5hp Briggs & Stratton Engine Teardown & Possible Cause Of Death
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ต.ค. 2024
- 5hp Briggs & Stratton Engine Teardown & Possible Cause Of Death
This is a follow up to this video; • Diagnosis of NON START...
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All your vids are clear, steady and well explained. My preferred tutorials. Thank you.
This is what Briggs & Stratton calls the "Koolbore" engine. No main roller bearings, splash type oil lubrication, and no inner cylinder sleeve. Just aluminum cylinder.
Some people call them junk engines. That's really not the case. I have one on a roto-tiller that my dad had, and now I have it. The way to make these engines last, is to change oil more often than other engines. Make sure it is full of oil before use. These engines do burn oil right from new. Just the nature of the beast! When using these engines, just make sure not to over heat them. Quite easy to happen. Just don't run them at full throttle. Let them cool down after 20-30 minutes of use. Still run mine and it still runs good for an engine made in 1973. One more thing is to pop the head and clean the carbon off the top of the piston. As said in the video.......the carbon severely dammaged the cylinder.
these engine are the best I have them in all my machines the key is to put mystery oil in the gas for upper cylinder lube and to keep the rubber diaphragm in the carb soft
It's amazing how expensive some of those specialized parts can be. The fuel tank you mentioned for $100+ for that roto-tiller cost the same as a new 42-gallon tank for my old Chevy!
Your a rockin mechanic, most shops around me fix stuff with as little effort possible. Iv never seen a mechanic take as much care as you do (unless there workin on thier stuff) Your one of the old breed, keep it up brother
Found this channel a week ago and have been watching everyday so honestly you are small engine LEGEND..
That was a nice trick using the air hammer to remove the flywheel. Thanks for that.
Cool trick for the flywheel! I have usually put on a puller and pried the wheel in different spots.
Donny, thank you so much ! I'm doing my first tear down and rebuild of a 1972 Briggs 3 hp horizontal engine... I know I can do a reverse step by step from this to rebuild... Thank you again so much - Warren 👊😎🙏
Old vid.. but a handy one. I found a big old cement mixer on my property in the woods. It spent at least 20 yrs in the woods. Same engine. Rather than rebuilding tho, I bought (for 50 bucks) a running replacement. BUT... The replacement has a 3/4 smooth shaft... The mixer engine has a 3/4 shaft with teeth for the 6:1 gear reducer. Soooo... I'm simply putting the old crankshaft and crankcase cover, made to accept the reducer box, into the "new to me" engine... Which is super clean and smooth running.
Pretty straightforward with a little patience and research. Including this vid.
can you put the crank in another motor,,
Wow I the cost of a short block in Canada is wildly expensive, yes I agree with you ,the oiler rings tolerance appeared to be to tight that would definitely allow improper excessive blow by, I agree that's why the piston was carboned so badly !I'm rebuilding a 1974 briggs 3.5 hp for a fellow he just wants it built to run, so he can have a running antique engine, I was big time surprised all of the o.e.m. parts are still available even the o.e.m. paint in a rattle can is available i want to thank you , for all of the education you have shared with me, on small engines, I have recently been showing the neighborhood kids 9-14 years old how to do the things I have learned by following your lessons with small engines you have been a wonderful teacher to us, again thank you!
Awesome! You are on my top 3 small engine subscriber videos.
great vid as always. I always remove the annoying sponge from those gas tanks before they become the root of many problems. I still do not know why briggs did that but before I do any carb/fuel-related repair, I always yank that sponge right out of there.
I don't think the damage on the cylinder wall was caused by carbon - it looks like the engine was run out of oil - this damage is consistent with a lack of lubrication.
@@chickenmaster7069 Una vez que se araña asi como ese asi lo limpies( Honing) se PEGA aun arrancando en frio NO VA MAS The END! B&S Scrap!
Excellent video, also isn't there an option to bore the cylinder (send it out) and then go over size on the piston what it takes to get past the scoring? Better than guessing piston sizes with a hone and having it lock up later?
Love the black gloves, goes along with the whole 'cause of death' thing.
thanks dony had gottne the sump cover off and couldnt figure out how to fix the insides and I knew there was some timing marks but thanks to you now I know what to do million thanks
Damn! $400 for a new block??? Canada is crazy expensive.
My Craftsman chipper/shredder has the same 5 hp Briggs as the one in this video only the air cleaner is different. The chipper was actually given to me non running, I guess the guy just bought a new one. The problem it was having is that the carb wasn't pulling fuel up from the tank so I pulled the carb off, thoroughly cleaned it, drained the old gas out of the tank and when I took the fuel pump apart which is on the side of the carb under a removable cover and found that someone put the spring on the wrong side of the diaphragm so it wasn't allowing it to pump fuel which was obviously a simple fix. After I put the carb back on and put fresh gas in, it fired up and runs great.
Great video, hone the cylinder and use the same piston, put in the new rings and that is good enough. Another option is to go with a new engine, 3/4in shaft and add a shaft adapter.
The engine symptoms before strip-down would have been a handy piece of info.
your videos are clear and concise thanks
Man those parts prices are Wicked!!!!
That sure encourages me to keep collecting these engines from the scrap yard!!!
Perhaps I can track you down a used block here :)
I have a Sycamore mower we bought new in '66 with the 3.5 hp Briggs Koolbore. Still a 1 or 2 pull start engine. Life depends on the level of care you give it. Sadly, most don't...
Actually i was told by my instructor at tech that there is difference between honing and boreing! Honing pretty much only refurbishes the cylinder and removes the scratches and boring actually removes metal!
Congratulations for your videos. Clear, good quality, useful.
You're like the "Eric the car guy" of small engines. Good channel man, subbed!
thanks man!
No prob! I've been tinkering with small engines for years. I know a good mechanic when I see one!
good explanation
nice tutorial, did you get to keep the engine for spares?
Sometimes it's not a bad idea to use a little emery paper to polish off the rust on the crank shaft between where the flywheel ends and the crank seal begins. Otherwise, forcing out the crank that way can booger up the bearing surface in the timing cover.
OK, but hammering a rusted crankshaft snout through an aluminum plain bearing is not a good idea. That plain bearing in the cover is now kind of toast. Clean off the rust first with some sandpaper and penetrating oil.
Fantastically made video. It drives me nuts when people ramble on videos, but you keep comments short and relevant. I also like how you show the action and then edit the video so that the next shot quickly skips to the next step. Maybe your next video should be a how to make a how to video!
Dony do you have the equipment /ability to hone a cylinder at your shop. or does it have to be sent out to a machine shop?
Yeah, the best bet is to get a good used engine and just change the crankshaft.. also I have found that when overhauling any briggs engine with an aluminum block it is best to spend a little more and put in chrome rings,, if it has a steel sleeve it is best to use cast iron rings.
If you ank your mig welder and turn on the gas you can fill the gas tank with the mig gas and put the cover on and stop all rusting as well.
Nice to see most of the covers, tank etc, is made of metal.
Doing my first complete rebuild of flathead engine 158ccbriggs. What's best way to shine crankcase up any cleaner or just a good wipe down?
You are a good man Dony
doublecheck that one bolt is still not on, sometimes i use a chisel very carefully
Online 5hp rebuild kits are cheap for these old Briggs engine's, you can over size the cylinder and get an oversized piston as well, OPTION 2 get a Running IC 5hp engine you can find them all over used and swap the crankshafts 👍
thank you
Hey donny, when i remove the crankcase cover, i clean the rust off the shaft with crocus cloth. It slides right off then.
this vid is gonna help me out a ton. i have an older model of that leaf blower vac and it seized up on me the other day. stupid me didnt check the oil in the 30yr old engine that i got off of craigslist. ive never done a rebuild and this is gonna save me alot of pondering. also saw the other vid on how to remove the fan. thanks for posting these videos.
Nice video Dony. Your disassembly was very instructive and showing and explaining carbon build up helpful. I have older 5hp that I'd like to get manual for from B&S site to replace/repair recoil that does not retract well but darned if I can locate any data plate. Any ideas where to look? Thanks.
Question my friend....can you put antiseize on a flywheel shaft so the flywheel can be removed more easily?
Solutions to needing a 7/8" diameter output shaft. Make a steel sleeve to fit over a 3/4" output shaft engine. Use the existing 7/8" shaft and end housing on a new engine.
"So you may wanna tap the shaft" *BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG*
You can get adjustable pullers at any autoparts store or in some cases I make my own
Hello Donyboy! last week I removed the crank shaft from a 5hp Briggs and both push rods fell out at the same time. What can be done to tell which one goes where.
Dony I am currently rebuilding a Briggs motor from a mower and one of the bolts on the cap that is on the connecting rod and crankshaft is rounded out, the other bolt came out easily but the other bolt is not and the head is rounded out, how should I get this stubborn bolt out??
Would the sump cover come off easier if you cleaned up the rust on the shaft before you try to pull the cover over the shaft, better on the seal??
yes it would
Ty old man
thanks
Hi there love your videos. Very informative. My question is, a type B1 briggs and Stratton the same as a type E1? I just want to change a broken crank shaft. Thanks
wouldn't the air hammer (thats what i call it) damage the crankshaft?
Nice teardown video
i'm not working on the space shuttle
G'day Don, I was just wondering. After the tear-down, were you able to go ahead, & rebuild this 5hp Briggs & Stratton Engine?
I have the same engine. I'm using a screw in muffler but it rattles off because its on a go kart. The holes for the muffler have to broken bolts in the, it looks like someone tried to drill into it and use an extractor but failed. How hard would it be to get those out or if its even possible.
i can do some, there is a machine shop here that does a good job
How do you control the amount taken off by honing so you match what oversized piston and rings you intend to use? Seems boring the cylinder is the better way to approach any over size.
What if there is only one dot on your camshaft and not on the crankshaft and when you pulled out the camshaft both of the pushrods fell out at the same time how do you know which one is which.
thank you sir
have a good weekend
Cheers for the video! What happens if you mix up the pushrods, does it cause damage? And how would you know which is meant to go where if you happened to mix them up?
Hi Donny. Your videos are excellent! Can I get some advice? Observations: My tiller won't start. I have spark (used a tester). Took off manifold and have black on top of valves with little carbon on piston. Piston moves up/down freely when rotating flywheel or outer engine pulley. No scoring at all when I move piston to the down position. But both intake and exhaust are slightly raised when piston brought to at the highest point of the piston; they are not seated. This is probably why there is no compression - air leaking out. Question: Is there a way to adjust the valves to seat when piston is raised? Or do I need to rebuild something? (I saw your video when you removed the piston -- disassembled the engine).
Wow so glad i found this it's so informative thanks donyboy
Hey do you know where I can get a short block for a 8 hp Briggs vertical shaft or should I plan on overhauling the one I have
Good work, Dony.
Thanks for video
Take a screen shot of your work! Saves me having to mess with my camera when my hands are dirty!
@richardwernst. I have no clue what the sponge is for. My best guess is to stop the fuel from sloshing around to much. But with today's gas, the ethanol ears it up and reaks havoc In the carb. As I said I removed the sponge And the thing runs better now then it did without it.
Nice video.. you made it look so easy! I
Thanks for a clearly-detailed video, and for planning all the camera angles well. The audio level was easy to understand, but at the very first, you began speaking in a low-volume and rapidly, so the words slur together. You could provide a screen caption for that part, which would spare you the need to re-record that opening segment. Your concern for quality production values speaks for itself, so I subscribed.
Dear, I have 2800watt kohler generator but my genrator not give me proper efficiency what i do ?
try also to show how to rebuild a 5.0 robin engine. oil flowing into cylinder head what the problem with that?
Hi, I have very similar B&S 5HP engine. And I dot't know if it's normal that it has 0,3mm axial loose on the crankshaft and if I set the exhaust valve open so it has slight radial loose. Is it ok?
I can now understand why it cost so much for an engine now. For the price of that block alone, I could buy another good used tiller, or mower.
sorry to bother you again but i have tried to remove the crankcase from a briggs and stratton 35 classic and it will only come off around 1/4 inch and will not move any futher i have tried pullers hammer air hammers you name it and it will still not come off is there something else holding the crankcase to the engine or is it just locked to the shaft?
Thanks again
I got a 2 stroke demo/concrete saw with a burnt/scorched piston. Very low compression. It cost $350 for a new cylinder/piston kit. Would it be worth it to have a machine shop bore it out with a new piston?
The best octane booster I use on my lawnmower and snowblower was from lucas oil, it actually works to a degree, I got a 12 pack online for like $80, and one bottle will last you quite a long time, you use two ounces of it in one gallon, and each bottle is 15 ounces, I suggest you check it out
hi donny,i want to respray a engine which paint you recommend,also primer,any for under deck? thanks
Nice gloves you are wearing. What are those made of?
Are they confortable? Are they sensitive?
Thanks ...what size shaft thought
Dony. Gday again from Boo in Perth Australia. I am so absorbed watching your vids.I have no idea right now on most of the great stuff you show, but it's fascinating for me.Here's my silly question. What are those gloves you wear.Are they long lasting or do they just look that way.Let me know please as I haven't found a good hard-wearing glove in Australia. Also, any chance you can make a simple vid about how a simple engine works. ie spark piston valve crank etc. i am 51 and learning finally.ty
Hello I have 5.25 hp briggs and stratton engine. It was runing then after 5 minutes engine shuts off and now piston is not moving . I want to where I can buy the part for this engine please let me know thank you
hey donyboy i have a problem with a honda gx270 8hp that when it is accelerated or decelerate it just kicksback like crazy all over the place out of control what do u think it could be
next time take some emry tape to the crank shaft to remove the rust build you will find they come apart nicer
My mother buyed a briggs powered mower in 96, he never change oil for nine years until i grow up ad i do it, now i regulary Service it wit 5 40 sint oil, ive cleaned once the carb when it doesnt start, engine is running mint And start at first pull, it doesnt drink oil And i want keep it for life And If dies buy a new engine because is magnesium deck And i love it, its a very strong machine its a dolmar 4546
Just a small suggestion. If the crank won't pass the case without a flaying from a hammer, you need to dress the rust off the shaft first or the bearing surface inside the case behind the seal will become damaged and wear prematurely.
Smashing tutorial :-)
Its allways handy to know whats in a particular engine before the average user strips it down, and i know more about this engine than i did :-)
If i was the customer and you returned the engine to a "usable state" i would be happy as arry :-) , it dont have to be like a new one to be usable does it ?
Your tutorials are allways enjoyable dony :-)
thanks for video I know your along away from me but im on a quest to find some old briggs , cilton are any older motor to restore with my son if you have any leads are anyone you talk with I would thank you for the help
hello donyboy 73 really enjoy your videos, actually have learned a great deal. thanks!! say would you consider a video and explain the clearance between the piston and cylinder wall ?? thanks jim
Royal purple synthetic oil is the best choice my snowblower is still going strong 27 year's old and over 4700 hrs
hey dony , i have found a gas station that sells non ethanol gas, but its only 87 octane, i would like to make it 89 or higher, foe my small engines, is their a additive i can buy that will bring up the octane ? i have herd that some octane boosters are pretty much fake.
Good job donny
Have you done a video on how you hone or bore your cylinder blocks?
thanks, greetings from Canada!
Lots of good tips in this vid!
Taking a few pictures, is always a really good idea, since they can prove to be better than the best memory!
Great vid Donyboy! :)
could make the valve lash different from before teardown, when I take it apart I mark them
Another great video and wording. I am having issues with 2 mowers that just decided to stop running even after replacing the carbs on both of them. The one briggs does show to have 60 PSI compression. The other mower the fuel was leaking into the crankcase so I thought best to replace the carbs thus ending that nightmare. It ran fine and no more oil was coming out the muffler. I did lift the cover off of the one briggs just to see if the flywheel key was broken, but both the mowers have spark...any words of encouragement is much appreciated.
I HAVE AN 15.5 BRIGGS AND OIL IS GETTING INTO THE[ CARB] SIDE I ADD OIL TO CRACK CASE AND IT ENDS UP IN THE [CARB] HOUSING HOW DO YOU REPAIR OR CAN IT BE REPAIRED. THANKS GARY [DISABLE] VET
wortass2@aol.com
gary bratcher sounds like the head gasket, I do have a full video on that procedure
donyboy73 th-cam.com/video/UaG75e1DhLo/w-d-xo.html