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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- This video is about some custom EYE STRAP Style TOGGLES I made for @SVZingaro. When adapting Dyneema Standing Rigging to your existing Chain-plates & Mast Hardware it might be necessary to have some custom hardware involved.
Here is a link to the SV Zingaro Video about Synthetic Rigging where the hardware I made will be installed; • DYNEEMA: Installing sy... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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These worked out SO well man. Seriously thank you. To all those watching, Luke is a perfectionist... almost to a fault, but I'm crossing the Pacific with his rig, and I can sleep at night. Thanks brother.
Hardware looks great. Why not just use the smaller toggle on both ends? Seems it would work just as well as the large ones and save money, time/labor and a bit of weight.
Very informative! Looking forward to more! Thanks
Hey Luke! Thanks for the video! I have a question, if by any chance you get this message here! In the video, you mentioned that enlarging the hole in the chainplate is not recommended. Could you comment on this? I was thinking if I were to go with the dyneema rigging, I could enlarge the holes in my chainplates and add shackles to it! thank you again.
Adding shackles would be redundant, and the size of the shackles that would be the appropriate strength would be just as expensive as Colligo female chainplate distributors. Enlarging chainplate clevis pin holes should only be done in a machine shop with proper tooling, never with drill bits - then chemically treated to dissolve any iron particles that the cutting tool leaves behind or you will have surface rust coming from the hole. The holes can only be enlarged if there is enough base material, cutting away too much will weaken the chainplate.
Could you send to Australia?
Great tutorial! When do think the US will join the rest of the civilised word and go metric 😁
All export products from the US are already metric. Cars, machines, etc. History is a problem. Mast hardware is usually measured in inches, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 for interchangeability, but that's changing too. Any new designs should be metric, it's just easier.
Hi. Good vid. I'm a sail maker and a cruiser/sailor. I'm in the early planning stages of converting my boat from wire rigging to dyneema. Would love to chat with you. Thanks. Dan - s/v Wayward.
Dan, find me on Facebook and send me a message.
thumbs up for realizing the over use of a word.....there's hope yet for mankind
Hi Luke,
NICE!!!! After our emails I found your channel!! Looking forward to getting the synthetic standing rigging sorted on my old Swan. Also Looking forward to your pics of the rigging you are doing on that 40 footer.
Ciao
Mike from Stormsvale
technically there IS pointloading on the thimbels. The thimble is curved and the toggle is curved in one direction (it is bent :-)) but flat in the other. So techniclly there is pointloading from the sides of the toggles to the thimbles.
But I do not think it will be a problem :-)
Just checked out your FB pg. left you a comment with a couple of questions. Hope we can work together soon
I would love to have a dyneema rigging, but I'm not experienced in rigging unfortunately. Do you know anybody, who can do it in the south of France or Spain? My Boat is 15mx4.75m and has a furling mast.
I have worked with synthetic and natural rope a lot thru the years, more so than with "steel". I haven't seen anyone address forestays with Dyneema. I am not a fan of rollers and was wondering about what the performance and wear would be with hank on, with a product like Dyneema. The wear would concern me, but it is fixable afield. The performance of maintaining sail shape of a Gen or Jib ( I realize that a major portion of that load is on the halyard and loft from head to tack) is another concern. Any thoughts?
Yes, boats with roller furling should stick with a wire forestay. Right now there isn't any luff-foil on the market that would be friendly to Dyneema, plus the diameter grows quite a bit at each bury of the splices. For hank-on sails a Dyneema forestay is perfect using a series of small soft-shackles which are then called soft-hanks. The forestay should be fully covered with a Dyneema chafe sleeve which is very tough and also slippery. It's a heck of-a-lot more work, but each soft-hank can also be fully covered with chafe sleeve making them more resilient, but It's not totally necessary. The friction from the soft-hanks may be a bit more than bronze hanks, so a down-haul for the jib halyard is highly recommended. In some of my upcoming videos on jobs I have done for other boats you'll see shrouds fully covered in chafe sleeve.
@@SteelDoesMyWill, Thank You. I am looking forward to seeing the rigs. I have been in indulging in some old school Marlin skills this evening with The Rig Loft Matthew Otto. I was taught sewing, knitting, crochet, macramé at an early age by my mother, who helped me rebuild the front end of my first car... LOL I love that these skills are coming back in vogue.
Dear Sir. How can I get in touch with you? Like to ask help in making nylon rigging and safe a Sailboat an buy my first boat and learn to repair,work on replace hose and more. Thanks for all. Greg of Ohio.
Hi @Kraken I need to replace 2 Bowsprit Whisker/Stay Wires. currently they are 3/16 1x19 type 316 stainless wires attached to hull via chain-plate on one end a a 3/8 turnbuckle on the other end. Would you recommend going with Synthetic Whisker/Stays? If so what would you recommend?
Sent you a message on FB, nice talking with you Luis!
th-cam.com/channels/wVBc3YzxbJjTJVrlL77MrQ.html
Just curious, Did you consider replacing the toggle with a double eyes ended piece of Dyneema or some such similar? I guess the call would the creating/designing the new pin and attachment vs fabrication of toggles similar to current method. You might get away with a closed dyneema loop wrapped around pin through a the chain plate several times then retained by end washers... Humm,,, You seen more of the stuff. I have only watch this video... Again I am just curious...
Anything is possible, but you have to consider chafe for hard attachments much more so than the shrouds themselves.
@@SteelDoesMyWill thanks
Hey where are you finding the 316 stainless thimbles? I’ve been trying to find a bunch of those for my boat
Part of starting a small business is sourcing material at the most competitive prices. I spent a great deal of time researching and ordering samples at my own expense followed by proof of concept testing. I hope you can understand that I don't simply give this knowledge away for free. The thimbles I use are available only with the purchase of my Deadeyes or Rigging services.
I understand, and I’m not looking for something for free. But if you want to make some money I’m looking to buy 32 thimbles for 3/8” spectra.
Where are you located? Great video
Thanks Barry. I'm located in San Diego, CA. Here is a link to my FB page; facebook.com/SeaMonsterStrong/
I have a lot more content that has been recorded, just need to do the editing and post. Check out my FB page for more current news.