I love how you take us through the entire journey, even the bits that you do to make tooling that you end up not using so we [the viewer] can learn about the whole process, not just the cutting bit. It's such a joy to watch you work, as ever. :-) Happy New Year!
You probably dont care at all but does anyone know of a method to log back into an Instagram account..? I somehow lost the login password. I would love any tricks you can give me.
@Ezra Joel i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out atm. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
“Keep the hotdogs out of the blender”😂😂 Gold! Seriously though Quinn, every video of yours I watch just demonstrates how little I know about machining! Top shelf as usual, highly entertaining and informative!😎😎
Dang it. I paused just to comment on this. You're right. Absolute gold. My 3 year girl old fell asleep to this video tonight. Thanks for helping me help them know "Girl Power!" Quinn.
I usually have the opposite problem believing I know more than I actually turn out to know. I finally took a beginning manual machining class at the local community college pre-covid, and it was really interesting and fun to find how many of my preconceptions were 100% wrong, and how many things were completely not on my radar but were actually quite important. I _did_ do better than most of the class after I got _past_ that and I put it up to all of the time I spent watching TH-cam machining shows. The class was geared (see what I did there?) toward making a little wobbler steam engine and I was the only one that got a working unit done. I put that up more to poor teaching, sadly, that I was better equipped to overcome from all the before-mentioned TH-cam watching. I spent the first 90% of the term helping others but at the end I realized I had to get my butt in gear or I'd have nothing to show for the effort. I was shocked that no one else got to the goal including people who at the beginning of the class seemed to know so much more than I did. The class needed a lot more structure and hand holding. We were kind of thrown to the wolves with vague diagrams and vaguer instruction by a teacher that was more focused on outside efforts than on teaching. He _did_ tell great stories about racing strange vehicles though. You'd usually find him somewhere in the shop telling someone stories about _not the class content._
I couldn't agree more with all the positive comments you get. You are such a joy to watch and so talented, you don't dwell on mistakes, you just cast them aside and come up with a solution to fix them. You are so incredible forward thinking.
Well as someone who used to hang out at steam fairs and railway meets I can say that your flywheel has (proportionally) less visible "wobble" than many real flywheels on full size steam engines I've seen. Also nice to see experiments with fixtures, not something you see much on youtube.
I’ll call it a win 😊. A friend builds a lot of model engines. He does his wheels on a faceplate as well and has a set of adjustable standoffs to hold the spokes away from the face to allow complete access to the rim as well as make up for slight warp in the casting and spokes. You’re coming down home stretch and looking great 👍
I just finished a big burrito and a diet Coke and was happy to see that you had a new video that I could watch as lunch settled. I got to thinking about how nifty it feels to have learned so much from your videos that are also just... I just feel nice watching them. You are a gifted teacher and I am so impressed with your lack of laziness. Your work has impacted me and I am thankful for you. And burritos.
Your creativity and logic behind the clamping concept you gone with in the making is outstanding! What a lesson👍 Thank you for this great video. Really can not wait to se the machine running. Superb entertainment. Stay safe and healthy. Cheers from Germany.
Well, you identified tasks, established order of operations, overcame obstacles and created an excellent finished product, as is the tradition. I’ve heard many of your viewers remark that you are certainly full of wit. You make it look easy and we’re living vicariously thru you. No pressure here. 😎👍
This was the way I would have done it as well. With the exception of placing some brass blocks between the flywheel and faceplate. To hold the flywheel away from the faceplate. Good job that you did. Some one doesnt like what you did, tough. Let them go build one.
Quinn, maybe you considered this and ruled it out. If you had a big enough piece (or two smaller ones) would it have been possible to bolt it to they faceplate (screwed from the back) and then tapped holes in the front where you needed them, for toe clamps? Had to do this for a really large part once. Also an option for large soft jaws when the part is too flimsy to clamp with the jaws alone...
Hi Quinn, another great vid in this series. This is a great contrast to how Joe Pieczynski did his fly wheel and a fantastic example of being able to do something by other means and still get a great result. Not everyone will have an adjustable 3 jaw or a face plate or a 6 jaw or many other things. I'm expecting my lathe in a few weeks and it will be all I will have at first so I'll need a different solution for that 15deg hole. But that's the beauty of this wonderful TH-cam community - different solutions. In a year of insanity, despair and uncertainty you and the rest of this community have helped. From Australian thanks. 👍👍🦘🦘🦘🦘🦘
You are awesome! that fly wheel was no easy task and as always some good humor, a mill that seems to love lacking real estate and a heck of a lot of skill made for a very entertaining video. Thank you for this amazing series and this wonderful video!
CONGRATULATIONS!!! You have taught me more in half an hour than I learned in the last half year. As a complete beginner, I was about to sell my steam engine castings because I didn't think I would ever be able to machine them... EVER. Now I have an action plan of how to proceed. THANK YOU Blondihacks. PS: That flywheel is looking beautiful.
Fabulous. I wouldn't have done it quite that way but, like most youtube experts, I haven't got a clue what I am talking about. Looking forward to the next episode.
Your videos are a lucky find. I really enjoy watching and your commentary. If I'm not careful I might learn something. I've been building steam and gas engines for many years. I can't remember how many flywheels I've machined, but this PMR No1 would give me bad dreams for sure. Your method looks like a good solid way to approach this little monster. Thanks for posting these videos I really enjoy them and I appreciate the effort.
Very impressive!! The proof of being done well is how smoothly it rolled on the crank. When you have good balance proves how long it can spin freely without slowing down due to physics.
Nice work. Maybe grind a flat on the crank for the set screw to bottom onto. Helps stop the flywheel turning on the crankwhen the screw isn't tight enough or works loose.
I struggled with flywheels until I worked up this method. Make a disk of plywood smaller than the rim with a hole in the center big enough to work on the hub. This disk goes between the spokes and the faceplate and keeps the rim off the faceplate. Next cut a disk from sheetmetal (1/4 ") like the wood one and drill 4 holes to match faceplate through both disks to clamp everything together with bolts. Center casting just like you did. Cut away. Don't through disks away as you will use them again.
Yah I looked at that method for this, but there was no room. The whole flywheel is only 1/2” thick and there’s no overhang on the rim. Nowhere for the wood to go.
Thanks so much for the insights in your thinking. Well done cracking the shell of chill iron. For what it’s worth I found a home made angle grinder holder very useful, it clamps to the tool post and is great for dealing with hard stuff. I still have to work out how best to manage tool feeds, but as a solution it keeps coming back!
Quinn I have very much enjoyed your and Joe's builds on this steam engine . You are taking the approach that most of us hobby machinists would . While Joe of course is a full time professional machinist . Can't wait too see yours running ( full steam ahead ) 😁.
Beginning hobby machinist here, and I too have liked watching both, and have managed to learn things from both. I personally don't have a huge interest in model steam engines, but the sum total of both channels doing the same project amounts to a work holding extravaganza, and well worth sitting through for that alone.
I am not a machinist, I just watch them on TH-cam. Question: Why didn't you simply keep the reamer in the tail stock and use it as an indicating pin when you flipped the flywheel to the other side? Would it have not at least got your fixture very close to the ballpark of running true and saved you from indicating so much??
@@UncleKennysPlace I see your point. But using that logic, when Quinn used a cutting tool as a gauge pin, isn't that committing the same crime in a different point of view?
G'day Quinn greetings from Tasmania and happy New Year. You did a good job of that fly wheel I'm not sure how I would have tackled that and it was a poor casting which made it worse, but you came through on it good to see you again the steam engine is looking great take care stay safe kind regards John
When I was still a maintenance mechanic intern at a small box factory, I wrecked a dial indicator by not pulling the plunger off of the part that I was attempting to "tap" into true on a WWII era South Bend Lathe. My mentor tried to stop me when he saw what I was about to do but he wasn't about to get his hand smashed either. I got a proper ass chewing and the parts guy made me order a new one instead of taking lunch with everyone else. Thanks for showing the proper way to dial something in.
Haven't watched it yet, but what I can already say is that the stars really lined up this time: I just finished watching Clough42's video when this went up
I'm working on my engine, and was doing the spot face in a similar way to yours. Then my milling machine gave out the magic smoke. I think it's time for the flywheel since my lathes still good
a few challenging setups in this one Quinn but as usual you came out on top, looks awesome! and love that you took the time to remove as much runout from the flywheel as possible :)
If you get inclusions that are too big, fill them with JB WELD before doing your finishing pass. With a difficult hard scale flywheel like this I find the technique I use to turn very small diameters from larger stock. Position the tool with the cutting edge parallel with the face plate and touching the OD of the flywheel, now pull away from the flywheel and feed in the cross slide to take a deep cut, check that the tool will cut material for the full rotation( no intermittent cutting or this won’t work) now start cutting, all the cutting force should now be in Line with the lathe bed so it shouldn’t move the casting on the faceplate. Also you are digging right under the hard scale. I had an irreplaceable flywheel from 1910’s that was hard as glass , it had a big casting mark where the riser had been hacksawedn off. The lathe wouldn’t touch it so I rigged up a turntable to a workbench and clamped down an angle grinder to grind this down to size then I tried this technique, it feels very very aggressive but is much easier on everything except the nerves. Steve. Ps one way to stop the casting sliding is to place coarse Emery paper pads between the casting and the faceplate, rough side to the casting. . One more thing, Check out this little baby for drilling those awkward grub screw holes. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193705210551 A bit of machining to fix into the tool post and voila.
'Shop rag spider' 👍❤ Reminds me of my first lathe... which was a cordless drill and some scotch-brite for cutting & polishing brass tubing. If it works, rock on!
Bonjour Quinn, Good job ! Having tools is one thing, knowing how to use them is another. You have both, I have neither, so I envy you and follow with great interest your ideas for shaping these kind of big pieces. Furthermore, you are able to drink a cup of tea with one hand and saw with the other, you could also be a great pianist :+) Amicalement, Raphaël
If you intend to paint this engine you might consider filling in the inclusions with a filler of some sort. At my job we'd use Belzona as it's as strong as the iron is (and will be under load) but as you're just after aesthetics you could fill it with any number of materials. Metal putty, J.B. Weld, Bondo, etc. Just a thought.
I know you made this video over a year ago but this may be of use to someone. I am building a Traction Engine, when it came to the fly wheel, as you mentioned the outside face had to be slightly domed. I found the best way to create the dome was by hand, I botched up a scraper by using an old file, and about 2-3 degrees of relief and it5 worked great. I have to say, I was using Harrison M300 (Small industrial Lathe) at my engineering club. I'm not sure if it could be done on a hobby machine. I guess if you have good stability it could be done.
Other than the lack of concentricity in the process, would it be a consideration to remove the scale manually with a stationary belt sander, and then finish out on the lathe?
Lathe drive dogs do not associate well with shop cats: makes for a rough bearing surface. Liked the fixturing work. Perhaps consider an eccentric clamping set for the face plate as a future project?
I am learning a lot here, thanks! I am waiting for you to run out of ideas for video subjects, and then you stumble across some articles on solar Stirling engines...
Quinn, I've been able to run a bottoming tap, freehand. The work piece will have enough threads in it, to properly locate the bottoming tap. I'm quite liking this video set! steve
Order of Operations question: Why did you not face-drill-ream the hub first, once it was roughly centered? I would think doing so would set guaranteed reference surfaces to utilize your gauge pin (end mill) or live center tailstock to secure or recenter the part. Thanks and Keep Turning- An Apprentice Machinist playing Monday Morning Quarterback
The way the rust is cleaned off reminds me very much of the problem of peeling potatoes/apples/carrots without removing too much of what's underneath (including the occasional patch that's deeper than the rest of it).
Beautifully done as usual,if I don't have a dog to drive the part between centres can I use a pair of shop cats ? They are equally matched as they are Siamese . THANK you.
Would it work if you spun out a cone to match the ID of the rim, milled slots for the spokes and used that and some clamps to hold it? One of these years I'm going to buy a lathe and try this for myself.
Is the roughness as a result of the mold, or is it as a result of the size/shape/casting process? I'm kinda curious as to whether this or a similar process would have been scaled up for production flywheels back in the steam age
Fun fact. At a hard facing machine shop I contracted at, they had a leathe that had a grinder on the tool post just for taking scale off castings. It was not the best tool in the shop. And for someone that has just the one, it would be a nightmare to do and not crap your machine.
I love how you take us through the entire journey, even the bits that you do to make tooling that you end up not using so we [the viewer] can learn about the whole process, not just the cutting bit. It's such a joy to watch you work, as ever. :-) Happy New Year!
You probably dont care at all but does anyone know of a method to log back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow lost the login password. I would love any tricks you can give me.
@Kolton Major Instablaster ;)
@Ezra Joel i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out atm.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
“Keep the hotdogs out of the blender”😂😂 Gold! Seriously though Quinn, every video of yours I watch just demonstrates how little I know about machining! Top shelf as usual, highly entertaining and informative!😎😎
proof she is a machinist and im not is the large chunks of hotdog missing from my phalanges
Dang it. I paused just to comment on this. You're right. Absolute gold. My 3 year girl old fell asleep to this video tonight. Thanks for helping me help them know "Girl Power!" Quinn.
I usually have the opposite problem believing I know more than I actually turn out to know. I finally took a beginning manual machining class at the local community college pre-covid, and it was really interesting and fun to find how many of my preconceptions were 100% wrong, and how many things were completely not on my radar but were actually quite important. I _did_ do better than most of the class after I got _past_ that and I put it up to all of the time I spent watching TH-cam machining shows. The class was geared (see what I did there?) toward making a little wobbler steam engine and I was the only one that got a working unit done. I put that up more to poor teaching, sadly, that I was better equipped to overcome from all the before-mentioned TH-cam watching. I spent the first 90% of the term helping others but at the end I realized I had to get my butt in gear or I'd have nothing to show for the effort. I was shocked that no one else got to the goal including people who at the beginning of the class seemed to know so much more than I did. The class needed a lot more structure and hand holding. We were kind of thrown to the wolves with vague diagrams and vaguer instruction by a teacher that was more focused on outside efforts than on teaching. He _did_ tell great stories about racing strange vehicles though. You'd usually find him somewhere in the shop telling someone stories about _not the class content._
What I almost love most about all this, is that you simply make your tools if you need them. So nice!
I couldn't agree more with all the positive comments you get. You are such a joy to watch and so talented, you don't dwell on mistakes, you just cast them aside and come up with a solution to fix them. You are so incredible forward thinking.
Your patience in achieving the proper set-up is what makes you a great amateur machinists. AND, we all get to learn along with you. Thanks
Well as someone who used to hang out at steam fairs and railway meets I can say that your flywheel has (proportionally) less visible "wobble" than many real flywheels on full size steam engines I've seen. Also nice to see experiments with fixtures, not something you see much on youtube.
The first 4 seconds of this video made the highlight of my day :D
That music killed it!
Neatly done.
And two incidences of "That's exactly where I wanted that to go."
Laughed at both!
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
I’ll call it a win 😊. A friend builds a lot of model engines. He does his wheels on a faceplate as well and has a set of adjustable standoffs to hold the spokes away from the face to allow complete access to the rim as well as make up for slight warp in the casting and spokes.
You’re coming down home stretch and looking great 👍
Excellent result. That's one of the best-running model flywheels I've seen.
I just finished a big burrito and a diet Coke and was happy to see that you had a new video that I could watch as lunch settled. I got to thinking about how nifty it feels to have learned so much from your videos that are also just... I just feel nice watching them. You are a gifted teacher and I am so impressed with your lack of laziness. Your work has impacted me and I am thankful for you. And burritos.
Wow getting towards 75k subscribers now. Good for you. You absolutely deserve it.
Your creativity and logic behind the clamping concept you gone with in the making is outstanding! What a lesson👍 Thank you for this great video. Really can not wait to se the machine running. Superb entertainment. Stay safe and healthy. Cheers from Germany.
Well, you identified tasks, established order of operations, overcame obstacles and created an excellent finished product, as is the tradition. I’ve heard many of your viewers remark that you are certainly full of wit. You make it look easy and we’re living vicariously thru you. No pressure here. 😎👍
This was the way I would have done it as well. With the exception of placing some brass blocks between the flywheel and faceplate. To hold the flywheel away from the faceplate. Good job that you did. Some one doesnt like what you did, tough. Let them go build one.
Tapping holes in the faceplate will give you more setup options for hard to hold parts. Very clever setup.
Quinn, maybe you considered this and ruled it out. If you had a big enough piece (or two smaller ones) would it have been possible to bolt it to they faceplate (screwed from the back) and then tapped holes in the front where you needed them, for toe clamps? Had to do this for a really large part once. Also an option for large soft jaws when the part is too flimsy to clamp with the jaws alone...
Oh sorry, piece of plate aluminum...
Hi Quinn, another great vid in this series.
This is a great contrast to how Joe Pieczynski did his fly wheel and a fantastic example of being able to do something by other means and still get a great result.
Not everyone will have an adjustable 3 jaw or a face plate or a 6 jaw or many other things. I'm expecting my lathe in a few weeks and it will be all I will have at first so I'll need a different solution for that 15deg hole. But that's the beauty of this wonderful TH-cam community - different solutions.
In a year of insanity, despair and uncertainty you and the rest of this community have helped.
From Australian thanks. 👍👍🦘🦘🦘🦘🦘
You are awesome! that fly wheel was no easy task and as always some good humor, a mill that seems to love lacking real estate and a heck of a lot of skill made for a very entertaining video. Thank you for this amazing series and this wonderful video!
CONGRATULATIONS!!!
You have taught me more in half an hour than I learned in the last half year.
As a complete beginner, I was about to sell my steam engine castings because I didn't think I would ever be able to machine them... EVER.
Now I have an action plan of how to proceed. THANK YOU Blondihacks.
PS: That flywheel is looking beautiful.
Considering what castings are, that flywheel concentricity looks about as good as anyone could get it. Nice work!
Awsome! You are a realy good teacher and i think You are underestimating Your own skills to be honest.
Fabulous. I wouldn't have done it quite that way but, like most youtube experts, I haven't got a clue what I am talking about.
Looking forward to the next episode.
Your videos are a lucky find. I really enjoy watching and your commentary. If I'm not careful I might learn something. I've been building steam and gas engines for many years. I can't remember how many flywheels I've machined, but this PMR No1 would give me bad dreams for sure. Your method looks like a good solid way to approach this little monster. Thanks for posting these videos I really enjoy them and I appreciate the effort.
Very impressive!! The proof of being done well is how smoothly it rolled on the crank. When you have good balance proves how long it can spin freely without slowing down due to physics.
Nice work.
Maybe grind a flat on the crank for the set screw to bottom onto. Helps stop the flywheel turning on the crankwhen the screw isn't tight enough or works loose.
Yah, I think I will. That flywheel is very large for one tiny setscrew
@@Blondihacks maybe a touch of blue loctite on assembly as well.
I struggled with flywheels until I worked up this method. Make a disk of plywood smaller than the rim with a hole in the center big enough to work on the hub. This disk goes between the spokes and the faceplate and keeps the rim off the faceplate. Next cut a disk from sheetmetal (1/4 ") like the wood one and drill 4 holes to match faceplate through both disks to clamp everything together with bolts. Center casting just like you did. Cut away. Don't through disks away as you will use them again.
Yah I looked at that method for this, but there was no room. The whole flywheel is only 1/2” thick and there’s no overhang on the rim. Nowhere for the wood to go.
Looking pretty fly, for a white metal wheel
Thanks so much for the insights in your thinking. Well done cracking the shell of chill iron. For what it’s worth I found a home made angle grinder holder very useful, it clamps to the tool post and is great for dealing with hard stuff. I still have to work out how best to manage tool feeds, but as a solution it keeps coming back!
I'm loving this series on the steam engine, can't wait for it to be finished and see it in action!
Quinn I have very much enjoyed your and Joe's builds on this steam engine . You are taking the approach that most of us hobby machinists would . While Joe of course is a full time professional machinist . Can't wait too see yours running ( full steam ahead ) 😁.
Beginning hobby machinist here, and I too have liked watching both, and have managed to learn things from both. I personally don't have a huge interest in model steam engines, but the sum total of both channels doing the same project amounts to a work holding extravaganza, and well worth sitting through for that alone.
The first 4 seconds of this video my thoughts were Quinn is spinning her wheels again. Excellent use of the face plate.
I am not a machinist, I just watch them on TH-cam.
Question: Why didn't you simply keep the reamer in the tail stock and use it as an indicating pin when you flipped the flywheel to the other side? Would it have not at least got your fixture very close to the ballpark of running true and saved you from indicating so much??
@@UncleKennysPlace I see your point. But using that logic, when Quinn used a cutting tool as a gauge pin, isn't that committing the same crime in a different point of view?
Your commentary is very informative to my uninitiated ears. Thanks for that.
With regards to the unusual fixturing methods, as my grandad used to say, if it works, it’s not stupid! I love you vids Quinn, please keep em coming!
End result....a workable flywheel!! Looks great from here Quinn!! Awesome job!! Can't wait to see it in action. Take care and be safe!!
Love the way you made your drill bit extender with the loctite. And the faceplate use was a great idea
I was half expecting to see your dremel show up somehow mounted on your cross slide to get through the scale. Great video, enjoying the series!
G'day Quinn greetings from Tasmania and happy New Year. You did a good job of that fly wheel I'm not sure how I would have tackled that and it was a poor casting which made it worse, but you came through on it good to see you again the steam engine is looking great take care stay safe kind regards John
And THAT is why I just store all my tools in the chip tray.
When I was still a maintenance mechanic intern at a small box factory, I wrecked a dial indicator by not pulling the plunger off of the part that I was attempting to "tap" into true on a WWII era South Bend Lathe. My mentor tried to stop me when he saw what I was about to do but he wasn't about to get his hand smashed either. I got a proper ass chewing and the parts guy made me order a new one instead of taking lunch with everyone else. Thanks for showing the proper way to dial something in.
Mate, that flywheel rotation looks amazing. Very impressed with the result from that setup.
Cool, a lot better result than some others I've seen.
Excellent series, I can't help feeling the engine would look much better with studs and nuts not slotted screws
Yah, I may replace those at some point. The slotted screws aren’t as nice
Haven't watched it yet, but what I can already say is that the stars really lined up this time: I just finished watching Clough42's video when this went up
His whole crankshaft wobbles like crazy did you see that ? :D
@@joeypoortman3312 that wasn't Clough42, you are referring to a guy who knows nothing about steam engines,
@@debonh3828 Indeed!! Got them mixed up, but you know who i mean then ;) haha. Clough42 is a perfectionist machinist!
the gameplayers would be betting strongly on you, loving this series.
Love how this is going! I'm almost finished with my PM2 Engine- First one I've ever done
thoroughly enjoy the number of washers used in this project
You had my thumbs up from the intro!
You made a lovely job of that
I'm working on my engine, and was doing the spot face in a similar way to yours. Then my milling machine gave out the magic smoke. I think it's time for the flywheel since my lathes still good
a few challenging setups in this one Quinn but as usual you came out on top, looks awesome! and love that you took the time to remove as much runout from the flywheel as possible :)
Thanks Quinn - great start to the new year
If you get inclusions that are too big, fill them with JB WELD before doing your finishing pass.
With a difficult hard scale flywheel like this I find the technique I use to turn very small diameters from larger stock. Position the tool with the cutting edge parallel with the face plate and touching the OD of the flywheel, now pull away from the flywheel and feed in the cross slide to take a deep cut, check that the tool will cut material for the full rotation( no intermittent cutting or this won’t work) now start cutting, all the cutting force should now be in Line with the lathe bed so it shouldn’t move the casting on the faceplate. Also you are digging right under the hard scale. I had an irreplaceable flywheel from 1910’s that was hard as glass , it had a big casting mark where the riser had been hacksawedn off. The lathe wouldn’t touch it so I rigged up a turntable to a workbench and clamped down an angle grinder to grind this down to size then I tried this technique, it feels very very aggressive but is much easier on everything except the nerves. Steve. Ps one way to stop the casting sliding is to place coarse Emery paper pads between the casting and the faceplate, rough side to the casting. .
One more thing,
Check out this little baby for drilling those awkward grub screw holes.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193705210551
A bit of machining to fix into the tool post and voila.
This is not a job i am likely to do, machining a flywheel. But I learnt tons by watching this video!
Another way of machining this would be on the mill with a rotary table. You can then use carbide endmills for the hard cast.
The trick with rag, instead of spider in the back of the spindle, is pure homeshop gem... nice...
Fantastic piece of engineering you are a very professional person I wish I was as good stay safe 👨🏻🏭🇬🇧
Very exciting and surprisingly complex! Many thanks.
Do you need to balance the wheel as well, or does it not run fast enough for that to be a problem?
Nice! It's fun to see your skills and confidence grow as time goes on. I look forward to seeing the journey :)
Don't forget you can hold drill bits in collets, sometimes that comes in handy for clearance problems.
Indeed, I have shown that on my channel, but most drills are odd sizes for collets.
I can see where this did create some headaches for you. As someone who is a supporter on Patreon Thanks for the stickers.
"Quatloos"... Love a good Star Trek reference! Always great content! :)
Thanks for the Stickers Quinn! Great video!
'Shop rag spider' 👍❤
Reminds me of my first lathe... which was a cordless drill and some scotch-brite for cutting & polishing brass tubing.
If it works, rock on!
Bonjour Quinn,
Good job !
Having tools is one thing, knowing how to use them is another. You have both, I have neither, so I envy you and follow with great interest your ideas for shaping these kind of big pieces.
Furthermore, you are able to drink a cup of tea with one hand and saw with the other, you could also be a great pianist :+)
Amicalement, Raphaël
If you intend to paint this engine you might consider filling in the inclusions with a filler of some sort. At my job we'd use Belzona as it's as strong as the iron is (and will be under load) but as you're just after aesthetics you could fill it with any number of materials. Metal putty, J.B. Weld, Bondo, etc. Just a thought.
Another excellent video Quinn! Your production quality is top notch. Thank you so much for sharing this build with us.
Mother Invention.❤️❤️❤️
Love that drill extension!
I know you made this video over a year ago but this may be of use to someone. I am building a Traction Engine, when it came to the fly wheel, as you mentioned the outside face had to be slightly domed. I found the best way to create the dome was by hand, I botched up a scraper by using an old file, and about 2-3 degrees of relief and it5 worked great. I have to say, I was using Harrison M300 (Small industrial Lathe) at my engineering club. I'm not sure if it could be done on a hobby machine. I guess if you have good stability it could be done.
Other than the lack of concentricity in the process, would it be a consideration to remove the scale manually with a stationary belt sander, and then finish out on the lathe?
Lathe drive dogs do not associate well with shop cats: makes for a rough bearing surface. Liked the fixturing work. Perhaps consider an eccentric clamping set for the face plate as a future project?
LOVED the video! And many thanks for the update on the current Triskelion exchange rate.
I still had mine at the old rate of $5 to 73 quatloos.
Nicely done! A very satisfying part to make. Great video!
Yay! It's actually a beautiful flywheel, considering what you had to work with. ;)
Another successful job done. Well done Blodi. Keep them great videos coming mate.
I am learning a lot here, thanks! I am waiting for you to run out of ideas for video subjects, and then you stumble across some articles on solar Stirling engines...
Stirling engines are super cool. I’ll surely build one at some point on the channel
Curious if you are planning to do any further clean up of the "medium quality" casting by hand filing?
Very nice machine work. Thank You.
use a boring bar upside down on back side of your tool post. you can machine a much larger diameter.
you make my day... or night ! I did not know that it's was so fun to watch a flywheel ! keep going keep machining and all the best for 2021 !
Quinn, I've been able to run a bottoming tap,
freehand. The work piece will have enough
threads in it, to properly locate the bottoming
tap.
I'm quite liking this video set!
steve
At that point she probably could have taken it out of the fixture entirely and finished it with the standard tap.
"I whipped up some pins" Dude, that would have taken me a week
Exactly my thoughts
"Keeps the hotdogs out of the blender"
That's a good phrase to keep handy.
Dynamic balancing is the next step for a perfect flywheel.
14:17
New favorite safety tip analogy
"...helps keep the hot dogs out of the blender."
=D
17:15 Hilarious comment! "An inch to long, when does that ever happen." I laught so hard! :D
Order of Operations question: Why did you not face-drill-ream the hub first, once it was roughly centered? I would think doing so would set guaranteed reference surfaces to utilize your gauge pin (end mill) or live center tailstock to secure or recenter the part. Thanks and Keep Turning- An Apprentice Machinist playing Monday Morning Quarterback
Lookin’ pretty fly!
Your wheel is looking pretty fly.
Great as always! I'm getting quite proud of this thing we're all building here 🤣
The way the rust is cleaned off reminds me very much of the problem of peeling potatoes/apples/carrots without removing too much of what's underneath (including the occasional patch that's deeper than the rest of it).
Beautifully done as usual,if I don't have a dog to drive the part between centres can I use a pair of shop cats ? They are equally matched as they are Siamese . THANK you.
excellent, as always. I didn't understand why the 15° tilt
Would it work if you spun out a cone to match the ID of the rim, milled slots for the spokes and used that and some clamps to hold it? One of these years I'm going to buy a lathe and try this for myself.
That is basically what I did, machined the wood to a good fit on the ID of the rim. Then some screws and washers to clamp the flywheel.
Is the roughness as a result of the mold, or is it as a result of the size/shape/casting process? I'm kinda curious as to whether this or a similar process would have been scaled up for production flywheels back in the steam age
Getting closer, can't wait for the big TA DA!!
great job with all the thinking ahead and little details. BTW love your humor!
Fun fact. At a hard facing machine shop I contracted at, they had a leathe that had a grinder on the tool post just for taking scale off castings. It was not the best tool in the shop. And for someone that has just the one, it would be a nightmare to do and not crap your machine.
Very nice - clever set-ups!