Good stuff Mackie. I bit the bullet and ordered a new reg/rec, so I was looking for info on how to replace it. It's cool I don't have to dismantle half the bike. Cheers mate.
I ended up replacing it 3 times in 56l miles... I think it lets the bike down, one faulty part like this. They should owned up to it and recall them faulty ones for use.
My 2014 was doing exactly the same. Removed reg/rec and found a little oily residue in the grey socket. Tested the unit and it fell within prescribed limits e.g. Was good. I've replaced it with new and all my problems have gone. Fully sorted now thank you. The oily residue is the resin that the diodes are set in that has melted.
Hello my friend from Sturgis! Still making time to watch your channel between incredible riding. This trip about 4500 miles Houston, to Sturgis (week of riding badlands, Black Hills, etc., then to Chicago (what a mess?) then finish getting our kicks on Route 66 before heading back to Hot Houston, TX! Anyway, I love working on my machines. It connects you with your bike. A real sense of zen knowing you restored it to prime running condition. Be safe! Kenny and Kelly
MackieBass we have simply got to have a bier or three, or ?? Sometime, somehow. If you find yourself anywhere near Houston TX you MUST stay here! We have much to discuss ! Over bier, of course! I do miss my Bavarian, French, Dutch, Scottish, Irish, Welsh, Italian, Swiss, Belgian, Lichtensteinian (? Is that... never mind) friends very much! English friends...well, ok, maybe a little too ;)
Wow, thanks mucho for the video! I have the identical problem, right down to the engine oil in one side of the R/R. I would have wasted a lot of time if not for you. Ordered a new one, I’ll let you know, but I confident it’ll work out.
@@MackieBass I replaced it last week and it cured all the weird things going on with my bike, quite the magic bullet! Thanks for your video, I wouldn't have had the confidence without it 😁
Thank you very much. I've got the same Problem on my Tiger 800 2015 XRX. Engine Problems (similar to like dirty injectors) occassionally Fuel-Injector Problems or Error codes, which were not persistent... The flickering Lights came only recently and from there on, I knew, something was off. Voltage on Battery: 15.5+V when Engine is running Idle. Changed the LIMA - Regulator... and boom, everything works fine. Engine runs smooth again like new :) Without your Video, I probably would have invested more time in troubleshooting on the problem.
hiya Mackie, yes a reg/rec can be tested, but it should not have oil in it or on the connections, looks like the voltage regulator side was the problem, congrats on fixing it and hopefully the end of the problem
Ah the mysteries of electrickery. That's a waterproof connector - clean oil like that could only be added manually or leaking out of the rectifier - I guess a symptom of the rectifier dying. Excellent work! :)
My friend had a similar problem, poor reg/rec and it ruined most the the electrcal parts i.e. ecu, clocks, stator and lights. Mosfet type reg/rectifiers are said to be far better, less heat more stable dc voltage.
That device was the only failure i had on my Kawasaki ZZR600, which I done 100k miles on... Flickering lights, and it used to kill batteries. They do all burn out eventually. I'm amazed it's so close to the engine with all that heat there... My one was under the seat
Yes I know...what a place to put it, directly behind the radiator, probably the hottest place on the bike. The one on my KTM was mounted on th ebottom behind the front wheel, which means all the crap from the road was hitting it directly, a bit stupid if you ask me.
Great work. I too had a problem with RR in ny 2016 Tiger 800 xrx. It came with FH020AA but didn't find replacement in the store and got a used FH009AA and installed. The voltage at idle is 13.95 but doesn't go above even revving at 6-7000 rpm. Is it good idea to go with the FH009AA or get the same model. Worried about stator burn and ECM issues. Datasheet for FH009AA not available, please suggest.
The unit failed on me 3 times in total. Last time it left me stranded in Italy and nearly ruined my European trip. Luckily I managed to find a dealer in Switzerland who sold me the new and upgraded part. We'll see how long it will last this time. Apparently the new ones are upgraded.. time will tell.
very very common fault on triumph triples . Mine died the day I bought it on my sprint st1050.. luckily was changed under warranty ..a month later the head gasket went !! not related to the reg rec of course ...luckily got a refund and the bandit as a good will gesture. !! at least I can fix the bandit 👍🏻☮❤
@@MackieBass it's a 1200 .. I've had a few now keep going back to them ..live the simplicity.. literally just passed mot 1/2 hour ago ..mot guy loves me because of my OCD.. when I took it in he said ..its one of yours it'll pass 👍🏻☮❤
Great result! Expensive but result! Hate to bring it up but dying for an update on the TU how has the testing being going? Sorry if you wanted to forget about it for a bit but dying to see how that goes lad!! You still have your hair so not too bad I hope? Cheers Mackie for the brilliant content. 😎
Hey, don't throw the rectifier away, you can very easily test it with your multimeter. It looks like a 3 phase rectifier and the flickering is most probably caused by a faulty diode in the rectifier. When diodes fail, they become short circuits, not open circuits. So one (or more) phases of AC coming out of the alternator (I imagine it is a magneto) gets shorted, hence the flickering. Usually, on those exposed connectors, dialectric grease is used to both isolate the sockets from elements and preserve a good, solid electric connection. I believe that someone tried using oil (?) to get the same effect, but oil does not work for that purpose. th-cam.com/video/-2jWIkhy1fo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Alex, but even if I did test it...this is not a serviceable part, so I couldn't fix it anyway. Replacing the part solves the problem - one happy Mackie :)
Please Pin this comment! Great video BUT the problem is a bit more complicated: That oil, actually is not from where yout think it is. It actually comes from the engine trought the stator cables ( due to pressure in the engine). How to solve the issue in 6 steps( not Tested yet but I will make a video about it) 1. take the stator cable+plug out and cut it half way 2. add some single wire 2way crimp on each yellow cable ( this way you reconnect the cutted cables) 3.cut a bit of the wire black plastic protection ( 3cm) out. ( this will give some space for blugs). You will find that protection with oil signs in it. 4. Reroute the cable back to it's place 5. Replace the Reg/Rect ( is probabbly fried) and Reconnect all the plugs ensuring that all the pins have a stiff connection 6. Check with multimeter the charging values. Bassically what have you done? Now the oil coming from the stator will stop on that connection and not going forther to the Reg/Rect.
Hello from Brazil! I had the exact same problems, flickering, delay to start and high/low idle. I have replaced the rectifier and the flickering and idle problems are gone, but the bike still has the delay to turn on, any ideas? Have all the problems been gone after the rectifier replacement?
Well, yes. It all went away until it broke again - stopped charging completely after about 3 weeks. So I replaced the rec/reg again with one that costs £160 (good one) and it has been good as gold ever since. Fingers crossed this is the of this problem. And no, nothingelse I changed and the delay start went away with the regulator repalcement. try charging the batery (or even fit a new one if you can) Good luck and let me know.
Did it also struggle to idle when the radiator fan is on? Like idle flickers very much as soon as fan kicks on and sometimes goes to 500rpm also and then the bike stalls.
It wasn't cheaper, it was like for like. It broke within a month. More expensive one lasted 3 years. I had to replace it 13k miles later, which was this summer. There's clearly an issue with this unit by Triumph!
You're thinking of transformers. The big, industrial ones! On this types of electronics conformal coating is used. That's just a fancy name for a polymeric resin of sorts that is poured hot and cures solid preventing damage from vibrations and/or water.
oil can work its way up through the 3 yellow wires from the stator, you can test the reg/rec by turning your multimeter to ohms, and test them between each other, and the red and black on the other connector, one at a time. there is a good vid on you tube about it, heres one for the stator testing th-cam.com/video/5v2LtHlvcqI/w-d-xo.html and another for your reg/rec th-cam.com/video/NTjumDgixkQ/w-d-xo.html there good vids on it. but i would say to any one, first test the stator after you have checked all connectons for black burnt out connections. and then test the reg/rec. but yeah, oil over time can work its way up through the wire casing from the stator housing, with capilory action. I could be wrong because i cant test it my self from here, but it could be the stator grounding out, thats why your lights are flicking, you will find out if your test it all, its not that hard to do.........well done for the fix, thats what i get for jumping to the key board and not watching your vid all the way through, with the dog wanting a walk,i only watched the first half of your vid when i started typing, and now just watched it all again lol, so ignore what i typed about stator and stuff, but the thing with the oil is still what i said capilory action.
@@MackieBass cool, obviousley the oil takes time to work its way up the inner sheath of the cables, so now that you have cleaned the connections, it mite take another 20-30,000 or more to get that much in them again, its not like its draining you sump when it does this. and from oil change to oil change you will never notice the small amout of oil it uses, probably in the very small cc region of oil it takes to get up to you connector blocks.
Good stuff Mackie. I bit the bullet and ordered a new reg/rec, so I was looking for info on how to replace it. It's cool I don't have to dismantle half the bike. Cheers mate.
I ended up replacing it 3 times in 56l miles... I think it lets the bike down, one faulty part like this. They should owned up to it and recall them faulty ones for use.
My 2014 was doing exactly the same. Removed reg/rec and found a little oily residue in the grey socket. Tested the unit and it fell within prescribed limits e.g. Was good. I've replaced it with new and all my problems have gone. Fully sorted now thank you. The oily residue is the resin that the diodes are set in that has melted.
I'm glad it worked for you. Mine has been ace ever since!
Hello my friend from Sturgis! Still making time to watch your channel between incredible riding. This trip about 4500 miles Houston, to Sturgis (week of riding badlands, Black Hills, etc., then to Chicago (what a mess?) then finish getting our kicks on Route 66 before heading back to Hot Houston, TX! Anyway, I love working on my machines. It connects you with your bike. A real sense of zen knowing you restored it to prime running condition. Be safe! Kenny and Kelly
Wow! that sounds epic! What an adventure, definatelly on my bucket list!
MackieBass we have simply got to have a bier or three, or ?? Sometime, somehow. If you find yourself anywhere near Houston TX you MUST stay here! We have much to discuss ! Over bier, of course! I do miss my Bavarian, French, Dutch, Scottish, Irish, Welsh, Italian, Swiss, Belgian, Lichtensteinian (? Is that... never mind) friends very much! English friends...well, ok, maybe a little too ;)
Wow, thanks mucho for the video! I have the identical problem, right down to the engine oil in one side of the R/R. I would have wasted a lot of time if not for you. Ordered a new one, I’ll let you know, but I confident it’ll work out.
Cheers for this, my Tiger has just started to do exactly the same things (2013 plate 40'000 miles) so looks like a new r/r time!
Yes, 6k + miles since, not a single problem
@@MackieBass I replaced it last week and it cured all the weird things going on with my bike, quite the magic bullet! Thanks for your video, I wouldn't have had the confidence without it 😁
Awesome thanks for letting me know! Happy days
Thank you very much.
I've got the same Problem on my Tiger 800 2015 XRX.
Engine Problems (similar to like dirty injectors) occassionally Fuel-Injector Problems or Error codes, which were not persistent...
The flickering Lights came only recently and from there on, I knew, something was off.
Voltage on Battery: 15.5+V when Engine is running Idle.
Changed the LIMA - Regulator... and boom, everything works fine. Engine runs smooth again like new :)
Without your Video, I probably would have invested more time in troubleshooting on the problem.
hiya Mackie, yes a reg/rec can be tested, but it should not have oil in it or on the connections, looks like the voltage regulator side was the problem, congrats on fixing it and hopefully the end of the problem
So far so good man!
Ah the mysteries of electrickery. That's a waterproof connector - clean oil like that could only be added manually or leaking out of the rectifier - I guess a symptom of the rectifier dying. Excellent work! :)
Yes, connector is dry as you like it. I don't know what's inside these units...and if I'm honest I'm too busy to find out :)
My friend had a similar problem, poor reg/rec and it ruined most the the electrcal parts i.e. ecu, clocks, stator and lights. Mosfet type reg/rectifiers are said to be far better, less heat more stable dc voltage.
That device was the only failure i had on my Kawasaki ZZR600, which I done 100k miles on... Flickering lights, and it used to kill batteries.
They do all burn out eventually.
I'm amazed it's so close to the engine with all that heat there... My one was under the seat
Yes I know...what a place to put it, directly behind the radiator, probably the hottest place on the bike. The one on my KTM was mounted on th ebottom behind the front wheel, which means all the crap from the road was hitting it directly, a bit stupid if you ask me.
@@MackieBass end of the day, everything these days is decided by cheapness, and for some reason, that was the cheapest place to fit it
good stuff mackie, as always informative and interesting . keep the content coming . we appreciate it enormously
Cheers man, good to hear bro!
Hi, good job Mackie. Those RR are expensive but you provably saved another £60 if it burn your battery, enjoy it , Thanks, Gus
Well, it's a running cost really. 45K miles, can't expect it to last forever...
I’ll keep that in mind if I hang onto my Tiger. Thank you.
Why wouldn't you hang onto it? Such a good bike!
Great work. I too had a problem with RR in ny 2016 Tiger 800 xrx. It came with FH020AA but didn't find replacement in the store and got a used FH009AA and installed. The voltage at idle is 13.95 but doesn't go above even revving at 6-7000 rpm. Is it good idea to go with the FH009AA or get the same model. Worried about stator burn and ECM issues. Datasheet for FH009AA not available, please suggest.
The unit failed on me 3 times in total. Last time it left me stranded in Italy and nearly ruined my European trip. Luckily I managed to find a dealer in Switzerland who sold me the new and upgraded part. We'll see how long it will last this time. Apparently the new ones are upgraded.. time will tell.
Happy days, nicely sorted mate, go have a beer :)
OK..you convinced me!
Well done mackie 🇬🇧👍
Ta!
very very common fault on triumph triples . Mine died the day I bought it on my sprint st1050.. luckily was changed under warranty ..a month later the head gasket went !! not related to the reg rec of course ...luckily got a refund and the bandit as a good will gesture. !! at least I can fix the bandit 👍🏻☮❤
The Bandit.
A SERIOUSLY Underrated Bike today.
Gotta love the bandit! Was it 1200 or 600? Both equally good fun!
@@MackieBass it's a 1200 .. I've had a few now keep going back to them ..live the simplicity.. literally just passed mot 1/2 hour ago ..mot guy loves me because of my OCD.. when I took it in he said ..its one of yours it'll pass 👍🏻☮❤
Can you post as to where you got it from please
I just googled it, and it came up, so I used one of the links online.
Great result! Expensive but result! Hate to bring it up but dying for an update on the TU how has the testing being going? Sorry if you wanted to forget about it for a bit but dying to see how that goes lad!! You still have your hair so not too bad I hope? Cheers Mackie for the brilliant content. 😎
Tiger works...the TU does't... grrrrr
btw the after market ones are way better according to long term owners ..
my original blew at
20k.. oil may be from inside the reg rec..? 👍🏻☮❤
Yes, that's what I've heard...alos you get better value for you money, as you don't pay for the brand, simple.
Hey, don't throw the rectifier away, you can very easily test it with your multimeter.
It looks like a 3 phase rectifier and the flickering is most probably caused by a faulty diode in the rectifier.
When diodes fail, they become short circuits, not open circuits.
So one (or more) phases of AC coming out of the alternator (I imagine it is a magneto) gets shorted, hence the flickering.
Usually, on those exposed connectors, dialectric grease is used to both isolate the sockets from elements and preserve a good, solid electric connection.
I believe that someone tried using oil (?) to get the same effect, but oil does not work for that purpose.
th-cam.com/video/-2jWIkhy1fo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Alex, but even if I did test it...this is not a serviceable part, so I couldn't fix it anyway. Replacing the part solves the problem - one happy Mackie :)
@@MackieBass The idea is learning to diagnose them so that in the future you can find a fault more easily.
You know, like a pathologist!
@@bikesmith Pathologist...I like it!
Please Pin this comment!
Great video BUT the problem is a bit more complicated:
That oil, actually is not from where yout think it is. It actually comes from the engine trought the stator cables ( due to pressure in the engine).
How to solve the issue in 6 steps( not Tested yet but I will make a video about it)
1. take the stator cable+plug out and cut it half way
2. add some single wire 2way crimp on each yellow cable ( this way you reconnect the cutted cables)
3.cut a bit of the wire black plastic protection ( 3cm) out. ( this will give some space for blugs). You will find that protection with oil signs in it.
4. Reroute the cable back to it's place
5. Replace the Reg/Rect ( is probabbly fried) and Reconnect all the plugs ensuring that all the pins have a stiff connection
6. Check with multimeter the charging values.
Bassically what have you done?
Now the oil coming from the stator will stop on that connection and not going forther to the Reg/Rect.
Hello from Brazil! I had the exact same problems, flickering, delay to start and high/low idle. I have replaced the rectifier and the flickering and idle problems are gone, but the bike still has the delay to turn on, any ideas? Have all the problems been gone after the rectifier replacement?
Well, yes. It all went away until it broke again - stopped charging completely after about 3 weeks. So I replaced the rec/reg again with one that costs £160 (good one) and it has been good as gold ever since. Fingers crossed this is the of this problem. And no, nothingelse I changed and the delay start went away with the regulator repalcement. try charging the batery (or even fit a new one if you can) Good luck and let me know.
This video is amazing thank for the information ℹ️ your a top man ✊💙
Glad to help
Did it also struggle to idle when the radiator fan is on? Like idle flickers very much as soon as fan kicks on and sometimes goes to 500rpm also and then the bike stalls.
Same as mine was... not happened since!
Don't you hate it when the '''fix' ends up being expensive?
😉 ... but it's always worth it when it works, eh? Well done, Mackie! 👍🤘 🏍
That's it mate, if it works I'm happy. Need to keep the old girl on the road!
Did you replace it with an cheaper RR and it broke again? Then you used an expensive one and no more problem?
It wasn't cheaper, it was like for like. It broke within a month. More expensive one lasted 3 years. I had to replace it 13k miles later, which was this summer. There's clearly an issue with this unit by Triumph!
Good fix M-B congrats. Hey - what happened to the little Suzuki that you had with the carb problem?
It's not the carb problem..the little suzuki is just fooked! LOL
What model Triumph is this bike?
As per the title... Tiger. 800.
The oil maybe coming from the rectifier I think they are oil filled
You're thinking of transformers. The big, industrial ones!
On this types of electronics conformal coating is used. That's just a fancy name for a polymeric resin of sorts that is poured hot and cures solid preventing damage from vibrations and/or water.
@@bikesmith That's clever!
£275 for my 2003 955i ouch!
oil can work its way up through the 3 yellow wires from the stator, you can test the reg/rec by turning your multimeter to ohms, and test them between each other, and the red and black on the other connector, one at a time. there is a good vid on you tube about it, heres one for the stator testing th-cam.com/video/5v2LtHlvcqI/w-d-xo.html and another for your reg/rec th-cam.com/video/NTjumDgixkQ/w-d-xo.html there good vids on it. but i would say to any one, first test the stator after you have checked all connectons for black burnt out connections. and then test the reg/rec. but yeah, oil over time can work its way up through the wire casing from the stator housing, with capilory action.
I could be wrong because i cant test it my self from here, but it could be the stator grounding out, thats why your lights are flicking, you will find out if your test it all, its not that hard to do.........well done for the fix, thats what i get for jumping to the key board and not watching your vid all the way through, with the dog wanting a walk,i only watched the first half of your vid when i started typing, and now just watched it all again lol, so ignore what i typed about stator and stuff, but the thing with the oil is still what i said capilory action.
Cool beans, I will have a look at it
@@MackieBass cool, obviousley the oil takes time to work its way up the inner sheath of the cables, so now that you have cleaned the connections, it mite take another 20-30,000 or more to get that much in them again, its not like its draining you sump when it does this. and from oil change to oil change you will never notice the small amout of oil it uses, probably in the very small cc region of oil it takes to get up to you connector blocks.
14.7v is high.
James nearly every bike and car charges at 14.7V withe the engine running.
Not for a running engine, I think that's about right.
no prosze. a ja myslalem ze ty bardziej chopper/cruiser jestes.
Stary, w garazu stoi Harley, Troump Tiger, i Supermoto..scigacz by sie jeszcze przydal i naked... byle by byly dwa kolka ;)