Block voltage and amperage, you bring up another teaching point. The effects of amperage on engine coolant. Acidification. Why you need to flush every couple years. Acidified coolant eats gakets and cheap sheet metal water pumps etc
Just want to say that the more I learn about automotive repair the less interesting some of the other channels become because they are rehashing things I've already learned. Your channel on the other hand is a consistent supply of new knowledge.
This is quality. My auto repair experience is mostly mechanical and none of the electronic stuff that my 2001 Jeep GC has. It threw a P0320 this morning and I did a crank pos. sensor swap in the parking lot; now I am watching videos to see if I did the right thing. I stumbled onto your channel and like what I see, keep up the awesome work!
Thank you for another perfect video! That visual explanation of how wigling the conector wake up a sensor is so cool. Also the fact that's sensor/component fault, not conector, is very valuable to anyone trying to repair their own or customer vehicle. Greetings from Serbia.
Great video Paul your content is off the hook and priceless. I actually blew a hole in the muffler before by mistiming a vehicle ( made it run to rich and blew a huge hole in the muffler, (very loud after lol) it really can happen peepz.
Paul Great video as always I know that vehicle has a dis Ignition. But let ohter people know about the cam sensor in the distribitor And when changed you must do a Cam crank correlation adjustment by moving the distribitor to recommended 0 degrees. Love the premium channel and ebook.
The crank sensor is right above the starter, rather easy to get to once you take 10 min and pull the starter. I should know, I've done it 3 times so far troubleshooting sensor issues haha. One thing I may have done to cause my issues is I pressure washed that exact area where the Cam sensor is, I mean I focused the nozzle right on the sensor lol. So, I am going to take that whole wire loom off here today and pull the wires out of the loom and make sure everything is dry as a bone as it was totally fine before I washed the unit. (I washed it because I had a leaking valve cover and it covered the side of the engine with oil and gunk. Wish me luck.
hello my friend today Saturday I was checking the crank sensor signal in the same jeep 4.7 engine , I had to jack it up go under neath remove the starter and key on check the wires , one gray had 5.1 volts , the middle one had ground and the other one had 5.1 volts with the sensor disconnected., put a new crank and still the jeep won't run, no fuel pressure, no injector pulse, no 12 volts to ignition coils, scanner light up because I have batt at pin 16 and ground at pins 4 and 5, but no com, , the tps also have 5 volts ref and 5 volts signal and ground sensor disconnected.. any idea why the jeep won't run? thank you.
So, as a shortcut to checking this system with just the cam sensor code, would it not be prudent to just to do the pull down test and see if the injectors and ignition fires?
Dan: is the pcm shutting down because the senesor is shorting it out...I just had one of these with a crank sensor shorting the whole system with no scan data.
Paul you need to get the extra long test leads for the verus ase wave sells them . I own a set and they work great. You can even do test drive with them !
Does the cam sensor actually control anything? I have a 2002 tj 4.0. The synchronizer was ticking so I replaced it. It runs fine, no codes. Should I bother taking it to get it synced
Won't fire the injectors to start without a cam signal. Because it needs to know if its on intake or exaust stroke to start. If you spray it with starter fluid it will run without a cam signal. I assume the pcm figures out the cam position and doesn't need the signal anymore.
ok hey hi scanner same engine different year its a swap into a dodge that had a 5.7 we got a no com first thing im thinking is check crk cam circuit integrity from this vid i see a no comm can be created from losing a cam crk signal MY QUESTION is being a bypass ign system would you want to also look at communication at ICM since during run its in charge of crank signal and ecm just monitors ???? i keep thinking bypass ign no signal somewhere but now im a little confused i thought you got a U code ONLY when a module that is critical is offline and communicating with module in charge which is ECM (meaning ecm is head module in charge) ??? thank you sir
Hi Paul..with sensor plugged in, if we see zero volts at the sensor we say its a pull down design..suppose we are in a situation where the tooth of the gear is on the sensor or the tooth is close to the sensor this time and we see 5 volts, how will we know if its still a pull down design????
Sensor unplugged is the key to circuit design. A pull-down will show high voltage, a pull-up will not. There are variables of course. Chapter 2 lectures on premium my friend. Are you a member? www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
I'm having a similar issue with my 99 grand with the 4.7l. I had a short to ground in my cam sensor plug. Figured was my harness shorted to ground. Left my meter hooked up and started pulling plugs to pull harness. Short went away when I unplugged the MAF sensor. Replaced and ran no problem. Car sat for 4 months and same problem again. Fm
The left side suspension didn't fall down because the sway bar was holding it up. When the ball joint was separated on the right, they would both fall.
Just had an intermittent no start were the pcm was ignoring the cam signal. I replaced the connection at the pcm first to be sure. FYI don't open those ecm plugs. Omg what a nightmare.
further on that engine it had a no comm when first swapped my buddy who owns vehicle had a dream that it was something in new digital read out in headliner that was swapped into the truck from other truck that had 4.7 in it (i know weird huh but he is a christian pastor too) that was put in -ok i figure the problem in headliner was something to do with a security module or something not communicating and as far as i know when you get a no com on a security module it will prevent vehicle from starting right? ok well he went out and fixed that and truck started running they gave truck a brand new paint job and then it quit working - i did notice a ground strap from block to frame that is missing now before i had seen it dangling on one side now i dont see a strap at all from engine to frame any help is greatly appreciated im trying to master this drivability thing thanks Sam
Good stuff! I agree with one of the other comments about the test lead extensions from AES. They are worth every penny. Just like those acupuncture probes it looks like you are using. Do you think your communication problem could have been due to low cranking voltage? I noticed the cranking speed was getting pretty slow when the comm dropped out. Maybe the pcm quit working right while cranking due to low voltage. I've seen that before. I'm sure you've seen some cars that seem to crank ok but won't start because the voltage is near or below 9.6. PCM goes on strike.
I have a 1997 Nissan pathfinder it's a crank but no start. it has spark, fuel psi is good injectors are working. the starter fuse is showing 0 volts and the fuse is fine not blown what direction would u suggest I take? also when I crank the speedometer tac does not move at all, I was thinking it's the crnk sensr but there is spark. your suggestion would be greatly appreciated!
jessie ruiz if you have no tachometer when you crank and youn have spark ....remember the tach gets its signal somewhere from the primary circuit ...which indicates a good place to start ... and that is straight from a year 2 auto textbookm.. if no tach its fault is either pick up coil /crank sensor /igniton module or igniter/coil primary winding ///.....this vehicle being a 97 might be obd1 though som adjust accordingly based on the system
I have the same problem. No start just crank what I found out so far it's my ASD relay making on and off whit ignition on rapidly. And no Injection pulse and no spark also find broken ground cable from engine to frame and broken ground cable from transmission to frame so u think I still have a bad cam after fixing the grounds?? Also I jump my ASD relay and it does run the car I thought was bad relay but I put another one and with ignition on it does the same ASD relay rapidly clicks and no star ,well it did start once and I thought was relay but I turned off and cracked and go back to no start. Any suggestion Mr. Danner!! I am working on 2000 grand Cherokee 4×4 4.7 thanks god bless.
Post this to my forum Emmanuel. It is free to join and we can help you there. This one requires some research which I can't offer here. Thanks! Hope to see you on the forum. www.scannerdanner.com/forum.html
Paul, I’m really stumped here. I’ve got a 2002 4.7 grand Cherokee with no RPM signal. And no cmp signal. Back probed the cmp signal and it’s all good. Per your info I won’t get a cmp signal without rpm. I can’t seem to figure out the RPM signal? Any help would be awesome! Ckp signal looks good also.
ScannerDanner I had a ckp code. Replaced the sensor. Now no codes present. I got it with a bad engine, swapped the engine and drove it for about two months, then this code came up and it started shifting really crazy and hardly ran. I then got a cmp code, checked it via the computer not with a scope, had one so I threw it on and it ran great for about an hour. I proved the sensor and had good sign wave then probed the computer and had a good sign wave but nothing while watching the scanner. Assumed it was a bad computer so I replaced it with a reman from flagship one. Still nothing from the computer. Still have good signal from the cmp. Upon watching this video I learned that the computer won’t show a cmp signal without an rpm signal, well I don’t show an rpm signal, so that explains the no cmp signal. But what feed the computer with rpm if it’s not the ckp or cmp? Also checked map and tps and both scope out good. Per the specs I have on the Zeus. Thank you for your help!!
Figured it out, the auto shut down relay had corroded contacts and It would intermittently drop voltage. It was super hot! Changed it and everything is working like it should.
so if one did not have a scope to see the signals could i use a test light to check the power and ground on a hall effect sensor harness with it still plugged in and check the signal wire with an ohmeter from pcm to sensor for opens and replace sensor if there isnt an open? just tryin to come up with another method
No but you can use a voltmeter. I have a video on that. It's another jeep. I show the scope method then the voltmeter. A test light would not be good tool on a 5v circuit.
makes sense. can you make a video sometime on finding short circuits an easy way. whats with everyone in the power probe 3?? thats all i hear about here in ohio
+Mahdi Joumazadeh that's a downstream fuel trim number on a system that doesn't use downstream fuel trim. In other words, ignore it, there is no problem there
Using a sensor simulator on this jeep would have made for one very interesting video and would you speculate to say that this jeep might have ran , hopefully in the near future we all may see that , very good video and thank you vary much.
ScannerDanner Thanks for your speedy reply it goes to show you are very focused , just a thought is there such an automotive sensor simulator that does frequency and duty cycle that you know of and thanks again .
Hey Paul , 03 dodge ram 4.7 no start . p0335 crank sensor circuit fault. Customer installed new crank sensor and re manufactured pcm. Scoped the cam and crank at the computer and both signals look the exact same. Looks like a cam sensor signal on both the grey/black and tan/yellow wire at computer. Doesn't make any sense to me. Can both signal wired be touching each other somewhere In the harness? or a bad pcm? if you can give me any info I would appreciate it. thanks!
@scannerdanner Paul! Man over at Schrodingers box channel.He has very interesting case study on his personal car.. Long story short his ltft is not responding with his scan tool.. 5pt series called, test your lean condition.. Man he's bright guy DIY.. But this case study has turned into spaghetti..
Can I say this? There is a lot of good content on the internet and on this channel. I have found myself educated by many other presenter's case studies. I find it hard to put into words, what makes this channel and Paul Danner the best presentation on the web !. I have seen others explain the very same thing but a combination of Paul's teaching skills and delivery has me always returning to his content.
-.- I cant subscribe to your premium channel even if i would like to, cause im from germany and youtube doesnt support the pay channels here. So thats why i hate this videos that leave with just one part of ... something
1kleineMax1 I understand, and it should be available in your country soon. At least you told me why you don't like it, unlike most people who just thumbs down the video and say nothing. The rest of the series is me teaching through Section 2 of my book "switch inputs". So it does help to have this information, but it is not necessary to make this a good and useful video. Perspective is everything. I am providing you with a start to finish case study with great information for FREE! Yet you complain.
ScannerDanner Yeah of course this for free and you make more then just only interessting videos, thats why i subscribed. But i just wanted to point out that it a little bummer when I see only the end of something where might be more. Also my comment sounded maybe more severer that it should be, it was just my feeling of missing ssomething, and i dont gave any thumbdown.
I have a 1997 Nissan pathfinder it's a crank but no start. it has spark, fuel psi is good injectors are working. the starter fuse is showing 0 volts and the fuse is fine not blown what direction would u suggest I take? also when I crank the speedometer tac does not move at all, I was thinking it's the crnk sensr but there is spark. your suggestion would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Paul...i want to know that the mitchell wiring diagrams that you use, does this software include wiring diagrams for Indian cars???? Plzzzz advise me on this...thank you
I dont think so my friend. Post this to my forum. www.scannerdanner.com It is free to join and I have an international community. I'm sure we can advise you on where to get service info.
@@ScannerDanner Hi Paul..m willing to purchase your ebook..i am at the payment page..after making payment in how much time will i be able to access the book????
@@mototechno834 indefinitely my friend, I keep every single eBook purchasers information and recover license codes all the time for buyers all the way back to 2012 when I first started producing it. If you have additional questions email me at support@scannerdanner.com I miss these messages here sometimes. Thank you!
Block voltage and amperage, you bring up another teaching point.
The effects of amperage on engine coolant.
Acidification.
Why you need to flush every couple years.
Acidified coolant eats gakets and cheap sheet metal water pumps etc
Just want to say that the more I learn about automotive repair the less interesting some of the other channels become because they are rehashing things I've already learned. Your channel on the other hand is a consistent supply of new knowledge.
Wow that is a huge compliment. Thanks so much!
This guy is wrong it's on left hand side top of transmission on a 6 cylinder 4.0 and dont unbolt motor mount no need it's do able
This is quality. My auto repair experience is mostly mechanical and none of the electronic stuff that my 2001 Jeep GC has. It threw a P0320 this morning and I did a crank pos. sensor swap in the parking lot; now I am watching videos to see if I did the right thing. I stumbled onto your channel and like what I see, keep up the awesome work!
Thank you for another perfect video!
That visual explanation of how wigling the conector wake up a sensor is so cool. Also the fact that's sensor/component fault, not conector, is very valuable to anyone trying to repair their
own or customer vehicle.
Greetings from Serbia.
Excellent lesson. This vehicle was very sensitive for Cam sensor signal. Great testing lesson for future testing. Regards,
This was another fantastic video. Nothing beats a real world practical explanation
Glad you liked it. Thanks!
Great video Paul your content is off the hook and priceless. I actually blew a hole in the muffler before by mistiming a vehicle ( made it run to rich and blew a huge hole in the muffler, (very loud after lol) it really can happen peepz.
Paul
Great video as always
I know that vehicle has a dis
Ignition. But let ohter people know
about the cam sensor in the distribitor
And when changed you must do a
Cam crank correlation adjustment by moving the distribitor to recommended 0 degrees. Love the
premium channel and ebook.
The crank sensor is right above the starter, rather easy to get to once you take 10 min and pull the starter. I should know, I've done it 3 times so far troubleshooting sensor issues haha. One thing I may have done to cause my issues is I pressure washed that exact area where the Cam sensor is, I mean I focused the nozzle right on the sensor lol. So, I am going to take that whole wire loom off here today and pull the wires out of the loom and make sure everything is dry as a bone as it was totally fine before I washed the unit. (I washed it because I had a leaking valve cover and it covered the side of the engine with oil and gunk. Wish me luck.
Unfortunately the starter has to be moved in order to get to the crank sensor and half the time it'll break off into the block
hello my friend today Saturday I was checking the crank sensor signal in the same jeep 4.7 engine , I had to jack it up go under neath remove the starter and key on check the wires , one gray had 5.1 volts , the middle one had ground and the other one had 5.1 volts with the sensor disconnected., put a new crank and still the jeep won't run, no fuel pressure, no injector pulse, no 12 volts to ignition coils, scanner light up because I have batt at pin 16 and ground at pins 4 and 5, but no com, , the tps also have 5 volts ref and 5 volts signal and ground sensor disconnected.. any idea why the jeep won't run? thank you.
So, as a shortcut to checking this system with just the cam sensor code, would it not be prudent to just to do the pull down test and see if the injectors and ignition fires?
Excellent as always, thanks.
Dan: is the pcm shutting down because the senesor is shorting it out...I just had one of these with a crank sensor shorting the whole system with no scan data.
how I can check cam and crank sensor with two terminal how i know if is faulthy give me and idea where the harness connected
search variable reluctance sensor or VRS on my channel page. I have a hole bunch of 2 wire pickup type sensor testing videos. Thanks!
Paul you need to get the extra long test leads for the verus ase wave sells them . I own a set and they work great. You can even do test drive with them !
I definitely do! I'll be buying them for sure.
Does the cam sensor actually control anything? I have a 2002 tj 4.0. The synchronizer was ticking so I replaced it. It runs fine, no codes. Should I bother taking it to get it synced
Paul I think the loss of communication is a scan tool issue more than anything else. It's a known bug with the Snappy scanners...
hello mister Paul. Can you tell what are those key chip for communication? Is that a standard for all OBD 2 system? Thank you in advance.
Won't fire the injectors to start without a cam signal. Because it needs to know if its on intake or exaust stroke to start. If you spray it with starter fluid it will run without a cam signal. I assume the pcm figures out the cam position and doesn't need the signal anymore.
That will not work with all systems. A waste spark ignition maybe, a cop system, not unless it resorts to pair firing the coils.
ok hey hi scanner same engine different year its a swap into a dodge that had a 5.7 we got a no com first thing im thinking is check crk cam circuit integrity from this vid i see a no comm can be created from losing a cam crk signal MY QUESTION is being a bypass ign system would you want to also look at communication at ICM since during run its in charge of crank signal and ecm just monitors ???? i keep thinking bypass ign no signal somewhere but now im a little confused i thought you got a U code ONLY when a module that is critical is offline and communicating with module in charge which is ECM (meaning ecm is head module in charge) ??? thank you sir
Hi Paul..with sensor plugged in, if we see zero volts at the sensor we say its a pull down design..suppose we are in a situation where the tooth of the gear is on the sensor or the tooth is close to the sensor this time and we see 5 volts, how will we know if its still a pull down design????
Sensor unplugged is the key to circuit design. A pull-down will show high voltage, a pull-up will not. There are variables of course. Chapter 2 lectures on premium my friend. Are you a member? www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
I'm having a similar issue with my 99 grand with the 4.7l. I had a short to ground in my cam sensor plug. Figured was my harness shorted to ground. Left my meter hooked up and started pulling plugs to pull harness. Short went away when I unplugged the MAF sensor. Replaced and ran no problem. Car sat for 4 months and same problem again. Fm
Pin numbers are on the connector usually but hard to see
Or it will have 1 and say 30 and you have to count pins
The left side suspension didn't fall down because the sway bar was holding it up. When the ball joint was separated on the right, they would both fall.
Just had an intermittent no start were the pcm was ignoring the cam signal. I replaced the connection at the pcm first to be sure. FYI don't open those ecm plugs. Omg what a nightmare.
further on that engine it had a no comm when first swapped my buddy who owns vehicle had a dream that it was something in new digital read out in headliner that was swapped into the truck from other truck that had 4.7 in it (i know weird huh but he is a christian pastor too) that was put in -ok i figure the problem in headliner was something to do with a security module or something not communicating and as far as i know when you get a no com on a security module it will prevent vehicle from starting right? ok well he went out and fixed that and truck started running they gave truck a brand new paint job and then it quit working - i did notice a ground strap from block to frame that is missing now before i had seen it dangling on one side now i dont see a strap at all from engine to frame any help is greatly appreciated im trying to master this drivability thing thanks Sam
thanks ScannerDanner
Very good video
Good stuff! I agree with one of the other comments about the test lead extensions from AES. They are worth every penny. Just like those acupuncture probes it looks like you are using.
Do you think your communication problem could have been due to low cranking voltage? I noticed the cranking speed was getting pretty slow when the comm dropped out. Maybe the pcm quit working right while cranking due to low voltage. I've seen that before.
I'm sure you've seen some cars that seem to crank ok but won't start because the voltage is near or below 9.6. PCM goes on strike.
I have a 1997 Nissan pathfinder it's a crank but no start. it has spark, fuel psi is good injectors are working. the starter fuse is showing 0 volts and the fuse is fine not blown what direction would u suggest I take? also when I crank the speedometer tac does not move at all, I was thinking it's the crnk sensr but there is spark. your suggestion would be greatly appreciated!
jessie ruiz if you have no tachometer when you crank and youn have spark ....remember the tach gets its signal somewhere from the primary circuit ...which indicates a good place to start ... and that is straight from a year 2 auto textbookm.. if no tach its fault is either pick up coil /crank sensor /igniton module or igniter/coil primary winding ///.....this vehicle being a 97 might be obd1 though som adjust accordingly based on the system
I have the same problem. No start just crank what I found out so far it's my ASD relay making on and off whit ignition on rapidly. And no Injection pulse and no spark also find broken ground cable from engine to frame and broken ground cable from transmission to frame so u think I still have a bad cam after fixing the grounds?? Also I jump my ASD relay and it does run the car I thought was bad relay but I put another one and with ignition on it does the same ASD relay rapidly clicks and no star ,well it did start once and I thought was relay but I turned off and cracked and go back to no start. Any suggestion Mr. Danner!! I am working on 2000 grand Cherokee 4×4 4.7 thanks god bless.
Post this to my forum Emmanuel. It is free to join and we can help you there. This one requires some research which I can't offer here. Thanks! Hope to see you on the forum.
www.scannerdanner.com/forum.html
Paul, I’m really stumped here. I’ve got a 2002 4.7 grand Cherokee with no RPM signal. And no cmp signal. Back probed the cmp signal and it’s all good. Per your info I won’t get a cmp signal without rpm. I can’t seem to figure out the RPM signal? Any help would be awesome! Ckp signal looks good also.
What codes do you have? What is the history with this? I assume it is a no start
ScannerDanner
I had a ckp code. Replaced the sensor. Now no codes present. I got it with a bad engine, swapped the engine and drove it for about two months, then this code came up and it started shifting really crazy and hardly ran. I then got a cmp code, checked it via the computer not with a scope, had one so I threw it on and it ran great for about an hour. I proved the sensor and had good sign wave then probed the computer and had a good sign wave but nothing while watching the scanner. Assumed it was a bad computer so I replaced it with a reman from flagship one. Still nothing from the computer. Still have good signal from the cmp. Upon watching this video I learned that the computer won’t show a cmp signal without an rpm signal, well I don’t show an rpm signal, so that explains the no cmp signal. But what feed the computer with rpm if it’s not the ckp or cmp? Also checked map and tps and both scope out good. Per the specs I have on the Zeus. Thank you for your help!!
Forgot to mention I did check the power and grounds at the Ecm and both 12v and 5v are good and grounds are good.
Figured it out, the auto shut down relay had corroded contacts and It
would intermittently drop voltage. It was super hot! Changed it and everything is working like it should.
Is that a Hall effect sensor or variable reluctance?
Hall effect
Great video Paul how much is your premium channel thanks Mike in florida
It is $10 per month
so if one did not have a scope to see the signals could i use a test light to check the power and ground on a hall effect sensor harness with it still plugged in and check the signal wire with an ohmeter from pcm to sensor for opens and replace sensor if there isnt an open? just tryin to come up with another method
No but you can use a voltmeter. I have a video on that. It's another jeep. I show the scope method then the voltmeter. A test light would not be good tool on a 5v circuit.
makes sense. can you make a video sometime on finding short circuits an easy way. whats with everyone in the power probe 3?? thats all i hear about here in ohio
I have one. Let me find it. It was on a buick Skylark I think.
It is three parts. Here is part 2
How to locate an intermittent short to ground (Mazda Miata case study part 2)
is there anything you cant figure out on a car?! your a good tech? or teacher at your school! keep up the good work
i have question .i got 99.2 in few car at long term ,why ? somthing is wrong
+Mahdi Joumazadeh that's a downstream fuel trim number on a system that doesn't use downstream fuel trim. In other words, ignore it, there is no problem there
don't you missing something?
the position of the cam where is positioned at the time of the test
very educational
Using a sensor simulator on this jeep would have made for one very interesting video and would you speculate to say that this jeep might have ran , hopefully in the near future we all may see that , very good video and thank you vary much.
It wouldn't have due to timing issues. No way to simulate the signals with the correct frequency and duty cycle. (Not an even signal)
ScannerDanner Thanks for your speedy reply it goes to show you are very focused , just a thought is there such an automotive sensor simulator that does frequency and duty cycle that you know of and thanks again .
Hey...I lost access to the ebook........help
Just sent you an email ric, to get you back up and running.
Let me know you received it. Thanks!
Got it.......thnx
4.7 engines were notorious for having shorted crank sensors that caused a no communication problem and no start complains.
Hey Paul , 03 dodge ram 4.7 no start . p0335 crank sensor circuit fault. Customer installed new crank sensor and re manufactured pcm. Scoped the cam and crank at the computer and both signals look the exact same. Looks like a cam sensor signal on both the grey/black and tan/yellow wire at computer. Doesn't make any sense to me. Can both signal wired be touching each other somewhere In the harness? or a bad pcm? if you can give me any info I would appreciate it. thanks!
Just scope the cam shaft sensor to test it.
Isn't that what I did? Sorry for the explanation of circuit design and adding the variables. You didn't find it useful?
Good
@scannerdanner Paul! Man over at Schrodingers box channel.He has very interesting case study on his personal car.. Long story short his ltft is not responding with his scan tool.. 5pt series called, test your lean condition.. Man he's bright guy DIY.. But this case study has turned into spaghetti..
Can I say this? There is a lot of good content on the internet and on this channel. I have found myself educated by many other presenter's case studies. I find it hard to put into words, what makes this channel and Paul Danner the best presentation on the web !. I have seen others explain the very same thing but a combination of Paul's teaching skills and delivery has me always returning to his content.
Thanks Tom!
that crank sensor is behind the pass tire well lol a real p.i.t.a
-.- I cant subscribe to your premium channel even if i would like to, cause im from germany and youtube doesnt support the pay channels here. So thats why i hate this videos that leave with just one part of ... something
1kleineMax1 I understand, and it should be available in your country soon. At least you told me why you don't like it, unlike most people who just thumbs down the video and say nothing. The rest of the series is me teaching through Section 2 of my book "switch inputs". So it does help to have this information, but it is not necessary to make this a good and useful video. Perspective is everything. I am providing you with a start to finish case study with great information for FREE! Yet you complain.
ScannerDanner
Yeah of course this for free and you make more then just only interessting videos, thats why i subscribed. But i just wanted to point out that it a little bummer when I see only the end of something where might be more.
Also my comment sounded maybe more severer that it should be, it was just my feeling of missing ssomething, and i dont gave any thumbdown.
Chrysler ecm's. Huuugh
I have a 1997 Nissan pathfinder it's a crank but no start. it has spark, fuel psi is good injectors are working. the starter fuse is showing 0 volts and the fuse is fine not blown what direction would u suggest I take? also when I crank the speedometer tac does not move at all, I was thinking it's the crnk sensr but there is spark. your suggestion would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Paul...i want to know that the mitchell wiring diagrams that you use, does this software include wiring diagrams for Indian cars???? Plzzzz advise me on this...thank you
I dont think so my friend. Post this to my forum. www.scannerdanner.com
It is free to join and I have an international community. I'm sure we can advise you on where to get service info.
@@ScannerDanner Hi Paul..m willing to purchase your ebook..i am at the payment page..after making payment in how much time will i be able to access the book????
@@mototechno834 indefinitely my friend, I keep every single eBook purchasers information and recover license codes all the time for buyers all the way back to 2012 when I first started producing it. If you have additional questions email me at support@scannerdanner.com
I miss these messages here sometimes.
Thank you!