Nice and clean, Oh yeah!! I like washing my arcade crt/monitor. Much nicer capping and reflowing a chassis with the board being clean. But on the neck board, it is a good idea to only pull straight back. Twisting and twerking can lead to broken neck pins. I also like to break out the air compressor after rinsing.
Yeah, it's definitely a delicate process for sure. You need to find a gentle balance of getting it loose, yet not pulling too hard to crack the neck board in half. I wash all of my monitors I work on. The one exception being the k4600 due to the delicate width coil. But I do wash the interface cards. I just do the flyback and chassis more delicately with a soft dry paintbrush. If I do wash it (rare) I make sure to remove the width coil by unsoldering it, which you should remove anyway before even looking at it. LoL!
Heh love it! I usually just use Dawn type dish soap -- but Simple Green will work just great too. It's just so much more enjoyable to work on something that isn't super filthy.
I'd say waiting a week is a bit overly cautious, but good advice for people doing their first monitor wash and want to play it safe. Generally you can just put it in front of a fan and it'll be ready in less than a day, sooner with a rotating table, and even sooner with a slightly heated fan. Why it works: As the water molecules evaporate, they are heavier than air and collide with other evaporated particles in the air and recombine back into heavier particles, so essentially the evaporating water creates a layer of more humid air above the board which increases the rate of condensation slowing the rate of evaporation. By using a fan you remove the more humid air from above the board, allowing the rate of evaporation to stay much higher than the rate of condensation, so the board is dry much faster. A rotating table will ensure all areas receive adequate air movement, and a heated fan increases the temp, which reduces the energy needed to evaporate the water.
Great vid Del though I’d probably choose to do it on a softer surface like on a wooden deck or grass. Concrete will scratch the glass or worse if you accidentally tip / knock over the monitor.
Great video! I tried this on one of my monitors but my 99% iso left residue all over the chassis. For when I clean my other monitors, do you think it's safe to go: cleaner > water > distilled water > iso > back to distilled water to wash the residue off?
@@delsarcade I have heard from others that the Japanese monitors, and specifically the Sanyo 20EZ, are susceptible to this. I have washed G07s, 4600, 4900 and K7000 and had no problems so far.
@@delsarcade its usually the older fat neck 9 pin tubes you have to watch ive seen it a lot on samsung and lg tubes the stuff rubs off really easy, you have to be super carful with them, the best ones ive come across are the later 2000s onwards 7 pin thin necks especially Orion tubes no amount of water or solvents will remove the aquadag its my favourite brand of tube for tube swaps and not forgetting the amazing picture they produce.
I did a tube swap shortly after with a fresh burn free donor tube from a TV set. I did it Live in this stream: th-cam.com/video/HIRpGkbHT1o/w-d-xo.html
@@delsarcade Nice, ok, I didn't think a wash would fix that, like you said the hole in monitor doesn't care if liquid goes in and it's vacuumed sealed so not like anything changed inside tube which warrant it being fixed. makes sense once burned it, always burned it ?
STOP USING SIMPLE GREEN 🤮it leaves that residue around all resistors ,use fantastic mr bubbles and it will turn out twice as clean and no residue at all🤘
Nice! There’s just something so satisfying about cleaning a chassis and/or tube.
Nice and clean, Oh yeah!! I like washing my arcade crt/monitor. Much nicer capping and reflowing a chassis with the board being clean.
But on the neck board, it is a good idea to only pull straight back. Twisting and twerking can lead to broken neck pins.
I also like to break out the air compressor after rinsing.
Yeah, it's definitely a delicate process for sure. You need to find a gentle balance of getting it loose, yet not pulling too hard to crack the neck board in half.
I wash all of my monitors I work on. The one exception being the k4600 due to the delicate width coil. But I do wash the interface cards. I just do the flyback and chassis more delicately with a soft dry paintbrush. If I do wash it (rare) I make sure to remove the width coil by unsoldering it, which you should remove anyway before even looking at it. LoL!
Heh love it! I usually just use Dawn type dish soap -- but Simple Green will work just great too. It's just so much more enjoyable to work on something that isn't super filthy.
Agreed!
I'd say waiting a week is a bit overly cautious, but good advice for people doing their first monitor wash and want to play it safe. Generally you can just put it in front of a fan and it'll be ready in less than a day, sooner with a rotating table, and even sooner with a slightly heated fan.
Why it works: As the water molecules evaporate, they are heavier than air and collide with other evaporated particles in the air and recombine back into heavier particles, so essentially the evaporating water creates a layer of more humid air above the board which increases the rate of condensation slowing the rate of evaporation. By using a fan you remove the more humid air from above the board, allowing the rate of evaporation to stay much higher than the rate of condensation, so the board is dry much faster. A rotating table will ensure all areas receive adequate air movement, and a heated fan increases the temp, which reduces the energy needed to evaporate the water.
Great vid Del though I’d probably choose to do it on a softer surface like on a wooden deck or grass. Concrete will scratch the glass or worse if you accidentally tip / knock over the monitor.
Good vid Del.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Given proper music, you could call this video "A hoedown at the hose down." :)
This is a family friendly channel, so... I will leave it as is. LOL
Great video! I tried this on one of my monitors but my 99% iso left residue all over the chassis. For when I clean my other monitors, do you think it's safe to go: cleaner > water > distilled water > iso > back to distilled water to wash the residue off?
Do it again but skip the ISO alcohol. You don't necessarily need it. Distilled water can also be the final step.
I have washed maybe a dozen monitors like this and had no issues. How often does anyone have a problem washing off the aquadag?
I've only done it once. On a Sanyo 20 EZ. Some are water soluble. Super rare though. They can be easily repaired though with the aquadag paint.
@@delsarcade I have heard from others that the Japanese monitors, and specifically the Sanyo 20EZ, are susceptible to this. I have washed G07s, 4600, 4900 and K7000 and had no problems so far.
@@delsarcade its usually the older fat neck 9 pin tubes you have to watch ive seen it a lot on samsung and lg tubes the stuff rubs off really easy, you have to be super carful with them, the best ones ive come across are the later 2000s onwards 7 pin thin necks especially Orion tubes no amount of water or solvents will remove the aquadag its my favourite brand of tube for tube swaps and not forgetting the amazing picture they produce.
did the burn in speed 60 go away ?
I did a tube swap shortly after with a fresh burn free donor tube from a TV set. I did it Live in this stream: th-cam.com/video/HIRpGkbHT1o/w-d-xo.html
@@delsarcade Nice, ok, I didn't think a wash would fix that, like you said the hole in monitor doesn't care if liquid goes in and it's vacuumed sealed so not like anything changed inside tube which warrant it being fixed. makes sense once burned it, always burned it ?
Yup, burn in is irreversible.
STOP USING SIMPLE GREEN 🤮it leaves that residue around all resistors ,use fantastic mr bubbles and it will turn out twice as clean and no residue at all🤘
Rinse it with distilled, then Iso and it will be fine.