Experience the ultimate convenience to get all the correct tools, and parts you need to get your OHV back on the trails here www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Sales/1974/Bottom-End-Rebuild?
Yes i would say these tools are mandatory tools. I guess it is possible to do it without them but these are going to save you a ton of headache and possible damaged or broken parts if you try to do the split without them. A very smart investment
Thanks guys - I was really dreading this...Bought a used '98 wr (was the only one for sale with a title) and guy did new cams+chain.....but 2nd ride the piston seized to the crank....so I pull the bottom end and there's tons of stuff going on in there...This video series, and your entire channel/company/business, makes me feel comfortable DIY'ing. Happy, even. Ain't nothing like wrenching - Just the money what's an inconvenience.
congratulations on your video from Colombia I do not speak English, you only need to see a video to learn more thank you very much I wish had had a teacher like ud to teach me a lot more. very immaculate your workplace
I acquired the tools shown in this video got my laptop and pulled this video up for backup then had my crank bearings in my ktm 250 2 stroker within a few hours. very helpful keep these videos coming!
Thank you! About the crank bearings it's hard to say if that is what's causing the whining noise or not. Those symptoms are hard to diagnose but if possible try and figure out where exactly the noise is coming from. Change your oil and see if you notice anything out of the ordinary. Also check your stator and make sure nothing is loose in there. As for your other question no dry ice is not required. You can just stick the bearings in your freezer overnight and that will be sufficient.
- the big c-clip is for the kx250. For the 65, fit the black collar over the shaft and use the stock c-clip. I just tested the fitment here and it works great. If you are having problems, give me a call.
@bailycoco - your premix at 40:1 is fine. If it is oily it can come from only two places. 1- oil in gas. Since your ration is fine I would check your jetting. 2. transmission oil. This can leak into the crank from a bad right crank seal. You may want to check your pipe as well. I have seen many bikes (especially 125 and smaller) plug up with carbon and oil in the narrow part before the silencer (and in the silencer). Make sure that is clean and clear.
You will need a case splitter to get the case apart easily without damaging anything. The crank puller is critical to prevent stress on the crank. The crank must be pulled (not pushed!) into the case halves so you do not knock it off balance or cause other damage. I highly recommend the right tools for any job.
@rockmusicismyidol - Kawis are tricky because they don't have a bolt or nut on the right side, making it hard to use a crank puller. The best way to do a KX, or KDX is to heat the right case half in an oven to about 200 F (this is about where water boils and it won't damage your seals). Freeze the crank. Once the crank is froze and the case (and main bearing in the case) is hot, the crank will drop right in. Assemble the transmission on the right. then use a pulling to install the left side
It's bound up somewhere but it could be in a number of different places. You may have to end up splitting the cases to figure out what it causing it to seize up but it could be something with your crank or a gear or something with the transmission or possibly something else so I would refer to your service manual for further suggestions
There's a number of different ways to get your case apart and you'll find some other videos here on you tube but using the case splitter tool is by far the smartest and most reliable low risk way to get your cases split.
It is hard to say. Unless you have unhooked your primary gear on the right side your crank is still driving the clutch and water pump. It could be resistance from those as well. remove the primary gear on the right side of the crank to be sure.
The puller is only used to remove the flywheel. The flywheelgoes on simply by tightening the nut or bolt. Once it is tight, you need a puller to get it back off. Because of the shape of the puller and shaft, the puller will stick.
@BigManlyMan4 - great question. Two ways to do it. 1. wait for the snap ring adaptor we are going to stock - I have one in production now that is specific for the KX250. It won't be done until mid september. 2. heat the right case half to 200 degrees in an oven (flame will ruin the seal). Freeze the crank shaft. It will drop right into the warm crank bearing. Then assemble the tranny on the right side. Use the tool to pull the left side together.
Yes it should be a 27mm Puller for your 99. I checked our apps and for some reason we aren't listing this for the bikes prior to 2000. I check the part numbers on the OE schematics and they superceeded to the newer flywheel for 1999 so the 27mm puller for the 2000 should work. We will get the apps updated asap.
I am not sure what you mean, but if it is in neutral and the transmission binds when yu push the bike, it sounds like you have some serious problems with eithes some transmission gears of shift forks. You may want to disassemble and inspect.
I haven't heard that the tool won't fit a KX100 until now, but I could see the splines being too small. I am not sure. I don't know what you mean when you say you "hogged the slines". You can use an impact. I wouldn't use it to put it back on, but coming off should be no problem.
It depends where the break is. if it is the right side of the center case, you are better off just taking apart the left and right sides. There isn't much on the left side anyway. All the hard stuff is on the right and you need to do that anyway.
Most likely the bolt and the pivot bearing bushings are rusted together. This makes getting the pivot bolt out very difficult. Spray as much "liquid wrench" or equivalent spray on the bolt as you can. Then, try pounding it out. Put something on the end of the bolt so you don't damage it. If it won't come, you need to find someone with a big press. Good luck!
It depends on what bike you have and you may have to refer to your service manual but some bike use a bolt with a retainer or a snap ring that sits down in that channel or a bolt that sits in a channel on the actuator arm. Others will pull out once the push or lifter rod has been removed . . .
Most modern bikes are designed like this. The Actuator arm is on the left side of the motor and it goes down into it to push the lifter rod and push the pressure plate out. Other bikes used it on the actual clutch cover like the older YZ125 but that really isn't seen anymore but it's because it's just a better design. Easier to push the plate than pull it and then you don't have to run the cable over there and for other reasons as well
@ChiefDrakula - many bikes will get hot and spit a little out. If it is getting below the cores in the radiator you may have a bad cap or a bad head gasket that is pressurizing the cooling system. If the bike is OK, we sell a Tusk high-pressure cap that works great.
A very important question indeed. No doubt your head gasket is shot; however, it shouldn't cause the water in your transmission. I think you have a leak somwhere else. I would check the water pump seal.
@Krazer2100 - take your time and pay attention to how each part comes off. It is fairly easy. One step at a time. I do recommend a service manual if you can find one. The manufacture should have one.
I'm not sure what you mean by "beside" but you've got your left crankcase cover on that side and you've also got your clutch actuator cover which sits right behind the left crankcase cover and right in front of your front sprocket and both of those have gaskets under them. Or are your referring to the seal or o-ring that sits under your front sprocket?
It's just going to depend on what is causing the leak; if for some reason your right case cover has a hole or a crack in it you may be able to fix it with some JB Weld or something like that. If it's a tear in the gasket simply replace the gasket but sometimes if you've got a scratch in the sealing surface a little silicone will help it seal. Go ahead and remove the case cover and that should tell you pretty quick what is causing the leak
Thanks for the quick response. It is a 1993 rm125 and I thought it was a 96 originally so I have the 96 repair manual that did not mention anything about a left handed thread but I might try
Stephen Svetz Being a "bolt style" that threads in to hold the gear on i doubt it would be a left handed thread. I just looked at the microfiche for your machine. Lock the clutch up with a nickel or penny and hit it with an impact gun, should break free.
@OPureGHOST - they are both very different. You can hold a flywheel with the clutch holder tool, but it won't remove the flywheel - you need both tools working together. On the clutch, the flywheel puller won't do you any good.
The flywheel pullers will usually always be specific to your bike. They do make universal pullers but we don't carry them. As far as other bottom end tools we have a case splitter (1177390001) and then we also carry a crank puller/ insttaller tool (1177380002) and then a clutch holding tool (1188510001) as well which are all universal tools.
That is an 8mm T-Handle but we offer these in all sorts of sizes along with different types and sizes of screwdrivers. If you go to our site and type in T Handle it should pull up everything we offer.
Sounds like you could have bent shifting forks. Most likely the cogs on some of the gears are bad too. When one or both of these problems occur the transmission will fall out of gear.
I have found (after many bottom end rebuilds) that instead of a hand held impact screwdriver, the better tool to use is a Craftsman Impact Driver. They are 19.2 volt cordless, and it has a quick connect bit attachment. I am a Sea-Doo mechanic (and do pretty much any 2 stroke wrenching on the side) and have found it to be invaluable.
Thanks That exactly what I was thinking, Is there an easy way of checking the waterpumps seal for leaks? Its hard to tell by just looking at it. It looks fine but I know that dont mean it isnt leaking. Thanks for your time i really appreciate it.
You need to split the cases like we have done in this video. Most likely you have a couple bad gears inside and a bent shift fork. When the ears of the gears wear, they pop out of gear easy and can bend a shift fork. I would bet that is what you would be looking at.
It depends on what problem they are fixing and what the shop rate is. You can easily exeed 500 bucks on the labor though. rocker arms can wear, but I wouldn't consider them 'high wear" items.
To maximize outer clucth hub life i always mark the pack ...with a simple scribe mark along a series of plate tabs...and a identifying mark on the basket. ive noticed if the plates r put back in any order sometimes the tabs wont mate proberly to the basket...which in turn causes un needed wear until they bed back in
Hey can I get some help plz idk if you still use this chanel or even are alive but I was riding my birthers bike and I think I blew the clutch not sure I keep looking for videos to show me what I broke but I can't find any plz can u reaply asap
@LVRidaZ - The right case cover will come off, but the two center cases won't come off until you remove the cylinder and pull the motor from the frame.
@memphetic - if you actually have a penny made of 100% copper (made from 1793 to 1857), I wouldn't ruin it. It is most likely worth a lot more than 1 cent. If you have a penny older than 1982 it will most likely have a decent ammount of copper in it. 1982 and newer are 97.5% Zinc with copper plating. The aluminum washer works great!
It could be a few things. 1 - leaky right crank seal. 2 - too much premix in gas or injector is dumping too much in (if you have an injector) 3 - poor jetting - very rich fuel mixture. All 2-strokes smoke some what. Keep a close eye on the color of your spark plug.
@heparsons - It isn't actually an "overflow" hose. it is just a breather hose. some will drip out every once in a while. If it is losing a lot, I would suspect way too much oil in there.
Certain types of billet clutch baskets are heavier than stock cast,i know some Hinsons are.However billet has no casting floors so are meant to be stronger.Most are hard anodised as well to make them last longer....What you have to think about is if you do get a lighter basket then yes it will give better throttle response but you will loose torque as there is less rotating mass within the engine
@troy118 - I would worry about it. I would start by removing the right case cover to look at the shifting mechanism. Maybe you will see the problem there. If not, it may be in the transmission.
your videos are very good but what I really needed was a video of yours if it were possible to repair a motor dt 50 lc. if it were possible .. very grateful ... good repairs
Great video... Quick question before I tear into my son's 98 CR80. There is a lot of transmission oil draining out of the crankcase overflow tube. What could cause that? Do I need to tear into the crank or are there other possibilities? thx for your help
Freezing the bearing slightly shrinks the metal and heating up the case slightly expants the material. It makes it easier to get the bearing in. Same with wheel bearing on cars etc.
you need to find the correct flywheel puller that your manual calls for do do it right. You don't want to ruin your electrical componants or crank by doing it wrong.
Hey guys very inspiring video, I own and ride a yamaha 01 wr400 and i have a slight whine on acceleration and a more distinctive whine on deceleration and i am headed in the direction of a main bearing replacement, i am on your site purchasing every tool you touched in this video as we speak and i just have a couple of q's, I live in australia and i have never come across dry ice besides high school science class, is it 100% necessary to use dry ice? is there and alternative?
If you pull up the OEM diagrams for your bike you can see which direction the collar faces... It looks like the shoulder portion of the collar sits towards the middle of the motor...
Great vids mate. I just brought a 04 yz250 and it's stuck in 5th gear picked it up cheap so should be a good project for me to pull down. The gear lever still moves up and down etc just won't engage into other gears. Is it very likely it could just be that ratcheting mech.? And if it is, iPod do I tell it's that and not a shift fork or something? Any help much appreciated cheers.
joe t ah, I think I’m gonna be doing this soon too... almost wanna buy either a good camera to film it along with marking and organizing as I go, or, buying a junk motor and trying it first lol...
@Monsterenergy8771 - If you use a shifter that is loose, the splines end up wearing our quickly. The aluminum shift lever should wear out quicker than the steel shaft (assuming yours is aluminum). Inspect closely and replace what you need to. Make sure to watch the lever and keep it tight!
well... i have tore apart my 2000 yz426f bike the other day and im great with engines...and to the rookie that doesnt have a hard time remembering where he or she took a part from go this route. if you have a hard time remembering DO NOT remove the kick start gear the it showed him removing YOU DONT HAVE TO... also you dont have to remove the shifter peg either however when you go to put the cases back together it might push out a bit but it will help you align the cases easier... this is a long comment eh. but other than that its fairly simple and can be done by a professional very quickly. it takes me 5 hours to tear down and rebuild my engine top to bottom. it only takes me two to out the whole thing together. also the person i got my bike from had rebuilt it before and trust me it seems like a good idea to beat the crank shaft out of the cases but dont be stupid by the correct tool for that... it isnt expensive.
No you shouldn't need to do anything with the clutch. It's just the cover that needs removed so to do that your kickstarter would need to be removed but that should be about it. You shouldn't even need to remove the clutch cover, just the right crankcase cover.
What do you recommend tightening the the nuts and bolts in the motor? It does not say in my manual, and to get the clutch nut and the primary drive nut off I had to use an impact wrench. Thanks
Well. It could be the transmission dog that grabs the 3rd gear..Or a shift fork is bent. Or the shift drum is to worn out..Im pretty sure the problem will cause you to split the case. Unless a rod somewhere bent or ceased. hope this helps you.
i just bought the tusk flywheel puller and i started trying it and it feels like i need alot more strength for it to loosen but i'm afraid that if i push it down more it will break.
![🔴 ฟุตบอลแชมป์กีฬา 7HD แชมเปียน คัพ 2024 [รอบรองชนะเลิศ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zPm8ClLVhoE/mqdefault.jpg)
Experience the ultimate convenience to get all the correct tools, and parts you need to get your OHV back on the trails here www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Sales/1974/Bottom-End-Rebuild?
Yes i would say these tools are mandatory tools. I guess it is possible to do it without them but these are going to save you a ton of headache and possible damaged or broken parts if you try to do the split without them. A very smart investment
Thanks guys - I was really dreading this...Bought a used '98 wr (was the only one for sale with a title) and guy did new cams+chain.....but 2nd ride the piston seized to the crank....so I pull the bottom end and there's tons of stuff going on in there...This video series, and your entire channel/company/business, makes me feel comfortable DIY'ing. Happy, even. Ain't nothing like wrenching - Just the money what's an inconvenience.
great series RM, not only you sell quality products at reasonable prices, you also help the DIYs with these great videos. Awesome.
congratulations on your video from Colombia
I do not speak English, you only need to see a video to learn more
thank you very much I wish had had a teacher like ud to teach me a lot more.
very immaculate your workplace
I acquired the tools shown in this video got my laptop and pulled this video up for backup then had my crank bearings in my ktm 250 2 stroker within a few hours. very helpful keep these videos coming!
Thank you! About the crank bearings it's hard to say if that is what's causing the whining noise or not. Those symptoms are hard to diagnose but if possible try and figure out where exactly the noise is coming from. Change your oil and see if you notice anything out of the ordinary. Also check your stator and make sure nothing is loose in there. As for your other question no dry ice is not required. You can just stick the bearings in your freezer overnight and that will be sufficient.
Really appreciate the channel! It has given my close friends and I the drive to make our own TH-cam Content! Thanks so much!
- the big c-clip is for the kx250. For the 65, fit the black collar over the shaft and use the stock c-clip. I just tested the fitment here and it works great. If you are having problems, give me a call.
Me and my dad got it finally it just took a lot of leverage and cranking but thanks for the help I really appreciate it!
Stephen Svetz Good to hear man! Thanks for watching.
@RicNetro17 - thanks! Glad you like them.
Holy cow this video was made in 2008 and better quality than most all videos made now on these subjects
@bailycoco - your premix at 40:1 is fine. If it is oily it can come from only two places. 1- oil in gas. Since your ration is fine I would check your jetting. 2. transmission oil. This can leak into the crank from a bad right crank seal.
You may want to check your pipe as well. I have seen many bikes (especially 125 and smaller) plug up with carbon and oil in the narrow part before the silencer (and in the silencer). Make sure that is clean and clear.
You will need a case splitter to get the case apart easily without damaging anything. The crank puller is critical to prevent stress on the crank. The crank must be pulled (not pushed!) into the case halves so you do not knock it off balance or cause other damage. I highly recommend the right tools for any job.
@rockmusicismyidol - Kawis are tricky because they don't have a bolt or nut on the right side, making it hard to use a crank puller. The best way to do a KX, or KDX is to heat the right case half in an oven to about 200 F (this is about where water boils and it won't damage your seals). Freeze the crank. Once the crank is froze and the case (and main bearing in the case) is hot, the crank will drop right in. Assemble the transmission on the right. then use a pulling to install the left side
It's bound up somewhere but it could be in a number of different places. You may have to end up splitting the cases to figure out what it causing it to seize up but it could be something with your crank or a gear or something with the transmission or possibly something else so I would refer to your service manual for further suggestions
There's a number of different ways to get your case apart and you'll find some other videos here on you tube but using the case splitter tool is by far the smartest and most reliable low risk way to get your cases split.
It is hard to say. Unless you have unhooked your primary gear on the right side your crank is still driving the clutch and water pump. It could be resistance from those as well. remove the primary gear on the right side of the crank to be sure.
The puller is only used to remove the flywheel. The flywheelgoes on simply by tightening the nut or bolt. Once it is tight, you need a puller to get it back off. Because of the shape of the puller and shaft, the puller will stick.
@BigManlyMan4 - great question. Two ways to do it. 1. wait for the snap ring adaptor we are going to stock - I have one in production now that is specific for the KX250. It won't be done until mid september. 2. heat the right case half to 200 degrees in an oven (flame will ruin the seal). Freeze the crank shaft. It will drop right into the warm crank bearing. Then assemble the tranny on the right side. Use the tool to pull the left side together.
Yes it should be a 27mm Puller for your 99. I checked our apps and for some reason we aren't listing this for the bikes prior to 2000. I check the part numbers on the OE schematics and they superceeded to the newer flywheel for 1999 so the 27mm puller for the 2000 should work. We will get the apps updated asap.
This video will be a great complement to my English classes. Thank you.
I am not sure what you mean, but if it is in neutral and the transmission binds when yu push the bike, it sounds like you have some serious problems with eithes some transmission gears of shift forks. You may want to disassemble and inspect.
i suggest pulling the magneto to eliminate that factor as well.
I haven't heard that the tool won't fit a KX100 until now, but I could see the splines being too small. I am not sure.
I don't know what you mean when you say you "hogged the slines".
You can use an impact. I wouldn't use it to put it back on, but coming off should be no problem.
It depends where the break is. if it is the right side of the center case, you are better off just taking apart the left and right sides. There isn't much on the left side anyway. All the hard stuff is on the right and you need to do that anyway.
Most likely the bolt and the pivot bearing bushings are rusted together. This makes getting the pivot bolt out very difficult. Spray as much "liquid wrench" or equivalent spray on the bolt as you can. Then, try pounding it out. Put something on the end of the bolt so you don't damage it. If it won't come, you need to find someone with a big press. Good luck!
It depends on what bike you have and you may have to refer to your service manual but some bike use a bolt with a retainer or a snap ring that sits down in that channel or a bolt that sits in a channel on the actuator arm. Others will pull out once the push or lifter rod has been removed . . .
Good call. The cam(little gear) can be checked by removing the right case cover. Do that before splitting the case.
Most modern bikes are designed like this. The Actuator arm is on the left side of the motor and it goes down into it to push the lifter rod and push the pressure plate out. Other bikes used it on the actual clutch cover like the older YZ125 but that really isn't seen anymore but it's because it's just a better design. Easier to push the plate than pull it and then you don't have to run the cable over there and for other reasons as well
@ChiefDrakula - many bikes will get hot and spit a little out. If it is getting below the cores in the radiator you may have a bad cap or a bad head gasket that is pressurizing the cooling system. If the bike is OK, we sell a Tusk high-pressure cap that works great.
A very important question indeed. No doubt your head gasket is shot; however, it shouldn't cause the water in your transmission. I think you have a leak somwhere else. I would check the water pump seal.
@Krazer2100 - take your time and pay attention to how each part comes off. It is fairly easy. One step at a time. I do recommend a service manual if you can find one. The manufacture should have one.
It is actually quite easy. I am sure anyone could handle it.
I'm not sure what you mean by "beside" but you've got your left crankcase cover on that side and you've also got your clutch actuator cover which sits right behind the left crankcase cover and right in front of your front sprocket and both of those have gaskets under them. Or are your referring to the seal or o-ring that sits under your front sprocket?
It's just going to depend on what is causing the leak; if for some reason your right case cover has a hole or a crack in it you may be able to fix it with some JB Weld or something like that. If it's a tear in the gasket simply replace the gasket but sometimes if you've got a scratch in the sealing surface a little silicone will help it seal. Go ahead and remove the case cover and that should tell you pretty quick what is causing the leak
Thanks for the quick response. It is a 1993 rm125 and I thought it was a 96 originally so I have the 96 repair manual that did not mention anything about a left handed thread but I might try
Stephen Svetz Being a "bolt style" that threads in to hold the gear on i doubt it would be a left handed thread. I just looked at the microfiche for your machine. Lock the clutch up with a nickel or penny and hit it with an impact gun, should break free.
@OPureGHOST - they are both very different. You can hold a flywheel with the clutch holder tool, but it won't remove the flywheel - you need both tools working together. On the clutch, the flywheel puller won't do you any good.
The flywheel pullers will usually always be specific to your bike. They do make universal pullers but we don't carry them. As far as other bottom end tools we have a case splitter (1177390001) and then we also carry a crank puller/ insttaller tool (1177380002) and then a clutch holding tool (1188510001) as well which are all universal tools.
That is an 8mm T-Handle but we offer these in all sorts of sizes along with different types and sizes of screwdrivers. If you go to our site and type in T Handle it should pull up everything we offer.
It is probably fine. Be careful not to break the hub. They are fragile. Are you rebuilding the crank?
@jacquestdi - this is a YZ250. You need the 27mm puller for your YZ125 (same as the 250 and most other 2-strokes). good luck.
Sounds like you could have bent shifting forks. Most likely the cogs on some of the gears are bad too. When one or both of these problems occur the transmission will fall out of gear.
I have found (after many bottom end rebuilds) that instead of a hand held impact screwdriver, the better tool to use is a Craftsman Impact Driver. They are 19.2 volt cordless, and it has a quick connect bit attachment. I am a Sea-Doo mechanic (and do pretty much any 2 stroke wrenching on the side) and have found it to be invaluable.
Sometimes it can be hung up by the actuator arm... try and rotate that a little and see if that allows you to pull the rod
Thanks. We appreciate your business. We will get more videos coming.
Thanks That exactly what I was thinking, Is there an easy way of checking the waterpumps seal for leaks? Its hard to tell by just looking at it. It looks fine but I know that dont mean it isnt leaking. Thanks for your time i really appreciate it.
You need to split the cases like we have done in this video. Most likely you have a couple bad gears inside and a bent shift fork. When the ears of the gears wear, they pop out of gear easy and can bend a shift fork. I would bet that is what you would be looking at.
- did you buy the C-clip adaptor tool for the KX 65 (part #1329270001)? You need that to attach the tool to the right side of the crank.
@bikercc - i think we show that in the video. Do you have a clutch hub holder tool. if that won't do it, use a pneumatic air impact.
It depends on what problem they are fixing and what the shop rate is. You can easily exeed 500 bucks on the labor though. rocker arms can wear, but I wouldn't consider them 'high wear" items.
it depends on the bike. I think this one was around a 27-30mm.
To maximize outer clucth hub life i always mark the pack ...with a simple scribe mark along a series of plate tabs...and a identifying mark on the basket. ive noticed if the plates r put back in any order sometimes the tabs wont mate proberly to the basket...which in turn causes un needed wear until they bed back in
You should be fine reusing that lock washer when reinstalling the clutch assembly
Hey can I get some help plz idk if you still use this chanel or even are alive but I was riding my birthers bike and I think I blew the clutch not sure I keep looking for videos to show me what I broke but I can't find any plz can u reaply asap
@LVRidaZ - The right case cover will come off, but the two center cases won't come off until you remove the cylinder and pull the motor from the frame.
@memphetic - if you actually have a penny made of 100% copper (made from 1793 to 1857), I wouldn't ruin it. It is most likely worth a lot more than 1 cent. If you have a penny older than 1982 it will most likely have a decent ammount of copper in it. 1982 and newer are 97.5% Zinc with copper plating. The aluminum washer works great!
It could be a few things. 1 - leaky right crank seal. 2 - too much premix in gas or injector is dumping too much in (if you have an injector) 3 - poor jetting - very rich fuel mixture.
All 2-strokes smoke some what. Keep a close eye on the color of your spark plug.
I liked the video; enjoyed it. Liked and subbed, great content !
Awesome! Thanks for checking out our videos!
@heparsons - It isn't actually an "overflow" hose. it is just a breather hose. some will drip out every once in a while. If it is losing a lot, I would suspect way too much oil in there.
Certain types of billet clutch baskets are heavier than stock cast,i know some Hinsons are.However billet has no casting floors so are meant to be stronger.Most are hard anodised as well to make them last longer....What you have to think about is if you do get a lighter basket then yes it will give better throttle response but you will loose torque as there is less rotating mass within the engine
@troy118 - I would worry about it. I would start by removing the right case cover to look at the shifting mechanism. Maybe you will see the problem there. If not, it may be in the transmission.
side to side is most likely normal. up and down movement means the bearings are shot.
@rickyelementsk8er - It makes sense, but the only way to know is by pulling it apart. I would be concerned about the oil pump if this is the case.
With philips head screws - using and impact driver prevents damaging the heads.
your videos are very good but what I really needed was a video of yours if it were possible to repair a motor dt 50 lc. if it were possible .. very grateful ... good repairs
@JoelPotter1 - the flywheel is "wedged" onto the crankshaft. It takes a bit of force to pop it loose.
I doubt it would come loose, but it could definitely wear out and leak.
Great video... Quick question before I tear into my son's 98 CR80. There is a lot of transmission oil draining out of the crankcase overflow tube. What could cause that? Do I need to tear into the crank or are there other possibilities? thx for your help
@Bajabugman23 - I guess it depends why it won't come off. What is keeping it from coming off? Where are you having trouble?
Freezing the bearing slightly shrinks the metal and heating up the case slightly expants the material. It makes it easier to get the bearing in. Same with wheel bearing on cars etc.
you need to find the correct flywheel puller that your manual calls for do do it right. You don't want to ruin your electrical componants or crank by doing it wrong.
Hey guys very inspiring video, I own and ride a yamaha 01 wr400 and i have a slight whine on acceleration and a more distinctive whine on deceleration and i am headed in the direction of a main bearing replacement, i am on your site purchasing every tool you touched in this video as we speak and i just have a couple of q's, I live in australia and i have never come across dry ice besides high school science class, is it 100% necessary to use dry ice? is there and alternative?
- if compression is low or you sucked some dirt or sand. Or, when your manual says it is time.
@BigManlyMan4 - Yes, you will need it tp pull the crank into the bearing.
@15tbizzle - It you can't work it out, you will need to drill the bolt carefully (centered) and use and easy-out bolt remover.
I can't imagine it would. i guess it depends on what the scratch was damaging. Just on the steel? i don't think so.
Excellent stuff.
If you pull up the OEM diagrams for your bike you can see which direction the collar faces... It looks like the shoulder portion of the collar sits towards the middle of the motor...
@bairdybee - you need a manual and you need to see how the shaft links up to the shift cam. Something isn't hooked up right.
Great vids mate. I just brought a 04 yz250 and it's stuck in 5th gear picked it up cheap so should be a good project for me to pull down. The gear lever still moves up and down etc just won't engage into other gears. Is it very likely it could just be that ratcheting mech.? And if it is, iPod do I tell it's that and not a shift fork or something? Any help much appreciated cheers.
sure they can be applied.
I have a 1997 kx 250. Do i need the C-clip adapter in order to pull the crank? I'm on the verge of buying all these tools from ya guys!!
I am not looking forward to this.
so how did it turn out? lol, i'm about to order my tools and tear apart a 2 stroke for the first time.
joe t same
joe t ah, I think I’m gonna be doing this soon too... almost wanna buy either a good camera to film it along with marking and organizing as I go, or, buying a junk motor and trying it first lol...
t did you do yours yet? How did it go?
@@goinhot9133 did you do yours yet? How did it go?
Part # 1179010002 will fit both bikes and most other two-strokes. You don't need any special tool to put it on. just tighten the nut.
- it really depends on the person and the bike. they are all different.
@Monsterenergy8771 - If you use a shifter that is loose, the splines end up wearing our quickly. The aluminum shift lever should wear out quicker than the steel shaft (assuming yours is aluminum). Inspect closely and replace what you need to. Make sure to watch the lever and keep it tight!
well... i have tore apart my 2000 yz426f bike the other day and im great with engines...and to the rookie that doesnt have a hard time remembering where he or she took a part from go this route. if you have a hard time remembering DO NOT remove the kick start gear the it showed him removing YOU DONT HAVE TO... also you dont have to remove the shifter peg either however when you go to put the cases back together it might push out a bit but it will help you align the cases easier... this is a long comment eh. but other than that its fairly simple and can be done by a professional very quickly. it takes me 5 hours to tear down and rebuild my engine top to bottom. it only takes me two to out the whole thing together. also the person i got my bike from had rebuilt it before and trust me it seems like a good idea to beat the crank shaft out of the cases but dont be stupid by the correct tool for that... it isnt expensive.
The process is about the same for any bike. We used a YZ250 in this video.
No you shouldn't need to do anything with the clutch. It's just the cover that needs removed so to do that your kickstarter would need to be removed but that should be about it. You shouldn't even need to remove the clutch cover, just the right crankcase cover.
I supose it depends on the shop. You will get your best estimation by calling a few in your area.
What do you recommend tightening the the nuts and bolts in the motor? It does not say in my manual, and to get the clutch nut and the primary drive nut off I had to use an impact wrench.
Thanks
@Mr261194 - if you have any up and down freeplay in your main bearings or lower rod bearing.
Think ill drop mine off at the garage.
Great vid though as always ;)
***** Thanks for watching!
Well. It could be the transmission dog that grabs the 3rd gear..Or a shift fork is bent. Or the shift drum is to worn out..Im pretty sure the problem will cause you to split the case. Unless a rod somewhere bent or ceased. hope this helps you.
@paintballer2X5 - the ones I have seen do. If you doesn't, you need to figure out where it is binding before you buy a new one.
i just bought the tusk flywheel puller and i started trying it and it feels like i need alot more strength for it to loosen but i'm afraid that if i push it down more it will break.
I really don't remember anymore. I just grabbed the one that fit.
Very helpful vids.
great video! I have a lot of play in the primary gears on the crank side, what will I need to do to fix the problem?
great video very helpful thanks