How To Choose The Best Bike For Heavier Riders
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ค. 2024
- How To Choose The Best Bike For Heavier Riders
Many people would like to start cycling but are worried that they might be to heavy for a particular bike. This is unfortunate as cycling is a great way to get fit and help them lose weight. The good news is that no matter how heavy they are, there will be a suitable bike for them. In fact is that no one is too fat or too heavy to ride a bike.
Like people, bikes come in all shapes and forms and many road bikes are able to support the weight of a heavier rider if you follow a few simple guidelines.
Today I talk about the things to look for when choosing a bike for a heavier rider.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Need anything cycling related? Buy it here from my Amazon store: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/leonard...
Join my Patreon for an exclusive invite to a live Q&A session with me every month. / jollygoodvelo
Email for business enquires: leonard@jollygoodvelo.com
Social Media
Jolly Good Velo Strava Club: / strava
Jolly Good Velo Facebook Group: / 239075813411056
Strava: / strava
I bought my first Carbon Frame ROad Bike when I was 300 pounds (135 kgs.) and I was really scared to break the bike in 2 and get really hurt. I am 100 pounds less now and, after 3 years, I ride the same bike :)
Well done, sir!
Good for you, just shows what you can achieve if you really want to
Bravo!!
Hi, I’m 300 pounds high now too... how carbon frame brand you thank is strongest? congratulations for your success.
Way to go 💪🏾
I’m 340 pounds or 154 kilos. And I am riding a 2020 Trek Domane SL5. Been a great bike close to 1000 miles on it currently.
Whats the weight limit? Carbon frame? Im 300
Hills must be quite the challenge, but at least the Domane should climb well for a road bike. I'm only 260lbs and have lost about 15lbs since I started riding again last year and I still feel it big time on climbs, especially technical climbs on my MTB.
I have the same bike. I'm not quite in the same weight category as you but I will say that I did go tubeless on my stock wheels and installed Vittoria 700x37 gravel tires (they measured out to almost 40 really) and I will say it made a world of difference in the ride of the bike. Not that the 32mm were not good already just I live in a very rural area of West Virgina and they (32mm) didn't handle the sometimes gravel roads that I like to ride.
Impressive, I am 198cm and just under 120kg. I wouldn´t trust a carbon bike even if I were 80kg. I ride a Giant alu 3x10 Shimano 105. Heavy yes, but I get up pretty much anywhere.
I'm 315 and I ride a speacialized crosstrail, aluminum, I love it
Even as a light weight cyclist (185cm/70kg) I find this channel, because Your calm "feet on the ground" -presentation of all angles of every day cycling, a top notch! Information presented is for every cyclist. Even for us, a little more progressed Sunday cyclists.. thank You for that. Though pizza shouldn't never be under valuated; one of my main basic food item of the day! :)
@Mr Zazovia I live on area where highest point is 50m from sea level. And that is a rock in middle of forest. Just did a 100km ride with only under 500m "climbing".. so it's impossible to train ascenting or descenting. Need to go to Alps and this summer it's not possible. :(
But yes, I love climbing and getting fast down at Alps! :)) Good climber.. well, that's a different question, but anyway it's "fun" to reach summits.
"Whatever you weigh, it shouldn't be too difficult to find a bike to suit you"
"Never exceed the manufacturer's maximum weight limit"
Then no bicycle for me
LOL
I am now and I’m terrified lol
Thanks Leonard,
I especially appreciate your comments on steering tubes, an area of the bike that has concerned me greatly since owning 2 Viscount Aerospace bikes back in the 1970's.
I never had a problem with either of those bikes, and only in later years found out how dangerous they supposedly were.
Your videos are always a source of pleasure, and a lesson in the English language.
I started at 218 kgs on a Giant Suede. Very few issues. Since then I’ve developed a taste for cycling; Greenways and MTB trails. I currently have a Kona Rove and a Santa Cruz Chameleon. Both awesome bikes. I’m down 54 kgs, loving being on my bike.
Hey Brandon Parker, I really want to buy a bike but you see I’m 160kg and I’m really afraid to waste my money on a bike that will break. Can you seriously vouch to me that you’re bike could handle +200kg??? I’m not trying to be disrespectful I just really need help.
@@zaideglover5749 Can I guarantee that a bike won’t break? No. Two things I have learned about bicycles: 1) The wheels are usually lower quality on new bikes so the company can hit their price point. 2) Shit happens.
Being a larger rider means we put more strain on the wheels, the drivetrain.
All of that to say, cycling is an investment. I was really hesitant when I started out, spending money. It is frustrating trying to learn the ins and outs of your bike.
You will need to spend money and time with patience.
I just did a 30 km ride with 244 meters of elevation ride on my Santa Cruz Chameleon. I weigh 166kg.
You have to take a chance and sometimes upgrade your components
@@brandonparker6962 thank you, you have been very helpful, do you have any way telling me where I can get a decent bike
@@zaideglover5749 Your local bike shop would be the best place. I don’t think one brand is better than another, besides they pretty much use the same components.
Steel framed bikes are awesome. A 26” wheel is stronger because it is smaller, but I like 27.5/650b. Make sure the spoke count is at least 32. Shimano SLX freehub did well for me, but SRAM 700 series broke on me. Dropper posts are cool, but some are made with plastic components… so a regular seat post is stronger.
Good luck 😎🤓
Hey mate . Thanks for making this video as i am a heavier rider too at 130 kgs its good to know there is others out there and the information is very helpful .
Thanks for this video. As a heavy cyclist myself, and having helped other cyclist in same class, here is what I have learned:
1) Add the pie plate cassette. An 11-40 with 50/34 does wonders for hills
2) Use largest tire the frame and fork can accommodate. Better ride and protection from pinch flats
3) Use seat clamp with largest clamping surface. This has cured slippery seat post
4) For mechanical brakes (rim and disk) replace housing with compressionless type. It really does improve brake feel and performance
5) For disc brakes, upgrade front rotor to next size up; usually +20mm. Cheap insurance when you are descending a steep section
6) check for loose spokes periodically
I am both a large cyclist and a bike mechanic and I like your list. I'd also add, look for wheels with a higher spoke count, and learn how to true a wheel.
I would add double butted touring wheels, paricularly the rear with an uprated hub. I run a much wider 700c rear tyre, 45mm wide and a 34mm at the front. I also use a heavy duty 29r mtb tube in the rear tyre which works a treat. I also used to break modern plastic saddles, even expensive ones. A Brooks B17 solved that problem.
I've definitely taken a few of those steps. I ride a MTB, so I have the SRAM eagle 11-50t cassette with 30t chainring, would probably climb up a vertical cliff haha. I got lucky with my seatpost as my dropper post is the perfect length while fully inserted into the frame. And I upgraded my brakes to 203/180 Shimano XT rotors with metallic pads, huge braking improvement. I do find I need to run a few psi more in the tires than a skinny rider or I will ping my rim on rocks.
Thanks for the video, I weigh about 26 stone, I have a specialized cross trail. I've had problems with broken spokes cracked rims and broken hubs.when I was riding I could feel the rear wheel flexing. So what I have done is bought a set of built up 700c mag alloy wheels of Ebay, fitted straight on and feels so good now when riding. Deffo worth a look
I started at 180kg on a alu Merida Speeder with a (shop-built) humble 32 spoke Tiagra wheelset. Never an issue, no broken spokens or even loss of true; just rear tyres every 2000 km.
I started on an emtb a year ago at 114kg for commuting to work, I now ride a road bike for the same journey and do it in way less time, as a stepping stone back into cycling the ebike was a godsend, having the confidence to go out riding because I knew that if I struggle I can bump up the assistance and get back no problem. When I ride my ebike now, I ride in eco mode or turn the motor off completely if I really want a good work out. I'm down to 100kg so far @ 6ft :)
Im 300 lbs
And im lookingvto do the same thing you did can you suggest an e bike capable enough to get started with.
Thanks for all your videos. It shows that cycling and fitness is for anyone. I am heavier guy looking for my first bike since I was school boy.
Outstanding video, thank you. It's answered so many of my questions and saved me yonks of internet research time.
Extraordinary review. Very detailed and exactly what I’ve been searching for, as I search for the perfect commuter/fun/exercise and most importantly cost effective while getting the best that suits my heavy needs. Thank you.
Great video. Just getting back into road riding. Things have changed a lot. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for your advice and thoughts.
New bike day for me at the beginning of June. It's been on order since mid April but, well, COVID-19 and that. Just been frantically checking the maximum weight, thought I'd covered everything before I ordered. Turns out at 98kgs and 5'8" I should be OK.
Thanks for another great video Leonard.
Big fan of your channel. I have just taken up cycling for weight-loss and the sheer enjoyment of freedom on the tarmac. Keep it up!
Thank you for sharing your perspectives. Appreciated!!
Glad you like it.
Great video’s sir, well done 👍, I purchased a Pinnacle Arkose D2, gravel/adventure bike, seriously never looked back. Changed the tyres to marathons 700x32, a bit more all round tyre. If you are not a name snob, love gravel tracks it’s perfect 👌🏻
I don't classify myself as a larger rider, but this is the second of your videos that I have watched and I really like them. Anything that encourages more people to ride and lays their fears to rest about cycling (whether it's related to body size or anything else) can only be a good thing.
love your videos ! a real inspiration . got to ride more! plus 0:40.. physics, got to give you an extra point for that.
Great coverage of this subject! I'm 6'5 ,113kg and I have carbon and aluminium bikes. 32spoke F/R on aluminium and 20F/24R on carbon. All rims are DTswiss and haven't popped a spoke yet. Also I ride 52/36 w/175mm crankarm, chainsets, I find them great for climbs. I don't have disc brakes on either bike, this is not much of a problem where I live in SoCal we get little to no rain here. But if get another new bike day, (I have 4 since '17) I'll get discs for sure. Thanks for the info Mr. Lee...ride on.
Excellent well measured advice thanks Len (may I call you Len!?) Lots of love for gravel bikes in the comments, and I too recently bought one. Mostly because I fancy touring and the gravel bike is a little more relaxed than road and has rack/guard mounts. It does have stronger wheels (32 spoke) fair gearing (compact with 11-32) and hydraulic disks. All these things make it perfect for the more gravitationally challenged amongst us! P.S. I loved the 'very honest' clips in your video, like trying to clip in at 4:30!
Great video. I think I'm in this category. Was popping spokes and actually switched to full carbon wheels with advice from my local bike shop. They are very strong and the flat DT spokes seem to be holding up well. The wheels I bought were the Bontrager Aeolus Pro 5 TLR disc model. Bike is a Felt VR5. I'm getting back into riding more this year. It's been great.
Good to hear!
This is such a good video on explaining some things it took some learning curve to figure out! Being 198cm tall and 136kg makes it a bit difficult to find a bike for you, and it definitely makes you the odd man out riding. In my experience I've learned that a proper fit, through axles, and hydraulic disc brakes are the way to go, because if you try to stop 136kg going down hill at 65kph those rim brakes will not work.
Can I just say I find your videos information, entertaining and inspiring. I'm over 60 and just fallen in love with cycling once again, however on an e-bike (sorry to some reading this). I'm now out and about almost each day and go at least 15 miles and about twice a week about 40. Just love being out there and not have to worry too much about those hills.
Dont apologise!!!!
@@stevegreenwood8168 Agreed. E-bikes, trikes and recumbents were created to make cycling MORE inclusive.
I'm 118-120kg and looking to purchase a Boardman Team Carbon, I'm glad that I was able to stumble upon your channel it gave me the extra push to go with the purchase. CHEERS!
I’m 6.3 225 and have never had an issue on my super six evo carbon. With factory made clinchers. Guess I’ve been lucky. Great Vid Leonard!
I got a Breezer Radar bike steel frame and love it! Frame is super tough and has survived some bumpy mountain biking. Plus it has clearance for real 29in tires.
If you are 350 lbs (25 st) or above then your absolute best option is a Touring Bike! ...they are purposely made to carry heavy loads, steel frame, high spoke count, geometry designed for good weight distribution are all standard features of most touring bikes - Kona Sutra, Salsa Marrakesh, Surly Disc Trucker & Trek 520 are the most popular touring bikes!
What do you think of something like a marin four corners 2021? Idk if the wheels would be ok for 400lbs though
I am getting started and rocking in a similar boat. Thanks for sharing your thoughts through your videos.
Looking to start cycling to loose weight and and as a heavier person found this video incredibly helpful on what to look out for. Thanx
Even if you don't lose weight immediately you will still be better off for it. My blood pressure and resting heart rate/etc. have dramatically improved since riding regularly again.
I bought a Salsa Journeyman (adventure/gravel bike) last year. I love it! My goal was to get off the streets when possible. I changed out the stock tires (WTB Riddler) to Specialized Pathfinder Pro's (38 mm) and what a difference on pavement! The middle of the tire is smooth, much like a road tire, but it still maintains a tread on the sides for those days that I hit the gravel and days that the ride hits both surfaces. The best part is with the tire change the rolling resistance is nearly the same as my Trek road bike. The geometry is also a little more slack and as I've aged, it's a bit more comfortable. I can also run the tire pressure a little lower which absorbs some of the vibration and shock that gives me real issues in my hands. This bike also has mechanical disc brakes that are fantastic. I chose not to go with hydraulics as I was worried about having issues and potential brake failures if there was a problem with the brake line. Personally, I'd never go back to rim brakes.
Thanks for the video. Just wanted to add that I would pay attention to the wheels first. My previous bike was Giant Roam - everything was fine but the wheels were just a disaster for the rider like me (127kg at the moment). Even when rims were still fine, aluminum spokes broke about 3-5 times, and every time I had to take to the bike shop where they put a new steel spoke and true the wheel and yes, it costs money, time and the Joy from your riding. When I asked mechanics what to do they advised to buy a set of touring wheel with steel spokes OR to buy a new bike with good wheels our of the box because it will make more sense if I won't tu upgrade the bike somewhere in future. And at the end I sold my Roam and bought Fuji Jari 2.5 on Chromoly frame with GOOD wheels. And I started to love cycling again - roads, gravel, forest trails - all good, 2 years and everything is still fine. All other equipment is not so important, I mean derailleurs/shifters etc - if it works and tuned up your weight won't affect them. Even the frame is not so important if you are not doing some hardcore riding. Thanks again.
I am an older heavier rider. I absolutely love my 700c Surly Disc Trucker frame custom built with Shimano Ultegra road components and 36h DT Swiss TK 540 wheels with Onyx hubs. It rides smooth and quiet.
Excellent video Leonard. Yes, nothing like a new bike
Another brilliant video for a newbie oldie, who was built for comfort rather than speed 😊. For “speed” I have motorcycles. Only found your site yesterday mate, but finding it massively helpful. Loved the “beer and pizza muscle” reference 🤣
i am really grateful that i found your channel... good work sir
thank you for sharing great video👍🏻
In my experience - down to 225 lbs. from 260 - most carbon fiber frames can handle heavy riders just fine. It’s all about the wheels. When I kept loosening and popping spokes on the OEM Wheels on my Giant Defy Advanced 1 (2014), my bike shop recommended Velocity Deep V wheels (32 spoke). They are a go-to wheel for Clydesdale cyclists. In 6 years I’ve never had to have those wheels trued.
Thanks for the tip on compact cassette and gears, too
Excellent video, thank you
What a soothing and articulate video :). Quite informative, thx
Great video. Hope to see you out on the road.
Thanks man! Also really appreciate the weights in several units 👍😅 now I understand better why my bikes always broke so far
Thank you for this video. I’m 49 and very overweight (290 pounds) and have just received the “get in shape or else” encouragement from a medical specialist. I was a cyclist in my youth and loved it. Need to get back to it but was curious about this topic. Great information. I will start out with a mountain bike and go from there. Thanks again for the video as well as the inspiration! Keep up the great work!
Good luck Bob.
For the heavier rider, I'm surprised that you didn't mention getting a Touring bike. I ride a Trek 520, not going to beat a racing bike but a great riding experience (even with loaded panniers on the back), plus the gear ratios are great too!
yes my Kona sutra is lovely
He likely hasnt tried one yet.
Great advice your videos are very motivating 👏
I ride an ebike as a heavier ride with lung function issues and I love it. I ride more often and further because of it. Any nay sayers just dont understand and I pity their blinkered thought process.
Great video, thanks.
No shame in e-bikes. It's getting you out there. It got me started and conditioned physically and mentally enough to get onto a road bike. I know of cyclists with heart issues who use them to keep up with the peleton.
No shame if you have health issues!
Great content! Spot on.
I’d say that a modest gravel bike is ideal for stronger riders and a e-bike for weaker riders or riders who face many steep hills. I’m 85kg, and I find that 28mm tires are right for me. Smooth 32mm tires would be perfect for heavier riders on the road. That additional compliance could help avoid pinch flats (go tubeless!) and would help reduce sharp forces on the wheels, fork, frame, and rider.
My wife has an e-bike. I live on a steep hill. I’d never ride her bike for fitness or fun, but I love using it on a hot day for a quick trip to the hardware store. I can put the goods in the panniers and return home without being drenched and out of breath.
One tip: go for mid drive, rather than hub drive. Mid drive will have an oversized bottom bracket, and that’s where the forces are applied. Hub drive puts the forces on the spindly, little dropouts. My local bike shop recently had a failed dropout on an ebike conversion with hub drive, and the rider was a small, thin woman. The bike frame was ruined. So yeah, mid-drive.
Love the channel, Leonard! Everybody can ride!
Perhaps being a conversion the dropouts weren't built to withstand the additional weight and stress.
My E bike is built like a tank and weighs as much. It's a hub drive but the next one will be crank drive because it's a much smoother and more natural ride
Awesome & Thanks :)
Really enjoy your videos. Extremely fun and informative. I am aware that you have done a ebike video. Looking forward for you to make a video about a ecargo bike.
Thanks for all of your vids. I have a Trek aluminium with a carbon fork, ugh weight limit 240 pounds. Need to ride my indoor trainer first.
Mornin Leonard, someone else mentioned 650b's. I was listening to one of guys at WTB explain why they brought them back. The outer diam. is 700c though there is a large air cuchion. Also keep in mind the recomended tire pressures are for dudes that weigh no more than 165. So a little more pressure for larger riders is what he recomends. A few bike builders to take a look at are All City, and Surly. They are very well built, and steel is real. The road/gravel bike in Surly's line up have a 300lb weight limit. Thanks for addressing us of large stature.
Thank you i've learned a lot from this video
Yesterday, I rode a FOLDIND
RECUMBENT TRIKE for over 4 hours. It is a Greenspeed Magnum XL and will hold a rider up to 475 lbs.
Could you get out tho ?
@@jawg2392 Yes. You set the brake on both front wheels. You can attach two front post extension handles that serve perfectly to hold on to as you lower yourself in and to grab on to as you pull yourself back up and out. Not hard at all. Check out the Velotechnik Scorpion PLUS. Its seat is higher and more forward leaning. Test ride some models.
Thanks, I have a heavy friend myself and he needed help.
another great vid,,,,,
I’m 17st, I got a Boardman adventure bike (ADV8.9) I love the sturdy frame and the larger tyres and yet it still rides like a road bike. Perfect for a larger rider.
if my only problem would be: "which bike to buy?" ;-) Hopefully one day...
Hi Leonard.
Love your channel.
I have an all road drop bar bike that runs 700x30 slicks and 650x47 treaded as needed.
Maybe Endurance, Touring or all road bikes with options of stronger rims and brakes and wider tires is an option
...and the freehub design, I went for DT350 because no little pawls and lots of engagement points= takes a beating. Great info you have put out, all makes sense to me. Ride on ! :- )
204 cm or 6`8" in imperial at 135 kilos/297lbs, I ride a Surly LHT and ECR, both are touring steel frames with hand built 36 spoke wheels. Frames are rated for 160 kilos, rider and luggage. The LHT has a 3X Sugino touring set-up and the inner ring is just for hills, not feasible for anything other than climbing, but that it does quite well. Not very fast as such, but it gets around. The ECR has a 1X11 at the moment but that was the only thing possible to source last year, it will get the 2X cranks I bought for it, when I find a fitting front derailleur. Somewhat keen to upgrade the LHT for something with Disc brakes, though, it has V-brakes at the moment. Speed for me is not of the essence, but I have trodden the LHT to 42 km/h, and that was more than enough. :-)
As a heavier rider, I chose a CrMo steel frame. Maybe its a few pounds heavier than carbon, but I am unlikely to notice that small difference because of my size. I did have to get a wheel set replaced however, but it was still under warranty. Also, I only found Trek to list weight limits for its bikes. The rest of the information came from a very helpful bike shop owner.
I've been riding a steel road bike for 20 years and I've always weighed about 235lbs or so.
That was quite well informative. However, one very, very important thing that you missed out. Tyre pressure. It should be increased roughly 1bar for roughly every extra 25kg. So if your tyres optimal pressure is like 7bar (which is for like 80kg heavy rider), and you weight 130kg, you should at least put 9bar of pressure. So very, very important thing is to have tyres with as large as possible maximum pressure rating!
Well done video Leonard. I will say that I noticed on you Cannondale you were running a 105 group set, and you mentioned having a 11-30 cassette although not sure if it was 10 or 11 speed. However you can opt for a 105 GS derailleur (long cage) and install a 11-34 which will give you some additional lower gears for some of those tougher hills. I have noted also that many manufactures are already going that route and for the Gravel segment bikes they are going with the New Shimano GXR group sets which basically is the combination of the Road and MTB groups married up into a hybrid if you ask me. Most of we old school riders have been doing Mullet bike gearing for years LOL, however it is nice to see Shimano perfect the practice. Cheers!
I have got a Claude Butler Dalesman touring bike made from Reynolds steel tubing, 36 spoke wheels, 700x32 tyres and a 3rd low climbing cogg, ideal for carrying heavy weights including my carcass...😊
Great video Leonard.
I can definitely recommend the GIANT TOUGHROAD SLR 1 (2020). It's a bit overkill on the cargo racks, I took them off and the only real downside was that the hand grips needed replacing (as they were not comfortable).
Oh almost forgot I took your insight and switched to KM liking it now so thanks for that too
Agree with disc brakes, I would never go back to rims. Ran out of brakes on a mates bike in Dorset scary, same hill with discs no dramas even in the wet
As an MTBer, I would never ride rim brakes again, and would absolute go disc on a road bike. Even on my MTB I went up to 203mm front rotor and metallic pads to help improve the braking.
Great video Leonard, very informative, If I were heavier I would steer away from carbon framed bikes until my weight dropped, I have 105 brakes which are very good but would agree disc would be better especially in the wet. Gravel bike is a win win, stronger frame, wider tyres, plus a bit of off-road, plus most come with disc brakes. Hope you feeling better now your getting out more, take care mate, Alan.
yeah after a cycling injury and regaining 40kg over 2 years im keeping my Bianchi infinito cv garaged and using my touring bike
I sold my Domane 5.2 some years back and bought a Kona Sutra touring bike. I love it. It's not fast, but it is rather agile and extremely comfortable.
That being said I am beginning to miss the road bike. Maybe a new one in the wind.
Cheers mate, good video 👍
Buy used and save hundreds.
Great advice 👍 inpartically gear ratios
Though I’d recommend 11-34, rather than 11-30, depending on hills. I have a very steep ride home. The easy way is about 12-14%. The shortcut maxes at 25%. My first bike when I got into riding had a 46-30 crank and 11-34 cassette. I added a Wolf Tooth extender and went to an 11-40 cassette. And I’d still get home beat! Frankly, the 50-34 and 11-30 combination recommended here isn’t enough for heavier or new riders in steep areas.
Outstanding advice.
Thanks
Thanks for sharing - will pass your knowledge on to friends. Jolly good video. :-D
In truth, the information is interesting and important. In my case I reached 100 kg and I had not paid attention to the number of spokes of the rear wheel. It is certainly something to consider for added security
Wow! Thank you for invaluable nuggets of information in your video… I’m an overweight novice…. perfect advice 👌
The "old beer and pizza muscle" - my great strength!
Yoga master ! So calm and relaxed, with a bitter and funny point. Good job
What did you mean with "heavier cyclists"? Did you mean gravitationally challenged? 😉
I sat once on an e-bike of friends for a couple of kilometers on the way to a lake for swimming and the way back. 😎 My 1st impression: the road and the bicycle paths in a hilly forest become flatter/more even/less hilly. The added force/power of the electric motor comes smoothly and increases gradually with the needed Watts when you accelerate after a red light or when you cycle uphill. You just feel the difference if you shut the motor off - ooooof. 😳
I'm 200 pounds and have three aluminum and one carbon fiber bikes. During each month of riding I would expect to break at least one spoke in at least three of my bikes. Always the rear wheels! Four more spokes in each wheel took care of the problem. It was also recommended that I replace my rear 23mm tire with a 25mm. The fact that its recommended pressure is 80 pounds and not 100 plus seems to have made the difference. I also broke a front spoke just dropping six inches off a sidewalk even with both brakes on. The additional force on the front wheel was about zero but it still broke. I no longer take any chances going down hills at speed and use the brakes on every hill. When a single spoke brakes on my bike, the entire wheel locks up. This is bad enough on a rear wheel, but I don't even want to think about it happening on the front! When I first bought these bikes I was told that they had a weight limit of up to 500 pounds. In their dreams. Before buying any new bike I would strongly suggest that you bring an expert with you. I would recommend 25mm tires for both the front and back if you're over 160 pounds. I believe that the maximum tire pressure of these tires is 80 pounds. This should take care of the problem. Don't forget a high spoke number. What you save up front, you are going to spend in energy pushing your bike home or worse! My longest push home was 12 miles! I see what they mean when they tell us that biking is great for weight loss. (Mike Scott, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada)
Mike Scott Mate with a disk brake endurance bike you’ll likely fit a 32 tyre in there and run a very cushioning 60 psi. You’ll fit 28’s on most rim brake bikes and 80 psi would be the max you’d need. They roll better and all. Cheapest upgrade for speed and comfort.
Thanks for the great information! Since I'm 77 years old I probably won't be starting over again. You sound as if you know what you're talking about. I should have brought you with me four bikes ago! Thanks again.
Good video. As a rider currently at 120kg, down from 160kg, I agree with pretty much everything you've said. I would suggest looking at cyclocross or gravel bikes rather than a road bike. Unless you're dead set on a particular road bike, a cross bike will be a bit more comfortable, a bit stronger, and not really any slower. Or, as my favorite bike shop guy said when I wanted to "upgrade" to a faster bike: "It's not the bike that's fast - it's the engine. Ride the bike you've got and you'll get faster."
Get wider tires. It's more comfortable, and it'll let you support your extra weight without super high air pressures. 28mm would be my minimum. 32mm is just fine on the road. I personally ride 40mm tires since I spend a lot of time on gravel. I'm sure they slow me down a bit when I'm on pavement, but it's not a noticeable amount.
Sir what gravel bike do you recommend for a 130kg weight
@@kevinfernandez38 It depends on what's available in your area. I'm a fan of the Salsa Vaya or Cutthroat. I ride a Cutthroat. The Cannondale Topstone rides nice, as does the Orbea Terra. Really whatever brand is supported where you are, and whatever material (steel, aluminum, carbon) that you can afford and like. Your weight won't break a carbon frame unless you crash it, I promise.
Most people ride gravel on 32mm tires, more or less. I prefer something closer to 40mm. It evens out the ride, and I don't feel like it slows me down at all. So - anything that can take a 40mm tire and that feels good when you ride it. I suggest going for longer chainstays (430mm+) and lower bottom brackets (70mm drop is nice). Buy what you can afford and like. Ride it like it comes from the shop to start. Ride it for a while. Wheels are the most likely problem area. If you start to have wheels breaking spokes or going out of true, buy a new wheelset. A well built wheelset with 32 spokes front and back should be fine. Go for 36 spokes if you really worry about it.
After that, you just want comfort. Good tires and a good saddle are important. I have a Redshift Sports shock stem and seatpost for more cushion. They aren't really necessary. But if you're going to spend 4 or more hours in the saddle, everything you can do to make it more comfortable helps.
Thanks a lot for these great tips sir!
@@kevinfernandez38 You're welcome!
@5:01 his weight conversion is mixed up: 120 kg is 265 lbs., not 165lbs.
Im 6'1 128kgs rider. Switched to gravel steel bike from the giant ar aloy. No regrets. Glad I made the switch. I now enjoy my ride better than my former giant bike which has dfuse seatpost which sometimes create creaking sound.
When I started riding I was almost 450 pounds. I had zero confidence in a road bike supporting my weight so I bought a hybrid with an alloy frame and fork, and a stout 32 spoke wheel set. After losing about 150 pounds I’m still riding that bike but I’ve converted to drop bar. It’s a heavier bike but it’s strong and I have no concerns about supporting my weight, and with the drop bar it’s very comfortable.
Thank you for your tips , I learned more in ten mins than I have been told from bike shop salespersons . Unfortunately I am a little over the 120KG mark and am mainly looking for road bike, preferably that handle some light rough surface tracks. I am not to sure when you mention a gravel bike If you mean what in Australia is called as a adventure road or cyclocross bike. Other than the road bike and mountain bike categories there is also another type referred to as a hybrid. Even in a lot of the online reviews on bikes for heavy riders, road bikes hardly make a mention. the only one that keeps coming up is the Schwinn Phocus 1600. I see you have chosen the Cannondale brand are they known for their higher payload capacity?
Im 6'5 350. In decent shape and like to mountain bike. Being this large just by genetics causes problems cause noone makes stuff for you.
Thanks for video
im 6'6" 300 i feel you
I made up my mind last year. As son as I decided how much I was willing to pay - I went to a local manufacture. They build the frame according to your measurements from scratch. And one of the first remarks was: We size up the top tube one size, no problem.
Det Dat Can I ask who your local manufacturer is?
I start riding at 125kg, I agree to all what you said. Once, down a bit of weight (I have now lost 35kg). I would say the CAAD12, and BMC Teammachine ALR, have been great.
Very helpful advice 👍👍👍
Hello Leonard. I am a beginner in cycling. I have just joined in a cycling club. I am from Brazil. Thanks for the video.
Great video👍
It's not just the bike but also the roads your cycling...
The bikeroads in Germany where i work are awefull..
After trying many bikes i have only good experience with Trekkingbikes
I also own a e-bike..and there the weight is a big problem. Most e-bikes are for max 100 kg inklusief the Person!!
My e-bike is a transsport bike max weight 120 kg
Leo, your conversion of kg to lbs is going to cost you that Nobel prize for physics!!!
Hope to have Happy New Bike day someday, so bought second hand, happy so far!
Like your vids. I am 65, in great health, no comorbidities. I started seriuosly biking in 2020, in Michigan USA where winters are long. I am doing either a 12 or 18 mile ride everyday the weather permits. But my heart rate on treadmill at 3.6 miles per hour at maximum incline, doing 4 miles per day when weather keeps me from biking, is 125-128 beats per minute. I am going to measure my heartbeat when biking in future. Reason i bring this up is because I see in comments much higher heart rates & puzzled. But for my age a maximum 130 heart beats per minute is recommended. Just food for though for the older riders.
Thanks Leonard.
Your video and the comments gave me a smile.I love the Merida Scultura and i save money to get it. But the 120kg weight limit dissapointed me. I am 110kg. I will do my best to lose more weight before i buy it. I love cycling and road bikes are amazing.
Good advice. The only thing I would question would be your choice of gears. A 34 front and 30 back is too high for most heavy riders in my opinion. I would always opt for a higher sprocket count on the back than the front. For example my lowest gear is 36 at the back and 30 on the front (0.83 ratio). This gets me up anything and is so much easier than a 30 back, 34 front (1.13 ratio). This is why I love my old triples with 50,39,30 on the front and 12-36 on the back. This gives a very wide range of gears and does not sacrifice either end of the scale. Trouble with doubles is 34 front is usually the lowest you can get in order to retain a reasonable size big partnering ring of 50 on the front. This limits the lower gear potential. Bike manufacturers are not helping heavier riders here.