How To Choose A Bike (If You Are A Heavier Cyclist)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2024
- How To Choose A Bike (If You Are A Heavier Cyclist)
Choosing a bike can be difficult even at the best of times but if you are a heavier rider you will have a couple of extra concerns. Today, I explain what to look for when buying a new bike, especially if you are a bit on the heavier side.
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The first thing that popped into my head was, "gravel bike." It seems like a reasonable compromise weight-wise, between a road bike a the mountain version.
Endurance bikes usually are a bit heavier and don’t tend to focus so much on weight saving making them more robust. They tend to have a higher weight limit with less aggressive geometry as well.
Handbuilt wheels with higher spoke count and sturdy rims. Lightweight steel frame. Job done.
Thorn Nomad MKII Rohloff
48 Spoke hand built front wheel on a Phil Wood Touring Hub
Bike weighs 17 Kilos 😂. I weigh 120 kilos and will be riding it around Australia……. Slowly
Hand built wheels on every bike I have ever owned
Steel framed / forked all day, every day
I am 185 which I suppose is the light side of this discussion. But Campy Scirroco wheels could go through a mine field without denting or breaking a spoke and they're definitely on the cheap end of the scale.
Its funny when I was 110 kg one of my main motivations to losing the weight was to be able to buy a lighter bike, now I weigh 64.4 kg (as of this morning) I couldn't care less really. At this point I've basically canceled out the weight of my road bike more than 4x over and the couple of Kg I could lose if I threw some serious £££ at a new bike would probably leave me disappointed.
From 110 kg down to 64.4? 😳 How tall are you, how did you achieve this and how long did it take you?
👍
On the other hand, after you lost so much weight, your bike could also have a bit of a diet ;-)
@@jochenkraus7016 funnily enough for a long time I poo pooed the whole aerodynamics thing as another cycling industry gimmick that only applied to pro cyclists, and only really made a difference in lab conditions. But since losing the weight I really notice it now especially on decents (gravity giveth and gravity taketh away) so I think my next bike will probably be aero.
It was new bike day for me today! The financial adviser gave me the go head! Bought a lovely emtb. The climb back up QE is going to be so much more fun now! 😉
I swear by my 2016 Surly Disc Trucker with a Shimano 11-speed drive train. I have it decked out with a Wahoo Elemnt bike computer, Garmin sensors, Varia radar, 4iiii Dual Power Meter, custom built wheels, Specialized Sawtooth 2Bliss 38mm tires with a quiet Onyx rear hub. I really enjoy the longer wheel base. The bike rides like a fine old Cadillac and has the turning radius of a cruise ship. Being a steel frame it has survived four crashes (one with a vehicle) without damage. Just wish I had come out of the crashes myself without damage.
This was a nice video Leonard.
160 kilos here. Tall and heavy. I look for a nice, heavy steel frame from a reputable manufacturer. Good strength and I have never had a cracking issue with the weight bearing parts. One of my go to bikes is a nice, old steel mountain bike from 2002. I put thin rims and tires under it and it rides all day without worries. You are 100% correct on the spokes issue! I started carrying spoke replacement tools so I can switch out a spoke in the field when the go POING!
Always good info here, thank you.
I'm 5'10, and 114kg! I have been riding an Orbea Avant for the past 3 yrs. This year I decided to go electric, and bought a Bianchi Aria E-bike. Absolutely love it. Both bikes are Carbon Frames and great bikes!
Good discussion. I'm 6 feet 3 inches tall and weigh 220lbs so I'm larger than your typical cyclist. I've had custom wheels built in the past with higher spoke counts and using thicker spokes. Never had an issue with the wheels either breaking spokes or wheels going out of true and I rode them hard for thousands of miles.
I once asked the people at Brooks saddles if there was a weight limit on their leather saddles specifically the B17 model because after putting on several thousand miles on a couple of their saddles the tensioning bolt snapped. Brooks told me that they recommend riders not weigh more than about 210 lbs. I found that odd. All they need to do is use a stronger tensioning bolt.
I've had more issues with getting large enough frames. Some manufacturers I cannot ride any of their models. I've had custom built framesets and there are a few manufacturers such as Canyon and Trek which build larger frames for someone like myself.
When you're outside the norm however you'd like to define that our options are more limited unless we go the custom route.
Similar to you in hight and weight.... I have a canyon cf9 endurace...the standard DT Swiss wheels just kept flexing when put under pressure when out of the saddle... Following recommendation and a few calls to ryanbuildswheels, I bought some Aforce AL33 tubeless wheels with a high spoke count... Never had any issues and they roll much faster than the Dtswiss.
Very good advise Leonard. Being 6'' 3' and 210ish, i gravitated to steel. All City, and Surly were where i found the highest quality for the price. The midnight special ships with 47x650b, though will take a 700 without any adjustment. Had it since 2019 and put almost 5000 miles on it. Best thing i've done in years. Cycling is a game changer for heaveir folks looking to improve your fitness. Thanks for sharing.
Cycling is a game changer for us heavy people
Similar height but about 5kg heavier and my carbon bike is handling it fine so far. Weight limits are written by lawyers. Expect a large margin built in
good advice Leonard - for us heavy folks starting out i think you cant go wrong with a hybrid or 'flat bar gravel bike' - the geometry is more comfortable than being stretched out over drops if you are not used to it plus, hybrids are more accessible and can be ridden over multiple surfaces which can help build up confidence better than donning lycra and cliping into a lightweight road bike straight off! Discs are essential for UK weather and roads (for heavier cyclists), compact chainrings are great on road bikes (unfortunately my lowest chainring is only 38T because of the crank bolt spacing), 1x12 on a hardtail running 34 spoke enduro rims and 2.35" tubeless - has been working great for this heavy guy and keeps me away from cars :)
Another good quality content sir.
I'm at 212lbs. Then add on touring weight I'm a tank. Settled on Trek 520. Love it but does leave a need for speed some days. Nice dependable bike. Very informative video. Take care, Al
Treks seem to be pretty strong
Great info and an excellent overview. Another option of course would be a touring bike which is designed to carry more weight and are generally a bit overbuilt, geared a bit lower, etc. Keep up your terrific videos.
I have a tcr sl disc with the isp and have weighed between 235-275 lbs while owning it it's always been A+ just don't over torque the seatmast cap more than 4nm whatever you do and the bike is plenty stiff and the bike is still light and strong and quiet. Never had a spoke break and never heard a noise once the isp was cut dead flat. Shout out to peak torque for setting me straight with his prototype cutting guide for the isp 🙂👍🤙
You showed my bike! I have that Ridley X-Fire only in the disc brake version. It was absolutely a good investment I made before the explosion of the gravel bikes. No need to buy a gravel bike.
Great points for us heavier riders! Thanks for that.
Thanks Borouch.
Handbuilt steel and handbuilt 36spoke wheels for miles and smiles.
Never ridden steel.
@@jollygoodvelo Really? I thought you did some videos a while back on an old 90s steel 26er? Am I thinking of someone else?
Out of curiosity what size bike frames have u tried? Have u tried larger sizes then what your currently riding but come back down to the one your on now?
The wheels are the key.
I have to say, I bought a steel bianchi road bike because I read it was more comfortable on the street-and wow it really is-my aluminum trek frame felt every tiny bump in the road. I LOVE steel and I’m not going back (unless I get an e bike for commuting)
Good video. I noticed I have the same tires on my trek, conti ultra sport.
Great video as always :)
Hand made wheels. Rigid 32/36 hole rims to Shimano qr hubs. DT stainless spokes. Quality tyres with good tread. Get your wheels "tuned" every year when rims can be checked.
Great Leonard, Thanks
I'm now 87Kg. I was MUCH heavier. Today I guided two guys on a c110km ride. I'm pretty sure that we bagged around 2,000m vertical. I still think of myself as a 'fatty' but the eXelius (seen in the video and the bike I rode today) is a huge enabler!
Leonard, it's a year today since we did our 100km ride in Tuscany!
Happy anniversary!!!
Thanks Tim but I seem to remember we did our 100kms on a Sunday so it must have been a year ago last Mon! I know you have been bigger but you aren’t big by any stretch of the imagination now.
I feel oppressed having only the same carbon fibre bike that I bought in 2014. It has even survived through several crashes including a hard crash 2 weeks ago. This bike has worked very well for me even though, at 6'5" and 275 lbs when I bought it, I think I was probably over its safe limit. I didn't have a problem until my weight got up to 305 at which point I started snapping spokes on the rear rim. Apparently a 12 spoke rim was not designed for someone like me, though my mechanics didn't have the balls to be honest with me about that. I solved my problem by getting a steel rim with 24 spokes (I haven't broken a spoke since) and by losing weight through IF. I do think its probably time for a new bike though.
Good sound advice as always
Thanks Heidi
Thank You this was helpful
When I was first starting out cycling about 3 years ago I got an ebike not just because of the hills but also because of my fear of doing a big effort out on the road and not having the steam to get home again. The ebike gave me the peace of mind that even if I was completely wrecked and could barely pedal at least I can make it home.
You might argue disc brakes are better, especially in the wet for heavier rider. But there is a big BUT! Disc brake wheels are weaker, being cross spoked and dished, so you will need more spokes than the equal conterpart of a rim brake bike. Please be aware, disc brake top end road bikes and wheels are built extremely fragile as they are inherently heavier, so manufacturers skimp to keep the weight down.
Good point. I never knew that
I have a Kona Sutra for touring, and a Marin Nicasio for road and gravel. Both steel, love 'em
Good stuff Leonard.
One factor that can impinge on the choice between disc and rim brakes: how often you'll take the wheels out to load your bike into the car.
If you are always popping the wheels off and on then disc brakes can be a pain. They take more time and care.
Good work as usual.
Just learning that about discs
Good points Leonard.
On the wheel depth / strength point, most trusty aluminium box section wheels (say 18mm) will be nice and strong. Touring wheels, designed to take rider and a trips worths of gear on the bike are normally simple boxy aluminium wheels.
I love steel frame Touring bikes. At the moment i"m loving my Kona Sutra. I've had great experiences on a Trek 520 too. And I'm a very heavy guy. Over 130kg. I've also had wheel issues. A hand built wheel is what I'm on now and that's been a revelation. The wheel bike rides amazingly well and even on a heavily loaded (yes, not just my bulk but more) tour the bike performed amazingly well.
The right wheels can make all the difference.
Trek high end aluminum bikes are every bit as good as their carbon bikes and the carbon fork is nothing to worry about since the "tapered" steering tube is stronger than the aluminum equivalent. I was continually concerned with carbon fiber breaking since I had a first generation fork break and give one of the worst concussions you could have without dying. Finally I returned to metal though they have carbon forks. The best ones are stronger than their metal counterparts though if you hit something hard enough they would break rather than bend. But if you hit something that hard you wouldn't be able to ride metal forks home anyway. I just finished my Douglas which was waiting for a seatpost. I am thinking of a test ride today to make sure it's all good. Without water bottles and flat pack it's 16.5 lb so aluminum bikes even for my 6'4" 185 lbs aren't that heavy. And since I'm putting it together from used stuff, even though it's Campy parts it's only about $1,000.
Once again good advice. I've gotten lucky on hardtail mtb. Road bike no luck. Gotten rid of the as fast as I could.
Enjoy
Great tips for shopping! I am not even close to getting a road bike. I had one when I was thinner and it was so much faster that I was afraid of it. I fell in it trying to get my foot out of a toe clip... the old kind. I know I am a so zero fitness level. So, I went looking for the cushy cruiser with multiple speeds, fat tires, and a bike rack for my first aid kit, water bottle, snack, and cell phone. What is it with the bubble gum colors? I am obsessed with finding the right one and I found it and it was really cheap compared to the ones you have been riding. I figure if I can just get rolling I will build up to a 5 to 10 mile ride. LOL. Baby steps they say. Thanks for posting and inspiring me to get rolling!
Don't be afraid to use MTB flat pedals on a road bike if needed. I never got on with clipless so I use them (OneUp Composite in my case). You can pair them with some nice MTB Shoes like Shimano GR5s or Five Tens and have a nice smooth and comfortable setup. It's quite nice to be able to move your feet around for comfort. Unless you are pedalling at a ridiculous cadence of 125+ rpm it really shouldn't matter.
And the upstroke efficiency gain everyone harps on about for clipless is less than a 4% gain on hills - hardly a deal breaker imho.
That's pretty much how i got into the fairly serious cycling I'm doing now. Fitness took off on a mtb on the road and then progressed to a basic road bike. Fitness progressed again to the Trek Domane machine i got now (other brands are available!). Whether just for fun or serious, safe cycling 👍
I have broken frames, wheels, handlebars and seat posts. They only type of bike I use now are touring bikes, they are designed to carry weight and not feel like pedaling a tank.
you can always change out crankset and cassettes on a gravel.....change the tyres for roads and away.....i sometimes think its quite a good compromise as you can simply change things back if you go off roading....
You do a great video, just saying. Great heads-up about carbon steering tube. My own preference for a bike is a Salsa touring bike called Marrakech. All steel. Just a Cadillac. Riders will pass you by, but you ride in complete comfort and get a better workout using the heavier bike. Add wide tires it is a joy to ride. Loved the ""village idiot" comment. That would be me on most days. Thanks Leonard. Be well
I think you are directionally right on most of this but as a fat rider myself (started at 430lbs, now 360) I’d say stay away from any carbon anything. Aluminum is your friend. 36 spoke wheels are a must, as I tried the stock 28, had them professionally rebuilt, they failed, tried a set of 32’s, they failed even after a professional rebuild, and finally had to drop serious coin on a custom set of wheels. Aluminum frames are just about all gonna be fine, my first bike was a hybrid with a special edition for heavy riders. The frame was the same as the regular rider editions. I do have a carbon fork, and it has held up ok, but I am riding a cyclecross bike, so it was made to take a bit more abuse. The thought of any carbon fork on a lightweight road bike makes me cringe. The biggest thing is seating position. If you got a gut, you can’t be slammed, so even tricks like sizing up a hair, to get the seat to bars a little more level is worth it (you can always shrink the stem and slide the seat forward to negate the bigger frame). Good luck.
Nice advice, I haven't had those difficulties as my weight is 91 kilos, but I do have to drop 10 kilos in order to make gear changes easier for my bike
For someone who is really heavy, e.g. 300lb, try a Jones LWB/e. It's their Plus tire bike that is made stout enough for a BIG motor.
I’m 165 lbs dripping wet and still watched the video to learn. I ride recumbent trikes and a long wheel base recumbent and they have a 250-275 weight limit listed by the manufacturers. One can get the frame reinforced by the factories if you go over that weight. The high end trikes have 3x10 gearing to really facilitate climbing . One needs to be fit and agile to negotiate a two wheel recumbent so they are not for the big guys. The trikes are the answer. I have had my new catrike 700 for a few weeks now and it is as fast as anything out there…a rocket ship, stable on climbs and very easy to negotiate the steep grades. Bike selection will be helluva lot easier if folks just drop a few. While picking up my new trike last month an avid rider was picking the shop owner’s brain about getting that last few ounces off his new bike and the shop owner told him to just skip lunch and that would save him a lot,of money on the bike selection.
LOL on weight weinage. Having to dodge potholes on 3 tracks makes skinny tire trikes a challenge here, and 16"wheels are fast, but harsh. I tried 25mm's on my Brommie and it was the same, faster, but way harsh.
Definitely better to lose a few pounds than to spend a fortune on a minutely lighter component.
@@whazzat8015 …I have two Catrikes… one the racing 700 with high psi skinny tires with 700 drive wheel and a 559 with much wider softer tires. It’s like having a Lexus sedan and a Porsche 911. I choose my ride depending on the route. I live in New England and ride exclusively on dedicated trails which are beautiful and everywhere. No road riding for me so I don’t have any potholes to worry about. I’m not getting picked off by some inattentive idiot on his cell phone.
@@markfeldman6509Agree. It is a road, rider, bike fit, not just any one part. I have an ICEXL with2.5 tires for the rougher stuff where an aging but tricked out TouraTech rattles my fillings.Can't have just one ;-)
@@whazzat8015 we need the proper toys/equipment to make the experience safe/fun. I have certain hikes/trikes that are the equipment of choice determined by the route I am taking. My 700 with thin high pressure tires will rattle your innards on uneven trails. As far tiling your,fillings loose….just give me a call….I’m a retired dentist/prosthodontist. I can fix you up fast.
I’ve had the same road bike since 2007 now. A Trek 1.5. It was great for me then. Robust, well built, entry level and looked good too. Due to a few cycling incidents, it was rarely used for 10 years, but in 2019, I decided to get it out again as I was as heavy as I’d ever been at 135kg. I’m not tall, and was morbidly obese apparently. Since then, through riding and very slight changes to what I eat, I’m now down to 81kg and feeling like I did 30 years ago! I still think I’m a bigger rider, but perhaps now, I’m not? But despite new bike day sounding fabulous, the best bike for me is the one I’ve got. I have to say though, I do covet something more aero though!
Bravo!
Congratulations on the weight loss.
What changers did you experience riding at different stages? Esp with climbing and keeping up with a pack? I think 15 year old bikes hit a sweet spot and improvement has sort of plateaued a great deal.
@@whazzat8015 it’s not until recently I really noticed the changes. I was avoiding steep climbs for a long time as the gears on my bike are quite high. 53/39 12/26. But when I got below 85kg, I went looking for them! Some are still tough, but the hills I climb regularly feel amazing! Strava does see the difference though and my effort levels according to my HR are less, my power is up and my speed everywhere is up.
Group rides have been off the menu for so long that comparisons are much harder. Another thing I noticed was bike fit. I must be more flexible now and need a different position ti feel balanced. The stem I have always had felt too short so I switched it for a longer one. Much happier now. The bike fits again. Who knew?!
@@paulbradford6475 😊
I’ve found that being a heavy rider myself, having latex tubes make tires more supple since we have to ride with higher pressures
My current bike is an old Bianchi MTB. I changed the original groupset to a 28-38-48 front and 11-28 in the rear, rolling on 32mm wide tyres on 26" wheels and I kept the flat bar (with bar ends) for now.
Nice.
I don’t normally comment on your films as your information is very good but I thought as a 19 stone 120kg man who recently brought a new trek emtb the shop told me I was too heavy for it and should the brochure which said I was the max weight after contacting trek uk they confirmed that the ebike I wanted in my size xl was fine with my weight no problem at all so always worth checking the manufacture
Any quality frame should do the trick. But ALWAYS upgrade your rims. Go for disc, and choose wide mountainbike rims. For about 500$ you can get rims that are the same weight, but way stronger.
Wheels. I'll add my votes to solid old school wheels. 36 spoke + alloy rim. Bulletproof and will last a lifetime. I still have one I built over 30 years ago, still going strong. I like Campagnolo wheels too, but they state max 120kg.
Mr Leonard, I agree with your points made in this presentation. Any person weighing over 270lbs need not worry about bike weight. I doubt they will be doing any tours at this time.
Also, the heavier bike gives a better workout and will dramatically aide in getting fitter (heart/lungs strengthening), losing weight and building muscles. I have proven this to myself.
And good fit helps you have fun, and do more of it.
It’s great that a heavier bike will give a better workout but I love the feeling when I chance back to a lighter one!
@@whazzat8015 So very true
@@jollygoodvelo That’s the increased strength manifesting.
I am a 100kg rider and had some new wheels built earlier this year. DT Swiss R511 rims, Sapim Sprint spokes, Hope road hubs and Continental GP5000 clinchers. 32 spokes, these wheels are stiff, strong and roll beautifully even though not the lightest. The weight of your bike is of little importance (within reason) for the bigger rider, I have cracked a few lightweight rims, and the ride quality was not as good as these wheels I have now. A good wheelbuilder can give you the best recommendations for your type of riding.
Great sounding wheel build
I started out at about 270. Down to 215 now, with a goal of 170. During a great divide bikepacking trip, broke 4 spokes in my 29" rear wheel. This is a set that I bought specifically for bikepacking. They roll so much better than the 27.5 wheelset that came with the bike. Either the wheel was built incorrectly, or total weight played did it in. I might try a mullet setup with the 27.5 x 2.8 rear and a 29 x 2.4 front until I can find a 29 wheelset that can handle the weight.
Great information Leonard. My road bike frame has a maximum rider weight of 215lbs so I have a 22lb buffer! 🤓
In my experience many road frame weight limits are a little higher
-New bike day seems almost unreachable right now. My Wife gave me the go ahead to buy my first road bike almost two weeks ago & it’s nearly impossible to find a bike in stock. I will say I have been looking at bikes that are great values for the money & are very popular. 🚴🏻♂️
What kind of man are you to need your wife's permission to buy a bicycle?
@@m.amonroy4465 TROLL
Finding anything cycling related is pretty difficult at the moment.
@@m.amonroy4465 The kind of man who will have a long, happy and peaceful marriage.
@@chris1275cc
long: yes
peaceful: yes
happy: I doubt it.
Hi Leonardo.I would like to put my two cents in bike selection.Around 2010 i worked in sales at a Bike shop in Scottsdale Az ( Airpark Bicycle Center ) for couple of years They had 3 mechanics on hand.So when ever a bike needed to be tested,i would be more than happy to test it.To my surprise, many bikes tested when you push hard on the paddle,they do not want to go forward " but backward " even the very pricey bike regardless of material of the frame.Not responsive at all.A very responsive bike,is faster with less efforts in paddling .So before you buy try to test the bike,if you see a bike on your rides.See if they will let you try it on a small hill no more than 3/400 meter.
After testing few bikes you will soon realize what i am talking about,
Ciao Leonardo from Italy
Hi Saverio. That’s an interesting point. I’ve never experienced a bike going backwards when pushing down on the pedals.
@@jollygoodvelo " Backwards " What i was trying to say,when you push on the paddles hard,most bikes they do not react quikly.They are slow/ to react forward.
The best bikes/frame as soon as you hit the paddles they react/shoot forward easly.
After trying many road bikes while i was there i happen to get on a bike not well known.
I bougt one,at the present time i would not gave it up even for the latest 4/5000 dollar frames.
I paid half this amount including Ultegra Di2.
Buonasera Leonardo
@@saveriodipoce2201I think you mean good bikes are highly responsive.
I've got a very average bike but that was the big thing I noticed when I changed to it - how quickly it accelerated compared to my old tech and slightly worn out one. Just a bit of pressure on the pedals and away we zoomed.
@@cyclingsfatsuma9808 Not to many people know about this sort of things.
I found out by trying different bikes,otherwise would never have found out.
There are frames out there very expensive and still when you step on the paddles,you get very litle reaction.What a waste of money.
Ciao from Italy.
A solid gravel bike with 32-ish slicks are fantastic on the road!
Good job.
Thank you for this video. I'm a big guy (25 stone plus), i just wish that manufacturers made bikes for big guys on a budget.
They don’t even make bikes for small guys on a budget anymore.
Come on Leonard clip in 😂👍 Gravel bikes are great choice I think. They tend to come with compact gearing and the extra frame clearance leaves space for bigger tyres giving more support and comfort. Fit a set of road tyres and they fly along the tarmac nicely. I'm a little bias of course...
I wouldn’t mind a gravel bike!
@@jollygoodvelo It's a slippery slope Leonard, before you know it you will be wearing "baggies" using words like "garnry", dropping the "de" from descending and calling everyone "bro"
@@chris1275cc Look at Len's old photos. He's a natural.
Yes....don't do it Leonard 😅😅😅
@@jollygoodvelo I think you would enjoy the freedom to choose road or relaxed road👍 Maybe even a bit of trail here and there????
My choice for wheels is Ambrosio Track Disc with Shimano Deore hubs - no single issue after 4k km of abuse, jumps from curbs & 130kg of combined weight: rider+bags+ bike. Remirex otoh are cheap and bend easily despite similiar wheight claims.
I highly recommend a steel frame (CrMo steel) for a road bike. It's just a bit heavier than carbon fiber, but a lot stronger. But do get an upgraded rear wheel to hold more weight (your weight will be on your rear wheel disproportionately, and that is where you are likely to have problems). The wheels that come standard with the bike are usually not made for us big boys. BTW here in the US, most manufacturers don't list weight limits (except for Trek), so you will need to talk to your local bike shop, and be up front with them.
Yes, all of my wheel issues have been with the rear wheel.
@@jollygoodvelo Also with Shimano R500 wheels?
I read in an old test that they are stiff (sounded like "light, cheap, durable, pick two" applied) and they hold up quite well so far.
Maybe you'd get some longevity from steel. Many years ago I was bought a 10 speed heavy (14.5kgs) touring steel bike when I was 18, still riding it today! (must confess I've never topped 85kgs).
I'm definitely a Clydesdale, and I totally recommend Vuelta Corsa HD rims. They have handled me riding them, and haven't had a single problem with them.
And just remember, the little riders all wish they had our mass when we're going down a big hill!
They can’t keep up with us downhill.
@@jollygoodvelo personal best is 43 mph or 69 kmh. On the climb back up that hill I only did 6 mph though. Lol
@@chriskaufmann I'm 69. Two, or 2.5 decades ago I clocked 52 MPH on a steep downhill in a bike race. At that speed, I learned quickly, the front wheel acts like a rudder. Can't wait to hit 60.
true but my problem is to go downhill I first need to get uphill and that is a total nightmare :-)
@@kingkohlArizbuy a helicopter 😂😂
I have bent a rear axel myself. I got a little bit more selective for components after that.
Brompton is prefect for me :)
Leonard, I am 64 kgs and ride a compact 11-34 and love it. For you heavy riders go for a 36 plus. Your legs will thank you.
getting a good gearing fit really pays off.
I love my triple chain-rings for the same
A touring bike. Trek 520 Disc Touring for example.
Does everything for the heavy cyclist.
Good episode. Is there an optimal weight distribution formula between the front and the back wheels?
Hey Gordon, ideally 50/50 but that is rarely possible.
There are plenty of Raleigh 20s on ebay.
😃🙌🥳🥳👍🚴♀️♥️ man you are a master 😁 riding safe 😉 regards from a peruvian cyclist
Thank you.
Hi I’m 170kg trying to find a fat tyre bike that cope with my weights and little more as I will use it for shopping
Steel bikes are strong, if you avoid high end steel. Something made from reynolds 520 with a steel fork ?
I spy the Isaac road bike used in some of your first ever videos with Tony Childs. God, I feel old :)
That Isaac in the first videos wasn’t mine. I do have an Isaac, though, and it features in some if the later videos.
am skiny guy , 70kg 180cm , but i got ask by heavy friends what bike to get , better option is hybrid . since most heavy rider don t have the flexibilty to reach drop bars , and you are better of with 32-35 with tire than 28 and flat bars disk brake are much cheaper than drop bar , well the bike will not be as fast , but most over 100kg riders probably will not be able to ride faster than 30kmh on flat , and will realy stugle up hill so a mtb gear ratio is better suted , and you can still go prety fast on 36-11 and can clime easy on 24 -34 , than on 34 -28 you will get on road bike , and a 12-14kg hybrid bike vs 7-9kg of road bike will not make that much differance if you are over 100 kg
If buy a steel frame with sensible wheels 32 spokes, you have no problem.
Use wheels made for tandem bicycles.
I just imagine the bikes lined up in the shop saying to each other “don’t catch his eye”.
Lol!
I weigh 215 - 218 lbs and I ride on older rims too but I have never broken a spoke or damaged a freehub. I do rin aluminum rims rather than CF ones.
BTW, For "heavier" riders, I wonder if a recumbent bike might be a good choice? Or even a recumbent trike.
Easy on the back, but can be challenging to get up out of, harder to tote about, small wheels are rougher, less variety. See Mark Feldman's comment below.
50/34 is the shit Leonard. That 34/34 One to One ratio gets me up hills in New Hampshire.... I live in the summer in New Hampshire with tons of over 12 percent grades.. I'm a semi big boy too... whatever 210 pounds is in kilos!
Some gravel bikes have even smaller chainrings like 48/32 :-)
I think that's a great development compared to 53/39 that I have on my old road bike and 50/34 on the one I bought later.
How about a nice Fuji Disc Touring? Why do people forget touring bikes exist? Theyre great!
Do you think riding on an e bike (if I were to use it to commute to work) would lessen my cardio fitness and make it harder to ride a regular bike? I’m just thinking pedal assist might make the 16 mile round trip commute better so I don’t show up to the office all sweaty. I’m also not great on hills.
That’s difficult to say. Generally speaking an ebike will be easier to ride but it doesn’t necessarily mean won’t make it harder to ride a regular bike.
I am a heavy rider lol I ride cannondale bad boy with hydrolic disk brakes it’s a urban fitness bike. It is heavier than a road bike but so far no problems with anything braking
Sounds like a super strong bike
I'm tall and weigh 185 or so and have a miserable time finding the right fit on a bike, and have popped spokes on several occasions and live in fear of snapping an expensive carbon/graphite road bike, so I generally use some heavy duty tank-ish mountain bikes (aluminum I believe). I reckon the problem is that more people fall outside the norm than manufacturers care to think about.
Yes, manufacturers need to realise that is heavier riders need frames too.
If you were popping spokes on the same bike, I would worry about spoke quality. Learning to keep wheels in tune is not a hard skill to gain.
Another good choice for those over 120 kilos would be a hybrid.
hi leonard what do you think about foldable bikes for us heavier riders ?
It really depends on the bike.
Did you have issues with the synapse rear wheel. I have broken a few spokes on mine. They are the ones that came with the bike.
I broke a spoke on the wheels that came with it but since changing to the Spin oN These wheels I’ve had no issues at all.
@@jollygoodvelo cool will check em out.
What seat do you recommend my stock cannondale seat is killing me
I swapped mine out for a Selle Italia one.
Hi Leonard, the link to Tim doesn't appear on Android tablets. Please provide it.
www.inspireditaly.com
Great video and a range of advice. In addition, there's tyres as an option: a 32c tyre at the rear at least can cushion potholes a bit. Get out of the saddle when severe or prolonged stretches of potholes appear. Safe cycling 👍
Most experienced cyclists know what they want & it appears to me most affordable bikes incur compromises, is it an option to just buy a frame & build up each aspect to a spec you desire?
You need technical skills for that.
Hi my raleigh redux 1 brand new have been stolen from our building bikes room and being seen and sold by the thief online . Police no action at all.
So disappointed . But still in love with the idea of riding bike to exercise and losing weight . Hight 162 cm weight 96 kilo.
Any advice for the new bike please.
Thanks
Sorry to hear about the loss of your bike. My first suggestion would be to somehow get the police to retrieve your bike. Failing that, if you were happy with that bike, maybe replace it with one exactly the same.
What do you think about a fat carbon bike .
Sounds like fun
You don't have to get a drop bar road bike either. When I was heavier than I am now I bought a lovely heavy duty commuter bike. The best part was that it was a lot cheaper than a strictly "race" road bike. To each his/her own though 😊 Fortunately there are a lot of bikes out there to choose from!!
I am a ‘fat cyclist’ and unfortunately I only have 7 bikes 😩
My other half reckons we don’t have enough room for
any more.
All my bikes are either Reynolds Steel frames or Aluminium.
Carbon’s not for me.
My ‘chromolly’ Trek multitrack 700 with full mud guards and aluminium Topeak pannier rack with pannier is my preferred baby.
I’ve done 1000s of kilometres on this bike.
My 1st 100 mile ride was done on it.
I love it. I’d go anywhere on it.
One thing I do wish for though is to be fortunate enough to own and ride an ‘Eroica’ style bike.
I tell everyone I keep it real by riding steel.
They just ask why are you fat?
Too much dinner time and not enough seat 🤣🤣🤣
I love those vintage Eroica bikes
Okay, I am intrigued: you tested an electric road bike but still choose to ride analog. Why? My concern is, once I start riding assisted, I'll get so used to it that I won't want to ride my analog bikes. Would love to know your thoughts on this.
I just got an ebike after 38 years of riding all types of bikes. It's in addition to my other bikes not a replacement. Consider riding an ebike as just an alternative. You might ride the ebike on a recovery day allowing the motor to do a fair share of the work. Get a cheaper one to start out and see if it works for you. You can get a great workout on an ebike by using a lower pedal assist level or not using the motor at all.
@@mancello Too late, 😖 Just bought a Pinarello Dyodo. It arrives next week. Hope it doesn’t ruin me! 😳
@@madisonsinclair5123
You can always buy more bikes. If the ebike gets you going , great. The Pinarello looks like it uses assist well. Many find ebikes oversold, over powered, overweight, overpriced. Tuning down the assist, so pedaling adds more, helps. Pinarello uses a pretty light boost motor so looks like the rarer design, and one with a nice ballance
Hey Madision, that is an excellent question and has got me thinking. If you don’t mind I won’t give you an answer here. Instead, I will make a proper vlog about it and post it on the channel. Stay tuned!
@@jollygoodvelo Outstanding. Looking forward to it! Thanks.
Saddles also become more important for those of us with a more manly silhouette
I've been out of touch with new frame technology, but I think it used to be true that Al frames did not age well developing micro fractures on the timescale of 5 years or so and would then fail. Maybe new alloys have addressed that. As for me 6'3"-4" (shrinking with age) and 230 lbs (formerly lighter) and have ridden the same Merlin Ti road for 35+ years. I use Campy factoy wheels and rarely break a spoke. And yes easing the bike over potholes out of the saddle goes a long way to making happy rides. Thanks Leo, always a great vid from you.
If you are really fat (you have to be honest) you may be better off with a hard tail mountain bike of the right size, in my experience bike shops push bikes too big for you. Once you’ve got a bit fitter you’ll have saved up all that cake money to Buy a decent road bike. That’s my story.
Another good video. If there’s a weight limit its probably make out of play dough and will bend or break
Mountain bikes can be great for very heavy riders
My husband weighs 250lbs and rides a Scott Gravel Addict with Roval Terra CL wheels (24 Spoke) don’t fall for the nonsense. Cheap parts may wear quicker but bikes really have no weight limit.
A true cyclist. wiping down your bike making sure the tires are inflated. In the background the car hasn't been washed in months and tires haven't been checked in a year.
If the car has sensors in the wheels, it will complain when the pressure is off ;-)
The car is just the thing that gets me from a to b. I love the bikes
@@jollygoodvelo haha. Same with me with my commuter car. Not my classics though..
@@jochenkraus7016 I usually ignore that for a few more months 😁