Building My Garden Office: Part 10 - Walls, Filling, and Sanding
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- This is part ten of my year-long series where I go through how I design and build my own garden office for the purposes of operating and running my home-based web design and web development business (Made with Fuel).
In this video, I add the plywood walls, cut out the holes for the electrical and networking boxes, and fill and sand everything ready for painting.
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As always, I hope you enjoy the video.
Well done, wait to see the next episodes. You gave me nice ideas for my office garden. Watching you from Romania 🇷🇴
Fantastic I may follow the ply method, if I attempted to plaster would look bad and don't want to pay or learn to plaster either, looks great, nice job
Welcome back. Hopefully the office will be completed this year.
trungdiep92 it will!
Been waiting for this, will watch later with a beverage or 2 ;)
An absolutely excellent set of videos of your garden room build, Jack! Can I ask where you purchased the timber, hardwood ply, those insulation panels, vape barrier and the house-wrap from? Apologies if you've already been asked in the comments! Cheers Jack! Paul.
Thanks, Paul! I bought all of the timber from Selco. Everything else was bought from various places online - wherever supplied them cheapest and ideally, offered free postage when you spent over a certain amount.
Great videos Jack, really useful to see how you've progressed and got on. I'm really tempted to go down the plywood route as well. Is there not an issue with piercing the vapour barrier with all the backboxes? Thanks
My vapour barrier has a bit of “give” where the insulation doesn’t sit flush against it. Anywhere I pulled a cable through I taped up. For the most part, it’s fine. I feel it’s nearly impossible to get it 100% sealed but the important thing is that you have something.
Hi Jack, I’ve been eagerly following your build. When can we expect the next instalment? Also what are the internal & external dimensions?
Alan Edwards thanks Alan! External dimensions are 3x2.5 metres. Internal this is a bit less. Next video is underway.
Hello mate, I've just come across your video's, it's nice to see how someone else is doing their build. I was going to use plywood but I've now gone down the moisture resistant plaster board route as a hot tub is going in my Man Shed. Mines a little bigger than yours though at 16ft x 11ft I notice that you have not got any lighting in there what are you going to do for lighting??
David Hargrave I’ve added two lights to the back walls. They’re on movable arms so I can point them and angle them. They have LIFX bulbs in too so they’re good fun 😊
Jack, great video series watches it all as you were doing it. Out of interest, a few months down the line how did the joins in the ply hold out after any expansion and contraction with any temperature difference? Have they cracked at all?
Chris Thomas Thanks! They have indeed. It wasn’t too bad though. A few weeks ago I patched them with some flexible sealant and a fresh coat of paint. Looking good again.
Jack McConnell thanks! That’s what I’m concerned about if you skim it out too, so you’ve saved yourself the cost. Hopefully the flexible sealant will work for you. Cheers for the quick and honest reply. Look forward to any more videos on it.
0:31 hi, i'm doing a build like yours, did you use pir insulation & foil tape, and then use plastic sheet over that aswell?
Yes I did.
Hi Jack. I’m going to try the ply wall option too instead of plaster. But the wood filling of screws and joints was tiresome even at fast speed playback ;-) Did you look into whether any strong adhesives could’ve been used instead of screws? I guess ceiling absolutely need screws but perhaps walls could be glued?
Cool! I didn’t. I wouldn’t risk it to be honest. If you’re screwing into it to say, put up a shelf, you don’t want to pry the wall away from the timber frame by accident. Screws are ideal I think.
Yep I’m inclined to agree. Just really don’t fancy all that filling and sanding but think it will be marginally less painful than tape and jointing plaster! Plus ply is just structurally more sound if not a bit dearer .
@@AccountantDoesDIY It’s worth it. The better job you do, the less sanding required. Plus, fixing anything to it is great. Wish my whole house had it instead of plasterboard!
@@jackrmcconnell Hi Jack, a bit of a blast from the past, but I've now reached the ceiling/internal walls stage of my build. I've decided to go plasterboard for ceiling (mainly due to cost and the fact I don't plan to be hanging anything much from it, if anything. However, for walls I will use ply. Can I ask, what width ply did you opt for? I've used hardwood 18mm ply for my floor and have been very impressed with it. But perhaps too thick for the walls? I'm using my room as a gym so will be hanging some relatively heavy thinsg on the wall, e.g. a 27kg hex bar, a 20kg barbell, etc. So maybe 18mm would in fact be better? 9mm was the other option, just not sure whether structurally strong enough. Any thoughts appreciiated mate!
@@AccountantDoesDIY Congrats on your build, that’s great! I used 12mm hardwood plywood for mine. If I was hanging anything really heavy off of it, I’d screw into the studs behind where possible.
Looking great but I have to say if I had been building this we would have been mourning the tortoise from day one! How did you not step on the poor thing?
mike travis Lol. It’s been hard but he’s fine. Enjoying the re-vamped garden!
Is your roof flat or slanted to the back? Also, what height is your roof please?
It’s slanted at the back, yes. I went up to the maximum height for the front of my roof, which is 2.5 metres in the UK.
@@jackrmcconnell Many thanks for that. What height is it at the back please?
@@Twigster1 honestly never measured it but it’s probably between 6 and 10 inches lower. It depends on the slant of the roof and that depends on the roof size.
Maybe I missed it in the video but what was the reason for using plywood instead of plasterboard and getting it skimmed. Looked like lots of extra work cutting the plywood out for the back box of the sockets as well as all the filling and sanding.
MCEpicPVP you’re right, I didn’t cover that in the video. Two reasons really: 1. Hanging anything from the walls is much more sturdy and it all feels more solid and 2. I could do it all myself and wouldn’t have to learn how to plaster or spend more to get someone else to do it.
@@jackrmcconnell Yes "Dry Trades" are the way to go, obviously at a pinch plaster boarding taping the joints and then painting would also have saved having Walls Skimmed...but boarding and screwing those walls adds structural strength to the whole envelope and combats racking forces of the elements, coupled with less flexing long term which always leads to air leakages.
Why didn't you use plasterboard and plaster it?Great amount of effort by the way.How much did it all cost as I need to go the same route really.
Nick Wilkinson Plasterboard, materials, and a plasterer would have been more expensive. The plywood walls are excellent for fixing anything too. Cost was just over £4K.
Thank you
How much was the electrician please?
Nick Wilkinson it was done in a few phases. I can’t remember the amounts unfortunately.
Great build, how long did it take to build
Peter Hughes Thabks! About 7-months in the end.
@@jackrmcconnell A bugger to keep dry in the rain
Can I ask is it a total flat roof or a slight slant ?
Chris Martin It has a slant from front to back. I forget the exact gradient but there are calculators online for the angles needed as per the size of roof. A single 2x4 was all that was needed on the top of the front wall to provide the angle I needed.
When should we expect the next part ?
Kishan Mistry soon! Am editing it now.
@@jackrmcconnell I'm really excited, keep up the good work !