Your a rockin mechanic, most shops around me fix stuff with as little effort possible. Iv never seen a mechanic take as much care as you do (unless there workin on thier stuff) Your one of the old breed, keep it up brother
It's amazing how expensive some of those specialized parts can be. The fuel tank you mentioned for $100+ for that roto-tiller cost the same as a new 42-gallon tank for my old Chevy!
This is what Briggs & Stratton calls the "Koolbore" engine. No main roller bearings, splash type oil lubrication, and no inner cylinder sleeve. Just aluminum cylinder. Some people call them junk engines. That's really not the case. I have one on a roto-tiller that my dad had, and now I have it. The way to make these engines last, is to change oil more often than other engines. Make sure it is full of oil before use. These engines do burn oil right from new. Just the nature of the beast! When using these engines, just make sure not to over heat them. Quite easy to happen. Just don't run them at full throttle. Let them cool down after 20-30 minutes of use. Still run mine and it still runs good for an engine made in 1973. One more thing is to pop the head and clean the carbon off the top of the piston. As said in the video.......the carbon severely dammaged the cylinder.
these engine are the best I have them in all my machines the key is to put mystery oil in the gas for upper cylinder lube and to keep the rubber diaphragm in the carb soft
Donny, thank you so much ! I'm doing my first tear down and rebuild of a 1972 Briggs 3 hp horizontal engine... I know I can do a reverse step by step from this to rebuild... Thank you again so much - Warren 👊😎🙏
Old vid.. but a handy one. I found a big old cement mixer on my property in the woods. It spent at least 20 yrs in the woods. Same engine. Rather than rebuilding tho, I bought (for 50 bucks) a running replacement. BUT... The replacement has a 3/4 smooth shaft... The mixer engine has a 3/4 shaft with teeth for the 6:1 gear reducer. Soooo... I'm simply putting the old crankshaft and crankcase cover, made to accept the reducer box, into the "new to me" engine... Which is super clean and smooth running. Pretty straightforward with a little patience and research. Including this vid.
great vid as always. I always remove the annoying sponge from those gas tanks before they become the root of many problems. I still do not know why briggs did that but before I do any carb/fuel-related repair, I always yank that sponge right out of there.
Wow I the cost of a short block in Canada is wildly expensive, yes I agree with you ,the oiler rings tolerance appeared to be to tight that would definitely allow improper excessive blow by, I agree that's why the piston was carboned so badly !I'm rebuilding a 1974 briggs 3.5 hp for a fellow he just wants it built to run, so he can have a running antique engine, I was big time surprised all of the o.e.m. parts are still available even the o.e.m. paint in a rattle can is available i want to thank you , for all of the education you have shared with me, on small engines, I have recently been showing the neighborhood kids 9-14 years old how to do the things I have learned by following your lessons with small engines you have been a wonderful teacher to us, again thank you!
Excellent video, also isn't there an option to bore the cylinder (send it out) and then go over size on the piston what it takes to get past the scoring? Better than guessing piston sizes with a hone and having it lock up later?
Nice video Dony. Your disassembly was very instructive and showing and explaining carbon build up helpful. I have older 5hp that I'd like to get manual for from B&S site to replace/repair recoil that does not retract well but darned if I can locate any data plate. Any ideas where to look? Thanks.
thanks dony had gottne the sump cover off and couldnt figure out how to fix the insides and I knew there was some timing marks but thanks to you now I know what to do million thanks
What if there is only one dot on your camshaft and not on the crankshaft and when you pulled out the camshaft both of the pushrods fell out at the same time how do you know which one is which.
Dony. Gday again from Boo in Perth Australia. I am so absorbed watching your vids.I have no idea right now on most of the great stuff you show, but it's fascinating for me.Here's my silly question. What are those gloves you wear.Are they long lasting or do they just look that way.Let me know please as I haven't found a good hard-wearing glove in Australia. Also, any chance you can make a simple vid about how a simple engine works. ie spark piston valve crank etc. i am 51 and learning finally.ty
I have the same engine. I'm using a screw in muffler but it rattles off because its on a go kart. The holes for the muffler have to broken bolts in the, it looks like someone tried to drill into it and use an extractor but failed. How hard would it be to get those out or if its even possible.
Cheers for the video! What happens if you mix up the pushrods, does it cause damage? And how would you know which is meant to go where if you happened to mix them up?
Hello Donyboy! last week I removed the crank shaft from a 5hp Briggs and both push rods fell out at the same time. What can be done to tell which one goes where.
i took my one engine apart and forgot to mark my intake and exhaust lifter how can i tell which is which and does it really matter which is which thanks
@@Smalltechguy I know this is a old comment but hes talking about Briggs lifters (some call them pushrods),on 90% of these engines they are identical,he wasn't talking about valves and yes, on the valves the big one is intake and the small exhaust.
I don't think the damage on the cylinder wall was caused by carbon - it looks like the engine was run out of oil - this damage is consistent with a lack of lubrication.
Fantastically made video. It drives me nuts when people ramble on videos, but you keep comments short and relevant. I also like how you show the action and then edit the video so that the next shot quickly skips to the next step. Maybe your next video should be a how to make a how to video!
Actually i was told by my instructor at tech that there is difference between honing and boreing! Honing pretty much only refurbishes the cylinder and removes the scratches and boring actually removes metal!
sorry to bother you again but i have tried to remove the crankcase from a briggs and stratton 35 classic and it will only come off around 1/4 inch and will not move any futher i have tried pullers hammer air hammers you name it and it will still not come off is there something else holding the crankcase to the engine or is it just locked to the shaft? Thanks again
My Craftsman chipper/shredder has the same 5 hp Briggs as the one in this video only the air cleaner is different. The chipper was actually given to me non running, I guess the guy just bought a new one. The problem it was having is that the carb wasn't pulling fuel up from the tank so I pulled the carb off, thoroughly cleaned it, drained the old gas out of the tank and when I took the fuel pump apart which is on the side of the carb under a removable cover and found that someone put the spring on the wrong side of the diaphragm so it wasn't allowing it to pump fuel which was obviously a simple fix. After I put the carb back on and put fresh gas in, it fired up and runs great.
Hi Dony will you be build to rebuild my Tecumseh OHSK110 ,OHV , 11HP engine with a blown out crankcase? Im sure its a very busy time for you at the moment.
Great video, hone the cylinder and use the same piston, put in the new rings and that is good enough. Another option is to go with a new engine, 3/4in shaft and add a shaft adapter.
this vid is gonna help me out a ton. i have an older model of that leaf blower vac and it seized up on me the other day. stupid me didnt check the oil in the 30yr old engine that i got off of craigslist. ive never done a rebuild and this is gonna save me alot of pondering. also saw the other vid on how to remove the fan. thanks for posting these videos.
hey donyboy i have a problem with a honda gx270 8hp that when it is accelerated or decelerate it just kicksback like crazy all over the place out of control what do u think it could be
I have a Sycamore mower we bought new in '66 with the 3.5 hp Briggs Koolbore. Still a 1 or 2 pull start engine. Life depends on the level of care you give it. Sadly, most don't...
Dony I am currently rebuilding a Briggs motor from a mower and one of the bolts on the cap that is on the connecting rod and crankshaft is rounded out, the other bolt came out easily but the other bolt is not and the head is rounded out, how should I get this stubborn bolt out??
Online 5hp rebuild kits are cheap for these old Briggs engine's, you can over size the cylinder and get an oversized piston as well, OPTION 2 get a Running IC 5hp engine you can find them all over used and swap the crankshafts 👍
yea take the two bolts out of the connector rod that holds it to the crank shaft like at 3:30 in the video and push the piston out the other way (out through the front of the head) instead of pulling it out the bottom because the crank shaft will be in the way
How do you control the amount taken off by honing so you match what oversized piston and rings you intend to use? Seems boring the cylinder is the better way to approach any over size.
Man those parts prices are Wicked!!!! That sure encourages me to keep collecting these engines from the scrap yard!!! Perhaps I can track you down a used block here :)
I got a 2 stroke demo/concrete saw with a burnt/scorched piston. Very low compression. It cost $350 for a new cylinder/piston kit. Would it be worth it to have a machine shop bore it out with a new piston?
Yeah, the best bet is to get a good used engine and just change the crankshaft.. also I have found that when overhauling any briggs engine with an aluminum block it is best to spend a little more and put in chrome rings,, if it has a steel sleeve it is best to use cast iron rings.
Ran into big problem took sump cover off and while removing rod from crank one of the bolts got stripped. Just the head. Vise grips didn't help. Anyone know a good trick to get it off??
hey dony , i have found a gas station that sells non ethanol gas, but its only 87 octane, i would like to make it 89 or higher, foe my small engines, is their a additive i can buy that will bring up the octane ? i have herd that some octane boosters are pretty much fake.
hello donyboy 73 really enjoy your videos, actually have learned a great deal. thanks!! say would you consider a video and explain the clearance between the piston and cylinder wall ?? thanks jim
Hi there love your videos. Very informative. My question is, a type B1 briggs and Stratton the same as a type E1? I just want to change a broken crank shaft. Thanks
Another great video and wording. I am having issues with 2 mowers that just decided to stop running even after replacing the carbs on both of them. The one briggs does show to have 60 PSI compression. The other mower the fuel was leaking into the crankcase so I thought best to replace the carbs thus ending that nightmare. It ran fine and no more oil was coming out the muffler. I did lift the cover off of the one briggs just to see if the flywheel key was broken, but both the mowers have spark...any words of encouragement is much appreciated.
I HAVE AN 15.5 BRIGGS AND OIL IS GETTING INTO THE[ CARB] SIDE I ADD OIL TO CRACK CASE AND IT ENDS UP IN THE [CARB] HOUSING HOW DO YOU REPAIR OR CAN IT BE REPAIRED. THANKS GARY [DISABLE] VET wortass2@aol.com
Hi Donny. Your videos are excellent! Can I get some advice? Observations: My tiller won't start. I have spark (used a tester). Took off manifold and have black on top of valves with little carbon on piston. Piston moves up/down freely when rotating flywheel or outer engine pulley. No scoring at all when I move piston to the down position. But both intake and exhaust are slightly raised when piston brought to at the highest point of the piston; they are not seated. This is probably why there is no compression - air leaking out. Question: Is there a way to adjust the valves to seat when piston is raised? Or do I need to rebuild something? (I saw your video when you removed the piston -- disassembled the engine).
Sometimes it's not a bad idea to use a little emery paper to polish off the rust on the crank shaft between where the flywheel ends and the crank seal begins. Otherwise, forcing out the crank that way can booger up the bearing surface in the timing cover.
thanks for video I know your along away from me but im on a quest to find some old briggs , cilton are any older motor to restore with my son if you have any leads are anyone you talk with I would thank you for the help
Hey Don, I just want to let you know that people (like me) often refer to your Vids. I have grown in basic small engine repair ability because of Vids like yours. So an accolade from Australia for ya!
Hello I have 5.25 hp briggs and stratton engine. It was runing then after 5 minutes engine shuts off and now piston is not moving . I want to where I can buy the part for this engine please let me know thank you
My mother buyed a briggs powered mower in 96, he never change oil for nine years until i grow up ad i do it, now i regulary Service it wit 5 40 sint oil, ive cleaned once the carb when it doesnt start, engine is running mint And start at first pull, it doesnt drink oil And i want keep it for life And If dies buy a new engine because is magnesium deck And i love it, its a very strong machine its a dolmar 4546
I have the exact same engine as yours and it was burning oil, so it has like a 0,5mm deep scratch in it. Do you think it is possible to repair it with one of these Ebay honing tools for your drill?
hello sir, I'm repairing b&s 5hp eng mod#1300 I had poor compression 45psi & lapped valves & I put new rings & I honed cylinder & it pops back thru carb & checked timing & lined timing marks but eng is not TDC ? that ok ?? what causes pop?? sound timing off??
Hey don I have a 1979 mastercraft snowblower with a 5 oMr 4 hp Briggs engine.... It won't start.... The valve clearance is good and it has ok compression ,... I just drained the oil and the was quite a bit of gas in it .... It also has good spark ... If u have any suggestion that would be greatly appreciated thanks a lot
the connecting rods on my Briggs has a metal lip on it I can't remove the fastener with out prying if off. is it ok to pry it off?? or how do I remove it thank you
@richardwernst. I have no clue what the sponge is for. My best guess is to stop the fuel from sloshing around to much. But with today's gas, the ethanol ears it up and reaks havoc In the carb. As I said I removed the sponge And the thing runs better now then it did without it.
Thanks for a clearly-detailed video, and for planning all the camera angles well. The audio level was easy to understand, but at the very first, you began speaking in a low-volume and rapidly, so the words slur together. You could provide a screen caption for that part, which would spare you the need to re-record that opening segment. Your concern for quality production values speaks for itself, so I subscribed.
Lots of good tips in this vid! Taking a few pictures, is always a really good idea, since they can prove to be better than the best memory! Great vid Donyboy! :)
All your vids are clear, steady and well explained. My preferred tutorials. Thank you.
Your a rockin mechanic, most shops around me fix stuff with as little effort possible. Iv never seen a mechanic take as much care as you do (unless there workin on thier stuff) Your one of the old breed, keep it up brother
It's amazing how expensive some of those specialized parts can be. The fuel tank you mentioned for $100+ for that roto-tiller cost the same as a new 42-gallon tank for my old Chevy!
This is what Briggs & Stratton calls the "Koolbore" engine. No main roller bearings, splash type oil lubrication, and no inner cylinder sleeve. Just aluminum cylinder.
Some people call them junk engines. That's really not the case. I have one on a roto-tiller that my dad had, and now I have it. The way to make these engines last, is to change oil more often than other engines. Make sure it is full of oil before use. These engines do burn oil right from new. Just the nature of the beast! When using these engines, just make sure not to over heat them. Quite easy to happen. Just don't run them at full throttle. Let them cool down after 20-30 minutes of use. Still run mine and it still runs good for an engine made in 1973. One more thing is to pop the head and clean the carbon off the top of the piston. As said in the video.......the carbon severely dammaged the cylinder.
these engine are the best I have them in all my machines the key is to put mystery oil in the gas for upper cylinder lube and to keep the rubber diaphragm in the carb soft
Donny, thank you so much ! I'm doing my first tear down and rebuild of a 1972 Briggs 3 hp horizontal engine... I know I can do a reverse step by step from this to rebuild... Thank you again so much - Warren 👊😎🙏
Found this channel a week ago and have been watching everyday so honestly you are small engine LEGEND..
Old vid.. but a handy one. I found a big old cement mixer on my property in the woods. It spent at least 20 yrs in the woods. Same engine. Rather than rebuilding tho, I bought (for 50 bucks) a running replacement. BUT... The replacement has a 3/4 smooth shaft... The mixer engine has a 3/4 shaft with teeth for the 6:1 gear reducer. Soooo... I'm simply putting the old crankshaft and crankcase cover, made to accept the reducer box, into the "new to me" engine... Which is super clean and smooth running.
Pretty straightforward with a little patience and research. Including this vid.
Cool trick for the flywheel! I have usually put on a puller and pried the wheel in different spots.
Awesome! You are on my top 3 small engine subscriber videos.
great vid as always. I always remove the annoying sponge from those gas tanks before they become the root of many problems. I still do not know why briggs did that but before I do any carb/fuel-related repair, I always yank that sponge right out of there.
Wow I the cost of a short block in Canada is wildly expensive, yes I agree with you ,the oiler rings tolerance appeared to be to tight that would definitely allow improper excessive blow by, I agree that's why the piston was carboned so badly !I'm rebuilding a 1974 briggs 3.5 hp for a fellow he just wants it built to run, so he can have a running antique engine, I was big time surprised all of the o.e.m. parts are still available even the o.e.m. paint in a rattle can is available i want to thank you , for all of the education you have shared with me, on small engines, I have recently been showing the neighborhood kids 9-14 years old how to do the things I have learned by following your lessons with small engines you have been a wonderful teacher to us, again thank you!
That was a nice trick using the air hammer to remove the flywheel. Thanks for that.
Excellent video, also isn't there an option to bore the cylinder (send it out) and then go over size on the piston what it takes to get past the scoring? Better than guessing piston sizes with a hone and having it lock up later?
Doing my first complete rebuild of flathead engine 158ccbriggs. What's best way to shine crankcase up any cleaner or just a good wipe down?
Nice video Dony. Your disassembly was very instructive and showing and explaining carbon build up helpful. I have older 5hp that I'd like to get manual for from B&S site to replace/repair recoil that does not retract well but darned if I can locate any data plate. Any ideas where to look? Thanks.
thanks dony had gottne the sump cover off and couldnt figure out how to fix the insides and I knew there was some timing marks but thanks to you now I know what to do million thanks
Hey donny, when i remove the crankcase cover, i clean the rust off the shaft with crocus cloth. It slides right off then.
nice tutorial, did you get to keep the engine for spares?
Dony do you have the equipment /ability to hone a cylinder at your shop. or does it have to be sent out to a machine shop?
What if there is only one dot on your camshaft and not on the crankshaft and when you pulled out the camshaft both of the pushrods fell out at the same time how do you know which one is which.
Dony. Gday again from Boo in Perth Australia. I am so absorbed watching your vids.I have no idea right now on most of the great stuff you show, but it's fascinating for me.Here's my silly question. What are those gloves you wear.Are they long lasting or do they just look that way.Let me know please as I haven't found a good hard-wearing glove in Australia. Also, any chance you can make a simple vid about how a simple engine works. ie spark piston valve crank etc. i am 51 and learning finally.ty
I have the same engine. I'm using a screw in muffler but it rattles off because its on a go kart. The holes for the muffler have to broken bolts in the, it looks like someone tried to drill into it and use an extractor but failed. How hard would it be to get those out or if its even possible.
Cheers for the video! What happens if you mix up the pushrods, does it cause damage? And how would you know which is meant to go where if you happened to mix them up?
Congratulations for your videos. Clear, good quality, useful.
Nice gloves you are wearing. What are those made of?
Are they confortable? Are they sensitive?
Hello Donyboy! last week I removed the crank shaft from a 5hp Briggs and both push rods fell out at the same time. What can be done to tell which one goes where.
i took my one engine apart and forgot to mark my intake and exhaust lifter how can i tell which is which and does it really matter which is which
thanks
David Abraham
Always remember that your engine needs air so that would be the big valve and the smaller is exhaust
@@Smalltechguy I know this is a old comment but hes talking about Briggs lifters (some call them pushrods),on 90% of these engines they are identical,he wasn't talking about valves and yes, on the valves the big one is intake and the small exhaust.
I don't think the damage on the cylinder wall was caused by carbon - it looks like the engine was run out of oil - this damage is consistent with a lack of lubrication.
@@chickenmaster7069 Una vez que se araña asi como ese asi lo limpies( Honing) se PEGA aun arrancando en frio NO VA MAS The END! B&S Scrap!
Fantastically made video. It drives me nuts when people ramble on videos, but you keep comments short and relevant. I also like how you show the action and then edit the video so that the next shot quickly skips to the next step. Maybe your next video should be a how to make a how to video!
Actually i was told by my instructor at tech that there is difference between honing and boreing! Honing pretty much only refurbishes the cylinder and removes the scratches and boring actually removes metal!
sorry to bother you again but i have tried to remove the crankcase from a briggs and stratton 35 classic and it will only come off around 1/4 inch and will not move any futher i have tried pullers hammer air hammers you name it and it will still not come off is there something else holding the crankcase to the engine or is it just locked to the shaft?
Thanks again
My Craftsman chipper/shredder has the same 5 hp Briggs as the one in this video only the air cleaner is different. The chipper was actually given to me non running, I guess the guy just bought a new one. The problem it was having is that the carb wasn't pulling fuel up from the tank so I pulled the carb off, thoroughly cleaned it, drained the old gas out of the tank and when I took the fuel pump apart which is on the side of the carb under a removable cover and found that someone put the spring on the wrong side of the diaphragm so it wasn't allowing it to pump fuel which was obviously a simple fix. After I put the carb back on and put fresh gas in, it fired up and runs great.
Hi Dony will you be build to rebuild my Tecumseh OHSK110 ,OHV , 11HP engine with a blown out crankcase? Im sure its a very busy time for you at the moment.
G'day Don, I was just wondering. After the tear-down, were you able to go ahead, & rebuild this 5hp Briggs & Stratton Engine?
can you put the crank in another motor,,
Thanks ...what size shaft thought
your videos are clear and concise thanks
Great video, hone the cylinder and use the same piston, put in the new rings and that is good enough. Another option is to go with a new engine, 3/4in shaft and add a shaft adapter.
Dear, I have 2800watt kohler generator but my genrator not give me proper efficiency what i do ?
this vid is gonna help me out a ton. i have an older model of that leaf blower vac and it seized up on me the other day. stupid me didnt check the oil in the 30yr old engine that i got off of craigslist. ive never done a rebuild and this is gonna save me alot of pondering. also saw the other vid on how to remove the fan. thanks for posting these videos.
If you ank your mig welder and turn on the gas you can fill the gas tank with the mig gas and put the cover on and stop all rusting as well.
hey donyboy i have a problem with a honda gx270 8hp that when it is accelerated or decelerate it just kicksback like crazy all over the place out of control what do u think it could be
I have a Sycamore mower we bought new in '66 with the 3.5 hp Briggs Koolbore. Still a 1 or 2 pull start engine. Life depends on the level of care you give it. Sadly, most don't...
Would the sump cover come off easier if you cleaned up the rust on the shaft before you try to pull the cover over the shaft, better on the seal??
yes it would
Ty old man
hi i have a problem the push rods felt i dont know wich one need to put where its it a big problem?
at this point don't worry about it
at either end of the crankshaft, are there bearings or bushings, and, are there oil seals at each end?...thanks...
seals at each end, bushings are part of the block and sump cover
Question my friend....can you put antiseize on a flywheel shaft so the flywheel can be removed more easily?
thank you
Dony I am currently rebuilding a Briggs motor from a mower and one of the bolts on the cap that is on the connecting rod and crankshaft is rounded out, the other bolt came out easily but the other bolt is not and the head is rounded out, how should I get this stubborn bolt out??
good explanation
Online 5hp rebuild kits are cheap for these old Briggs engine's, you can over size the cylinder and get an oversized piston as well, OPTION 2 get a Running IC 5hp engine you can find them all over used and swap the crankshafts 👍
Is there any way to take the piston out if a pully is welded to the crank?
yea take the two bolts out of the connector rod that holds it to the crank shaft like at 3:30 in the video and push the piston out the other way (out through the front of the head) instead of pulling it out the bottom because the crank shaft will be in the way
if you can pull the sump cover out far enough to get to those bolts on the connector rod
How do you control the amount taken off by honing so you match what oversized piston and rings you intend to use? Seems boring the cylinder is the better way to approach any over size.
Man those parts prices are Wicked!!!!
That sure encourages me to keep collecting these engines from the scrap yard!!!
Perhaps I can track you down a used block here :)
How do you know when you need to do a valve job on a flat head valve engine?
You're like the "Eric the car guy" of small engines. Good channel man, subbed!
thanks man!
No prob! I've been tinkering with small engines for years. I know a good mechanic when I see one!
thank you sir
I got a 2 stroke demo/concrete saw with a burnt/scorched piston. Very low compression. It cost $350 for a new cylinder/piston kit. Would it be worth it to have a machine shop bore it out with a new piston?
try also to show how to rebuild a 5.0 robin engine. oil flowing into cylinder head what the problem with that?
Yeah, the best bet is to get a good used engine and just change the crankshaft.. also I have found that when overhauling any briggs engine with an aluminum block it is best to spend a little more and put in chrome rings,, if it has a steel sleeve it is best to use cast iron rings.
Ran into big problem took sump cover off and while removing rod from crank one of the bolts got stripped. Just the head. Vise grips didn't help. Anyone know a good trick to get it off??
wouldn't the air hammer (thats what i call it) damage the crankshaft?
hey dony , i have found a gas station that sells non ethanol gas, but its only 87 octane, i would like to make it 89 or higher, foe my small engines, is their a additive i can buy that will bring up the octane ? i have herd that some octane boosters are pretty much fake.
Hey do you know where I can get a short block for a 8 hp Briggs vertical shaft or should I plan on overhauling the one I have
Where would I find a clutch for this kind of shaft ??? It is oddly shaped what size is it
Colin Bowes on ebay
What is your Opinion on Composite Carbs?
The engine symptoms before strip-down would have been a handy piece of info.
Can you use a piston from a Honda gx 200 into a predator 212cc?
Wow so glad i found this it's so informative thanks donyboy
When I was removing the sump cover on a 3hp B&S, the pushrods fell out so I don't know which is which. Is that a problem?
hello donyboy 73 really enjoy your videos, actually have learned a great deal. thanks!! say would you consider a video and explain the clearance between the piston and cylinder wall ?? thanks jim
Hi there love your videos. Very informative. My question is, a type B1 briggs and Stratton the same as a type E1? I just want to change a broken crank shaft. Thanks
You are a good man Dony
Have you done a video on how you hone or bore your cylinder blocks?
Another great video and wording. I am having issues with 2 mowers that just decided to stop running even after replacing the carbs on both of them. The one briggs does show to have 60 PSI compression. The other mower the fuel was leaking into the crankcase so I thought best to replace the carbs thus ending that nightmare. It ran fine and no more oil was coming out the muffler. I did lift the cover off of the one briggs just to see if the flywheel key was broken, but both the mowers have spark...any words of encouragement is much appreciated.
I HAVE AN 15.5 BRIGGS AND OIL IS GETTING INTO THE[ CARB] SIDE I ADD OIL TO CRACK CASE AND IT ENDS UP IN THE [CARB] HOUSING HOW DO YOU REPAIR OR CAN IT BE REPAIRED. THANKS GARY [DISABLE] VET
wortass2@aol.com
gary bratcher sounds like the head gasket, I do have a full video on that procedure
donyboy73 th-cam.com/video/UaG75e1DhLo/w-d-xo.html
You can get adjustable pullers at any autoparts store or in some cases I make my own
Can you help me find torque specs on an 8hp ic briggs? I cant seem to find them anywhere
Hi Donny. Your videos are excellent! Can I get some advice? Observations: My tiller won't start. I have spark (used a tester). Took off manifold and have black on top of valves with little carbon on piston. Piston moves up/down freely when rotating flywheel or outer engine pulley. No scoring at all when I move piston to the down position. But both intake and exhaust are slightly raised when piston brought to at the highest point of the piston; they are not seated. This is probably why there is no compression - air leaking out. Question: Is there a way to adjust the valves to seat when piston is raised? Or do I need to rebuild something? (I saw your video when you removed the piston -- disassembled the engine).
Sometimes it's not a bad idea to use a little emery paper to polish off the rust on the crank shaft between where the flywheel ends and the crank seal begins. Otherwise, forcing out the crank that way can booger up the bearing surface in the timing cover.
Damn! $400 for a new block??? Canada is crazy expensive.
Love the black gloves, goes along with the whole 'cause of death' thing.
thanks for video I know your along away from me but im on a quest to find some old briggs , cilton are any older motor to restore with my son if you have any leads are anyone you talk with I would thank you for the help
Hey Don, I just want to let you know that people (like me) often refer to your Vids. I have grown in basic small engine repair ability because of Vids like yours. So an accolade from Australia for ya!
Hello I have 5.25 hp briggs and stratton engine. It was runing then after 5 minutes engine shuts off and now piston is not moving . I want to where I can buy the part for this engine please let me know thank you
thanks, greetings from Canada!
My mother buyed a briggs powered mower in 96, he never change oil for nine years until i grow up ad i do it, now i regulary Service it wit 5 40 sint oil, ive cleaned once the carb when it doesnt start, engine is running mint And start at first pull, it doesnt drink oil And i want keep it for life And If dies buy a new engine because is magnesium deck And i love it, its a very strong machine its a dolmar 4546
Royal purple synthetic oil is the best choice my snowblower is still going strong 27 year's old and over 4700 hrs
I have the exact same engine as yours and it was burning oil, so it has like a 0,5mm deep scratch in it.
Do you think it is possible to repair it with one of these Ebay honing tools for your drill?
+Patryk Darasz possibly but sometimes it may enlarge the cylinder too much and it will have low compression and burn oil
+Mike Brink that's right, hardly ever worth rebuilding an engine now
hello sir, I'm repairing b&s 5hp eng mod#1300 I had poor compression 45psi & lapped valves & I put new rings & I honed cylinder & it pops back thru carb & checked timing & lined timing marks but eng is not TDC ? that ok ?? what causes pop?? sound timing off??
thanks
Hey don I have a 1979 mastercraft snowblower with a 5 oMr 4 hp Briggs engine.... It won't start.... The valve clearance is good and it has ok compression ,... I just drained the oil and the was quite a bit of gas in it .... It also has good spark ... If u have any suggestion that would be greatly appreciated thanks a lot
the connecting rods on my Briggs has a metal lip on it I can't remove the fastener with out prying if off. is it ok to pry it off?? or how do I remove it thank you
Hey man I have the same problem did you ever figure it out?
Hey dony I saw you used ur compresor tool to get the fly wheel of do you know where u can get a good quality manuel one
@richardwernst. I have no clue what the sponge is for. My best guess is to stop the fuel from sloshing around to much. But with today's gas, the ethanol ears it up and reaks havoc In the carb. As I said I removed the sponge And the thing runs better now then it did without it.
Thanks for a clearly-detailed video, and for planning all the camera angles well. The audio level was easy to understand, but at the very first, you began speaking in a low-volume and rapidly, so the words slur together. You could provide a screen caption for that part, which would spare you the need to re-record that opening segment. Your concern for quality production values speaks for itself, so I subscribed.
Where do you get parts for Briggs engines?
do u have any sump covers for a 5hp briggs that u dnt want i need one for my briggs build
Lots of good tips in this vid!
Taking a few pictures, is always a really good idea, since they can prove to be better than the best memory!
Great vid Donyboy! :)
Just found an old engine that looks pretty much just like this one at my dump. I think the magneto is dead??? I just don't get any spark.
Take a screen shot of your work! Saves me having to mess with my camera when my hands are dirty!