I was out at The Con early 80's it was shoulder to about 2' over head around the river mouth I pulled into the real nice long barrel and as I'm in there I see this guy just stopped paddling and put his hands on the front of his board with this real big smile and just watching it was Shaun -- paddled back out he smiled and nodded at me, made my day. The guy always put out good/great vibes not like some pro's...
Short board pioneers like him figured out how to do what surfers today take for granted as common knowledge. To do all that without someone telling him to ride or learning by seeing waves being ridden that way shows how smart and brave he was. No you tube videos. Just guts, brains and creativity.
I thank God I grew up in this era too, before slashing and tricks was the way, when Surfers were Artists drawing lines and flowing with the Ocean, not trying to kill it. Nothing is better than carving lines except those moments in the tube. Today's surfers, have fun. But when you see the STYLE of an artist on a wave, like my beloved Jericho did too in her day, it cannot be beat by aerials.
Not sure what year (late 80's or early 90's) I was returning from the Hollister Ranch just before dark with a buddy (by car) and we were driving by Razor Blades (Winter, Massive swell) and there were quite a few boats anchored-up and a number of guys in the water still catching these double overhead rights; one stood out though. Shaun was tearing the wave apart and it wasn't until later that night at the Chart house in Santa Barbara (now closed), we found out the name of the bloke that "owned Razors". He got a bit of a bad rep at Rincon for being a snake, but I tip my hat to this bloke from SA ! Great memories; I still think of you that night ripping Razors. Cheers, mate. Liked, subscribed Funniest part ? Dan Merkel lived in a tiny house just down from the Cliffhouse where I used to live in the 70's. Your commentary in the lighthouse episode (West of the West) is brilliant.
Fluid and graceful, yet powerful...he was my favorite surfer of that era!! Saw him win the Pipeline Masters on "The Wide World of Sports". Good Greif, I'm getting OLD. wait..I AM old,...
I’ll never forget the famous photo of a huge curling lip touching his head, and Shawn smiling like it was all planned. Been looking for that photo and cannot seem to find it, but what a memory.
The way he delivered that last line at the end seems so candidly heartfelt. He's always been among the most stylish and distinctive surfers ever. Back in 70s and 80s you could easily identify the top guys by style alone. I dare you to do that today with the compulsive slash and burn approach which is more rape than love making and seems more geared to win points in competition than to have fun, which surfing is really all about in the first place.
He was the hero from my day The first hints of modern day surfing. Larry Bertleman, Buttons These were yhe guys that inspired the Z-boyz and Dogtown crew and everyone else im sure. J-bay was the wave we drew on our brown, paper wrapped school books.
0:10 Thomson may have ridden J bay better than anyone else before but definitely not since. These days a 14 year old on a modern board could outperform whatThomson did back then, and the kid would just be an average grom.
Back in the late 90's my wife, a casting director and I had the opportunity to meet him and spend some time with him in Hawaii while making the film In God's Hand...of course we were both veteran surfers my wife and I so it was great to know we were not just guests at the party..
He complimented me on a wave I caught at Rincon one day. Made my day!
I was out at The Con early 80's it was shoulder to about 2' over head around the river mouth I pulled into the real nice long barrel and as I'm in there I see this guy just stopped paddling and put his hands on the front of his board with this real big smile and just watching it was Shaun -- paddled back out he smiled and nodded at me, made my day. The guy always put out good/great vibes not like some pro's...
Someone beat me to my comment. The legend of Shaun Thompson! My surfing hero since I started surfing in 1974 at 11 years old.
One of my childhood heroes. Saw him surf my home break El Captain in 85. Truly epic.
Shaun Tomson is one of the very very best!
Short board pioneers like him figured out how to do what surfers today take for granted as common knowledge. To do all that without someone telling him to ride or learning by seeing waves being ridden that way shows how smart and brave he was. No you tube videos. Just guts, brains and creativity.
I thank God I grew up in this era too, before slashing and tricks was the way, when Surfers were Artists drawing lines and flowing with the Ocean, not trying to kill it. Nothing is better than carving lines except those moments in the tube. Today's surfers, have fun. But when you see the STYLE of an artist on a wave, like my beloved Jericho did too in her day, it cannot be beat by aerials.
That’s because the equipment wouldn’t allow it. If it did,Shawn would be ripping it top to bottom
But agree , I’d like the flow style much better
Not sure what year (late 80's or early 90's) I was returning from the Hollister Ranch just before dark with a buddy (by car) and we were driving by Razor Blades (Winter, Massive swell) and there were quite a few boats anchored-up and a number of guys in the water still catching these double overhead rights; one stood out though. Shaun was tearing the wave apart and it wasn't until later that night at the Chart house in Santa Barbara (now closed), we found out the name of the bloke that "owned Razors".
He got a bit of a bad rep at Rincon for being a snake, but I tip my hat to this bloke from SA !
Great memories; I still think of you that night ripping Razors. Cheers, mate.
Liked, subscribed
Funniest part ? Dan Merkel lived in a tiny house just down from the Cliffhouse where I used to live in the 70's. Your commentary in the lighthouse episode (West of the West) is brilliant.
My favorite era, 70s and 80s, for short board surfing.
Fluid and graceful, yet powerful...he was my favorite surfer of that era!! Saw him win the Pipeline Masters on "The Wide World of Sports". Good Greif, I'm getting OLD. wait..I AM old,...
Tomson -- the way the guy charged the North Shore was beyond epic, no fear, head down and ruthless.
He was my favorite. I picked up his style in my surfing days. 70s.
How great was the man’s style .👍
Muchas gracias por todo Shaun Thompson
I’ll never forget the famous photo of a huge curling lip touching his head, and Shawn smiling like it was all planned. Been looking for that photo and cannot seem to find it, but what a memory.
I remember that well, the winter of '78 my life changed forever
So much swag when he pulled in to that first barrel. Nice big carves.👌
Always one of the best
The way he delivered that last line at the end seems so candidly heartfelt. He's always been among the most stylish and distinctive surfers ever. Back in 70s and 80s you could easily identify the top guys by style alone. I dare you to do that today with the compulsive slash and burn approach which is more rape than love making and seems more geared to win points in competition than to have fun, which surfing is really all about in the first place.
STYLE MASTER at work
Hey Shaun, do you remember a little blonde gal, named Marla Swanson back in the early 80’s? Garden Grove, California?
I love Shaun, he is a legit guy. But Curren surfed J Bay better than anyone. Unarguable. Curren brought Rincon level skills to the Bay. Aloha.
Only 671 subscribers, this man was the greatest ambassador surfing ever had, until Kelly took over
Tom Curren was also
He was the hero from my day
The first hints of modern day surfing. Larry Bertleman, Buttons These were yhe guys that inspired the Z-boyz and Dogtown crew and everyone else im sure. J-bay was the wave we drew on our brown, paper wrapped school books.
Da legend.✨
Great vintage surf video view. Thanks Shaun!
When J-Bay had only one shop.
looks better in the yellow suit on the longer board...Curren took this style of surfing to another level...and Slater next IMHO
0:38 What a turn.
Awesome !
Esse era o cara
No leashes and Great Whites....Knarley !!!!!!!!
No Wetsuit in the 70s!! Ouch!!!
low sprawling stance? What!
Kind of Magik !
0:10 Thomson may have ridden J bay better than anyone else before but definitely not since.
These days a 14 year old on a modern board could outperform whatThomson did back then, and the kid would just be an average grom.
tom curren
Back in the late 90's my wife, a casting director and I had the opportunity to meet him and spend some time with him in Hawaii while making the film In God's Hand...of course we were both veteran surfers my wife and I so it was great to know we were not just guests at the party..