The fuck with that bolt man! Tee hee hee hee! :) (seriously though - that bolt TUV'ed? :P) Hey - I think you've been told 119 times about that damned bolt....)
I no others have commented about the bolt your going to use there are all correct. But the bolt you have will not have enough tensile strength for the application your gonna use it for. It could snap as well as allow the ball joint to pull past like someone else mentioned. Sorry for the geeky comment just don’t want anyone to get hurt 👍🏻
True. The standard bolt sits in the ball joint groove. That bolt will wear on the threads and weve all seen cars at the side of the road with wheels nearly snapped of caused by that pinch bolt type failure.
Warning! Do not use that bolt! For an application like that you need a shanked bolt. I.e. one that is not threaded all the way. The shanked part is what sits in the groove on the ball joint. Using an all threaded bolt will not hold for long and the ball joint can and will pull past the threads. Ask me how I know! 😂
ABS light will be because you had wheel speed on the front wheels but not rears, need to clear the abs module dtc's. Don't forget to program the electric windows by motoring them fully down then fully up, once they are up, wait for them to make a small noise then you will regain one touch up and down 👍👍
I have the Z18XER and plan in doing the clutch. Im going to get the gearbox serviced as hard to change sometimes. Your video was great and really helpful. Keep up the good work
I haven't watched the previous videos but having spend many unhappy hours trying to line up gearboxes to mate them to the engine some wise old sage suggested obtaining two bellhousing bolts, cutting the heads off and screw them in to the block. As long as the clutch is lined up correctly you can simply slide the gearbox straight on to block.
Really enjoyed this series buddy. Great job and nice back tracking with the power steering. I sub’d years ago when you were doing tool reviews. Glad the channel is getting the subs it deserves.
Really informative video. Deffinately agree about pressure bleeding systems, although I like to attach a clear hose to the nipple to watch till the fluid comes through bubble free - also, it helps collect the waste. To refill the gear oil, there is a cheap (£15 ish) fluid transfer pump which makes filling a doddle.
Hi When I dropoed subframe on my transit connect I used stud iron then lowered and raised it with a spanner. Takes a bit longer but easier when you are by yourself. Great video series really enjoyed watching.
Good job , always like watching your vids James😎 Mind you: working on cars is a never ending learning voyage....even after 44,5 years...I still discovers new things🙄
On Fords and Nissans (probably most gearboxes) you actually fill it through the inspection bolt hole until it comes out. 75w80 is the good stuff, and it smells like some kind of toxic waste! For some reason some cars recommend 75w90 which just gets too thick below 5 degrees (in the winter)
Good work james. Will need to get car tracked after removing that subframe .Vauxhall use a special jig to align the subframe you just took it out and bolted it back without marking the alignment. Great job though on doing it on driveway.
Very well done!!! I like the way you solve annoying and unexpected issues with smile on your face. Most of us would have said f... instead 😀 btw: don't give a shit on the bolt... 🤘😀
Nicely done mostly on your own. Not a nice job have done a couple of these but pretty straightforward. Definitely get the wheels tracked though as the subframe is out of kilter after removing it.
Thank you James for this little series.. I really enjoyed it and also respect for doing such a big job like this in your driveway with just a jack.. My father works 20 years for Opel and he was really surprised that someone has done it soo well on the floor :D
That brief knocking sound when you started the engine first time indicates worn camshaftadjusters. I replaced these on the similar engine of my Opel (/Vauxhall) and it runs so smooth now. But I don't want to give you yet more work on this Vectra, sorry.... Greetings from the Netherlands (still Europe...)
Excellent job watch all the vids as I've got to have a new subframe fitted to my GSI V6 3.2 which I've had from new M.O.T failure I was going to scrap it but I'm going to get it done now it as very low miles Nice 1 five***** 👍👍
7:06 If you look at Part 3, 16:30. The gear box oil is red. Reason being around year 2000, GM had problems with the gearbox oil that they used previously. To address the issue, GM switch to their Automatic Transmission Oil instead (which is why it is red). Strictly speaking, that gearbox should be filled with ATF Dexron III(F) or higher. But since Tom is about to sell it, I guess you can fill it with anything. Furthermore, I don't think that 75-80w would cause any harm. Certainly not in the short term anyway. (God bless the new owner).
Well done jammer...... next time you see Tom there will be another mini series worth of work coming your way (Tom will not be there to help you for any of it)
Those 1.8 vvt lumps are crap if hes gonna get another vec get the 150 1.9cdti but make sure its a f40 gearbox and not the m32. Check the belts been done aswell because the waters pumps seize.
You have put the best gearbox oil in i see exactly the same as i put in. I find the oil goes very black after 2 years with the other brands but not with comma. I always change it every 2 years with mine. You can get heavy steering as well with worn ball joints. Good video.
@@jasonjuggler3457 Yes comma is the best i have used with no problems. Don't use millers as its very thin and makes your seals leak. It leaked straight away as soon as i put it in. Fuchs should be good but never tried that Castrol is excellent also but went black after 2 years where the comma did not,so used comma for many years with no problems. You need to change the gearbox oil in older vauxhalls/opels regular (2 years) as the gearboxes are very delicate and need fully synthetic only. I have done 60,000 miles now on my recon 1999 astra f23 gearbox and is still perfect. Would not switch from comma now.
Yes good videos keep up the good work I've got the brake bleeder to did mine and my bro car with it such a great thing to have I've also got the sealey ratchet never had any problems with me
That is not a suitable bolt to put through a vital ball joint clamp. It will wear on the soft threads and come loose. Very stupid cutting corners on a bolt that will be a few quid. I love all your videos but come on !
You can all stop commenting about the bloody bolt 😂 I've ordered one relax!
Don’t underestimate the bolt police jammer!! 😂
I believe it has coolant leak can you make video for that.
@Nigiri Sushi mmm 🤣🤣🤣
The fuck with that bolt man! Tee hee hee hee! :) (seriously though - that bolt TUV'ed? :P) Hey - I think you've been told 119 times about that damned bolt....)
Christopher Leishman hardly.
I wasn't in the gutter, till you said to get out of it 😂.
Great little series as always.
That was funny
I no others have commented about the bolt your going to use there are all correct. But the bolt you have will not have enough tensile strength for the application your gonna use it for. It could snap as well as allow the ball joint to pull past like someone else mentioned. Sorry for the geeky comment just don’t want anyone to get hurt 👍🏻
True. The standard bolt sits in the ball joint groove. That bolt will wear on the threads and weve all seen cars at the side of the road with wheels nearly snapped of caused by that pinch bolt type failure.
Yeah. It will do for a temporary fix but no good for long term.
Warning! Do not use that bolt!
For an application like that you need a shanked bolt. I.e. one that is not threaded all the way. The shanked part is what sits in the groove on the ball joint. Using an all threaded bolt will not hold for long and the ball joint can and will pull past the threads.
Ask me how I know! 😂
Was gonna say same. Oem hardware for suspension components is a must.
@@JESUSSDAD it's not even the fact it's not OEM, it's just the wrong type of bolt for the application.
You need a 10.9 grade bolt and shanked as above. To much pressure on that bolt will cause it to snap..
The Polo Guy cos u done the same and goosed your car
@@joeking1823 I actually caught it just in time, wasn't me that fitted the bolt. But I've heard of others that haven't been so lucky.
The bolt for checking the gearbox oil is where the oil is supposed to get filled up as well hence you can then see it dribbling oot
I need a mate like you! Tom should be providing pints for life!
After seeing you use that pump before I got a different branded 1 and did my brakes. So easy to use.
DONT USE A ORDINERY BOLT AS THE POLO GUY SAID WARNING.I DID ON MY CAR YEARS AGO AND THE BALL JOINT CAME OUT I WAS LUCKY. GREAT VIDEOS
ABS light will be because you had wheel speed on the front wheels but not rears, need to clear the abs module dtc's.
Don't forget to program the electric windows by motoring them fully down then fully up, once they are up, wait for them to make a small noise then you will regain one touch up and down 👍👍
some good knowledge their, thanks for sharing
I have the Z18XER and plan in doing the clutch. Im going to get the gearbox serviced as hard to change sometimes. Your video was great and really helpful. Keep up the good work
overall a brilliant mini series. great end result. another job well done
Great video as always, loved this mini series.
The exhaust clamp I would not have threaded parts face down. Hit your head on that while working, it hurts!
I haven't watched the previous videos but having spend many unhappy hours trying to line up gearboxes to mate them to the engine some wise old sage suggested obtaining two bellhousing bolts, cutting the heads off and screw them in to the block. As long as the clutch is lined up correctly you can simply slide the gearbox straight on to block.
Really enjoyed this series buddy. Great job and nice back tracking with the power steering. I sub’d years ago when you were doing tool reviews. Glad the channel is getting the subs it deserves.
Really informative video. Deffinately agree about pressure bleeding systems, although I like to attach a clear hose to the nipple to watch till the fluid comes through bubble free - also, it helps collect the waste.
To refill the gear oil, there is a cheap (£15 ish) fluid transfer pump which makes filling a doddle.
Well done James, i have Done this job 2 months ago, on my OWN pppfffffff. What a job.
That Bolt is a NO NO
Hi
When I dropoed subframe on my transit connect I used stud iron then lowered and raised it with a spanner. Takes a bit longer but easier when you are by yourself.
Great video series really enjoyed watching.
Well done on the replacement! A lot of work. Good job on the power steering issue too
Great outcome for the Vectra - well done 👍
Oi oi mar savage
Wearing a ford t shirt whilst fixxing a vauxhall tut tut
Only kidding
Good content once again
Good job , always like watching your vids James😎
Mind you: working on cars is a never ending learning voyage....even after 44,5 years...I still discovers new things🙄
Nice to see all the work...including the unplanned ones...good job !
Great work, that was one massive job, well done James!!.
On Fords and Nissans (probably most gearboxes) you actually fill it through the inspection bolt hole until it comes out.
75w80 is the good stuff, and it smells like some kind of toxic waste!
For some reason some cars recommend 75w90 which just gets too thick below 5 degrees (in the winter)
Great series james. Its feels great when everything works again!! Welldone!!👍
On installing the muffler clamp, I’d position the fasteners at 3 o’clock to avoid any damage if you bottom out the underside.
Love it james. This channel is just the best. I wish i had the confidence that you have to do the bigger jobs. Excellent videos in this series 👌👌👌
Good work james. Will need to get car tracked after removing that subframe .Vauxhall use a special jig to align the subframe you just took it out and bolted it back without marking the alignment. Great job though on doing it on driveway.
Very well done!!! I like the way you solve annoying and unexpected issues with smile on your face. Most of us would have said f... instead 😀 btw: don't give a shit on the bolt... 🤘😀
Nicely done mostly on your own. Not a nice job have done a couple of these but pretty straightforward. Definitely get the wheels tracked though as the subframe is out of kilter after removing it.
Great series of videos James. You always make things look easy. Good on you.enjoyed it.look forward to you getting back on the Fords though.
Love your work mate🤗
Proud moment for you. Well done!
Lovely Jubbly, always enjoy your vids, I think you got the message about the bolt.
Well done buddy. Watched all the videos.. I have a vectra VXR
well done son, great job
Excellent series james one of your best videos well done👍
Great job done well-done
Thank you James for this little series.. I really enjoyed it and also respect for doing such a big job like this in your driveway with just a jack.. My father works 20 years for Opel and he was really surprised that someone has done it soo well on the floor :D
The bolt is 8.8 tensile. Hardware store bottom rung junk. 10.9 tensile can handle a real hammering and so can any of the stainless grades.
Well done, hope you had the tracking checked after that.
That brief knocking sound when you started the engine first time indicates worn camshaftadjusters. I replaced these on the similar engine of my Opel (/Vauxhall) and it runs so smooth now. But I don't want to give you yet more work on this Vectra, sorry....
Greetings from the Netherlands (still Europe...)
First class job James keep up the good work
Excellent job watch all the vids as I've got to have a new subframe fitted to my GSI V6 3.2 which I've had from new M.O.T failure
I was going to scrap it but I'm going to get it done now it as very low miles
Nice 1 five***** 👍👍
Thanks for another great vid, James. Keep up the good work 👍
Well done james
Great series and excellent work.
Consider using a paint marker on the bold heads you’ve torqued up..
Great series of videos‼️
I kinda wanted to see you solve that coolant problem as well so it can really feel complete. It's like an OCD stuff thing lol.
7:06 If you look at Part 3, 16:30. The gear box oil is red. Reason being around year 2000, GM had problems with the gearbox oil that they used previously. To address the issue, GM switch to their Automatic Transmission Oil instead (which is why it is red). Strictly speaking, that gearbox should be filled with ATF Dexron III(F) or higher. But since Tom is about to sell it, I guess you can fill it with anything.
Furthermore, I don't think that 75-80w would cause any harm. Certainly not in the short term anyway. (God bless the new owner).
I like that you included the steering bit of the video, could have edited that easily 👍
Great video James well done
Well done keep up the videos :)
Another great video. I can use this series as a reference for working on my Astra.
Mate, i don't know about you but it doesn't matter how many cars i work on. I always get nervous when it comes to turn the key and see if it works.
Wish I had a friend like you, I’ve got an E46 330i convertible that needs some work doing on it 😔😔. Anyways, great series, keep up the good work 👍👍
Well done jammer...... next time you see Tom there will be another mini series worth of work coming your way (Tom will not be there to help you for any of it)
Wow nearly 60k,great video mate
well done James enjoyed series look forward to next on hope its Mondeo not seen it at moment
Hi James, loved the series on the vectra, we don’t have them over here in Canada (The Great White North)
May fail mot with that nut depending on tester as it is suppose to be a nyloc to stop it coming undone
Good job 😎👍
Super James!!! Brilliant keep it up
Those 1.8 vvt lumps are crap if hes gonna get another vec get the 150 1.9cdti but make sure its a f40 gearbox and not the m32. Check the belts been done aswell because the waters pumps seize.
Great video as usual dude
Well done James
You have put the best gearbox oil in i see exactly the same as i put in.
I find the oil goes very black after 2 years with the other brands but not with comma.
I always change it every 2 years with mine.
You can get heavy steering as well with worn ball joints.
Good video.
Very heavy if that bolt fails....
do you recommend this oil for m32 gearbox ratcher than a well know brand like fuchs / millers etc?
I use Comma semi synthetic in my Toyota. Toyota synchro rings can be fussy gripping on the higher grade synthetic gear box oils.
@@jasonjuggler3457 Yes comma is the best i have used with no problems.
Don't use millers as its very thin and makes your seals leak.
It leaked straight away as soon as i put it in.
Fuchs should be good but never tried that
Castrol is excellent also but went black after 2 years where the comma did not,so used comma for many years with no problems.
You need to change the gearbox oil in older vauxhalls/opels regular (2 years) as the gearboxes are very delicate and need fully synthetic only.
I have done 60,000 miles now on my recon 1999 astra f23 gearbox and is still perfect.
Would not switch from comma now.
@@zoidberg444 Yep good also.
Yes good videos keep up the good work I've got the brake bleeder to did mine and my bro car with it such a great thing to have I've also got the sealey ratchet never had any problems with me
Loved the video as always
Well done mate, good Job. 💪👍
Brilliant.
Mate that will be a mistake you’ll never forget hahahahaha grate video by the way
nice to meet you james my name is james :D Lol
Good vid as always bud 👍
Excellent video well done
The series was great I have an Opel vectra c 09. Thanks.
Well done James, a big job on the driveway once again.
Well done, I would get the correct bolt and swap them over.
Fuck the bolt , nice work James
well done mate :)
First Class Mate.
Baz.
Good video
Hi savage garage James love your comment saying get your mind out of the gutter brilliant always a pleasure to james
Top video good job 👍
That is a SET SCREW not a bolt. A bolt does not have a thread that goes all the way to the hex head. Like all the previous comments, change it.
Is it subframe you got the trolly jack on lift car up ??
well done James your mate owes you a big drink ....
good job well done good video
RE the power steering connection block. Wouldn't the bolt Carry the connection.
For your next project buy Saab 9 3 SS this would be THE CHALENGE
Is that Ball joint split, can see some grease ?
I wouldn’t use that bolt unless it’s high tensile and a trusted manufacturer
Back bleeding is the only way of doing clutches👍
Poly bushes on the Mondeo next?
😎👍
Please dont step in front of the car whilst those wheel are moving 😱
That is not a suitable bolt to put through a vital ball joint clamp. It will wear on the soft threads and come loose. Very stupid cutting corners on a bolt that will be a few quid. I love all your videos but come on !