I have an old 8x10 and a Speed Graphic 4x5. I used back in the late 1960s. I worked for a local newspaper and used their darkroom. Thanks for the demonstration.
Nice video. I got my Toyo 4x5 around 1982 and sold it not too long after that. I wish I had never done that now. Today I have a number of 4x5s, but I don't think the 8x10 will be in my future. One thing about the LF cameras is that you learn patience. You can't "chimp" as you do with a DSLR. I have been telling members of my photo club to be intentional with their photography.
A good simple tutorial. I always used to expose two sheets, for the reasons you said but also it gave me a second chance to push/pull the dev if I figured it to be necessary after viewing the first one.
Hi Josh, sorry for the late reply, but I use the Harrison… Here’s a link to B&H photo: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/172905-REG/Harrison_1002_Jumbo_Film_Changing_Tent.html Thank you for watching, and let’s hope that big cameras in film last a long time!
@@paulubl4380 thank you so much, Paul. I had a Shadow Box tent for years but the polls unfortunately were crushed when moving and I have been looking for a solid replacement. This one seems great so thank you again.
Worked with 4x5" and 8x10" Cambo's some 30 years ago and left it. Since 2015 I'm back in 4x5" and 8x10" with Sinar P2's and loving it! This was a very useful introduction!
Dear Sir, I have a request, would you be so kind and make a video where you are showing the developing of 8x10 sheet. Let me explain, Take a used sheet or an old and expired sheet, and show on video how to develop a sheet in broad daylight, with all the details to us a insight in in the working procedure. Regards Jens
Excellent video!!! I ventured into LF with a 4x5 and since then I have been trying to get my hands on an 8x10 but they are way too expensive. Any idea what a camera like yours would cost if available.
Hard to find used ones, and I got a great deal so many years ago that it’s a relevant, but there are good 8 x 10 cameras out there. One of my favorites is the old Burke and James, but they’re not too cheap either at this point. Have you checked out eBay? Availability is inconsistent, little while ago I saw a Sinar P2 8 x 10 for about $1500, about a quarter of what it would’ve been new!
So sorry I didn’t reply to this sooner, but I just noticed your comment. Film size relates to shadow detail through the simple fact of the amount of silver halide particles attributed to a specific subject detail. On 35mm film, say a portrait of somebody or something like that, an incredibly small portion of the negative is allocated to one eye. A portrait shot on 8 x 10 film with the same composition would be like filling an entire 35mm frame with just an eye. Thus, the sheer quantity of silver halide particles allocated to a particular section of subject is massively increased with the larger film. This creates all sorts of detail not available in smaller format. It also creates differentiation of internal contrast effects since the slight differences in light and dark can be recorded by the increased number of silver particles which create the image. I hope this helps? Thank you for watching!
Paul ~ Thanks Much for the Tut' ~ Good to see that these OldBeasts can still be Relevant ~ Would like to know what Equipment You used to Digitized the Neg ~
I asked Richard Avedon the same question in 1979. He was opening a big show in Dallas, and I was just getting into 8x10. He had a lot of famous photos on display, and many were life size. All of those were shot with the 8x10 and printed in NY using a horizontal point light source enlarger. However, if you are looking for larger film, B&H does still sell 11x14 sheet film, and cameras for that size are sometimes available on ebay? Larger cameras do exist, but I would not know how to get or handle the film for such a camera. The best example of a super large camera would be the Polaroid 20x24. I think it is still being used? Here's a link: 20x24studio.com/
nice video, am interested in 4*5 as well, but what tripod head is that, it's certainly not a ball head!, could you please do a video on this head, and why choose it, versus a normal ball head for example.
I can do that... it is a Majestic Tripod with a Platform Head. They were common in studio and field work in the 60's and 70's. Here's a link to one on ebay: Tripod & Majestic 1200 Geared Head & Case ebay.us/JebvO8
Sorry for the late reply! I have the D850, so on shot is quite good. However, I like using several shots and making a composite too. If you really need a high quality scan, using a DSLR and a light table is probably not good enough. Still, I am quite satisfied for now.
Thanks, that is actually a great question! So it turns out that the program on the phone, “pocket light meter“ can function as a spot meter. I suppose without even thinking about it I directed the spot to the shady area around the tree. There is an old photographers cliché to explain this, “meter for the shadows and develop for the highlights.“ To answer your question, I metered the shadows. However, I did not shorten the development time to hold back highlights, but instead used developer deluded one part developer to two parts water on a Unicolor roller drum assembly for a fixed amount of time, which for me 15 to 20 minutes. As soon as I set up my dark room here at the house in Idaho I will do a video on the procedure. Thanks again for your question!
Sorry I did not see your question sooner. It is a great question! I am old school, so the quote was, "meter the shadows and shoot for the highlights." This basically meant that you shouldn't under expose your film... I am sure I was metering the shadows.
Hi Paul! Loved the video-thanks for the insight! I'm getting started with 8x10 soon and looking into getting a lens. I will be shooting mainly portraits with it, and plan to shoot really shallow (5.6 wide open). I've been looking into the Fujinon lens vs the Nikkor, as well as some other random lenses out there. It gets very confusing! Is there a lens you could recommend that doesn't break the bank but still outputs great quality? Thanks again!
Here's an actual portrait lens: www.ebay.com/itm/KODAK-305mm-12-f-4-8-PORTRAIT-LENS-for-large-format-8x10-cameras-w-orig-box/332540919620?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 You can get a less expensive lens. Here are some guidelines. Probably looking for 360mm lens or an older 14" lens. Make sure it is in a good shutter, and not a barrel mount or something else. Also, don't get a "T" lens. The large format telephoto lenses might be 300-400mm, but still not cover 8x10. M or W lenses are better. Also, I love the old Kodak Commercial Ektar lenses. Much less expensive than the link I sent to you, again, just make sure the shutter is in good working condition. Finally, don't worry about a less expensive lens that doesn't open up to ƒ5.6. At 8x10 size ƒ8 or even a little smaller will still give you no depth-of-field, and you can save a lot by getting a lens with a smaller max opening. Hope this helps? Thanks, Paul
Oops, I think I deleted the comment by dearjohnny? Sorry! Here the link to the new video I just did about ƒ-stops. Here you go, here's the new video. Please let me know if it still leaves you with questions. Thanks, Paul . th-cam.com/video/Vh3gG-Ct2Cc/w-d-xo.html
@@pepeg.luthier566 I did some checking, and the Toyo Field 8x10 is now quite expensive. The most reasonable one I found was on ebay for about $5,000. However, there are great 8x10 cameras for much less... in the $1000 dollar range?
I HAVE SHOOT WITH A PLAUBEL 8X10 INCHES ON FIELD, SHOOTING ADVERTSING REF. BAGS, LUGGAGE AND SO ON.... PROS: SEEING SUCH A LARGE IMAGE WAS WONDERFUL ON THE SCREEN; CONS: VERY HARD TO JUDGE THE DEPTH OF FIELD ONCE YOU CLOSE THE DIAPHGRAM DUE TO THE FACT THAT A STANDARD LENS IS ABOUT 300 MM. AND THUS ALREADY ALENS WITH POOR DEPTH OF FIELD...
I have an old 8x10 and a Speed Graphic 4x5. I used back in the late 1960s. I worked for a local newspaper and used their darkroom. Thanks for the demonstration.
Nice video. I got my Toyo 4x5 around 1982 and sold it not too long after that. I wish I had never done that now. Today I have a number of 4x5s, but I don't think the 8x10 will be in my future. One thing about the LF cameras is that you learn patience. You can't "chimp" as you do with a DSLR. I have been telling members of my photo club to be intentional with their photography.
A good simple tutorial. I always used to expose two sheets, for the reasons you said but also it gave me a second chance to push/pull the dev if I figured it to be necessary after viewing the first one.
great video. May I ask, which film tent is that in the background?
Hi Josh, sorry for the late reply, but I use the Harrison… Here’s a link to B&H photo:
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/172905-REG/Harrison_1002_Jumbo_Film_Changing_Tent.html
Thank you for watching, and let’s hope that big cameras in film last a long time!
@@paulubl4380 thank you so much, Paul.
I had a Shadow Box tent for years but the polls unfortunately were crushed when moving and I have been looking for a solid replacement. This one seems great so thank you again.
Worked with 4x5" and 8x10" Cambo's some 30 years ago and left it. Since 2015 I'm back in 4x5" and 8x10" with Sinar P2's and loving it! This was a very useful introduction!
not to diminish the video, but the most important part is at 10:44 just look at that quality. gorgeous
Dear Sir, I have a request, would you be so kind and make a video where you are showing the developing of 8x10 sheet. Let me explain, Take a used sheet or an old and expired sheet, and show on video how to develop a sheet in broad daylight, with all the details to us a insight in in the working procedure. Regards Jens
Gran trabajo, ¿ Que aplicación usa para medir la luz ?
I’m using an app on my iPhone called pocket light meter.
apps.apple.com/us/app/pocket-light-meter/id381698089
@@paulubl4380 Muchas gracias.
que amable.
Excellent video!!! I ventured into LF with a 4x5 and since then I have been trying to get my hands on an 8x10 but they are way too expensive. Any idea what a camera like yours would cost if available.
Hard to find used ones, and I got a great deal so many years ago that it’s a relevant, but there are good 8 x 10 cameras out there. One of my favorites is the old Burke and James, but they’re not too cheap either at this point. Have you checked out eBay? Availability is inconsistent, little while ago I saw a Sinar P2 8 x 10 for about $1500, about a quarter of what it would’ve been new!
I wish they still made that Majestic Tripod your using
I'm not sure how film size affects shadow detail - you might want to re-think that one.
So sorry I didn’t reply to this sooner, but I just noticed your comment. Film size relates to shadow detail through the simple fact of the amount of silver halide particles attributed to a specific subject detail. On 35mm film, say a portrait of somebody or something like that, an incredibly small portion of the negative is allocated to one eye. A portrait shot on 8 x 10 film with the same composition would be like filling an entire 35mm frame with just an eye. Thus, the sheer quantity of silver halide particles allocated to a particular section of subject is massively increased with the larger film. This creates all sorts of detail not available in smaller format. It also creates differentiation of internal contrast effects since the slight differences in light and dark can be recorded by the increased number of silver particles which create the image. I hope this helps? Thank you for watching!
Paul ~ Thanks Much for the Tut' ~ Good to see that these OldBeasts can still be Relevant ~ Would like to know what Equipment You used to Digitized the Neg ~
This video is a good tutorial and I’m excited to try 8x10.
Michael Germundson thanks! Working on getting my darkroom set up now… Hopefully I’ll have another tutorial soon.
what camera can do life size portraits?
I asked Richard Avedon the same question in 1979. He was opening a big show in Dallas, and I was just getting into 8x10. He had a lot of famous photos on display, and many were life size. All of those were shot with the 8x10 and printed in NY using a horizontal point light source enlarger. However, if you are looking for larger film, B&H does still sell 11x14 sheet film, and cameras for that size are sometimes available on ebay? Larger cameras do exist, but I would not know how to get or handle the film for such a camera. The best example of a super large camera would be the Polaroid 20x24. I think it is still being used? Here's a link: 20x24studio.com/
nice video, am interested in 4*5 as well, but what tripod head is that, it's certainly not a ball head!, could you please do a video on this head, and why choose it, versus a normal ball head for example.
I can do that... it is a Majestic Tripod with a Platform Head. They were common in studio and field work in the 60's and 70's. Here's a link to one on ebay: Tripod & Majestic 1200 Geared Head & Case ebay.us/JebvO8
Outstanding, sir!
EXCELLENT introduction to the 8x10. Very clear, concise description. But DO NOT get one of these outfits if you have any kind of back problems!
Thanks a lot for this great video!!
Great video, would love to see more videos on working with large format cameras! I'm just getting into working with a 4x5 and have lots to learn :-)
Are you scanning with your DSLR? One shot, or multiple stitched?
Sorry for the late reply! I have the D850, so on shot is quite good. However, I like using several shots and making a composite too. If you really need a high quality scan, using a DSLR and a light table is probably not good enough. Still, I am quite satisfied for now.
where exactly did you point your phone / meter to get the reading for the hallway?
Thanks, that is actually a great question! So it turns out that the program on the phone, “pocket light meter“ can function as a spot meter. I suppose without even thinking about it I directed the spot to the shady area around the tree. There is an old photographers cliché to explain this, “meter for the shadows and develop for the highlights.“ To answer your question, I metered the shadows. However, I did not shorten the development time to hold back highlights, but instead used developer deluded one part developer to two parts water on a Unicolor roller drum assembly for a fixed amount of time, which for me 15 to 20 minutes. As soon as I set up my dark room here at the house in Idaho I will do a video on the procedure. Thanks again for your question!
Sorry I did not see your question sooner. It is a great question! I am old school, so the quote was, "meter the shadows and shoot for the highlights." This basically meant that you shouldn't under expose your film... I am sure I was metering the shadows.
How about some back tilt for perspective enhancement and focus control, lol. I miss those days.
Hi Paul! Loved the video-thanks for the insight! I'm getting started with 8x10 soon and looking into getting a lens. I will be shooting mainly portraits with it, and plan to shoot really shallow (5.6 wide open). I've been looking into the Fujinon lens vs the Nikkor, as well as some other random lenses out there. It gets very confusing!
Is there a lens you could recommend that doesn't break the bank but still outputs great quality? Thanks again!
Here's an actual portrait lens:
www.ebay.com/itm/KODAK-305mm-12-f-4-8-PORTRAIT-LENS-for-large-format-8x10-cameras-w-orig-box/332540919620?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
You can get a less expensive lens. Here are some guidelines. Probably looking for 360mm lens or an older 14" lens. Make sure it is in a good shutter, and not a barrel mount or something else. Also, don't get a "T" lens. The large format telephoto lenses might be 300-400mm, but still not cover 8x10. M or W lenses are better. Also, I love the old Kodak Commercial Ektar lenses. Much less expensive than the link I sent to you, again, just make sure the shutter is in good working condition. Finally, don't worry about a less expensive lens that doesn't open up to ƒ5.6. At 8x10 size ƒ8 or even a little smaller will still give you no depth-of-field, and you can save a lot by getting a lens with a smaller max opening. Hope this helps? Thanks, Paul
thank you for the reply!
Oops, I think I deleted the comment by dearjohnny? Sorry! Here the link to the new video I just did about ƒ-stops. Here you go, here's the new video. Please let me know if it still leaves you with questions. Thanks, Paul . th-cam.com/video/Vh3gG-Ct2Cc/w-d-xo.html
Is that the f/64 backpack?
Pepe Guitarra it sure is. Had it for 25 years or so... always been great!
Mind the legs of our tripod, it is unstable.
Your Fujinon is upside down.
Are you selling the camera?
Not selling the camera, but I can help you find one to buy? Also, I will be offering workshops later next year...
@@paulubl4380 What is the on going price for one 8x10 like that?
@@pepeg.luthier566 I did some checking, and the Toyo Field 8x10 is now quite expensive. The most reasonable one I found was on ebay for about $5,000. However, there are great 8x10 cameras for much less... in the $1000 dollar range?
@@paulubl4380 Thanks. I think I will try the Intrepid 8x10
Thanx i love it
I HAVE SHOOT WITH A PLAUBEL 8X10 INCHES ON FIELD, SHOOTING ADVERTSING REF. BAGS, LUGGAGE AND SO ON.... PROS: SEEING SUCH A LARGE IMAGE WAS WONDERFUL ON THE SCREEN; CONS: VERY HARD TO JUDGE THE DEPTH OF FIELD ONCE YOU CLOSE THE DIAPHGRAM DUE TO THE FACT THAT A STANDARD LENS IS ABOUT 300 MM. AND THUS ALREADY ALENS WITH POOR DEPTH OF FIELD...