Trying to FIX the PS3 that I couldn't fix in March 2019
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ย. 2024
- Hi, this video shows me attempting to fix a PlayStation 3 Fat that I failed to fix in March 2019.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince.
You know what I appreciate? You do fixes while showing them completely uncut on camera. You only fast forward on parts where you're undoing a screw, or soldering something. And you do everything without really giving up. And you only give the repair a break if you've gotten nowhere with the repair. And then follow up when you find a breakthrough with the repair. I really do appreciate it.
Making mistakes are how we learn. You did good, taught yourself, and everyone that watched a lesson. More than I've done for the world tbh
Stanley Steamer - TH-cam is hardly "the world" .
memyselfandi I don’t think anyone asked. I think this guy was just trying to be positive and you proceed to do what almost everyone on the site does: take a massive shit on everything positive because your lives are miserable.
And again if you didn’t, see the first time: no one cares
@@Thevamp1reking Cheers to that!
@@Thevamp1reking There's so many things wrong with what you said : 1. " I don't think anyone asked ". - Um, Asked what, as I didn't answer a question, I made a comment referring to something ridiculous which Stanley Steamer said. You do know the difference between a question and a comment don't you, actually you don't seem to know otherwise you wouldn't have made that brainless statement. 2. I don't have a miserable life, my life is great actually, I have more than enough money to do with as I choose, I don't have to answer to anyone for anything and I am a very happy person. 3. "And again if you didn't see the first time: no one cares." - If no one cares then why did you reply to my comment, you obviously care enough to waste your time to make nonsensical observations, so thank you for contradicting yourself.
@@doiron12 lol, you're another one who agrees that no one cares about my comment, yet by agreeing with everything which charles thomas said, you obviously care about what I said also, so thank you for contradicting yourself as well.
"I need to turn off the thermal paste." - Vince 2020
lol
He needs to make shirts and I'll buy one if it says "I need to turn off the thermo paste."
🤣😂☠️
@@phillipzan2005 I would buy that! lol
@@ericlegacy8834 nah you can't, you would need to apply some CPU over it 1st.
When my girlfriend wants to de-sress, she watches the Kardashians. I watch Vince break consoles.
Thats a good one.
Some new info has recently surfaced, the chip balls are usually ok, but those shinny chips are the issue, their underlay was defective from day one, heat cycles break the joints to the main chip. Also you can now transplant the 40nm chip from ps3 slim. Nec tokens are a short repair anyway as they dont go wrong usually, although replacing them does allow it to usually work a few weeks.
Chip bump, in fact it's the same issue they theorize is related to fat 360's.
@@realKryptic17 thats very true, they must have had some serious manufacturing defects going on
Getting flashbacks of the "let's use a disc to pull the other disc stuck in this Wii console" episode D:
Haha that was the video that started it all for me.
That brought back some memories for me as well :)
This is why i like when you upload failure videos - community now knows how to DON'T delid CPU and that knowledge is very important.
PS. Your brute-force style was amazing xD
Haha, thanks Solve IT. In all seriousness though it is really important like you say. When people watch things on TH-cam they often don't realise that the person doing the job may have done it 50 times before. This de-lidding on the CPU is really hard to do, and I would imagine that most people fail the first few times they do this but that isn't normally shown. I knew I would get grief over this video but because of it I now know to try Molybdenum wire next time. That may work and then help others out. At the very least it should serve as a warning to not attempt it without proper tools. Lol, I did love your comment :-)
@@Mymatevince Did you ever give the Molybdenum wire a go? I've heard others suggest fishing line but haven't thought of Molybdenum. Couldn't that potentially scratch the die on the CPU as well?
In reference to your comment about making a shorter video, I honestly enjoy the longer ones. Here’s hoping you keep at it!
Aw man, sucks that that CPU chip broke. We've all been there with electronics projects - the feeling when you accidentally break something is gutting...
On to bigger and better things eh? Thanks for still making great videos, and showing when it doesn't go right! Because that happens!
A great idea I've heard to prevent overheating is to remove the power box from inside and put in an external case like the 360 did. Use the now empty area inside to install an additional fan. I know someone that did that, and it works perfectly!
removing those without hot air?! Absolute madlad
Vince - When you are in sensitive areas using a heatgun and you want to control where the heat is going, I use plumbers putty to cover small capacitors to stop them getting knocked off accidentally.
Just cover the parts you don't want to heat up and remove and reuse the putty afterwards and costs about £3 for a tub.
You can also use plumbers putty as a clay bar to clean your car if you feel inclined.
Going back to 8:04 in the video, those capacitors were made by a company called AVX, as you can see in the label. I used to work for that company back in 2000. TAJ after the name AVX refers to the profile of the capacitor and it was one of the profiles I used to make. Incidentally a company called Kemet manufactured the original Tokin Capacitors that you are replacing here and Kemet used to supply us with the Tantalum powder that we used in manufacturing. That brings back so many memories ;)
Gutted about the damage at 29:15 but as you say, you now know for the future. Great video, thoroughly enjoyed it, keep them coming ;)
Proper good job there Vince, nice soldering technique, i should try that out, shame the CELL delid went wrong, don't worry about, i was in the same tracks on my youth, used a kitchen knife instead, on my G04, oh well youth stupidity.
What can i advise is to delid only the RSX, the CELL use the Eraser Method, i have a guide at PSX-Place, basically the Eraser acts as a pressure sandwich making contact with the die and and the IHS, avoids deliding, but if you have the tools and the guts go for it, with the painters knife is still a huge risk, i always wanted to try with a thin nylon line, but after my failed G04 CELL delid back in 2011, i sweared not to delid any more CELLs in my life.
Don't let that delid discourage you though, keep at it 👍
Thanks Naked Snake, I have just purchased some 0.08mm and 0.14mm Molybdenum wire and some little handles to attach it too. Might work???? Worth a try.
I like the idea of the eraser method, certainly a lot safer :-) Feel free to post a link to that page on here if you like. I can always take it out of spam if it doesn't go through. I am expecting a lot of grief on this video but I think it is important to show how hard it is to do. The knife would need to be less than 2mm, flexible but also rigid!!! Even then I think with the amount of force needed it could well end in a scrape or 2 or in my case 200 :-)
@phim q really
saw your tutorial on psx , my ps3 slim's acting weird, it turns off when playing games like rdr but its fine when playing gta v, is it a nec/tokin issue? Should I replace it all or just the rsx? thx
Argh!!!!! This was going fantastic up to the point you took a crowbar to that IC cap!!! Great video though! You've proved that the caps were the issue again I think! We live and learn! Maybe try some light heat (just as you start to lever) next time, maybe even try and get some IPA under there to see if that helps with the seperation? "Turn off the thermal paste!!!" LOL!! That's the sort of thing I would normally say!
Vince, definitely get yourself a painting knife, doesn't need to be anything special or expensive. I bought one off Amazon after watching a rossmann video and i use it for everything from screen swaps to opening plastic clips to prying off 3d prints, it just works. Honestly one of my top most useful non-soldering related tools.
"im just going to ease them off"
proceeds to brutally assault capacitor with a screwdriver
Was just curious, I`m into cleaning/fixing my old consoles these days :) stayed for the music and the guy with major guts and a great attitude, Who knew fixing a ps3 could be such a thriller. Glad it didn`t blew up. Sorry it didnt work out. I sympathize. But thank you for sharing. Many of us could learn a lot from this.
Use Molybdenum Wire to cut through using heat also, we use it to separate Samsung screen from the touch pannel
Thank you. I like the idea of this, I wonder what thickness would do the job. I have seen 100m of 0.08mm wire on eBay with the screw down handles. Do you think 0.08mm would be too weak??
@@Mymatevince 0.08 sounds a bit to thin and weak considering how much force was needed to lift the 2nd problematic lid, I use 0.11mm if it helps to remove screens from touch pannels and even that snaps but the wire is cheap and works
awesome
@@martinthompson3940 Thanks Martin, I have just ordered up some 0.14mm Molybdenum wire, I also got the 0.08mm because it came with handles to save ripping into my fingers. Hopefully this may make the job doable in the future, if not then I am sure it will be useful for other projects. Thanks again :-)
Nice one!
Both the cpu and the gpu can be replaced, they call it the "frankenstein" ps3, apparently it has been a thing for years in certain parts of Asia, but only recently the western community found out about it and managed to somewhat perfect the method of doing so. Usually they do it to replace the old 90 and 65nm RSXs due to a manufacturing issue that nvidia was having at the time where they used the wrong type of underfill for the type of 95% lead solder balls they were using so it caused them to crack much earlier than they should so they normally replace the 90nm rsx with the 40nm from the later slim models, the early revisions of the 65nm rsx also had the same issue, unfortunately you can't use the super slim's 28nm one because it isn't compatible(yet?), Honestly it's just more trouble than it's worth.
Never stop trying to do the hardest parts Vince, it's what makes your videos.
You should have used a razor blade to cut the adhesive in the corners diagonally first, making sure to cut the side where it contacts the IHS not the PCB, you achieve this by putting pressure on the blade upwards. Once all corners are cut through you can move to cut the sides.
Vince mate you’re doing amazing. I keep watching your channel and it makes me aspire to do the same. It’s the problem solving I’m addicted to. There’s a great satisfaction fixing things you once knew nothing about. It may sound daft but it has always amazed me how electricity travels through metal that converts it all to a computer processor. It’s incredible. It makes you wonder what else you could achieve. Anyways I’m rambling loving your work and I wish you all the success and good luck you deserve.
cpu is matched to nand and the drive, and is a massive pain to swap them!
not to mention reballing headache
Thanks tecfixed :-)
@@davidbentham9586 especially that many balls!
@@tecfixed2840 Haha, yeh.i dredd that task the most.
My Mate VINCE liked and subbed, thanks for the content
mad respect to you Vince! I could hear and feel your pain brother! it's all a learning process working on consoles and this is such a good resource for me and anyone wanting to learn how to work on PS3's! I once tried working on my psone and I ended up killing the board completely! but guess what, it was my first time doing so and I felt absolutely terrible! but I learned my lesson and guess what? I too was not using the correct tools for the job! I didn't do enough research and did not prepare for the job!
This is the best tutorial to date.
I’m always checking up for new techniques because delidding a PS3 is difficult and risky. Hopefully a safe, consistent, and easy technique will emerge someday, but what we have now isn’t so bad with practice.
While there’s nothing ground breaking here over the previous best video, it demonstrates the process better to see it done by practiced hands. There’s no benefit to applying heat, and the best place to start on the GPU is at any of the corners and not the glue gap across from the NEC\Tokins.
Hey man, sometimes you win, sometimes you learn. Never lose. :) Thank you for making this video so that we can all learn together.
I've been watching your videos for a while now Vince. I'm not into fixing stuff myself, but I do take your advice and watch your videos "purely for entertainment." It's nice to see how far you've come along. I remember your early videos; you used to always start out with your multimeter. You hardly do it now. It's great to see how far you've come. Thanks for all the great videos and keep entertaining us. 🙂
Great video mate! It’s okay to mess things up to teach us not to do it. The videos on here only show the successes not the failures. It’s why I subbed.
Don’t be hard on yourself Vince, this is a video that we all hope to learn from wether you get it a good result or not. I really enjoy these. You did get it going which is a big plus 👍 & we learn’t what is under the lids & how delicate it is. Some people on here need to learn manners in relation to their comments 😔
I definitely destroyed my first PS3 learning how to delid the gpu sadly. I was able to learn from it and properly delid my second console with no issue and bam got it working without overheating! P.S I used a feeler gauge to open the main processor. If you hold the board upright and look down to it you can see where to place the blade.
You can use tooth floss to delid
Vince, I recommend using really strong nylon sewing thread. Put it around the lid and use it as a garrote to try to cut through the adhesive. Unfortunately, I also screwed it up because I got impatient and used a sharp instrument that was too thick. Using nylon thread is time consuming but 100% safe.
Good idea. I will try that next time, is there a video of someone doing that?
Absolutely. The amount PS3s that were scrapped due to misdiagnosis, was really unfortunate... Especially the 60gb models 😭
Hey Vince, loved your video. Here is a tip,Guitar string does wonders when trying to pry off things like these. You you def try that, you’ll be amazed how good that works
This video gave me cold sweat, but it was very honest. I am pretty sure even professional repairmen make such mistakes, they just don't post them online. Your technique for replacing the capacitors was nice.
Weird thought but this is essentially how doctors gained knowledge over the last 500yrs. Not every patient survived. So I'm guessing this cost you 20 or 30 quid but look at what we've learned.
You rule, Vince! Really. I can't tell you how many times I've used a video of yours to make sure that I'm on the right track or a particular method is *likely* safe.
Thanks a ton! I'm currently doing this exact fix and I'll try to reply back when done to post results. You may not even see it but others might and that's what counts.
always remember to turn off your thermal paste
I've an old non-bc that has the high fan Rev whenever the machine is turned on. It's totally bogus and I can only think I could reinstall webman but I never once assumed it had to be delid!! That was quite a thing to see. I really appreciate these ps3 videos being as it's my favourite console. Plus the capacitor replacement is a REVELATION. your vids prove that so many ylod can now be saved from the scrap yard. Especially those glorious 60gb cechA/Bs out there in the wild. Great video keep it up, mate! Cheers.
I've delidded a couple of ps3s in the past and honestly I recommend some painting knives for removing heat spreader on the CPU. You can sharpen the tops to help initially break the glue and for the GPU, just use a thick business card and a PCI bracket with some heat. It should just pop cleanly.
Good video, butchered that poor cell though. If you ever try it again in the future(delidding I mean) consider getting some palette knives like used for oil. painting. Super thin but no sharpness. It's how I performed a delid recently on an A01.
The specific ones I used for anyone curious was made by Arrtx and were some from amazon for about 6 usd(a 5 piece set). I used the number 1 and number 4 and just took my time(NEVER angle the tip down towards the chip, ideally keep it parallel or bend the tip to point up slightly). I've also heard of at least some people in the community performing the delid with fishing line.
Alternatively find someone in the community who has done many successfully and get them to do it. Still just absolutely amazing to see this repair in the wild like this demonstrated(the nec tokin I mean).
Might have just needed a re paste , be surprised , i have had to do it over again on a CPU , i got a little to much paste on there or it was not quite contacting properly whatever the case , started over & re pasted & all was fine & how loud it was does not indicate a need of a delid & soft paste neither , my paste was fresh only just put it on there !! & my processor went up to 91C fans like an aircraft carrier going off & shutdown , was all caused by either to much paste or a bad contact didn't need a delid , A delid is the last resort , its not an ivy bridge processor with an aggressive OC , shouldn't really need a delid , the hanging music was quite fitting though whilst that IHS was being butchered , knew it was all over
Loving all the tut tut experts on here vince, if they’ve watched enough of your videos they’ll know you’re all about the learning, keep entertainI guess bro 😊👍🏻
Correct. And i've always been a huge fan of vince. But it seems his skills went backwards. Seeing how he uses brute force really is disappointing after all the time. But you're right: it's for entertainment...
It was an enjoyable watch Vince, and sometimes the only way to learn is to fail, none of us are perfect, keep up the great videos mate! Ps, dont forget we all learn with you too!
Don't feel too bad, Vince. You've got to break a few eggs if you want to make an Omelette.
If I had to guess, though, Thermal paste might not have helped there. Sometimes you'll get that ramping fan behaviour if the power supply is overheating. Given the state of that PS3, though, it could've been anything.
Shame about the end result, you were so close to restoring it to its former glory. Good attempt, sad for the console but happy for the entertainment and genuine effort.
As entertainment a riot, as a learning experience - painful but helpful. You still have a great average on fixing things, much better than mine. Shop littered with failed attempts.
Saw a video on ps3 light of death and it is a problem with the GPU manufacture and the the caps would not lasted long.
Yep, the main problem was the underlay in the CPU and RSX being terrible for the "High-Lead" Solder Balls
Hi. That three beeps and flashing red light means overheating. I removed those plates off of my PS3 CPU and GPU and while put it together got this error. I finally figured out that during reassembly the plate did sit on the chip correctly. So the heat didn't transfer to the plate and though the heatsinks. You can try to re assemble it again in a proper way and see if it works.
Some you win some you lose! Nice of you to show that it is not easy and if you fail you can always learn something! Keep up the good work!
Well, you still have the drives. Brilliant attempt and you win some, you lose some, but personally I think you should consider learning reballing or reflowing. So don't dump that board yet. 👍
Solid advice I'll take this advice if I mess up with my repair I'm doing haha
That tiny glipse of life then being faded away ripped my heart a tiny bit, but it was a learning experience for you, so it also has a bright side! :)
We live, we learn. We move on. Really enjoyed watching ❤
Hey Vince! I don't own a PS at all but appreciate you taking one for the team! On that main chip (CPU) that you say you mangled, it looks like it sits on top of the main board? Perhaps in the future you can take that whole board off and put a new one on? I have no idea what that entails or even if it is worth the effort but it would be fun to see you try!
maybe you could try piano wire? I have seen body shop men use piano wire to salvage non-reusable moldings. The tiny wire slices through the glue without damaging the paint or the moldings.
Great video Vince. Sometimes my determination to fix everything gets the better of me too!
Why is it you find the videos you need AFTER you make a mistake? I’ve watched countless videos of de-lidding and felt confident. I felt like you did after you removed the CPU plate, which was very difficult to remove. I decapitated two NEC Tokins before the plate came off. The GPU came off so easily that I said to myself I should have done this side first and then tested it. It doesn’t look like I gauged any traces, so hopefully replacing the two NEC Tokins will get me back to playing. I’ve always told my kids that it’s better to learn from other people’s mistakes than from your own. I subscribed so now I can do both. 👍🏻
Nice attempt vince it’s all learning. I learn a lot watching your videos. Keep up the great work. Shame this wasn’t fixable but at least next time you will have more knowledge and able to fix the next one
Absolutely love your videos. Found you by accident, subscribed instantly.. all the best.
Just to add, removing the caps that way is absolutely fine, just don't pry them and instead keep the tool flat and push it under them they will pop off fine
You won't hurt the board as it's just breaking the dead caps off and and there isn't any other components under them.
The dried out thermal paste under the ihs was the original issue. I mucked up my first try also.
Now I use Two double edge old school razor blades like in a paint scraper with a pair of channel-locks.
I would have gone the other way with those capacitors, instead of scraping on the positive side, I would have put the positive side straight onto the pad, that way you only had to deal with the negative side.
When it came to revealing more copper, I would have just gone straight onto the vias themselves, positive on pad, negative straight onto vias, job done, no scraping anything away, no having to deal with the small amount of space on the positive side.
Always worth a try with these things, you did the right thing by trying to fix the thermal paste, no need to feel bad that its broken now, you didn't make it worse or better but you now have more experience and that is what matters :)
Yeah exactly, he made it better THAN worse, much worse lol
Not a waste of time at all, delid makes a huge difference to temps, and we all learn from making mistakes. I've killed a PS3 with just one tiny scratch to the CELL in the past, that pesky adhesive is very strong. Next time use a painters knife, you can also use a sanded down (both sides!!) nail file or a thin razor blade. It is key to use a thin tool very carefully and slowly. Good luck. Thanks for the YLOD guide, will be attempting soon on two fats.
I know this might be stupid to mention, but have you put back the small capacitor that you knocked off by accident? 24:05
This is why I haven't done a delid on mine. Instead I just did my own safer and easier twist on the eraser mod, using 1/8" cardboard as a proof of concept. My temps went from 72C at idle with the fan speed at 80%, to 53C with the fan set to 35%. The system has a good 10 hours on it now, and still doing fine. My next step will be to swap out the cardboard with thermal pads to hopefully drop another few degrees.
@10:50 instead of scraping the positive, you should(ve) scrape(d) the negative/middle copper, negative isnt as important if exposed and there's no risk of microbridges
The way you removed those NEC Tokin capacitior's was impressive. My removal was a total pain. Even after heating them and taking a solder iron to them I had to break them down bit by bit. Next time I'll try your brute force method. Nice video.
The GPU is the one that requires attention 99% of times on PS3. So yes, hindsight.
Hey...at least now you gave a board full of spare components. You can even practice CPU and GPU removal for fun. 👍
Hello Vince, thank's for the video; where do I find the capacitors? Cheers!
I’ve used molybdenum wire to delid in the past 👍🏻
Is the thermal paste something you would normally have to do or was that because this machine was worked on before?
Honestly vince you had a good crack at it and learned a lot along the way you can't be too harsh on yourself. In hindsight I think you shouldve just put new thermal paste on it and put the 5p back in the clamps to see if that made any difference at all before going down the route that you did etc that way you wouldve completely eliminated that possibility. Anyways great vid as always.
Hey Vince, now with a SYSCON UART you can see if there was an underlying issues. You can remarry a CELL B/E to the Syscon using a UART chip now. So that answers your question.
Been waiting for this one!!
Don’t beat your self up. You did an excellent job replacing the Nec Tokins and brought the system back to life!! Awesome job.
On de-lidding.. You gave it a go and it didn’t work out this time. Next time you’ll come back with a better approach and with proper tools ( 1 and 2 painters knife worked well for me). You have a better feel for what you’ll be getting into next time. Also this shows people that try to attempt this just what can go wrong if you rush a little. Not being negative I love the video and hope to see you tackle more of these PS3’s! ( CECHA01, B01, E01, C01, A00 if you can get your hands on them😊)
NSC Mods show you how to make a delid tool. You tale something like a metal nail file or even the tools you used and you file those tools until they are really thin and also check and make sure they dont scratch anything.
I was outraged when i saw your delid procedure... XD
Almost stop the video there as i was too angry.
Still made a good learning for you.
It's his PS3, not yours so chill out dude!
@@HuntersMoon78 Still damaging working stuff by lack of knowledge or tools, but he need to do what he need to do to learn, even destroy a PS3 :)
Yoldark it’s not a loss as this is one of the phat ps3s without backwards compatibility with ps2 games. So I don’t care.
FINALLY. ASKED FOR THIS WEEKS AGO 😂. Thank you Vince
Hi Vince, would heating the spatula that you are using help with the removal of the lids? I think it would cut through the adhesive like butter, what do you think?
hey vince! love the channel! i was trying to find a good deal on those capacitors any recommendations?
I admire your efforts vince, i would invest in a ir heater (even a preheater) the trick with these ps3 boards is to get alot of heat into the board.i usually set the lower heater to 165c, then a top heater will come off in 20 secs without damaging anything. cutting is a big no no and screw driver eek.
That’ll teach me to post a comment before I’ve watched the whole video...
It was interesting to see the replacement capacitors do the trick initially as I thought a yellow then red light was basically unfixable. It’s a shame it ended how it did, but you live and learn. It was clearly overheating so you had to try something, so don’t be too hard on yourself.
Just the thermal paste and something like a penny to hold those aluminium blocks against the lid and keep things tight a bit , you already did the job with the capacitors 🦾🦾🦾 good job 👏🏼
Excellent video. Super interesting topic.
Being someone that's botched 2 working motherboards doing a de-lid (one doing the CPU and the other, the GPU) It was painful watching you de-lid the CPU. I completely agree though, unfortunately in order to learn the process sometimes sacrifices need to be made. I hope you found a better tool for the job after this video. To answer your question at the end, I have gotten away with just doing the RSX chip on one of my consoles and it significantly helped cooling. Sometime the CPU is just too risky. I bought painters knives to attempt it again, but I haven't gotten gutsy enough to try it on a working motherboard. Slims seem to be even trickier in de-lidding from my experience. I'd recommend exercising caution when prying up on the RSX to de-lid also. That's how I botched one. Everything looked okay when it popped up but I must of broken some solder underneath the RSX itself because it now does a quick shutdown after booting. I'm thinking about trying a reflow on it to see if I can get it working again. I've been doing the razor blade method (NSC's method) on the RSX and have successfully de-lidded 2 out of 3 so far. One was a slim that I couldn't get it to budge after giving it hell. I decided to leave it as is in fear of breaking another one.
we learn from your mistakes and your successes :) but sometimes it is,nt all about the end product , the journey is the important part and what we learn on the way . keep up the good work vince
Vince it was an initial success followed by a hell of a lot acquired knowledge...that’s a win in my book ;)
This was brillint Mate. Awesome work.
when updating the high speed fans might be normal. I know when updating BIOS in a laptop, desktop, or even a NetApp Raid the fans speed up and run at high speed. Then when the system reboots the fans return to normal operation. Just a thought, never did an update on a PS3 to see normal operation.
He didn't update the console? I can confirm that the fan ramping up and getting as loud as the PS3 in the video did is NOT normal for them.
What a shame vince, it was coming along great. Great video anyway!
I did my first one of these a few weeks ago, lucky for me all went well.
I still do delid on some BC consoles. If you look RSX from side where tokins are you can see small gap, there you stick your tool. It needs to be thin and sharp so you can cut silicone. Need to be careful, if you scratch surface of the chip it is game over.
Tip if you ever run into simular issues in the future. You can kind of tell where the leads will be under there before you attempt to remove it!
If you have a look around it on the outside, you can see where the leads are getting fed in/out of the chip.
So perhaps one side could be safer to enter than another. Just to minimize the chance of hitting something bad when you have not tried it before.
10:26 thank god Vince is not a Dentist
I did almost the same thing but I didn’t pry the GPU 🤣. I cooked the board on the stove and I cooked it with the blow dryer. Cleaned the whole thing like new. Didn’t see any damage on the traces at all. Added thermal paste. Let the system reset itself and boom. I got life. Pray for me that I get a couple of years out of it before I have to do it all over again. Love it.
Vince, all those videos using feeler gauges, etc are as wrong as how Tokin capacitors problem was misdiagnosed...
So, believe me, next time you try using similar technique you will destroy the very fragile CPU again - I was also watching those videos doing everything "by the book" - destroyed countess numbers of PS3 - even when there is no visible damage something like feeler gauge puts enough pressure to actually destroys the balls under the CPU.
I finally found 100% working solution for myself and it's amazing how easy it is - I guess everything is easy with the right tool.
So, partially I got the idea from a German guy on TH-cam (maybe that's why it didn't spread to the English speaking world) who like 10 years later I cannot really find on TH-cam anymore to give you video link to see, but he made the necessary tool in very difficult way anyway - the easy way I make my own tool:
1. get disposable shaving razor - one with suitable design of the handle - usually the cheapest ones has such simplistic design - basically you have 3 components: straight plastic handle, then slightly tilted part going to perpendicular part holding the knives.
2. break the perpendicular part holding the knives, leaving you with the straight handle plus the tilted part of it
3. remove one of knives and bend it in the middle - the angle of the bend is not critical, depending on the angle of tilted part of the handle, angle between 135 to 100 degrees will work
4. join one side of the knife (in respect to the bend) to the tilted part of the handle - you can use glue or even just wrap some wire around it. basically, what you end up with is half of the bend knife, then tilted part of the handle and the other half of the knife use as joining point to glue them together and then the handle. (if my description is too confusing - it's like letter "L", but with the long line consisting of the handle with the tilted part and the short line is the second half of the knife)
How to use:
5. if you look around the CPU, you will see there is one spot with gap in glue - maybe 5mm or so, but the gap is enough the knife of the above tool to go inside. Actually, due to the spring action of the bend knife, when you push the tool toward the heatsink, until the tilted part of the handle hit the heatsink stopping you from pushing more, the knife will go up and away from the CPU, ensuring you're cutting the glue between the rest of the glue and the heatsink and not between the CPU and the rest of the glue, which risk to cut the CPU. that makes the tool very safe. In any way do not cut yet, but the cutting action is push towards the heatsink because of just aforementioned and forward.
6. heat with hot air 250C for 30-40 seconds, that will loose the glue enough to allow the above tool to cut like knife through butter - no force no pressure, heat more if it's cool down and cutting become harder before you go through all sides of the CPU.
Maybe, my descriptor of the tool is not perfectly clear, but I am sure it gives you an idea. So, if make similar tool, then really removing the heatsink is extremely easy - it requires no force at all.
any pic of the tool would help
I actually really loved the capacitor replacement. I've seen people try to heat the capacitors to try and pull them off, but honestly, since they are getting tossed anyway it seems like breaking the capacitors to avoid potentially damaging the board is the way to go.
I know you have said in other comments that you were getting a different tool for delidding the CPU, and someone might have already said this, but no matter what tool you use the silicon that is used to glue that IHS to the CPU is actually fairly soft even when cold. Some say they heat the CPU before delidding the CPU but it isn't really necessary and if you feel much resistance I would back the tool off and just check that it is thin enough and not hitting embossed metal lip on the lid.
Thanks mate, appreciate the insight and wisdom. Cheers, from Australia.
personally i feel like the temps were fine and there were faulty temp sensors, hense the super loud fans