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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2024
- Hey guys, if any of these links are broken please comment and let me know so I can fix it! This truck has been really fun. It's held together very well and we're loving it. Here's links to the few things we've changed so it'll be even more indestructible.
GEARING
46T Spur Gear (15/46 for non-stop 4S running)
amzn.to/2xtK041
14T Pinion Gear (14/54 for non-stop 6S running)
amzn.to/2Xw6oEv
20T Pinion Gear (20/46 for short bursts of 6S speed runs)
amzn.to/3acRyFW
CENTER DRIVE SHAFT OPTIONS
1. Upgraded Steel Center Drive Shafts
amzn.to/2XxFufB
2. Just the plastic piece that typically breaks
(hard to install but cheap)
amzn.to/2Vpxivg
3. If all else fails, find some old E-Revo/Revo 3.3 axles
amzn.to/2ycmEQu
FRONT BUMPER
amzn.to/2K12tHV
RPM PARTS
General Search of Amazon for RPM Parts for this truck
www.amazon.com/s?k=traxxas+e+...
Full Set of RPM A-Arms for E-Revo 2.0
www.ebay.com/itm/192974273140 (black)
Front Left RPM A-Arms only
amzn.to/3biQulf (black)
amzn.to/3b8Wgp8 (blue)
Front Right RPM A-Arms only
amzn.to/3b7lEvr (black)
amzn.to/2Vvj0cm (blue)
TRAXXAS HIGH TORQUE WATERPROOF SERVO 400-OZ
amzn.to/3a6c9eL
BATTERIES
I really like SMC, they change their stuff all the time, I can’t find on their website the 3S packs I bought a while ago. Here’s their Traxxas page link:
www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...
Here’s where I got my 4S 4500’s that fit pretty tight, but work.
hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-b...
I had to solder my own connectors on both sets of batteries. I use them for all sorts of applications so I use the Anderson Powerpole connectors so I can clip them together for some stuff, and not for others. amzn.to/34zlDhu - บันเทิง
![บุษบา - วงชานเมือง [LiveCoverVertion] Original : เมนทอล](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Dm81sKcd9rs/mqdefault.jpg)
Just got one and I love it. You can take this thing anywhere, now it's about finding spots worthy of its awesomeness--just happy with it.
Great vid, i have a Revo 3.3 so this is a great trick because I have 4 extra shafts. Nice work! 👍
Awesome video good info on the Erevo 2.0 great job thumbs up 👍
Thanks for this info, cool name bruh😂
Good vid u have a better review on these then anyone I know, anyway I don’t have Any problems yet with striping out the front a arms might just be your model? I really don’t know I just replaced my back right top and bottom a arm and the boots in the front
I did a quick fix on the ball joints pulling out of the arms first by wrapping the threads with Teflon tape, which worked for a little while. After they pulled out again I used super glue on the threads and that held pretty good for a long while.
That’s where I’m at also. I super glued them. When that fails, I’m going to use JB weld. I emailed rpm about the problem and they washed their hands of it, basically said it’s not their fault. So no replacement on my rpms that have also pulled out. I might try aluminum a-arms also but I don’t like that. Aluminum bends...
I let my boss drive my Erevo 2.0 and he somehow pulled out 2 pillow balls, I used super glue to screw them back in. I put a few drops down in the hole on the stock Traxxas arms and coated the threads of each pillow ball. It’s been 3 years and hasn’t even budged.
I've got the Revo 3.3 and a buddy has the E-Revo 2.0. I'm surprised you haven't had more issues with the rear toe links. The RPM rear arms work for the 2.0 with a small mod. I haven't been running my Revo as I need to install a new receiver and transmitter, Eliminate the optidrive, and quite possibly install better quality throttle servo. Those couple of things have kept me from using it. Anyways, the mod needed to be done to the rear arms is in the axle carriers/hubs. The bearing carrier needs opened up just so slightly to fit the larger bearings. The 2.0 uses bigger bearings than the 1.0 did. Just need a Dremel with a very small drum sanding bit and/or a step drill bit.
No attention span 😅😅 that cracked me up 😂
On the old shaft there should be a small e clip to take off to be able to slide the PIN out , I could be wrong though 🤔 it's been a while since I had to rebuild one
Awesome video thank you.
Hey Jethro😎💯 dope video here lots on info for non e revo users
Kinder fuming this show came to an end😊🫡😎🔥🔥
All you have to do is take the e clip off the one cross pin and then both cross pins just fall out of the u joint. No need to bend ears.
Nice vídeo! Subscribed!
I also have the same issues on my 2.0....
The RPM arms held the thread with use !?
By the way I also have a channel with videos and tips about Erevo.
I JB weleded my ball joints and I swear those are in there for good unless they shear off lol.
Good idea. I’m gonna do that too
I pop rear driveshafts in the smallest jump any ideas? so far stiffer springs, straps and rear brace. thanks
Guessing you are running in the tall pushrod configuration. Lower pushrod configuration helps that. Likely limiting straps aren't limiting enough. Personally I use 2 small o-rings under piston in shock instead of straps. Limits travel and dampens top out instead of yank when it hits limit of straps. Easier on rod ends
My E-Revo 2.0 slows down a bit after driving it for a few minutes. I was thinking battery issues but now I’m wondering if it’s getting too hot. Does this happen normally? I’m running 6S on stock truck.
It’s getting too hot if you can’t hold your fingers on the esc or motor. My guess is you are right, you’re over heating it and you need to gear it down for what you’re doing.
@@jethro450 thanks for the reply. I will look further into the overheating issue. I was assuming if the truck was overheating it would just totally stop.
Didn’t think I was going nuts with it either, normal driving really. Cooler outside temps as well. Snow driving a definitely didn’t think overheating.
@@dhaggard79 Now that you mention it, I bet your batteries are freezing and can't release their energy very well so the truck thinks the batteries are dead. That's exactly what happens with a low battery. Truck will go to about half power first. Then if you keep driving it, it'll stop. I bet you need new batteries. I have several old batteries that act like this when it's cold.
I have a question my e revo 2.0 is braking at very low speeds is this a common problem or what should i do
Not common. Not sure what to tell ya.
What should i do
So have you planned on running belted tires so they Dont balloon?see still factory tires.
That’s a great idea
@@jethro450 blue,red,black
@@bigmike1719 Cool! Back in the day when I was into speed runs I bought some carbon fiber string and wrapped the tires with it, then glued the string so it would hold. It actually worked super well! That was on asphalt thought, that wouldn't work bashing in the dirt.
Your motor hold up well? I burn 2 motors, never get overheated and always stock gearing. First make a horrible sound if you get full throttle on 6S, then the sound get more louder until the motor lockup. The brand new motor last 4 to 6 months.
Man I’ve never had a problem. I’ve had a motor last for over 8 years... I’m not sure what to tell ya if your gearing is good and the motor isn’t heating up
@@jethro450 i mean the E- Revo 2.0 motors
@@rchobbyer no issues so far. We’ve had them for over a year. My only guess is you’re getting water in the motor by washing it too much... but I don’t know if you’re even doing that.
@@jethro450 the motor never get water inside. Just running at 6S
I have such a problem putting the body on....lol
My front body mount is sooo close to the hood theres no room to slide itnin and get it locked in place. Im thinking of adding some washers to give me more space
i just got the 2.0 for christmas and it is tough to put on at times but i have a harder time with my rustler 4x4
I thought that it could only run 2S and 3S
My app shows the motor temp around 250 degrees F.
That’s way way too hot. Anything over about 180-200 and you’re damaging things.
@@jethro450 and for ESC what is the max temp?
@@CodySmiley same. I don’t let either esc or motor get over 150 on any of my stuff. Less than 120 is even better. Gear it so it stays below 120 and it’ll last forever.
I still strip my Rpm A Arms... I got mine used like that. Sad...
Wills Rc’s well that sucks
I just super glued that sucker back in the a arm
Also want to add that I run stock gearing still, and have never had a heat issue on 15/54 on 6s. You’d have been fine on stock gearing.
as far as servos go use savox i work at a hobby shop and everybody reccomends them the most i love traxxas but their servos are just too overpriced. Also nice trucks wish hot racing made some a arms for them, there the best for metal parts nothing else is even close i swear.
Agreed. I have lots of savox servos in other things and none have ever failed me
2023 update: just Sell it and buy a Traxxas Sledge, Had nothing but issues with my E-Revo 2.0
We haven’t had many issues with these at all. Still have and run both of them. Having said that, I’d love to try a sledge as well as the new big one, don’t recall it’s name at the moment. But I think I’d buy two of the new Losi rc motorcycles first before I bought anything else right now. Those look super fun.
Unnecessary jab at millennials at the end.
The best tip for the revo's is don't buy them they aren't durable and you have to buy every hop up imaginable to run them
This is a bit old for a reply but, since I’m assuming you’re an arrma fan, let’s compare the “must do” hopup list for the Kraton vs Erevo. Be honest here, what’s the longer list.