I like how the owner lets you figure everything out from scratch, rather than giving you useful hints like “it was parked in a pond overnight, 3 days before the seat quit working”
Really should have a report. Much like when you go to the doctor. When where what how long. And some history. Waded through water. Has a engine transplant. Etc...
I think the service adviser is often guilty of filtering out too much between customer and mechanic. Or not asking enough questions.Of course, a lot of customers aren't very good with the details because they don't ... know anything. They'd mention the flooding if they knew that affected electrical things, but they don't necessarily even make that connection!
We repair a lot of corroded connectors along the floors in the salt belt. Usually airbag codes first as they are sensitive to resistance values. People drag in snow and salt off their shoes all winter long. Manufacturers really should be using weather pack connectors inside vehicles.
Probably the best thing to do if one intends to keep the vehicle for a long time and is located in a region that's bad for corrosion is go through the entire vehicle with dielectric grease and grease every exposed connector it would be a slow tedious process but it would pay off in the long run.
By not adding weather pack connectors, that saves $.05 per vehicle, which adds-up. Translated: the yearly HOA fee to the executive’s condo in the Bahamas.
Or.... just buy a cheap beater car and keep your actual daily car nice and shiny for when the weather gets nasty. Or you could even buy a cheap scooter/bike, if you don't have space for 2 cars.
People should be using downward airflow and not straight in your face that has no real purpose. My middle vents are closed as I want air to come out below and for windows.
Ray you are the step up from the channel I used to watch 8 years ago on TH-cam, they turned into it's profits went from 500$ fixes to fixing only bmws and track cars. Abandoning most people looking for general knowledge. You come after a storm and probe under seats man. Your awesome and I'm sure people would agree that this is more helpful than flashy parts
@@littlewazz scotty kilmer is kindof the "butt of the joke" of youtube automotive repair channels these days - you won't learn squat from watching him, just spend your time getting screeched at by him. If you actually want to learn to fix anything, or just good diagnostic procedure in general that you can really apply to any field, watch any of the other 3 channels I mentioned above, or this one.
Ehh.. not necessarily. Those rails are exposed and not treated from the factory. Florida, is a high humidity region. So, the car just being in Florida it is very reasonable for those rails to have a bit of surface rust.
Takes me back to 2016 and 2018 for hurricane Matthew and Florence in the NC and SC area, working as an insurance adjuster. Working the I 95 Corridor, too many hydro locked engines and too many issues just like this. We sent tons to the bone yard. Scary part is how many were then bought (rebuilt) and resold to unsuspecting buyers, who were then nickeled and domed to death because of the exact thing you see here. Great video
Yep a Titanic car will make a mechanic rich & leave the owner walking - don't say I saved $9K buying a car(rebuilt title) when the wiring & dash has to be replaced -
The flood cars always seem to end up at these mom & pop car dealers. Test drive one, and half the dash warning indicators light up. Used to get so frustrated trying to buy a good, used car.
I'd say one of the best qualities you have Ray, is you're human. You don't talk or act like a tool(robot). I enjoy watching, learning, and having a good laugh. You sir, I find to be a great person all around!! Some day I'll be able to shake your hand and tell you how much I appreciate you and your channel! Have a great day Ray!
Like in most automotive repairs, patience is key. It appears the entire seat should be replaced or at least have the water mitigated and cushions dried prior to installing new components to avoid mold and corrosion
Have to watch what cars you do that to. Some can't self resync the left and right tracks to prevent binding. Since this one had seat memory it probably can do it on it's own. I just did a repair on a Navigator with memory seats/tilt wheel module issues. Same thing, could not get to the stupid rear seat bolts since when key is shut off the seat slides back.
@@daveunbranded Yep - Regular drill + 90 degree offset drill would have done the job...providing they rotate at the same RPM - which is kinda unlikely. You'd just have to run them both forward to whatever end-stop they have. But with the seat cushion also full of water - I'd be getting the insurance to replace the entire seat - quit messing around with it.
If I disconnected a salt water-soaked connector I would have sprayed both connectors with dielectric or contact cleaner. I assume it is a good idea to displace the salt water and residue. And what about the other seat?
I spoke to an insurance adjuster who had recently been to Lousy-Anna after a storm. They had hundreds of water damaged cars, so they had to speed the process. If the water line was on the wheels, all fluids were changed. If it had wet carpet, totaled. Who would guess that water would be a problem when you live below sea level. 🤔
I live in Denham Springs Lousyanna, after the great flood of 2016 there were tens of thousands of completely submerged vehicles. I know a few guys who managed to get theirs running again but none lasted more than several months.
Great diagnostics, Ray. I live on the NC coast and have lost several vehicles to flooding over the years. I always wondered exactly what happened under the seat that fried everything.
Well, it's the results of having a battery push current through connectors submerged in extremely conductive salt water. That one pin was completely burned off. Can't speak for modern stuff, but car modules used to be coated in a waterproof epoxy. Still, with the main power connection burned off, it's garbage.
Water just by itself will corrode all the connectors and electronics, but that will take some time… The real damage happens on a powered circuit. Water conducting across a voltage potential will exponentially corrode all metals as well as dissolve metals with a positive polarity. The module under the seat has continuous battery voltage at all times, even when the vehicle is off. So the reaction starts and doesn’t stop until it dries or it’s cleaned…
Another great job. I was going to say that next time just remove the seat's front cross rail to get the space you need under the seat. But you eventually figured that out so now I won't mention it.
I dont envy you Ray, I had a similar problem last year with my 2005 Audi A6 Avant. The passenger side floor go flooded, I had 2 inches of water above the carpet. That wrecked the Comfort Control Module and all the wiring joints located under the carpet in the passenger footwell. I went through 2 modules until I eventually got it all sorted out. Nightmare, water damage is no fun!
This is Florida. Any water in there vaporizes. Was like a sauna under there. All that vapor attacks bare metal, quick. If it was anywhere but fla. I would agree. I say they left the window open.
@@NemoConsequentae Surface rust formed over time is darker brown though. That orange colour usually signifies salt water or another oxidisation accelerator.
Glad to see you are well, and back into work already. Storm damage will cause a mass of extra work on vehicles. We had floods in February (Brisbane, Australia). Recently, I was driving along a road in an industrial area, near vehicle scrap yards. Parked on both sides of the road are hundreds of near new vehicles - most likely waiting their turn with the insurance assessors. A feature of all of the cars is they are covered in brown dirt up, and over the roofs. Most likely not enough room in the yards for them, so the road sides has to hold the overflow. There is also years of work ahead to repair all the damaged roads. Driving is like a slalom course of avoiding pot holes, and sections where the bitumen has lifted, and broken up.
What a mess ! Lesson well taught. Never, never, never buy a flood damage vehicle. Thank you Ray for showing us what happens. Hope you have faired well . Hurricane aftermath is just horrific. Terrible losses incurred by all..
Based on all the codes that are showing on the analyzer, I'd say that the seat and tilt/telescope steering wheel are the least of that owner's flooded car problems!
Seawater (Gulf of Mexico) is highly conductive for DC. The green corrosion is produced when you ionize oxygen, it turns into it's even more corrosive, dielectric big brother- ozone. The terminals fret, causing resistance, producing heat, warping the plastic housing, making it more loose, viscous circle. That smell after lightning- ozone.
Yep, I use a 12v cordless ratchet battery to do that kind of stuff. Super handy at junkyards to move / test window actuators, move seats, test window washer pumps, power trunk latches, etc...
Once salt water gets into a vehicle it really never leaves. The water may leave but it leaves the salt behind and it begins doing what it does best: corrosion. Once it's gotten into the wiring and electronic devices that car is doomed. My sister in law had a place at Siesta Key near Fort Myers Beach. The water reached the roofs of the trailers. Her Chrysler convertible is wasted. Too bad, because I waxed it with Collinite last year.
@@spaceflight1019 Yep. My brother lives a mile from the bridge to Ft. Myers Beach and had 3+ feet of surge water in his yard, his '20 Caddy CT5, '00 Ranger, bike, and work van are all toast.
Glad to see you back in the shop. I really got a lot out of this video. The way you diagnosed this seat not working issue was very educational. Will be valuable to me in the future.
My father had a former USDA Chevy pickup that he bought in an auction. The truck was a complete basic barebones vehicle, had a straight 6 cylinder engine, No radio, no antena, or other fancy optional equipment of the Disco era. The passenger side door dig have a big ding in it, but didn’t interfere with the window crank unit, or the opening and closing of the door. A hurricane that hit South Texas back in 1980 submerged the truck a little bit below the steering wheel. All he replaced were a few engine parts, mechanical parts and an entire wiring loom. The truck is still alive and well, but in Mexico with a relative. Older cars are better than these new disposable cars with their fancy pancy, poorly engineered, and unprotected, wiring, electronics, and central area network. That Fiat “Dodge” car is toast!!!! I’m sure Tyler Hoover from Hoovies Garage, would’ve enjoyed purchasing it, and taking it to Car Wizard for an evaluation, and review, of a flood damaged vehicle.
I once diagnosed a very similar situation, except the water damage was the result of years of the eldery owner's umitigated incontinence. Unpleasant. Glad to see insurance is getting involved for this owner, at least. If it were my call, I'd likely recommend the entire seat be replaced, along with the pigtails on the floor side, code the new module and do a seat weight calibration. As always, just speculation based on the video, as I don't have the vehicle in front of me. :] Sadly, I'm already starting to see flood vehicles hitting the market here in North Alabama...
Love your videos Ray. If you had used the handle on the top of the seat for the rear access, usually the seat will disconnect from the motorized track and just glide forward. I’ve not worked on the challenger so I could be wrong but most rear passenger don’t want to wait for the motor to move the seat
Salt water and electricity combine for rapid corrosion. If you thought your car might get dunked in salt water, disconnect the battery and wait until all the salt is rinsed out of it using distilled water if possible and it is dry again before reconnecting the battery. Contact cleaner followed up with spray grease on the connectors won't hurt either.
These are by far my favorite episodes. Watching you properly diagnose an issue and not just firing the parts cannon, is why I enjoy your work. Thank you Sir.
Pro tip, be very leery of buying used cars ANYWHERE after a major flood. Sometimes these things will end up at auction and get sold hundreds of miles away just waiting to be a PITA for the next owner if the flood damage isn’t disclosed.
Usually they end up thousands of miles away. The farther away they can send them, the less likely potential buyers will be to suspect the damage. Seeing the registration history helps significantly. These vehicles almost always wind up at a shitty buy here/pay here spot where their bruncle in house parts swapper would go grab a module out of a junkyard car, scratch the greenie stuff off the pins in the connectors and it's on the lot in a day at full market value.
Even worse, all too often the severity of the corrosion damage to wiring harnesses, boards, etc. doesn't manifest itself for weeks and possibly months after the flooding event.
With regard to your floors: When you re-do the floors, ALWAYS buy an extra flat of flooring, so you can repair sections with the same run/type/style of flooring. I do this with roofing materials, carpet, flooring, tiles, and some things for my cars too, like center caps and those little plastic shift cable clips that hold the cables to the trans and the stick. They are a known fail item. If you have an extra one, you aren't stranded!
Hi Ray. Nice to see you're able to approach some sense of normalcy again. I continue to admire your capacity for measured logic and patience for sleuthing; especially in this electrical problem. Thanks for sharing, 'cause it filters down to a lot of other folks who want to do better as well.
Ray, you need to have secure gateway access. When you bring your apollo back to work have it updated. The new update is badass and unlocks alot of new stuff. Buy an fca auto authorization when you can, its hella cheap and register your scan tool to it.
@@chrisfritz6261 So true . Back in the early 80's my brother had a 1972 ford maverick . He once took a curve too fast and slid into a ditch hitting a bolder which crusher the rear quarter panel . We pushed the car out of the ditch and drove it home . He spent several hours with a hammer knocking out dents then drove it for several more years .
@@chrisfritz6261 : "Cars are built for the wow factor nowadays. They really are not built to take alot of abuse and last a long time like they once were." This. Vehicles have become a luxury item to pamper us rather than a rugged machine for transportation.
Glad to see you back investigating! The hurricane you , your family, friends and so many others endured brought despair, destruction and tragedy that we have become so very numb to seeing on a daily basis. But in your video's and countless other video reports I consistently heard these words, "We checked on neighbors and they....." . It reminded me that amongst all the horror & tragedy we see daily that there is a far stronger force than any storm or tragedy. Our natural instinct to care for and help those in need is far greater than any force, manmade or natural, we will ever encounter. A man fixing a car, caring about the owner, the car and doing the right thing reminds us daily of that good in human nature, we just need to open our eyes a bit more. We will all be happier we did, thanks Ray (and all those who help and are helping)!
Morning Ray! Just curious, check the transmission to see if water entered through the breather. Maybe a fluid change now could avoid catastrophe down the road? Hopefully it can.
This is a very common complaint up here in Canada where they use copious amounts of de-icing salt on the roads in winter. The seat mounting bolts would probably have sheared off as well due to corrosion. I will still take winter snow and ice over what you guys just went through. Take care!
The salting of roads is a terrible idea. It just encourages people to drive faster so when they hit a spot where water drains back across the road or a bit got missed, they crash. They should just leave them with a touch of snow and the people who drive like idiots need their license revoked.
Ray, it is wonderful to see you back at work! Well, back at work is not wonderful ... you know what I mean. Thanks for sharing your family's hurricane experience and keep up the great content.
@@johnburton2534 hehe i got spotted watching the master. the chickens are good thanks mate,got them a new shed to live for winter that's being delivered as soon as the company sorts itself out.vid coming soon Cheers John🐓🐔🐣
Once the carpet gets wet the water evaporates and gets in everything and that car will have gremlins forever ! I dealt with it in New Orleans in the 90's and 2000's. The insurance rule then was if the water reaches the seat, it's totaled .
I have found it most useful to check the many chassis grounds on Chrysler products if you live in a corrosion belt area. There are two located on the backside of cross support of the front floor pan of the Chargers inside under the flooring. I cleaned up about ten grounds all together and the car runs like new without the parts cannon being fired at it for intermittent issues which is always the dealer's offer. I also recommend checking under the front driver's carpet where the firewall and the tranny meet for corrosion. While in the trunk pull the battery out with the tray and fusebox and inspect under underneath. You would be surprised what nastiness can hide there. Inspect rear trunk corners and the many perforations drilled for drain plugs and wiring. They are a source for the corrosion to start. Additionally I would inspect the starter wiring because those connectors are prone to damage as well. The main cabling bundles in Chargers originate in the battery side of the trunk run over the passenger side rear wheel well and split across the rear floor to feed equipment on both sides of the car. The bulk of the remaining bundles continue along the inside of rockers to meet dash and firewall connections. I don't claim to be an expert but I am very familiar with these cars in particular so I hope you find this info useful. Thanks for this channel . I wish all shops had honest and thorough mechanics like you. You must have the service advisors to match because everyone loves to rag on the mechanic without understanding the role of "service advisor" in their scenario. LoL
The ability to think outside of the box is the difference between a good technician and a great technician, and that drill trick was so far outside of the box that the box looked like a little dot.
Not sure why I am hooked on Ray's videos . . I used to wrench all the time when I was younger.. but now in the past 3 days I've worked on and fixed 3 cars including one of my own. . Thanks Ray. .
As a retired automotive field engineer I can tell you our phones would start ringing within days of a flood, asking us the manufacturer/distributor to pay for the damage. The other thing that happens is the cars end up being minimally repaired and sold to an unsuspecting buyer.
Good morning Ray, glad to see y'all managed to get through the storm ok. I never doubted your ability to take care of your family 💪💯. As for the car you're working on I'll bet when the insurance adjuster is going to total it cause of flood damage. There's going to be more than just the front seat. There's a crap load of electrical components under the car. Note to self park the car on high ground or in the garage. Too bad it looked pretty clean. Stay safe and American Strong my friend 🇺🇸🇺🇸💪💯
Great to see you getting back to normal. It would be useful if you showed the circuit boards sometimes, for the uninsured folks to see if any cheaper repair is possible. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us
reminds me of flood of 97 in our area. A console copier came in that was totally submersed. These were totalled, we were salvaging them for anything usable. Pulled the back panel and a wall of mud came pouring out. Good times.
That's true. The owner of this vehicle should have towed it to the insurance adjuster to be totalled instead of having it detailed . Why do I think the owner intends to "flip it"?
Did you guys catch where Ray used the locking feature on the drill. He tightened down the drill then did a one click rotation of the chuck counter clockwise so the drill chuck would lock and not come loose while using the drill in reverse....pretty cool feature that most people do no know is there....including me until i seen a video on it the other day.
I actually learnt this when I was working as a electrical engineer by accident some drills don't have this so I normally use the drill to do automatic clicks so my bit doesn't come out
It's amazing how such a BS video can make it around and be recommended to everyone within a few days - almost like YT likes spreading misinformation for the "engagement" on purpose!
As long as the adjuster has to look at it, be sure to show him the bad connector in the trunk too. No point in fixing the seat and have a bad (high resistance) connection in the trunk. Guess it goes without saying you have to be sure to get the seat aligned with the tracks before putting the new motor in. My Jeep Grand Cherokee has a hiding space under the drivers seat just chock full of electronics on the higher end models. Looks like a great place to hold water in a flood.
My dad just called me telling me his car smells inside... he lives in Venice right where Ian came ashore and his car was up to the middle of the doors in water. He lives in a low spot and theres still 12" of water in his road and driveway. Hes been driving it around and said it felt like it was slipping a little... no shit you got salt water into the transmission through the vent. He refuses to get it looked at though, just too stubborn. Its gonna be full of mold and corrosion but he won't listen to me.
Ray, take a leaf out of Eric O.'s book when testing power supply lines and connections. Getting a voltage on those does not mean they're good. They could also be high-resistance, in which case the voltage will collapse when you try drawing any current. Eric uses a headlight lamp socket with two wires sticking out, which he can wire in between power and ground and check if he gets any Amps across. Ideally you'd test with the power draw it's rated for, but a powerful bulb will do as well. If it lights, it's probably okay. If you want to go extra sure, you can also measure the voltage. If it drops much below 12 there might be something wrong.
So many motors and wires under the seat more connections than my old desktop computer. Water plus electronics = So many problems. Thats why i like older cars less wires less electronic things to go so wrong. Great Video and good to see you back in the Shop fixing and trouble shooting another video.
I found a nice pre owned Chevy SS at a local dealer a while back. Heavy perfume smell in the interior and the seat rails were rusty. I asked them why they were selling a flood car. Got the deer in the headlights look. Last I heard they still had it. Would’ve been a great parts car though👍
Ps I know he is working on a Challenger. I own Chargers and only comment on personal experience however my point was that the Chargers, Challengers and 300s share components and similarities so it is worth reviewing all the areas mentioned in a used Chrysler.
After the 2011 floods in Brisbane, Australia I replaced a large quantity of data sockets in affected buildings. All the pins had corroded out of them. In one of the industrial areas, the flood water had stripped the varnish off a timber door. The floods earlier this year were a lot cleaner but there was still a lot of corroded sockets that had to be replaced.
Remarkable chuck on that drill you used to move the seat forward. I doubt mine would be able to clamp down that narrow with that much forward pressure. Wouldn't fit in that space either, come to think of it. So what I'm saying is I might pick up some M12 gear tomorrow.
With the seat padding being wet, too, I would recommend replacing the padding and upholstery as well. That moisture against those electrical connectors and motors is a recipe for more corrosion as well as mold and mildew growth. I also think a close look at the carpet would be in order. Water inside a vehicle is very bad juju. There are no winners with flood damaged vehicles.
I wouldn't trust that seat as far as I could throw it. The SRS are fried, heater fried. Those SRS sensors are potted. If Mopar had just used Weather-Pak connectors, and potted all their modules. That seat is easily $1k. Salty rain!
I have repaired flood vehicles for my own use before. I typically need to replace any computer, amp, DVD whatever that is tucked under the seat. I'm surprised the seat motor worked, get some anti corrosion spray on that. As soon as I saw the rusted rails and you mentioned water I knew the memory seat control unit was toast. I live in NM. NM, AZ, NV are great states for flood vehicles because they dry out quickly. Florida, not so much.
Very creative as usual, impressive. I see you are someone who likes having the right too. After 40+ years in the industry a few suggestions that might make your life easier. For testing take a length of gas welding rod sharpened to a pinpoint,slide some rubber hose over it to prevent short circuits and you can back probe or pierce wires from a long ways a way. For hard to reach connectors a pair of compound needle nose and a long screw driver to release the lock works wonders. Any time you replace a wiring harness save the connectors with a length of wire attached, many connectors work across years makes and models. If you don’t have the right connectors, buy a box of OEM terminals, solder a length of wire on and insulate them with some heat shrink tubing and you are good to go. Not to mention names,their are companies ( p***** point) that make kits that have the most common connectors all ready. Remember, working smart saves you time and money. Keep up your thorough and cogencies work.😊😊
Good video. I spent six and a half years on strictly Charger/Challenger and very few Darts. Had many seats out. I called the Dart "the carbon credit car." Chrysler knew the Dart would be a loss but used the carbon credits to build more trucks. That's how it works
I like how the owner lets you figure everything out from scratch, rather than giving you useful hints like “it was parked in a pond overnight, 3 days before the seat quit working”
Really should have a report. Much like when you go to the doctor. When where what how long. And some history.
Waded through water. Has a engine transplant. Etc...
@@turboflush the patient always lies. Didn’t you watch House?
I think the service adviser is often guilty of filtering out too much between customer and mechanic. Or not asking enough questions.Of course, a lot of customers aren't very good with the details because they don't ... know anything. They'd mention the flooding if they knew that affected electrical things, but they don't necessarily even make that connection!
@@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261 x
@@BlackSoap361
The rust on the seat rails and the fact you feel moisture says it all. Good job in hunting down this issue. You the man.
We repair a lot of corroded connectors along the floors in the salt belt. Usually airbag codes first as they are sensitive to resistance values. People drag in snow and salt off their shoes all winter long. Manufacturers really should be using weather pack connectors inside vehicles.
Oh, but that would cost more for the manufacturer. Most profit for least expense rules business now a days
Probably the best thing to do if one intends to keep the vehicle for a long time and is located in a region that's bad for corrosion is go through the entire vehicle with dielectric grease and grease every exposed connector it would be a slow tedious process but it would pay off in the long run.
By not adding weather pack connectors, that saves $.05 per vehicle, which adds-up. Translated: the yearly HOA fee to the executive’s condo in the Bahamas.
Or.... just buy a cheap beater car and keep your actual daily car nice and shiny for when the weather gets nasty. Or you could even buy a cheap scooter/bike, if you don't have space for 2 cars.
People should be using downward airflow and not straight in your face that has no real purpose. My middle vents are closed as I want air to come out below and for windows.
Ray you are the step up from the channel I used to watch 8 years ago on TH-cam, they turned into it's profits went from 500$ fixes to fixing only bmws and track cars. Abandoning most people looking for general knowledge. You come after a storm and probe under seats man. Your awesome and I'm sure people would agree that this is more helpful than flashy parts
Who dat? Scotty Kilmer?? haha South Main Auto, Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, and Watch Wess Work are also really good automotive channels
What channel was that?
that's what brought most of us here, just a normal guy fixing normal cars. he's great!
@@gorak9000 scotty kilmer talks too much for my liking anymore
@@littlewazz scotty kilmer is kindof the "butt of the joke" of youtube automotive repair channels these days - you won't learn squat from watching him, just spend your time getting screeched at by him. If you actually want to learn to fix anything, or just good diagnostic procedure in general that you can really apply to any field, watch any of the other 3 channels I mentioned above, or this one.
One look at the rust covered seat rails pretty much told the story.
Agreed..noticed that straight away.
Ehh.. not necessarily. Those rails are exposed and not treated from the factory. Florida, is a high humidity region. So, the car just being in Florida it is very reasonable for those rails to have a bit of surface rust.
Possibly need entire seat. There will be issues with mold etc. Maybe even carpet too.
Dodge charger seat rail rust is a given. They are bare or barely treated. It's normal
rust is fine, youll see it on the untreated metal within the dash as well. its the bright orange fresh rust that says it all
28:00 Don't forget the forest from the trees here. The entire under side of that seat is a lovely brown rust color.... 🌊🌊 🌊 Water damaged!
Takes me back to 2016 and 2018 for hurricane Matthew and Florence in the NC and SC area, working as an insurance adjuster. Working the I 95 Corridor, too many hydro locked engines and too many issues just like this. We sent tons to the bone yard. Scary part is how many were then bought (rebuilt) and resold to unsuspecting buyers, who were then nickeled and domed to death because of the exact thing you see here. Great video
Dang.
Are you hinting that there might be (GASP!) unscrupulous people out there who would cheat someone? Say it ain't so!
@@richardfabacher3705 Oh heavens! People surely would never do such things…….🤨
Yep a Titanic car will make a mechanic rich & leave the owner walking - don't say I saved $9K buying a car(rebuilt title) when the wiring & dash has to be replaced -
The flood cars always seem to end up at these mom & pop car dealers. Test drive one, and half the dash warning indicators light up. Used to get so frustrated trying to buy a good, used car.
I can’t believe you have the patience to do the work you do, that is a lot of work. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I'd say one of the best qualities you have Ray, is you're human. You don't talk or act like a tool(robot). I enjoy watching, learning, and having a good laugh. You sir, I find to be a great person all around!! Some day I'll be able to shake your hand and tell you how much I appreciate you and your channel! Have a great day Ray!
I suspect the seat will end up being the least of the problems on this car before long
That was my thought too. The most sensitive things show the damage first, then it keeps on going and going and going.
👍👍👍
Depends on how high the water got and if it was just rain water, salt or contaminated.
yeah this car is going to be a nightmare for the next owner
Salt water from hurricane
8:30 Floor mats in the trunk. Surface rust on seat frame. This Dodge got wet, me thinks.
Very tenacious tracking down all those faults, I think I would have gone tilt at seeing so many fault codes :-)
Simply disconnect the battery and tons of them appear.
Like in most automotive repairs, patience is key. It appears the entire seat should be replaced or at least have the water mitigated and cushions dried prior to installing new components to avoid mold and corrosion
Using a drill to move the seat has to be up with one of the smartest things I have ever seen.
Great to see Florida man Ray and family survived
Have to watch what cars you do that to. Some can't self resync the left and right tracks to prevent binding. Since this one had seat memory it probably can do it on it's own. I just did a repair on a Navigator with memory seats/tilt wheel module issues. Same thing, could not get to the stupid rear seat bolts since when key is shut off the seat slides back.
@@dev-debug I was wondering about that. Can't you just use a tape measure to keep them even?
I would have tried to borrow another drill
@@daveunbranded Yep - Regular drill + 90 degree offset drill would have done the job...providing they rotate at the same RPM - which is kinda unlikely. You'd just have to run them both forward to whatever end-stop they have. But with the seat cushion also full of water - I'd be getting the insurance to replace the entire seat - quit messing around with it.
If I disconnected a salt water-soaked connector I would have sprayed both connectors with dielectric or contact cleaner. I assume it is a good idea to displace the salt water and residue. And what about the other seat?
I spoke to an insurance adjuster who had recently been to Lousy-Anna after a storm. They had hundreds of water damaged cars, so they had to speed the process. If the water line was on the wheels, all fluids were changed. If it had wet carpet, totaled. Who would guess that water would be a problem when you live below sea level. 🤔
I live in Denham Springs Lousyanna, after the great flood of 2016 there were tens of thousands of completely submerged vehicles. I know a few guys who managed to get theirs running again but none lasted more than several months.
Going to be a lot of flood damage repairs after that monster storm came through last week.
Somehow my car ended up 3 blocks from my house in a field on the side of the road, still upright.
@@mykofreder1682 hopefully you’re not underwater
Oh yes.
Yeah you can say the used car market is going to be flooded for a little while....pun intended.
Un fortunately you are right. And many will not follow law in flood damage disclosure as well.
Great troubleshooting Ray !
Enjoy watching you go thru the steps to isolate the problem....
Kudos to you !!!!
Great diagnostics, Ray. I live on the NC coast and have lost several vehicles to flooding over the years. I always wondered exactly what happened under the seat that fried everything.
Well, it's the results of having a battery push current through connectors submerged in extremely conductive salt water. That one pin was completely burned off.
Can't speak for modern stuff, but car modules used to be coated in a waterproof epoxy. Still, with the main power connection burned off, it's garbage.
Water just by itself will corrode all the connectors and electronics, but that will take some time… The real damage happens on a powered circuit. Water conducting across a voltage potential will exponentially corrode all metals as well as dissolve metals with a positive polarity. The module under the seat has continuous battery voltage at all times, even when the vehicle is off. So the reaction starts and doesn’t stop until it dries or it’s cleaned…
Water intrusion
Another great job. I was going to say that next time just remove the seat's front cross rail to get the space you need under the seat. But you eventually figured that out so now I won't mention it.
Glad that you and your family made it through the storm
I dont envy you Ray, I had a similar problem last year with my 2005 Audi A6 Avant.
The passenger side floor go flooded, I had 2 inches of water above the carpet.
That wrecked the Comfort Control Module and all the wiring joints located under the carpet in the passenger footwell. I went through 2 modules until I eventually got it all sorted out. Nightmare, water damage is no fun!
That bright orange rust on unplated parts says it all really - been pretty deep in the water.
Not necessarily. Any raw steel like that will get surface rust. Just look inside any Jeep... In Australia!
(I know what mine is like...)
That or they detailed the interior of the car and used a bit to much water in there and didn’t let it dry enough.
This is Florida. Any water in there vaporizes. Was like a sauna under there. All that vapor attacks bare metal, quick. If it was anywhere but fla. I would agree. I say they left the window open.
@@NemoConsequentae Surface rust formed over time is darker brown though. That orange colour usually signifies salt water or another oxidisation accelerator.
That is flash rust on the bare pieces. No submersion needed. Just wet carpets on a hot day and the humidity under there would flash them quickly.
Glad to see you are well, and back into work already. Storm damage will cause a mass of extra work on vehicles. We had floods in February (Brisbane, Australia). Recently, I was driving along a road in an industrial area, near vehicle scrap yards. Parked on both sides of the road are hundreds of near new vehicles - most likely waiting their turn with the insurance assessors. A feature of all of the cars is they are covered in brown dirt up, and over the roofs. Most likely not enough room in the yards for them, so the road sides has to hold the overflow. There is also years of work ahead to repair all the damaged roads. Driving is like a slalom course of avoiding pot holes, and sections where the bitumen has lifted, and broken up.
There's something incredibly satisfying about a methodical, thorough and analytical diagnostic process.
Good morning Ray yeah looks like you're going to be busy for months with a lot of vehicles that have been damaged from flood
What a mess ! Lesson well taught. Never, never, never buy a flood damage vehicle. Thank you Ray for showing us what happens. Hope you have faired well . Hurricane aftermath is just horrific. Terrible losses incurred by all..
Based on all the codes that are showing on the analyzer, I'd say that the seat and tilt/telescope steering wheel are the least of that owner's flooded car problems!
Seawater (Gulf of Mexico) is highly conductive for DC. The green corrosion is produced when you ionize oxygen, it turns into it's even more corrosive, dielectric big brother- ozone. The terminals fret, causing resistance, producing heat, warping the plastic housing, making it more loose, viscous circle. That smell after lightning- ozone.
Great detective work I despise trying to run down wiring issues you and good old Eric O. makes it look simple hats off to you guys
Yep, I use a 12v cordless ratchet battery to do that kind of stuff. Super handy at junkyards to move / test window actuators, move seats, test window washer pumps, power trunk latches, etc...
There are gonna be a lot of hydrolocked motors after the hurricane
Once salt water gets into a vehicle it really never leaves. The water may leave but it leaves the salt behind and it begins doing what it does best: corrosion.
Once it's gotten into the wiring and electronic devices that car is doomed.
My sister in law had a place at Siesta Key near Fort Myers Beach. The water reached the roofs of the trailers. Her Chrysler convertible is wasted. Too bad, because I waxed it with Collinite last year.
The hydrolocked engine is a ton easier to find than the electrical gremlins that’s come from water
@@spaceflight1019 Yep. My brother lives a mile from the bridge to Ft. Myers Beach and had 3+ feet of surge water in his yard, his '20 Caddy CT5, '00 Ranger, bike, and work van are all toast.
Glad to see you back in the shop. I really got a lot out of this video. The way you diagnosed this seat not working issue was very educational. Will be valuable to me in the future.
Gotta love when the customer costs you (and thereby themselves) time diagnosing things by being to embarrassed to reveal the cause of damage
Exactly, how much has pride costed people over the years.
Like I said in your last video Rust never sleeps. Saltwater intrusion will total that car! You're just seeing the 1st part of its destruction...
We are here for you brother Ray. Thanks for all you do. Many of us watch just because we care. One day at a time
9:45 This is one of those situations where you wish you could put your right hand on your left arm or left hand on right arm to get the proper angle.
Great to have the show back to some kind of normal
My father had a former USDA Chevy pickup that he bought in an auction. The truck was a complete basic barebones vehicle, had a straight 6 cylinder engine, No radio, no antena, or other fancy optional equipment of the Disco era. The passenger side door dig have a big ding in it, but didn’t interfere with the window crank unit, or the opening and closing of the door.
A hurricane that hit South Texas back in 1980 submerged the truck a little bit below the steering wheel. All he replaced were a few engine parts, mechanical parts and an entire wiring loom.
The truck is still alive and well, but in Mexico with a relative.
Older cars are better than these new disposable cars with their fancy pancy, poorly engineered, and unprotected, wiring, electronics, and central area network. That Fiat “Dodge” car is toast!!!! I’m sure Tyler Hoover from Hoovies Garage, would’ve enjoyed purchasing it, and taking it to Car Wizard for an evaluation, and review, of a flood damaged vehicle.
I once diagnosed a very similar situation, except the water damage was the result of years of the eldery owner's umitigated incontinence. Unpleasant.
Glad to see insurance is getting involved for this owner, at least. If it were my call, I'd likely recommend the entire seat be replaced, along with the pigtails on the floor side, code the new module and do a seat weight calibration. As always, just speculation based on the video, as I don't have the vehicle in front of me. :]
Sadly, I'm already starting to see flood vehicles hitting the market here in North Alabama...
Does that mean it was from pee? 😮
@@tylerjoseph7378 Yes! Ack!
Love your videos Ray. If you had used the handle on the top of the seat for the rear access, usually the seat will disconnect from the motorized track and just glide forward. I’ve not worked on the challenger so I could be wrong but most rear passenger don’t want to wait for the motor to move the seat
It is good to see you have your mind back into your work. The rust on the seat rails tells the story.
Salt water and electricity combine for rapid corrosion. If you thought your car might get dunked in salt water, disconnect the battery and wait until all the salt is rinsed out of it using distilled water if possible and it is dry again before reconnecting the battery. Contact cleaner followed up with spray grease on the connectors won't hurt either.
Great to see your mind back into the job. Australia is rooting for you , GO Ray.
In response to the _down under lumins_ ? 🤔 😊
@@valiroime 🙃I didn't miss it and yes hello from Australia🙃
Ditto!
Just need hair around it and that connector would have popped straight back on
Rooting FOR him? I'm sure Ray can do that himself.
These are by far my favorite episodes. Watching you properly diagnose an issue and not just firing the parts cannon, is why I enjoy your work. Thank you Sir.
Pro tip, be very leery of buying used cars ANYWHERE after a major flood. Sometimes these things will end up at auction and get sold hundreds of miles away just waiting to be a PITA for the next owner if the flood damage isn’t disclosed.
and carfax reporting isn't mandatory.
Usually they end up thousands of miles away. The farther away they can send them, the less likely potential buyers will be to suspect the damage. Seeing the registration history helps significantly. These vehicles almost always wind up at a shitty buy here/pay here spot where their bruncle in house parts swapper would go grab a module out of a junkyard car, scratch the greenie stuff off the pins in the connectors and it's on the lot in a day at full market value.
Even worse, all too often the severity of the corrosion damage to wiring harnesses, boards, etc. doesn't manifest itself for weeks and possibly months after the flooding event.
With regard to your floors: When you re-do the floors, ALWAYS buy an extra flat of flooring, so you can repair sections with the same run/type/style of flooring. I do this with roofing materials, carpet, flooring, tiles, and some things for my cars too, like center caps and those little plastic shift cable clips that hold the cables to the trans and the stick. They are a known fail item. If you have an extra one, you aren't stranded!
Hi Ray. Nice to see you're able to approach some sense of normalcy again. I continue to admire your capacity for measured logic and patience for sleuthing; especially in this electrical problem. Thanks for sharing, 'cause it filters down to a lot of other folks who want to do better as well.
Ray, you need to have secure gateway access. When you bring your apollo back to work have it updated. The new update is badass and unlocks alot of new stuff. Buy an fca auto authorization when you can, its hella cheap and register your scan tool to it.
I've always said that the more computers and sensors you have in a car then the more items you have that can go bad .
And the less luxury items people want these days....
The more steps you add to a process, the more chances there are for errors
Cars are built for the wow factor nowadays. They really are not built to take alot of abuse and last a long time like they once were.
@@chrisfritz6261 So true . Back in the early 80's my brother had a 1972 ford maverick . He once took a curve too fast and slid into a ditch hitting a bolder which crusher the rear quarter panel . We pushed the car out of the ditch and drove it home . He spent several hours with a hammer knocking out dents then drove it for several more years .
@@chrisfritz6261 : "Cars are built for the wow factor nowadays. They really are not built to take alot of abuse and last a long time like they once were."
This. Vehicles have become a luxury item to pamper us rather than a rugged machine for transportation.
Excellent display of logic and testing to track down this mess.
Glad to see you back investigating! The hurricane you , your family, friends and so many others endured brought despair, destruction and tragedy that we have become so very numb to seeing on a daily basis. But in your video's and countless other video reports I consistently heard these words, "We checked on neighbors and they....." . It reminded me that amongst all the horror & tragedy we see daily that there is a far stronger force than any storm or tragedy. Our natural instinct to care for and help those in need is far greater than any force, manmade or natural, we will ever encounter. A man fixing a car, caring about the owner, the car and doing the right thing reminds us daily of that good in human nature, we just need to open our eyes a bit more. We will all be happier we did, thanks Ray (and all those who help and are helping)!
Yellow connectors are standardized and are usually related to the airbag system
Morning Ray! Just curious, check the transmission to see if water entered through the breather. Maybe a fluid change now could avoid catastrophe down the road? Hopefully it can.
Its a Chrysler. It wont have a transmission after 85k miles anyway. Just replace it. lol.
Water contamination in a transmission goes beyond fluid change.. Once the water circulates you have internal damage to components.
especially if it's salt water
Water in a transmission will make the clutch material fall apart
@@johnrodriguez473 It trashes everything, your right. I did actually want to play a joke and say "oooh, that don't sound good, is that bad?" LOL
8:38 We can see surface rust on the seat brackets when you 1st looked under the seat...GREAT JOB TRACING THE WIRES/POWER.
Glad to see you back at work buddy ! Hang in there
Great video! Appears the water was over the seats. You are very resourceful in disassembly.
This is a very common complaint up here in Canada where they use copious amounts of de-icing salt on the roads in winter. The seat mounting bolts would probably have sheared off as well due to corrosion. I will still take winter snow and ice over what you guys just went through. Take care!
The salting of roads is a terrible idea. It just encourages people to drive faster so when they hit a spot where water drains back across the road or a bit got missed, they crash. They should just leave them with a touch of snow and the people who drive like idiots need their license revoked.
Ray, it is wonderful to see you back at work! Well, back at work is not wonderful ... you know what I mean. Thanks for sharing your family's hurricane experience and keep up the great content.
Contact cleaner is now your best buddy glad your safe mate
Hows the chickens nbh ?
@@johnburton2534 hehe i got spotted watching the master. the chickens are good thanks mate,got them a new shed to live for winter that's being delivered as soon as the company sorts itself out.vid coming soon Cheers John🐓🐔🐣
Once the carpet gets wet the water evaporates and gets in everything and that car will have gremlins forever ! I dealt with it in New Orleans in the 90's and 2000's. The insurance rule then was if the water reaches the seat, it's totaled .
Can't wait for Part 2 on this.
Nice Ray, I got no patients for the small details like you do but I am learning every day.
I was surprised at how rusty the under seat was, then it all made sense!
I have found it most useful to check the many chassis grounds on Chrysler products if you live in a corrosion belt area. There are two located on the backside of cross support of the front floor pan of the Chargers inside under the flooring. I cleaned up about ten grounds all together and the car runs like new without the parts cannon being fired at it for intermittent issues which is always the dealer's offer. I also recommend checking under the front driver's carpet where the firewall and the tranny meet for corrosion. While in the trunk pull the battery out with the tray and fusebox and inspect under underneath. You would be surprised what nastiness can hide there. Inspect rear trunk corners and the many perforations drilled for drain plugs and wiring. They are a source for the corrosion to start. Additionally I would inspect the starter wiring because those connectors are prone to damage as well. The main cabling bundles in Chargers originate in the battery side of the trunk run over the passenger side rear wheel well and split across the rear floor to feed equipment on both sides of the car. The bulk of the remaining bundles continue along the inside of rockers to meet dash and firewall connections. I don't claim to be an expert but I am very familiar with these cars in particular so I hope you find this info useful. Thanks for this channel . I wish all shops had honest and thorough mechanics like you. You must have the service advisors to match because everyone loves to rag on the mechanic without understanding the role of "service advisor" in their scenario. LoL
Just so people know and don't make a serious mistake. MOST yellow connectors are Airbag (SRS) connectors and back probing them can cause deployment.
Good info. Thanks.
This is the comment I was looking for, before making one. This is 100% correct. 🤙
vinyl floor are awesome for wet areas. It's waterproof and never swells. Click it together or glue it depending on manufacturer.
The ability to think outside of the box is the difference between a good technician and a great technician, and that drill trick was so far outside of the box that the box looked like a little dot.
Why?A shaft spins to move the seat...why wouldnt someone think of using a drill?
Not sure why I am hooked on Ray's videos . . I used to wrench all the time when I was younger.. but now in the past 3 days I've worked on and fixed 3 cars including one of my own. .
Thanks Ray. .
Looking forward to you driving it out of the workshop with you sitting on an upturned bucket. I think the insurance guys might be busy!
ha! a 3-snorter!
As a retired automotive field engineer I can tell you our phones would start ringing within days of a flood, asking us the manufacturer/distributor to pay for the damage. The other thing that happens is the cars end up being minimally repaired and sold to an unsuspecting buyer.
Tell tale sign of rust on the seat panel is a good indicator of water induction. Probably up to the gunnels!
Nice to see you getting back to normal. We prayed for you and your family. Your a good man Ray.
Good morning Ray, glad to see y'all managed to get through the storm ok. I never doubted your ability to take care of your family 💪💯.
As for the car you're working on I'll bet when the insurance adjuster is going to total it cause of flood damage. There's going to be more than just the front seat. There's a crap load of electrical components under the car. Note to self park the car on high ground or in the garage. Too bad it looked pretty clean. Stay safe and American Strong my friend 🇺🇸🇺🇸💪💯
Great to see you getting back to normal. It would be useful if you showed the circuit boards sometimes, for the uninsured folks to see if any cheaper repair is possible. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us
If the bottom of the seat foam is wet, aren't we running the risk of the same problem in the future if the module and harness are replaced?
No, it's long done dripping out.
reminds me of flood of 97 in our area. A console copier came in that was totally submersed. These were totalled, we were salvaging them for anything usable. Pulled the back panel and a wall of mud came pouring out. Good times.
By not sharing important information, the customers are letting themselves in for a long and painful ride.
That's true. The owner of this vehicle should have towed it to the insurance adjuster to be totalled instead of having it detailed . Why do I think the owner intends to "flip it"?
Frankenstein/Halloween...quite funny Ray. Look for Elvira too.
Did you guys catch where Ray used the locking feature on the drill. He tightened down the drill then did a one click rotation of the chuck counter clockwise so the drill chuck would lock and not come loose while using the drill in reverse....pretty cool feature that most people do no know is there....including me until i seen a video on it the other day.
I actually learnt this when I was working as a electrical engineer by accident some drills don't have this so I normally use the drill to do automatic clicks so my bit doesn't come out
Look up AVE he proves it wrong, actually unlocked the ratcheting mechanism that locks the chuck. It will now allow it to come loose
🤣utube recommended it to me to
@@timbo2ssrs I was about to referene AvE's video on it too 👍
It's amazing how such a BS video can make it around and be recommended to everyone within a few days - almost like YT likes spreading misinformation for the "engagement" on purpose!
As long as the adjuster has to look at it, be sure to show him the bad connector in the trunk too. No point in fixing the seat and have a bad (high resistance) connection in the trunk. Guess it goes without saying you have to be sure to get the seat aligned with the tracks before putting the new motor in. My Jeep Grand Cherokee has a hiding space under the drivers seat just chock full of electronics on the higher end models. Looks like a great place to hold water in a flood.
My dad just called me telling me his car smells inside... he lives in Venice right where Ian came ashore and his car was up to the middle of the doors in water. He lives in a low spot and theres still 12" of water in his road and driveway. Hes been driving it around and said it felt like it was slipping a little... no shit you got salt water into the transmission through the vent. He refuses to get it looked at though, just too stubborn. Its gonna be full of mold and corrosion but he won't listen to me.
Probably a lot of denial. With that much water, It probably doesn't matter what he does because the car doesn't have long anyway. Sad.
That wire running to the rear fuse panel was for a Tazer unit from Z Automotive. It allows you to alter the settings in the cars electronics.
Ray, take a leaf out of Eric O.'s book when testing power supply lines and connections. Getting a voltage on those does not mean they're good. They could also be high-resistance, in which case the voltage will collapse when you try drawing any current. Eric uses a headlight lamp socket with two wires sticking out, which he can wire in between power and ground and check if he gets any Amps across. Ideally you'd test with the power draw it's rated for, but a powerful bulb will do as well. If it lights, it's probably okay. If you want to go extra sure, you can also measure the voltage. If it drops much below 12 there might be something wrong.
So many motors and wires under the seat more connections than my old desktop computer. Water plus electronics = So many problems. Thats why i like older cars less wires less electronic things to go so wrong. Great Video and good to see you back in the Shop fixing and trouble shooting another video.
I have to admire your patients when working on something like this.
I found a nice pre owned Chevy SS at a local dealer a while back. Heavy perfume smell in the interior and the seat rails were rusty. I asked them why they were selling a flood car. Got the deer in the headlights look. Last I heard they still had it. Would’ve been a great parts car though👍
Ps I know he is working on a Challenger. I own Chargers and only comment on personal experience however my point was that the Chargers, Challengers and 300s share components and similarities so it is worth reviewing all the areas mentioned in a used Chrysler.
After the 2011 floods in Brisbane, Australia I replaced a large quantity of data sockets in affected buildings. All the pins had corroded out of them. In one of the industrial areas, the flood water had stripped the varnish off a timber door. The floods earlier this year were a lot cleaner but there was still a lot of corroded sockets that had to be replaced.
Remarkable chuck on that drill you used to move the seat forward. I doubt mine would be able to clamp down that narrow with that much forward pressure. Wouldn't fit in that space either, come to think of it. So what I'm saying is I might pick up some M12 gear tomorrow.
With the seat padding being wet, too, I would recommend replacing the padding and upholstery as well. That moisture against those electrical connectors and motors is a recipe for more corrosion as well as mold and mildew growth. I also think a close look at the carpet would be in order. Water inside a vehicle is very bad juju. There are no winners with flood damaged vehicles.
The yellow connector indicates an airbag or two are in the seat. If these may be susceptible to damage, this could be an expensive repair.
I wouldn't trust that seat as far as I could throw it. The SRS are fried, heater fried. Those SRS sensors are potted. If Mopar had just used Weather-Pak connectors, and potted all their modules. That seat is easily $1k. Salty rain!
I have repaired flood vehicles for my own use before. I typically need to replace any computer, amp, DVD whatever that is tucked under the seat. I'm surprised the seat motor worked, get some anti corrosion spray on that. As soon as I saw the rusted rails and you mentioned water I knew the memory seat control unit was toast. I live in NM. NM, AZ, NV are great states for flood vehicles because they dry out quickly. Florida, not so much.
FYI...2018+ Chrysler products also have a star module that can block some OBD readers.
It makes programming keys fun.
Very creative as usual, impressive. I see you are someone who likes having the right too. After 40+ years in the industry a few suggestions that might make your life easier. For testing take a length of gas welding rod sharpened to a pinpoint,slide some rubber hose over it to prevent short circuits and you can back probe or pierce wires from a long ways a way. For hard to reach connectors a pair of compound needle nose and a long screw driver to release the lock works wonders. Any time you replace a wiring harness save the connectors with a length of wire attached, many connectors work across years makes and models. If you don’t have the right connectors, buy a box of OEM terminals, solder a length of wire on and insulate them with some heat shrink tubing and you are good to go. Not to mention names,their are companies ( p***** point) that make kits that have the most common connectors all ready. Remember, working smart saves you time and money. Keep up your thorough and cogencies work.😊😊
Ray is back!! all is right in the world...we all wish....atleast he's back!
More likely than not, it will be totalled out. Especially when mold WILL be found once the carpeting is removed.
Glad you and your family are doing well for the short time i missed you good to hear your humor 😀
Good video. I spent six and a half years on strictly Charger/Challenger and very few Darts. Had many seats out. I called the Dart "the carbon credit car." Chrysler knew the Dart would be a loss but used the carbon credits to build more trucks. That's how it works
so gald you are safe that storm was scary