The OM-1 was my first serious camera I bought (1979), and I still regret selling today. I had 28, 50 and 135 mm lenses. Thanks for reminding me of good times with it.
I had an OM-1 first (1976) and then I got the OM-2 when it came out, the greatest feature of that Camera (OM-2) was the Micro Processor driven Off - The - Film (OTF) Exposure system, where the Metering System read the light off of the Reflex Mirror like ALL the 35MM Cameras did, but then it took another reading off of the Shutter Curtain which had a Center Weighted Black and White Matrix Printed on it with 2 CCD's Pointed at the curtain and when the Mirror raised up, the CCD's read the light hitting the curtain and then pulsed again and read the Light actually hitting the Film as the shutter opened, this was the BEST System when used with the Olympus 310 Flash Unit...this was the FIRST Active Exposure System, FOOL Proof Flash photography....I made a small fortune shooting Wedding Photography back in the late 70's early 80's with that OM-2 and the 310 Flash. I still have the OM-2
A very clear, well described summary of the OM series. I have owned the OM-1 and OM-2N for some years now. They are my favourite film cameras. This will become a 'go to' video for many., I'm sure. Thank you.
I bought my first SLR over 30 years ago, a refurbished OM-10. I still have it and recently had it serviced. I bought a refurbished OM-1 a few years ago. I much prefer these film cameras over the absolute clutter jungle of these digital cameras.
My first real camera was a used OM-1 which I bought used in 1977 for $200 with a 50mm 1.8. You said it at the top of the video: it was a little jewel! I made the move to digital in 2007 and gave my camera away a few years ago. If I thought I would use film again, I would never have let it go. Cheers!
I had an OM1…. one of the best cameras ever made. With a PRIME lenses,(I had 24mm, 85mm, and 50mm… all Olympus own). My photography tutor could not believe my photos were from a 35mm camera, he was convinced they were from a medium format camera. I can honestly recommend this camera to anyone who wants to try FILM. Excellent. I also had an OM2 N… but I started with the OM10, then advanced to the OM1 and OM2 N.
I got my first OM1 (black body) in the mid 1970s, and it was love at first sight. I primarily used it for shooting surfing, when I lived in Australia, as well as occasional rock concerts (I still shoot music nowadays). When I went travelling around Asia it went with me, along with a 24mm f/2.8, the 50mm and a 75-150mm zoom. The body died a while back - too much time at beaches and too many trips to the humidity of India finally took their toll. I still have that original 24mm. But I bought more OMs. At one point I would always carry two bodies, one with colour film and the other with black and white. My current line-up is three OM1 bodies, an OM2, OM2 spot/program (black), an OM10 (which I gave to my son), and an OM40. My Zuiko lenses are the aforementioned 24mm, 28mm f/2.8, 35mm f/2.8, 3x50mm f/1.8, 135mm f/3.5, 180mm f/2.8, 35-70mm f/4, 35-105mm f/3.5, 75-150mm f/4, plus a Soligar 500mm f/8 mirror lens. Accessories are 2 x Winder2 motors, T32 flash, Quick Auto 310 flash and two Olympus camera bags, one big and one small. I may have a problem. The things that I like about the cameras that weren't mentioned are the size and brightness of the viewfinders that make focussing a breeze, and the fact that most of the lenses take a 49mm filter. The OM1 is still my favourite because it is completely mechanical and manual. As they only take mercury batteries that are no longer available - although there are modifications and alternative batteries - they still work perfectly without the battery, and there are plenty of lightmeter apps for phones to get an exposure reading, so you don't need to carry an extra external meter. As innovative as Olympus digital cameras are they don't have the same feel as the original OM cameras, so for me it's Canon for digital, but always Olympus for 35mm analogue, because they are still arguably the best SLRs ever made.
Olympus are the best. Small and light. I've got the OM1, OM2 and OM20. Lenses are wonderful and they have given me image quality like a medium format camera.
Something worth adding is the fact that on a good example OM1 or 2, you will experience a silky smooth film advance mechanism. Much smoother than that found on Nikon or Canon models of the same era, it was compared favourably to Leica. Another lovely ergonomic touch is the larger than normal rewind crank, just a little feature but one that adds to the tactile nature of using any film camera.
I've owned virtually every OM camera and many Nikons. Nothing- absolutely nothing- compares to the gear train and vertical metal leaf shutter on an F-2. Their corded accessories are far superior to Oly. I currently own three Oly digital SLRs, so I'm not a hater.
I have wanted an OM-1 since I was a kid, it took me a while, but I managed to pick up an OM-1 and an OM-2 with a couple of lenses in 2019. I too took a little time getting used to them, but I soon got the hang of them. A childhood dream finally realised and I am reall enjoying using them.
You missed some very big points, one being the OM-2 is battery dependent (unlike the OM-1). It (OM2) offers OTF metering, if I'm not mistaken, the first to market with the feature AND it utilized "matrix" metering (you can see the 'pattern' when you raise the mirror. It also offered TTL Flash, which was huge for the time. The OM-10 (OM-G) was such a drop in quality, relatively speaking, I don't think I ever sold one. At the time, it was comparable to the Pentax ME and Minolta XG-1.
I very fine review, I'll add a few thoughts of my own. My first camera that I bought with my own money was an OM-2n, in 1978 if I remember correctly. Since then, I've acquired the OM-1, OM-3, and OM-4. All of them are the best handling cameras I've ever used. Period. The location of the shutter speed, aperture, and focusing rings close to each other provide excellent ergonomics and is the key to the svelte handling. After I got used to the system, I couldn't go back to the borrowed Canon or Nikon SLRs of my parents. My thoughts on these cameras: OM-1: A true expedition camera when you're out in the rough for weeks and electricity is unavailable. It has a battery to run the light meter, but is not necessary for the shutter to operate. If your battery should die (and like me, you didn't bring a spare), simply load negative film and use the Sunny 16 Rule. Has mirror lock up. OM-2: Off-The-Film metering is excellent for auto-flash and extended auto exposures of 2 minutes and beyond. A semi-expedition camera, if the battery fails it has a mechanical 1/60 shutter speed. Using the timer causes the mirror to flip up a few seconds before shutter release, giving the equivalent of mirror lock up. OM-3: Similar to the OM-1 (mechanical shutter) but with upgraded and excellent spot meter system. Best in-camera metering system I've ever encountered for precise exposures, fantastic for slide film. No mirror lock up. OM-4: Similar to the OM-2 (including the 1/60 emergency mechanical shutter) but with upgraded and excellent spot meter system. Best in-camera metering system I've ever encountered for precise exposures, fantastic for slide film. Unfortunately, the OM-3 and OM-4, which were supposed to be Olympus' pinnacle cameras, have a battery drain defect. If the two 1.5v silver oxide batteries are left in continuously, they will be drained in about 3 weeks (even when the camera is "off"). So they need to be removed when the camera is stored or not being used for the day. While there is no clear winner here for me, overall I slightly favor the OM-2 for it's combination OFT metering, excellent battery life, and 1/60 mechanical shutter for emergency shooting (which came in handy a few times as being a short-on-money college student I always ran the batteries to the end). I use my Olympus Zuiko lenses on my DSLRs with an adapter. They are gems.
Scott G I was wondering if you can tell me about the recording quality of each, as someone trying to make movies and is looking for an affordable option it would be a great help
Olympus OM-1 is genial camera , statement from Olympus for all times. Its compact ,much compact than most of other bulky cameras bodies of its time and pure mechanical .It has exposure meter ,but its only exposure indicator,not automatic.Important tip,this camera exposure metering reqiures mercury elements with 1,36 volts,with modern 1,5 volts PX76 it made metering errors .
I should really have mentioned the battery issue. There is a Wien cell available that fits, and gives the right voltage. The alternative is to reduce exposure a little, to compensate for the slightly higher reading.
Original om1 sold for 300 canadian dollars when issued. The om10 was about 280 with the manual adaptor. Let's just say I sold a lot of om1s. OM4 ti was a jewel
recently got the OM-40. Best decision I've ever made. Also got a 28-75 mm and 70-210 mm lens. I've always wanted an Olympus and i'm so happy i got one finally
Rae- trust me: ditch the zooms and find a Zuiko 24mm, 35 2.0 or 2.8, or 85. Of course, depends on what you want to shoot. Nevertheless, the primes made back then are waaaaay better than the zooms. The Oly zooms were consumer grade and not that good.
All in all, a very nice review. At 3:15, the increasingly askew shutter bar suggests that the upper string of your first curtain has jumped off it's roller. Can be easily corrected during repair, but not worth the effort unless there is more to be done. By appearance, the earliest models of the OM-1 had no MD cap opening on the bottom, followed by the OM-1MD which accepted Winders and Motor Drives, then the OM-1n, the last, improved version. (The removable shoe was at the request of professional photographers who objected to sharp angular objects immediately beside the photographer's eye, as were the more rounded operational controls of the "N" models -- fingers found the sharp rewind release, wind lever, etc., somewhat injurious.) There are plastic parts within that grow more brittle year by year, so all things being equal, the newest models, the N's, are likely your best bet. Just to mention, to rewind the film, most cameras of this era had a button in the bottom that had to be pressed, while the early OM's had a knob on the front that had to be rotated, on the face of the camera just below the release button. And care should be taken to turn the rewind knob clockwise ONLY to rewind the film -- turning anti-clockwise will either unscrew the rewind knob (1, 2, etc.) or damage the rewind shaft and/or film (10, 20, etc.). Finally, the flash sync switch around the PC flash plug will set most models of the 1 and 2 for either "X" (strobe flash) sync, or "FP", (focal plane flash bulb) sync. The FP setting was, again, desired by some professional photographers who preferred using flash bulbs rather than strobe flash. If the camera is accidentally set for "FP" when using strobe flash, it will appear that there was no flash at all. Also, remember the fastest speed that can be used with strobe flash with these models is 1/60th second -- faster settings will "catch" one of the curtains in the focal aperture, exposing only a portion of the image to the flash when it fires.
Glad you enjoyed the review, and thanks for the info. Plastics in old cameras could grow brittle with age I guess, but up to now they seem to be holding up... I would think new parts could be 3d printed at home as the technology becomes more available?
I got two om1 recently from my father in law. Since I like my EOS film camera to work with I was thinking too sell the om1s. Now I think to keep them and pass to my children. For memory or even shoot if they would be interested.
I am lucky enough to have three of them at home, two of them belonging to me and one of them belonging to my dad. I Have recently managed to get my dad's OM-10 working and it is fully functional. I also have the manual adapter. I only paid £40.00 for one of my OM-10's and the other one was kindly given to me by someone that lives on my road along with a zoom lens and a camera case.
Always had a soft spot for the OM series before I switched to Nikon as it was army issued I owed all of them I regret selling them started to pick up a couple again great reviews thanks
I had a black Om2n. The best Olympus slr ime. I am old now and can't see to focus very well, so I use the best point and shoot Olympus, the Af1 with the really sharp 35mm 2.8 lens.
Enjoyed video. I own and useOM 1n + OM10 cameras and can vouch for their quality and simplicity, so light in the hand ! The Zuiko lenses I have are superb along with other OM series 3rd party lenses such as Vivitar etc. Thanks again for your inspirational style!
I only use digital SLRs, times have moved on, such as my trusty Nikon D800 I've had for years. However I have my personal 35mm SLR museum, including Olympus Om2n, Om40, Om10, Om20 and Om10 in black, with selection of lenses. I also have a Pentax Super A, ME super, Nikon FG, Ricoh KR10 super, Praktica BX20, and a selection fo autofocus SLRs such as Minotla 7000, 7xi, 700si, Dynax 5. All in good condition and very usable. My favorite Olympus is the Om2n, well built, and TTL flash. However the Praktica BX20 also has TTL flash, and is better specified! The Pentax Super A is also a nice camera, with TTL flash and 1/2000 top shutter speed.
I've got a feeling my Minolta XD11 which cost me £23.45 from eBay with a Rokkor 50mm f1:1.7 lens, would give the Olympus OM a run for its money. It took me about 25 hours, (Mirror cage strip bare, clean oil and grease of the mechanicals and one or two electrical faults) to get the mirror release to work, but wow! I love it.
During the late 1970's the prospect of using Olympus cameras was very appealing; I came that close to getting an OM 1 but instead opting for the Nikon FM, eventually. Largely through wishful thinking possibly I tried to get by mostly through available light photography. The OM 10 was too 'Automatic' and the OM 2 had off the film plane metering, something which phased me out a lot. So I ended up first with the Praktica and then the FM- both really good cameras. Talking with others then and since, I think that the OM 1 was a very fine camera for my requirements as well as the Pentax MX.
The OM1 in my view has the advantage over the FM because it's smaller, hence my preference for it - but the FM is an outstanding camera too, which, strangely, I found that bit easier to use, a very natural experience!
@@zenography7923 Someone told me that we all see each image differently, conditioned by our experience and persona to expect and look for slightly different things. Just by watching your uploads on Soviet kit, I could have achieved it all with a Zenit E. I could clearly see the step-up in quality/ usability with the Big 4 Japanese manufacturers; I would have been well served by each, as well as Konica, Fujica and others I cannot recall. Thanks for the uploads.
The OM-1 was the second serious SLR I bought. I now have an OM-10, OM-G, and OM-PC. That and all my A series Canons, a bunch of Pentax, and Ricohs. Adictive is a nice way of expressing it.
Watch out because the photographers and owners break down way more than the cameras 📷 and plastics. I know based on my observations that most owners are already dead and that's concerning. The plastics lasted longer than the photographers. The camera lives on and the ego monsters think they're going to live longer than the plastics. I can assure you that the cameras have nothing to worry about and the ego monsters making videos need to realise THEY'RE the products that are failing at an alarming rate.
You can lock up the mirror OM10 well sort of, when you take a photo while using the self timer it will lift the mirror at the start of the timed cycle.
5:20 Uh-oh. Sorry to interrupt. There are two single-digit lines ; one is purely mechanical (OM-1, OM-1n, OM-3 and OM-3Ti). This other has an electro-mechanical shutter (OM-2, 2n, 4, 4Ti). The shutters are completely different. All odd single-digit OMs will work without a battery (no meter, obviously), while the even numbers require a battery to operate. To my knowledge, all consumer grade bodies have an electronic shutter and require batteries. You also forgot the OM-2SP which is a bit of an oddball, being somewhat single-digit consumer-grade but with spot metering and program mode, and the short-lived Cosina made OM-2000 (not an Olympus but OM-mount). Lastly, a warning before you buy : On older models (1 and 2s, mostly), there's a foam pad glued on top of the pentaprism beneath the top cover. This will turn to goo like any other rubbery substance over 50 years old. But in this case, the result is dire as the foam rot will eat through the pentaprism silver coating and show in the viewfinder as a line in the bottom 1/3rd of the picture. If you have an intact body, check the foam has already been removed. If your camera shows signs of damage already, remove the goo asap to stop the process. There's no cure except swapping the prism which is complicated. Good news though, OM-1 and OM-10 prisms are identical and there was never foam put on top of the prism in a 10, so you can sacrifice a consumer body to save your 1. But it's a difficult repair best left to a pro and there are less and less techs trained on those old cameras.
Thanks for your informed comments! I've found the prism swap from an OM10 to an OM1/2 to be fairly straightforward though, and I'm not particularly experienced in camera repair...
@@zenography7923 : it depends on your OM-1 ; the early ones (pre-MD or converted ones) had a bracket made of 4 springs to hold the prism in place. This one is difficult to replace because you need to secure the screws under tension, and you can rip the coating of the prism with the screwdriver or damage the tiny meter underneath. The later models with a metal leaf spring bracket are easier to swap.
they certainly are amazing cameras. I have two OM-1's, one for parts and another I had to take apart to fix. I also have the amazing om-4 and I often struggle to choose witch one I want to put film in.
Lovely video. I've owned the OM-1, but upgraded to the OM-2n for the better battery flexibility. Just recently bagged an OM10 in mint condition with an unused 28mm f3.5 and the 50mm f1.8 and a zoom lens (name escapes me, not a standard Zuiko)...... everything boxed, all for £30!!!! So lucky. A very good camera system.
I was told the OM 2s was designed like an om4. But i find the lcd meter screen is hard to see and use thus auto mode is prefered. It also uses batteries quickly even when off.
Great cameras, really good glass. Om2n is probably the most reliable. If you get one used especially an om1, your going to have to clean up the old light seals. They get gooey after 40 years and will etch the coating on the prism. It's easy to do on an om1. Om2's don't have the crap foam on top of the prism so you don't hav e to worry about it
I did have an OM2 recently in which the light seals round the prism had deteriorated and damaged the prism - the exception that proves the rule perhaps?
Great video, really helpful.I am thinking of buying an OM-1 which will be my first film camera. It is so nice and I think for me it's the best 35mm film camera and the way it looks....
Great information. Thank you! I see you are demonstrating in this video with an OM-2N...You should make a video explaining the differences betw. the OM-1 and OM-1N and OM-2 and OM-2N they are different cameras internally.
Same here but I never got an OM-2n new. What a shame. Went all the way to The big Jessops in Leicester and they were out of stock. The black version was in stock but 40 quid more! So The next week after I got over a broken heart, I got an OM10 and a Sigma 80-200 zoom.
Someone at Olympus UK posted me the whole set of OM system literature around 1981 or 1982. When I opened the package, Soft Cell's Say Hello Wave Goodbye was on the radio. I still have those brochures. The OTF metering and the silicon cells were ultra modern on the OM2 even though it's almost identical to the more old fashioned mechanical OM1. Gorgeous designs by Mr Maitani. The OM10 was lovely too and the manual adaptor gave you almost an OM2 on the cheap, with an LED display too! I wish I had never sold my OM10. if anything my OM10 was the quietest film SLR I ever heard.
Still got my om2n still perfect after years of use got the 5 frames motor wind on it film was eaten at such a rate got a bit expensive but made a great grip to carry it with got it out for the first time since the nineties want to get some authentic looking b/w about the 1960s [ nice video thanks].
Hi Zenography, today arrived the parcel of another very nice camera: A Porst CR-1, which is a rebranded Fujica STX-1 and a Porst 1.6/50mm, which is also a rebranded Fujinon 1.6/50mm, both in pristine condition. Really also a very well made camera from the old days. You won’t regret it checking such a camera out. If you have one, please let me know. Best wishes, Ralf
Thanks for the video, but what if I asked you to choose one or two other Olympus cameras for me, combining mechanical and electrical features and many necessary specifications, knowing that I have the OM10? Thanks
Happy with my OM2. So well made, solid. And it looks like new. I have a question. What is a difference between 28 mm H. Zuiko and 28 mm E.Zuiko ? Think both are 2.8f.
Really nice review! I would like to get the Olympus OM-1N, what battery do you suggest I buy, I heard the original one is no longer available. Thanks, regards!
I used OM cameras for work throughout the 90s. I've owned them all and would offer the following: The removeable hotshoe was a daft idea and a real liability. Replacements were cheap and plentiful back in the day, but today... The plastics and cords on Oly equipment are not up to Nikon standards- and these components have only aged. The OM-1s simplicity is a virtue in terms of reliability. The Auto exposure on the OMS was notoriously unreliable- steer clear of that model. The OM-3 is quite rare, but high quality- snap one up if you see one. Without hesitation- the model you want is the OM-4T. Brilliant multiple spot metering system that works very well. As true with many manufacturers back then- the primes were quite good, but the zooms were universally mediocre. Macro lenses were excellent, but may be a bit hard to find. Vivitar made a series one 105 macro with an Oly mount that was huuuuge, but superb. Decent condition, working Oly flashes are harder to find than the bodies and will be expensive.
Thanks for the info - you clearly have considerable knowledge of these cameras. The removable hotshoes are delicate - not helped by the way plastics age! As for the OM 3 and 4, I've heard they're excellent but have never used one. Thanks for watching!
@@zenography7923 - Trust me: buy a 4T! The unique feature is a multiple point spot meter system. You point the center spot at whichever items you want to meter and press the button for each. It will average up to eight spots. Another technique would be to use this feature to zap neutrals in a scene (green grass). It's intuitive and very fast.
I use 1.5 volt batteries and decrease the exposure slightly to compensate. However, you can buy a battery called a Wien Cell - they give the correct voltage but don't last too long, apparently. You can also have the camera adjusted to run correctly at 1.5 volts too.
I have an unusual question... I always wanted to get an original Olympus M-1, made before Leica forced Olympus to change the series name to OM System. I am considering one now, however, the serial number on it is 2xx,xxx. I thought that Olympus started the production of M-1 with 100,000 and only made about 52,000 before switching the name to OM-1. I also heard that there are a number of fakes with M-1 top plate fitted on OM-1. Does anyone know the serial number range for the original Olympus M-1?
Beware when using the OM1, the shutter at 1/1000 and 1/500 gives overexposure ! The OM2 has an eletronic controlled shutter, the OM1 full mecanic shutter, so OM1 and OM2 has NOT the same shutter. There are also OM2 Spot.
The OM-2S has a deservedly bad reputation. Steer clear. If your manual OM-1 is over exposing at 1/500 and 1/1000, that means you need a tear down and lube. The upper shutter speeds will drag when the lube gets old/thick.
Very lovely video! I currently have an OMD camera and thinking about buying my first film Olympus. Do you know if my current MFT lenses (which are digital) would work on it?
I still have the Olympus OM-2 S/P, the last camera my dad bought me, back in the age of film. Unfortunately t doesn't run smoothly as it used to; i used and abused it like there's no tomorrow. Now I might get OM-4 or OM-4Ti course my eyesight is also not ai it used to be - those cameras are a rare example of in-body diopter film cameras. YeaH, OM-3 / OM-3Ti has that too, but that's out of my price league...
My OM1 has a problem. When it is in focus on my viewfinder it is not in focus on the film. It is really strange because the camera seems perfect. What do you think? A mirror inclination incorrect? A screen problem?
Surprised you don't mention the OM3 and OM4's. Having owned & used all of the line-up, in my opinion, the 3 (manual only) & 4 were the pinnacle of the OM series, though would recommend the TI version of the 4, as the earlier 4's suffered from battery drain. As for being the most beautiful and best........Spot-on!
A question! I've heard many rumors of the digital data on the removal memory cards being "accidentally" erased and an entire days work just gone! I have no idea how often this happens but, understanding some of the physics involved, I can imagine many different situations when that can happen.
@@zenography7923 thank you very helpfull. Now i can put film in camrea and see what happens. There us to be a camrea shop in liverpool sampsons of bold street. That was great for film uesd camreas and developeing . all that was needed was a snack coffie bar. While you wait for your film or even develope your own film.
I bought an OM2 but could never take a good photo so I moved on to a Konica. So upsetting the OM2 was so so beautiful - I don't give advice but I ended up using a hand held light meter.
I’m trying to buy my first OM camera between both 1 & 2 and I don’t know how to make sure I get the right camera on eBay with the best bang for my buck. If anyone can help
I'd go for the OM2. It has an auto exposure mode as well as manual, and it's not so complex as the later OM cameras. If the seller says it's in good order, you can return it if it's not. With any camera of this age you'll probably need to replace the light seals (a simple and inexpensive job), so check that's been done if you don't want to tackle it yourself. Hope that helps!
Each is as good as the other, in my view. The OM1n has a number of detailed differences you can read up on here: www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/om1/index.htm
Hi! I’m trying to decide between the om2n and om4ti... what has been your experience? I’m an increasingly-capable pro-sumer relatively new to film over digital. I want to sell my OMD EM5ii to get one of these two and another lovely om-system lens to go with my 50/1.8
These cameras are like fine watches compared to a Canon F1n or a Nikon F3 which are built like tanks. If you drop an OM1 you can easily damage the light meter rendering it a sunny 16 only camera. OM2 spot program is often overlooked, and cheap usually. Some of these suffer from crappy battery life and some like to jam up. The winding mechanism skips and jams requiring you to take the bottom off and reset the cam, easy to do but is annoying. OM4 and OM3 rock, best metering system of all manual slr's except maybe contax. If you get an om2sp, om3 or om4, buy a whole case of 357 batteries. If you get an om2n 1 battery will last like 10 years.
I do love the OM cameras, there's just something about them that the others, while very competent, seem to lack. Their small size is a big factor for me, as well as that feeling of beautiful engineering.
They're very similar, but the OM1n has a couple of differences. This from Wikipaedia: "The OM-1n is similar to the OM-1MD, with a redesigned film advance lever, a flash ready/sufficient flash LED in the viewfinder, and automatic flash synchronization (X-sync), regardless of the position of the FP/X switch when used with a T-series flash unit mounted on Flash Shoe 4." I hope that helps!
You're looking at this with dreamy romantic perspective but you'd be very wrong to do that. You've also got to realise it's NOT the plastics that fail, it's the photographer that breaks down and dies. The cameras are still going with minimal problems but the original owners are mostly breaking down and require heart and knee operations and such things and by now most of them are DEAD. It's ludicrous to talk like the camera is breaking down but the owner / photographer lives on without damage or failures. No, no, you're very mistaken and horribly WRONG. The fact is, the cameras 📷 are surviving really WELL when compared with the photographers. Photographers break down and the original owners are mostly broken and not repairable and we've put them into the grave. The camera says You're terrible at your camera gossip and you should look at yourself instead
I would not recommend having flashing lights as the very first thing at the beginning of you videos!! It poses such a large safety risk to those with epilepsy!
@@melvinch I hold close to my T90 even babying it to death because of the notorious mechanical problems many now face today but whenever I use it there's something special about its multi-modes, metering systems and the awesome ergonomics that draws me back to it. The F-1 on the other hand can literally survive a warzone, it's a TANK. The F-1 would easily outlast me with its mechanical engineering and solidarity.
I have an OM10, that always worked, but remained off and not used for many years .. I changed the batteries after many years, but when I switch on, nothings happens. Battery not detected .. no oxidation and batteries are new. Mechanical parts are ok. Any idea or suggestions? Thanks
That's a tricky one. If you're sure the batteries are good but the camera remains dead, it sounds like it's not getting any power at all, which could well be a simple connection issue. On the OM1 and 2 cameras, removing the bottom cover often reveals a broken wire from the battery compartment that needs re-soldering - it's worth a look to see if you have that fault.
The OM-1 was my first serious camera I bought (1979), and I still regret selling today. I had 28, 50 and 135 mm lenses. Thanks for reminding me of good times with it.
I had an OM-1 first (1976) and then I got the OM-2 when it came out, the greatest feature of that Camera (OM-2) was the Micro Processor driven Off - The - Film (OTF) Exposure system, where the Metering System read the light off of the Reflex Mirror like ALL the 35MM Cameras did, but then it took another reading off of the Shutter Curtain which had a Center Weighted Black and White Matrix Printed on it with 2 CCD's Pointed at the curtain and when the Mirror raised up, the CCD's read the light hitting the curtain and then pulsed again and read the Light actually hitting the Film as the shutter opened, this was the BEST System when used with the Olympus 310 Flash Unit...this was the FIRST Active Exposure System, FOOL Proof Flash photography....I made a small fortune shooting Wedding Photography back in the late 70's early 80's with that OM-2 and the 310 Flash. I still have the OM-2
And the fortune too, I hope!
@@zenography7923 The Photography lead me to a "New Career" and I did retire at 40, so I did all right. 8^)
A very clear, well described summary of the OM series. I have owned the OM-1 and OM-2N for some years now. They are my favourite film cameras. This will become a 'go to' video for many., I'm sure. Thank you.
And thank you, glad you enjoyed it!
Which one would you choose if you could just pick one?
Thanks to you I bought an OM-1, for a very good price, and I will tell all, I love this camera for it's simplicity.
It's a beautiful little thing - simple, pure, just delightful. Enjoy!
I bought my first SLR over 30 years ago, a refurbished OM-10. I still have it and recently had it serviced. I bought a refurbished OM-1 a few years ago. I much prefer these film cameras over the absolute clutter jungle of these digital cameras.
I enjoy both, but I do love coming back to my film cameras from time to time!
My first real camera was a used OM-1 which I bought used in 1977 for $200 with a 50mm 1.8. You said it at the top of the video: it was a little jewel! I made the move to digital in 2007 and gave my camera away a few years ago. If I thought I would use film again, I would never have let it go. Cheers!
If you want to give film another try, these cameras are a great way of doing it! Go on, you know you want to...
In 2020 the OM2N with the OTF metering and lenes is unstoppable even today. I shoot slides and remain impressed today.
I had an OM1…. one of the best cameras ever made. With a PRIME lenses,(I had 24mm, 85mm, and 50mm… all Olympus own). My photography tutor could not believe my photos were from a 35mm camera, he was convinced they were from a medium format camera. I can honestly recommend this camera to anyone who wants to try FILM. Excellent.
I also had an OM2 N… but I started with the OM10, then advanced to the OM1 and OM2 N.
Well, you forgot to mention the amazing metering system of the OM-2. It also measures while exposure, and very important for long exposures.
I got my first OM1 (black body) in the mid 1970s, and it was love at first sight. I primarily used it for shooting surfing, when I lived in Australia, as well as occasional rock concerts (I still shoot music nowadays). When I went travelling around Asia it went with me, along with a 24mm f/2.8, the 50mm and a 75-150mm zoom. The body died a while back - too much time at beaches and too many trips to the humidity of India finally took their toll. I still have that original 24mm. But I bought more OMs. At one point I would always carry two bodies, one with colour film and the other with black and white. My current line-up is three OM1 bodies, an OM2, OM2 spot/program (black), an OM10 (which I gave to my son), and an OM40. My Zuiko lenses are the aforementioned 24mm, 28mm f/2.8, 35mm f/2.8, 3x50mm f/1.8, 135mm f/3.5, 180mm f/2.8, 35-70mm f/4, 35-105mm f/3.5, 75-150mm f/4, plus a Soligar 500mm f/8 mirror lens. Accessories are 2 x Winder2 motors, T32 flash, Quick Auto 310 flash and two Olympus camera bags, one big and one small. I may have a problem.
The things that I like about the cameras that weren't mentioned are the size and brightness of the viewfinders that make focussing a breeze, and the fact that most of the lenses take a 49mm filter. The OM1 is still my favourite because it is completely mechanical and manual. As they only take mercury batteries that are no longer available - although there are modifications and alternative batteries - they still work perfectly without the battery, and there are plenty of lightmeter apps for phones to get an exposure reading, so you don't need to carry an extra external meter. As innovative as Olympus digital cameras are they don't have the same feel as the original OM cameras, so for me it's Canon for digital, but always Olympus for 35mm analogue, because they are still arguably the best SLRs ever made.
Agreed, beautiful little cameras. And yes, it's possible you do have a problem - but it takes one to know one!
Olympus are the best. Small and light. I've got the OM1, OM2 and OM20. Lenses are wonderful and they have given me image quality like a medium format camera.
Something worth adding is the fact that on a good example OM1 or 2, you will experience a silky smooth film advance mechanism. Much smoother than that found on Nikon or Canon models of the same era, it was compared favourably to Leica. Another lovely ergonomic touch is the larger than normal rewind crank, just a little feature but one that adds to the tactile nature of using any film camera.
I've owned virtually every OM camera and many Nikons. Nothing- absolutely nothing- compares to the gear train and vertical metal leaf shutter on an F-2. Their corded accessories are far superior to Oly. I currently own three Oly digital SLRs, so I'm not a hater.
Also, the shutter sound is so light compared to so many contemporary SLRs
I have wanted an OM-1 since I was a kid, it took me a while, but I managed to pick up an OM-1 and an OM-2 with a couple of lenses in 2019. I too took a little time getting used to them, but I soon got the hang of them. A childhood dream finally realised and I am reall enjoying using them.
Wonderful little machines, glad you've finally met up with them!
You missed some very big points, one being the OM-2 is battery dependent (unlike the OM-1). It (OM2) offers OTF metering, if I'm not mistaken, the first to market with the feature AND it utilized "matrix" metering (you can see the 'pattern' when you raise the mirror. It also offered TTL Flash, which was huge for the time. The OM-10 (OM-G) was such a drop in quality, relatively speaking, I don't think I ever sold one. At the time, it was comparable to the Pentax ME and Minolta XG-1.
Thanks for filling in the gaps!
I very fine review, I'll add a few thoughts of my own.
My first camera that I bought with my own money was an OM-2n, in 1978 if I remember correctly. Since then, I've acquired the OM-1, OM-3, and OM-4.
All of them are the best handling cameras I've ever used. Period. The location of the shutter speed, aperture, and focusing rings close to each other provide excellent ergonomics and is the key to the svelte handling. After I got used to the system, I couldn't go back to the borrowed Canon or Nikon SLRs of my parents.
My thoughts on these cameras:
OM-1: A true expedition camera when you're out in the rough for weeks and electricity is unavailable. It has a battery to run the light meter, but is not necessary for the shutter to operate. If your battery should die (and like me, you didn't bring a spare), simply load negative film and use the Sunny 16 Rule. Has mirror lock up.
OM-2: Off-The-Film metering is excellent for auto-flash and extended auto exposures of 2 minutes and beyond. A semi-expedition camera, if the battery fails it has a mechanical 1/60 shutter speed. Using the timer causes the mirror to flip up a few seconds before shutter release, giving the equivalent of mirror lock up.
OM-3: Similar to the OM-1 (mechanical shutter) but with upgraded and excellent spot meter system. Best in-camera metering system I've ever encountered for precise exposures, fantastic for slide film.
No mirror lock up.
OM-4: Similar to the OM-2 (including the 1/60 emergency mechanical shutter) but with upgraded and excellent spot meter system. Best in-camera metering system I've ever encountered for precise exposures, fantastic for slide film.
Unfortunately, the OM-3 and OM-4, which were supposed to be Olympus' pinnacle cameras, have a battery drain defect. If the two 1.5v silver oxide batteries are left in continuously, they will be drained in about 3 weeks (even when the camera is "off"). So they need to be removed when the camera is stored or not being used for the day.
While there is no clear winner here for me, overall I slightly favor the OM-2 for it's combination OFT metering, excellent battery life, and 1/60 mechanical shutter for emergency shooting (which came in handy a few times as being a short-on-money college student I always ran the batteries to the end).
I use my Olympus Zuiko lenses on my DSLRs with an adapter. They are gems.
Entirely agree with all you say - many thanks for your informed comments!
Now THAT'S a Buyer's Guide!
Scott G I was wondering if you can tell me about the recording quality of each, as someone trying to make movies and is looking for an affordable option it would be a great help
Olympus OM-1 is genial camera , statement from Olympus for all times. Its compact ,much compact than most of other bulky cameras bodies of its time and pure mechanical .It has exposure meter ,but its only exposure indicator,not automatic.Important tip,this camera exposure metering reqiures mercury elements with 1,36 volts,with modern 1,5 volts PX76 it made metering errors .
I should really have mentioned the battery issue. There is a Wien cell available that fits, and gives the right voltage. The alternative is to reduce exposure a little, to compensate for the slightly higher reading.
Hi Zenography, thanks for your introduction. I purchased an Olympus OM 10 and I‘m very happy with it and all the Zuiko vintage lenses. Cheers, Ralf
The OM10 is a very nice little camera indeed, and the best part is - it mounts all the Zuiko lenses! Hope you're enjoying yours...
Original om1 sold for 300 canadian dollars when issued. The om10 was about 280 with the manual adaptor. Let's just say I sold a lot of om1s. OM4 ti was a jewel
recently got the OM-40. Best decision I've ever made. Also got a 28-75 mm and 70-210 mm lens. I've always wanted an Olympus and i'm so happy i got one finally
Enjoy it, it's a great little camera!
Rae- trust me: ditch the zooms and find a Zuiko 24mm, 35 2.0 or 2.8, or 85. Of course, depends on what you want to shoot. Nevertheless, the primes made back then are waaaaay better than the zooms. The Oly zooms were consumer grade and not that good.
I have an OM2n and 2 OM20's I use, very similar and both great.
All in all, a very nice review.
At 3:15, the increasingly askew shutter bar suggests that the upper string of your first curtain has jumped off it's roller. Can be easily corrected during repair, but not worth the effort unless there is more to be done.
By appearance, the earliest models of the OM-1 had no MD cap opening on the bottom, followed by the OM-1MD which accepted Winders and Motor Drives, then the OM-1n, the last, improved version. (The removable shoe was at the request of professional photographers who objected to sharp angular objects immediately beside the photographer's eye, as were the more rounded operational controls of the "N" models -- fingers found the sharp rewind release, wind lever, etc., somewhat injurious.) There are plastic parts within that grow more brittle year by year, so all things being equal, the newest models, the N's, are likely your best bet.
Just to mention, to rewind the film, most cameras of this era had a button in the bottom that had to be pressed, while the early OM's had a knob on the front that had to be rotated, on the face of the camera just below the release button. And care should be taken to turn the rewind knob clockwise ONLY to rewind the film -- turning anti-clockwise will either unscrew the rewind knob (1, 2, etc.) or damage the rewind shaft and/or film (10, 20, etc.).
Finally, the flash sync switch around the PC flash plug will set most models of the 1 and 2 for either "X" (strobe flash) sync, or "FP", (focal plane flash bulb) sync. The FP setting was, again, desired by some professional photographers who preferred using flash bulbs rather than strobe flash. If the camera is accidentally set for "FP" when using strobe flash, it will appear that there was no flash at all. Also, remember the fastest speed that can be used with strobe flash with these models is 1/60th second -- faster settings will "catch" one of the curtains in the focal aperture, exposing only a portion of the image to the flash when it fires.
Glad you enjoyed the review, and thanks for the info. Plastics in old cameras could grow brittle with age I guess, but up to now they seem to be holding up... I would think new parts could be 3d printed at home as the technology becomes more available?
I got two om1 recently from my father in law. Since I like my EOS film camera to work with I was thinking too sell the om1s. Now I think to keep them and pass to my children. For memory or even shoot if they would be interested.
I am lucky enough to have three of them at home, two of them belonging to me and one of them belonging to my dad. I Have recently managed to get my dad's OM-10 working and it is fully functional. I also have the manual adapter. I only paid £40.00 for one of my OM-10's and the other one was kindly given to me by someone that lives on my road along with a zoom lens and a camera case.
Always had a soft spot for the OM series before I switched to Nikon as it was army issued I owed all of them I regret selling them started to pick up a couple again great reviews thanks
They're still lovely cameras if you like to shoot a bit of film - enjoy!
This was the first episode of Zenography I ever watched and I finally got an OM10 today!
OM-1 next?
It's a very nice little camera - I think you'll enjoy it, and an OM1 too!
I had a black Om2n. The best Olympus slr ime.
I am old now and can't see to focus very well, so I use the best point and shoot Olympus, the Af1 with the really sharp 35mm 2.8 lens.
I haven't tried that camera, although I've heard it's a nice one!
My first SLR was an OM-10 which I got in 1993. Now I have a couple of them and an OM-40.
Great little cameras!
Enjoyed video.
I own and useOM 1n + OM10 cameras and can vouch for their quality and simplicity, so light in the hand !
The Zuiko lenses I have are superb along with other OM series 3rd party lenses such as Vivitar etc.
Thanks again for your inspirational style!
Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
I can do a write up on how to clean up an OM1 if anyone wants.
Yes please
Mine has a tiny bit of rust forming on it, is there a way to remove that small bit off?
Yes please!
Ok give me a day or to to find my stuff.
I only use digital SLRs, times have moved on, such as my trusty Nikon D800 I've had for years. However I have my personal 35mm SLR museum, including Olympus Om2n, Om40, Om10, Om20 and Om10 in black, with selection of lenses. I also have a Pentax Super A, ME super, Nikon FG, Ricoh KR10 super, Praktica BX20, and a selection fo autofocus SLRs such as Minotla 7000, 7xi, 700si, Dynax 5. All in good condition and very usable. My favorite Olympus is the Om2n, well built, and TTL flash. However the Praktica BX20 also has TTL flash, and is better specified! The Pentax Super A is also a nice camera, with TTL flash and 1/2000 top shutter speed.
I've got a feeling my Minolta XD11 which cost me £23.45 from eBay with a Rokkor 50mm f1:1.7 lens, would give the Olympus OM a run for its money. It took me about 25 hours, (Mirror cage strip bare, clean oil and grease of the mechanicals and one or two electrical faults) to get the mirror release to work, but wow! I love it.
During the late 1970's the prospect of using Olympus cameras was very appealing; I came that close to getting an OM 1 but instead opting for the Nikon FM, eventually. Largely through wishful thinking possibly I tried to get by mostly through available light photography. The OM 10 was too 'Automatic' and the OM 2 had off the film plane metering, something which phased me out a lot. So I ended up first with the Praktica and then the FM- both really good cameras. Talking with others then and since, I think that the OM 1 was a very fine camera for my requirements as well as the Pentax MX.
The OM1 in my view has the advantage over the FM because it's smaller, hence my preference for it - but the FM is an outstanding camera too, which, strangely, I found that bit easier to use, a very natural experience!
@@zenography7923 Someone told me that we all see each image differently, conditioned by our experience and persona to expect and look for slightly different things. Just by watching your uploads on Soviet kit, I could have achieved it all with a Zenit E. I could clearly see the step-up in quality/ usability with the Big 4 Japanese manufacturers; I would have been well served by each, as well as Konica, Fujica and others I cannot recall. Thanks for the uploads.
Very nice cameras but a word of warning: They're slightly addictive :-) I now have the OM-1, OM-2 and OM-10.
The OM-1 was the second serious SLR I bought. I now have an OM-10, OM-G, and OM-PC. That and all my A series Canons, a bunch of Pentax, and Ricohs.
Adictive is a nice way of expressing it.
I might need to go to rehab...
@@zenography7923 I say no no no.
What one is better the m-10 or the m-1
Watch out because the photographers and owners break down way more than the cameras 📷 and plastics.
I know based on my observations that most owners are already dead and that's concerning.
The plastics lasted longer than the photographers.
The camera lives on and the ego monsters think they're going to live longer than the plastics.
I can assure you that the cameras have nothing to worry about and the ego monsters making videos need to realise THEY'RE the products that are failing at an alarming rate.
You can lock up the mirror OM10 well sort of, when you take a photo while using the self timer it will lift the mirror at the start of the timed cycle.
Thanks for the tip!
Excellent introduction to OM cameras. Helped me a lot. Cheers!
5:20 Uh-oh. Sorry to interrupt. There are two single-digit lines ; one is purely mechanical (OM-1, OM-1n, OM-3 and OM-3Ti). This other has an electro-mechanical shutter (OM-2, 2n, 4, 4Ti). The shutters are completely different. All odd single-digit OMs will work without a battery (no meter, obviously), while the even numbers require a battery to operate. To my knowledge, all consumer grade bodies have an electronic shutter and require batteries. You also forgot the OM-2SP which is a bit of an oddball, being somewhat single-digit consumer-grade but with spot metering and program mode, and the short-lived Cosina made OM-2000 (not an Olympus but OM-mount).
Lastly, a warning before you buy : On older models (1 and 2s, mostly), there's a foam pad glued on top of the pentaprism beneath the top cover. This will turn to goo like any other rubbery substance over 50 years old. But in this case, the result is dire as the foam rot will eat through the pentaprism silver coating and show in the viewfinder as a line in the bottom 1/3rd of the picture. If you have an intact body, check the foam has already been removed. If your camera shows signs of damage already, remove the goo asap to stop the process. There's no cure except swapping the prism which is complicated. Good news though, OM-1 and OM-10 prisms are identical and there was never foam put on top of the prism in a 10, so you can sacrifice a consumer body to save your 1. But it's a difficult repair best left to a pro and there are less and less techs trained on those old cameras.
Thanks for your informed comments! I've found the prism swap from an OM10 to an OM1/2 to be fairly straightforward though, and I'm not particularly experienced in camera repair...
@@zenography7923 : it depends on your OM-1 ; the early ones (pre-MD or converted ones) had a bracket made of 4 springs to hold the prism in place. This one is difficult to replace because you need to secure the screws under tension, and you can rip the coating of the prism with the screwdriver or damage the tiny meter underneath. The later models with a metal leaf spring bracket are easier to swap.
they certainly are amazing cameras. I have two OM-1's, one for parts and another I had to take apart to fix. I also have the amazing om-4 and I often struggle to choose witch one I want to put film in.
Lovely video. I've owned the OM-1, but upgraded to the OM-2n for the better battery flexibility. Just recently bagged an OM10 in mint condition with an unused 28mm f3.5 and the 50mm f1.8 and a zoom lens (name escapes me, not a standard Zuiko)...... everything boxed, all for £30!!!! So lucky. A very good camera system.
Wow, that OM10 and lenses was a lucky find!
I was told the OM 2s was designed like an om4. But i find the lcd meter screen is hard to see and use thus auto mode is prefered. It also uses batteries quickly even when off.
Great cameras, really good glass. Om2n is probably the most reliable. If you get one used especially an om1, your going to have to clean up the old light seals. They get gooey after 40 years and will etch the coating on the prism. It's easy to do on an om1. Om2's don't have the crap foam on top of the prism so you don't hav e to worry about it
I did have an OM2 recently in which the light seals round the prism had deteriorated and damaged the prism - the exception that proves the rule perhaps?
I have cleaned about 4 of the OM 2 n for the goo on the prisim area. 2 had prisim damage already
Great video, really helpful.I am thinking of buying an OM-1 which will be my first film camera. It is so nice and I think for me it's the best 35mm film camera and the way it looks....
Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Great information. Thank you! I see you are demonstrating in this video with an OM-2N...You should make a video explaining the differences betw. the OM-1 and OM-1N and OM-2 and OM-2N they are different cameras internally.
Thanks for the suggestion!
I agree wityh you . Nicest cameras I ever saw. A joy to look at. I haCW OM 2n and a OM 4 Ti. Might get an OM 40 shortly...Gret video.
Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Same here but I never got an OM-2n new. What a shame. Went all the way to The big Jessops in Leicester and they were out of stock. The black version was in stock but 40 quid more! So The next week after I got over a broken heart, I got an OM10 and a Sigma 80-200 zoom.
Someone at Olympus UK posted me the whole set of OM system literature around 1981 or 1982. When I opened the package, Soft Cell's Say Hello Wave Goodbye was on the radio. I still have those brochures. The OTF metering and the silicon cells were ultra modern on the OM2 even though it's almost identical to the more old fashioned mechanical OM1. Gorgeous designs by Mr Maitani. The OM10 was lovely too and the manual adaptor gave you almost an OM2 on the cheap, with an LED display too! I wish I had never sold my OM10. if anything my OM10 was the quietest film SLR I ever heard.
I have all the OM one digit in my collection and my 2 favorites are the OM-1 and the OM-4, I love the others too but not as those ones.
That sounds like a fantastic collection - enjoy!
Still got my om2n still perfect after years of use got the 5 frames motor wind on it film was eaten at such a rate got a bit expensive but made a great grip to carry it with got it out for the first time since the nineties want to get some authentic looking b/w about the 1960s [ nice video thanks].
That OM2n sounds nice, and deserves to be used! If it's been in storage for a while, replace the light seals for maximum reliability though!
Hi Zenography, today arrived the parcel of another very nice camera: A Porst CR-1, which is a rebranded Fujica STX-1 and a Porst 1.6/50mm, which is also a rebranded Fujinon 1.6/50mm, both in pristine condition. Really also a very well made camera from the old days. You won’t regret it checking such a camera out. If you have one, please let me know. Best wishes, Ralf
Hi Ralf - I don't have this camera, but would love to try it out...
Zenography Maybe in the future I’ll visit UK again, then we could get in touch and I‘ll show you this camera at a visit.
Thanks for the video, but what if I asked you to choose one or two other Olympus cameras for me, combining mechanical and electrical features and many necessary specifications, knowing that I have the OM10?
Thanks
Happy with my OM2. So well made, solid. And it looks like new. I have a question. What is a difference between 28 mm H. Zuiko and 28 mm E.Zuiko ? Think both are 2.8f.
The best camera (om1 and omn2) ever made...imho
It's hard to think of better!
Really nice review! I would like to get the Olympus OM-1N, what battery do you suggest I buy, I heard the original one is no longer available. Thanks, regards!
I used OM cameras for work throughout the 90s. I've owned them all and would offer the following: The removeable hotshoe was a daft idea and a real liability. Replacements were cheap and plentiful back in the day, but today... The plastics and cords on Oly equipment are not up to Nikon standards- and these components have only aged. The OM-1s simplicity is a virtue in terms of reliability. The Auto exposure on the OMS was notoriously unreliable- steer clear of that model. The OM-3 is quite rare, but high quality- snap one up if you see one. Without hesitation- the model you want is the OM-4T. Brilliant multiple spot metering system that works very well. As true with many manufacturers back then- the primes were quite good, but the zooms were universally mediocre. Macro lenses were excellent, but may be a bit hard to find. Vivitar made a series one 105 macro with an Oly mount that was huuuuge, but superb. Decent condition, working Oly flashes are harder to find than the bodies and will be expensive.
Thanks for the info - you clearly have considerable knowledge of these cameras. The removable hotshoes are delicate - not helped by the way plastics age! As for the OM 3 and 4, I've heard they're excellent but have never used one. Thanks for watching!
@@zenography7923 - Trust me: buy a 4T! The unique feature is a multiple point spot meter system. You point the center spot at whichever items you want to meter and press the button for each. It will average up to eight spots. Another technique would be to use this feature to zap neutrals in a scene (green grass). It's intuitive and very fast.
Great video and...great pictures! One question: how do you cope with the obsolete 1.35 v mercury batteries? Thanks.
I use 1.5 volt batteries and decrease the exposure slightly to compensate. However, you can buy a battery called a Wien Cell - they give the correct voltage but don't last too long, apparently. You can also have the camera adjusted to run correctly at 1.5 volts too.
@@zenography7923 Thanks!
Thanks to your video in this difficult moments! Grettings!
And thank you for watching!
I have an unusual question... I always wanted to get an original Olympus M-1, made before Leica forced Olympus to change the series name to OM System. I am considering one now, however, the serial number on it is 2xx,xxx. I thought that Olympus started the production of M-1 with 100,000 and only made about 52,000 before switching the name to OM-1. I also heard that there are a number of fakes with M-1 top plate fitted on OM-1. Does anyone know the serial number range for the original Olympus M-1?
thanks for this good video, as usually ;) , have a good day Nigel.
Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Beware when using the OM1, the shutter at 1/1000 and 1/500 gives overexposure ! The OM2 has an eletronic controlled shutter, the OM1 full mecanic shutter, so OM1 and OM2 has NOT the same shutter. There are also OM2 Spot.
The OM-2S has a deservedly bad reputation. Steer clear. If your manual OM-1 is over exposing at 1/500 and 1/1000, that means you need a tear down and lube. The upper shutter speeds will drag when the lube gets old/thick.
Very lovely video! I currently have an OMD camera and thinking about buying my first film Olympus. Do you know if my current MFT lenses (which are digital) would work on it?
Unfortunately not - they wouldn't mount, and even if they did, they wouldn't fully cover the film!
I still have the Olympus OM-2 S/P, the last camera my dad bought me, back in the age of film. Unfortunately t doesn't run smoothly as it used to; i used and abused it like there's no tomorrow. Now I might get OM-4 or OM-4Ti course my eyesight is also not ai it used to be - those cameras are a rare example of in-body diopter film cameras. YeaH, OM-3 / OM-3Ti has that too, but that's out of my price league...
Mine too I'm afraid!
Pro tip: the Nikon EM diopters fit the whole OM series.
@@joeltunnah Thank you very much.
Fantastic review. Thanks!
My OM1 has a problem. When it is in focus on my viewfinder it is not in focus on the film. It is really strange because the camera seems perfect. What do you think? A mirror inclination incorrect? A screen problem?
Surprised you don't mention the OM3 and OM4's. Having owned & used all of the line-up, in my opinion, the 3 (manual only) & 4 were the pinnacle of the OM series, though would recommend the TI version of the 4, as the earlier 4's suffered from battery drain. As for being the most beautiful and best........Spot-on!
So what about an OM 4ti preferably at the right price.
Nigel?
Excellent information - thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I am 16 and I started shooting film with an Olympus OM10 my grandfather gave me for Christmas this year, really enjoy it.
I'm glad you're enjoying it - it's a lovely camera!
I had an OM1 but sold it becuase of the battery issue. Whats the solution now for replacement batteries?
There's a battery called a Wien cell available, perfect fit and the right voltage. I should have mentioned it!
I think the OM-10 has a kind of MLU when on self timer, the OM-2 doesn't.
Will have to buy one!
You won't regret it!
A question!
I've heard many rumors of the digital data on the removal memory cards being "accidentally" erased and an entire days work just gone!
I have no idea how often this happens but, understanding some of the physics involved, I can imagine many different situations when that can happen.
It can happen - but not with film!
Open the back when you forgot to rewind the film. Is one way to ruin the day
I have 3 cameras. an OM3, Leica M4 and Pen FV. As much as I love my OM there is nothing cooler than a Pen F
They certainly are cool!
Is that the famous half frame camera? Does my memory serve me right?
@@dezmondwhitney1208 it sure does
How do you like the half frame format?
I have a olympus om 40 iam a bit confused with the DX iso auto set.knob. and the esp swich at side.? How do they work?
I haven't used an OM40 so I'm not sure, however the online manual is available here: www.butkus.org/chinon/olympus/olympus_om40/olympus_om40.htm
@@zenography7923 thank you very helpfull. Now i can put film in camrea and see what happens. There us to be a camrea shop in liverpool sampsons of bold street. That was great for film uesd camreas and developeing . all that was needed was a snack coffie bar. While you wait for your film or even develope your own film.
For 100€, what do you recommend buying, om20 or om30?
I bought an OM2 but could never take a good photo so I moved on to a Konica. So upsetting the OM2 was so so beautiful - I don't give advice but I ended up using a hand held light meter.
Early auto exposure systems do have their flaws, but I find it works well on my OM2. They are indeed a beautiful little camera!
I’m trying to buy my first OM camera between both 1 & 2 and I don’t know how to make sure I get the right camera on eBay with the best bang for my buck. If anyone can help
I'd go for the OM2. It has an auto exposure mode as well as manual, and it's not so complex as the later OM cameras. If the seller says it's in good order, you can return it if it's not. With any camera of this age you'll probably need to replace the light seals (a simple and inexpensive job), so check that's been done if you don't want to tackle it yourself. Hope that helps!
Hey. Is the OM-1n as good as the OM-1? Want to buy my first film camera.
Each is as good as the other, in my view. The OM1n has a number of detailed differences you can read up on here: www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/om1/index.htm
Olimpus Om2n is the best.!
Great video these are superb cameras,,, i have the om1,,om2n and the om4ti i use the om4ti mostly these days.
Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Hi! I’m trying to decide between the om2n and om4ti... what has been your experience? I’m an increasingly-capable pro-sumer relatively new to film over digital. I want to sell my OMD EM5ii to get one of these two and another lovely om-system lens to go with my 50/1.8
These cameras are like fine watches compared to a Canon F1n or a Nikon F3 which are built like tanks. If you drop an OM1 you can easily damage the light meter rendering it a sunny 16 only camera. OM2 spot program is often overlooked, and cheap usually. Some of these suffer from crappy battery life and some like to jam up. The winding mechanism skips and jams requiring you to take the bottom off and reset the cam, easy to do but is annoying. OM4 and OM3 rock, best metering system of all manual slr's except maybe contax. If you get an om2sp, om3 or om4, buy a whole case of 357 batteries. If you get an om2n 1 battery will last like 10 years.
I do love the OM cameras, there's just something about them that the others, while very competent, seem to lack. Their small size is a big factor for me, as well as that feeling of beautiful engineering.
what can you say about the om1n ?
the difference from om1?
They're very similar, but the OM1n has a couple of differences. This from Wikipaedia:
"The OM-1n is similar to the OM-1MD, with a redesigned film advance lever, a flash ready/sufficient flash LED in the viewfinder, and automatic flash synchronization (X-sync), regardless of the position of the FP/X switch when used with a T-series flash unit mounted on Flash Shoe 4."
I hope that helps!
@@zenography7923 Thanks!!
You're looking at this with dreamy romantic perspective but you'd be very wrong to do that.
You've also got to realise it's NOT the plastics that fail, it's the photographer that breaks down and dies.
The cameras are still going with minimal problems but the original owners are mostly breaking down and require heart and knee operations and such things and by now most of them are DEAD.
It's ludicrous to talk like the camera is breaking down but the owner / photographer lives on without damage or failures.
No, no, you're very mistaken and horribly WRONG.
The fact is, the cameras 📷 are surviving really WELL when compared with the photographers.
Photographers break down and the original owners are mostly broken and not repairable and we've put them into the grave.
The camera says You're terrible at your camera gossip and you should look at yourself instead
RIP Olympus cameras 2020.
I would not recommend having flashing lights as the very first thing at the beginning of you videos!! It poses such a large safety risk to those with epilepsy!
Thanks for mentioning this - I'm actually planning a new title shot right now.
Too bad a video about Canon FD cameras won't likely happen because they only made one good camera, the F-1.
Not one but two. The T-90 was a gem and the only camera in the world that supports spot metering even in TTL flash mode !
@@melvinch I hold close to my T90 even babying it to death because of the notorious mechanical problems many now face today but whenever I use it there's something special about its multi-modes, metering systems and the awesome ergonomics that draws me back to it. The F-1 on the other hand can literally survive a warzone, it's a TANK. The F-1 would easily outlast me with its mechanical engineering and solidarity.
Can’t deal with the ASMR …. Bruh
No problem friend!
"groovy" shutter button (10.32 mins) . Showing your age there bud... Lol..
I have an OM10, that always worked, but remained off and not used for many years .. I changed the batteries after many years, but when I switch on, nothings happens. Battery not detected .. no oxidation and batteries are new.
Mechanical parts are ok.
Any idea or suggestions?
Thanks
That's a tricky one. If you're sure the batteries are good but the camera remains dead, it sounds like it's not getting any power at all, which could well be a simple connection issue. On the OM1 and 2 cameras, removing the bottom cover often reveals a broken wire from the battery compartment that needs re-soldering - it's worth a look to see if you have that fault.
The OM 10 power switch has a weak design and breaks internally thus losing contact. You need to remove the top and can glue the contacts back.