I probably would have reversed the red wires to the switch so I can see the switch when the lights are off. That little LED isn't really going to eat up much battery power being on when there is power being provided to the back. Also the LED in the switch being lit is a good indication that the lights will turn on when you throw the switch so you know if the accessory power has timed out or not.
The butt connector you used to put the wires together, when you used the lighter it activated the heat shrink but the solder inside didn’t melt. Your connection is essentially just twisted together and held in place with the heat shrink….. you have to heat that solder up so it melts to give you a soldered connection. Just letting you know. Great video, thanks for the info.
Why would you not use a pigtail that plugs into the factory wiring instead of crappy splice connectors? That's the whole reason that connector is there...DIY projects!
Great job, but I noticed that you were running wires in and through cutouts in the sheet metal. It didn’t look sharp and all surfaces were painted, but is it possible that the insulation will get worn through and short out? The factory always covers wiring with corrugated plastic tubing or electrical tape. I am not criticizing, I am just trying to learn from your awesome videos. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences. It is safer that it’s not run directly to the battery just in case a wire gets shorted.
the factory power is only hot when the ignition is on and car running. sucks when you get out of the car after shutting it off to get things out of the bed and there is no light
Hey, how are you?, I live in Argentina, unfortunately I can’t get those Lasfit lamps, I was wondering if you could tell me if cargo lights really require can bus, because I’m about to purchase an OSRAM w16w, which seems to be awesome also. I just don’t want to get a warning alert in the dashboard of burnt lamp. Thanks for your content, have a great day
Did the xl not come with the adapter for the power outlets in the bed? I know my lariat came with 2 of them. Or was it easier for you to splice into the power instead?
He hasn't responded yet, so I'll chime in with my guess. ;-) He probably tapped off of the wires to leave that connector free for his future add-on for that panel that the switch is in.
@@icecowboy9 I have a cubby on the right side. On the left side I have the inverter, bed light, and bed light switch. Trying to figure out how to tie these lights to that existing bed light switch
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That sneeze all over you was my favorite part!
I probably would have reversed the red wires to the switch so I can see the switch when the lights are off. That little LED isn't really going to eat up much battery power being on when there is power being provided to the back. Also the LED in the switch being lit is a good indication that the lights will turn on when you throw the switch so you know if the accessory power has timed out or not.
The butt connector you used to put the wires together, when you used the lighter it activated the heat shrink but the solder inside didn’t melt. Your connection is essentially just twisted together and held in place with the heat shrink….. you have to heat that solder up so it melts to give you a soldered connection. Just letting you know. Great video, thanks for the info.
love these vids man, giving me a lot of ideas, I love it!
good job
love it! i wanna cop!!!
Why would you not use a pigtail that plugs into the factory wiring instead of crappy splice connectors? That's the whole reason that connector is there...DIY projects!
Holy crap I spent like 15 minutes trying to remove those tail lights. How does yours pop out so easy lol
Great job, but I noticed that you were running wires in and through cutouts in the sheet metal. It didn’t look sharp and all surfaces were painted, but is it possible that the insulation will get worn through and short out? The factory always covers wiring with corrugated plastic tubing or electrical tape. I am not criticizing, I am just trying to learn from your awesome videos. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences. It is safer that it’s not run directly to the battery just in case a wire gets shorted.
Yes we had the same thought, we are going to go back and add some protection to the wire in those areas.
@@2RandomScrubs You’re an awesome dude, I don’t like posting anything that’s negative because some people get really pissed off.
Need to buy the back seat garbage box
Are you guys still selling the parts you were making? Thanks for the videos good information!
the factory power is only hot when the ignition is on and car running. sucks when you get out of the car after shutting it off to get things out of the bed and there is no light
Hey, how are you?, I live in Argentina, unfortunately I can’t get those Lasfit lamps, I was wondering if you could tell me if cargo lights really require can bus, because I’m about to purchase an OSRAM w16w, which seems to be awesome also. I just don’t want to get a warning alert in the dashboard of burnt lamp. Thanks for your content, have a great day
Did the xl not come with the adapter for the power outlets in the bed? I know my lariat came with 2 of them. Or was it easier for you to splice into the power instead?
He hasn't responded yet, so I'll chime in with my guess. ;-) He probably tapped off of the wires to leave that connector free for his future add-on for that panel that the switch is in.
Love this. Any thoughts on how to wire it the switch that controlls the led light in the lariat bed?
Maybe they could be tapped directly into the existing bed light and just not use a switch?
@@wademiller7769 I am thinking of wiring mine into the cubby.
@@icecowboy9 I have a cubby on the right side. On the left side I have the inverter, bed light, and bed light switch. Trying to figure out how to tie these lights to that existing bed light switch
Does this works for '22
This kids turning his maverick into a Honda shit box
How so?
Well Your wiring is garbage
Da fuq? These aren’t neon underbody lights. Lights in a truck bed are useful