@THEtechKnight - Awesome Video first off! Thanks for sharing the tips and tricks on this odd ball one. Question, I have a JL 1000/1 v1 that when connected to 12v power instantly goes into: Low Volt protection mode. Any tips on where to start on that one? Have you seen this? I know you said you have done a bunch of v1 JL 1000/1s. Thanks for your time and help!
based on your videos that i've had the privilege to watch, I have a jl 1v2 that i'd love to have you look at and fix. please let me know if you are still doing this so that i can get prepped to ship you my amp.
is the silence at the end intentional? I think you can play up to 15 seconds of copyrighted stuff and they won't argue with you! :) Those capacitors: yes they sounded bad. But I had some which had the same bulged top and turned out it was a concave plastic disc installed on top. If you cut the shrink wrap, you can see whether the can is actually bulged or whether it's the plastic disk. I know you tapped on them and you'd expect to see the plastic flex - the one I encountered had this HARD plastic disk on top. Once removed, the alluminium can was perfectly flat! :)
Yeah unfortunately TH-cam muted that section because of copyright. The funny thing is I used no copyright music but I guess that's not really a thing. I don't actually have any music
@@shawnoestreich218 Who knows, could have been a revision change from run to run. I would stick with the 3707s. the output stage the 45N20s are EOL. You need to use the 4229s.
I have a Jl. 1500/1 and I'm getting solid red over temp code on my bench when I power it up immediately it gives that code I'm no Jl guru they are pretty tough to track the problem down but thru the speaker it makes a click click click click sound any ideas?
@@THEtechknight it has like 12 u have to pull them to test them the amp is new out the box listened to it for 1 hours then it turned of and gave red code with means thermal shut down and the out makes a click click click click sound non stop to the sub
@@THEtechknight u talking about the mosfets 3205f or the resistors with the color codes on the I did notice 1 of the 4 in a row was getting hit to the touch
@@JoshHolden-n3m None of that is relevant to the conversation, and my reply still applies here. You can blow up a brand new car like you can blow up a brand new amplifier. All it takes is bad loads, bad cabling/grounds, lots of variables. No, I am not talking about the IRF3205. I am talking about the OUTPUT transistors.
I don't run them up to full power with a full load myself, no as typically I do not have to. The person who I do these repairs for is a professional car audio installer and tuner, and he has all the proper setup for that. If it fails there, it comes back to me for additional repair.
@@THEtechknight well thank you for sharing your videos an experience you have already helped me fix 2 of my JL amps that have sitting collecting dust. I just need to practice much much more on my solder an desolder skills but either way u helped me fix a jl 450/4 an jl 1000/1 im a subscriber for life!
@THEtechKnight - Awesome Video first off! Thanks for sharing the tips and tricks on this odd ball one. Question, I have a JL 1000/1 v1 that when connected to 12v power instantly goes into: Low Volt protection mode. Any tips on where to start on that one? Have you seen this? I know you said you have done a bunch of v1 JL 1000/1s. Thanks for your time and help!
based on your videos that i've had the privilege to watch, I have a jl 1v2 that i'd love to have you look at and fix. please let me know if you are still doing this so that i can get prepped to ship you my amp.
is the silence at the end intentional? I think you can play up to 15 seconds of copyrighted stuff and they won't argue with you! :)
Those capacitors: yes they sounded bad. But I had some which had the same bulged top and turned out it was a concave plastic disc installed on top. If you cut the shrink wrap, you can see whether the can is actually bulged or whether it's the plastic disk. I know you tapped on them and you'd expect to see the plastic flex - the one I encountered had this HARD plastic disk on top. Once removed, the alluminium can was perfectly flat! :)
Yeah unfortunately TH-cam muted that section because of copyright. The funny thing is I used no copyright music but I guess that's not really a thing. I don't actually have any music
I have a JL slash 1200/1 v3 and my slope switch is malfunctioning. I can use your help/ advice. Thank you.
Spray some deoxit into the switches and work them a bit, that should fix it
@@THEtechknighthow can I contact you i have the exact same amp. My power cable on my battery kept coming off now the amp light just flashing
Question. Where can I purchase the power supply lug. The Allen screw block broke and would like to find another one
About three years to finish a project. That's about my average too!
Just about.... And it's due to the semiconductor shortage. Trying to get the proper transistors to get these things working have been impossible
Hello sir I have the same amp and was wondering if you could take a look at it and possibly repair for me.
What are the transistors for power supply and output channel of the JL audio 1000/v2
Outputs are irfb4229, power are irf3205
@@THEtechknightok so the 2 JL audio 1000/v2 I have both of them have irf3707 in power supply and output channel has SSP45n20 these safe to use
@@shawnoestreich218 Who knows, could have been a revision change from run to run. I would stick with the 3707s. the output stage the 45N20s are EOL. You need to use the 4229s.
So did adding a load clear up the ringing?
It did.
I have a Jl. 1500/1 and I'm getting solid red over temp code on my bench when I power it up immediately it gives that code I'm no Jl guru they are pretty tough to track the problem down but thru the speaker it makes a click click click click sound any ideas?
Check the output transistors. One or more are probably shorted.
@@THEtechknight it has like 12 u have to pull them to test them the amp is new out the box listened to it for 1 hours then it turned of and gave red code with means thermal shut down and the out makes a click click click click sound non stop to the sub
@@THEtechknight u talking about the mosfets 3205f or the resistors with the color codes on the I did notice 1 of the 4 in a row was getting hit to the touch
@@JoshHolden-n3m None of that is relevant to the conversation, and my reply still applies here. You can blow up a brand new car like you can blow up a brand new amplifier. All it takes is bad loads, bad cabling/grounds, lots of variables. No, I am not talking about the IRF3205. I am talking about the OUTPUT transistors.
I see your test voltage at 13.2v how many amps or what current are you running or do you run to test these amps?
I don't run them up to full power with a full load myself, no as typically I do not have to. The person who I do these repairs for is a professional car audio installer and tuner, and he has all the proper setup for that. If it fails there, it comes back to me for additional repair.
@@THEtechknight well thank you for sharing your videos an experience you have already helped me fix 2 of my JL amps that have sitting collecting dust. I just need to practice much much more on my solder an desolder skills but either way u helped me fix a jl 450/4 an jl 1000/1 im a subscriber for life!
I have a JL 1,000 / 1 that needs repairing could you send me your information
I have a v1 with low to no output