This is just a montage of the build. Cool and all but doesn't do anybody any good trying to build it. Not trying to be rude I really like it and saw the instructions but those are really a high level overview as well.
Christ, what more do you want him to do? Come over to your house and build it? If you can't make it from his guide then you shouldn't even be attempting such a project.
This project is impressive in so many ways. Excellent work from start to finish! Now that it has been 5 years, have you made any upgrades? This design is the perfect candidate for klipper to get rid of ringing and using pressure advance to offset the downside of using a bowden tube. Great video series!
With most of the time spent worrying about the fucking chat being family friendly and being constantly surprised by lighting, camera shots and other unimportant details and wasting time fixing them. While stuttering and forgetting what you were talking about every 30 seconds. So fucking annoying...
Hey I love this project and the great videos you made on it. I would recommend going with a direct drive extruder. The main reason Bowden is used is to reduce weight and momentum to increase speed. The build plate however, because of its size is quite heavy. This would take away the advantage of speed and make a Bowden extruder lose it's speedy capabilities. The direct drive would be better at slower speeds and also would be better for printing things like tpu materials. Best of luck!
There are very few DIY 3D printer build videos that don't need a 3D printer to make parts... so refreshing to see your design and build. Neat, well thought out design, nicely executed, and it produced excellent results from the first attempt. (I assume!). Thanks for a great series... liked and subscribed. P.S. Any chance of a quick update video showing changes and improvements after its first year in use? :o)
@ 0:51 to people doing this, do not solder the wire ends that you stick into the connector. Solder is a liquid, connections will become loose, and the connector goes up in flames.
Мужики, это лучший принтер на Ютубе. Без лишней херни, я бы сам именно так и делал, разве что раскосы поставил на ось z, на стойку. Хотя такие как он косынки сделал укосы нафиг не нужны. Все идеально. Ещё бы ссылки на комплектующие, было бы идеально
Это лучший 3D Принтер из всех что я видел! Он самодельный, простой, минимум деталей, и главное качественный и жесткий!!! It's the best 3D printer I've ever seen! He homemade, simple, minimum details, and most importantly quality and hard!
Great job. But Can you share your wiring diagram of the four heated beds? I'm trying to build one, and I think I need 6 heated beds or more. I'd test with five if the glass is hot enough.
why are you adding a funnel and fan right next to the nozzle wouldnt it actually disturb the printed layer(which didnt happen in your video) please reply
good afternoon. excellent video series, you can please share the scheme how to connect the 4 mk2b hot beds, connect them in series and the circuit overheats, as the cables get hot, I will change to a more recent caliber but I still don't know how to connect them 4, I connect them directly but I have seen videos that connect to a relay but it is for hot beds that work with direct current, mine work at 12 or 24
that looks just great. I love how you have only used 3D printed parts made on the machine itself. the wobbly screws and ziptied hotend are inspirational 👍👍. who said you needed 3D printed parts to make a working printer.
Dude thank you very much for your idea and project, i've already done printer. It was difficult because i had no cnc :) i've made all parts with jigsaw ,angle grinder and mitre saw.
I've had a Tevo Tarantula for a few months now, and idly wondered if it was even possible to use 2/4 heat beds in sync like that. And when I got to that part I was like 'wait, he's not going to-oh wow he did! That is awesome to know that works!" Given they now make 30x30 cm beds now... You can get truly gigantic. I'd try it, but I don't even have a place to put it! To put this thing's size in perspecctive, it's got near 8 times the volume of my standard bed Tarantula (22x22x20ish if I recall). And probably didn't cost much more. Though one does have to have some equipment to go completely from scratch.
Thanks for the video, I tried to program a 3D printer by Marlin 1.1.8,1.1.9, but there are some problems in implementation that I could not know despite watching many videos. Can you send me the program file "Marlin frimwar"ready for testing on the Arduino?
buenas tardes. exelente la serie de videos, puedes por favor compartir el esquema como conectar las 4 camas calientes mk2b, las conecte en serie y se sobrecalienta el circuito, a punto que los cables se calientan, cambieare a un calibre mas recistente pero aun no se como conectarlas las 4, yo las conecte directamente pero he visto videos que conectan con un rele pero es para camas calientes que trabajan con corriente directa, las mias trabajan a 12 o 24
Hi buddy all right I'm in doubt about this 3d printer I'm wanting to make one of these, but with another kind of material like this in place of 3d spinning I'm wanting to make one of these, but it's with the metal like that in place of the object like at the end of the video you make a cube, but instead of being metal the 3d object responds to me as soon as you can
Congratulations, I loved this printer, I'm already buying 4 heated beds, but I have a question. How did you turn the thermistor on for the 4 heated beds? makes a recording of the heated, detailed beds.
Nice video, i follow your video but, ihave i problem with actual movement of the axis, i use lead screw m8 1.25 pitch. Can i i see yout configuration.h? On marlin u use
some 4 year ago i made something like this a prusa i2 times 4 also 4 heated beds and also with ramps1.4 i recently started to convert it to spindels instead off belts
hey you said that you ve made a 3d printer. Could you please help me with that. please reply on my email marcelpristavec@gmail.com . Sorry for my bad english. With best regard, Marcel
I have a CNC milling machine so I could easily cope with the mechanical side of this construction, but the info on Instructables re the electronics doesn't show as much detail. I have never put together anything using the Arduino system. Are more details about the electonics assembly available?. It looks awesome!
I can't get my x axis to move left even when i click it. It only moves right when i click either ways. Help please. My z axis won't go down either. And gets stuck when it trys. Help please.
Hey dude , amazing build ! I'm a custom 3d printer and cnc builder and i have made lots of machines similar to yours, i have some recommndations to increase your machines acuracy and surfac finish . 1 . Ur belts seem too loose and the non reinforced . Try using stainless tread reinforced belts they make hell of diffrnce . 2. Use individual z axis steppers,its easy , u plug another stepper driver and another extra micro switch for the z steppers and configure dual z axis motors in marlin . 3. Get rid of the stuck ramps fuses and connectors ,they cause voltage drop and make inconsistant movement . 4. Switch out the ramps mosfets for the bed and the hotend for external one, it makes lot of diffrnce in surface fininsh . 5. Crank up ur jerk and acceleration values as high as ur machine can handle then bring down the print speed for mre accurate dimentional parts . 6 . Swap out ur stepper drivers for drv8825 + elsmoother 8 diode 7. Insulate the heather block 8.swap the lmuu linear bearings with high quality graphite coated ptfe bushing ,they make huge diffrence . These are real life experiences optained by 5 years of 3d printer making, i hope these will be helpfull for you . Tnx for cool videos .
Hey. You told that you have built a lot of cnc and 3d printers. Do you have any plans on how to build 3d printer with your tips so I could get an "upgrade" version of this printer? Sorry for my bad English. Please reply. With best reagards Marcel.
How did you wire up your thermistors with 4 heated beds? Did you use only 1 thermistor or 4? (and if so, how did you wire them up since the ramps has only one heatbed thermistor input)...
How do you control bed temperature? Do you use one bed's thermistor as a feedback and connect all four beds in parallel, or do you control them as a separate heaters with their own feedbacks?
This is a 3D printer and I've already downloaded the technical drawings but I can not find the exact part of the mini-meter at the beginning of the printer, measured from the beginning of the printer, and how high the work should be done. thanks in advance for your shoulder
Can you please give the design and dimensions of all the parts that you engraved from alluminium pieces in your website. I am motivated by your tallent. I also wanted to make a 3d printer of mine but was confused from the last 3 years that how to make it .But now I am confident that I can make it myself after seeing your these 3 series videos. Thanks for motivating me.🤔🤔🤔😃😃😃😄😄😄😀😀😀.
@Thomas Workshop: So, a lot of people in the comments are asking you to build this and then sell it as a kit. If you made this as a kit, what would you charge?
Do you have the 3d printed parts file for this build? Love your design and want to make it. I do not have access to a cnc to make the parts like you did and on your instructables page, it does not have any stl files to print. Great job on your build.
Great build and instructable! One question: why a bowden and not a direct extruder drive with a small planetary drive motor for high torque and low current. You could print with this setup any filament material. Why did you limit yourself with a bowden on such a sturdy printer build?
SURE D He is not limited....Bowden setups are quite useful.They make it so that the x carriage isn't heavy and so that he can print at faster speeds due to the fact that hear isn't a motor attached. They make it so that a dual extrusion setup would be easy to achieve. Although direct drive has some benefits he is not limited in a Bowden setup
with a printer of this size, printing a direct-drive adapter is trivial. direct is nice if you need to print flexible, but Bowden works fine for most folks. I've never had any slipups on my Tarantula that couldn't be blamed on me and my awful bed-leveling skills.
I gotta say, this is the best diy printer ive seen and the best instructions as well. You should really consider making this as a kit
Thanks:)
This is just a montage of the build. Cool and all but doesn't do anybody any good trying to build it. Not trying to be rude I really like it and saw the instructions but those are really a high level overview as well.
If it's all predrilled and the instructions are more thorough then absolutely it can be built
Christ, what more do you want him to do? Come over to your house and build it?
If you can't make it from his guide then you shouldn't even be attempting such a project.
Of course not. Im talking about him going into business and selling these as kits. Its an excellent build
Im loving the all metal parts to be honest will last for ages
The printer completed itself! What a man you are.
This project is impressive in so many ways. Excellent work from start to finish! Now that it has been 5 years, have you made any upgrades? This design is the perfect candidate for klipper to get rid of ringing and using pressure advance to offset the downside of using a bowden tube. Great video series!
well done on both the printer build and the video diary. A true triumph.
Thanks:)
The best part of the whole assembly process - self-improvement!!!! Awesome
I seriously didn't want this series to end haha! I loved it, you get over 9k internet points!
Superb !! Now thats a 3d printer Kit, well done Thomas.
seen many 3d printer making....but this was the cleanest, accurate and watchable video again n again.superb work
Thanks for making watchable videos!! and not 24 hours worth of live streams
With most of the time spent worrying about the fucking chat being family friendly and being constantly surprised by lighting, camera shots and other unimportant details and wasting time fixing them. While stuttering and forgetting what you were talking about every 30 seconds. So fucking annoying...
What is even more annoying is playing music over videos.
I am so Impressed with you and your printer !!!, look forward to seeing more of your work
stevep
Hey I love this project and the great videos you made on it. I would recommend going with a direct drive extruder. The main reason Bowden is used is to reduce weight and momentum to increase speed. The build plate however, because of its size is quite heavy. This would take away the advantage of speed and make a Bowden extruder lose it's speedy capabilities. The direct drive would be better at slower speeds and also would be better for printing things like tpu materials. Best of luck!
There are very few DIY 3D printer build videos that don't need a 3D printer to make parts... so refreshing to see your design and build. Neat, well thought out design, nicely executed, and it produced excellent results from the first attempt. (I assume!). Thanks for a great series... liked and subscribed.
P.S. Any chance of a quick update video showing changes and improvements after its first year in use? :o)
The project is great, but I'm curious how you solved the temperature control for the four heating tables.
Honestly Tom, this is the best DIY 3D printer video I ever watched!
@ 0:51 to people doing this, do not solder the wire ends that you stick into the connector. Solder is a liquid, connections will become loose, and the connector goes up in flames.
Мужики, это лучший принтер на Ютубе. Без лишней херни, я бы сам именно так и делал, разве что раскосы поставил на ось z, на стойку. Хотя такие как он косынки сделал укосы нафиг не нужны. Все идеально. Ещё бы ссылки на комплектующие, было бы идеально
Is it just me or can y'all feeeel the precision.
You know make sla/dlp 3D printers? Congratulations for your beautiful work!
Это лучший 3D Принтер из всех что я видел! Он самодельный, простой, минимум деталей, и главное качественный и жесткий!!!
It's the best 3D printer I've ever seen! He homemade, simple, minimum details, and most importantly quality and hard!
awesome build Thomas
I am trying to build this with low cost parts found locally. very good implementation
That thing is a work of art! Great video series! This makes me want to build a huge printer of my own. My 300x300x300 printer is just too tiny!
Very cool. I love the 4 heated beds.
Thanks:)
Thomas Workshop which heated bed is that?
Wow, what a great design and build. Really well done!
Great job.
But Can you share your wiring diagram of the four heated beds?
I'm trying to build one, and I think I need 6 heated beds or more.
I'd test with five if the glass is hot enough.
What a smooth finish of the prints😱😱
why are you adding a funnel and fan right next to the nozzle wouldnt it actually disturb the printed layer(which didnt happen in your video) please reply
I like this idea, but wouldn't the 4 heating pads like have troubles at the areas where they touch each other: as in wouldn't it just be cold there?
good afternoon. excellent video series, you can please share the scheme how to connect the 4 mk2b hot beds, connect them in series and the circuit overheats, as the cables get hot, I will change to a more recent caliber but I still don't know how to connect them 4, I connect them directly but I have seen videos that connect to a relay but it is for hot beds that work with direct current, mine work at 12 or 24
that looks just great. I love how you have only used 3D printed parts made on the machine itself. the wobbly screws and ziptied hotend are inspirational 👍👍. who said you needed 3D printed parts to make a working printer.
Plus maybe what you have created with it!?
This is a monster 3d printer. Subscribed!
Truly superb work therre Thomas. Hats off to you sir. Cheers!!
Well done on the printer and the presentation!
Oh boy !
That was sick ! Very good job Thomas :)
Will I get the required accuracy if I use a lead screw instead of a timmer belt and pulley for all 3 axis?
rly good work man the best diy printer i have seen so far
thumbs up for you man
wow that 3d printer came out killer, well done! :)
How you connected 4 thermistor from heated bed to ramps
Dude thank you very much for your idea and project, i've already done printer. It was difficult because i had no cnc :) i've made all parts with jigsaw ,angle grinder and mitre saw.
What would you do different now if you built this again?
So Fun to See that! YOU ARE GENIUS MAN!
Keep Creating such a wonderful things!
this huge 3d printer only can print PLA? for ABS you must need a huge enclosure
Can you please explain how to program with Marlin
great build ..great for building kids pedal car parts...im inspired to build one myself!
I've had a Tevo Tarantula for a few months now, and idly wondered if it was even possible to use 2/4 heat beds in sync like that.
And when I got to that part I was like 'wait, he's not going to-oh wow he did! That is awesome to know that works!"
Given they now make 30x30 cm beds now... You can get truly gigantic. I'd try it, but I don't even have a place to put it!
To put this thing's size in perspecctive, it's got near 8 times the volume of my standard bed Tarantula (22x22x20ish if I recall). And probably didn't cost much more. Though one does have to have some equipment to go completely from scratch.
can you send me the circuit diagram of this 3d printer
Thanks for the video, I tried to program a 3D printer by Marlin 1.1.8,1.1.9, but there are some problems in implementation that I could not know despite watching many videos. Can you send me the program file "Marlin frimwar"ready for testing on the Arduino?
my Z 3D printer not touch the bed when printing but it is above about 10 cm. How to fix it?
Can i have the codes and circuit diagram of the whole project with 4 heat beds..plz give me them..
buenas tardes. exelente la serie de videos, puedes por favor compartir el esquema como conectar las 4 camas calientes mk2b, las conecte en serie y se sobrecalienta el circuito, a punto que los cables se calientan, cambieare a un calibre mas recistente pero aun no se como conectarlas las 4, yo las conecte directamente pero he visto videos que conectan con un rele pero es para camas calientes que trabajan con corriente directa, las mias trabajan a 12 o 24
how to do programming of Marlin firmware ,motors and,heat bed etc
Hi buddy all right I'm in doubt about this 3d printer I'm wanting to make one of these, but with another kind of material like this in place of 3d spinning I'm wanting to make one of these, but it's with the metal like that in place of the object like at the end of the video you make a cube, but instead of being metal the 3d object responds to me as soon as you can
Bonjour
Excellent travail bravo 👏 👏 👏
Au final cela vous coûté combien en € ?
Juste pour les pièces
Merci
👍
Dude! Dope work. Another subs. Here 😎 greetings from Honduras
Have you ever problem during printing everything is calibrated but during print it printing far on bed
Can you please provide the code for the 3 d printer
Nice work, what screw did you use to drive Z axis ? classic M8 pitch 1.25 ? In project on instructables.com its isnt
How did you connect the heated plates?
Congratulations, I loved this printer, I'm already buying 4 heated beds, but I have a question.
How did you turn the thermistor on for the 4 heated beds?
makes a recording of the heated, detailed beds.
Nice video, i follow your video but, ihave i problem with actual movement of the axis, i use lead screw m8 1.25 pitch.
Can i i see yout configuration.h?
On marlin u use
some 4 year ago i made something like this a prusa i2 times 4 also 4 heated beds and also with ramps1.4 i recently started to convert it to spindels instead off belts
hey you said that you ve made a 3d printer. Could you please help me with that. please reply on my email marcelpristavec@gmail.com . Sorry for my bad english. With best regard, Marcel
I have a CNC milling machine so I could easily cope with the mechanical side of this construction, but the info on Instructables re the electronics doesn't show as much detail. I have never put together anything using the Arduino system. Are more details about the electonics assembly available?. It looks awesome!
All electronic is based on this schematic:
cdn.instructables.com/F95/I0Q0/J1GOVM22/F95I0Q0J1GOVM22.LARGE.jpg
Awesome build. Thanks for the inspiration!
Thanks:)
I can't get my x axis to move left even when i click it. It only moves right when i click either ways. Help please.
My z axis won't go down either. And gets stuck when it trys. Help please.
Томас, а чего не сделаешь подачу филамента на противоположной стороне от мотора оси X
i love your projects
Hey dude , amazing build ! I'm a custom 3d printer and cnc builder and i have made lots of machines similar to yours, i have some recommndations to increase your machines acuracy and surfac finish .
1 . Ur belts seem too loose and the non reinforced . Try using stainless tread reinforced belts they make hell of diffrnce .
2. Use individual z axis steppers,its easy , u plug another stepper driver and another extra micro switch for the z steppers and configure dual z axis motors in marlin .
3. Get rid of the stuck ramps fuses and connectors ,they cause voltage drop and make inconsistant movement .
4. Switch out the ramps mosfets for the bed and the hotend for external one, it makes lot of diffrnce in surface fininsh .
5. Crank up ur jerk and acceleration values as high as ur machine can handle then bring down the print speed for mre accurate dimentional parts .
6 . Swap out ur stepper drivers for drv8825 + elsmoother 8 diode
7. Insulate the heather block
8.swap the lmuu linear bearings with high quality graphite coated ptfe bushing ,they make huge diffrence .
These are real life experiences optained by 5 years of 3d printer making, i hope these will be helpfull for you . Tnx for cool videos .
Hey. You told that you have built a lot of cnc and 3d printers. Do you have any plans on how to build 3d printer with your tips so I could get an "upgrade" version of this printer? Sorry for my bad English. Please reply. With best reagards Marcel.
How did you wire up your thermistors with 4 heated beds? Did you use only 1 thermistor or 4? (and if so, how did you wire them up since the ramps has only one heatbed thermistor input)...
where can i get that big thermal patch?
hello, can i get the full Circuit Diagram?
The result is very clean! Great job! :)
Thanks:)
Is it just upload the marlin firmware to arduino without edit any code??
Excellent work.. Keep up the good work on..
Heating plate is necessary or no???
pour quoi vous avez couplé les plateaux chauffant par cette manière
Nice work thomas!!
How do you control bed temperature? Do you use one bed's thermistor as a feedback and connect all four beds in parallel, or do you control them as a separate heaters with their own feedbacks?
There is a one thermistor for all beds. I was thinking about 4 separate thermistors, but one is enough.
Tinkering Nerd well done ..like boss..
I'm wondering how long it takes to heat up that bed by using 12v?
Sir please explain 4 heatbed connection
circuit diagram with 4 hotbeds,and codes please ..email those to me
hats off,great job buddy, I am a big fan of yours, keep it up...
Pls help 4 heat bed connection power supply and temperature sensor
This is a 3D printer and I've already downloaded the technical drawings but I can not find the exact part of the mini-meter at the beginning of the printer, measured from the beginning of the printer, and how high the work should be done. thanks in advance for your shoulder
can you share tuned marlin software
is there any tutorial for the electronics part step by step in the DIY please guide me
Томас, а ты подключил блок питания от компа к принтеру?
Can you please give the design and dimensions of all the parts that you engraved from alluminium pieces in your website. I am motivated by your tallent.
I also wanted to make a 3d printer of mine but was confused from the last 3 years that how to make it .But now I am confident that I can make it myself after seeing your these 3 series videos. Thanks for motivating me.🤔🤔🤔😃😃😃😄😄😄😀😀😀.
Please also make coding videos of 3d printer.If possible please🥺🥺🥺🥺🥺🥺.
Can you tell how you placed the jumpers for stepper device of the motor plz
This is very impressive. Great job!
can u share your print setting for printed part? for bed, nozzle temperature and print speed. im new in 3d printer community. thank alots.
Which power supply did you use?
What is the heat bed wirring diagram
thats a nice 3d printer. i can build the electronics portion of it, but im to lazy to do anything else
Proper DIY ! well done mate
hey thomas which slicing software we can use in this printer?....Which is the best slicing s/w currently? Can we use Simplify 3D for this printer How?
@Thomas Workshop: So, a lot of people in the comments are asking you to build this and then sell it as a kit. If you made this as a kit, what would you charge?
Do you have the 3d printed parts file for this build? Love your design and want to make it. I do not have access to a cnc to make the parts like you did and on your instructables page, it does not have any stl files to print. Great job on your build.
Great build and instructable! One question: why a bowden and not a direct extruder drive with a small planetary drive motor for high torque and low current. You could print with this setup any filament material. Why did you limit yourself with a bowden on such a sturdy printer build?
SURE D He is not limited....Bowden setups are quite useful.They make it so that the x carriage isn't heavy and so that he can print at faster speeds due to the fact that hear isn't a motor attached. They make it so that a dual extrusion setup would be easy to achieve. Although direct drive has some benefits he is not limited in a Bowden setup
with a printer of this size, printing a direct-drive adapter is trivial.
direct is nice if you need to print flexible, but Bowden works fine for most folks. I've never had any slipups on my Tarantula that couldn't be blamed on me and my awful bed-leveling skills.
encoder direction is not working in Marlin plz help me out
what the type of bearing you use for the z axis holder?