The lathe is a 1962 vintage, used in tool room all of it's life before I got it. Thanks very much for the beautiful work, Adam!! Now to just start putting it all together when the snow starts to fly...great winter project in the heated cellar.
I have a 10 inch delta Rockwell lathe circa 1964. Mine has the motor under the lathe and the speed is controlled by a snowmobile clutch like thing. So do you have the adapter that fits in the spindle by chance? My lathe has I believe a 1 1/8 (1/4 ? ) spindle opening if, you have one and it fits my parameters could you tell me what taper it is (od)...I don't have one and not much info on said adapter I believe it is like a B & S 3 taper ...
@@chrischapel9165 The taper in the spindle bore is Morse Taper 3, I'm pretty certain. Mine is a benchtop, motor behind, but it still has the Reeve's drive (snowmobile clutch thing) too.
@@tonyc.4528 Tony thanks for replying etc...I can only wish mine was a 3 mt...I have made one for mine and I got the spindles B&S taper info from a British video etc . So I made one and it fits good with almost 100% contact over the whole adapter. I bored it out ,reamed the ID with a mt 2 to fit most of my tooling and it drills great BUT, IF I can get that OD perfect! ahh striving to remove that thousandths LOL... thanks Tony
I'm not sure you understand just how refreshing it is to see that I'm not the only one who uses a hacksaw on their lathe for parting... Sometimes, it just has to be. Thanks, Adam.
If he had steadied the free end of that shaft it would have parted off easily without chatter. I sometimes use a cardboard tube over the OD or put the end in the tailstock bore. That fix will work till the cows come home.
Great Decision and Teaching Others in stopping and using the Hacksaw. When you saw something not right you stopped and did something about it. Great Lesson.
This episode is about two (2-3) weeks too late for me. I have a Boyer/Shultz 6X12 inch surface grinder. The lead screw for the up and down motion of the grinder head was just about worn thru. I fixed the lead screw about the same way you did. Just did one thing different I removed about one inch of thread near the "handle" of the old lead screw and cut 3/8" X 24 Tpi. male thread on that piece and cut the rest of the old thread of the handle. I purchased a new "acme all thread" (3/4" X 7 Tpi). I drilled and taped the female threads into the acme "all thread" at one end. The part that was most difficult for me was making a replacement nut. I ordered some round bar 932 bearing bronze and bought an acme 3/4" X 7 Tpi. tap and cut the internal acme thread. The part that was the biggest challenge for me was cutting a .0.962" X 32 Tpi X 1/2" single point external threads into the bronze nut. If I could send some pictures this would make more sense. I am proud that I did all this on my 7" X 16" Horror Freight lathe. Anyway I really enjoyed this video just wish it had been out about 2-3 weeks ago. KOKO!
My Dad brought home a Rockwell lathe when the Porter-Cable/Delta factory service center closed (Rockwell became Delta, they used it to repair armatures for power tools). Thats the machine that helped me discover my passion for machining. I hope to someday have machines of my own, manual machining is what i love
I don't want to be too critical here, but that weld was way, way too hot. The heat affected zone went out 3 inches in either direction, the weld was a burnt grey color, and the piece was glowing red hot after the weld. Don't be afraid to drop your amps way down low for such a small weld. It will help prevent warping, it won't change the properties of the material as much, and will be easier to clean up. Other than that, great video as always.
on 10 carbon steel? Who cares?,,,,and you missed the part where he told us he first tried to heat straighten it . - I think that is where the heat came from. Not the weld
Years ago I rebuilt a Hardinge HLV toolroom lathe. I bought a Y axis nut and lead screw. They wanted you to drill and tap the nut in place. They supplied drill bushing to guide the drill and tap bushing to guide the tap. They lent me a Left Hand Acme tap to thread the nut. The result was like factory new. Always got great support from Hardinge. Their parts were fairly priced often less than other sources.
Hold the end concentric with a steady rest then apply heat at the weld while running the lathe around 150 rpm. Let the part cool with the lathe running. That has worked for me before.
I too have an old Rockwell lathe! This common repair is completely new to me, so I appreciate the video. If I were to attempt this I would be replacing the acme screw with a ball-screw while I was at it. Zero backlash, is better than less backlash and it's my lathe so, I do what I want, haha. Thanks!
If you use a ball screw, it while unscrew under cutting pressure. The friction is necessary in this case. If you were going to drive it with a stepper or servo that can hold position, then a ball screw is a good choice, although you also need some room for it.
@@carlhitchon1009 That is a really good point! I was thinking ballscrews were completely superior and only more expensive than acme. The lack of position hold is not something I considered. Switching to a ballscrew, if space permits (another good point!) , would also require an additional axis lock, or stepper/servo with hold position capability. Thanks!
Wouldn't work in his case. The insert holder turned upside down would be left handed and a left handed holder only holds lh inserts that have the wrong clearance
@@an2thea514 Not true - a left-handed tool holder with an IR insert would work upside down, threading away from the chuck as suggested by the OP. I do it all the time when the thread runs up to a shoulder. Avoids the need for the giant undercut too.
I will have to re-watch that video. Threading away from the chuck works well if you pre-engage the halfnuts and then start the spindle otherwise you have practically no time to react if you miss the mark on the threading dial.
Son you did a outstanding fix on that little lathe.I really enjoy your videos. When I was in the 12th ,went to school for half a day and would work in a machine shop. And you know I never had any regrets. Always learning how to make parts appear from a piece of metal. You know it’s in there,you just have to dig it out. Retired in 2016 and a year later I bought a small lathe and haven’t regretted it. Thanks 😊
I had to do a similar repair to a 1936 Lebond 15" lathe. Instead of threading we bored the gear side (the one your threaded as female) and machined the new "Rod" for an interference fit which mated by cooling the rod and heating the female side. I then had two small holes drilled through which I plug welded with the tig. The idea was the keep the about of heat input to the two pieces at a minimum. @Abom79 I was curious why you would choose a 360 weld instead of say a plug weld method. I understand the threading of the two together, which makes total sense. I consider you and This Old Tony to be the gold standard for videos that teach people about machining and the trade in general. IF I ever make it to your part of the country I am going to definitely stop by and drop of a case of beer as a thank you, you have taught more than you might realize to many.
I’ll tell you who’s a master at the heat/cool straightening process….Keith Fenner. Unbelievable some of those shafts he straightens. Sure looks like a great repair to me and plenty straight. Keep up the good work, thanks for the knowledge!
It's pretty tricky using heat and cool method to straighten such a small diameter since you can't really isolate the heating and cooling to one spot effectively. I reckon even Keith would have struggled with this.
Great vid as usual . Love your work. As I have said in the past, Im an old steal worker....fabrication. I wish however, that when the company I worked for for 15 years folded, that I had moved into machining...instead I went into the computer trade.....oh welll. Thanks again for all the great vids!
You were doing fine till you went at it with the welder, and were very lucky to be able to straighten it again. A turned and bored interference fit well cleaned out with a drop of loctite and it was rock solid.
I have the same problem on our Clausing. . Randy Richards made one for his but he did it 100% from scratch and I am not that ambitious (We are a revenue shop). I thought about doing it you way but wasn't real sure how it would come out....Now I know. McMastrer and Abom have shown me the light! Hope everything is the way you wanted it in the new shop. God bless and latrer bro. Rh
That's just the bad quality of the tap holder, I have the same exact one. It's an adjustable style vs a solid collet style. After I figured out the problem I had to search through a few of them to get one where the angles were cut centered.
Nice trick. I have used it on other types of shafts. Never had one fail at the repair point, especially when you think about how well these shafts and the drives are supported. Great job. Thanks for sharing.
I really Enjoy Your Channel and the way You descri3be how You do each Process, You keep things very interesting even with long videos. I never stop watching. you and cutting edge engineering from Australia, both of Your channels are just fascinating to me Thank You Very Much have a Great Day
Dang you got that thing straight AF. I bought an old Norton cast iron belt driven bench grinder and main shaft was a little bent so I tried to heat and straighten it. It is now scrap metal… don’t know how you do it.
When we did a shaft we basically did a similar fix. We turned the 4140 threaded rod down, machined threads with a shoulder, on the OEM shaft we drilled, tapped and counter bored for a snug fit/alignment. It Turned out pretty good. I'm thinking I should start recording the machine work I do. Love the channel and the content man.
I really enjoy this type of content. A project using old school machines and techniques. Measurements in inches. Its easy to follow and understand. Good stuff. Thanks
@@vihai Funny how the “third world” makes most of the products we use today. The engine overhaul kit for my JD 6068 was made in Turkey and the cam and lifters were from India. While US industry dies crushed by cheap foreign labor and over regulation. So yeah this is good content.
@@TimberKing You can say that again. I get a rash any time I touch anything with DP (metric) measurements. SAE was good enough to win WWII. I'll die with a Starrett 1" mic in my hand.
Nice repair. I would personally have used silver-solder with a reasonable short conical interface. One can coat the surfaces with silver-solder in advance, let it cool down, then put some more flux to the surfaces, let it dry, press them together gently, and heat the whole thing up under some axial spring pressure. Swedish Gun-drill heads are much in this way, soldered or brazed to the shaft. However more like a Vee-scarf, not conical.
Nice solid fix. I don't know it threading the union would offer more strength and rigidity than just a transition-fit spigot or dowel pin though. The threading method definitely makes for better TH-cam viewing anyway.
Adam, Did you see Alic Steele make the needed cutter & single point thread the acme screw. He made his own crescent wrench from scratch and that was him making the thumb screw. But his first attempts were with a sketchy set up using a die grinder attached to the compound.
I did mine last year on my 13" lathe, simply drilled and reamed, machined off 2 inches of thread and used green high strength loctite, no pin or weld to weaken the joint and runs perfectly true. To replace in the future, simply heat and disassemble. Engineering in a can!
Would have resulted in a very weak area in this case, not the loctite but the small diameter of the spigot and the sudden reduction in diameter. Personally I'd have gone with bronze weld to lower temperatures and HAZ
I can’t believe how friggin’ fast I tapped on this video when I saw it on my feed! I didn’t even read the title! I just saw the two leadscrew nuts and BAM! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hey Adam, I just noticed something: yir new welding table would make an awesome background for some graphics production. That would be a cool template. Definitely a metal worker's trade motif. Gota take a picture before it's scarred.
Nice repair Adam. You can usually pull the run out by reapplying some heat or even another spot of weld 180° away from the high. It'll pull towards the low as it cools.
There is something very satisfying about looking at that newly manufactured part next to the old, really nice. I'd like to see you put your name on that brass piece, kind of like the stamping on the old one.
I wanted to ask him if he had some kind of an automatic feed stop. i don't have anything on my lathes to stop the feed while threading except lightning reflexes. Which I also don't have.
This is more of what all of us in the shop like to see, rather watch this video 50x as a cnc video once, and that's our (people in our shop) options on the matter!
one more Awswome job for the books Adam !! One ironic thought I had when you were showing the old worn acme is it was probably worn out going back and forth cutting threads lol just like you did to fix it lol !! Yea u know that weld is gonna hold bro that sucker is stronger than the rod heeheee .. take care ~tim
Genius. I never would've thought of just parting off the old worn ln threads and screwing on a new threaded rod. The solution I had in my head was spray weld and re-tap the existing which would've been a trip.
@@Jacob-64 ever seen carbide tips applied to a saw blade. Just seconds to attach each one. Brazing. Or I guess they could tig weld each one. Might be a useless measure.
WAY more heat input and actually harder to do. Heliarc (TIG to you kiddies) is the only way I would do that,,,,and I got my degree in welding engineering from OSU over 40 years ago.
@@mathewmolk2089 brazing is like soldering a copper pipe. It's really not hard at all. You must have forgotten alot after 40 years of hard drinking. Just kidding. I think that it is just a personal preference.
Awesome video Adam. if we didn't see it done we would never know from the repair, it looks like a stock part!! Very interesting to watch over your shoulder and see this done. You got mad skills Sir!! :)
I just did something similar to my 1953 Leblond last month. I had read online people using only Loctite 680 or red and not welding to minimize warping. I made sure it set for 24 hours before installing and it's held up great so far but I also able to use a bigger thread size because my crossfeed screw was 3/4". The precision Acme thread from McMaster Carr is 1018.
Agreed. That's the beauty of Machining, you get to use tools to make more tools. In the not too distant future there will be farms of 3D printers, printing EVERYTHING, even more 3D printers. If it progresses enough, no post print Machining or finishing will be needed either. What an amazing time we're in.
I'm an hobbist, and in my poor technology, i also repaired my chinese lathe with that lathe itself. They say monkeys can develop a simple tool, but no other tools from that ... That is why they remained as they are ...
@@glenj.taylor2938 I work at a agricultural factory,we have iron printers that can print anything to be run as printed,manifolds turbo housings.actually pretty cool
I've been involved in engineering all my life, from starting an apprentiship as a machine tool fitter at 17 years old which involved building gear cutting machines, then as a maintenance fitter servicing and repairing machine tools to finally retiring at 65years old as an instrument maker building and final testing scientific test instruments for the petrol/chemical industries to name but a few. When i was servicing a Hardindge lathe many years ago the cross slide lead screw nut was split and had an Allen cap screw which could be used to adjust the back lash in the nut presumably to prolong the life of the lead screw and nut. Have you ever come across this type of arrangement before?
Clausing Colchester used this design. It helps, but the lead screw wears, though not as fast as the nut. You can adjust for near zero backlash in the worn area, but it will be uncomfortably tight in the less used areas. Clausing won't sell just the nut for the Clausing Colchester machines.The lead screw and the nut come as a matched set. I never considered a cut off and weld repair. I will certainly consider it for my hobby home shop machine repairs.
The problem is that when adjusting for backlash in the worn-out area of the threads, it becomes nearly impossible to turn when it gets to the area of better condition
Very nice! I might have just gone with the threaded join and permanent thread lock, given how little force this should ever have to handle. Then maybe use the roll pin for that extra measure.
Exactly right Not to waste your time on a pin since you tigged it. I mean if the weld fails which it won't, a pin isn't going to do anything. As simple as this job is to do, Tony can make another piece once his lathe is up and running if needed...Good job, Adam....Ricko
An option to welding the parts together is to use a thread-locking compound, such as is made by Loctite, especially in a low impact application such as this cross-slide. Not all thread-locking compounds (glues) are created equal, so it's necessary to consult the manufacturer's application guide in order to make a good selection. Some of these grades are intended for some pretty critical assemblies, and do not come apart without extreme measures. In this case, the as-machined parts assembled and ran true, but welding introduced movement of the base metal parts, resulting in runout which then needed to be corrected. Not a big deal on a one-off repair, but if you want to get things done and move on to other ways to use your time, it might be annoying. Neither solution is always "right" and it's always a case of the guy doing the job needs to decide what way to go about it... it's always better if you have an option for a Plan B though...
Repaired my SB cross screw similar method- but simply reamed a hole in the back section, turned down the end of the new the acme rod for slip fit, coated with sleeve retainer and voila...
I was just thinking this. The threading seems a lil superfluous when you are going to weld it. Although I wouldn't be surprised at all if Adam knows something I don't.
I have a 1956 14.5" Southbend and had to refurb the "crossfeed" screw as well. Issues i found: 1) The Orig screw was 11/16 - 8 LH and is NOT available anywhere non-custom 2) I downsized to the 5/8 - 8 nut from the 13" but, The new nut is a 4G standard and EVERY screw i could find is only a 2C and rolled thread. This caused an interference in the root of the screw as the rolled thread has a rounded minor root whereas the 4G standard (All ACME) has a sharp corner. McMaster, Thomson linear etc. All only supply a 2C rolled thread ACME. The one from McMaster was loose with the new nut, and the Thomson was too tight. Lowest quote for a precision ground was $600 + I wound up rethreading a 5/8 - 8 from Thomson on the Monarch 10EE to fit the 4G nut. It's not perfect, but more than useable with around .0018 takeup. (For comparison, my Monarch has .0002-3 takeup on the crossfeed screw and my Logan 10" has .004 with a new nut and old screw) I would be interested to know how tight this combo measures once reassembled.
Thank you Adam this is just the fix I need for my Pratt & Whitney model B 12 x 30. I’m already ordering the parts from McMaster-Carr. right on time thank you so much
The lathe is a 1962 vintage, used in tool room all of it's life before I got it. Thanks very much for the beautiful work, Adam!! Now to just start putting it all together when the snow starts to fly...great winter project in the heated cellar.
@@vince55sanders Everything is awesome!!
It always good to see this older stuff refurbished. Just sent my 1940s 10" Sheldon out for machining and scraping.
I have a 10 inch delta Rockwell lathe circa 1964. Mine has the motor under the lathe and the speed is controlled by a snowmobile clutch like thing. So do you have the adapter that fits in the spindle by chance? My lathe has I believe a 1 1/8 (1/4 ? ) spindle opening if, you have one and it fits my parameters could you tell me what taper it is (od)...I don't have one and not much info on said adapter I believe it is like a B & S 3 taper ...
@@chrischapel9165 The taper in the spindle bore is Morse Taper 3, I'm pretty certain. Mine is a benchtop, motor behind, but it still has the Reeve's drive (snowmobile clutch thing) too.
@@tonyc.4528 Tony thanks for replying etc...I can only wish mine was a 3 mt...I have made one for mine and I got the spindles B&S taper info from a British video etc . So I made one and it fits good with almost 100% contact over the whole adapter. I bored it out ,reamed the ID with a mt 2 to fit most of my tooling and it drills great BUT, IF I can get that OD perfect! ahh striving to remove that thousandths LOL... thanks Tony
I'm not sure you understand just how refreshing it is to see that I'm not the only one who uses a hacksaw on their lathe for parting... Sometimes, it just has to be. Thanks, Adam.
So do I.
A portaband works really well also.
@@bigboreracing356 yes! So effective!
My old, small lathe really struggles with parting so the my hacksaw gets a fair bit of lathe action!
If he had steadied the free end of that shaft it would have parted off easily without chatter. I sometimes use a cardboard tube over the OD or put the end in the tailstock bore. That fix will work till the cows come home.
Gooood evening from central Florida! Hope everyone has a great night!
Hi Adam, one year check-in! That screw is still doing great in my 10" Rockwell. No issues with the repair whatsoever, great job and thanks again!
Great Decision and Teaching Others in stopping and using the Hacksaw. When you saw something not right you stopped and did something about it. Great Lesson.
This channel can cure, anxiety, depression, bad mood, frustration and more... well done! Another home run!
This episode is about two (2-3) weeks too late for me. I have a Boyer/Shultz 6X12 inch surface grinder. The lead screw for the up and down motion of the grinder head was just about worn thru. I fixed the lead screw about the same way you did. Just did one thing different I removed about one inch of thread near the "handle" of the old lead screw and cut 3/8" X 24 Tpi. male thread on that piece and cut the rest of the old thread of the handle. I purchased a new "acme all thread" (3/4" X 7 Tpi). I drilled and taped the female threads into the acme "all thread" at one end. The part that was most difficult for me was making a replacement nut. I ordered some round bar 932 bearing bronze and bought an acme 3/4" X 7 Tpi. tap and cut the internal acme thread. The part that was the biggest challenge for me was cutting a .0.962" X 32 Tpi X 1/2" single point external threads into the bronze nut. If I could send some pictures this would make more sense. I am proud that I did all this on my 7" X 16" Horror Freight lathe. Anyway I really enjoyed this video just wish it had been out about 2-3 weeks ago. KOKO!
My Dad brought home a Rockwell lathe when the Porter-Cable/Delta factory service center closed (Rockwell became Delta, they used it to repair armatures for power tools). Thats the machine that helped me discover my passion for machining.
I hope to someday have machines of my own, manual machining is what i love
Looked like the tap was wobbly when you tapped the threads. Glad to see a midweek video Adam!
I don't want to be too critical here, but that weld was way, way too hot. The heat affected zone went out 3 inches in either direction, the weld was a burnt grey color, and the piece was glowing red hot after the weld. Don't be afraid to drop your amps way down low for such a small weld. It will help prevent warping, it won't change the properties of the material as much, and will be easier to clean up.
Other than that, great video as always.
on 10 carbon steel? Who cares?,,,,and you missed the part where he told us he first tried to heat straighten it . - I think that is where the heat came from. Not the weld
Years ago I rebuilt a Hardinge HLV toolroom lathe. I bought a Y axis nut and lead screw. They wanted you to drill and tap the nut in place. They supplied drill bushing to guide the drill and tap bushing to guide the tap. They lent me a Left Hand Acme tap to thread the nut. The result was like factory new. Always got great support from Hardinge. Their parts were fairly priced often less than other sources.
Hold the end concentric with a steady rest then apply heat at the weld while running the lathe around 150 rpm.
Let the part cool with the lathe running.
That has worked for me before.
Sounds like a quick easy fix. I'm going to try it the next time I need to straighten something tht will fit in the lathe.
The surface tension that the cutting oil had on 1/4 20 was amazing.
I too have an old Rockwell lathe! This common repair is completely new to me, so I appreciate the video. If I were to attempt this I would be replacing the acme screw with a ball-screw while I was at it. Zero backlash, is better than less backlash and it's my lathe so, I do what I want, haha. Thanks!
If you use a ball screw, it while unscrew under cutting pressure. The friction is necessary in this case. If you were going to drive it with a stepper or servo that can hold position, then a ball screw is a good choice, although you also need some room for it.
acme rod is used for a reason.
@@carlhitchon1009 That is a really good point! I was thinking ballscrews were completely superior and only more expensive than acme. The lack of position hold is not something I considered. Switching to a ballscrew, if space permits (another good point!) , would also require an additional axis lock, or stepper/servo with hold position capability. Thanks!
@@justanum I have an 11" Rockwell. There is no room. The brass nut that the customer provided, that is the width of the slot it sits in.
I think (only think, because I have zero lathe time) that Joe pie's way of threading away from the chuck is definitely the best way to go.
Wouldn't work in his case. The insert holder turned upside down would be left handed and a left handed holder only holds lh inserts that have the wrong clearance
@@an2thea514 Not true - a left-handed tool holder with an IR insert would work upside down, threading away from the chuck as suggested by the OP. I do it all the time when the thread runs up to a shoulder. Avoids the need for the giant undercut too.
I will have to re-watch that video. Threading away from the chuck works well if you pre-engage the halfnuts and then start the spindle otherwise you have practically no time to react if you miss the mark on the threading dial.
Son you did a outstanding fix on that little lathe.I really enjoy your videos. When I was in the 12th ,went to school for half a day and would work in a machine shop. And you know I never had any regrets. Always learning how to make parts appear from a piece of metal. You know it’s in there,you just have to dig it out. Retired in 2016 and a year later I bought a small lathe and haven’t regretted it. Thanks 😊
I had to do a similar repair to a 1936 Lebond 15" lathe.
Instead of threading we bored the gear side (the one your threaded as female) and machined the new "Rod" for an interference fit which mated by cooling the rod and heating the female side.
I then had two small holes drilled through which I plug welded with the tig. The idea was the keep the about of heat input to the two pieces at a minimum.
@Abom79 I was curious why you would choose a 360 weld instead of say a plug weld method.
I understand the threading of the two together, which makes total sense.
I consider you and This Old Tony to be the gold standard for videos that teach people about machining and the trade in general.
IF I ever make it to your part of the country I am going to definitely stop by and drop of a case of beer as a thank you, you have taught more than you might realize to many.
I’ll tell you who’s a master at the heat/cool straightening process….Keith Fenner. Unbelievable some of those shafts he straightens. Sure looks like a great repair to me and plenty straight. Keep up the good work, thanks for the knowledge!
It's pretty tricky using heat and cool method to straighten such a small diameter since you can't really isolate the heating and cooling to one spot effectively. I reckon even Keith would have struggled with this.
@@ferrumignis I think you’re right. This diameter is a whole different ballgame and would really be tough no matter what.
Keith's channel is another great one watch, it's crazy how he can straighten a shaft like he does...
Thanks, Adam! I was ready to make a new leadscrew for my 13" Victor. Splicing is the way to go. You've saved me lots of time and aggravation.
By far, Adam Booth is one of the best . His knowledge of numbers and ability with machines is remarkable.
I don't know what changed. The lighting or the camera. But that video of the lathe work was stellar! Nice job.
Hello from Aus. This is a good application for joining with Silicon Bronze mig wire. It keeps the heat input low.
Nice repair, Adam. Thanks for sharing. I'm sure Tony appreciates it very much!
Great vid as usual . Love your work. As I have said in the past, Im an old steal worker....fabrication. I wish however, that when the company I worked for for 15 years folded, that I had moved into machining...instead I went into the computer trade.....oh welll. Thanks again for all the great vids!
Great video Adom and I have to say the straightforward explanation of the repair was great... no nonsense! Thanks.
You were doing fine till you went at it with the welder, and were very lucky to be able to straighten it again. A turned and bored interference fit well cleaned out with a drop of loctite and it was rock solid.
I have the same problem on our Clausing. . Randy Richards made one for his but he did it 100% from scratch and I am not that ambitious (We are a revenue shop). I thought about doing it you way but wasn't real sure how it would come out....Now I know. McMastrer and Abom have shown me the light!
Hope everything is the way you wanted it in the new shop. God bless and latrer bro.
Rh
When you were tapping, it looked like your tail stock chuck was way out of center ??
That's just the bad quality of the tap holder, I have the same exact one. It's an adjustable style vs a solid collet style. After I figured out the problem I had to search through a few of them to get one where the angles were cut centered.
That was the tap holder doing the wobbling, not the tail stock chuck
Nice trick. I have used it on other types of shafts. Never had one fail at the repair point, especially when you think about how well these shafts and the drives are supported. Great job. Thanks for sharing.
I've done repairs like this on my Logan shaper. Works well and is a great way to repair lead screws. Great work as always Adam!!
Bravo, Had to breakout the old machinist hacksaw, I was surprised that you had one Abom79
Hi, the TIG welding part was awesome. I mean the image quality, contrast and almost true colors were superb!
I really Enjoy Your Channel and the way You descri3be how You do each Process, You keep things very interesting even with long videos. I never stop watching. you and cutting edge engineering from Australia, both of Your channels are just fascinating to me Thank You Very Much have a Great Day
Dang you got that thing straight AF. I bought an old Norton cast iron belt driven bench grinder and main shaft was a little bent so I tried to heat and straighten it. It is now scrap metal… don’t know how you do it.
Thanks Adam. Love watching you work.
Thank you Abom
For shared compound screw drive I'm not sure how it make now I understood.
Thanks for providing us your workmanship...
I see he has the standard 10” No taper attachment. Had one. Nice lathes. Still find blueprints on line. For these and the 11 and 14” versions
When we did a shaft we basically did a similar fix. We turned the 4140 threaded rod down, machined threads with a shoulder, on the OEM shaft we drilled, tapped and counter bored for a snug fit/alignment. It Turned out pretty good. I'm thinking I should start recording the machine work I do.
Love the channel and the content man.
there simply is not any better presentations of machine work on the net. Much appreciated Abom79.
I really enjoy this type of content. A project using old school machines and techniques. Measurements in inches. Its easy to follow and understand. Good stuff. Thanks
let's support content for third world measurement systems countries.
@@vihai Funny how the “third world” makes most of the products we use today. The engine overhaul kit for my JD 6068 was made in Turkey and the cam and lifters were from India. While US industry dies crushed by cheap foreign labor and over regulation. So yeah this is good content.
Germany/Sweden/France.. How to say "I don't understand metric" without saying "I don't understand metric".
@@slots1407 USA USA USA. I believe the UK also measures in inches. Once you are set in your ways change is near impossible….
@@TimberKing You can say that again. I get a rash any time I touch anything with DP (metric) measurements. SAE was good enough to win WWII. I'll die with a Starrett 1" mic in my hand.
Good evening from Oklahoma! Hope y’all have a good evening
Nice repair. I would personally have used silver-solder with a reasonable short conical interface.
One can coat the surfaces with silver-solder in advance, let it cool down, then put some more flux to the surfaces, let it dry, press them together gently, and heat the whole thing up under some axial spring pressure.
Swedish Gun-drill heads are much in this way, soldered or brazed to the shaft. However more like a Vee-scarf, not conical.
Nice solid fix. I don't know it threading the union would offer more strength and rigidity than just a transition-fit spigot or dowel pin though. The threading method definitely makes for better TH-cam viewing anyway.
Great work, love to see the care you put into every project, large or small.
Adam,
Did you see Alic Steele make the needed cutter & single point thread the acme screw. He made his own crescent wrench from scratch and that was him making the thumb screw. But his first attempts were with a sketchy set up using a die grinder attached to the compound.
Alec Steele is definitely no machinists ,he talks the talk though
No chatter from that parting operation! Precision Matthews working great!
Good to be able to help get another lathe ready for action!
I did mine last year on my 13" lathe, simply drilled and reamed, machined off 2 inches of thread and used green high strength loctite, no pin or weld to weaken the joint and runs perfectly true.
To replace in the future, simply heat and disassemble.
Engineering in a can!
That would have been my method.
Would have resulted in a very weak area in this case, not the loctite but the small diameter of the spigot and the sudden reduction in diameter. Personally I'd have gone with bronze weld to lower temperatures and HAZ
I can’t believe how friggin’ fast I tapped on this video when I saw it on my feed! I didn’t even read the title! I just saw the two leadscrew nuts and BAM! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hey Adam, I just noticed something: yir new welding table would make an awesome background for some graphics production. That would be a cool template. Definitely a metal worker's trade motif. Gota take a picture before it's scarred.
Nice repair Adam. You can usually pull the run out by reapplying some heat or even another spot of weld 180° away from the high. It'll pull towards the low as it cools.
Man I was sad when I went to your channel and there were zero welding videos. :(
Nice repair, Adam. Thanks for sharing.
I am not a machinist, but damn I love your videos.
Love love love the new threading edit bro!!!!
That undercut on the 1/4-20 threads. Drill and tap both sides and use a long set screw to lock the 2 pieces before welding.
There is something very satisfying about looking at that newly manufactured part next to the old, really nice. I'd like to see you put your name on that brass piece, kind of like the stamping on the old one.
Adam’s got the best reflexes in the industry when it comes to stopping on a dime while threading lol😄👍 Video looked like it was in fast forward mode 😊
I wanted to ask him if he had some kind of an automatic feed stop. i don't have anything on my lathes to stop the feed while threading except lightning reflexes. Which I also don't have.
This is more of what all of us in the shop like to see, rather watch this video 50x as a cnc video once, and that's our (people in our shop) options on the matter!
one more Awswome job for the books Adam !! One ironic thought I had when you were showing the old worn acme is it was probably worn out going back and forth cutting threads lol just like you did to fix it lol !! Yea u know that weld is gonna hold bro that sucker is stronger than the rod heeheee .. take care ~tim
Cleveland AND Anchorlube. Great combination!
Yes, these are the ones we look forward to.
I suspect that adding the pin would just have weakened the part - your weld looks excellent.
Genius. I never would've thought of just parting off the old worn ln threads and screwing on a new threaded rod. The solution I had in my head was spray weld and re-tap the existing which would've been a trip.
Good out come for all , involved , another machine , ready for projects .
Tig seems like overkill. Heat up and hit it brazing rod. Nice job
Was wondering about brazing or silver soldering. Perhaps less heat-induced warp?
How is tig overkill Denny ?
@@Jacob-64 ever seen carbide tips applied to a saw blade. Just seconds to attach each one. Brazing. Or I guess they could tig weld each one. Might be a useless measure.
WAY more heat input and actually harder to do. Heliarc (TIG to you kiddies) is the only way I would do that,,,,and I got my degree in welding engineering from OSU over 40 years ago.
@@mathewmolk2089 brazing is like soldering a copper pipe. It's really not hard at all. You must have forgotten alot after 40 years of hard drinking. Just kidding. I think that it is just a personal preference.
Who knew This Old Tony would hit up Adam to fix his lathe! Hah!
That was my exact first thought.
"This Tony you speak of... his name wouldn't be preceded be a "This" and "old," would it? 😄
Awesome video Adam. if we didn't see it done we would never know from the repair, it looks like a stock part!! Very interesting to watch over your shoulder and see this done. You got mad skills Sir!! :)
I just did something similar to my 1953 Leblond last month. I had read online people using only Loctite 680 or red and not welding to minimize warping. I made sure it set for 24 hours before installing and it's held up great so far but I also able to use a bigger thread size because my crossfeed screw was 3/4". The precision Acme thread from McMaster Carr is 1018.
I would probably cross-pin it after throughing though. Just to give it a little more resistance to cracking the Loctite seal.
Great work Adam. Great build. Paul, Scotland
Super cool to see you doing projects in the new shop. 👍
Lathe repairing a lathe,can't beat that,great thought in the repair.
Agreed.
That's the beauty of Machining, you get to use tools to make more tools.
In the not too distant future there will be farms of 3D printers, printing EVERYTHING, even more 3D printers.
If it progresses enough, no post print Machining or finishing will be needed either. What an amazing time we're in.
I'm an hobbist, and in my poor technology, i also repaired my chinese lathe with that lathe itself. They say monkeys can develop a simple tool, but no other tools from that ...
That is why they remained as they are ...
@@glenj.taylor2938 I work at a agricultural factory,we have iron printers that can print anything to be run as printed,manifolds turbo housings.actually pretty cool
@@19672701
That's really cool!
I haven't gone down the rabbit hole of 3D printing yet but the technology is game changing in my opinion.
Awesome repair there, thanks for posting.
Always nice to help other
I've been involved in engineering all my life, from starting an apprentiship as a machine tool fitter at 17 years old which involved building gear cutting machines, then as a maintenance fitter servicing and repairing machine tools to finally retiring at 65years old as an instrument maker building and final testing scientific test instruments for the petrol/chemical industries to name but a few. When i was servicing a Hardindge lathe many years ago the cross slide lead screw nut was split and had an Allen cap screw which could be used to adjust the back lash in the nut presumably to prolong the life of the lead screw and nut. Have you ever come across this type of arrangement before?
Clausing Colchester used this design. It helps, but the lead screw wears, though not as fast as the nut. You can adjust for near zero backlash in the worn area, but it will be uncomfortably tight in the less used areas. Clausing won't sell just the nut for the Clausing Colchester machines.The lead screw and the nut come as a matched set. I never considered a cut off and weld repair. I will certainly consider it for my hobby home shop machine repairs.
The problem is that when adjusting for backlash in the worn-out area of the threads, it becomes nearly impossible to turn when it gets to the area of better condition
No way that’s going to fail. That thing will last a long time. Good fix.
Nice effective repair!
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Abby (the haagen dazs heir he is married to) makes excellent videos. We should thank her for her contribution!
Yes, since she's apparently been doing the videos they are really nice. Allows Adam to concentrate on his end. She's doing a great job.
Very nice! I might have just gone with the threaded join and permanent thread lock, given how little force this should ever have to handle. Then maybe use the roll pin for that extra measure.
Excellent repair.
Oooohhhhhhh awesome some tuesday evening Abom Machining :)
Good fix, swiftly done! Nice.
Is this acme rod a rolled thread? If it is ,the strength would be increased for the thread it self. Nice work
Hey Adam, enjoy the channel. What is the Walter model of the tool holder and grooving and threading inserts you are using?
naprawa godna mistrza podziwiam 👍👍
Nice welding table!
Probably would be better off not threading it and just making a stub a press fit into the shaft and loctite and pin it.
Great job Adam!
Got her done 👍 very engineered specifically there
Adam, the close-up shots are great. Keep them coming.
It is the haagen dazs heir he is married to that makes the videos. You should thank her!
Exactly right Not to waste your time on a pin since you tigged it. I mean if the weld fails which it won't, a pin isn't going to do anything. As simple as this job is to do, Tony can make another piece once his lathe is up and running if needed...Good job, Adam....Ricko
An option to welding the parts together is to use a thread-locking compound, such as is made by Loctite, especially in a low impact application such as this cross-slide.
Not all thread-locking compounds (glues) are created equal, so it's necessary to consult the manufacturer's application guide in order to make a good selection.
Some of these grades are intended for some pretty critical assemblies, and do not come apart without extreme measures.
In this case, the as-machined parts assembled and ran true, but welding introduced movement of the base metal parts, resulting in runout which then needed to be corrected.
Not a big deal on a one-off repair, but if you want to get things done and move on to other ways to use your time, it might be annoying.
Neither solution is always "right" and it's always a case of the guy doing the job needs to decide what way to go about it... it's always better if you have an option for a Plan B though...
6:56. I could see that coming before the parting tool touch the rod
Repaired my SB cross screw similar method- but simply reamed a hole in the back section, turned down the end of the new the acme rod for slip fit, coated with sleeve retainer and voila...
I was just thinking this. The threading seems a lil superfluous when you are going to weld it. Although I wouldn't be surprised at all if Adam knows something I don't.
@@impetus444 the threads keep it held tighter together which helps to keep it straighter when welding
@@markshort9098 That makes perfect sense. Thanks for sharing, now I actually learned something.
I have a 1956 14.5" Southbend and had to refurb the "crossfeed" screw as well. Issues i found:
1) The Orig screw was 11/16 - 8 LH and is NOT available anywhere non-custom
2) I downsized to the 5/8 - 8 nut from the 13" but, The new nut is a 4G standard and EVERY screw i could find is only a 2C and rolled thread. This caused an interference in the root of the screw as the rolled thread has a rounded minor root whereas the 4G standard (All ACME) has a sharp corner. McMaster, Thomson linear etc. All only supply a 2C rolled thread ACME. The one from McMaster was loose with the new nut, and the Thomson was too tight. Lowest quote for a precision ground was $600 +
I wound up rethreading a 5/8 - 8 from Thomson on the Monarch 10EE to fit the 4G nut. It's not perfect, but more than useable with around .0018 takeup. (For comparison, my Monarch has .0002-3 takeup on the crossfeed screw and my Logan 10" has .004 with a new nut and old screw)
I would be interested to know how tight this combo measures once reassembled.
I would think that, while there's minimal load when you turn the screw, there's significant force in it when facing. Maybe turning/boring, not sure.
Nice job ! And you are a welder as well 👍
Thank you Adam this is just the fix I need for my Pratt & Whitney model B 12 x 30. I’m already ordering the parts from McMaster-Carr. right on time thank you so much
Why did you want to avoid making a centre in the end of the acme rod?
What is the benefit of the thread? When I did this job for my Logun I just drilled and reamed for a light press fit, then pined them together.