I'm messing with a design for a bolt-on all stainless steel pod on a 21 foot I/O Bayliner. It's already a bit stern-heavy and hanging a few hundred pounds 18" off the back won't help. A pod would carry the outboard and give more planing surface.
Great vid. I think you answered my question. My understanding was that fibreglass placed athwortship must be layed from stern to bow, for hydrostatic pressure reasons. Then how do I then add a live bait tank or pod? Well itt seems you have glassed the pod internally from base of the transom using a mould, then layed in your core, then final glass, avoiding any glass laps on the hull bottom plates. Is that what you did, video speed was quite quick hard to be sure.
Dude fuck the shit talkers in the comments. Note none of them have any videos at or or any worth a shit but yet they have so much to say about a video. Great build! Great glass work too!
Thank you for the video. Good info. One question though, maybe the high speed in which you work LOL but I can't identify the board product that you so effortlessly bend into the hull shape. I assume this is a fiberglass-faced board of some sort?
I think melamine laminated MDF plates to make the form / mold. Then just lay up fiberglass. Smart way to build this since you get a good finish "out of the box".
I didn't see where you tied the engine bracket into the existing chassis. I was under the impression that a bracket needed to be incorporated into the existing boat in order to take the forces of the engine on the component. It appears that you scabbed the new bracket onto the gelcoat/fiberglass of the existing boat. How long is your work guaranteed?
@@Ronnykoot I'm thinking it should have been tabbed into the original transom more than it was. The outer surface of transom needs to be stripped to bare glass then tabbed 150-200mm up from bottom and in from sides. I understand you've tied stringers through transom to take downwards bending moment from motor/s, but the outer skin you've built should also be properly glassed/tabbed into the original hull.
Great work and great video, however i know it aint that easy from experience,ha. Do you think it would be a bad idea putting a 150 hp on a 15 foot runabout BR if i make some glassed flotation pods? boat has been fully restored.
That helps a lot, thank you Robert. In this instance I have an existing rebuilt transom that I would like to add a pod to, therefore it's not possible to run stringers through the transom. Would you recommend gussets over making the pod separate to the hull and bolting it on?
James Oli, if you can access your hull stringers, then there's nothing wrong with cutting a home in your transom to slide the stringers through as it is better to have a cantilever effect. doing this though means you have to sacrifice some of your floor, and if that's not an option, then gussets are fine, the more surface area the better
Excellent work. Will you please tell us if you used Kevlar or what oz glass ?. I have built many of these in a production of full planing catamarans over 20 years ago and we used woving. I just do not remember what oz the roving/ woving was.
Great work. Looks like about 30 in extention. Could you extend 50 inches and integrate a swim platform? if so would hanging twin 300s that far back hurt the performance of the boat?
@@mrmidnight32 if you cant see the difference between through bolting a armstrong bracket to a old transom designed to hold weight differently and a hull extension and the benefit of having this done then this is probably something thats not for you
it was build nice and all but... why would some one want to build such a monstrosity on their boat, meaning its adding weight to the stern as you are pushing the engine out further
Hi Robert. Thanks for this video. Just what I was looking for. I see you mentioned in another comment that you used 16mm melamine with relief cuts to make the mold. Is that just regular old melamine? Doesn't the particle board break up when you bend it? Or does it not matter because you're really only using/relying on the melamine surface?
@@Ronnykoot sorry last question (i've got a million but i'm trying to be civilised). Are there quite a lot of relief cuts on the underside? I think I saw a pic of another one of your pod hull extensions and there was what looked like melamine with cuts every 10 or so centimetres. Does that sound right?
@@johnjohnpacepace around the keel they are about 20mm from memory, as you move away from the curved surface you can increase the distance between the cuts
Hi, thanks for the video. Just wondering I can't see you bolt or secure it to the transom other than glass on the inside and edges. Did you glass it through the transom hole? If you were doing the same extension without the stern drive removal would you then bolt it on? For example going from an outboard on a transom to an outboard on a pod. Any help be great
James Oli, the stringers run from the pod into the old engine bay. the pod is fully glassed to the transom from the inside of the pod. If it wasn't a stern drive prior, I would if possible run stringers into the existing boat, if that wasn't possible I'd have lots of knees and gussets glassed to the transom. hope this answers your questions
So what is this supposed to do? You have covered up the out drive so house does the boat move now?🤔 great ideas for my boat to build a swim platform but OMG ears bleeding from the thrash metal guys 😫
Nice mod, gets rid of that BLEEPING inboard engine (personal dislike). I think that some of my dislikes was the process of the build. Plus, it didn't show any support from the pod to the transom. By this I mean tying the pod to the transom via steel rods &/or bolting the pod to the transom directly.
I have to ask why you didn't make the pod the entire width of the boat? Check out my build the boat I did I call the anti pod. Engine is in from the pod. Gives bouncy to the back of the boat and make it more stable. putting pods on like in this video doesn't make sense in my opinion
If yoy didn't learn anything you're blind and shouldn't be watching youtube or trolling people who are actually putting decent content out. You. Probably bought the fish in your profile pic hahahahahha😂
That is a serious amount of work!
Great build. You gave me inspiration for my current Bertram 25 project. I'm doing a full width one. I'm starting layup within about a week.
Good video. It showed me just what I needed to do . Thank you !
Excellent vid, I have forwarded this to a friend other side of the world for him to learn from. As a boat builder myself, this is how to do it.
Now can you imagine drilling holes to mount the Outboards and trying to get to the bolts inside?
I'm really surprised about only two stringers. I have no idea but I would of thought of needing alot more. Fibreglass must be strong stuff
great craftsmanship.it would
be nice if you could slow it down and
narrate the video
I'm messing with a design for a bolt-on all stainless steel pod on a 21 foot I/O Bayliner. It's already a bit stern-heavy and hanging a few hundred pounds 18" off the back won't help. A pod would carry the outboard and give more planing surface.
Hunter boats, you are amazing...
Great vid. I think you answered my question.
My understanding was that fibreglass placed athwortship must be layed from stern to bow, for hydrostatic pressure reasons.
Then how do I then add a live bait tank or pod? Well itt seems you have glassed the pod internally from base of the transom using a mould, then layed in your core, then final glass, avoiding any glass laps on the hull bottom plates.
Is that what you did, video speed was quite quick hard to be sure.
Great vid thanks for sharing
Very nice work.
Thank you , good job
Just wondering how it held up .I think I would have encased a stainless steel frame in fiberglass if your putting some motors on it.
That looks really nice
Hey mate, great video, sick music too.. what do you use when it comes to fairing?
Dude fuck the shit talkers in the comments. Note none of them have any videos at or or any worth a shit but yet they have so much to say about a video.
Great build! Great glass work too!
is this held on 100% by the glass bond to the hull? or were there some through bolts?
No bolts, only glass
awesome work, just what i was looking for ! ever done a bertram 25?
No, but that's on the pipeline for next yr
Would this dd to much Bouyancy?
How much did it affect the buoyancy if it did?
Thank you for the video. Good info. One question though, maybe the high speed in which you work LOL but I can't identify the board product that you so effortlessly bend into the hull shape. I assume this is a fiberglass-faced board of some sort?
fishhuntadventure, hi the product I used for the mould was just 16 mm gloss melamine. relief cuts in the underside to conform to the round keel
Robert Hunter do you need to prep the surface of the board before applying the glass to it? Do you apply the Geo coat prior to laying in the glass?
Who does the music? It rocks!
Art verses Science .... Australian band.
It's intense and I love it... I watch this video,to build a pod like this ,this guy works like the tasmanian devil.I wish I could work like Robert...
dang why is this guy not doing how tos. thats awesome
Hi... Fantastic....
What kind of material did you use to make the shape of the hull?
Have you used a released product?
Sorry for my English..
I think melamine laminated MDF plates to make the form / mold. Then just lay up fiberglass. Smart way to build this since you get a good finish "out of the box".
How many Layers of fiberglass did you use?
Well done.
I didn't see where you tied the engine bracket into the existing chassis. I was under the impression that a bracket needed to be incorporated into the existing boat in order to take the forces of the engine on the component. It appears that you scabbed the new bracket onto the gelcoat/fiberglass of the existing boat. How long is your work guaranteed?
900mm of stringer goes into the original boat, so there is no issue of it breaking off
@@Ronnykoot I'm thinking it should have been tabbed into the original transom more than it was. The outer surface of transom needs to be stripped to bare glass then tabbed 150-200mm up from bottom and in from sides. I understand you've tied stringers through transom to take downwards bending moment from motor/s, but the outer skin you've built should also be properly glassed/tabbed into the original hull.
Great work and great video, however i know it aint that easy from experience,ha. Do you think it would be a bad idea putting a 150 hp on a 15 foot runabout BR if i make some glassed flotation pods? boat has been fully restored.
Anything is possible....
I have a 115 on a 16 footer and it's fast :)
That sounds really excessive. I got 140 on an 18 footer and it’s too heavy at the back and overpowered
That helps a lot, thank you Robert. In this instance I have an existing rebuilt transom that I would like to add a pod to, therefore it's not possible to run stringers through the transom. Would you recommend gussets over making the pod separate to the hull and bolting it on?
James Oli, if you can access your hull stringers, then there's nothing wrong with cutting a home in your transom to slide the stringers through as it is better to have a cantilever effect. doing this though means you have to sacrifice some of your floor, and if that's not an option, then gussets are fine, the more surface area the better
Nice
Excellent work. Will you please tell us if you used Kevlar or what oz glass ?. I have built many of these in a production of full planing catamarans over 20 years ago and we used woving. I just do not remember what oz the roving/ woving was.
We used 450gm double bias
Great work. Looks like about 30 in extention. Could you extend 50 inches and integrate a swim platform? if so would hanging twin 300s that far back hurt the performance of the boat?
Ron Chamberlain, you would probably have to make the pod full width to provide maximum buoyancy for the additional weight
Great build. What is the apox. cost to add this bracket I’m due for a Repower and would love to go outboard
That looks like a lot of expensive work. Is it worth it?
What boat can ya buy like that that doesn't have an inboard motor?
sim dogg what's wrong an inboard motor?
Im not a fan at all. Weighs to much. Heaps more maintenance. Takes up deck space
I replied to the wrong person with my first comment. Was aiming my response at the guy that said just buy the right boat
@@simdogg8412 Inboards are less maintenance
How much does something like this cost to have done?
Travis Horner 4 to 8 k depending on design, materials and finish
Travis Horner just look at a Armstrong bracket from a local dealer. Shouldn’t be any more than $3k installed.
@@mrmidnight32 if you cant see the difference between through bolting a armstrong bracket to a old transom designed to hold weight differently and a hull extension and the benefit of having this done then this is probably something thats not for you
Another boat conversionm inboard to outboard 900hp yamaha th-cam.com/video/tWSUDHmYK9E/w-d-xo.html
It felt like a city tour in Rome ... at 100mph.
Whats the boat bud? Love it
24 ft huntsman
2.55 sanding without a respirator...are you nuts!
Could you do this for twin engines and what would be the max horsepower for about the same size boat
Twins could work. Depending how strong it's made, you could put twin 300's
it was build nice and all but... why would some one want to build such a monstrosity on their boat, meaning its adding weight to the stern as you are pushing the engine out further
Hi Robert. Thanks for this video. Just what I was looking for. I see you mentioned in another comment that you used 16mm melamine with relief cuts to make the mold. Is that just regular old melamine? Doesn't the particle board break up when you bend it? Or does it not matter because you're really only using/relying on the melamine surface?
Hey mate, it's mdf melamine. Chipboard won't work very well. And the melamine was a bit thicker than usual, I got it from a kitchen manufacturer
@@Ronnykoot ha, i'm glad i asked. thanks heaps. i've been watching this video frame by frame trying to get a plan together :-)
@@Ronnykoot sorry last question (i've got a million but i'm trying to be civilised). Are there quite a lot of relief cuts on the underside? I think I saw a pic of another one of your pod hull extensions and there was what looked like melamine with cuts every 10 or so centimetres. Does that sound right?
@@johnjohnpacepace around the keel they are about 20mm from memory, as you move away from the curved surface you can increase the distance between the cuts
Robert thanks for sharing.I have a22'Grady White project boat,rotted wood ,3pc I will build a pod like yours.
Hi, thanks for the video. Just wondering I can't see you bolt or secure it to the transom other than glass on the inside and edges. Did you glass it through the transom hole? If you were doing the same extension without the stern drive removal would you then bolt it on? For example going from an outboard on a transom to an outboard on a pod. Any help be great
James Oli, the stringers run from the pod into the old engine bay. the pod is fully glassed to the transom from the inside of the pod. If it wasn't a stern drive prior, I would if possible run stringers into the existing boat, if that wasn't possible I'd have lots of knees and gussets glassed to the transom. hope this answers your questions
So what is this supposed to do? You have covered up the out drive so house does the boat move now?🤔 great ideas for my boat to build a swim platform but OMG ears bleeding from the thrash metal guys 😫
It's a pod designed to take an outboard motor.
Thank GOD for the mute button...other than the hideous music was a great video...
I dont think thats will hold long,,not the proper way..😅
Been on there 6 years so far. You sure proved me wrong. I prefer stories with more dragons.
Nice mod, gets rid of that BLEEPING inboard engine (personal dislike). I think that some of my dislikes was the process of the build. Plus, it didn't show any support from the pod to the transom. By this I mean tying the pod to the transom via steel rods &/or bolting the pod to the transom directly.
Well....
Now I understand why these cost thousands of dollars....
Did I see MDF?
Yeah, as a mould
I have to ask why you didn't make the pod the entire width of the boat? Check out my build the boat I did I call the anti pod. Engine is in from the pod. Gives bouncy to the back of the boat and make it more stable. putting pods on like in this video doesn't make sense in my opinion
That's what the customer wanted.
@@Ronnykoot he posts this same comment on other videos
Maybe there going to run trim tabs and noone asked for your opinion
“I call the anti pod” what a d/ckhead. Oi bright spark you didn’t create it there are millions around.
Why does a boat building video require pounding music? Thank God I can mute you!
HUH 😵
Ply is shit ! Use Coosa or an equivalent FFS !
Wow I just watched a video with no information what so ever. It's actually pointless
Marty Priest lmao like your shit videos are any better?
At least it’s not in vertical 😂
If yoy didn't learn anything you're blind and shouldn't be watching youtube or trolling people who are actually putting decent content out. You. Probably bought the fish in your profile pic hahahahahha😂
Way to much work ,just go buy the right boat
Someone who might be able to spend 4 grand on that job might not be able to spend 60-80 grand on the "right boat".
Waste of video space, total waste of time. Not to mention the music sucked
loved the music actually..can you tell me the band....nice job Btw .thinking of doing the same on an aluminum boat with toasted inboard
Well I muted the music and learned a bit from watching the video and more from reading Robert's comments. Good job on that bracket.
Rito “Skip” lol