I’ve replaced several prisms on the OM-1 I used donor prisms from OM-10 & OM-G. Pretty easy and satisfying once you look through that clean & clear viewfinder.
I prefer not to have an off button for the reason that Olympus stated: when the light meter is switched off, you can still pick up the camera and fire a shot, the OM2n's shutter will fire at 1/60th second with the meter off. Recently a heron (large bird) landed in my garden very close - just outside my window. I had only a Sony digital electric camera nearby; by the time the camera turned on, the heron had gone.
I feel you, but a physical on off button to prevent accidental exposure right on shutter would be nice to prevent accidental exposure. I have had more accidental exposure than missed moments. Since film cameras are instant with no start up time compared to digital cameras a switch is effective. Plus the cost of accidental exposure on film needs to be taken into consideration
One very impostant reason to buy the OM2N is the proprietry TTL metering system which I find excellent in getting the most accurate exposure when light conditions are changing and the camera is in Aperture priority mode. Meaning that the shutter will close onse enough light is sensed by the light meter through the lens. Most cameras if not all cameras these days take a ready of the light prior to the shuter opening. The Olympus does not as it is measures the light through the lens constantly while the shutter is open and closes once it receives enough light. A good experimment (dont need to have film in the camera) is to set your camera to take a shot in very low light situation (over 1 second) and press the shutter see how long it takes to expose(shutter to close). Now repeat but this time grab your flash and fire a couple of bursts while the shutter is still open and see that the shutter will close reducing the exposure time as the camera has sensed that enough light has been recieved for correct exposure. Nikon, Canon, Sony, Fujifilm and even Leica cameras dont have this TTL system.
Yes the off the film metering is really fascinating and quite complicated because they have to stuff two different meters into the camera, one for viewfinder metering and one for actual metering. This added cost for consistency. The downside to this is if camera’s viewfinder metering is out of wack then it will be utterly confusing to use in Aperture priority mode.
Shooting street with total manual cameras can be very fast and easy. Stop the aperture down to F8 or F11and prefocus at say 5 meters then just point and shoot. With the meter always keep your meter set as you move along then if a shot pops up unexpected you are ready to point and shoot. If you need to adjust either focus or the exposure it should be very close and easy. Plus film has a very good and deep dynamic range to handle exposures if they are a little off. So Prefocus stop down for added depth of field and keep your exposure settings ready to go.
While I admit zone focusing is one of the reliable ways of "always ready" - provided it's ideal situation outdoors (i.e., sunny, or bright cloudy days) it can be quite challenging for beginners or people who prefer a more spot-on exposure and total DOF control, so I try to provide the newcomers with advantages and disadvantages of these two cameras so they can make the right choice from the start.
Not having an "exposure lock" isn't a big deal for me with the OM1. I'll focus and meter off my subject that I want properly exposed, re-compose and just ignore the fact that the match-stick meter is indicating an "over-exposure" The prism on My OM1 I had fixed when it was CLA'd. For an extra 50 bucks they converted my electronics to step down common 1.5 vold batteries down to the 1.3 (or whatever the voltage of the discontinued battery was)
I have all the Nikon F cameras and the OM build quality is every bit as good as Nikon. The OM2 is comparable to the Nikon FM2, but with better build quality and a similar needle meter. You can buy a battery at just about any pharmacy or camera store.
1.5v battery will make the light meter goes up 2 stops, so your light exposure will be lower than reality 2 stops. Set the ASA 2 stops down to compensate for it. For exp if you shoot 400ASA film then set the ASA on the camera to 100.
Tested the theory many said about newer 1.5v battery, different meters actually responds to the new battery voltage differently just need to test on first roll to find out.
I found out today that as the LR44 batteries lose power, the camera functions (meter readings) suffer. SR44 batteries are preferred (apparently). Also, unless you need to take fast/instant/snapshot images, pre-focusing for street photography worked well for photogs like H.C.B. etc. in the years before aperture priority or even internal metering.
Re "off" button just don't wind your film on. With these old camera is best not to keep the springs of the camera under tension with a cocked shutter. Re om1 too many dials to use. set film speed. set Shutter speed for the light dull day low, bright day higher speed. Then the only dial you need to use is the aperture dial to get the correct exposure that's how it was designed to be used as there wasn't the fixation on blurry background back then
That is correct. However the OM2 is just a bit faster to work with and sometimes if I don’t want to look through viewfinder to make a quick shot, it will do a correct exposure using Aperture priority.
WeinCell MBR625 is a zinc-air 1.35v battery made specifically to replace the old mercury cells in cameras and light meters. I've used them and they work great. However, zinc air batteries once activated will slowly discharge even when not in use. But they have a stable voltage throughout the cycle.
The only time I've found mirror lock-up useful is doing extreme macro photography when focus is set and camera mounted on a tripod... Pretty limited use. The OM2, with self timer enabled, will actually lift the mirror so in a sense, it's a "self-timer mirror lockup"
Thanks for your in depth video, it's very detailed. Which one would you recommend for someone who wants to learn how to shoot on film with no prior experience. I'm no professional and currently looking for my first film camera and see these two a lot.
There are quite a lot of choices, but if you had no prior experience, I'd first establish the needs based on whether you want autofocus film camera (usually have auto exposure and auto programing options so minimal user input or experience required), or a manual focus camera, then decide on if you want to start from scratch by having a full manual camera with mechanical shutter and a light meter, or have a jump start by finding a manual focus camera with shutter priority or aperture priority exposure.
Nice Video on my two favorite film cameras. I liked using them so much I never got into Digital; I will soon though. On the OM1 meter battery there have been 4 main OM1 through the years M1, OM1, OM1 MD, and OM1n maybe there a little different or as I suspected a drop resistor was put in. I have two OM1s now which both were bought used, one is sensitive to the battery voltage and one is not. Maybe someone put a drop resistor in it. If I was to modify it I would put in a itsy bitsy voltage regulator, which I might do, as the one with the sensitive meter is the better one a OM1n which matches my OM2n (bought new, took thousands of shots with it) better when it comes to flash.. There are some other simple options such as using air batteries, or using a coin battery holder (that has a volt regulator) that you put in a silver cell in to it then put the holder in the camera. Problem with drop resistor is they might have to be like electronically fitted to the draw of your particular meter. I remember when the OM1 first came out how good the light meter in it was compared to other in camera meters. A lot were a joke so you would be better off guessing. I use to use a light meter the size of a cell phone, which is another option on other SLRs and rangefinders back then, then I bought an OM2 and all changed. Your part about the foam is something I need to take care of, I have a bunch of double digit OMs I was given some are OK some are junk but the prisms are there if I need them; but it would be better to remove the Foam Preventatively maybe.
Loved these cameras for their compactness, but have since settled on Minolta XD5 and XD11. The most impressive in Olympus lineup would be their last generation of OM4 Ti models, which featured advanced spot metering and averaging for the perfect exposure, and titanium chassis for durability.
You don't really need exposure compensation on manual only cameras. You meter the scene, set the exposure parameters, and they stay there until you change them. They don't change if you recompose the shot. Of course, you can do this via the manual mode on the OM-2, but it's an extra step or two. And the other purpose of exposure compensation is when you are photographing things that are predominately very light (like snow) or very dark (like the face of a black cat). The meter is set to expose things so they look about 18% gray, so while in auto it will make such scenes look darker or lighter than they should. Again, this isn't much of an issue with manual exposure (once you learn to remember it), because you can simply factor this in yourself when you set the exposure.
Hi, I am aproud owner of a OM2-n and was wondering, at what shutterspeed it operates, when turned off. Does anyone know? Thanks and keep this great channel going :)
When the OM-2n is in "OFF" mode, it will provide auto exposures in lighting conditions requiring shutter speeds as fast as 1/1000th second to as slow as approximately 1/60th second.
There is no R (rewind button) to press on OM1 and OM2, there is a R lever switch where if you turn it 90 degrees, you can rewind the film. Are you sure you have a OM1 or OM2?
Thanks for the video, but what if I asked you to choose one or two other Olympus cameras for me, combining mechanical and electrical features and many necessary specifications, knowing that I have the OM10? Thanks
If you like feel of a mechanical watch get a later OM1. It just feels so nice. OM3 is also mechanical but sell for a bit more. The OM2 will work like your 10 in auto other then over a 30 sec exposure. Do you have the manual adapter? If not I would either get it or get another OM. Surprisingly you can get the OM20 (OM G in US) or an OM40 (OM PC in US) cheaper then the adapter. Stay away from the OM F.
Yes, a reliable battery is important, I always just carry a fresh pair of spare SR-44 silver oxide batteries when I go out and about on a shoot. EV dial is not as often used compared to a digital camera since film really has a much wider exposure latitude. I do find it annoying that I have to turn multiple times to do a large ISO adjustment.
Hey Eddy, I always recommend 1.55V SR44 Silver Oxide batteries amzn.to/3GO7cKn they lasts a long time and keep voltage consistent till the very end, but some other folks will say I am wrong and you need to use a low voltage 1.4v battery for proper metering but that’s entirely up to you.
Of a little less than 20 different variety of OM1 and 2s I've previously restored, none of them had disintegrated rubber dial, I would think your case maybe isolated.
Hi a little off topic question but - I heard about that famous OTF metering Olympus does. I bought a nice Zuiko 50mm 1.8 - is it worth it to buy the OM2 or do I have exact the same metering and functions on the OM40 ( I already got) ?
You have the same center weighted off the film metering as OM2 and something even better, the matrix metering on the OM40. So you have best of both worlds.
@@TheGizmoGarage thanks for the quick advice. I heard the OM40 is not as quality made as the single digit ones but the only thing I would love about the OM2 would be the small size. But if the metering is still the same maybe I should pass it and later go to the OM4Ti which I’m waiting for a nice piece and offer in the near future. Never had these in my hands I’m a Nikon guy with his FM2.
The OM 2n Off the Film metering is a bit better, can run a bit longer and is more accurate. If you are making negatives you will not see the difference in accuracy (IMHO), other then exposures over 30 s. I use both OM2n and OM PC, US version of the OM40 as my number 1 and number 2 camera. I would recommend that there is no real need to upgrade. If you get one in great shape for a good price then go for it though. The OM40 is pretty well built; the OM10 and OM20 were not as well built as the single digit ones but they were good and can still give years of service if you have one that was not beaten to death with an auto winder.
Hello, I have an OM-2 but the selector lever broke, here in my country it is extremely difficult to find spare parts, but I found parts of an OM-1 with the selector lever, it is possible to use the selector lever of the OM-1 in the OM -2?
If you mean the power on/off switch/top plate, they have different internal circuit board components due to different revisions, even for the same camera model, and you'd have to find the exact same revision as the one you have, then you just need to remove the cover from the donor camera and put it on your own camera. I do not think the top plate of the OM1 and OM2 are interchangeable, so you'll need to find a OM-2 top plate to replace yours with broken lever.
@@TheGizmoGarage Thanks for the reply, yes I speak on/off switch. My problem is with the plastic part, which are identical on the OM1 and OM2 models, the internal circuit is working perfectly, just the black plastic lever with white detail that broke.
@@victorcardoso656 You might be able to salvage one off a broken OM-1/OM-2, it is secured to top plate by a JIS screw usually, at least on the ones I've disassembled the top cover on.
@@TheGizmoGarage Thank you very much, I will invest in the broken OM1 to remove the part. As a last resort I do 3D modeling, the OM2 is too good a camera to be discarded because of a piece of plastic.
Out of all the OM1 I've restored (more than 10) I haven't encountered one with broken film spool. Most pressing issue is the gunk in viewfinder and possible corroded battery terminal/wires.
One big disadvantage of all electronic camera is that it is much more prone to break down and can not always be repaired. If something electronic breaks down, the whole camera is dead. I love them, but realize that they are more fragile.
I agree with you on that Electronic shutter breaks abruptly, while mechanical shutter will fail slowly, i.e. less accurate shutter speeds etc. But I do appreciate the accuracy of the shutter speeds on electronic OM-2s.
Why does every TH-camr make such a big deal about a camera not needing a battery. 99.9% of camera users would be like a fish out of water without a meter to guide them re- exposure. Film camera batteries are on the whole tiny in size and definitely lighter than anything else we put in a gadget bag……..just carry a spare one. Simples.
I started out with medium format and zone system and self developing and printing... I guess it's nostalgic? Granted this is a hobby now so ya can use whatever ya please. (I love light meters) th-cam.com/video/pMtVprw38pI/w-d-xo.html
It's not even a debate. Besides being able to shoot every shutter speed without a battery on the OM1... the OM2n is superior in every other way. Exposure comp and Aperture Priority really come in handy. And the meter in aperture priority meters off of the light hitting the actual film. So in real time it's calculating. Doing a long exposure on a tripod at night... a car drives by... it calculates those headlights. The OM2n is the better camera.
I’ve replaced several prisms on the OM-1 I used donor prisms from OM-10 & OM-G. Pretty easy and satisfying once you look through that clean & clear viewfinder.
I prefer not to have an off button for the reason that Olympus stated: when the light meter is switched off, you can still pick up the camera and fire a shot, the OM2n's shutter will fire at 1/60th second with the meter off. Recently a heron (large bird) landed in my garden very close - just outside my window. I had only a Sony digital electric camera nearby; by the time the camera turned on, the heron had gone.
I feel you, but a physical on off button to prevent accidental exposure right on shutter would be nice to prevent accidental exposure. I have had more accidental exposure than missed moments. Since film cameras are instant with no start up time compared to digital cameras a switch is effective. Plus the cost of accidental exposure on film needs to be taken into consideration
One very impostant reason to buy the OM2N is the proprietry TTL metering system which I find excellent in getting the most accurate exposure when light conditions are changing and the camera is in Aperture priority mode. Meaning that the shutter will close onse enough light is sensed by the light meter through the lens. Most cameras if not all cameras these days take a ready of the light prior to the shuter opening. The Olympus does not as it is measures the light through the lens constantly while the shutter is open and closes once it receives enough light.
A good experimment (dont need to have film in the camera) is to set your camera to take a shot in very low light situation (over 1 second) and press the shutter see how long it takes to expose(shutter to close). Now repeat but this time grab your flash and fire a couple of bursts while the shutter is still open and see that the shutter will close reducing the exposure time as the camera has sensed that enough light has been recieved for correct exposure. Nikon, Canon, Sony, Fujifilm and even Leica cameras dont have this TTL system.
Yes the off the film metering is really fascinating and quite complicated because they have to stuff two different meters into the camera, one for viewfinder metering and one for actual metering. This added cost for consistency. The downside to this is if camera’s viewfinder metering is out of wack then it will be utterly confusing to use in Aperture priority mode.
@@TheGizmoGarage I hope that doesn't happen very often? It probably isn't very easy/cheap to fix?
That's cool!
Shooting street with total manual cameras can be very fast and easy. Stop the aperture down to F8 or F11and prefocus at say 5 meters then just point and shoot. With the meter always keep your meter set as you move along then if a shot pops up unexpected you are ready to point and shoot. If you need to adjust either focus or the exposure it should be very close and easy. Plus film has a very good and deep dynamic range to handle exposures if they are a little off. So Prefocus stop down for added depth of field and keep your exposure settings ready to go.
While I admit zone focusing is one of the reliable ways of "always ready" - provided it's ideal situation outdoors (i.e., sunny, or bright cloudy days) it can be quite challenging for beginners or people who prefer a more spot-on exposure and total DOF control, so I try to provide the newcomers with advantages and disadvantages of these two cameras so they can make the right choice from the start.
@@TheGizmoGarage Yep i understand and actually i prefer my F3hp and Olympus OMG because they do have Aperture priority :)
Not having an "exposure lock" isn't a big deal for me with the OM1. I'll focus and meter off my subject that I want properly exposed, re-compose and just ignore the fact that the match-stick meter is indicating an "over-exposure" The prism on My OM1 I had fixed when it was CLA'd. For an extra 50 bucks they converted my electronics to step down common 1.5 vold batteries down to the 1.3 (or whatever the voltage of the discontinued battery was)
I have all the Nikon F cameras and the OM build quality is every bit as good as Nikon. The OM2 is comparable to the Nikon FM2, but with better build quality and a similar needle meter. You can buy a battery at just about any pharmacy or camera store.
FM2s are fine mechanical cameras, I've owned F4/FE/FE2n and FM3a in the past and I liked them very much, just a lot bigger.
1.5v battery will make the light meter goes up 2 stops, so your light exposure will be lower than reality 2 stops. Set the ASA 2 stops down to compensate for it. For exp if you shoot 400ASA film then set the ASA on the camera to 100.
Tested the theory many said about newer 1.5v battery, different meters actually responds to the new battery voltage differently just need to test on first roll to find out.
I found out today that as the LR44 batteries lose power, the camera functions (meter readings) suffer. SR44 batteries are preferred (apparently). Also, unless you need to take fast/instant/snapshot images, pre-focusing for street photography worked well for photogs like H.C.B. etc. in the years before aperture priority or even internal metering.
I agree with you, I now uses SR44 exclusively in all my analog cameras, and they don't leak like LR44
Re "off" button just don't wind your film on. With these old camera is best not to keep the springs of the camera under tension with a cocked shutter. Re om1 too many dials to use. set film speed. set Shutter speed for the light dull day low, bright day higher speed. Then the only dial you need to use is the aperture dial to get the correct exposure that's how it was designed to be used as there wasn't the fixation on blurry background back then
That is correct. However the OM2 is just a bit faster to work with and sometimes if I don’t want to look through viewfinder to make a quick shot, it will do a correct exposure using Aperture priority.
WeinCell MBR625 is a zinc-air 1.35v battery made specifically to replace the old mercury cells in cameras and light meters. I've used them and they work great. However, zinc air batteries once activated will slowly discharge even when not in use. But they have a stable voltage throughout the cycle.
The om-1 has a switch to lock up the mirror which can be helpful if you want to take long exposures. The om-2 doesn't have that feature.
The only time I've found mirror lock-up useful is doing extreme macro photography when focus is set and camera mounted on a tripod... Pretty limited use. The OM2, with self timer enabled, will actually lift the mirror so in a sense, it's a "self-timer mirror lockup"
💢 Zone Focus - literally the way to take fast pix / street photography
Yes Sir!
An external light meter together w. the OM1 is a great combo.
People have taken stellar street photography with fully manual cameras and lenses for decades 😎
That's for sure!
Thanks for your in depth video, it's very detailed. Which one would you recommend for someone who wants to learn how to shoot on film with no prior experience. I'm no professional and currently looking for my first film camera and see these two a lot.
There are quite a lot of choices, but if you had no prior experience, I'd first establish the needs based on whether you want autofocus film camera (usually have auto exposure and auto programing options so minimal user input or experience required), or a manual focus camera, then decide on if you want to start from scratch by having a full manual camera with mechanical shutter and a light meter, or have a jump start by finding a manual focus camera with shutter priority or aperture priority exposure.
Nice Video on my two favorite film cameras. I liked using them so much I never got into Digital; I will soon though.
On the OM1 meter battery there have been 4 main OM1 through the years M1, OM1, OM1 MD, and OM1n maybe there a little different or as I suspected a drop resistor was put in. I have two OM1s now which both were bought used, one is sensitive to the battery voltage and one is not. Maybe someone put a drop resistor in it. If I was to modify it I would put in a itsy bitsy voltage regulator, which I might do, as the one with the sensitive meter is the better one a OM1n which matches my OM2n (bought new, took thousands of shots with it) better when it comes to flash.. There are some other simple options such as using air batteries, or using a coin battery holder (that has a volt regulator) that you put in a silver cell in to it then put the holder in the camera. Problem with drop resistor is they might have to be like electronically fitted to the draw of your particular meter.
I remember when the OM1 first came out how good the light meter in it was compared to other in camera meters. A lot were a joke so you would be better off guessing. I use to use a light meter the size of a cell phone, which is another option on other SLRs and rangefinders back then, then I bought an OM2 and all changed.
Your part about the foam is something I need to take care of, I have a bunch of double digit OMs I was given some are OK some are junk but the prisms are there if I need them; but it would be better to remove the Foam Preventatively maybe.
Loved these cameras for their compactness, but have since settled on Minolta XD5 and XD11. The most impressive in Olympus lineup would be their last generation of OM4 Ti models, which featured advanced spot metering and averaging for the perfect exposure, and titanium chassis for durability.
Buy the OM40; 1/3 of the price, all the options of the OM2 and more. Beter metering.
OM40 is lovely! Except for the rubber grips, which are prone to nasty deterioration.
@@TheGizmoGarage use vaseline to maintain or restore!
Excellent presentation.
Thank you kindly!
Great video! Thanks for the effort
You don't really need exposure compensation on manual only cameras. You meter the scene, set the exposure parameters, and they stay there until you change them. They don't change if you recompose the shot. Of course, you can do this via the manual mode on the OM-2, but it's an extra step or two. And the other purpose of exposure compensation is when you are photographing things that are predominately very light (like snow) or very dark (like the face of a black cat). The meter is set to expose things so they look about 18% gray, so while in auto it will make such scenes look darker or lighter than they should. Again, this isn't much of an issue with manual exposure (once you learn to remember it), because you can simply factor this in yourself when you set the exposure.
18% gray scale metering is reliable but can be fooled easily. So EV does help make things quicker when using AE.
Hi, I am aproud owner of a OM2-n and was wondering, at what shutterspeed it operates, when turned off. Does anyone know?
Thanks and keep this great channel going :)
There is no mechanical backup shutter on OM2n. If battery dies the camera will only operate in Bulb mode
When the OM-2n is in "OFF" mode, it will provide auto exposures in lighting conditions requiring shutter speeds as fast as 1/1000th second to as slow as approximately 1/60th second.
Why do you have to setup exposure after focusing? You can do it before focusing.
Depending on situation. like cloudy days where sun moves in and out constantly.
I just got that 3 months ago and my film advance locked, I just pressed R button beside it to change film and it locked.
There is no R (rewind button) to press on OM1 and OM2, there is a R lever switch where if you turn it 90 degrees, you can rewind the film. Are you sure you have a OM1 or OM2?
You mean they don’t have a shutter lock button or lever because on/off button they have.
Great video!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video, but what if I asked you to choose one or two other Olympus cameras for me, combining mechanical and electrical features and many necessary specifications, knowing that I have the OM10?
Thanks
My personal fav is OM4-Ti that I've owned for a brief time. Otherwise OM-2n is great for faster automatic exposure shooting.
If you like feel of a mechanical watch get a later OM1. It just feels so nice. OM3 is also mechanical but sell for a bit more.
The OM2 will work like your 10 in auto other then over a 30 sec exposure. Do you have the manual adapter? If not I would either get it or get another OM. Surprisingly you can get the OM20 (OM G in US) or an OM40 (OM PC in US) cheaper then the adapter. Stay away from the OM F.
the thing I don't like the OM2n is the rubber exposure comp dial and it's literally useless without battery
Yes, a reliable battery is important, I always just carry a fresh pair of spare SR-44 silver oxide batteries when I go out and about on a shoot. EV dial is not as often used compared to a digital camera since film really has a much wider exposure latitude. I do find it annoying that I have to turn multiple times to do a large ISO adjustment.
Hi lee what type of batteries does the Oly OM-1 use please..
Hey Eddy, I always recommend 1.55V SR44 Silver Oxide batteries amzn.to/3GO7cKn they lasts a long time and keep voltage consistent till the very end, but some other folks will say I am wrong and you need to use a low voltage 1.4v battery for proper metering but that’s entirely up to you.
I never liked the rubber dial on the OM2, it degrades and loosens over time
Of a little less than 20 different variety of OM1 and 2s I've previously restored, none of them had disintegrated rubber dial, I would think your case maybe isolated.
Hi a little off topic question but - I heard about that famous OTF metering Olympus does.
I bought a nice Zuiko 50mm 1.8 - is it worth it to buy the OM2 or do I have exact the same metering and functions on the OM40 ( I already got) ?
You have the same center weighted off the film metering as OM2 and something even better, the matrix metering on the OM40. So you have best of both worlds.
@@TheGizmoGarage thanks for the quick advice. I heard the OM40 is not as quality made as the single digit ones but the only thing I would love about the OM2 would be the small size.
But if the metering is still the same maybe I should pass it and later go to the OM4Ti which I’m waiting for a nice piece and offer in the near future. Never had these in my hands I’m a Nikon guy with his FM2.
The OM 2n Off the Film metering is a bit better, can run a bit longer and is more accurate. If you are making negatives you will not see the difference in accuracy (IMHO), other then exposures over 30 s. I use both OM2n and OM PC, US version of the OM40 as my number 1 and number 2 camera.
I would recommend that there is no real need to upgrade. If you get one in great shape for a good price then go for it though. The OM40 is pretty well built; the OM10 and OM20 were not as well built as the single digit ones but they were good and can still give years of service if you have one that was not beaten to death with an auto winder.
Hello, I have an OM-2 but the selector lever broke, here in my country it is extremely difficult to find spare parts, but I found parts of an OM-1 with the selector lever, it is possible to use the selector lever of the OM-1 in the OM -2?
If you mean the power on/off switch/top plate, they have different internal circuit board components due to different revisions, even for the same camera model, and you'd have to find the exact same revision as the one you have, then you just need to remove the cover from the donor camera and put it on your own camera. I do not think the top plate of the OM1 and OM2 are interchangeable, so you'll need to find a OM-2 top plate to replace yours with broken lever.
@@TheGizmoGarage Thanks for the reply, yes I speak on/off switch. My problem is with the plastic part, which are identical on the OM1 and OM2 models, the internal circuit is working perfectly, just the black plastic lever with white detail that broke.
@@victorcardoso656 You might be able to salvage one off a broken OM-1/OM-2, it is secured to top plate by a JIS screw usually, at least on the ones I've disassembled the top cover on.
@@TheGizmoGarage Thank you very much, I will invest in the broken OM1 to remove the part. As a last resort I do 3D modeling, the OM2 is too good a camera to be discarded because of a piece of plastic.
@@victorcardoso656 did you fix your om2?
Hi, my old friend!
We missed you!
Where can I get my OM2n repaired?
Try this guy: www.zuiko.com/
High speed focusing is not s feature of the camera, it is a skill. Street photography predates auto focus.
True, except my eye is getting older :(
The 1.35v is different from 1.5v, see abundant info on Rollei 35……
Some meters might be more sensitive to voltage difference. I found with my Olumpus the 1.5v works fine in terms of operations.
Hi Lee i hear the spool on the OM1 breaks very easily
Out of all the OM1 I've restored (more than 10) I haven't encountered one with broken film spool. Most pressing issue is the gunk in viewfinder and possible corroded battery terminal/wires.
One big disadvantage of all electronic camera is that it is much more prone to break down and can not always be repaired. If something electronic breaks down, the whole camera is dead. I love them, but realize that they are more fragile.
I agree with you on that Electronic shutter breaks abruptly, while mechanical shutter will fail slowly, i.e. less accurate shutter speeds etc. But I do appreciate the accuracy of the shutter speeds on electronic OM-2s.
Why does every TH-camr make such a big deal about a camera not needing a battery. 99.9% of camera users would be like a fish out of water without a meter to guide them re- exposure. Film camera batteries are on the whole tiny in size and definitely lighter than anything else we put in a gadget bag……..just carry a spare one. Simples.
I started out with medium format and zone system and self developing and printing... I guess it's nostalgic? Granted this is a hobby now so ya can use whatever ya please. (I love light meters) th-cam.com/video/pMtVprw38pI/w-d-xo.html
Rubbish
I'm sorry to hear that
It's not even a debate. Besides being able to shoot every shutter speed without a battery on the OM1... the OM2n is superior in every other way. Exposure comp and Aperture Priority really come in handy. And the meter in aperture priority meters off of the light hitting the actual film. So in real time it's calculating. Doing a long exposure on a tripod at night... a car drives by... it calculates those headlights. The OM2n is the better camera.