FOR THOSE THAT DO NOT KNOW… Hobby Machinists… aspiring machinists and non machinist that like the channel At 9:53 Adam tells us he’s using Alumi-Tap fluid and it’s good for Aluminum and Brass. This LUBRICANT is “NON Chlorinated” and this is important to know. Use of a “CHLORINATED” cutting fluid on Aluminum can cause a fire … ask me how I know. ALWAYS READ THE LABLES
The way you removed the woodruff key, that is gold. I'm learning machining on your channel. Simple tricks or old school experiemce, I would have never thought of doing that way. Thanks man. Keep them coming.
First time I have seen a tandem tap. Thanks for mentioning that they should not be backed out; good knowledge to have when I eventually need to use one.
McMaster-Carr, greatest industrial parts supply house ever! If they don't have it,then it doesn't exist. Long live the great yellow book, all 4000+ pages....
I agree completely, and the number of peanut-gallery-ticians who whinge about the flex arm is stunning. It works well, is easier to set up than a mill, etc. etc. etc.
@@AlessioSangalli How would you hold that tap securely in the lathe all while having full control of the feed? That’s why the Flex Arm is the best choice. Purpose built tool.
I always screw cut in the lathe Acme lead screw half nuts for a couple of reasons. 1. being it avoids the cost of a tap which are mouth wateringly expensive here and only likely to be use once so not a good use of resources (cash) 2. Its guaranteed that the screw cut thread will be true to the rest of the half nut especially where it is secured to the cross slide. I did notice that the tap in the tapping machine had a wobble so some sideways strain was put on the tap possibly making it cut a few thou larger. and not true to the machine surfaces. I have cut h/nuts as small as .625in (a Myford lathe lead screw size) Grinding a tool that small can be a bit of a challenge especially side clearance which has to be spot on or the tool will not cut and only rubs. The most successful way I have found of forming a accurate tool profile is by using a tool and cutter grinder fitted with a multi position vise. A Shadow Graph machine would be handy here to check the profile and size. I grind the tool just a few thou under size, on the width which allows me to get a near perfect fit by tweaking the compound slide.
Good video. Love that tapping machine. Last time I tapped some brass I didn't have anything decent as far as a tapping fluid. I went in the house, fried one slice of bacon, and then added mineral spirts to the grease. Worked good.
I am not a professional at any trade and not much of a DIYer at that. But when I can't find something suitable locally, McMaster-Carr has always been my first stop and has never let me down.
Abom said elsewhere (in another video, or comments) that basically that square shoulder type of screw profile was superseded in the industry decades ago by acme and so there is nobody making taps/dies anymore for McMaster to sell, unfortunately.
I'v been using my taps for so many years, But, I needed to do a 14 X 1.5 on an Audi wheel, and bought a new German tap... Man, Oh Man, Butter !! so nice !
I know you won't, but thread that onto an arbour and break out the brasso, That would look incredible. Adam has made me want to change carriers at age 61 and apprentice under him, not only an artist on the machines, but on the pit as well. Thank you Adam, and my best to Abby.
I remember using taps like this 25 years ago they were huge 3 inch finish cut with 3 different taps they were at least 2.5 feet long on the boring mill was so worried about them breaking in the parts but they cut like butter with no problem 😉
Had the occasion to drill and tap some heavy dimensional copper once. Tried all of the conventional tapping and cutting fluids, even tried kerosene (recommended by a machinist friend), but to no avail. Wound up twisting off several drill bits and breaking three taps. Finally, by accident noticed the jug of bar and chain oil used in the chainsaw, decided to give that a try. Finished the job with one bit and one tap. I would have never thought as sticky as that stuff was (akin to STP oil treatment), that it would have worked. But it's stickiness must have been what was needed to counteract the soft gummy nature of electrical grade copper.
@@energiespecialist1615 I think it depends on the type of bronze. I feel like aluminum bronze (I remember 959 because I'm a Porsche fan 😁) might have been quiet but bearing bronze was unpleasant...or maybe the other way around? *shrug* it's been 15 years lol
That's what many people don't realize when factoring the cost of someone's work. You're not paying for the 20 minutes a job takes. You are paying for the 20 years of experience it took to be able to do the job.
love watching....I am a drafter/designer in the foodservice industry for stainless steel equipment.....but love watching any kind of machining like this....great job ..awesome
The depth function of a digital or vernier caliper would achieve the same result, however that thin rule would win every time for convenience. Time to find one locally.
WOW that was some intense noises from that tap! Unhappy would be one word. Almost angry. Impressive that the SwingArm just powered right through it smoothly without hesitation. Excellent tool!
Looks like the same 5/8" ACME tap I bought for making a new nut for my Jones & Shipman 6" machine vice. I set up a saved search on ebay to get one for a sensible price here in the UK. Took a while, but it eventually found one for me.
Wooooo...was puckering for a bit.....another 1/16th inch and ya might not have been able to remove the tap from the power head....yi yi yi.....that woulda really sucked....but ya got er off.......Good job !!!!!
incredible presentation, I liked ❤ the content and I subscribed to your channel, I have a small lathe here in Brazil, I love the profession, big hug friend! 🇧🇷😉👍 👏👏👏👏
Back before expensive tandem acme taps were commonly available, we would have rough single pointed that size ACME thread in the lathe, and finished it up (also in the lathe), with a conventional single section ACME tap to produce final size. I noticed the run out while you pushed your tap through the bronze. Single point threading, then finishing with a tap in the lathe, reduces any possible thread run out relative to Nut OD.....if that matters.
Adam, you didn't mention the fact that the thread you are cutting is LEFT-handed. So for a single job {& an indefinite future sitting in a drawer} you need to buy an acme left-hand tandem tap at over $US 160.00. It is good to know that there are on-line suppliers who can provide same.
I used a tap of this type some years ago to make some cross feed nuts for the Logan Powermatic lathes we had at school. I guess I did not know this type of tap was meant to only go forward and not be reversed. Interesting and a valuable tip. By the way my nuts turned out just fine.
I think they're a lot more durable than typical threads. That would mean they're stronger, and less likely to wear out and cause slop over time. Edit: And it's not just something they did in the past. They would still do this for power screws on modern machines, unless they went a step further and used a ball screw.
Square threads offer the least friction and are the most efficient thread form, which is why they are used for precision lead screws. However, square threads are difficult to cut, because the cutting tool-whether single point, tap, or die-cannot have rake or relief angle, and cutting-tool life suffers when cutting square threads. Trapezoidal threads are stronger than square threads and offer better wear characteristics, while also being relatively efficient, so that they are also used widely in lead screws as well as in power-driving screws, like vises and jackscrews. I'm not sure why square screws would have been more popular in the past. Perhaps machinists and engineers simply hadn't thought of a trapezoidal thread form yet.
Square threads are extremely difficult to machine properly. They're theoretically the best threads out there in terms of strength, and I think their backlash characteristics are quite good, but ACME is good enough for most things. I also seem to recall that square threads were less forgiving of wear. Like, they take a long time to wear out, but they don't tolerate wear as well as ACME threads do. Full disclosure, I'm a dingus and a hobbyist who's just really interested in this stuff, so please do your own research, don't trust what I'm saying.
Abom, I hope you are aware of how much knowledge you impart to your viewers. Watching your channel, I have come to appreciate not just how a part is machined, but what the chip says about it. For example, I would have guessed bronze chipped differently than we saw here. I’m not sure how that knowledge might serve me in life, but at least I do know now!
Had the pleasure many many years ago of making a triple acme thread replacement but for a huge vale in a boiler house the idea of a double or triple acme is it is stronger than a single tap acme to open or close the valve
It looked like the tap was not running true to the Flexarm tool holder - was that my imagination, and if not (if it _wasn't_ running true), could that make your final thread oversize?
How come the threading was causing such a squeal? Also, why do different metal chip differently on the lathe? Some chip, some spirals, or some a mixture of both.
All of that has to do with the geometry of the cutting insert, the fact the material is spinning and not the cutting tool and the type of material being cut.
Brass is brittle. The chips break instead of spiraling. The tap is steel and the brass is much softer. The squealing is the brass grabbing the steel a making noise as the cutter moves through it. ✌
That's a good question with a complicated answer, for a number of factors can influence squeal and chatter in a cut. The noise is a function of vibration, somewhere, in the system, as it were, and the most obvious cause, or the easiest to remedy, is the tool or workpiece being insufficiently secure. Vibration can also be a result of the always-present variables of depth of cut, feed rate, and rate of rotation. Measures can and should be taken to reduce or eliminate chatter and noise by altering feeds or speeds or depth of cut, and this is why an intimate knowledge and feel for "feeds and speeds" are so important to a machinist. Sometimes its down simply to the material qualities of either the workpiece, cutter, or both, as they interact in a harmonic way to create vibration, and I think that's probably the culprit in this video. Bronze is relatively free-machining; it features greater inherent lubricity and less tensile strength than steel or aluminum, which is why it tends to cut really nicely, producing the chips you see here. Here also, cutter and workpiece can assumed to be fairly solid, and so I suspect the squealing is a result of the cutter (tap) interacting with the bronze at the very point of contact/cut, creating the right amount of vibration as the leading edge of the tap breaks through the material and as the material pushes back against the cutter, according to Newton's third law. This reciprocal back-and-forth forces, when rapid enough, will cause a squeal. Because the tap's cutting edges are fixed, depth of cut will be constant, and so the only thing Adam could alter would be the spindle speed, but tapping must be done at a safe and appropriate speed. So the squealing here can be considered unavoidable, even with the cutting fluid. Chip characteristics will be dictated largely by the material properties-lubricity, tensile strength, hardness, toughness, ductility-by depth of cut, and by the characteristics and geometry of cutter and chipbreaker. Often a machinist will judge the appropriateness of their setup by the quality of the chip it produces, though regardless of setup materials will tend to produce nice chips or long spirals based on their physical properties.
That flex arm is a really cool tool Adam. Sure beat the old 25hp radial drill we used for power tapping. Used to do gobbs of 2, 3, and 4 inch NPT fittings with skip tooth taps. Back in 1990 they cost a whole months pay.
I know it is nothing but did anybody else have their skin crawl when the tap first started to cut deep OMG Nails on a chalk board for me!!! Adam Great work love the videos!!!!!!
Would it be possible to make that original square thread using a parting tool but slanted? If so, would it then be possible to machine a tap for the inner square thread out of the new threaded shaft? Just wondering what you would do if you really had to use the original thread...
I watched the first few minutes a second time, just to double check. It's it worth mentioning that the thread/tap are left-hand? Thank you for the video.
FOR THOSE THAT DO NOT KNOW… Hobby Machinists… aspiring machinists and non machinist that like the channel
At 9:53 Adam tells us he’s using Alumi-Tap fluid and it’s good for Aluminum and Brass.
This LUBRICANT is “NON Chlorinated” and this is important to know.
Use of a “CHLORINATED” cutting fluid on Aluminum can cause a fire … ask me how I know.
ALWAYS READ THE LABLES
The way you removed the woodruff key, that is gold. I'm learning machining on your channel. Simple tricks or old school experiemce, I would have never thought of doing that way. Thanks man. Keep them coming.
I’ve used the mill vise many times to remove large keys from shafts 👍🏻
@@Abom79 are you working in your new shop yet? When I see you working in your current shop I want to ask if everything is ok?
@@Jimmy_in_Mexico He is still in the process of setting it up. That project in the above video is for his big lathe in his new shop.
@@Jimmy_in_Mexico New shop is not finished yet but both shops will stay running full time.
@@Abom79 why does the tap have two sets of threads??
That's a beautiful tap - and that flex-arm simply DOES NOT take prisoners! Looking GOOD!
First time I have seen a tandem tap. Thanks for mentioning that they should not be backed out; good knowledge to have when I eventually need to use one.
Love the detail and accuracy demonstrated, a true craftsman
Nice tap! That double-cut is a great idea for a nicer internal thread!
I always learn something from your videos. Thanks!
McMaster-Carr, greatest industrial parts supply house ever! If they don't have it,then it doesn't exist. Long live the great yellow book, all 4000+ pages....
When I heard the story, he created the McMaster Catalog on about the forth day?
That Flexarm is a gem of a tool. Nice job Adam.
I agree completely, and the number of peanut-gallery-ticians who whinge about the flex arm is stunning. It works well, is easier to set up than a mill, etc. etc. etc.
@@silasmarner7586 The fixturing setup with chuck and vise is clever. Adam paid attention while working his way through the years.
Ok but in this case - it was already a lathe part, wasn't this power tap mechanism really advantageous over a lathe? If so why? Thanks
@@AlessioSangalli How would you hold that tap securely in the lathe all while having full control of the feed? That’s why the Flex Arm is the best choice. Purpose built tool.
@@grntitan1 It also has that built-in clutch to stop the bit if it binds up.
@9:58, TH-cam closed captions say [Music]. I wanna know when this drops on Spotify.
I always screw cut in the lathe Acme lead screw half nuts for a couple of reasons. 1. being it avoids the cost of a tap which are mouth wateringly expensive here and only likely to be use once so not a good use of resources (cash)
2. Its guaranteed that the screw cut thread will be true to the rest of the half nut especially where it is secured to the cross slide. I did notice that the tap in the tapping machine had a wobble so some sideways strain was put on the tap possibly making it cut a few thou larger. and not true to the machine surfaces.
I have cut h/nuts as small as .625in (a Myford lathe lead screw size)
Grinding a tool that small can be a bit of a challenge especially side clearance which has to be spot on or the tool will not cut and only rubs.
The most successful way I have found of forming a accurate tool profile is by using a tool and cutter grinder fitted with a multi position vise. A Shadow Graph machine would be handy here to check the profile and size.
I grind the tool just a few thou under size, on the width which allows me to get a near perfect fit by tweaking the compound slide.
yeah I notice the runout in the tapping op too.
Always something interesting to watch for the technical inclined on this channel.
Thanks for sharing Adam !
Good video. Love that tapping machine. Last time I tapped some brass I didn't have anything decent as far as a tapping fluid. I went in the house, fried one slice of bacon, and then added mineral spirts to the grease. Worked good.
Hope the bacon went between two slices or bread
That machine did a stellar job, I’ve seen those done by hand and it takes a bunch of torque to plow through that nut! Good job.
I am not a professional at any trade and not much of a DIYer at that. But when I can't find something suitable locally, McMaster-Carr has always been my first stop and has never let me down.
Abom said elsewhere (in another video, or comments) that basically that square shoulder type of screw profile was superseded in the industry decades ago by acme and so there is nobody making taps/dies anymore for McMaster to sell, unfortunately.
Nice. Information rich as usual. A big thumbs up on this one.
I'v been using my taps for so many years, But, I needed to do a 14 X 1.5 on an Audi wheel, and bought a new German tap... Man, Oh Man, Butter !! so nice !
I always love the pictures you put after the video ends
Love your content, wish you all luck
I know you won't, but thread that onto an arbour and break out the brasso, That would look incredible. Adam has made me want to change carriers at age 61 and apprentice under him, not only an artist on the machines, but on the pit as well. Thank you Adam, and my best to Abby.
Cell phone carrier?
@@stevendupre2792 Career.
Always love the sound brass gives off when you tap it. Miss working in a shop
Superb job! Vide greatly appreciated. Serious bit of true craftsmanship Adam.
I loved that little grin when the test nut came off the tap and you were studying it to make sure it was good. 😁
I remember using taps like this 25 years ago they were huge 3 inch finish cut with 3 different taps they were at least 2.5 feet long on the boring mill was so worried about them breaking in the parts but they cut like butter with no problem 😉
I have broke them using a boring mill it’s not a good day haha
Yes indeed they do work well there is a reason for there being three taps to get the thread cut on larger size one a little bitty one inch not so much
Just ordered my first micro 100 boring bar all because of your videos
Great video Adam...I actually turned 3/4 - 6 ACME today at work...first time I've seen ACME in years.
Do you see a more modern type of thread used now instead of ACME?
Had the occasion to drill and tap some heavy dimensional copper once. Tried all of the conventional tapping and cutting fluids, even tried kerosene (recommended by a machinist friend), but to no avail. Wound up twisting off several drill bits and breaking three taps. Finally, by accident noticed the jug of bar and chain oil used in the chainsaw, decided to give that a try.
Finished the job with one bit and one tap. I would have never thought as sticky as that stuff was (akin to STP oil treatment), that it would have worked. But it's stickiness must have been what was needed to counteract the soft gummy nature of electrical grade copper.
Yeah copper's a bitch. Thanks
I always loved how bronze looked when machining it but the sound? Can't say I miss that.
I think my ears are bleeding 😬😅
The captions called it “applause” at one point.
i'd say it was brass.. Bronze doesn't screech like the.. :-)
For real
@@energiespecialist1615 I think it depends on the type of bronze. I feel like aluminum bronze (I remember 959 because I'm a Porsche fan 😁) might have been quiet but bearing bronze was unpleasant...or maybe the other way around? *shrug* it's been 15 years lol
You make everything look so easy :-) Thank you for another great video.
He does, doesn't he! ( It's as annoying as sh*t 🤣) but I always learn something coming here!
That's what many people don't realize when factoring the cost of someone's work. You're not paying for the 20 minutes a job takes. You are paying for the 20 years of experience it took to be able to do the job.
Don't ever change your music!
That distinct sound of brass / bronze when it is machined. Right up there with fingernails on chalkboard.
Nice work. Great video. Strong flex arm. Thank you for sharing.
Yea. Just saw you posted this. Can;t wait to watch it.
I like that Flexarm. That's awesome! Wish our shop had one.
Loved seeing this! Ironically, Brandon, over at Inheritance Machining just made an Acme tap to do the same job!
Apart from your lathes, that tapping machine is my favourite machine in your workshop 👍
A case for the Flexarm, allows the use of tap that is visibly NOT concentric...👍
love watching....I am a drafter/designer in the foodservice industry for stainless steel equipment.....but love watching any kind of machining like this....great job ..awesome
That small starrett ruler tip was great. I never knew that small of one existed and ordered one right after I finished your video.
The depth function of a digital or vernier caliper would achieve the same result, however that thin rule would win every time for convenience. Time to find one locally.
WOW that was some intense noises from that tap! Unhappy would be one word. Almost angry. Impressive that the SwingArm just powered right through it smoothly without hesitation. Excellent tool!
The model Adam has will tap up to 2"! He has a couple of videos where he demonstrates. Today's tap is not near the capacity of that sweet machine!
I must say, the sound that tap makes can be used in horror movies. Shivers down my acme...I mean spine.
Looks like the same 5/8" ACME tap I bought for making a new nut for my Jones & Shipman 6" machine vice. I set up a saved search on ebay to get one for a sensible price here in the UK. Took a while, but it eventually found one for me.
Flexarm must be very proud of you!
Wooooo...was puckering for a bit.....another 1/16th inch and ya might not have been able to remove the tap from the power head....yi yi yi.....that woulda really sucked....but ya got er off.......Good job !!!!!
You got some nice tools man.
1:30 ... Excellent plan!!! ... going to be great!!
Muchas gracias maestro por brindarnos sus conocimientos bendiciones 👍
Hope to see the latest @flexarm in the new shop soon! These kind of merchandise are priceless.
He said there is one coming. It is a cart mounted model!
Thanks for mentioning the price of the tap. I often wonder what the professional tools cost.
incredible presentation, I liked ❤ the content and I subscribed to your channel, I have a small lathe here in Brazil, I love the profession, big hug friend! 🇧🇷😉👍 👏👏👏👏
Awesome work man
I like your Greenard arbor press. They're still in business here in Nashua NH
THX Adam, was waiting for this....
That’s a really nice tap for dang sure
Great content and manufacturing
Back before expensive tandem acme taps were commonly available, we would have rough single pointed that size ACME thread in the lathe, and finished it up (also in the lathe), with a conventional single section ACME tap to produce final size.
I noticed the run out while you pushed your tap through the bronze.
Single point threading, then finishing with a tap in the lathe, reduces any possible thread run out relative to Nut OD.....if that matters.
Had to go back and look after reading your comment and man that did run out quite a bit.
I noticed that run out too, if you can see it, then it's gotta be pretty large. I was surprised no one mentioned it besides you.
Adam, you didn't mention the fact that the thread you are cutting is LEFT-handed. So for a single job {& an indefinite future sitting in a drawer} you need to buy an acme left-hand tandem tap at over $US 160.00. It is good to know that there are on-line suppliers who can provide same.
Parting off that hex bar sounds sublime 👌
That through tap is savage. Basically just All In off the line lol
That tapping head is just too easy! I would be threading that in the lathe. Turning Left hand Acme threads are fun.
I was like wauw what a sound it make when you making the thread.. never heard anything like that. cool.
I used a tap of this type some years ago to make some cross feed nuts for the Logan Powermatic lathes we had at school. I guess I did not know this type of tap was meant to only go forward and not be reversed. Interesting and a valuable tip. By the way my nuts turned out just fine.
Go easy tapping your nuts and they should be fine
I try not to get my nuts tapped, kinda hurts
Did they cut square threads in the past because it was easier or better or? What are the pros and cons of square thread and acme thread?
I think they're a lot more durable than typical threads. That would mean they're stronger, and less likely to wear out and cause slop over time.
Edit: And it's not just something they did in the past. They would still do this for power screws on modern machines, unless they went a step further and used a ball screw.
Square threads offer the least friction and are the most efficient thread form, which is why they are used for precision lead screws. However, square threads are difficult to cut, because the cutting tool-whether single point, tap, or die-cannot have rake or relief angle, and cutting-tool life suffers when cutting square threads.
Trapezoidal threads are stronger than square threads and offer better wear characteristics, while also being relatively efficient, so that they are also used widely in lead screws as well as in power-driving screws, like vises and jackscrews.
I'm not sure why square screws would have been more popular in the past. Perhaps machinists and engineers simply hadn't thought of a trapezoidal thread form yet.
Square threads are extremely difficult to machine properly. They're theoretically the best threads out there in terms of strength, and I think their backlash characteristics are quite good, but ACME is good enough for most things.
I also seem to recall that square threads were less forgiving of wear. Like, they take a long time to wear out, but they don't tolerate wear as well as ACME threads do.
Full disclosure, I'm a dingus and a hobbyist who's just really interested in this stuff, so please do your own research, don't trust what I'm saying.
@@GregBadabinski Acme threads can be wear compensated with an antibacklash arrangement (split nut with a spring) also.
Thats awesome that tap has 2 different cutting sizes
Nice Work, Brother!
Abom, I hope you are aware of how much knowledge you impart to your viewers. Watching your channel, I have come to appreciate not just how a part is machined, but what the chip says about it. For example, I would have guessed bronze chipped differently than we saw here. I’m not sure how that knowledge might serve me in life, but at least I do know now!
I think it was brass
That tap makes a heckuva freaky noise.
It's a nutty video... just kidding... lovely and elegant work as always! :)
Nice job, Mr. Booth
Had the pleasure many many years ago of making a triple acme thread replacement but for a huge vale in a boiler house the idea of a double or triple acme is it is stronger than a single tap acme to open or close the valve
Great video Adam. Love your channel. Inspiring me to take up as a hobby!
Thank you.👍👍👍
It looked like the tap was not running true to the Flexarm tool holder - was that my imagination, and if not (if it _wasn't_ running true), could that make your final thread oversize?
It’s part of the design. It’s a floating arm. Focus on the tap shaft and not the tapping machine. It is running true.
Long videos short videos . I like watching you cut steel. I like shredder videos too. Would love to see you build one of those. :e)
There was a wobble as the tap was doing its thing.
HI THERE i am just a beginner and you make it look easy john
Flex arm is cool thanks for sharing
How come the threading was causing such a squeal? Also, why do different metal chip differently on the lathe? Some chip, some spirals, or some a mixture of both.
All of that has to do with the geometry of the cutting insert, the fact the material is spinning and not the cutting tool and the type of material being cut.
Brass is brittle. The chips break instead of spiraling. The tap is steel and the brass is much softer. The squealing is the brass grabbing the steel a making noise as the cutter moves through it. ✌
@@jamesbarisitz4794 in physics they call that stick-slip noise. Same as the squealing sound you get dragging your finger across wet glass.
That's a good question with a complicated answer, for a number of factors can influence squeal and chatter in a cut. The noise is a function of vibration, somewhere, in the system, as it were, and the most obvious cause, or the easiest to remedy, is the tool or workpiece being insufficiently secure. Vibration can also be a result of the always-present variables of depth of cut, feed rate, and rate of rotation. Measures can and should be taken to reduce or eliminate chatter and noise by altering feeds or speeds or depth of cut, and this is why an intimate knowledge and feel for "feeds and speeds" are so important to a machinist. Sometimes its down simply to the material qualities of either the workpiece, cutter, or both, as they interact in a harmonic way to create vibration, and I think that's probably the culprit in this video.
Bronze is relatively free-machining; it features greater inherent lubricity and less tensile strength than steel or aluminum, which is why it tends to cut really nicely, producing the chips you see here. Here also, cutter and workpiece can assumed to be fairly solid, and so I suspect the squealing is a result of the cutter (tap) interacting with the bronze at the very point of contact/cut, creating the right amount of vibration as the leading edge of the tap breaks through the material and as the material pushes back against the cutter, according to Newton's third law. This reciprocal back-and-forth forces, when rapid enough, will cause a squeal. Because the tap's cutting edges are fixed, depth of cut will be constant, and so the only thing Adam could alter would be the spindle speed, but tapping must be done at a safe and appropriate speed. So the squealing here can be considered unavoidable, even with the cutting fluid.
Chip characteristics will be dictated largely by the material properties-lubricity, tensile strength, hardness, toughness, ductility-by depth of cut, and by the characteristics and geometry of cutter and chipbreaker. Often a machinist will judge the appropriateness of their setup by the quality of the chip it produces, though regardless of setup materials will tend to produce nice chips or long spirals based on their physical properties.
Different materials, different properties
That flex arm is a really cool tool Adam. Sure beat the old 25hp radial drill we used for power tapping. Used to do gobbs of 2, 3, and 4 inch NPT fittings with skip tooth taps. Back in 1990 they cost a whole months pay.
Sounds like you broke a couple….(:-))
7:36 quite the gash in that chuck .......wonder how that happened
I have threaded nuts that small on the lathe at work to fix some tailstocks
Is the machine museum is open to the public yet??
Olá amigo!!!
Tenho aprendido muito com seus trabalhos!!!
Obrigado abraço!!!
I know it is nothing but did anybody else have their skin crawl when the tap first started to cut deep OMG Nails on a chalk board for me!!! Adam Great work love the videos!!!!!!
Would it be possible to make that original square thread using a parting tool but slanted?
If so, would it then be possible to machine a tap for the inner square thread out of the new threaded shaft?
Just wondering what you would do if you really had to use the original thread...
what happened to the precision mathews been waiting to see some chips fly and your thoughts on it i have a 14/40 on order since oct ,2021
That’s a great tap. Is it possible to get a die for the male tread. Great blog.
Well done
Great content thanks for sharing
I watched the first few minutes a second time, just to double check. It's it worth mentioning that the thread/tap are left-hand? Thank you for the video.
He shows a bit of the machining of the left hand thread on his facebook channel. Check it out for a preview.
@@paulcopeland9035 I noticed the left hand turn, too.
Bardzo dobra robota. Pozdrawiam serdecznie 😊
Is squared thread just as good as acme if you disregard the issues manufacturing in 2022?
Using 35/64 drill..... is 9/16" too close for comfort at .5625?
nice job
Always learning something new with your videos 👍🦘
Adam do you have a video on grinding this tool profile? 2:48
Grinding what "tool profile"? The tool he faced the part with? Nothing to that!
🎵 Test nuts roasting on an open fire...🎶
“Jack screws falling on your toes.”
What material do you put to cool it?
I thought that tap would be over $300.00 but $160.00 about - is very doable. Now I'm thinking on doing my lead screw on my lathe.
Wile E. Coyote used lots of these. Gotta' love Acme.
Left hand thread?
As always Adam.... like a BAWS!!!