ไม่สามารถเล่นวิดีโอนี้
ขออภัยในความไม่สะดวก
SIMPLIFY YOUR EXPOSURE | 6 REASONS TO ALWAYS SET YOUR CAMERA TO 400 ISO
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2022
- If your a novice or a pro, simplifying your exposure settings let’s you focus on more important things, like taking a good picture.
The three variables of ISO shutter speed and aperture are more than we need to cope with.
What if I said “set ISO to 400 and forget it exists”? I explain the freedom it will bring to your photography. Head to my website at www.filnenna.com and every picture you see was shot at ISO 400 without exception.
This video shows the 6 reasons my digital AND film cameras are always set to 400.
DISCLAIMER: If you buy through the affiliate links in this description, I may receive a small commission at no additional charge to you. I appreciate your support of this channel!
What's in my camera bag?
Canon 5D mark IV: amzn.to/3xSgyAW
SanDisk 128GB Extreme pro SD card: amzn.to/3LecK2f
My Lights;
Flashpoint eVolve 200 | Godox AD200: amzn.to/3QAmlBI
Flashpoint XPLOR 400PRO TTL | Godox AD400 pro: amzn.to/3DdXtwt
Godox X2T-C 2.4G Wireless Flash Trigger Transmitter Compatible with Canon: amzn.to/3B3GkTs
Website & Social;
Website: www.filnenna.com
Instagram: / filnenna
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.79[1/2] แก๊งไทบ้านพาบุกเมืองบั้งไฟโก้ ยโสธรรรร!!!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ldr3_fvTEXk/mqdefault.jpg)
What are your tips on simplifying your camera settings?
Thank you for your video and sharing advices. It will be interesting if you do a video for the triangle.
th-cam.com/video/OTTGI6ZEsZM/w-d-xo.html
Dumb the camera down to the very minimum needed to create art. Forget about all those extra placebo settings the photography industry jams in a camera to raise prices and stick with one lens until you dominate everything about it!
I feel guilty to use Auto ISO a lot. On my Fujifilm Xt2 & Xt3 I can program 3 different sets of Auto ISO, each connected with minimum shutter speed, e.g.:
Set #1: increase ISO if shutter speed would go lower than 1/15 -- for not moving objects like landscapes, town scapes in the morning and so on. use stabilized standard zoom
Set #2: increas ISO if shutter speed would go lower than 1/60 - not moving objects while I use a wide angle lens or my stabilized tele zoom
Set #3: increase ISO if shutter speed would go lower than 1/250 - people photography and / or use of my unstabilized prime lenses
For landscapes, my go to aperture is 6.4 for sharpness (APS-C sensor) and 9 to 11 if I need more depth of field
For people, I like using f1.4 to f2.0 for isolation / bokeh. I learned that very often f1.4 is too much, only one eye sharp!
Handheld photometer, always (photometers do not "read the exposure" but measure the light). ISO 320. f:6,3 with studio flashes and set the power of the lamps to this value.
I absolutely love your videos, for the content but also for the calm moderation. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the feedback. Comments like this keep me going!
HELLO FIL!
I really enjoyed your video and what you do! Recently took your advice and did an experiment, we shoot with an Olympus E-500 with External Flash 1/250 f.8
at 400 ISO. EV Compensation is +2 points. Picture was nice, the Histogram showed image exposed properly! Did the same experiment with Auto ISO and the picture came out dark! So in my situation where we Photograph Rock Bands that are pretty much stationary with a little bit of movement by the drummer and colored LCD Stage Lights everywhere!
Manual 400 ISO is the preferred setting!
YES! I learned this lesson a half-century ago in the "analog world." When I was a young college student at LACC -- and a journalist in the Naval Reserve (just off of 3.5 years of active duty, including Vietnam), one of our college instructors took us to visit the L.A. Times. I was fascinated by the photo department and what their photographers used: nothing but Kodak Tri-X, ASA 400 film. They used just D-76 to develop it, and Dektol to make all the prints (forget the paper). That's it -- for everything they did. They could "push" the film one way or the other (for the entire roll) and tweak development if they had to, and they could adjust exposures under the enlarger, but they minimized -- actually eliminated -- the ASA variable (now it's called ISO) by sticking to one film type for all shooting in all environments. And they took many, many award-winning photographs , some of which they enlarged to small poster size and framed around the office. They were stunning and illustrated just how creative they could be by minimizing variables and concentrating on composition (with only shutter speed and aperture to set) to illustrate a news shot! Of course, this was in the old-fashioned "analog world." I've watched some photographers swear by leaving ISO to automatic. I like your technique of leaving it at the sweet spot of 400 (worked so well in the analog world -- and still does in the digital world). Leaving ISO to automatic or setting it to 400 are valid, especially when you're working quickly and need to make seat-of-the-pants exposure settings quickly to get a job done. That leaves only the shutter speed and aperture settings to adjust. Thanks for sharing!
I’m learning more about ISO and reevaluating my understanding of the exposure triangle. I’ve always liked ISO 400.
Glad you found it useful! Though I have some warnings about the exposure triangle...th-cam.com/video/-oCZ8QBMgIA/w-d-xo.html
Excellent advice. I used Tri-X in my film days, settled on ISO 400 in my early MFT days, and now use ISO 640 or 800 depending on the actual camera I'm carrying and my likely lighting problems to solve when I'm out on a day. I confess to sometimes using auto-iso along with aperture priority to turn every image I consider into the very simple, single problem of DoF.
And, just to answer your question: I confess to sometimes using auto-iso along with aperture priority to turn every image I consider into the very simple, single problem of DoF. And, THE one major simplification action I regularly depend on is to try as best as possible to stick to my go-to prime lens field of view - 50mm on full frame.
Thanks for sharing your experience with great comments....as a hobbyist I just leave my ISO on auto & not worry about it ..... however your advice is worth trying.... thanks & cheers...😀
Glad you found it interesting! Question everything, hold on to what is good. Auto ISO works very well for a lot of people.
I will also try that!
Great video with a lot of great tips. Something I've usually stuck to as well. I tend to stick with ISO 800 on my camera as the noise is still plenty acceptable and I get those faster shutter speeds which are needed at longer focal lengths.
This was useful and refreshing. Thank you
I’ve been doing this for a while but I choose 640 because Fuji and Sony have a dual gain at this speed so the images are cleaner than 400.
A7 IV has it as two stops above native, which means that ISO 400 is the second gain stage.
Really love this channel. Your videos are always like a photography masterclasses!
Thanks - I appreciate it!
Even with APS-C cameras, ISO 400 is not too much. I admit I get grain with my Fujifilm cameras even at ISO 200 / ISO 160, but i don't care! I have discovered that grain does not make a photo worse; very often it makes the pic even better as it adds texture.
On my cams, I always set Noise Reduction to the very minimum! - Works fine. For me.
Fuji gang! love my Fujifilm cameras and let's be honest, their noise is one of the most pleasant to look at out there! They do a really good job at making it look almost like film grain so I really can't complain haha
Interesting. Will have to watch this again and test it out. Thanks
Would love to know if it works for you, or if you find a different way to simplify things.
Thanks Fil ! This was excellent. Will try it out. Btw love your clean images !
Glad you found it interesting!
Nice bit of advice, as I'm thinking of using a totally manual lens as part of my kit. Thanks for that.
No worries - glad it was useful! Manual lenses are great - zone focusing might be another time saver depending on the type of photography you do.
Thanks I going to try using 400 on my digital and film stock.
Hello, thanks for your video. I am interested in how a real exposure triangle works. Thanks.
Thanks I will try how this works for me.
this tip is good for controlled environment and lighting, I'm doing events photography and I need to take photos of moving people in moderate to low light, natural, artificial light and most of the time I need a high shutter speed so my ISO is the one constantly changing
Thanks Ronald. Events and weddings are a different beast and heading to more automated methods is the sensible thing to do for a lot of photographers. Great point.
Excellent! Thank you!
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Really glad I stumbled with your channel. Great content! #iso400gang
You can shoot ISO 400 at the ISO 800 setting. You have to shoot the whole roll that way, then just write what you did on the envelope and the lab will compensate. One stop doesn't look too grainy.
Always make sure to ask if the lab does pushing/pulling of film. Not a single one of the 3 labs in my area does it unfortunately, so I'm stuck at developing 400 film at 400, unless I decide to develop it myself at home.
this is a technique I use regularly when I'm on the go. however I still drop my iso when I'm working in carefully staged environments. great video great advise.
Glad to hear it. I appreciate the comment, Carlos!
Set your ISO to 400 and forget it. Wow! 1975 revisited. Kodak came out with ISO 400 color film when I was in high school. It was the beginning of low light photography.
As much as I love shooting film, I can't imagine a world before 400 where asa100 was the fast stuff!
@@FilNenna I remember an advertisment at the beggining of the 70's in a photography magazine, an advertisment by fujifilm about their new film with ISO 100/21 (100 ASA then), the marketing argument were something like: "you can photograph the indiscretions of your friends in indoors with this new film"....
I’ve started doing it a year ago and quick realized how liberating it is!
That’s brilliant! What types of photography do you do?
@@FilNenna Thanks! I shoot on digital cameras, mostly event and documentary photography. Last year I switched from Sony to Fujifilm digital cameras and re-learned photography process all over again. I love how Fuji cameras function - just like old school film cameras - you’ve got your aperture, your shutter speed. And because it’s digital - of course you have variable ISO. However I set my ISO at 800 because at this setting you get the highest dynamic range value. And I practically NEVER change from 800. Thanks for the video!
Nice one Fil, nailed it!
Appreciated! Is this something you do too?
@@FilNenna Yep, learn't it from starting with film. And yes totally in manual mode! The clever bit was pulling and pushing🤪
Interesting idea.
Interesting video - thanks for sharing your experience. Great to see film featuring too - all to often it is referred to as "we used to" or "it used to be like this". I use film still just because I like it and also shoot with Hasselblad. I did a dog show for a fund raiser recently with Kodak Portra 400, and just as you describe, I took a reading once of the outdoor light with my Sekonic, set the lens, and then just clicked away all day. All of it came out bang on.
Glad to hear it! I like switching between digital and film even during a single session. I can't imagine doing one without the other!
@@FilNenna agreed it’s useful to have both. The problem I have is that having done things with both mediums before, like weddings, the subsequent workflows feel more complicated. I have to get film developed and scanned and then sequence that in with the all the digital post processing. Then I look at certain images and wish I’d shot the frame in film for reason a b or c etc. So for the last 12 years or so I just simplified it by deciding to do it all in film. I also can’t afford digital hasselblads which is another factor!!!
@@tedsmith_photography That's awesome! And there's the added advantage that even the digital Hasselblad sensors are nowhere near as big as 6x6. There are still no digital equivalents of a lot of forgotten film technology.
@@FilNenna I didn't know that (about the 6x6 factor for digital blads)...I'll stop obsessing over owning a CF50 back one day...lol. Yes, for all its expensie these days, I can still get rolls of Ilford PanF 50 in 120 for about £6 each and develop it myself and scan it myself. So, although over time those costs add up, and shooting Ektachrome etc is an expensive doo, I'll continue with my film shooting for a while yet I think. Nice talking with you. WOuld be great to see more videos featuring film stuff (the useful kind, though - not another of these reviews of film type A B or C from someone who shot it for the first time yesterday!)
That aperture opening and closing technique does magical things! I learned it from my opa back in the 80’s.
I some times use iso 800 5.6 120 or 60 cause i use tt600 godox flash, one thing i have learnt is they are certain environments where you do nkt need to boker cause it kills beautiful environments
I completely agree. Getting more depth of field requires a great deal of technical and compositional insight. That’s what the f64 club set out to do.
I use ISO 800 on my A7 cameras (IV and II) when using bounce flash to simplify the experience. I use ISO 200 or 400 for off-camera flash so that I do not drain the flash batteries and capacitors too quickly. Everything else is Auto ISO.
Thank you.
You are very welcome.
damn, gotta try that. i have a a7iv, which seemingly has dual gain iso. first gain stage being 100, and second one being 400. so 400 actually has less noise than say 320.
I understand where you're coming from, but I disagree that iso is not a creative control. It is indirectly creative.
Changing the iso will allow you to get the shutter/aperture combination that you want, if you lock it at 400 you wont have as much creative control over shutter speed/aperture.
Also, moderne sensors (not film) have the highest dynamic range at their base iso, which is usually around their 100 mark. You'll get a better result under exposing your image two stops intentionally at base iso and then raising the exposure two stops in post, than setting it to 400 in camera.
Agreed Jacob - thanks for the comments. What sort of photography do you do?
There is an exemption to this with some cameras/sensors. For example, the newer Fujifilm cameras have an option called "DRange" for Dynamic Range and it's basically a safety feature that helps avoid highlight clipping in overexposed areas of an image. The interesting thing is that the higher your "DR" value is- the better your highlights will be protected. But in exchange, the higher the ISO (up to 400) the camera will shoot at. This is something that you wouldn't get with an image shot at base ISO of 125 (for a Fuji camera) unless you fiddle with the highlights in your RAW file and still won't probably get as much detail from them. I also believe handling ISO 400 is cakewalk for modern cameras and the dynamic range will barely be affected by it.
@@visualsofisa fuji user here too, i always set my ISO to 800. That allows me to use this Dynamic Range Tool in 400% and adds a little bit of nice grain to the b/w pics:)
Let's talk Auto ISO and Exposure Bracketing. No, this doesn't apply to all, but for me it works best. The issue with Auto ISO is that now instead of adjusting ISO, we're adjusting Exposure Compensation. Still a 3rd dial to move. Even so, using Auto ISO provides a greater chance of getting a shot when you're not prepared. That's the point. Maybe the shot becomes a little over/underexposed, but the reason the settings aren't quite right is because I didn't have the time to adjust. But I got the shot. If I had time to adjust shutter speed, I would have time to adjust ExpComp instead. But if I have no time at all, Auto ISO is more likely to get me the shot. If I Exposure Bracket all my shots appropriately, then I'm HIGHLY likely to catch a moment even if I'm totally unprepared since the camera took 3-5 exposures of different ISO values to choose from.
In full Manual, I almost always have to adjust something to get a usuable shot when lighting changes. With Auto ISO I don't always need to adjust, add in Exposure Bracketing and I rarely need to adjust anything to get a decent shot. If I'm taking a picture of something stationary at 1/80 shutter speed in the shade, and I turn around to capture a bird in the sun, I not only need to get my shutter speed to at least 1/500, I also need to adjust ISO accordingly. My way, all I need to do is set shutter speed and one of my Exposure brackets will get close enough. In full manual, I take longer and might miss the shot.
This is exactly what I do on my Fuji. Set it to 400iso and don't touch it. It's more like shooting film!
Yeah, worth trying. At least when I use flash!
what about auto ISO , setting a maximum and minimum ISO ?
Just like in full auto, auto-iso is fooled by the tone of what your camera is pointing at. Reflected light. Incident light measurements are more useful. For that you need a light meter, rule of thumb or trial and error.
What about simply using an auto iso setting? You still would only have to care about shutter speed and aperture in this case.
You need to also account for the exposure compensation dial then. That means 3 settings to fiddle with for each exposure while what he is talking about here is for only 2 control dials for your exposure, just shutter speed and aperture. Having it on auto iso doesn't mean you'll leave it there and click away. If you do that the camera's meter is deciding the exposure for you. You need to keep controling the exp dial which essentially it becomes the iso dial when we are doing that. If we happen to agree with the auto iso value the camera is giving to us for a specific scene then fine, we don't need to change that and we only adjust shutter speed and aperture. But if you're an experienced photographer that's rarely the case and you'll most definitely change the iso through the exp dial when in auto iso for pretty much every scene.
Yes but😊 it depends...
As a Kodachrome lover my sweet spot was 25-32 asa
Nice - I bet you have some techniques for shooting on darker days and indoors.
@@FilNenna 😆 of course K25 was not a do it all film, but I miss it.
400 iso for everything is a very good solution☝
Not true, at least for old school photography (and most relatively “low end” cameras) - iso has been tweaked up even when not needed to create a grainy b&w picture. I use it from time to time. I guess the counter to that is that you can introduce it in post. Thing is, I hate doing that. I get the picture right ooc.
Problem is, when you’re in a tough lighting situation (which is most of the time outside). You want a lot of depth of field and you also want to freeze the action. I find AUTO ISO is the best. Just let it do whatever it is.
ISO is a film issue. We don’t have to worry about it in digital. Just set your AUTO ISO settings and then forget it.
Another great way to simplify things - I appreciate your comment. It does add some complication at the same time though.
Auto ISO swaps the ISO decision for an exposure compensation one. Now you have to think about metering modes, where to meter, direction and magnitude of compensation and then you get whatever ISO your camera gives you, clean or noisy. Auto ISO is great if it fits your workflow, style or genre.
@@FilNenna not in my experience. The camera gets the exposure correctly 90% of the time and it chooses the ISO (I have a limit set to ISO3200 and shutter speed 1/250). For daytime shooting this is all I need. I set the aperture and shutter speed. I can just leave the shutter speed on A and this will only have me worrying about aperture 90% of the time. If I set the ISO at 400 and “forget it” this is going to create all sorts of issues. I don’t have time for that. Aperture priority really is the best thing when you’re walking around and taking photos. The only time I’ve had to set a rigid ISO and shutter speed is when I’m shooting video.
I don’t need exposure compensation. If needed I can just grab the shutter speed dial or the aperture and change it at any time. Noise is really irrelevant. When you want to control all that sure if you have time you can worry about all those settings.
being stuck at an ISO setting really is a film problem.
I don’t do shortcuts and hope for the best. I always manually adjust my iso, speed, and aperture no excuses. I was thought that having control of those 3 settings can make your knowledge more versatile. I don’t care if i took as twice longer to set up my camera as long as i know that i have complete control over my exposure. Experimenting is the key to better undertand lighting exposures, don’t get stuck into one setting.
Fair points.
With portraiture, I don't see simplifying exposure as a shortcut - its a way to make the camera a lower priority than interacting with the subject, maintaining momentum, analyzing compositions and emphasizing the lighting.
With landscapes or still life, you are spot on with your comment.
Why not do auto iso no higher than 400 and you have the best of both worlds
Yes, please 🙏🏼 show us how the real exposure triangle work! School us all almighty! 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Why not just leave the ISO on auto and pretend it doesnt exist?
Me when ISO: Auto
On film cameras, ISO400 can be good advice for beginners, casual point and shooters, people with terrible lenses, and for any photographer who want to travel light and need a general purpose film to use throughout the day... However, for anyone who really wants to really dive into film photography I'd suggest a different method... Good lenses are expensive, (most) bodies are not... Just use multiple bodies as interchangeable backs. That way you'll not only be able to change the ISO, but also adjust the look and feel of your film. Ektar for scenaries , Portra for your girlfriend. When travelling, I always take (at least) 2 bodies; Typically one with ISO100/160 color film for daylight and other with ISO800/3200 BW film for night time.
IMHO its wasteful to use ISO400 film at beach. Better bokeh, better image quality, finer grain can be achieved with an ISO100 film.. Its also stupid to push your luck with an ISO400 film at a bar during a show. Did just that last month, it wasn't fun at all with proper exposures stayed around 1/25 with my fastest (f/2) aperture. I had to underexpose by 1 stop to at least get to 1/50 so that everything would not end up a blurry mess.
For digital cameras this advice, IMO, is just wrong. I am not saying having a favourite/default ISO is a bad habit, but I don't see how setting a digital camera to 400 or any single ISO would *simplify* anything. By doing that, you'll have to constantly watch your shutter going too high or low whenever you are playing with your aperture or vice-versa. If you are at or near the techical/pratical capabilities of your equipment, you'll have to watch out for your exposure as well. If you want to REALLY simplify shooting process, just set it on Auto ISO with a big range like 100-6400 and set a minimum shutter speed you are (very) comfortable. That way, camera will up its ISO if it can't open up the lens more than what its capable of. I won't say "then you can forget all about exposure", but it would be a lot more simpler than sticking to a single ISO. Setting a static ISO would only make sense when using flash, but then why not bump up the flash output a little and use 100 ISO to get the best image quality?
ISO 400 works in certain situations, true. I mainly photograph landscapes and have fiddled with ISO for years and have found that if I use anything higher than ISO 100 (or 80 if the camera is capable of that), I get unwanted noise and obviously less sharpening forcing me to correct for both noise and sharpening in post-processing. Using ISO 400 prohibits perfect shots SOOC. Your advice might be good for absolute beginners using point-and-shoot cameras for snapshots, but it is certainly not useable advice for users of a DSLR.
After watching this video, I realized that I not only love mirrorless for their wonderful contribution to society by destroying DSLRs but also for it eliminating the last remnants of external light meters.
auto iso is better