting to reed port but I know that ultimately a case reed set up is far superior, the biggest problem with using one of those bolt on reeds in the stock location is that too make it work you will have to either grind down or drill windows into the intake side of the piston to allow the air fuel mixture in and by doing that you make the piston a bit unstable and hurt the balance of it, you can also grind away the bottom of the intake port but you are limited in what you can remove, so it's a trade off, read up on some forums and see if anyone has any step by step how to or set ups. I'm pretty good with basic assembly and general repairs and minor mods but as far as altering port timing and changing an engine from non reed to reed I dont know what the best way to go about it is. But remember that you must have your pulse feed for the carb from the crankcase, or make sure that the port on your reed is directly to the case, if you are trying to get your pulse from the carb side of the reed the fuel pump will never work right that's why alot of guys tap the case and put a nipple with a line going straight to the fuel pump.
is it possible to attach a thin spindle to the crank thats long enough, or something similar to extend to the other side of the tire enough so that you can install a chain setup on the other side of the tire. Would something like this work? I'm new to gopeds and mine are spindle drive, but my fab guy says if I install a chain on the left side of the tire, it will misalign the wheels. Thats why I was thinking of doing it this way instead but not experienced enough to know if something like that will work.
I’m not going to tell you that it’s not possible. However there are several chain drive models. The main challenge in you idea is the engine turns the wrong way to be chain driven. You would have to move the engine to the other side of the machine to have the correct rotation. Look up GSR-sport, GSR-40, GSR-25, GSR-46R, Trail Ripper. Those are some examples of the chain driven machines.
You did notice the tire rubbing when you did the lockdown install video. You were like “hmm, it looks like the tire is rubbing or something”. But then you just moved on. 😂
That sounds about right 🤣🤣
Bro are you legit popping wheelies ??? That's nuts bro
Can’t wait for more videos, do you have a tuning videos with a 167 or 668 for an LH?
Not yet. I will create a tuning video once I’m back up and running! Sorry for the delayed reply
This 3rd bearing and lockout kit work a clutch setup ? Would like the bike to idle and stops to make it easier for my boy to ride.
Yea most 54mm clutch setups bolt right on. However I thing the 3rd bearing has to be removed because the clutch sticks out farther then the engine does and there is a clearance issue with the bearing and spindle.
@@aaronpratt89 I will just buy the clutch and make my own lock out with mini rod end I have .
@@aaronpratt89 just spent 211$ I would like the motor to last as long as possible. Why I wanted the 3rd bearing support if guy keeps tension right on motor to wheel should last awhile???
@@armdrop101 the clutch should bolt right on to the lock down kit. Just tap the 3ed bearing out of the lock down kit. The 3ed bearing is used when you are not using a clutch. If you are using a clutch you don’t need the 3rd bearing.
@@aaronpratt89 u have Instagram??
I had the same issue and flipped the wheel over. Oddly enough it fixed it.
We need a how to wheelie video
Hey buddy. I'm curious about a few things with the gsr-40 goped. Message me sometime if you ever can. I need a reliable and not too pricey place for parts.
Ddm racing is where I buy all of my parts.
The porting in these lh engine is so sad that they just wont rev in stock form, when I had an lh on my bigfoot with the same jetpro pipe I could pin it down the road and get to top speed and pick the engine up with the clutch and it wouldn't rev any higher unloaded vs loaded. They really want the exhaust port raised and a rock it key for more ignition timing.
It has a rocket key now. It helped a little. But yes the poring is sad. It’s engineered as a low rpm utility engine. It really needs more transfer ports to make good power.
@@aaronpratt89 would adding a reed and a single boost port be worth it? What about a full circle crank and some crankcase stuffing?
Definitely give it a insane port. And then maybe go with the cy26.9cc big bore
I have several stages of porting that I want to do 😎
@@aaronpratt89 if you gain some power I might send my lh cylinder to you😁
@@JonnyDisilva-z06 well stay tuned and you can judge what you need done lol
Im getting a bigfoot soon for 250 usd. Cant wait
Can you tell me when you start it do you need the choke to be on or of and then when it starts what side is the choke ment to be thanks
Choke is only used to start a cold engine. There should be a symbol that shows when the choke is closed and when the coke is open. Close the choke, start the engine. Open the choke to ride.
@@aaronpratt89 ok thanks and push starting is that for all go ped engine or just sport because it will have a pull start cable
@@danyal4378 any friction drive Goped can be push started, or pull started as long as the rear wheel is off of the ground.
@@aaronpratt89 but are 2 stroke engine reliable because I had one and they keep failing after one day use
@@danyal4378 you have to be sure you are premixing the fuel with oil. If you do not at the correct amount of oil to the fuel it will kill the engine.
Hey! I have a goped xped with a 750 spindle and a polished g230rc with a ported walbro clone. Is there a cheap way to make it faster? I can't run a pipe because it's to loud:(
I recommend the 30.5cc big bore kit. And a Walbro 990 carb. That will increase the hp and you can still run a quiet exhaust.
@@aaronpratt89 thx! Now I need to find a bigbore kit. Not that easy in Germany... greetings from Berlin!
@@levisylvester ddmracing.com
Shipping takes a month and cost 40 € 😞 but I will find something 🙂
@@levisylvester international takes some time to ship
Dude it's been two months can you post another vidio plz!
I would love to man, but I’m moving my family and we are between houses and every thing is in storage 😭😭😭
What oil did you say it was a little mumbling lol
I use Motul 800 road race! Sorry for the southern slang mixed into a Baltimore accent 🤣
No worries lol only ever ran castor 927 a buddy tried the klotz and blew his head up 😅 weary to try new oils but motul works great on my motorcycles so why not
@@justintimeforbrownies5246 I’m a huge castor 927 fan. I’ve used that oil up until I discovered Motul 800 in maybe 2017. I still have castor in my garage lol
Ordering a bottle of the motul for my f270 big bore (29cc) biggie should be fun 🤩
@@justintimeforbrownies5246 you’ll like the oil. I’ve noticed a huge difference.
Wouldn't it rub if you started riding it and hitting corners cuz tires compress and move while on the road
It rubbed the entire time I was riding it. Check my previous videos to see the loss of top speed. Note the grove in the tire. These tires don’t flex as much as you think with 50psi in them.
Boa noite amigo eu recentemente peguei um goped, não sei direito se é 23cc ou 29cc ...e aqui no Brasil não tenho muitas informações a respeito... eu gostaria de quando eu estivesse andando e tivesse que parar o motor continuasse ligado, e não desliga-se, a minha pergunta oque eu tenho que fazer pra que ele continuasse ligado parado com a roda encostada no solo ??? .... vou ter que mudar o motor pra um outro tipo, tem alguma peça pra acoplar no eixo que faz virar a roda ser acionada quando eu acelerar???
You need to install a clutch kit.
www.ddmracing.com/ada-54mm-centrifugal-go-ped-scooter-clutch-kit
You might need to order the right spindle to use the clutch kit. I am assuming you have the sport model Goped.
@@aaronpratt89 obrigado amigo por ter respondido... fiz um vídeo do meu goped de uma olhada por favor.
@@aaronpratt89 th-cam.com/users/shortszlX1XMUzkr4?feature=share
I can’t say that is a true Goped brand scooter. But it looks close to the sport. I posted a link for the clutch kit. It should fit that engine.
@@aaronpratt89 eu não imaginava que existia réplica dessas scooter... aqui no Brasil usamos muito o walk machine acho que aí não tem muitos deles, e também acho que você não conhece??? O meu walk machine eu troquei o motor por um 75cc agora ficou muito rápido, caso você tenha interesse esse é o vídeo.
Port it port it big breath baby breath 😁
U did notice it lol u had to many beers in that video
Way too many building that thing 🤣🤣
@@aaronpratt89 lol I feel pickedup one for my boy for 350$ bigfoot. Turns out motor was shelled so I ordered a replacement from go ped.
Ok, show us the ports.