I've seen a dozen of videos for learning how to repair plaster wall/ceiling cracks. This guy is the most experienced by far and his craftsmanship is really on another league. Very impressive.
There is nothing like watching a professional do a job, give his experience for commentary & see the finished product that you know will hold up. Great job & thank you for the lesson.
Hell yeah, finally someone doing a proper bed. This video deserves million of views. Most wackos on TH-cam don’t know what they are doing repairing cracks. Your a pro and it shows
I was in the painting business for 50 years. The one thing I would do differently is to cut out the crack into a V shape so that the plaster or spackling would be sure to fill the crack. I used paper tape but I suppose what was used in this video is better. I once repaired a long crack in a ceiling that had been repaired three times over the years and it always came back, but mine held.
I prepared the job site with plastic, then started to v shape, then, I prepared filled the crack, and 2 day's later, I mudded and tape the ceiling, then after a few days it was finished. three coats is what I had. I used Durobond. Anyway, the crack came back. I noticed the crack was all the way through the drywall. I had to use backer board. it worked. what a waste of time.
Durobond is just joint compound. I used to use Synkoloid spackling for the initial filling of the crack. It dries hard and much more durable. It sounds like whatever you patched is not secure and moves by contraction & expansion. If there is only a small movement, the new crack may develop behind the paper tape and you still won't see it, but no patching will hold big movements.
it is a foundation problem. for now I have it very secured. it's been about three weeks, I'm waiting to see what might happen. thanks for replying to Sir.
I do too if the board is loose, I’ll tap on it with a sideways fist if it’s moving all reattach, but if it’s solid, the plaster and fibafuse gets it done!
mesh tape has a purpose but it seems a lot of people think it's easier simply because it is self-adhesive. but it's actually 2x thicker than paper tape and makes you use a lot more mud. We used to use mesh tape when building portable buildings where you want to have flexibility, or on reoccurring cracks when using spackling.
Notice that he is using a bright light shining at an angle on his repair. This is major important. With the light, you are able to see every detail of the repair. Great video, I'm impressed.
I apprentice 45 years ago, Joe D. taught me how to sponge and skim. Well done. I thought I was watching myself work. I have no problem hiring you and know that it was correct.
Good job. Harbor freight hoppers do the job. I enjoy watching how everyone does it a little different. When I first started doing repair wok, I did'nt know what hot mud was. Boy, was it a game changer. In and out on repairs. Made alot of money just doing one repair a day!
I like to dig into the cracks to see whats really going on. Then ill add screws if needed to. Then ill scrape off all the tape and mud about 2.5 inches each side of crack (that allows my 4" knife to fit in) so i can prefill and retape then i fill it back up with multiple coats after it sets. Once its filled to the surface ill make sure to skim coat and feather out my edges with plus 3 and let dry overnight to cure correctly. Plus 3 makes it easier to sand and gives you a better finished product in my opinion
Sitting and watching people work now that you have retired is no different from what you probably did before you retired. I have had way too many encounters with so-called Los Angeles City Employees, that did not do their jobs, however, they still got their pensions. Whereas the man in this video works for himself and cannot afford to sit back on his laurels, because he has not got the luxury of a "city pension".
I've switched to nothing about fibafuse for all my flats. I always put screws in just as an insurance policy. If you haven't bought one of the big 36-in rolls and cut it down for patches yet you should do it. Life changing. Well. Maybe not life-changing but pretty good for those fist size or baseball size type holes. I used to do calli patches but now that I have that big fibafuse I would rather do that with a little bit of backing way easier much tighter.
Sweet ,,those hoppers use a lot of air ,more than a pancake compressor can handle causing a continues drop in pressure hence a different texture pattern ,,those patch jobs are tricky in the middle of the wall like that for obvious reasons ,,nice job.
I used the square mesh tape a couple of weeks ago, and finished things up with little to no talent . It is Ok, for the garage. What I had was 67 years of ugly to repair. This cat is damn good with everything. Much as I was jealous I did like and subscribe. Thanks bro... I can do better.
Scott, nice video. I scanned the comments and did not see a response on the "cheesing" over glossy paints. Flat paints are very water permeable, thus not used in "wet" areas. Glossy paints help keep the water from penetrating. When you mud over flat paint you get some drying and setting on the back side locking the mud to the surface. When on glossy paint the area contacting the wall does not dry at all and has not bonded. When you work the top it will break free and you will get the "cheesing" affect. We also see more tiny air bubbles on glossy walls. Best wishes from Az.
If at all possible I will dig the old tape out, if it doesn't come I will scrape the texture off for less buildup a little more work but comes out nice with less floating
I’m in 100% agreement! The only way you could use fiba fuse in a corner is if you very meticulously put it in there and then rolled it with an angle roller. Most of what I do is repair work and if it’s a flat joint I use fiba fuse… Hope you have a great new year!
@@scottssheetrockservices you too. Its odd though, you know before they used to sell FibaFuse with the center crease and you can fold it in half and use in corners, but now they only produce fibafuse with no crease at all. I wonder why? i know you COULD use for corners but maybe too many complaints?
Great video... How about showing a house that is 30 years old with Paper Taped Corners that are all cracked and Peeling.... Only the taped Corners throughout the entire house or cracking and delaminating.... This would be a great video!... Many elderly homeowners I talk to have this problem... Thanks!
DIYer here. Started using Fibafuse exclusively. Contractor use mesh tape for repairs, which did not hold up. The tape separated at the crack leaving rough glass fibers. Repaired with Fibafuse and it looks great. I have several 8’ long, straight cracks in a ceiling where the wallboard panels meet (cracks appeared after 15 years perhaps due to foundation settlement/separating). I plan on creating a “V”, adding screws on each side of the crack and repairing with Fibafuse. Does this sound like the right approach?
Yeah, check and see if there’s any sheet rock loose along the studs and re-screw one or two on each side of the seam if it’s regular joint tape, I prefer to remove the tape rather than cut the sheet rock personally, and with the fiba tape as long as the seam is not very tight I don’t cut into it personally. Don’t need to necessarily cut a V just a slice in it. Floats camera texture. Hope this helps!
hey Scott, thanks for the very informative video, never had ever seen a sponge used in this way! Subscribed! Do you plan on showing how to use skimming blades? tip and tricks maybe?
Cracks are caused by movement of the sheetrock. You should have used some nails or screws before taping. I like watching other experienced drywallers. Never to old to learn. Great video.
Exactly what I do. Always use screws around the crack and surrounding area. V out crack. Prefill and use paper tape. Cracks comes back after that you've got bigger problems.
Fiber fuse is good but the new diagonal mesh is better, it has extras strands to prevent racking. The reason you lean toward mesh in the first place is thickness it a butt joint so huge tapers are needed.
even if it is, it doesn't change how you coat the joint or repair. fibafuse is thinner than paper, especially considering it is embedded in the jc@@markhuru
@@dUsTysCaTmAn the fact that you can just stick the tape on gives good quality mesh the advantage, cuts easily it’s thinner, I still use durabond or quick mud first coat.
I use the same material, same technique, except dig out and peal the original tape of so its not a mountain. Taping over texture is adding an easy 1/8 of an inch.
Of all the videos I've seen this is the most thorough. Truly appreciate the craftsmanship and completeness. One question I have - if we are a DIYer and we have plenty of time to wait for it to dry and are able to sand, are there any steps here that we can cut out, or is there anything that we should be doing differently?
Yes, of course you can use regular mud I try not to use lightweight however the +3 that I use is a midweight and it works well for all applications. Just need to make sure each coat is dry prior to texturing including the tape Coat hope this helps
That may be true.. however what mud is used on the ones that I repair is unbenounced to me. I know you don’t have that problem with fiba fuse using regular mud
You are doing drywall finishing correctly. Most do not. Bucket mud has no business being on your first 2 coats and is the rookie way of doing it. Always use quickset 45 for tape/block and then skim with your premixed.@@ebk6257
Except mesh tape is fine if used with the proper mud and it's not weaker than paper tape paper tape just does a better job hiding the crack when it happens.
The type of tape used is determined by the type of mud used. Mesh tape was designed to be used with quicksetting mud. Also, the type of crack an reason for crack should also determine the type of mud an tape used. This type of cracking looks like faulty taping an finishing from original finishing. I agree with some of the comments about creating a v groove for mud to bond.
This works so long as it is not in an area where the su face will not receive any impact/movement. Did a test patch at home about 3 years ago and it finally failed a few weeks back. I do a lot of plaster repairs and wanted to test it.
Great knife work. However that seems like an awful lot of mud to repair such a thin crack. Does that not create a large high spot on the wall? Or can you not see it when it is done?
Butt Joint is the 4 foot side of sheet rock does not have a recessed edge it has to be busted out… But to answer your question no you can’t see it when it’s done
Unfortunately there's no easy answer. If it'sa previously painted popcorn ceiling or a rougher stucco ceiling and you don't want to do a major repair, I've used elastomeric silicone. Just apply a thin bead over the crack and use you finger to smooth it over the crack. Then paint when it's dry. Elastomeric remains flexible for a long time and should help in mitigating further cracks returning. The other option involves scrapping and alot of work Unfortunately.
Sometimes you can see a hint of it through the mud as the float coat and skim coat are two different colors of mud. We painted next day, and it was beautiful!
OK, you have a good critical eye. Maybe it was the lighting and it did show a shadow at the butt which it usually does if you don't pull the butt with a wide knife or trowel.
So much work. But it looks beautiful. I thought he was done after the first rake. And then he applied a whole new layer of mud over the top. Why that second coat? When it looked done after the first full coat and rake.
I’m only 30 years in… I agree with hot mud you can make it work. My videos are more geared towards DIY folks who try to use self adhesive mesh tape with regular mud and I’ve literally fixed thousands of cracks even done by professionals with mesh tape, probably with regular mud, have a great Christmas!
I used fiba tape for the first time because of your video. I like the way it lays and covers however I couldn't figure out why my hands felt like fiber glass was all over them. Haha. Didn't enjoy that part.
You can use the +3 for the entire repair. You’ll just have to wait in between every coat for it to dry. And you won’t be able to rake your lap marks out you’ll have to sand in between coats
15:17 man, your compressor connection is leaking air. and no mask? that's not professional. If you are using a spray gun or spray paint, you need to be wearing at least a dust mask or respirator if it involves any organic fumes.
thnx; is that about 1/8 inch on first and 2nd coats? I know skim coat is about 1/16th or less, right? Thnx for your excellent video!@@scottssheetrockservices
@@DJazzy1 that be a good estimate on thickness it’s really a feel with your knife, making sure you’re floating over the joint thick enough to cover it and then yes, skim coat is real tight basically just staining it assuming you have enough mud on your float coat
Besides a lot of extra work, does it cause a problem to cut out the paper on each side of the crack, shave down the drywall, bury the tape, and then mud over it so you end up with a flush patch instead of a huge area to feather out?
Time is money on my world any butt joint that you have nine out of 10 of them you have to put 24 inches of mud on anyway we never make things level. We just give the appearance that it is that would seem like a lot of extra work to me that’s just my opinion…
@@scottssheetrockservices It is a lot more work but I'm an amateur and can't float out a high spot, it ends up looking like a blob on the wall. I just did a patch and cut out the paper on the perimeter and then buried the tape and then made it flat to the existing wall. It worked really good but was a ton of work. Do you think the seams will crack doing it this way?
@@petebusch9069 if you’re using five fuse and allowing whatever mud you’re using to dry completely prior, I think it’ll be fine I would suggest to maybe tape one more piece of tape on each outside edge of your first piece to ensure everything is covered but I guess that should work for you with the right mud and drying time
With a heavy texture, you can get away with one coat. If you have it raked out nice and smooth but with a lighter texture, you want to put a tight skim on it just to fill any pit holes or variations in the mud.
The mix consist of plaster of Paris that you mix in powder form with water in your pan to about a syrup or maybe a little thicker consistency and an add about 2 1/2 scoops of mud with your 6 inch knife trick is you have to mix very thoroughly depending on what mud you use 7 to 10 minutes and it’s hard. I personally use USG +3.
Where did you get that cheap mesh missing rows of fiber? I used fiberglass tape for years and have never seen anything like that but I always shopped at drywall or paint shops that carry the better stuff. You got it at wal mart right ?
So when I use fibafuse I use plaster which is the hardest drying mud known to the planet earth! So in my experience I would say it will last longer than any other tape for sure if you have major foundational problems at some point it may come back through but it will have a tough time doing so
There is a product called 'Straight-Flex Crack-Tape' by Clark Dietrich, that is geared more towards structural issues i.e. truss uplift. Of course there are going to be limits, but I have used it for several trouble jobs with success, no recracking to date... and in a State that has the full four season temperature and humidy variations. Inattentive framers can leave framing poorly attached. If you find the wall or ceiling framing moving quite a bit, I have been able to secure it better by using 3-1/2" screws, going at an angle thru the drywall, to secure the stud to the top, bottom plate, joist or rim, (depending on the situation). Also, I am finding more on repair jobs, that the original drywall installers are over driving screws (especially on the seams) and not fixing it, thus causing loose seems and cracks in a short time. So, there is usually a need to secure drywall again in any repair... or at least assume that you will need to do this. Telling this to the customer up front, will prepare them for extra costs if found to be the case, saving you a hassle.
@@TobiasRaphael1 Thank you for that recommendation! I used fibafuse and it hairline cracked again unfortunately. Will try the product you suggest here. Thank you!
I've seen a dozen of videos for learning how to repair plaster wall/ceiling cracks. This guy is the most experienced by far and his craftsmanship is really on another league. Very impressive.
I love watching pros that know their work, demonstrate their work. Beautiful job !
There is nothing like watching a professional do a job, give his experience for commentary & see the finished product that you know will hold up. Great job & thank you for the lesson.
This guy is the REAL DEAL -- great work -- BRAVO!
Hell yeah, finally someone doing a proper bed. This video deserves million of views. Most wackos on TH-cam don’t know what they are doing repairing cracks. Your a pro and it shows
Truly an experienced hand, a pleasure to watch someone work who knows exactly what they're doing...
I was in the painting business for 50 years. The one thing I would do differently is to cut out the crack into a V shape so that the plaster or spackling would be sure to fill the crack. I used paper tape but I suppose what was used in this video is better. I once repaired a long crack in a ceiling that had been repaired three times over the years and it always came back, but mine held.
I agree, I had to fix 2 window seam cracks the homeowner had used Bondo to "fix", I was taught to cut out a V as well. I hate mesh tape.
I prepared the job site with plastic, then started to v shape, then, I prepared filled the crack, and 2 day's later, I mudded and tape the ceiling, then after a few days it was finished. three coats is what I had. I used Durobond. Anyway, the crack came back. I noticed the crack was all the way through the drywall. I had to use backer board. it worked. what a waste of time.
Durobond is just joint compound. I used to use Synkoloid spackling for the initial filling of the crack. It dries hard and much more durable. It sounds like whatever you patched is not secure and moves by contraction & expansion. If there is only a small movement, the new crack may develop behind the paper tape and you still won't see it, but no patching will hold big movements.
it is a foundation problem. for now I have it very secured. it's been about three weeks, I'm waiting to see what might happen. thanks for replying to Sir.
thanks for replying to me Sir.
I also always check for flex in the joint and add screws in the studs which I find is normally needed.
I do too if the board is loose, I’ll tap on it with a sideways fist if it’s moving all reattach, but if it’s solid, the plaster and fibafuse gets it done!
mesh tape has a purpose but it seems a lot of people think it's easier simply because it is self-adhesive. but it's actually 2x thicker than paper tape and makes you use a lot more mud. We used to use mesh tape when building portable buildings where you want to have flexibility, or on reoccurring cracks when using spackling.
For quick jobs where client is living in the home your working in this approach is absolutely appropriate...no sand no dust
Yessir!!!!
I'd never heard of FibaFuse until this video. Thanks for the tip!
You can get it in large sheets too . Excellent product .
Notice that he is using a bright light shining at an angle on his repair. This is major important. With the light, you are able to see every detail of the repair. Great video, I'm impressed.
Best video I have seen in regards to technique on applying mud and the WHY they do it that way.
From Holland - enjoyed watching this, loved the skills and the total control on the process.
I apprentice 45 years ago, Joe D. taught me how to sponge and skim. Well done. I thought I was watching myself work.
I have no problem hiring you and know that it was correct.
Good job. Harbor freight hoppers do the job. I enjoy watching how everyone does it a little different. When I first started doing repair wok, I did'nt know what hot mud was. Boy, was it a game changer. In and out on repairs. Made alot of money just doing one repair a day!
The money making mud!
Had Scott do some work in my house last year in Katy and he did an awesome job. About to call him for more.
This dude is an ACE.
I like to dig into the cracks to see whats really going on. Then ill add screws if needed to. Then ill scrape off all the tape and mud about 2.5 inches each side of crack (that allows my 4" knife to fit in) so i can prefill and retape then i fill it back up with multiple coats after it sets. Once its filled to the surface ill make sure to skim coat and feather out my edges with plus 3 and let dry overnight to cure correctly. Plus 3 makes it easier to sand and gives you a better finished product in my opinion
Excellent skills and thanks for the tip on the fiber tape
As a retired City of Los Angeles employee, I can watch people work all day.
Enjoy your retirement!!!
Hopefully not in Los Angeles
Sitting and watching people work now that you have retired is no different from what you probably did before you retired. I have had way too many encounters with so-called Los Angeles City Employees, that did not do their jobs, however, they still got their pensions. Whereas the man in this video works for himself and cannot afford to sit back on his laurels, because he has not got the luxury of a "city pension".
I love that fibafuse tape!
Dudes an artist
I've switched to nothing about fibafuse for all my flats. I always put screws in just as an insurance policy. If you haven't bought one of the big 36-in rolls and cut it down for patches yet you should do it. Life changing. Well. Maybe not life-changing but pretty good for those fist size or baseball size type holes. I used to do calli patches but now that I have that big fibafuse I would rather do that with a little bit of backing way easier much tighter.
Sweet ,,those hoppers use a lot of air ,more than a pancake compressor can handle causing a continues drop in pressure hence a different texture pattern ,,those patch jobs are tricky in the middle of the wall like that for obvious reasons ,,nice job.
Great video. Very informative. Subscribed.
New subscriber here. I enjoyed this video. This is artistry for sure
I used the square mesh tape a couple of weeks ago, and finished things up with little to no talent . It is Ok, for the garage. What I had was 67 years of ugly to repair. This cat is damn good with everything. Much as I was jealous I did like and subscribe. Thanks bro... I can do better.
I only use mesh tape if I use fast setting joint compound. I sets harder than ready mix.
Scott, nice video. I scanned the comments and did not see a response on the "cheesing" over glossy paints. Flat paints are very water permeable, thus not used in "wet" areas. Glossy paints help keep the water from penetrating. When you mud over flat paint you get some drying and setting on the back side locking the mud to the surface. When on glossy paint the area contacting the wall does not dry at all and has not bonded. When you work the top it will break free and you will get the "cheesing" affect. We also see more tiny air bubbles on glossy walls. Best wishes from Az.
I just tried fibafuse for the first time the other day. That stuff is a good product
If at all possible I will dig the old tape out, if it doesn't come I will scrape the texture off for less buildup a little more work but comes out nice with less floating
i love FIbafuse! the only thing i use, EXCEPT corners since paper is easier to crease and mud
I’m in 100% agreement! The only way you could use fiba fuse in a corner is if you very meticulously put it in there and then rolled it with an angle roller. Most of what I do is repair work and if it’s a flat joint I use fiba fuse… Hope you have a great new year!
@@scottssheetrockservices you too. Its odd though, you know before they used to sell FibaFuse with the center crease and you can fold it in half and use in corners, but now they only produce fibafuse with no crease at all. I wonder why? i know you COULD use for corners but maybe too many complaints?
@@bludika probably
I appreciate your skills, Sir. Also love your accent; great voice.
Coat of SBR, scrim tape the joints/ cracks, two coats of thistle multifinish, job done.
Art work and real craftmanship
great GREAT tips. good to see a real pro working at his best.
Great video... How about showing a house that is 30 years old with Paper Taped Corners that are all cracked and Peeling.... Only the taped Corners throughout the entire house or cracking and delaminating.... This would be a great video!... Many elderly homeowners I talk to have this problem... Thanks!
Excellent tutorial. I’m new at it and you’re very helpful. I’ll most likely watch it again and maybe again !👌👍🙏
I have no words great job guys!!!
HIghly technical and incredible skills. If you know what to see; it's here!
Yessir!!
I need you at my house for all the work I need done. Thanks for the tips in that video.
I have been using fibafuse tape for years and and it is the only tape that I use
An artist at work!
Well done guys, you know your stuff.
We use 5 minute mud also....🤣 wouldn't have it any other way.... good video brother, Southern Style keep it rolling brother 👍
DIYer here. Started using Fibafuse exclusively. Contractor use mesh tape for repairs, which did not hold up. The tape separated at the crack leaving rough glass fibers. Repaired with Fibafuse and it looks great.
I have several 8’ long, straight cracks in a ceiling where the wallboard panels meet (cracks appeared after 15 years perhaps due to foundation settlement/separating). I plan on creating a “V”, adding screws on each side of the crack and repairing with Fibafuse. Does this sound like the right approach?
Yeah, check and see if there’s any sheet rock loose along the studs and re-screw one or two on each side of the seam if it’s regular joint tape, I prefer to remove the tape rather than cut the sheet rock personally, and with the fiba tape as long as the seam is not very tight I don’t cut into it personally. Don’t need to necessarily cut a V just a slice in it. Floats camera texture. Hope this helps!
Great tips, thanks for sharing.
Just the facts, man. Thanks and nice job!
Nice work. The only thing I would consider is priming the area before spackling over, and repainting the whole wall. Thanks for sharing!
hey Scott, thanks for the very informative video, never had ever seen a sponge used in this way! Subscribed! Do you plan on showing how to use skimming blades? tip and tricks maybe?
Cracks are caused by movement of the sheetrock. You should have used some nails or screws before taping. I like watching other experienced drywallers. Never to old to learn. Great video.
Exactly what I do. Always use screws around the crack and surrounding area. V out crack. Prefill and use paper tape. Cracks comes back after that you've got bigger problems.
Fiber fuse is good but the new diagonal mesh is better, it has extras strands to prevent racking.
The reason you lean toward mesh in the first place is thickness it a butt joint so huge tapers are needed.
have a hard time believing any type of mesh tape would be better than fibafuse. diagonal is better than standard mesh for sure
@@dUsTysCaTmAn thinner is better fiber fuse is too thick
even if it is, it doesn't change how you coat the joint or repair. fibafuse is thinner than paper, especially considering it is embedded in the jc@@markhuru
@@dUsTysCaTmAn the fact that you can just stick the tape on gives good quality mesh the advantage, cuts easily it’s thinner, I still use durabond or quick mud first coat.
@@markhurumesh is for people which like to cut corners
Beautiful job man! I love a good-looking repair. : )
I use the same material, same technique, except dig out and peal the original tape of so its not a mountain. Taping over texture is adding an easy 1/8 of an inch.
Great video. Thanks guys.
Of all the videos I've seen this is the most thorough. Truly appreciate the craftsmanship and completeness. One question I have - if we are a DIYer and we have plenty of time to wait for it to dry and are able to sand, are there any steps here that we can cut out, or is there anything that we should be doing differently?
Yes, of course you can use regular mud I try not to use lightweight however the +3 that I use is a midweight and it works well for all applications. Just need to make sure each coat is dry prior to texturing including the tape Coat hope this helps
Thanks so much for the feedback. Hope I can get mine looking as good as yours.
A great video, Scott! Thanks for sharing! I love learning new tips for drywall repair- it's one of my fave things to do.
Thanks for watching and Happy Thanksgiving!!
Some say mesh tape only fails when you use joint compound rather than hot mud to set it.
That may be true.. however what mud is used on the ones that I repair is unbenounced to me. I know you don’t have that problem with fiba fuse using regular mud
100% mesh has not failed me when I patch, but I always Hot mud then top with all purpose
You are doing drywall finishing correctly. Most do not. Bucket mud has no business being on your first 2 coats and is the rookie way of doing it. Always use quickset 45 for tape/block and then skim with your premixed.@@ebk6257
@ebk6257 is correct! Pre fill and cover with hot mud then finish with all purpose compound! Never had a problem! 😎
I put a son through college fixing mesh tape . Fibafuse is excellent . It comes in large sheets too .
Yeah, you right… I have heard about the sheets, but never have used them yet, friend of mine in Louisiana uses it
Mesh is not weaker than paper tape people just don't use the right mud or do proper prep when using it, paper only hides the crack better
i recomed to use some extra scres add to where the cracks are work better ..
I only use mesh tape. Here in Alaska we have a lot of settling and paper just doesn’t work as well for this environment
Try the fiber fuse it’s much better stronger and easier to deal with than mesh tape supposedly 80% stronger than paper.
Brilliant!
Pay attention DIYers....a real Professional giving today's lesson
Except mesh tape is fine if used with the proper mud and it's not weaker than paper tape paper tape just does a better job hiding the crack when it happens.
@@AndrewB23 and he used over a tub full of mud for a tiny crack. Not impressed. Just sayin
The type of tape used is determined by the type of mud used. Mesh tape was designed to be used with quicksetting mud. Also, the type of crack an reason for crack should also determine the type of mud an tape used. This type of cracking looks like faulty taping an finishing from original finishing. I agree with some of the comments about creating a v groove for mud to bond.
Smart man, outstanding.
This works so long as it is not in an area where the su face will not receive any impact/movement. Did a test patch at home about 3 years ago and it finally failed a few weeks back. I do a lot of plaster repairs and wanted to test it.
Appreciate this video, would you recommend using this tape on a ceiling crack as well???
Yes, it’s good for anything except an inside 90° angle but yes, crack in ceiling or walls. It’s beautiful!
Great knife work. However that seems like an awful lot of mud to repair such a thin crack. Does that not create a large high spot on the wall? Or can you not see it when it is done?
Butt Joint is the 4 foot side of sheet rock does not have a recessed edge it has to be busted out… But to answer your question no you can’t see it when it’s done
good watch, i enjoyed it
I used that tape Friday to fix cracks in drywall, love that tape!
I will find some and buy....
Thank you for explaining.
Best explanation of how to do it that I have seen. Thanks
I used mesh tape to fix mine and it worked great.
How do you fix the cracks in the ceiling when the ceilings are coated knockdown?
Unfortunately there's no easy answer. If it'sa previously painted popcorn ceiling or a rougher stucco ceiling and you don't want to do a major repair, I've used elastomeric silicone. Just apply a thin bead over the crack and use you finger to smooth it over the crack. Then paint when it's dry.
Elastomeric remains flexible for a long time and should help in mitigating further cracks returning. The other option involves scrapping and alot of work Unfortunately.
Would like to see how to match a dauber (stipel) texture.
There’s all kinds of different terms for different textures that have to see a picture of what you’re talking about
Cutting a v groove ? What about all the screws that are stagged along seems to hold drywall ?
Finally, someone who hates mesh as much as i do! I rarely use tape on seams or corners....its all about that mud work.
Was it only me that could still see the tape line after he finished with all the mud?
Sometimes you can see a hint of it through the mud as the float coat and skim coat are two different colors of mud. We painted next day, and it was beautiful!
Always a smart a$$ in the bunch. You do better & then we will talk
If you can spackle you can use mesh
OK, you have a good critical eye. Maybe it was the lighting and it did show a shadow at the butt which it usually does if you don't pull the butt with a wide knife or trowel.
It’s the lighting , it all disappears when you primer and paint.
Good video, I learned some new stuff. I think, though, I would have sprayed the whole wall, just to get a similar texture.
So much work. But it looks beautiful. I thought he was done after the first rake. And then he applied a whole new layer of mud over the top. Why that second coat? When it looked done after the first full coat and rake.
Just to touch up any pit holes scratches and insure you have a smooth finish before texture…
ive always seen people use durabond with fibafuse not plaster of paris i wonder what the difference is
I've been drywalling for 48 years I pre-filled cracks and I use mesh tape with 3M 90 adhesive then I will guarantee the job for many years
I’m only 30 years in… I agree with hot mud you can make it work. My videos are more geared towards DIY folks who try to use self adhesive mesh tape with regular mud and I’ve literally fixed thousands of cracks even done by professionals with mesh tape, probably with regular mud, have a great Christmas!
@@scottssheetrockservicesSherwin Williams sales a mesh tape that is more tightly woven that I have used for years with no problems
Over lap the cheaper mesh and it will hold, oh I've been doing drywall for over 40 years
I used fiba tape for the first time because of your video. I like the way it lays and covers however I couldn't figure out why my hands felt like fiber glass was all over them. Haha. Didn't enjoy that part.
Well you make that look easy as all get out !!
Sort of sorry I watched this video , now I know how much I suck.
Practice makes perfect!
Could you use the Plus 3 for the entire repair? or is that not strong enough? I learned a lot from this video!
You can use the +3 for the entire repair. You’ll just have to wait in between every coat for it to dry. And you won’t be able to rake your lap marks out you’ll have to sand in between coats
I love fibafuse but its hard on angles because when you use a knife it cuts the fibafuse. I still use paper on corners.
Same here. I only use it on flats I’ve been told you can use it with a Glazer and a bazooka if you remove the sharp tip and just roll it.
Great video… whats the name of the mud we purchase at the local hardware called
The more I use in this video is USG +3 it’s better than the green box. I would suggest it over any other USG brand.
The mud I use
15:17 man, your compressor connection is leaking air. and no mask? that's not professional. If you are using a spray gun or spray paint, you need to be wearing at least a dust mask or respirator if it involves any organic fumes.
warning ⚠️⚠️ surgeon at work ❤
thanks I learned a lot, sorry Canada guy
Nice video; thnx. How thick are your finish drywall compound coats?
First coat, float coat, is the thickest to leave enough mud to give the illusion of leveling the butt joint. Skim coat is wax on wax off real tight.
thnx; is that about 1/8 inch on first and 2nd coats? I know skim coat is about 1/16th or less, right? Thnx for your excellent video!@@scottssheetrockservices
@@DJazzy1 that be a good estimate on thickness it’s really a feel with your knife, making sure you’re floating over the joint thick enough to cover it and then yes, skim coat is real tight basically just staining it assuming you have enough mud on your float coat
Thanks; appreciate your time and expertise. I'll review your video again for nuances. Have a good week. @@scottssheetrockservices
If you don't believe these DWall guys are worth every penny, grab your diy tools and have at it.
It's not hard it just takes patience to learn
😂 yooo I’m with professor on this
Another great video and well explain.
I think I'll hire it done.😊
Besides a lot of extra work, does it cause a problem to cut out the paper on each side of the crack, shave down the drywall, bury the tape, and then mud over it so you end up with a flush patch instead of a huge area to feather out?
Time is money on my world any butt joint that you have nine out of 10 of them you have to put 24 inches of mud on anyway we never make things level. We just give the appearance that it is that would seem like a lot of extra work to me that’s just my opinion…
@@scottssheetrockservices It is a lot more work but I'm an amateur and can't float out a high spot, it ends up looking like a blob on the wall. I just did a patch and cut out the paper on the perimeter and then buried the tape and then made it flat to the existing wall. It worked really good but was a ton of work. Do you think the seams will crack doing it this way?
@@petebusch9069 if you’re using five fuse and allowing whatever mud you’re using to dry completely prior, I think it’ll be fine I would suggest to maybe tape one more piece of tape on each outside edge of your first piece to ensure everything is covered but I guess that should work for you with the right mud and drying time
How come a skim coat is needed after the plaster of paris? Is it because the plaster won't be smooth enough for paint to stick on?
With a heavy texture, you can get away with one coat. If you have it raked out nice and smooth but with a lighter texture, you want to put a tight skim on it just to fill any pit holes or variations in the mud.
What kind of mud you use and set time? I need to buy to repair mines.
The mix consist of plaster of Paris that you mix in powder form with water in your pan to about a syrup or maybe a little thicker consistency and an add about 2 1/2 scoops of mud with your 6 inch knife trick is you have to mix very thoroughly depending on what mud you use 7 to 10 minutes and it’s hard. I personally use USG +3.
Where did you get that cheap mesh missing rows of fiber? I used fiberglass tape for years and have never seen anything like that but I always shopped at drywall or paint shops that carry the better stuff. You got it at wal mart right ?
If you’re talking about the fibra fuse? It’s not cheap… I don’t use regular mesh tape on anything from anywhere
Mesh tape is solid lmao learn to use it though didn’t watch to see if it has a use case here but still
Will fibafuse prevent cracking even with structural issues in your experience?
So when I use fibafuse I use plaster which is the hardest drying mud known to the planet earth! So in my experience I would say it will last longer than any other tape for sure if you have major foundational problems at some point it may come back through but it will have a tough time doing so
@@scottssheetrockservices Great answer, thanks Scott! I’ll give it my best go.
There is a product called 'Straight-Flex Crack-Tape' by Clark Dietrich, that is geared more towards structural issues i.e. truss uplift. Of course there are going to be limits, but I have used it for several trouble jobs with success, no recracking to date... and in a State that has the full four season temperature and humidy variations.
Inattentive framers can leave framing poorly attached. If you find the wall or ceiling framing moving quite a bit, I have been able to secure it better by using 3-1/2" screws, going at an angle thru the drywall, to secure the stud to the top, bottom plate, joist or rim, (depending on the situation). Also, I am finding more on repair jobs, that the original drywall installers are over driving screws (especially on the seams) and not fixing it, thus causing loose seems and cracks in a short time. So, there is usually a need to secure drywall again in any repair... or at least assume that you will need to do this. Telling this to the customer up front, will prepare them for extra costs if found to be the case, saving you a hassle.
@@TobiasRaphael1 Thank you for that recommendation! I used fibafuse and it hairline cracked again unfortunately. Will try the product you suggest here. Thank you!