To view the next video in this series click: www.monkeysee.com/play/19854 In this video series, learn tips from the pros on how to get smooth walls for a professional finish.
As professional drywall finisher with several decades of experience, I'm going to make a couple suggestions. There is a product available called Fibafuse, which is basically a stronger non adhesive fiberglass mesh tape. It is wafer-thin, and will hide easier than standard mesh tape. Can be embedded and coated in one process. As always, deep cracks should be pre-filled before application. I would also suggest feathering your mud 10 to 12 inches on each side of your tape. This will spread your high spot out over a larger area, making it less noticeable, something to be considered in critical lighting areas. Excellent tip about pre priming before paint. Far too many do-it-yourselfers don't do this.
@@Doesitslap101 I prefer a setting-type compound, commonly referred to as "hot mud". It shrinks very little when mixed correctly, and will reduce the chances of stress cracking due to shrinkage of the tape applied over it. It is available at most home do-it-yourself stores. It comes in powdered form (bags), with varying setting times - 5 minute, 20 minute, 40 òr 45 minute, 90 minute, and even five-hour set times. For small patches, I prefer the five minute mud, as you don't have to wait for an extended period of time for it to set up. For the average do-it-yourselfer, I would recommend using 20 minute though, às the five-minute variety really does set up in five minutes. All of these compounds will begin to harden in the prescribed time frame, so you don't want to mix more than you can use in the allotted time. Small amounts are easily mixed in a standard mud pan. Add a small amount of powder, and stir with a 1 in to 1 and 1/2 inch putty knife, gradually adding water to the desired thickness. Drizzling from a spongewill allow you to control the amount of water you add and the rate at which you add it. Try to mix it to a good workable consistency. Be sure to have a bucket of water and small kitchen scrubber sponge òr brush immediately available for cleanup. Try not to wait until the compound starts to harden before cleanup. If you decide to try and use it to coat fasteners and joints, make sure your work is clean and flat, as it does not sand easily. Your final coat should always be with a regular joint compound if you decide to go this route. Setting-type coumpounds contain a catalyst that will often burn through paint if not sealed with regular joint compound.
@@babydoll8701 I'm not familiar with that product, but based upon the consistency of the various spackling compounds that I have used, I would not recommend trying to embed fiba-fuse with it.
Thanks for sharing this. Gosh, I love the internet. DIY stuff is actually fun when you can watch someone show you how to do it first. A "how to" video sinks into my brain much better than reading...at least for me.
Thank God for these videos that teach us how to do it ourselves! Was in the process of calling around to get bids to repair a few cracks Ive noticed in my 50s home. Thank goodness I remember to look on TH-cam which I have come to rely on for other do-it-yourself projects and tips! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you for this easy DIY video that just saved me over $150 in contract labor for less than $30 in supplies!!
Exactly what I wanted to watch, all these other videos with drilling screws , and painting first and expanding this and that and mixing their own blablabla la this was straight to the point and something a beginner can take pointers from .
I have been repairing and remodeling my home for 4 years now. This is the one problem I haven't managed to fix properly. Thank you, very much, for breaking that down into such easy steps ❤️
good general idea, a Tip, cut the mesh tape narrow to one inch wide to make the repair smaller , two coats of compound should suffice with practice, mesh repairs can last a few years, and can also return if the wall is moving or shifting , but over all Good instructions , thanks for the tips!
3 Questions. 1) is it necessary to widen the crack? Why is that done? What is the purpose of widening the crack and does it matter if its a wide or small thin crack? 2) how much time do you need to wait before reapplying each coat of compound? 3) can you use any compound?
hi your video is very helpful this will be my first settlement crack fix like yours question is ultra thin joint tape correct? and what type of primer is that you used in the purple can? thanks
Thanks and love your videos. Questions: Two areas on my ceiling seen to be too short an hangs down from the wood facing that goes the top wall. How do I correct that?
When I repair such A crack, I scrape the dried compound down to the underlying tape. Confirm there is A tape there & completely remove it if there is one. The seam may have cracked due to no tape being present or like he said due to the house shifting or settling. Scrape off the existing dried compound & tape to expose the screws near the seams' edge. It's very important to first of all check that that wall board is firmly attached, if any doubt add extra screws to both sides of the seam careful not to overtighten the screws through the first layer of drywall paper to give A secure hold but yet countersunk just enough to be covered by mud. Remove any loose drywall & screws as well. If A gap in the seam is present, fill it with A low shrinkage quick set fill such as sheetrock or prorock 20, 60 or 90 depending on how fast you wish for it to set up. 20 is 20 minutes, 60 is for 60 minutes, etc...this comes as A powder form & is to be mixed with water. It will even set under water & after cured isn't affected by water. Regular compound will often sag out of the seam before setting up & take a lot more time to dry thoroughly & shrink a lot more so I don't use it for the first filling unless I got a low shrinkage drywall compound & lots of time to wait for it to cure. I avoids the fiberglass tape because I've seen it crack many times & I've often repaired seams have that tape present. I prefer smooth paper tape over perforated tape on butt joints such as this too because the perforated tape have holes to help hold the compound but the punched out paper from these holes are still attached, stick off & show through the dried compound if you sand down too close to the tape & will appear through the painted surface as little dots. More mud is needed to cover this type of tape so I avoids using it when I can. The first coat of compound over existing paint usually is applied without trouble but as you will see the second coat will very often times bubble as the setting compound has reacted with the paints' chemicals & sometimes very badly. Just apply the compound & scape it all off if this happens. Reapply & when it bubbles again, scrape it all off again. This time in the opposite direction. Apply compound again & leave it to dry. Repeat like this on the next coats should bubbles continue to appear. They will lessen as your coats become thinner. You can also use just the quickset filler if it isn't too hard to sand in place of drywall compound for less bubbling due to it setting up faster having less time to be reacting with the paint, go with the 20 minute setting one. Always use A haf face respirator for mixing the powdered fillers & sanding & not the cheaper paper dust masks of any kind, that dust can cause asbestoses. You can get A vacumme sander outfit for a shop vac that you can use. Use 220 grit sanding screen using stroking motions at a 45 degree angle to avoid sanding streaks but I would use A finer sanding block on any walls that have sunshine for A much smoother finish & hold the vacume sander close to catch the fine dust. Also use the yellow fine dust bag in the vaccume, regular bags don't catch this fine dust & will circulate through the air & also harm your vacumes' motor.
I use a powdered quick dry (90) minute with a glue added. the glue allows for expansion and settleing. you do need the one quarter inch dug out. no taping required. I can't explain exactly how it works but it does.
I was raised in the drywall and stucco business in South florida. I am myself a state licensed stucco, drywall and framing contractor. The truth is mesh tape is the best way to go for a crack. Problem is when you have a smooth finish if you sand too deep, that mesh will shine back through. Alot of times the joint is a bit high and even a true three coats still leave very little mud on top of the mesh. So even a light sanding will expose the mesh and when you paint it it sticks out like a sore thumb. If it's a smooth finish, instead of skip trowel or knockdown, then use paper tape. Make sure there is mud behind the paper tape and laid down tight against the wall. (No air bubbles behind the tape) Then a couple coats over top of the tape. Oh yeah, the trick to sanding a patch is to sand out your edges first, then lightly sand in circular motion the whole patch. Lightly. When applying joint compound or any hot mud use tight coats and lay the edges down tight. People think sand paper will take care of a bunch of mud that was left all caked on. Don't make that mistake. You will be sanding a long time just to have to add more mud anyway. Multiple tight coats and light sand. That's what your looking for.
Just wondering why you would not fill the crack 1st with drywall joint compound. Then place the self adhesive tape over the dried joint compound. Then feather out the joint compound over that.
Hello, excellent video. But can you maybe create a video for those cracks that you keep hitting and hammering to find the dry sides of it and you end up with a big hole on the wall ?(haha). Well not a hole, but a big gap in the wall's plaster. How can that be repaired? Thanks for sharing your expertise with the world.
I've been finishing drywall for 30 years. the best way to fix a crack above a door or window is to cut out old tape and put some new nails in seam. the reason it cracked in the first place is because the hangers didn't put enough nails to begin with! and this guy needs to learn how to hold a finishing knife! half these videos I see on the internet of people doing drywall repairs have no idea what they are doing!
Best thing to do is to dab dab dab the primer with your paint brush. That will give that texture finish and you will never know once u put the final paint over it.
Where that crack is I can almost guarantee that crack has reappeared since 2011. Being a stress-related crack it needs a stress control joint.What this guy has done would be a quick fix if you want to sell the property.
The way I fix a crack over door is ,i cut old tape out ,its very easy ,pull old tape off replace with fast and float with hot mud and a tight skim and sand easy as pie.
I have the same problem in my MBR ceiling. It’s a very large bedroom and recovering the entire ceiling with 1/4’ drywall is not an option. Do you just cut the tape into short pieces and follow the cracks?
I was watching this because in my apt my bathroom wall has a vertical crack from ceiling to floor, management here was told about it 8 months ago. But the real major problem in here is that whenever I try to clean the walls the paint comes right off. All the wall are white flat paint, anything that touches them transfers & leaves a mark. I've never had walls before where the paint came right off when cleaning it. I tried being gentle & it still comes off. If the wall gets slightly wet then it becomes almost pliable, if my fingernail accidentally touches it it leaves a permanent impression into the drywall......what in the world would cause this?? Is this from not priming? I used to own my own home for many years & never had this issue with flat paint. I have marks all over my walls from the slightest things & I can't wash the marks off the walls or else the paint comes off.
Nope, you can't use this method. You need to cut out the existing caulking & replace. Depending on what the walls are made of and why the caulk has failed you may need to use caulking primer first.
Fixing cracks and the fine cracks found in some older homes. Hey guys. I have been on many jobs with these crack issues and have seen both mesh and paper tape continue to fail and fail again. What I started doing several years ago that seems to work great as most of my customers are repeat. So I do not see any of these fail. weather its above a door or under a window, middle of wall. If its a stress crack, they just keep coming back as the foundation continues to move for whatever reason. What I do is remove the old tape and mud 2"s on both sides of the crack. Use some coarse screws on both sides making sure you are in the stud. Then I take some 20 and fill the area to just below the drywall edge. Now I use the 4"x4" mesh with the thin aluminum under it.Apply a thin coat of mud and put your 4"x4" patch on using as many as you need depending on how long the crack is. Then finish as you normally would. Then i apply 2 coats of primer and depend on the finish thats on the wall ie" home owner paint job or professional, if you know what I mean. Most home owners seem to put way to much paint on the wall. So if need be I will load my roller to match whats there to blend so you do not see that smooth patched area. Now people that have maybe have a bit of an older home where you see alot of those hairline cracks all over the ceiling and walls. As long as its not at all loose I use a product called Mad Dog primer. Green label. And coat the area and prime with a quality latex primer and then your ready for finish coat. May require two coats of Mad Dog. Spreads nice and goes far. Just read the directions. Also a latex product.
Joe Lister. "Then I take some 20 and fill the area to just below the edge of the drywall" what do you mean by 20. I will give your suggestion a shot and use some aluminum tape before mud and taping. Thanks for sharing
If someone gave you a good answer to this problem please share. I have the same problem. Seem's like everyone has different solutions and I am more confuse now than I was before I read all of this.
easy peasy. give a light scrap with the edge of your joint knife, down the corner crack.. then prime with paint on both sides of the corner.. for the plaster to stick well. then use paper tape and not that mesh tape to finish of the corner. (look on youtube how to tape corners) but if you wanted to try the super short cut? then...
needed to show the finished result. i believe a noticeable bump would show. the crack needs to be treated like drywall butt joint. joint compound needs to go a lot further out to minimize the visibility of the bump because no matter what it is a bump. tapering about a foot to each side will make the seam (bump) invisible.
It's on the top hinge corner of the door... Let's get real, no one looks there and nobody is gonna notice. But I bet you're one of those "professionals" who would completely gouge the customer for what you call proper.
@@tyrel6732 No, not a professional, but from experience. the 1st time I repaired a crack like that, and in pretty much the same manner you did, the bump was very noticeable due to how the light shown on the wall. so let's do get real, a lot of people do notice and more importantly I notice. If I do something I do it right the 1st time. I also don't make stupid accusatory comments against someone because they said something contrary. I can give you a lollipop if that will make you feel better.
Mesh tape has an annoying habit of losing its adhesion and buckling. If you really want to fix the crack, use paper (or solid) joint tape. And your patching margins need to be 10-12 inches on either side.
I would rip out your Fibre tape and lay in paper tape. Matching texture is always hard, You may try and patch it up yourself, fair enough. (trial and error) but I’d recommend hiring a texture man, to flush over ceiling and re texture whole ceiling as one, Texture sounds like it was either an air hopper spray gun or plaster flicked onto the ceiling then run over lightly with a trowel, Prime all plaster before applying texture, Hope this helps though and not to late.. Cheers Mike
Roger GOATdell #SuspenionMan #Rdeezy #58hunnit false. Maybe if all you’re doing is a small repair but when you go full rooms or just work in this industry; learn to wear a mask or be ready for a short lifespan full of breathing problems
2.5 million views and only 167 comments. Interesting. Anyhow, if you want to fix this problem, I suggest sloping your landscaping away from the building and making sure the rain gutters are piped to carry the water away from the house at least 10 feet (that's like 50 deciliters for you European types!). The problem is the settling, which is almost always due to water penetrating to the foundation. The crack is simply a symptom.
For a sharp eye that will definitely leave a visible bump. (For lack of a better word) I guess in this particular situation it is hard to see due to the convenient position of the crack, but on a flat wall this will be very visible.
These days, you have to come inwards 200mm (8 inches) from the edge of the door or windows to avoid this happening. It's a common problem in older houses.
To mention, a person can get away with this sequence of steps, unless the paint is a gloss or semi- gloss paint. In which case one should sand an area to each side of the Crack before doing ( scoring, digging into, or to say, opening the crack) work on the Crack. As some one mentioned, filling the now ' opened' Crack with compound( also called ' mud'), and then laying the tape( mesh) over the now ' mudded' Crack. And then do all the next steps. It's the way I learned. And it works. How long. Depends on a number of factors. But often years. In any case. Expect at some time later. It'll have to done again. ( Property vibrations, activities, just plain aging, will make it so.) Good luck
It's okay for American and Canadian house which are built using woods. Unnaceptable in most of the world (specially in Europe where the houses are totally built with concrete, cement and bricks. You can change the whole layout of american/Canadian homes within a couple of weeks. You can't change an European home as easy. Good vid though. Keep it up
Fix the foundation first to stop the settlement than do the cosmetic otherwise time after time it will reopen or close yes it is depends on the weather and soil condition I personalty prefer to silicon the hairline cracks and painted so it will allows the wall minor opening and closing muvements
spartacus455 does this actually work? I was thinking a flexible filler would be better for this reason, but then again, it could be too much flexing and the paint will still crack; or the result will not be smooth
As professional drywall finisher with several decades of experience, I'm going to make a couple suggestions.
There is a product available called Fibafuse, which is basically a stronger non adhesive fiberglass mesh tape. It is wafer-thin, and will hide easier than standard mesh tape. Can be embedded and coated in one process. As always, deep cracks should be pre-filled before application. I would also suggest feathering your mud 10 to 12 inches on each side of your tape. This will spread your high spot out over a larger area, making it less noticeable, something to be considered in critical lighting areas.
Excellent tip about pre priming before paint. Far too many do-it-yourselfers don't do this.
Hi! Can i use Dap Dry Dex Spackling on the fibafuse tape?
Thanks for the tips!
Dr@@babydoll8701 hZ!eA
pre filled with what tho ??
@@Doesitslap101
I prefer a setting-type compound, commonly referred to as "hot mud". It shrinks very little when mixed correctly, and will reduce the chances of stress cracking due to shrinkage of the tape applied over it. It is available at most home do-it-yourself stores. It comes in powdered form (bags), with varying setting times - 5 minute, 20 minute, 40 òr 45 minute, 90 minute, and even five-hour set times. For small patches, I prefer the five minute mud, as you don't have to wait for an extended period of time for it to set up. For the average do-it-yourselfer, I would recommend using 20 minute though, às the five-minute variety really does set up in five minutes. All of these compounds will begin to harden in the prescribed time frame, so you don't want to mix more than you can use in the allotted time. Small amounts are easily mixed in a standard mud pan. Add a small amount of powder, and stir with a 1 in to 1 and 1/2 inch putty knife, gradually adding water to the desired thickness. Drizzling from a spongewill allow you to control the amount of water you add and the rate at which you add it. Try to mix it to a good workable consistency.
Be sure to have a bucket of water and small kitchen scrubber sponge òr brush immediately available for cleanup. Try not to wait until the compound starts to harden before cleanup. If you decide to try and use it to coat fasteners and joints, make sure your work is clean and flat, as it does not sand easily. Your final coat should always be with a regular joint compound if you decide to go this route. Setting-type coumpounds contain a catalyst that will often burn through paint if not sealed with regular joint compound.
@@babydoll8701
I'm not familiar with that product, but based upon the consistency of the various spackling compounds that I have used, I would not recommend trying to embed fiba-fuse with it.
Thanks for sharing this. Gosh, I love the internet.
DIY stuff is actually fun when you can watch someone show you how to do it first. A "how to" video sinks into my brain much better than reading...at least for me.
Same here as most 'technical terms' become self-explanatory during the viewing.
Thank God for these videos that teach us how to do it ourselves! Was in the process of calling around to get bids to repair a few cracks Ive noticed in my 50s home. Thank goodness I remember to look on TH-cam which I have come to rely on for other do-it-yourself projects and tips! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you for this easy DIY video that just saved me over $150 in contract labor for less than $30 in supplies!!
I don’t sand patches like that at all. I use a damp sponge to feather it in. Works great and no dust! 👍🏻
Exactly what I wanted to watch, all these other videos with drilling screws , and painting first and expanding this and that and mixing their own blablabla la this was straight to the point and something a beginner can take pointers from .
I’m 35+ years in contracting experience. This video is spot on.
I gotta get this done before my dad gets home at 4
*RIP*
😆😆😆
Same
Are you still alive?
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I have been repairing and remodeling my home for 4 years now. This is the one problem I haven't managed to fix properly. Thank you, very much, for breaking that down into such easy steps ❤️
Very helpful video. I have had a problem with recurring cracks. Will try this technique.
Thank you for this very clear explanation of how to repair cracks in a dry wall.
good general idea, a Tip, cut the mesh tape narrow to one inch wide to make the repair smaller , two coats of compound should suffice with practice, mesh repairs can last a few years, and can also return if the wall is moving or shifting , but over all Good instructions , thanks for the tips!
3 Questions. 1) is it necessary to widen the crack? Why is that done? What is the purpose of widening the crack and does it matter if its a wide or small thin crack?
2) how much time do you need to wait before reapplying each coat of compound?
3) can you use any compound?
You were methodical in providing step by step instructions. Before and after pics would have made this vid perfect. Thanks for sharing.
Great awesome video!! Thanks so much, will be doing some drywall repairs this weekend
ken. that was excellent. easy,quick, and simple. thanks.
I was not aware of the tape used to fix the cracks - going to try this. Thanks for the info in your video.
Awesome video buddy! I have a settling house crack in my dining room for years... this video will surely help, can’t wait to fix it!!
Th best how to do video I have seen so far. Well done sir👍
Excellent explanation and demonstration On how to repair a crack in drywall.
hi your video is very helpful this will be my first settlement crack fix like yours question is ultra thin joint tape correct? and what type of primer is that you used in the purple can? thanks
Thanks and love your videos. Questions: Two areas on my ceiling seen to be too short an hangs down from the wood facing that goes the top wall. How do I correct that?
Wow this is so helpful to me as a new home owner that has to repair a dozen of these annoying wall cracks!
Bought my house as is too … but this looks like no problem now 😆
Fantastic DIY video - Thank you .
When I repair such A crack, I scrape the dried compound down to the underlying tape. Confirm there is A tape there & completely remove it if there is one. The seam may have cracked due to no tape being present or like he said due to the house shifting or settling. Scrape off the existing dried compound & tape to expose the screws near the seams' edge. It's very important to first of all check that that wall board is firmly attached, if any doubt add extra screws to both sides of the seam careful not to overtighten the screws through the first layer of drywall paper to give A secure hold but yet countersunk just enough to be covered by mud. Remove any loose drywall & screws as well. If A gap in the seam is present, fill it with A low shrinkage quick set fill such as sheetrock or prorock 20, 60 or 90 depending on how fast you wish for it to set up. 20 is 20 minutes, 60 is for 60 minutes, etc...this comes as A powder form & is to be mixed with water. It will even set under water & after cured isn't affected by water. Regular compound will often sag out of the seam before setting up & take a lot more time to dry thoroughly & shrink a lot more so I don't use it for the first filling unless I got a low shrinkage drywall compound & lots of time to wait for it to cure. I avoids the fiberglass tape because I've seen it crack many times & I've often repaired seams have that tape present. I prefer smooth paper tape over perforated tape on butt joints such as this too because the perforated tape have holes to help hold the compound but the punched out paper from these holes are still attached, stick off & show through the dried compound if you sand down too close to the tape & will appear through the painted surface as little dots. More mud is needed to cover this type of tape so I avoids using it when I can. The first coat of compound over existing paint usually is applied without trouble but as you will see the second coat will very often times bubble as the setting compound has reacted with the paints' chemicals & sometimes very badly. Just apply the compound & scape it all off if this happens. Reapply & when it bubbles again, scrape it all off again. This time in the opposite direction. Apply compound again & leave it to dry. Repeat like this on the next coats should bubbles continue to appear. They will lessen as your coats become thinner. You can also use just the quickset filler if it isn't too hard to sand in place of drywall compound for less bubbling due to it setting up faster having less time to be reacting with the paint, go with the 20 minute setting one. Always use A haf face respirator for mixing the powdered fillers & sanding & not the cheaper paper dust masks of any kind, that dust can cause asbestoses. You can get A vacumme sander outfit for a shop vac that you can use. Use 220 grit sanding screen using stroking motions at a 45 degree angle to avoid sanding streaks but I would use A finer sanding block on any walls that have sunshine for A much smoother finish & hold the vacume sander close to catch the fine dust. Also use the yellow fine dust bag in the vaccume, regular bags don't catch this fine dust & will circulate through the air & also harm your vacumes' motor.
I use a powdered quick dry (90) minute with a glue added. the glue allows for expansion and settleing. you do need the one quarter inch dug out. no taping required. I can't explain exactly how it works but it does.
Great tutorial. God, I wanted to see it (re)painted green and looking flawless. Might just be my OCD!
Mine too 😂😂🤘
Great job there Sir
Very helpful! Thank you very much for making this video
I was raised in the drywall and stucco business in South florida. I am myself a state licensed stucco, drywall and framing contractor. The truth is mesh tape is the best way to go for a crack. Problem is when you have a smooth finish if you sand too deep, that mesh will shine back through. Alot of times the joint is a bit high and even a true three coats still leave very little mud on top of the mesh. So even a light sanding will expose the mesh and when you paint it it sticks out like a sore thumb. If it's a smooth finish, instead of skip trowel or knockdown, then use paper tape. Make sure there is mud behind the paper tape and laid down tight against the wall. (No air bubbles behind the tape) Then a couple coats over top of the tape. Oh yeah, the trick to sanding a patch is to sand out your edges first, then lightly sand in circular motion the whole patch. Lightly.
When applying joint compound or any hot mud use tight coats and lay the edges down tight. People think sand paper will take care of a bunch of mud that was left all caked on. Don't make that mistake. You will be sanding a long time just to have to add more mud anyway. Multiple tight coats and light sand. That's what your looking for.
Perfect advice. Thanks.
I have had that problem before, I will always use paper tape where possible. I will always use paper tape on ceilings.
I believe that mesh tape should be used in conjunction with a fast setting joint compound.
Whatt if it'a recurring crack? Can you use DAP ElastoPatch? If so, do you still need to use fiberglass tape or does the ELasto
Patch suffice?
Thank you great video wish you would include instructions for textured walls, knockdown in particular. Thank you
Great -- clear and concise!
Is it okay to fill the crack with drywall compound, apply mesh tape, then apply drywall compound to cover the mesh tape?
Great video helped me a lot
very informative and interesting!
Just wondering why you would not fill the crack 1st with drywall joint compound. Then place the self adhesive tape over the dried joint compound. Then feather out the joint compound over that.
Excellent explanation..thanks
do you only put primer on the patched area? or do u do this on the entire wall that needs a new paint?
Great video 👍🏾
Hello, excellent video. But can you maybe create a video for those cracks that you keep hitting and hammering to find the dry sides of it and you end up with a big hole on the wall ?(haha). Well not a hole, but a big gap in the wall's plaster. How can that be repaired? Thanks for sharing your expertise with the world.
I've been finishing drywall for 30 years. the best way to fix a crack above a door or window is to cut out old tape and put some new nails in seam. the reason it cracked in the first place is because the hangers didn't put enough nails to begin with! and this guy needs to learn how to hold a finishing knife! half these videos I see on the internet of people doing drywall repairs have no idea what they are doing!
Two things. What primer did you use. I'll or water based?
And why didn't you show is end result.
Could it be that all that filling was noticeable.
Depends on the paint ur gonna use
can you list everything id need to do this? Its not really loading on my phone!
what about a sand texture on a ceiling ?
Good video! Do you tape every crack in ceilings and walls no matter the size and depth? thanks.
Yeah
Thank you; good video!
Should you also sand the primer a bit to make sure there aren't visible brush stroke ripples showing once the paint is applied and dry?
Best thing to do is to dab dab dab the primer with your paint brush. That will give that texture finish and you will never know once u put the final paint over it.
Great video
I would assume the same technique for a ceiling crack of this nature?
Great video 🔵👍🔵
good job
This technic works for plaster walls?
Does The mesch tape come off at any time ?
in the UK We use decorators caulk
it's flexible just sponge it in job done
Where that crack is I can almost guarantee that crack has reappeared since 2011. Being a stress-related crack it needs a stress control joint.What this guy has done would be a quick fix if you want to sell the property.
Hi guys how is the products called touPret TX140 for this kind of cracks ??
Wow, just a thin crack on the wall and looks like you were going to repaint the whole wall!! 😀🐩
thank you for very nice vid
It's all very well filling a crack that is straight, the cracks in my ceiling resemble a map and go through the coving.
The way I fix a crack over door is ,i cut old tape out ,its very easy ,pull old tape off replace with fast and float with hot mud and a tight skim and sand easy as pie.
Install a thin, maybe 1/4 inch drywall over the ceiling and finish as new construction!
I have the same problem in my MBR ceiling. It’s a very large bedroom and recovering the entire ceiling with 1/4’ drywall is not an option. Do you just cut the tape into short pieces and follow the cracks?
Good job
Finally a video that make sense.
It seems a lot of work for a crack, very time consuming. Is there a simpler way to patch the crack?
Good content.
I was watching this because in my apt my bathroom wall has a vertical crack from ceiling to floor, management here was told about it 8 months ago. But the real major problem in here is that whenever I try to clean the walls the paint comes right off. All the wall are white flat paint, anything that touches them transfers & leaves a mark. I've never had walls before where the paint came right off when cleaning it. I tried being gentle & it still comes off. If the wall gets slightly wet then it becomes almost pliable, if my fingernail accidentally touches it it leaves a permanent impression into the drywall......what in the world would cause this?? Is this from not priming? I used to own my own home for many years & never had this issue with flat paint. I have marks all over my walls from the slightest things & I can't wash the marks off the walls or else the paint comes off.
Thanks so much!
Gonna crack again.
Should do a patch extending 12" either side of the crack.
My windows have cracks around the caulking. Would this be the way to fix it? Would I have to take off the existing caulking?
Nope, you can't use this method. You need to cut out the existing caulking & replace. Depending on what the walls are made of and why the caulk has failed you may need to use caulking primer first.
@@wavemechanic4280 Thank you so much for your tip!
What about matching the texture?
Very helpful
Fixing cracks and the fine cracks found in some older homes.
Hey guys. I have been on many jobs with these crack issues and have seen both mesh and paper tape continue to fail and fail again. What I started doing several years ago that seems to work great as most of my customers are repeat. So I do not see any of these fail. weather its above a door or under a window, middle of wall. If its a stress crack, they just keep coming back as the foundation continues to move for whatever reason. What I do is remove the old tape and mud 2"s on both sides of the crack. Use some coarse screws on both sides making sure you are in the stud. Then I take some 20 and fill the area to just below the drywall edge. Now I use the 4"x4" mesh with the thin aluminum under it.Apply a thin coat of mud and put your 4"x4" patch on using as many as you need depending on how long the crack is. Then finish as you normally would. Then i apply 2 coats of primer and depend on the finish thats on the wall ie" home owner paint job or professional, if you know what I mean. Most home owners seem to put way to much paint on the wall. So if need be I will load my roller to match whats there to blend so you do not see that smooth patched area.
Now people that have maybe have a bit of an older home where you see alot of those hairline cracks all over the ceiling and walls. As long as its not at all loose I use a product called Mad Dog primer. Green label. And coat the area and prime with a quality latex primer and then your ready for finish coat. May require two coats of Mad Dog. Spreads nice and goes far. Just read the directions. Also a latex product.
Joe Lister. "Then I take some 20 and fill the area to just below the edge of the drywall" what do you mean by 20.
I will give your suggestion a shot and use some aluminum tape before mud and taping. Thanks for sharing
Joe Lister this seems interesting but I don't understand all the terms you use. Maybe some links to products or full names?
Didn't u put the linton up to the window and door?
Paint don't hide or fill in scratches from sanding. Keep and old sponge sanding block to buff out scratches.
We have cracks but they are only in the corner of the walls. It looks like the tape is separating from the dry wall. How do you fix it.
If someone gave you a good answer to this problem please share. I have the same problem. Seem's like everyone has different solutions and I am more confuse now than I was before I read all of this.
easy peasy. give a light scrap with the edge of your joint knife, down the corner crack.. then prime with paint on both sides of the corner.. for the plaster to stick well. then use paper tape and not that mesh tape to finish of the corner. (look on youtube how to tape corners) but if you wanted to try the super short cut? then...
very good but the mud layer will be very thin and the mesh me be exposed after paining
needed to show the finished result. i believe a noticeable bump would show. the crack needs to be treated like drywall butt joint. joint compound needs to go a lot further out to minimize the visibility of the bump because no matter what it is a bump. tapering about a foot to each side will make the seam (bump) invisible.
It's on the top hinge corner of the door... Let's get real, no one looks there and nobody is gonna notice.
But I bet you're one of those "professionals" who would completely gouge the customer for what you call proper.
@@tyrel6732 No, not a professional, but from experience. the 1st time I repaired a crack like that, and in pretty much the same manner you did, the bump was very noticeable due to how the light shown on the wall. so let's do get real, a lot of people do notice and more importantly I notice. If I do something I do it right the 1st time.
I also don't make stupid accusatory comments against someone because they said something contrary. I can give you a lollipop if that will make you feel better.
I got a great laugh reading all these comments.
this is nice! thank you!
Mesh tape has an annoying habit of losing its adhesion and buckling. If you really want to fix the crack, use paper (or solid) joint tape. And your patching margins need to be 10-12 inches on either side.
I would rip out your Fibre tape and lay in paper tape. Matching texture is always hard, You may try and patch it up yourself, fair enough. (trial and error) but I’d recommend hiring a texture man, to flush over ceiling and re texture whole ceiling as one, Texture sounds like it was either an air hopper spray gun or plaster flicked onto the ceiling then run over lightly with a trowel, Prime all plaster before applying texture, Hope this helps though and not to late..
Cheers Mike
a tip,, wear a dust mask while sanding ,,
Good point........and I am surprised that this gentleman did not wear any breathing protection when sanding.
its a pretty small area, he probably would if he was doing a full room
Because he's not a pussy.
Roger GOATdell #SuspenionMan #Rdeezy #58hunnit false. Maybe if all you’re doing is a small repair but when you go full rooms or just work in this industry; learn to wear a mask or be ready for a short lifespan full of breathing problems
Yes, that is exactly what I was thinking too.
good video
2.5 million views and only 167 comments. Interesting. Anyhow, if you want to fix this problem, I suggest sloping your landscaping away from the building and making sure the rain gutters are piped to carry the water away from the house at least 10 feet (that's like 50 deciliters for you European types!). The problem is the settling, which is almost always due to water penetrating to the foundation. The crack is simply a symptom.
Deciliters? ahahahahaha
Thank youuu
dam right my friend
is the crack cause by some earthquakes?
For a sharp eye that will definitely leave a visible bump. (For lack of a better word)
I guess in this particular situation it is hard to see due to the convenient position of the crack, but on a flat wall this will be very visible.
What about for a textured wall? All the videos online are flat walls. Also, you made the repair area 5 times larger 😂
Evil knevil would of loved that ramp 😳
🤣
flashing where I come from means something completely different
If it was boarded properly in the first place the crack wouldn't appear there. Never have a board joint up a door leg or along the door header.
These days, you have to come inwards 200mm (8 inches) from the edge of the door or windows to avoid this happening. It's a common problem in older houses.
does work
the best way to avoid this is not to have a joint above a door or window. I've been a drywall finisher for 20 years and the crack usually come back.
+scott campbell thats right.... making a butt joint above header is the worst hangers judgement call.
could of laid mesh
scott campbell would it help to use a flexible spackle?
yeah, your right, joint needs to come over more
could "have," not of. Sheesh.
Texture?
To mention, a person can get away with this sequence of steps, unless the paint is a gloss or semi- gloss paint. In which case one should sand an area to each side of the Crack before doing ( scoring, digging into, or to say, opening the crack) work on the Crack. As some one mentioned, filling the now ' opened' Crack with compound( also called ' mud'), and then laying the tape( mesh) over the now ' mudded' Crack. And then do all the next steps. It's the way I learned. And it works. How long. Depends on a number of factors. But often years.
In any case. Expect at some time later. It'll have to done again. ( Property vibrations, activities, just plain aging, will make it so.) Good luck
Doing right take time.
No showing of end product after painting??? Fail
My crack came back over the winter. What now?
I did this and it still ripped what next?
It's okay for American and Canadian house which are built using woods. Unnaceptable in most of the world (specially in Europe where the houses are totally built with concrete, cement and bricks. You can change the whole layout of american/Canadian homes within a couple of weeks. You can't change an European home as easy. Good vid though. Keep it up
how often do rly u get cracks in ur concrete??
Fix the foundation first to stop the settlement than do the cosmetic otherwise time after time it will reopen or close yes it is depends on the weather and soil condition I personalty prefer to silicon the hairline cracks and painted so it will allows the wall minor opening and closing muvements
spartacus455 does this actually work? I was thinking a flexible filler would be better for this reason, but then again, it could be too much flexing and the paint will still crack; or the result will not be smooth