Hey fam. Michael here. I hope you enjoyed the video and found it helpful and entertaining. If you've ever considered installing solar on your home, my day job outside of TH-cam is solar consulting. If you’d like to schedule a free - no obligation - solar consultation to see what the options are for you to switch to solar, save money, and become energy independent, please click this link and enter your zip code to see if your home qualifies: *****powur.com/understandingsolarp... Do you know anyone who is considering installing solar on their home? Refer them and earn up to $1000! Find out more by clicking this link: *****powur.com/understandingsolarp...
I'm an electronic's technician and I've done quite a bit of research into this subject. I have to say that you've done a fantastic job of explaining this. I couldn't have done any better ... as a matter of fact, I really couldn't have done as well! keep up the good work.
For a person new to these concepts, comparing a solar panel to a battery (AA for example) can really help to bridge the concepts. They can use a couple of batteries and see how connecting in parallel vs series changes the voltage. Then the solar panel discussions can make more sense. Thanks for the great intro video.
35 years in Telecom trade. Touched pretty much everything from battery Banks to transmission lines. Central office installations. Microwave tower construction. You name it. You have done an outstanding presentation Justus!!! Great Job!!!
I am a Physician by profession but became so interested in Solar lighting after a strong typhoon hit our locality and rendered us helpless when our electricity provider was totally damaged. I've been looking for a way to learn the technique of putting up the system of solar lightings and its only now that Im gradually knowing what to do. Thank you so much for this video. A very informative discussion. God bless.
Thank you! I'm still a bit overwhelmed but you have lifted at least a layer from this mystery for me. As a visual person, your side-by-sides & your diagrams are invaluable. Your video is saved & you've earned a new fan. 👏👏👏👏👏 💞👵
I'm a science teacher and I completely agree with the previous comment by Will James, that's a very clear and easily understood explanation of this topic. I might even use it for some of my classes. All the best from England.
Ran across your profile researching solar energy on TH-cam and want to pick your brain. I am renovating a 100 year old underground storm shelter and have made it to the point of installing a solar setup for a couple reasons. 1-power an exhaust fan and intake fan(12v PC fans inside 4” duct work that exit through ceiling) 24hrs day for air exchange and also for a few components that would only be used in a power outage (led light strip, interior circulating fan, maybe a small 12v heater.) I purchased a small kit from amazon see pic below. It’s a 20 watt panel, solar controller. I also purchased a 300 watt inverter, 20AH 12v battery. As my little projects normally do, they become way more than originally planned. Now I have a second 20AH 12v battery in route and Another solar panel, the 2nd one being 50 watt. I have built a removable panel that hangs on the wall that houses the batteries, solar controller, inverter, switches and a fuse block. After watching your video I know I want to wire the panels in parallel so they work independently even if one is in shade during a time frame in the day. I haven’t thought about the batteries and their wiring together yet. The solar controller is a 10amp pwm. I already want to upgrade this because I don’t think the low voltage disconnect is working as it should (battery drained to just under 8 volts during a two day cloudy period and fans were still running. I’m questioning my wiring for the switches. I connected the load from the controller +\- to the poles on the fuse block and wired off the accessory poles (see fuse block pic) to the components (pc fans, led light, etc. the switches do power the components but I don’t think this is right and may be drawing more energy from the battery. My battery is also wired to a master switch on the panel. Do you have any suggestions,thoughts, best practices knowing what I’m attempting? Knowing that I have two solar panels totaling 70 watts, 2 X 20 AH batteries, a 10amp controller, and my components, what replacement controller would you suggest or features to look for in one? I definitely want low voltage disconnect.
Ive been researching solar and trailer coversions into campers for the last year+ and i love the fact that so many of you guys inherently give credit whare it is due. ( referrence to another youtuber (Gone with the wynns)) you guys are great
There is (another) well-received YT Expert on the subject of Solar. He has an incredible (Pedigree), but his vids get a little “rambling” which makes it Difficult (for ME) to follow. I especially appreciate yours for linear discussion points. You actually ‘conclude’, rather than leaving sub-topics .... Open-ended. Thanks !
You can eliminate the whole series panels going down in shade with a bypass diode. This should always be included in a series wired install so failure of one panel does not stop the output. Generally running panels in series up to 300vdc sections in series is best bet for reasonable controllers. Heavy parallel amps creates a lot of heat and requires heavy duty controls
I have my panels set in sets of 9 240 watt panels. Having do a lot of heavy electrical work. I took my panels and set them up then I took a large cardboard and covered a panel I lost the out put from that panel and nothing more. I also covered just a spot of one panel and I lost about half of that panels out put. I have contacted the builder and they said all of there panels made over the last 10 years have bypass diodes built into them to reduce the lose. Now what I have found is two of my sets of 9 panels are then tied together and then I would block off one panel in one group of 9 and it dropped at the combiner the output of doth sets as if they only have 8 panels working together.
You should consider that The search for flexible panels had free shipping. When I went to buy panels, a 300 Watt framed panel was $120 which seems fantastic. But they ship exclusively through freight shipping; that ended up being $260 for shipping one 300 Watt panel. I ended up going for a flexible 300 Watt kit for $360 with free shipping.
Great video! You covered the basics quite well! I would only add that, when comparing poly and mono panels, the panel power ratings may be the same for full direct sun, but the poly panels perform better in less than ideal conditions, like partial cloudiness or a shallow angle to the sun. This difference can be significant over the long term. And, it can best be measured by looking at total daily solar production for both mono and poly panels added up for thirty days, then averaged by dividing the total production for 30 days by 30 to get the average production per day under identical but less than ideal conditions. Then, subtract the totals to get the difference. Spoiler: The poly panels win.
Never read anyone mention this before? I am skeptical so I will do my own digging into that comment. If that is true then why are poly cheaper? Seems the companies would not want you to know that the "cheaper" ones are better? hmmmm
Nice explanation, eazy to understand, I started in this about 35 years ago, when I bought my first ARCO 40 watt solar panel (used) for $250.00 !! and an actual mechanical/electronic solar charge controller, that had contacts you could hear clicking PWM, wow has solar progressed !! Great Video, THANKS William Orange county, ca.
I have been a electrician hobbyists and electrotechinican for HALF of my life,and this is the first time I heard about the series and parallel outputs.. You blew my mind, thank you!!
Depending on manufactuer, most panels from 60w and bigger have 1 or more bypass diodes that help with shading issues for series connected panels. If 1 bit is shaded, the diode conducts so rest of string continues production
I have solar panels on my house. It is an 8K system with 29 panels. I went with microinverters on each panel. Microinverters convert the panels energy to 120 VAC at each panel and then send the low amperage current to the main panel. Each panel operates independently and shadding on one panel doesn't effect any of the others. I don,t have a battery back up system since I am using a grid tied system so your need may be different than mine. You might want to look into it. I plan on retiring in 4 years and hitting the road full time in a class A and solar is a must for me. I think you have done an exelant job explaining things. I have subscribed to your channel and have watched all of your videos. Thank you for sharing hopefully we will see you on the road in a few years. Greg & Grace
+Gregory Dugre This is very interesting Greg! It sounds like an awesome setup 👍🏼 Thanks for the great info! It’s so exciting that you’ll be on the road in a few years! Wishing you all the best! 😊
Yes Sir, I am an ordinary electrician new in solar power system and you tackled the subject very loud and clear, fantastic. Now I understood, thank you and GOD bless 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Awesome video ! The way you explained it made my 2 year old brain understand it, only thing is what system works best for someone whos boondocking alot more and doesnt want to fire up his/ her generator? I am guessing the parallel with the more amps?
interesting points ,if anyone else wants to uncover easy to install solar power try Magonsi Solar System Expert (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? Ive heard some super things about it and my m8 got cool results with it.
I just found you yesterday and I'm basically just watching all of your videos. I absolutely love how you present information. I feel like you're very in-depth in your explanation but it's stated in a way that makes it so easy to understand. So many people who are doing RV renovation just gloss over how exactly to do things but you actually explain all the steps to do everything. It's so helpful and I'm so happy I found your channel right when I'm about to buy my first RV which is gonna be a 1987 allegro. Thanks for everything you're doing. Have a wonderful day!
Nice job except for two things. First, your comment about controller capacity is somewhat misleading. First, if you are going to wire your panels in series or series parallel you will want to use an MPPT controller NOT a PWM controller. In that case you need to look at the maximum solar array wattage that the MPPT controller can handle AND the maximum open circuit voltage that the controller can handle. For typical 12 volt panels the open circuit voltage is in the 21.5 volt range NOT the 17.5 volts you mention, which is the operating voltage. So when picking an MPPT controller for series or series parallel wired panels you need a controller that can handle your total system wattage and the total open system voltage for your array as wired. For example, four panels wired in series will have a maximum open circuit voltage of 4 times 21.5 or 86 volts, so you need a controller that can handle at least 86 volts (say a controller rated for 100 volts) Another consideration is that the amperage rating for MPPT controllers is typically the charging amps NOT the panel amps. For a series wired array the charging amps can be estimated as array wattage (say 600) divided by charging voltage (say 14). So for the 600 watt array 600/14 = 43 amps, so you would need a 50 amp rated MPPT controller to handle a 600 watt solar array. Second although your graph showed the dependence of wire size on amperage AND wire length you completely forgot to mention length in your discussion. Wire length is a critical parameter in choosing wire size. The longer the wire run the larger the wires need to be. I say this is critical because someone listening to your video might come away thinking that wires should be sized based on amps alone. That can lead to a very unsafe setup. I say unsafe, because under sizing the wires can cause a fire. Other than those two details a very nice video.
+Todd Dunn This is all great information Todd. Thank you! 😊 As I’m sure you know, there is only a certain amount of info that I can put into a video before I lose the attention of the viewer. All of this will be covered at some point in the future but this video was strictly focused on the solar panels of a solar power system. Thanks for watching and I’ll see you on the next one 👍🏼
Gary Hornbuckle, you've got it reversed. Increased wire resistance will cause a VOLTAGE drop, NOT a current drop. Current is the same at all points in a series circuit. Ohm's Law says P = I*I*R. For example, if a wire carrying 8 Amps, has a total end-to-end resistance of 0.1 Ohms, the power dissipated in that wire will be 6.4 Watts. Decrease the resistance by making the wire larger, say to 0.05 Ohms, and that wire will dissipate 3.2 Watts. If it weren't a safety issue, then it wouldn't be an NEC violation to protect a branch circuit in a house comprised of AWG 12 wire with a 40 Amp breaker. AWG 12 wire is rated for 20 Amps max. The wire will eventually overheat and cause a fire long before the 40 Amp breaker trips.
Its voltage drop that is the concern im going to be lazy with the figures but you will get the point Say you have 2000w solar system at 100v 20a and you have 10v drop over your cable well the charge controller will still see 20a but now only 90v so your useable power is 1800w it doesn't matter where on that circuit you test there will be 20a as for any danger well no if the cable is made for 20a it will be fine just wasteful, now i know what your saying about the cable affecting series resistance but it is such a negligible amount you never worry about it a 2mm or 12 gauge wire which is rated 20a is .5ohm per 100m or roughly 330feet which you would never do with a cable that size
@@garylhorn the reason i used such a small cable and large distance is to show how small the resistance is but if you want to use your 3 feet of 0000 gauge well that is 0.000143 ohm so double that for positive and negative so if you were working out your ciruit resistance would you bother adding 0.000286 or just forget that bit
A total run of 100 meters wouldn't be too difficult. Don't forget you have to count both the supply side and the return side of a wire pair. So a 50m run of 2 conductor wire would effectively be 100m. My house is 120 feet long from end to end. My load center is 28 feet from one end of my house. There's four runs from the load center to a room at the opposite end of the house aproximately 90 feet away. Adding another 3m for vertical travel, i.e. from the load center to the attic and the attic to the receptacles, the total one-way distance for each of the runs is ~100 feet. accounting for the pair, that's 200 feet of wire per run. So while a 100m run is not likely to be a common occurance, it's definitely not difficult to do.
Got my system in a kit, and it works great. Only comes in series. Now I have done my research and I will say you have put things out very direct and simple. The visual aids really helped. Excellent work.
Wiring in series lesson begins at 7:05 Wiring in Parallel begins at 10:18 Lesson on pros and cons of series vs parallel begins at 11:47 Wire size chart at 12:17 Lesson on third option wiring in series AND parallel begins at 14:45
Very cool. Thank you. I'm a fairly bright guy and just about 50 years ago I was taught all of this stuff in high school Physics of all places and promptly forgot most of it not having gone into the electrical field. Kinda' toying with the idea of solar and getting up to speed with what I'll need to know. By far, this clip was the best, clearest and concise summary of the hot points I have seen to date. Just fucking excellent.
Thanks for the info. Btw you didn’t mention about the big difference between mono and poly. Mono are designed to be exposed perpendicularly to the sun rays, the crystals are oriented all in the same direction. Poly has multiple oriented crystals, so less efficient compared to mono at 90 degrees but more efficient in any other angles. I think polys are best in winter, northern regions and places where the sky is cloudy the most of the day. This is what i found reading over internet but if i’m wrong or i’m missing something as technology improvements, feel free to correct me (sorry for my broken eng)
and wrong .. very very very wrong ... monocrystaline panels use one wave length of light generaly blue ... while poly panels use 2 to 4 wave lengths of light ... and operate in lower light conditions ... poly panels use blue red yellow and green light wave lengths ... and because they do they start charging and working as soon as light hits them ... and stop when its dark ... mono panels start after sun is up and about 3% above the horizin .. comparing the two panels must be done from dark to dark ... to actually calculate them
Thanks. This is probably the most informative explanation I've seen yet on TH-cam of the in series/parallel options for wiring solar panels. Great job!
In an RV everyone is different. People live in different climates. People live out in the open in sunlight. Some live in a mountainous or shady area. People camp under shade trees. This is a very informative video. Some solar companies say to wire in series. Some say parallel. I’m in Florida. I do not park in the full sun if I can help it. I wire mine in series parallel. Whatever works to keep my fridge and lights on.
battery to controller = you get to program how much you feed out from the batteries.. if its battery to inverter its pulling everything the battery has to give... (meaning it will drain it fast) battery to controller is better... then you can record the power usage...
Series Wiring @7:58 Parallel Wiring @10:20 Wire Sizing Chart @12:15 Series Vs. Parallel Wire Sizing @12:26 Series Vs. Parallel Shading @12:54 Series Vs. Parallel Charge Controller Requirements @14:00
An excellent presentation, a well done video, I just wanted to point out a way around the loss when running panels in series and one getting shaded, The reason for the loss when shaded is the fact that an unlit cell is almost an open circuit therefore allowing the rest of the cells to reverse the polarity of the shaded cell or cells, however most of the newer high quality panels have blocking diodes across portions of the panel as they cannot put them across individual cells as the forward voltage drop of a standard silicone diode which is 0.6 to the threshold and as high as 0.9 at it's full rated current, is greater than the voltage produced by a single cell which is 0.5 nominal depending on cell temperature. The easiest way to get a series string of panels to operate just like the parallel panels do losing only 25% when one panel is shaded in a group of 4 as he is showing, is simply to place a shot-key bearer rectifier diode across each panel, as they only have a 0.3 volt forward voltage drop to the threshold and will be less than 0.5 volts at full rated current making it equivalent to the loss of a single cell.
Thank you dearly. You are a godsend. Please keep up your hard work! It's much appreciated. I couldn't have asked for a more clear and concise description.
i have been watching lot of solar panel array videos to find a suitable system for me.. by far this is the best video explaining everything i needed to know..thank you @Duet Justus
nice video. I wanted to add that panels wired in series do not stop functioning if one of 4 panels is occluded. The voltage would drop by 1/4 and you can use the remaining voltage with an MPPT charger which operates a large variance in volts.
Yep so truh ITs becaus of bypass diodes in real panels If they buy substandard panels with out the BYPASS DIODE's/DIOD But this Guy is just parroting others flaws!! Mono is also way mor efisiant in cloudy weather Then poly!! The states numbers are fully sunshine on both panels Not a cloudy Day on mono Vs poly crystalin!!
I have two 12 volt 20 watt solar panels that was given to me and for the longest time I got series and parallel confused but you just cleared it up for me.
Well, maybe it is a compliment to your presentation but to me, this is very simplistic mathematically and electronically. I am not sure why you say that it is confusing. I find it is so simple an elementary school child could do this. Thanks for the information on the difference between the types (Rigid/Flexible) panels. Great information on the comparison between warranty and ruggedness of the panels. Have a great day!
Excellent, thank you! There are quite a few people who know how to do this, but presenting it in a manner that others can understand requires excellent communication skills on top of the technical skills. This is the first video of yours that I have watched, but you are so good at both I have to subscribe.
One thing you may have considered was to show side by side all 3 setups with the necessary wire and Controllers. You tend to over explain the easy stuff then under explain the stuff that matters. You might probably cut down the length of your videos but just cutting to the chase and reducing redundancy such as: Mono Poly Flexible Series, Parallel, Series+Parallel Series,Parallel, Series+Parallel Series,Parallel, Series+Parallel Watts, Volts, Amps, Wire, Controller Repeat for Poly & Flexible and of course efficiency and cost involved. I totally get that you put a ton of work into your videos; that is very clear as your content is A+++++ Your redundancy however, could use a lot of work. Some folks don't realize they repeat themselves but using different words does not change the overall meaning that ends up being the same. You clearly know infinitely more about Solar than I as I am still learning and have yet to invest in my first system. My Solar needs are small at the moment but will grow as I am able to afford upgraded equipment to expand. I've been researching and watching videos over the past several years now and I've found your videos to be of the most use thus far. Again your content is great it's just you tend to repeat yourself over and over and over which makes for a very long video. When you over explain it's more akin to spoon feeding your content rather than just putting it out there and letting use eat it at our leisure or pace. Please do not take my comment as harsh but rather as a playful kick in the pants as I mean no harm. It might not be a bad idea to put what you would invest in as a baseline. You did mention that flexible panel with a high efficiency rating as an option but dollars to cents matter to most folks these days. Sure it would be nice to have our cake and eat it too plus pick out the toppings but Life is not like that many times... Cheers mate, keep up the great work....
Hello Justus, I am very impressed by the way you explain this concept of wiring solar panels both in series and parallel. Aside from the different classifications and benefits with disadvantages of types of panel. I have learned a great deal of knowledge. Respect Botherly!
A few misconceptions but a well produced video nonetheless. Love the name lol I did see in the comments someone saying that there are diodes across the panels to stop the shading loss, this is quite untrue, they are there to protect the panel from reverse currents which may destroy the panel. This is silicon and the way a solar array works is not dissimilar to a transistor. I think the second misconception is that the panel has been taken as a single solar unit, whereas the panel is an array of cells, configured in series and parallel. Those cells that are shaded will of course not turn on and thus will not conduct and generate electricity. A simplistic way to think of this, is in terms of there being a row of cells in series (~18-22), to give the panel Voltage, and rows of cells in parallel to give the current. Now if you imagine that the top half of a panel is in shadow and the bottom half is not, then the panel will still generate a current albeit less than a full panel. So if each row generates the Voltage, then covering a row up will turn the power off and any row in sun will generate power. You can easily see this when you look at a panel. The cells are in a series and parallel matrix, so even if you cover a top corner of the panel, the rest of the cells will still generate power. Hope this helps.
aahh ! ..The Value Of an Intentionally Intellilgent Learn'ed Mentality' ThankYou For Complimenting Our Intelligence By Valuing Yours' ! Greatly Informative and Well Spoken Via' a Most Competant Video ! Blessings Always To You🌈
Very helpful. Very well explained. I am a newbie with 1 Wynn video, and 2 by Will Prowse. 1) Probably time for an update (the technology incrementally changes) 2) You refer to your other videos in a series and then "as you already know". LInks, links 3) As you instructed, series wiring has advantages, but shading is a problem. What is the current state of the art in using both Bypass and Blocking Diodes to eliminate this limitation?
Great video, no question about it. Nevertheless, I'd like to point out a few things I noticed: 1/ Error @ 15:20 - diagram should show 35V instead of 24V (in parentessis). 2/ The shading issue is even more pronounced by the fact that the cells in panels are usually wired in series, i.e. even one shaded cell can knock off the full panel. 3/ MPPT controllers have different efficiency with different input voltage. Usually, the higher voltage (70V) is more efficient (then 17.5V), but it depends on the controller rating.. I wouldn't consider PWM controllers at all. This does not diminish the fact that your video is EXTREMELY detailed and thorough. Thank you.
The shading isn't that bad in series as he claims. Solar panels come with 2 or more bypass diodes. If part of the panel is shaded, the cells get bypassed so they can't kill the whole string. Only the shaded panel is down. The voltage for the string drops and if it gets too low, the efficiency of the inverter suffers.
This is a fantastic series. I know enough electrical and other things to be dangerous....LOL This series clarifies several things, but I will have a question or 2 later I am sure. Like how do I combine my solar input with other inputs to the battery such as converter with input from gen to be able to charge batteries quicker.?
Hey! I just posted a video on our personal solar panel setup and here is a link to the eBay seller I purchased my panels from (goo.gl/WdPnn5). Hope this helps!
glad you mentioned mixed-pairing (series & parallel grouping) because i was gonna be like: "you don't have to ONLY do one or the other...you can mix the two methods" but...you did mention it in the end
Yes, but some are failing to the possible ramifications of new laws on both chalking and caulking guns. I also worry that some terrorist will find a way to mix silicon with silicone and then add both of those to sillyputty and then well, I don't even have explain the rest. Now do I?🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thanks a lot, this is genuine video i have ever seen among more than 50 videos on solar science, very calm and peaceful environment u gave, last part which is both model put together is confusing for me, its 11:50 pm here in india and watching this video make me feel great,once again thanks
He keeps saying "silicone" but he means "silicon." Silicone (long "o" sound) is the squishy, soft gel; silicon (short "o" sound) is the hard, brittle element.
Oh, and available today are systems that use either power optimizers or micro-inverters, both of which change the wiring possibilities along with removing restrictions in layout and remove shading issues. You should also be aware that the voltage and current are not fixed. An example factor in varying voltage is temperature, which can change significantly throughout the day. One other factor that should be considered is there are lots of factors that derate, or reduce, the current carrying capacity of wires and cables.
Great Video, and a very clever person, I tried to get my panel supplier to explain why I should connect them his way and I got baffled with jargon. Thanks for posting the video. Thumbs Up.
Wow the best video yet on explaining the amps, volts and watts. New subscriber thanks for your information you got me excited and I feel I have a much better understanding on solar panels. And probably can install them into my new RV when I buy one.
GREAT JOB !! I finally understand how all this series vs parallel stuff goes. Best and easiest to understand explanation I've ever seen ! Thank you, thank you, thank you.👏 👍👍
Hey fam. Michael here. I hope you enjoyed the video and found it helpful and entertaining. If you've ever considered installing solar on your home, my day job outside of TH-cam is solar consulting. If you’d like to schedule a free - no obligation - solar consultation to see what the options are for you to switch to solar, save money, and become energy independent, please click this link and enter your zip code to see if your home qualifies:
*****powur.com/understandingsolarp...
Do you know anyone who is considering installing solar on their home? Refer them and earn up to $1000! Find out more by clicking this link:
*****powur.com/understandingsolarp...
I'm an electronic's technician and I've done quite a bit of research into this subject. I have to say that you've done a fantastic job of explaining this. I couldn't have done any better ... as a matter of fact, I really couldn't have done as well! keep up the good work.
Indeed, a fantastic explanation, for both - experienced and unexperiencied people! Congratulation.
Can you email the wire diagram?
Amazing explanation. well done. Thanks
For a person new to these concepts, comparing a solar panel to a battery (AA for example) can really help to bridge the concepts. They can use a couple of batteries and see how connecting in parallel vs series changes the voltage. Then the solar panel discussions can make more sense.
Thanks for the great intro video.
35 years in Telecom trade.
Touched pretty much everything from battery Banks to transmission lines. Central office installations. Microwave tower construction. You name it.
You have done an outstanding presentation Justus!!! Great Job!!!
I am a Physician by profession but became so interested in Solar lighting after a strong typhoon hit our locality and rendered us helpless when our electricity provider was totally damaged. I've been looking for a way to learn the technique of putting up the system of solar lightings and its only now that Im gradually knowing what to do. Thank you so much for this video. A very informative discussion. God bless.
Thank you! I'm still a bit overwhelmed but you have lifted at least a layer from this mystery for me. As a visual person, your side-by-sides & your diagrams are invaluable.
Your video is saved & you've earned a new fan. 👏👏👏👏👏
💞👵
Cool i to follow you advertise
I'm a science teacher and I completely agree with the previous comment by Will James, that's a very clear and easily understood explanation of this topic. I might even use it for some of my classes. All the best from England.
Michael, you are a very good and patient teacher. Thank you for the thorough instruction on solar arrays.
Ran across your profile researching solar energy on TH-cam and want to pick your brain. I am renovating a 100 year old underground storm shelter and have made it to the point of installing a solar setup for a couple reasons. 1-power an exhaust fan and intake fan(12v PC fans inside 4” duct work that exit through ceiling) 24hrs day for air exchange and also for a few components that would only be used in a power outage (led light strip, interior circulating fan, maybe a small 12v heater.) I purchased a small kit from amazon see pic below. It’s a 20 watt panel, solar controller. I also purchased a 300 watt inverter, 20AH 12v battery. As my little projects normally do, they become way more than originally planned. Now I have a second 20AH 12v battery in route and Another solar panel, the 2nd one being 50 watt. I have built a removable panel that hangs on the wall that houses the batteries, solar controller, inverter, switches and a fuse block. After watching your video I know I want to wire the panels in parallel so they work independently even if one is in shade during a time frame in the day. I haven’t thought about the batteries and their wiring together yet. The solar controller is a 10amp pwm. I already want to upgrade this because I don’t think the low voltage disconnect is working as it should (battery drained to just under 8 volts during a two day cloudy period and fans were still running. I’m questioning my wiring for the switches. I connected the load from the controller +\- to the poles on the fuse block and wired off the accessory poles (see fuse block pic) to the components (pc fans, led light, etc. the switches do power the components but I don’t think this is right and may be drawing more energy from the battery. My battery is also wired to a master switch on the panel. Do you have any suggestions,thoughts, best practices knowing what I’m attempting? Knowing that I have two solar panels totaling 70 watts, 2 X 20 AH batteries, a 10amp controller, and my components, what replacement controller would you suggest or features to look for in one? I definitely want low voltage disconnect.
Ive been researching solar and trailer coversions into campers for the last year+ and i love the fact that so many of you guys inherently give credit whare it is due. ( referrence to another youtuber (Gone with the wynns)) you guys are great
There is (another) well-received YT Expert on the subject of Solar. He has an incredible (Pedigree), but his vids get a little “rambling” which makes it Difficult (for ME) to follow.
I especially appreciate yours for linear discussion points. You actually ‘conclude’, rather than leaving sub-topics .... Open-ended. Thanks !
You can eliminate the whole series panels going down in shade with a bypass diode. This should always be included in a series wired install so failure of one panel does not stop the output. Generally running panels in series up to 300vdc sections in series is best bet for reasonable controllers. Heavy parallel amps creates a lot of heat and requires heavy duty controls
Thanks for this contribution.
Please how can one include the bypass diode to serve this purpose?
I have my panels set in sets of 9 240 watt panels. Having do a lot of heavy electrical work. I took my panels and set them up then I took a large cardboard and covered a panel I lost the out put from that panel and nothing more. I also covered just a spot of one panel and I lost about half of that panels out put. I have contacted the builder and they said all of there panels made over the last 10 years have bypass diodes built into them to reduce the lose. Now what I have found is two of my sets of 9 panels are then tied together and then I would block off one panel in one group of 9 and it dropped at the combiner the output of doth sets as if they only have 8 panels working together.
You should consider that The search for flexible panels had free shipping.
When I went to buy panels, a 300 Watt framed panel was $120 which seems fantastic. But they ship exclusively through freight shipping; that ended up being $260 for shipping one 300 Watt panel. I ended up going for a flexible 300 Watt kit for $360 with free shipping.
This is the best video ever, which explains in detail how solar panels work and how to set them up and get the best efficiency from your system.
Great video! You covered the basics quite well! I would only add that, when comparing poly and mono panels, the panel power ratings may be the same for full direct sun, but the poly panels perform better in less than ideal conditions, like partial cloudiness or a shallow angle to the sun. This difference can be significant over the long term. And, it can best be measured by looking at total daily solar production for both mono and poly panels added up for thirty days, then averaged by dividing the total production for 30 days by 30 to get the average production per day under identical but less than ideal conditions. Then, subtract the totals to get the difference. Spoiler: The poly panels win.
Never read anyone mention this before? I am skeptical so I will do my own digging into that comment. If that is true then why are poly cheaper? Seems the companies would not want you to know that the "cheaper" ones are better? hmmmm
Nice explanation, eazy to understand, I started in this about 35 years ago, when I bought my first ARCO 40 watt solar panel (used) for $250.00 !! and an actual mechanical/electronic solar charge controller, that had contacts you could hear clicking PWM, wow has solar progressed !! Great Video, THANKS William Orange county, ca.
WOW Michael, you did an amazing job on this solar series!!! You explained it and broke it down very well. I learned a lot.... Well Done!!! Thanks!!!
+Shel Ribelin Thank you Shel! That’s so nice of you to say 😊 I’m so glad you got some value out of it 👍🏼 Thanks for watching!
I have been a electrician hobbyists and electrotechinican for HALF of my life,and this is the first time I heard about the series and parallel outputs..
You blew my mind, thank you!!
Depending on manufactuer, most panels from 60w and bigger have 1 or more bypass diodes that help with shading issues for series connected panels. If 1 bit is shaded, the diode conducts so rest of string continues production
I have solar panels on my house. It is an 8K system with 29 panels. I went with microinverters on each panel. Microinverters convert the panels energy to 120 VAC at each panel and then send the low amperage current to the main panel. Each panel operates independently and shadding on one panel doesn't effect any of the others. I don,t have a battery back up system since I am using a grid tied system so your need may be different than mine. You might want to look into it. I plan on retiring in 4 years and hitting the road full time in a class A and solar is a must for me. I think you have done an exelant job explaining things. I have subscribed to your channel and have watched all of your videos. Thank you for sharing hopefully we will see you on the road in a few years. Greg & Grace
+Gregory Dugre This is very interesting Greg! It sounds like an awesome setup 👍🏼 Thanks for the great info! It’s so exciting that you’ll be on the road in a few years! Wishing you all the best! 😊
FYI solar now a days used internal diode incase of shading, so shading one of the panel that is connected in series only affect the solar been shaded.
Thanks for adding that comment, I just installed two panels in series and when one is shaded I was still getting full output from the other.
Yes Sir, I am an ordinary electrician new in solar power system and you tackled the subject very loud and clear, fantastic. Now I understood, thank you and GOD bless 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Great series. The information is presented very well so just about anyone can understand the basic concepts. Good job!
Yes, you are right. He has clear all the concepts regarding the solar panel
I am very much agreed with your comment
Awesome video ! The way you explained it made my 2 year old brain understand it, only thing is what system works best for someone whos boondocking alot more and doesnt want to fire up his/ her generator? I am guessing the parallel with the more amps?
interesting points ,if anyone else wants to uncover easy to install solar power try Magonsi Solar System Expert (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? Ive heard some super things about it and my m8 got cool results with it.
Produceeee Green Energy . How to produce free energy using a simple device. > bit.ly/2C0qCeE?-your-home-solar-panels
I just found you yesterday and I'm basically just watching all of your videos. I absolutely love how you present information. I feel like you're very in-depth in your explanation but it's stated in a way that makes it so easy to understand. So many people who are doing RV renovation just gloss over how exactly to do things but you actually explain all the steps to do everything. It's so helpful and I'm so happy I found your channel right when I'm about to buy my first RV which is gonna be a 1987 allegro. Thanks for everything you're doing. Have a wonderful day!
Nice job except for two things. First, your comment about controller capacity is somewhat misleading. First, if you are going to wire your panels in series or series parallel you will want to use an MPPT controller NOT a PWM controller. In that case you need to look at the maximum solar array wattage that the MPPT controller can handle AND the maximum open circuit voltage that the controller can handle. For typical 12 volt panels the open circuit voltage is in the 21.5 volt range NOT the 17.5 volts you mention, which is the operating voltage. So when picking an MPPT controller for series or series parallel wired panels you need a controller that can handle your total system wattage and the total open system voltage for your array as wired. For example, four panels wired in series will have a maximum open circuit voltage of 4 times 21.5 or 86 volts, so you need a controller that can handle at least 86 volts (say a controller rated for 100 volts) Another consideration is that the amperage rating for MPPT controllers is typically the charging amps NOT the panel amps. For a series wired array the charging amps can be estimated as array wattage (say 600) divided by charging voltage (say 14). So for the 600 watt array 600/14 = 43 amps, so you would need a 50 amp rated MPPT controller to handle a 600 watt solar array. Second although your graph showed the dependence of wire size on amperage AND wire length you completely forgot to mention length in your discussion. Wire length is a critical parameter in choosing wire size. The longer the wire run the larger the wires need to be. I say this is critical because someone listening to your video might come away thinking that wires should be sized based on amps alone. That can lead to a very unsafe setup. I say unsafe, because under sizing the wires can cause a fire. Other than those two details a very nice video.
+Todd Dunn This is all great information Todd. Thank you! 😊 As I’m sure you know, there is only a certain amount of info that I can put into a video before I lose the attention of the viewer. All of this will be covered at some point in the future but this video was strictly focused on the solar panels of a solar power system. Thanks for watching and I’ll see you on the next one 👍🏼
Gary Hornbuckle, you've got it reversed. Increased wire resistance will cause a VOLTAGE drop, NOT a current drop. Current is the same at all points in a series circuit. Ohm's Law says P = I*I*R. For example, if a wire carrying 8 Amps, has a total end-to-end resistance of 0.1 Ohms, the power dissipated in that wire will be 6.4 Watts. Decrease the resistance by making the wire larger, say to 0.05 Ohms, and that wire will dissipate 3.2 Watts.
If it weren't a safety issue, then it wouldn't be an NEC violation to protect a branch circuit in a house comprised of AWG 12 wire with a 40 Amp breaker. AWG 12 wire is rated for 20 Amps max. The wire will eventually overheat and cause a fire long before the 40 Amp breaker trips.
Its voltage drop that is the concern im going to be lazy with the figures but you will get the point
Say you have 2000w solar system at 100v 20a and you have 10v drop over your cable well the charge controller will still see 20a but now only 90v so your useable power is 1800w it doesn't matter where on that circuit you test there will be 20a as for any danger well no if the cable is made for 20a it will be fine just wasteful, now i know what your saying about the cable affecting series resistance but it is such a negligible amount you never worry about it a 2mm or 12 gauge wire which is rated 20a is .5ohm per 100m or roughly 330feet which you would never do with a cable that size
@@garylhorn the reason i used such a small cable and large distance is to show how small the resistance is but if you want to use your 3 feet of 0000 gauge well that is 0.000143 ohm so double that for positive and negative so if you were working out your ciruit resistance would you bother adding 0.000286 or just forget that bit
A total run of 100 meters wouldn't be too difficult. Don't forget you have to count both the supply side and the return side of a wire pair. So a 50m run of 2 conductor wire would effectively be 100m. My house is 120 feet long from end to end. My load center is 28 feet from one end of my house. There's four runs from the load center to a room at the opposite end of the house aproximately 90 feet away. Adding another 3m for vertical travel, i.e. from the load center to the attic and the attic to the receptacles, the total one-way distance for each of the runs is ~100 feet. accounting for the pair, that's 200 feet of wire per run. So while a 100m run is not likely to be a common occurance, it's definitely not difficult to do.
Got my system in a kit, and it works great. Only comes in series. Now I have done my research and I will say you have put things out very direct and simple. The visual aids really helped. Excellent work.
Wiring in series lesson begins at 7:05 Wiring in Parallel begins at 10:18 Lesson on pros and cons of series vs parallel begins at 11:47 Wire size chart at 12:17 Lesson on third option wiring in series AND parallel begins at 14:45
Very cool. Thank you. I'm a fairly bright guy and just about 50 years ago I was taught all of this stuff in high school Physics of all places and promptly forgot most of it not having gone into the electrical field. Kinda' toying with the idea of solar and getting up to speed with what I'll need to know. By far, this clip was the best, clearest and concise summary of the hot points I have seen to date. Just fucking excellent.
Excellent explanation of Design and theory of the pros and cons for different panels and Solar panel wiring
Thanks James!
Great Job Explaining!!! You made the knowledge very accessable to someone with no electrical background. Very Clear and Concise, Thank You!!
Great video. Easy to understand. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching! 😊
and wrong ... from the start ...
This is the best explanation I've seen so far. Nice job.
Well done one of the best breakdowns of it. Well done sir.
Thanks Roger 😎
your explanation is too clear and easily to understand unlike other videos are somewhat confusing....thank u very much
Thanks for the info. Btw you didn’t mention about the big difference between mono and poly. Mono are designed to be exposed perpendicularly to the sun rays, the crystals are oriented all in the same direction. Poly has multiple oriented crystals, so less efficient compared to mono at 90 degrees but more efficient in any other angles. I think polys are best in winter, northern regions and places where the sky is cloudy the most of the day. This is what i found reading over internet but if i’m wrong or i’m missing something as technology improvements, feel free to correct me (sorry for my broken eng)
Thanks for this very important addition about mono and poly.
Thank you for this clarification. I have been looking for this information.
very important to know. could not find this info previously and seems like the absolutely most important distinction. thanks :)
I just do g some research on solar panels and your video is by far the best I have seen so far.
Keep up the good work mate.
Well done.
That was a good video explaining solar clearly and in basic terms thanks.
and wrong .. very very very wrong ... monocrystaline panels use one wave length of light generaly blue ... while poly panels use 2 to 4 wave lengths of light ... and operate in lower light conditions ... poly panels use blue red yellow and green light wave lengths ... and because they do they start charging and working as soon as light hits them ... and stop when its dark ... mono panels start after sun is up and about 3% above the horizin .. comparing the two panels must be done from dark to dark ... to actually calculate them
@@0623kaboom OMG...I knew it! I feel better now...howsabout you? Group hug everyone...
It is fantastic. I am not an electronic technician but with this video I am becoming a complete electronic technician. Thank you
you mentioned gone with the wynns and I freaked out!!! That's crazy I literally came from their channel because I was interested in solar!!!!!!
Thanks. This is probably the most informative explanation I've seen yet on TH-cam of the in series/parallel options for wiring solar panels. Great job!
GREAT EXPLANATION! I finally learned the in depth info I was looking for!
Fantastic, you made this so simple thank you
Excellent well done, great series
Thanks Theo!
I’m just starting to consider solar and it can be overwhelming. From now on you are my god. I understood your explanation perfectly. Great job!
Nice video. Great job explaining things! I look forward to more!
Thank you John. I really like making them so I'm glad you are enjoying the series!
In an RV everyone is different. People live in different climates. People live out in the open in sunlight. Some live in a mountainous or shady area. People camp under shade trees. This is a very informative video. Some solar companies say to wire in series. Some say parallel. I’m in Florida. I do not park in the full sun if I can help it. I wire mine in series parallel. Whatever works to keep my fridge and lights on.
battery to controller = you get to program how much you feed out from the batteries..
if its battery to inverter its pulling everything the battery has to give... (meaning it will drain it fast)
battery to controller is better... then you can record the power usage...
Thank you for teaching and sharing your expertise!
Lovely clear explanations. I normally don't get electricity at all but I understood every bit of this. Thank you soooo much.
Thank you for all this!!! Very easy to understand :)
Awesome Lucas. Glad to hear!
absolutely brilliant video and I also want to thank Jenny for her help in this video as well thank you both
+Steve Napoli Thanks Steve! Yes, she helps out a ton on these videos and deserves lots of credit 🙏🏼😎
Series Wiring @7:58
Parallel Wiring @10:20
Wire Sizing Chart @12:15
Series Vs. Parallel Wire Sizing @12:26
Series Vs. Parallel Shading @12:54
Series Vs. Parallel Charge Controller Requirements @14:00
An excellent presentation, a well done video, I just wanted to point out a way around the loss when running panels in series and one getting shaded, The reason for the loss when shaded is the fact that an unlit cell is almost an open circuit therefore allowing the rest of the cells to reverse the polarity of the shaded cell or cells, however most of the newer high quality panels have blocking diodes across portions of the panel as they cannot put them across individual cells as the forward voltage drop of a standard silicone diode which is 0.6 to the threshold and as high as 0.9 at it's full rated current, is greater than the voltage produced by a single cell which is 0.5 nominal depending on cell temperature. The easiest way to get a series string of panels to operate just like the parallel panels do losing only 25% when one panel is shaded in a group of 4 as he is showing, is simply to place a shot-key bearer rectifier diode across each panel, as they only have a 0.3 volt forward voltage drop to the threshold and will be less than 0.5 volts at full rated current making it equivalent to the loss of a single cell.
thanks so much for the great video on solar and I'm looking forward to viewing the entire series. Great job!
Thank you dearly. You are a godsend. Please keep up your hard work! It's much appreciated. I couldn't have asked for a more clear and concise description.
And once again, I've learned by attending your class! :) Thanks for the great info!!!
+Tom and Lori RVLife 😊😊😊
i have been watching lot of solar panel array videos to find a suitable system for me.. by far this is the best video explaining everything i needed to know..thank you @Duet Justus
Excellent presentation! Thank you, sir!
incredibly well done - both verbal and illustrations.
Nice video. I haven't done my solar yet but shading on an RV is always a concern for me so I am leaning to parallel. Happy travels.
Depending on where you'll be parking and what you have on the roof of your rig, parallel is definitely the way to go 😎 Wishing you all the best!
nice video. I wanted to add that panels wired in series do not stop functioning if one of 4 panels is occluded. The voltage would drop by 1/4 and you can use the remaining voltage with an MPPT charger which operates a large variance in volts.
Yep so truh ITs becaus of bypass diodes in real panels
If they buy substandard panels with out the BYPASS DIODE's/DIOD
But this Guy is just parroting others flaws!!
Mono is also way mor efisiant in cloudy weather Then poly!!
The states numbers are fully sunshine on both panels
Not a cloudy Day on mono Vs poly crystalin!!
Silicone is the rubbery stuff. Solar panels are made from the element "silicon".
So glad you said that. I did a word search and nobody seems to care.
Yeah that really disturbed me!
I have two 12 volt 20 watt solar panels that was given to me and for the longest time I got series and parallel confused but you just cleared it up for me.
Awesome! So glad it helped. 😎☀️🤙🏼
WTF is with the dislikes. That's a informative video. Good job Michael!
The dislikes are only 1% which makes up the small amount of freaks there are in the world, but is still discerning.
Probably because he keeps saying silicone
Dislikes come from oil selling pricks.
Big oil
That's the electric company employees... That's why.. 😁🤣😂
Thanks for presenting the brief on basics of solar panels
What’s the advantage of having more volts over amps or vice versa?
High voltage thin kabel, thick isolation, expensive charge controller. High amps the other way around.
Well, maybe it is a compliment to your presentation but to me, this is very simplistic mathematically and electronically. I am not sure why you say that it is confusing. I find it is so simple an elementary school child could do this. Thanks for the information on the difference between the types (Rigid/Flexible) panels. Great information on the comparison between warranty and ruggedness of the panels. Have a great day!
Awesome info thanks very much
I can't believe you explain this point so clear!.... I finally got it!! Thanks a LOT!
Thank you that was helpful.
Sir ... I am Shijan Joseph from India..Kerala. I get all the information from your video thank you so much ....sir
Thumbs up! Going solar on our next RV! More boondocking! Oh yea!
Yeah! Boondocking rocks!
Excellent, thank you! There are quite a few people who know how to do this, but presenting it in a manner that others can understand requires excellent communication skills on top of the technical skills. This is the first video of yours that I have watched, but you are so good at both I have to subscribe.
A lot to take in, but you explained it well. Thank you.
One thing you may have considered was to show side by side all 3 setups with the necessary wire and Controllers. You tend to over explain the easy stuff then under explain the stuff that matters.
You might probably cut down the length of your videos but just cutting to the chase and reducing redundancy such as:
Mono Poly Flexible
Series, Parallel, Series+Parallel Series,Parallel, Series+Parallel Series,Parallel, Series+Parallel
Watts, Volts, Amps, Wire, Controller Repeat for Poly & Flexible and of course efficiency and cost involved.
I totally get that you put a ton of work into your videos; that is very clear as your content is A+++++ Your redundancy however, could use a lot of work. Some folks don't realize they repeat themselves but using different words does not change the overall meaning that ends up being the same.
You clearly know infinitely more about Solar than I as I am still learning and have yet to invest in my first system. My Solar needs are small at the moment but will grow as I am able to afford upgraded equipment to expand. I've been researching and watching videos over the past several years now and I've found your videos to be of the most use thus far. Again your content is great it's just you tend to repeat yourself over and over and over which makes for a very long video.
When you over explain it's more akin to spoon feeding your content rather than just putting it out there and letting use eat it at our leisure or pace. Please do not take my comment as harsh but rather as a playful kick in the pants as I mean no harm. It might not be a bad idea to put what you would invest in as a baseline. You did mention that flexible panel with a high efficiency rating as an option but dollars to cents matter to most folks these days. Sure it would be nice to have our cake and eat it too plus pick out the toppings but Life is not like that many times... Cheers mate, keep up the great work....
It was really great n not confusing at all. May Allah the al migjty give u hidayah
Love from Pakistan
@c dawkins show some respect, your comment proves you are the childish one here.
Hello Justus, I am very impressed by the way you explain this concept of wiring solar panels both in series and parallel. Aside from the different classifications and benefits with disadvantages of types of panel. I have learned a great deal of knowledge. Respect Botherly!
Great information, thanks for sharing!
A few misconceptions but a well produced video nonetheless. Love the name lol
I did see in the comments someone saying that there are diodes across the panels to stop the shading loss, this is quite untrue, they are there to protect the panel from reverse currents which may destroy the panel. This is silicon and the way a solar array works is not dissimilar to a transistor.
I think the second misconception is that the panel has been taken as a single solar unit, whereas the panel is an array of cells, configured in series and parallel. Those cells that are shaded will of course not turn on and thus will not conduct and generate electricity.
A simplistic way to think of this, is in terms of there being a row of cells in series (~18-22), to give the panel Voltage, and rows of cells in parallel to give the current.
Now if you imagine that the top half of a panel is in shadow and the bottom half is not, then the panel will still generate a current albeit less than a full panel.
So if each row generates the Voltage, then covering a row up will turn the power off and any row in sun will generate power.
You can easily see this when you look at a panel. The cells are in a series and parallel matrix, so even if you cover a top corner of the panel, the rest of the cells will still generate power.
Hope this helps.
aahh ! ..The Value Of an Intentionally Intellilgent Learn'ed Mentality' ThankYou For Complimenting Our Intelligence By Valuing Yours' ! Greatly Informative and Well Spoken Via' a Most Competant Video ! Blessings Always To You🌈
Very helpful. Very well explained. I am a newbie with 1 Wynn video, and 2 by Will Prowse.
1) Probably time for an update (the technology incrementally changes)
2) You refer to your other videos in a series and then "as you already know". LInks, links
3) As you instructed, series wiring has advantages, but shading is a problem. What is the current state of the art in using both Bypass and Blocking Diodes to eliminate this limitation?
Thank you for the information
👏👍😉
Great video, no question about it. Nevertheless, I'd like to point out a few things I noticed:
1/ Error @ 15:20 - diagram should show 35V instead of 24V (in parentessis).
2/ The shading issue is even more pronounced by the fact that the cells in panels are usually wired in series, i.e. even one shaded cell can knock off the full panel.
3/ MPPT controllers have different efficiency with different input voltage. Usually, the higher voltage (70V) is more efficient (then 17.5V), but it depends on the controller rating.. I wouldn't consider PWM controllers at all.
This does not diminish the fact that your video is EXTREMELY detailed and thorough. Thank you.
The shading isn't that bad in series as he claims. Solar panels come with 2 or more bypass diodes. If part of the panel is shaded, the cells get bypassed so they can't kill the whole string. Only the shaded panel is down. The voltage for the string drops and if it gets too low, the efficiency of the inverter suffers.
This is a fantastic series. I know enough electrical and other things to be dangerous....LOL This series clarifies several things, but I will have a question or 2 later I am sure. Like how do I combine my solar input with other inputs to the battery such as converter with input from gen to be able to charge batteries quicker.?
Todd Ramsay : Same here! Teletype techie in the Army many years ago and a long-time PC gamer. This is right up my alley!
Thanks was so helpful 🙏👊
Where is a good website to buy solar panels and all the equipment . Also can you leave links. I want to solar power my home
Hey! I just posted a video on our personal solar panel setup and here is a link to the eBay seller I purchased my panels from (goo.gl/WdPnn5). Hope this helps!
reptiles miami www.wholesalesolar.com
glad you mentioned mixed-pairing (series & parallel grouping) because i was gonna be like: "you don't have to ONLY do one or the other...you can mix the two methods" but...you did mention it in the end
Silicone is something you put in a chalking gun. Silicon is a semiconductor found in solar panels. Just saying.
true true....
he also got supply and demand wrong.
Yes, but some are failing to the possible ramifications of new laws on both chalking and caulking guns. I also worry that some terrorist will find a way to mix silicon with silicone and then add both of those to sillyputty and then well, I don't even have explain the rest. Now do I?🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Err..I think it's caulking.
silicone is sand
Thanks a lot, this is genuine video i have ever seen among more than 50 videos on solar science, very calm and peaceful environment u gave, last part which is both model put together is confusing for me, its 11:50 pm here in india and watching this video make me feel great,once again thanks
Very good explanation of parallel vs series, thanks!
He keeps saying "silicone" but he means "silicon." Silicone (long "o" sound) is the squishy, soft gel; silicon (short "o" sound) is the hard, brittle element.
That was the best and most comprehensive explanation of solar I've seen to date. You set the bar very high with this video. Awesome job sir!
Adding solar to my boat has been a blast. Thank you for the education and sharing your experience.
Oh, and available today are systems that use either power optimizers or micro-inverters, both of which change the wiring possibilities along with removing restrictions in layout and remove shading issues. You should also be aware that the voltage and current are not fixed. An example factor in varying voltage is temperature, which can change significantly throughout the day. One other factor that should be considered is there are lots of factors that derate, or reduce, the current carrying capacity of wires and cables.
Great Video, and a very clever person, I tried to get my panel supplier to explain why I should connect them his way and I got baffled with jargon. Thanks for posting the video. Thumbs Up.
Wow the best video yet on explaining the amps, volts and watts. New subscriber thanks for your information you got me excited and I feel I have a much better understanding on solar panels. And probably can install them into my new RV when I buy one.
Thanks mate. You un-confused the confusing very well.
Very clear thank you for beautiful video from Zimbabwe 🇿🇼
Great tutorial that was made easy to understand & unlike many other videos, there was no waffling. Well done, appreciated. :)
great job of explaining series vs parallel
One of the best explanation. Great job 👍🏾👍🏾
GREAT JOB !!
I finally understand how all this series vs parallel stuff goes. Best and easiest to understand explanation I've ever seen !
Thank you, thank you, thank you.👏 👍👍
+Jeff S You are so welcome Jeff! Thanks for watching! 😊