@@Project-Air The simplest way to eliminate water slosh upsetting the balance is to fill the water bottle with sponge. It will absorb the water and what does pool in the bottom won't be able to move fore and aft.
@@Project-Air Your submarine reminds me of the one made by Brick Experiment Channel, cos it is made using everyday household components. :) I like this ingenuity. 10/10
This is so cool. Was thinking a lot about building an FPV sub. And I run into same problems with water and data transfer in my head. I would try and just expose antenna to the air on a really small and light floater using very thin wire. Tangling could be a problem in that case, so I thought about some sort of antenna wire tension/retraction system. Not sure if there are antenna wire length-related problems, tho. Also, 3rd motor oriented to up/down axis and with some pitch control would give it much more maneuverability and control in tight spaces. And could compensate for most of the boyuancy problems.
To see how a simple design can succeed is amazing. Thanks. And you can prevent the water tilting your bottle by prefilling the bottle with cotton wool. Wishing you great success with future plans and your channel.
The collab I didn't realize I needed in my life! Awesome content between the two of you. I love how the two of you approach the challenge so differently.
Great video! Add a 'trailing floating wire antenna" for the RC TX/RX. Make it buoyant and long and some portion of it will float on the surface, even when at depth. (BTW, That's what real submarines do)
Humm... I didn't thought about the sloshing water, I did for the cable, it was huge. Some notes. For water sloshing, have you considered using foam or a more dense than air material that can be fixed? I also thought about peristaltic pump and a bladder for better buoyancy control, for Diy perk's sub, turns out I wasn't analyzing his project correctly again. On communications, a thin USB cable could be a decent tender. However I would consider just a long antenna cable attach to a buoy. My thought being, just use a long wire, however it has problems with impedance, so just a long coaxial cable sound safe to me. If only submarines weren't expensive, a relay fleet sound like fun headache.
I like the idea of the floating antenna. Indeed coax cable will be needed. But for sure: waterproofing a cable will be a challenge. Even in military size subs they still have a challenge in communication
@@nou5440 I've seen some experimentation for ultrasonic used for communications so I'm definitely curious if that would work reliably in their small creeks/ponds
Ive Watched lots of these kind of vids But I've never seen someone so entertaining the sad thing is not that many people watch him as he deserves Respect to this man keep up the good work 💪
Doesn't at all surprise me that Matt's solution was completely over-engineered. But, then, that's why I love his channel. Your solution, whilst definitely simpler, was still great.
Immediately after watching Matt's video I came to your channel, didn't see any thing related😞, since then I've been expecting yours. This is very nice, expecting a 2nd part.
Great work! Really interested to see if you find any success with the low frequency stuff. I've heard you can "potentially" get up to 30-40m in fresh water for basic controls with the right conditions at 27/40mhz. Video transmission may prove to be much more difficult or perhaps simply limited by bandwidth and/or physics, but I'd love to see your results regardless! (btw there's no link to Matt/DIY Perks video in the description as of writing this comment)
If you want it to go deeper tan a meter or two, it will need to be tethered. Or you could use something using sound as a transmission medium, but I don't think a lot of people managed to do that... Great job
Keep it up with the sub content. I have been working on the design for mine for awhile and love seeing it on TH-cam. All of the off the shelf subs are junk and really intended as toys.
I love this video would love to see you improve for deeper dives and more controllability. Would love more details on the build also so I could build myself at home.
Very cool project! I love the underwater cameras because the of the shelf ones are so expensive. A bottom scouring drone finding buried treasures seems appealing to me. Nice work as always.
1:08 Some brushless motors are, but most, and very clearly those, are not, it's just that motors don't mind water, brushed motors work fine too. Properly waterproof motors are useful when going into dirty water though, since you don't want it getting jammed with crap.
Same with the servo, some conformal coating on the control board is all you would've needed for it to "stay unfried" as you said, you do want to waterproof it properly though to keep it running smoothly of course, water is not a great gearbox lubricant.
Only the Max 8 and Max 6 G2S motors use fully sealed bearings on the ends of the motor, as well as a rubber gasket on both ends. All other motors which say they are waterproof will eventually get intrusion of water and rust out those two bearings. Yeah, the windings and stuff are waterproof, but only those Max 8 and 6 second generation sensored motors use the gaskets and the sealed bearings. So, you can have your "waterproof" motors bearings get water damage, because all other motors use shielded, not sealed bearings. Possibly the max 10 G2S uses that same protection, but I don't one one, so don't take my word on the Max 10 waterproofing. That's why, for the 7 people in the world that actually read the instructions, you'll see a couple of paragraphs about the "waterproof" ability relying on the end user dismantling and drying and relubricating metal parts to be necessary for actual prevention of water damage. Swim at your own risk, sharks in the water, jellyfish, sunburn, whatnot etc etc...
The trick to low frequency data transmission ( for the video ) is that you have to broadcast the data over a spectrum of frequencies because the max data rate will always be frequency/2. So basically you end up transmitting 1/10th of the data on each frequency, but you transmit on 10 different LF frequencies and recombine the signal at the receiver. I don't know for sure, but I think that the Navy uses a lot LF transmissions for underwater coms.
Hey please do a part two. I know im kinda late writing this but hear me out. Ive got some ideas; - Put all the electronics inside fore a more hydrodynamic body because you will still be able to move center of gravity around and by sticking everything with velcro to a big sliging platform you will be able to make fine ajustments and still be abe to reach to it wheen troubleshooting. - Cut the cap of so you only have half of a metal bottle and 3d print a big lid mith hydrodynamic form. - And make the big cable smaller by using a ethernet cable and choose a light and flexible one. The batteries for the motors can be stored inside for more weight - The syringes should remain for balancing I hope you will read this and let me know what you think of these ideas Love your content
Hmm, as an alternative to completely filling the main bottle with water, fill it so it is neutral then weigh that water. Mix up some epoxy to that weight and put THAT in the water bottle (sitting level). Once the epoxy cures it won't be moving. Then you could probably use smaller syringes for trimming the buoyancy. You could also make a 1 or 2 meter long 4 wire tether going to a foam float with the antenna for the RC and FPV mounted on the float.
I think the problem with using a water bottle as a ballast is that the submarine design isn't always going to be level, unlike DIY Perks' design which doesn't pitch forward or back. With yours, once you pitch forward or back, the water will go to the furthest point in the direction your pitched in, making it really difficult to pitch the other way. We could see that when you tilted your sub down, it never levelled out again. This wasn't a problem with DIY Perks, as his submarine was designed to be symmetrical, meaning it's CoM is in the middle constantly. If it was to tilt in a direction though, it'd probably be able to recover, as his has two dynamically weighted ballasts, meaning it could go back to the surface and level out, or make one side lighter than the other to level out and then equalize the weight once level.
On board power with a very light tether (cat6) seems to work best. Add weights/foam nodes on the tether to make it neutrally buoyant. Another option that might be cool for control (not video) would be to play with a sonic pulsing transmitter/receiver set up and a light weight video cable. I think combining the two set ups would be ideal though. A light weight, neutrally buoyant control cable connected to a float which has radio on it so the cable would be for depth only. I love the VR helmet set up. I would add a heavy fishing line (In the U.S. we hall it 80 pound test) tether to the float for easy recovery. For power look into the tubular battery packs some cordless tools have. I wold also mount the two main motors on the fin controllers you originally had so you can change the pitch to look at something with out moving from where you are. I love the video and wish I could do things like this myself. Thank you.
6:50 You could have partially filled it with jelly that was equal in volume to the water that was in there. That way it wouldn't have moved regardless of pitch.
My thought was use epoxy equal to the weight of the water. The same volume of jelly (or epoxy) would weigh more than the same amount of water I believe.
Use CAN bus modules and Arduinos for control to greatly reduce your control cable issue. Only a twisted pair of wires required: Can Bus max data rate vs wire length 1 Mbit/Sec - 40 meters (131 feet) 500 kbits/Sec - 100 meters (328 feet) 100 kbits/Sec - 500 meters (1640 feet) 50 kbits/Sec - 1000 meters (3280 feet)
I used to race sailboats around flags on lakes. To keep the flags in one place we built them with a concrete anchor (plastic jug with a handle filled with concrete), and tied a 10 feet (roughly 3 meters) of polypropylene rope (the yellow stuff) to the anchor. The flag was 10 feet of 4-inch PVC pipe sealed at the bottom but with a hole for an eye bolt. We tied 10 feet of polyester rope to the pipe. The pipe was partially filled with sand so it would bob in the water with the flag end up. Polyester rope sinks to keep from fouling boat propellers and rudders, and polypropylene rope floats (to keep from fouling on the bottom of the lake). The rope in the middle didn't matter as much. So if you wanted to make a floating marker tethered to your submarine, you could do something similar. Below 10 feet deep there's not much to see until you get to the bottom. Adjust your rope accordingly. Our lake was 130 feet deep near the dam, so we needed about 200 feet total for our purpose.
>Change your bottle with wide open cap, >Put your electronics inside that bottle, >Use air balloons and sand packets for correct buoyancy and leveling.
Although Mats sub looks more sophisticated and closer the real submarines, your idea is simpler and cheaper to build ....which is amazing... plus, the size of your submarine is quite small.
Great project! I wonder if you could stuff the bottle full of bits of torn up sponge so the water won’t be able to slosh around and is just absorbed into the sponge.
The deep sea submersible *Trieste* used gasoline in float chambers. Gasoline probably isn't a good option in this example but maybe vegetable oil could be used.
This is Awsome. Just recently discovered your channel. Great vids over all. Impressive. Im really looking forward to the next video involving some kind of rocket engine
Aha! well it's good to see the companion video. I came in from the DIY Perks video. Great builds both. I'm amazed at how you waterproofed the RC gear, I've not seen that done before. Although DIY Perks' sub is a bit 'pro' in comparison, I really like your sub too because it looks a bit more within reach of my skills. Nice job, thanks for sharing.
You have given me some great ideas. Like adding a shifting weight inside the bottle to change the center of gravity forward and backwards. Mix that with rotation on the motor pods, so you can tilt the craft to sa set angle, and have the motors provide thrust at the same angle to move along at , say, a 30 degree angle tilt with a 0 degree forward direction. Space the 4 syringes around the hull evenly to distribute the buoyancy around the craft so it could maintain the tilt angle more effectively. And add 2 motors lateral to the thrust motors to add a strafe option to the craft.
Something like a weight on a rack and pinion driven by a servo for the shifting weight in the main hull of the craft. I know it could be done with syringes at the fore and aft of the craft, but thats more serovs and more syringes and more moving parts than a simple weight on a rack in the body of the craft.
Great project! How about a simple floating pod with all the avionics (2.4GHz ok :) - then a long _thin_ umbilical down to the craft? This would be similar to the Nemo dive system - a 9m deep battery powered scuba system - only it uses an air pipe instead of the cable :-) The craft should easily pull the pod along.
I'm growing more and more tempted to build a sub like this. I think it'd be cool to do your buoy system from v1 but instead of sending power and a half dozen signal wires, instead get a receiver with a serial protocol (like how DSMX satellites or SBus Receivers interface with multirotor flight controllers) and run that data down through ethernet cable like Peter Sripol's sub and then have power and interpreting onboard the sub, but still be able to have wireless above the water and then have a pretty light, decently flexible tether. Then you could get data back up to the surface via another pair of wires and then put your FPV transmitter in your buoy as well. I think the "Pro ROVs" have a neutrally buoyant tether so it affects the craft less too, but it's kinda pricy if memory serves.
If you fill the bottle with a granule material it might help with the sub's balance. The granules/particles will occupy the volume of the bottle but the spaces between them will be occupied by air making it stable to changes in pitch
I just watched the video on DIY Perks. Instead of your submarine being tethered to wires, maybe you could tether them to a wireless receiver that floats?
In Portugal we waterproof all our food
Do you bother with tomatoes though? Surely they just go straight in the bin 🗑
How does integza's 2 day old comment have only 12 likes!?
@@vinayakk2745 how does project airs 4 month old comment only have 12 likes?
@Camaro & Joca because I like his old videos what the fuck
@Integza >>> Instead of sealing your servos with _olive oil,_ do you use _tomato paste?_
😊😊😊
At this point you may want to start a series called "Project WATER".
Well done by the way 👍
Guess it's really Project Land, Sea, Air ;) Cheers dude
@@Project-Air LOL!
Yes
Yes we definitely need a part 2. I can see there are many improvements that could be made into a whole new video.
Let’s see the sub launch a rocket
@@jacksonp8587 FIRE ZE TORPEDO!
Great project! I like the small size of the sub
Yeah
It'll be handy for exploring tight spaces!
@Dave Doherty A pulse jet powered submarine powered by...
.
.
.
.
TOMATOES!
@@Project-Air The simplest way to eliminate water slosh upsetting the balance is to fill the water bottle with sponge. It will absorb the water and what does pool in the bottom won't be able to move fore and aft.
@@Project-Air Your submarine reminds me of the one made by Brick Experiment Channel, cos it is made using everyday household components. :) I like this ingenuity. 10/10
Ah, I’ve been looking forward to this since DIYPerk’s video.
I loved this video as well as DIY perk's video. You guys are the perfect duo! Nice work James, keep motoring on!
Thanks Charlie! We had fun working together. It won’t be the last time 👍
That magnet switch that your buddy had at around 3 mins is blew my mind it was pretty nifty
ProjectAir: submarine
There was air in those syringes.
SubmAirine
There was lots of air involved 😁
A great project for this channel.
Pretty much everything you build looks like a piece of art.
I saw the "Pipe Bomb" that Matt made. It was truly amazing, but I love the simplicity of your overall design. Great work!
This is so cool. Was thinking a lot about building an FPV sub. And I run into same problems with water and data transfer in my head. I would try and just expose antenna to the air on a really small and light floater using very thin wire. Tangling could be a problem in that case, so I thought about some sort of antenna wire tension/retraction system. Not sure if there are antenna wire length-related problems, tho.
Also, 3rd motor oriented to up/down axis and with some pitch control would give it much more maneuverability and control in tight spaces. And could compensate for most of the boyuancy problems.
DIY perks is epic, I'm so glad you 2 did a colab
To see how a simple design can succeed is amazing. Thanks. And you can prevent the water tilting your bottle by prefilling the bottle with cotton wool. Wishing you great success with future plans and your channel.
I was looking for this like 2 hours ago. Nice upload!
The collab I didn't realize I needed in my life! Awesome content between the two of you. I love how the two of you approach the challenge so differently.
Taking building a ship in a bottle to a whole new level!!! Love it!!
Great video! Add a 'trailing floating wire antenna" for the RC TX/RX. Make it buoyant and long and some portion of it will float on the surface, even when at depth. (BTW, That's what real submarines do)
this is a good idea. plus sub marines arent designed to move fast
Humm... I didn't thought about the sloshing water, I did for the cable, it was huge.
Some notes.
For water sloshing, have you considered using foam or a more dense than air material that can be fixed?
I also thought about peristaltic pump and a bladder for better buoyancy control, for Diy perk's sub, turns out I wasn't analyzing his project correctly again.
On communications, a thin USB cable could be a decent tender.
However I would consider just a long antenna cable attach to a buoy.
My thought being, just use a long wire, however it has problems with impedance, so just a long coaxial cable sound safe to me.
If only submarines weren't expensive, a relay fleet sound like fun headache.
I like the idea of the floating antenna. Indeed coax cable will be needed. But for sure: waterproofing a cable will be a challenge. Even in military size subs they still have a challenge in communication
*looks at your name
*looks at the title
Me:something’s wrong, I can feel it
Pressurized air used to control the sub
As I mentioned on Matt's video: I love the designs and can't wait for someone to inevitably come up with a truly wireless control system for subs :)
sonar might work well for a few hundred meters until it becomes laggy
@@nou5440 I've seen some experimentation for ultrasonic used for communications so I'm definitely curious if that would work reliably in their small creeks/ponds
@@nou5440 I've often thought about this. Problem is, there'd be no way to get video back.
That's awesome bro make with PVC pipe 👍
Ive Watched lots of these kind of vids But I've never seen someone so entertaining the sad thing is not that many people watch him as he deserves Respect to this man keep up the good work 💪
Can't wait to see Part-2 of it!!
Can you make some sort of a autonomous vehicle for your next video?
I like It! Its always been a childhood dream to make a submarine im glad to see you and diy perks have done that
Doesn't at all surprise me that Matt's solution was completely over-engineered. But, then, that's why I love his channel. Your solution, whilst definitely simpler, was still great.
Can't wait to see how you and DIY perks face off with the subs!
DIY Perks sent me here! I love the collaboration you guys did!
Immediately after watching Matt's video I came to your channel, didn't see any thing related😞, since then I've been expecting yours.
This is very nice, expecting a 2nd part.
Great work! Really interested to see if you find any success with the low frequency stuff. I've heard you can "potentially" get up to 30-40m in fresh water for basic controls with the right conditions at 27/40mhz. Video transmission may prove to be much more difficult or perhaps simply limited by bandwidth and/or physics, but I'd love to see your results regardless!
(btw there's no link to Matt/DIY Perks video in the description as of writing this comment)
Had a feeling this video was coming. Supercool!
If you want it to go deeper tan a meter or two, it will need to be tethered. Or you could use something using sound as a transmission medium, but I don't think a lot of people managed to do that... Great job
Keep it up with the sub content. I have been working on the design for mine for awhile and love seeing it on TH-cam. All of the off the shelf subs are junk and really intended as toys.
I really thought this time having a submarine you would be wearing welly’s when testing. Great video once again !!
And after you are done diving you can have your afternoon tea. Marvellous.
Absolutely love this idea. Now I want to build this myself!
I love this video would love to see you improve for deeper dives and more controllability. Would love more details on the build also so I could build myself at home.
I subscribed when you started your ejection seat series and I am still waiting for the final episode. I would love to see it :)
Okay I have waited enough for this
Very cool project! I love the underwater cameras because the of the shelf ones are so expensive. A bottom scouring drone finding buried treasures seems appealing to me. Nice work as always.
1:08 Some brushless motors are, but most, and very clearly those, are not, it's just that motors don't mind water, brushed motors work fine too. Properly waterproof motors are useful when going into dirty water though, since you don't want it getting jammed with crap.
Same with the servo, some conformal coating on the control board is all you would've needed for it to "stay unfried" as you said, you do want to waterproof it properly though to keep it running smoothly of course, water is not a great gearbox lubricant.
Only the Max 8 and Max 6 G2S motors use fully sealed bearings on the ends of the motor, as well as a rubber gasket on both ends.
All other motors which say they are waterproof will eventually get intrusion of water and rust out those two bearings. Yeah, the windings and stuff are waterproof, but only those Max 8 and 6 second generation sensored motors use the gaskets and the sealed bearings.
So, you can have your "waterproof" motors bearings get water damage, because all other motors use shielded, not sealed bearings.
Possibly the max 10 G2S uses that same protection, but I don't one one, so don't take my word on the Max 10 waterproofing.
That's why, for the 7 people in the world that actually read the instructions, you'll see a couple of paragraphs about the "waterproof" ability relying on the end user dismantling and drying and relubricating metal parts to be necessary for actual prevention of water damage.
Swim at your own risk, sharks in the water, jellyfish, sunburn, whatnot etc etc...
The trick to low frequency data transmission ( for the video ) is that you have to broadcast the data over a spectrum of frequencies because the max data rate will always be frequency/2. So basically you end up transmitting 1/10th of the data on each frequency, but you transmit on 10 different LF frequencies and recombine the signal at the receiver. I don't know for sure, but I think that the Navy uses a lot LF transmissions for underwater coms.
Finally. After all the teasing, I feel like I’ve been waiting for this forever...
Hopefully worth the wait!
another amazing video! and a great explanation of concepts related to the submarine! quite the interesting method of waterproofing lol
Maybe if you stuff the bottle with sponge water wouldn't slush around much. Also what frequency does commercial rc sub use ?
Hey please do a part two. I know im kinda late writing this but hear me out. Ive got some ideas;
- Put all the electronics inside fore a more hydrodynamic body because you will still be able to move center of gravity around and by sticking everything with velcro to a big sliging platform you will be able to make fine ajustments and still be abe to reach to it wheen troubleshooting.
- Cut the cap of so you only have half of a metal bottle and 3d print a big lid mith hydrodynamic form.
- And make the big cable smaller by using a ethernet cable and choose a light and flexible one. The batteries for the motors can be stored inside for more weight
- The syringes should remain for balancing
I hope you will read this and let me know what you think of these ideas
Love your content
Hmm, as an alternative to completely filling the main bottle with water, fill it so it is neutral then weigh that water. Mix up some epoxy to that weight and put THAT in the water bottle (sitting level). Once the epoxy cures it won't be moving. Then you could probably use smaller syringes for trimming the buoyancy. You could also make a 1 or 2 meter long 4 wire tether going to a foam float with the antenna for the RC and FPV mounted on the float.
I think the problem with using a water bottle as a ballast is that the submarine design isn't always going to be level, unlike DIY Perks' design which doesn't pitch forward or back. With yours, once you pitch forward or back, the water will go to the furthest point in the direction your pitched in, making it really difficult to pitch the other way. We could see that when you tilted your sub down, it never levelled out again. This wasn't a problem with DIY Perks, as his submarine was designed to be symmetrical, meaning it's CoM is in the middle constantly. If it was to tilt in a direction though, it'd probably be able to recover, as his has two dynamically weighted ballasts, meaning it could go back to the surface and level out, or make one side lighter than the other to level out and then equalize the weight once level.
Just came from DIY Perks. That was awesome!
Nice project ! Thanks for sharing !
that collab broght me to you in the first place :D awesome and i m glad i found you
On board power with a very light tether (cat6) seems to work best. Add weights/foam nodes on the tether to make it neutrally buoyant. Another option that might be cool for control (not video) would be to play with a sonic pulsing transmitter/receiver set up and a light weight video cable. I think combining the two set ups would be ideal though. A light weight, neutrally buoyant control cable connected to a float which has radio on it so the cable would be for depth only. I love the VR helmet set up. I would add a heavy fishing line (In the U.S. we hall it 80 pound test) tether to the float for easy recovery. For power look into the tubular battery packs some cordless tools have. I wold also mount the two main motors on the fin controllers you originally had so you can change the pitch to look at something with out moving from where you are.
I love the video and wish I could do things like this myself. Thank you.
We love this video. Please make another submarine. Cheers, Sam
6:50 You could have partially filled it with jelly that was equal in volume to the water that was in there. That way it wouldn't have moved regardless of pitch.
My thought was use epoxy equal to the weight of the water. The same volume of jelly (or epoxy) would weigh more than the same amount of water I believe.
Maybe just use an antenna tether, so the antenna is above the water
Use CAN bus modules and Arduinos for control to greatly reduce your control cable issue. Only a twisted pair of wires required:
Can Bus max data rate vs wire length
1 Mbit/Sec - 40 meters (131 feet)
500 kbits/Sec - 100 meters (328 feet)
100 kbits/Sec - 500 meters (1640 feet)
50 kbits/Sec - 1000 meters (3280 feet)
Definitely want part 2!!
FINALLLYYYYY, IVE BEEN WAITING FOR THIS LIKE FOREVEERR
Love the Missive song at the start of the video. Wish more people used it.
DIY Perks introduce you. Well done, Great
I'm excited, been waiting for this!!!
I would love to see the sub get some kind of a arm, and it also could be a good thing to have one if you are going to use it for rescue missions.
Or pick up plastic from lakes and rivers, like the one seen in the left corner of the screen at 3:49 - 3:50 :)
I used to race sailboats around flags on lakes. To keep the flags in one place we built them with a concrete anchor (plastic jug with a handle filled with concrete), and tied a 10 feet (roughly 3 meters) of polypropylene rope (the yellow stuff) to the anchor. The flag was 10 feet of 4-inch PVC pipe sealed at the bottom but with a hole for an eye bolt. We tied 10 feet of polyester rope to the pipe. The pipe was partially filled with sand so it would bob in the water with the flag end up. Polyester rope sinks to keep from fouling boat propellers and rudders, and polypropylene rope floats (to keep from fouling on the bottom of the lake). The rope in the middle didn't matter as much. So if you wanted to make a floating marker tethered to your submarine, you could do something similar. Below 10 feet deep there's not much to see until you get to the bottom. Adjust your rope accordingly. Our lake was 130 feet deep near the dam, so we needed about 200 feet total for our purpose.
>Change your bottle with wide open cap,
>Put your electronics inside that bottle,
>Use air balloons and sand packets for correct buoyancy and leveling.
Pretty cool , good job james , and If you can make a Fast attack military Submarine with missiles and Torpedoes , that would be much cooler
wow that's cool you need to do a part 2
Although Mats sub looks more sophisticated and closer the real submarines, your idea is simpler and cheaper to build ....which is amazing... plus, the size of your submarine is quite small.
I followed you through the diy perks channel. Both you and his projects are very good!
Great project! I wonder if you could stuff the bottle full of bits of torn up sponge so the water won’t be able to slosh around and is just absorbed into the sponge.
U finally did it
This is so cool! I plan on building one of these myself...
Brother..... I like your project 👍👍👍
That's so British... Awesome keep it up.... !!!
Yay another submarine video!
You should have used solid weight ballast fixed in place. Cool project and neat design
Have you considered filling the bottle fully with something less dense than water? Perhaps alcohol or acetone?
The deep sea submersible *Trieste* used gasoline in float chambers. Gasoline probably isn't a good option in this example but maybe vegetable oil could be used.
Great project. I hope we see more
Looking forward to part 2
This is Awsome. Just recently discovered your channel. Great vids over all. Impressive.
Im really looking forward to the next video involving some kind of rocket engine
Oh there will be plenty of rocket engines in the next video 😆
@@Project-Air hope so man XD
So..dosent rocket engenes work under water??! Just saying!
Love your content.
I've binge-watched all your videos.
WOW that's impressive I love this video
Love it. I would like to see tests that explore potential range differences in sea water vs. fresh water. Does salinity have an impact on radio waves?
Yes, even the chlorine and other chemicals in pool water will effect the range of RC signals.
Thanks for the video!
3:26 sponsored by the UK military
Aha! well it's good to see the companion video. I came in from the DIY Perks video. Great builds both. I'm amazed at how you waterproofed the RC gear, I've not seen that done before. Although DIY Perks' sub is a bit 'pro' in comparison, I really like your sub too because it looks a bit more within reach of my skills. Nice job, thanks for sharing.
You have given me some great ideas. Like adding a shifting weight inside the bottle to change the center of gravity forward and backwards. Mix that with rotation on the motor pods, so you can tilt the craft to sa set angle, and have the motors provide thrust at the same angle to move along at , say, a 30 degree angle tilt with a 0 degree forward direction. Space the 4 syringes around the hull evenly to distribute the buoyancy around the craft so it could maintain the tilt angle more effectively. And add 2 motors lateral to the thrust motors to add a strafe option to the craft.
Something like a weight on a rack and pinion driven by a servo for the shifting weight in the main hull of the craft. I know it could be done with syringes at the fore and aft of the craft, but thats more serovs and more syringes and more moving parts than a simple weight on a rack in the body of the craft.
Very cool man turns water bottle into submarine very cool if you're not subscribed to the guy he makes very cool video
Great project. I always enjoy your builds and hope they all make a second showing.
Great project! How about a simple floating pod with all the avionics (2.4GHz ok :) - then a long _thin_ umbilical down to the craft? This would be similar to the Nemo dive system - a 9m deep battery powered scuba system - only it uses an air pipe instead of the cable :-) The craft should easily pull the pod along.
Really satisfying seeing you iterate a design. X-4A looks and performs great
I'm growing more and more tempted to build a sub like this.
I think it'd be cool to do your buoy system from v1 but instead of sending power and a half dozen signal wires, instead get a receiver with a serial protocol (like how DSMX satellites or SBus Receivers interface with multirotor flight controllers) and run that data down through ethernet cable like Peter Sripol's sub and then have power and interpreting onboard the sub, but still be able to have wireless above the water and then have a pretty light, decently flexible tether. Then you could get data back up to the surface via another pair of wires and then put your FPV transmitter in your buoy as well.
I think the "Pro ROVs" have a neutrally buoyant tether so it affects the craft less too, but it's kinda pricy if memory serves.
You should try a long thin Ariel that floats behind the sub along the surface.
I love your videos and creativity😀
Nice. Felt sorry for you in Matt's video so it's good to see you solved the problems with your wee sub :)
If you fill the bottle with a granule material it might help with the sub's balance. The granules/particles will occupy the volume of the bottle but the spaces between them will be occupied by air making it stable to changes in pitch
Amazing video and skills : )
pretty cool, came over from Matts video.
I just watched the video on DIY Perks. Instead of your submarine being tethered to wires, maybe you could tether them to a wireless receiver that floats?
40mhz :). Epic video dude !!
How do you get the parts to make all these cool things?
Uh, this place called: "stores"
They sell goods and services for use by people