great video. im always very impressed how you are full of enthusiasm for that great hobby. and that you that enthusiasm share with us. thank you. see you then. greetings from germany.
These are the types of videos I've been longing to see Andy, thank you! Your detailed steps videos are always my inspiration for builds and give me ideas for new ones.. keep up the awesome work and thank you!!
I've been using these products for a while now. They are amazing. I'm not a good painter by any stretch, but all of this stuff is easy to use, and it makes it look like i know what i'm doing. This was a great review!
Nice video. As primarily a miniatures painter I find many of these products very useful and much easier to use than acrylics. I also have fallen in love with Mission Models paints so it has been nice seeing you using more of their stuff in your recent vids. Keep doing what you do!
GREAT TIMING ANDY! I JUST STARTED USING THE AL STREAKING GRIME FOR THE 1ST TIME. IM WORKING ON A HUGE PROJECT SO THIS VIDEO ( LIKE AL OF YOUR VIDEOS) WILL BE A HUUGE HELP. THANX FOR DOING THESE!
Wow. I counted 30 separate bottles of ingredients not to mention the number of bottles in the blister packs or boxes. Clear the shelf of your Tamiya, Mig and Vallejo gear and ramp up the budget.
I ordered from them around Christmas, took a while before the order actually shipped, probably because they were partially closed down for the holiday, but once it actually shipped it made it from Spain to my front door in NJ in 28 hours (DHL is incredible).
I love AK interactive products, never had problem with them .. unlike Vallejo they are light and let you work layer by layer until you achieve the desired result.
I love the Real Colors. The other day I applied their flat varnish and it was just as glossy as the gloss varnish. What did I do wrong? Not mixed enough?
I hope AK had better paint now. I got some about 5 years ago and it was so bad. The pigment separated from the carrier and I could not get it to mix back together. This happened on two paint sets I bought.
what do I need to do to protect the paint underneath before I use these tyoe of products? Last time I did a coat of testors dullcote and still lost the acylic paint underneath when I applied enamel thinner.
Hey Andy love your channel. Great music. I really like the way you explain thing as you do it .I started doing models 9 months ago ,really like doing them .founded you about a month ago. I wish I lived out there ,ps do you take orders .I am in nj.keep up the great work
I tried the Real Color line, but they were so difficult to work with. Originally I did what they said you could do and thinned with Tamiya. Didn't work. So I got their own thinner and you have to use so much of it to even start to get it flowing. Whereas with Tamiya you can plonk the thinner in the jar and that's it, the Real Color stuff needed loads of it, more than the jar could hold. They've got a nice range of colours but man, it was an awful lot of work.
Foab Moab I top up the Real Color bottles with their own brand thinner (same process as I do with Tamiya and MLT) and I’ve had no issues whatsoever. Honestly, not one problem. What pressure are you using? I spray at around 22-25psi. Don’t spray too far away either, for obvious reasons. Just helping btw, I’m not telling you what to do etc.🙂👍🏻
@@Simonize41 Hi there After the initial failings with the Tamiya thinner, I got the AK brand thinner and filled it almost to the top of the jar, but it still seemed to retain similar issues spraying. I'm not entirely sure what my PSI is (I use a little mini compressor), but I noticed a few other little issues with the Real Color paint. For example, it sticks like glue, even thinned, to the inside of a pipette. So you can draw up enough to fill a paint cup, but only a half or a third of it will actually end up in the paint cup. When I eventually got it to spray, somewhat, I'd had to add more thinner to the jar. How high up the jar do you fill it with thinner?
Foab Moab I’ve never had a brand of paint that doesn’t stick to the inside of a pipette, I think that’s simply the nature of paint. I fill each jar with thinner to around halfway up the threaded area of the jar; has always worked for me. I’d advise getting a better compressor with more control if you can, you might find that the extra control will help you a lot. Otherwise just experiment, with different pressures and maybe try spraying closer to your subject.
@@Simonize41 Only thing is it was just the AK stuff that stuck, and I mean stuck fast. When I use Tamiya, it picks up and deposits a good amount and flushes out nicely when I draw up and squirt water out. The AK stuff meanwhile takes up a lot, but will barely release any back, and it took ages to clean. Even flushing the airbrush with water and cleaner seemed to take much longer.
As always a great video. I notice that these are enamel paints. Were you applying them over acrylics? Had you sealed the original painting? I ask this because I understood that it's either acrylic or enamel, but not both.
Did you use the AK Real Color paints on this? If so, did you use a dull coat? I have had bad experiences where the dull coat (Testors) would eat through the lacquer AK paint.
Oh quick question Andy or anyone in the comments if u could tell me what paints u recommend for the takom panther ausf a late full interior kit I just bought
I would use tamiya or model master acrylics. if other brands are local to you, try them if they are paints for models (not general purpose acrylics, its too thick)
People say that oils are the best for weathering but I find I have more control with these Enamel Products by AK. I find oils a lot harder to blend and harder to remove then these products. Maybe I just dont know wtf im doing with oils lol, but these Ak products are pretty much idiot proof
Oh great and powerful Oz I don't have any of the weathing products right now how can I do fuel stains on my Sherman any ideas? nice job one more thing do you have a mail order site for models in my area there is only one kinda limited in choices thanks for listening Have a nice day Bruce
Great video Andy, love your tutorials. I just wanted to ask, I have all of these exact products but mine are branded as "Mig Ammo", are they basically the exact same product just made by a different company? Because everything about them is almost identical. Same bottles, same product names, same styles etc.. just not AK interactive, but then some of your pigments I see said "Mig" on them. I find it all very confusing!
Mig and AK were once one and the same but Miguel Jimenez left AK and started Mig Ammo. They are 2 separate companies producing nearly identical products in many cases.
Just a tip for the AK people, MIG people and Vallejo people. In countries like Brazil, where I live, very, very hot in the middle and north of the country, his products dry very, very fast, no time for one second chance my friends! Is there something that can be done???
Ok @@vasili1207!!! I Miss London, I lived there in the 80's. Good, good times. Here I live in Bahia, but my motherland is Argentina, coincidences, right now I'm painting an old Academy kit of the warrior MCV, with AK colours, fortunately so far this is all ok.
Try using retarder and/or water and see if that works for you? I live in Sweden and have the opposite issue with acrylics - they take f-ing forever to dry. Worst are the MIG paints which takes 48 hours between coats and that's impossible to work with. MRP was the answer to my problem but I've got great results with Tamiya + iso as well but I prefer the quality of MRP.
Did AK buy the MIG weathering effects and rebrand them? The bottles look the same, or is it just an American supplier? You can buy both in Sweden though.
I stopped using pigments myself, i hate the mess and the fact that they look terrible if you dullcoat over them. Oils are way mroe fun for me and i dislikek thick mud on the models as it obstructs way too much details for me.
Me too until I realized I was wrong and my application techniques of pigments were wrong too. You can't achieve the in - scale levels pigments offers with any other product. You just need to knowhow to apply them. I recommend sprinkle your pigments and airbrush x20a thinner as a fixer over them at very low pressure (8psi)
Very informative Andy how about doing a comp giveaway of a set of these for those like me lol on a budget could get our hands on set. Cheers bud another great video
Your how to videos are the best. Not a bunch of goofy music and yelling. You simply get to the point. Thank you.
great video. im always very impressed how you are full of enthusiasm for that great hobby. and that you that enthusiasm share with us. thank you. see you then. greetings from germany.
I'm just amazed at how many different products that are available from different companies made available to the modeller,as need be.
These are the types of videos I've been longing to see Andy, thank you! Your detailed steps videos are always my inspiration for builds and give me ideas for new ones.. keep up the awesome work and thank you!!
I've been using these products for a while now. They are amazing. I'm not a good painter by any stretch, but all of this stuff is easy to use, and it makes it look like i know what i'm doing. This was a great review!
Nice video. As primarily a miniatures painter I find many of these products very useful and much easier to use than acrylics. I also have fallen in love with Mission Models paints so it has been nice seeing you using more of their stuff in your recent vids. Keep doing what you do!
Looks great! Great inspiration for weathering your tank!
GREAT TIMING ANDY! I JUST STARTED USING THE AL STREAKING GRIME FOR THE 1ST TIME. IM WORKING ON A HUGE PROJECT SO THIS VIDEO ( LIKE AL OF YOUR VIDEOS) WILL BE A HUUGE HELP. THANX FOR DOING THESE!
Wow. I counted 30 separate bottles of ingredients not to mention the number of bottles in the blister packs or boxes. Clear the shelf of your Tamiya, Mig and Vallejo gear and ramp up the budget.
yeah, doesn't look like anything I could not replicate with my various browns and reds and sand and greys. technique is key.
A great video Andy,very helpful tips
Great stuff Andy! Thanks bud, that stuff looks awesome!!
Excellent review/tutorial, thanks!
This does show it is easy to fix if for some reason one feels an area is a little too much. That toothbrush splatter worked well.
Damn. Wish I had friends at AK Interactive. Lol
Thankyou Sir For Sharing, Happy Hollween n God Bless All
Great Video, as usual, love these
i have seen mix the kursk summer earth with fine plaster as type of pigment, its a pretty interesting alternative to pigments.
I wish I lived near your shop. Hobby shops are so hard to find and all the ones I do find have like no tanks.
That's the tanks you get!!!
@@xsamitt what?
@@cdrsimmons7300 Pleade reread your original comment !!!! ;-)
Just ordered from the AK SITE , Even thou there in Spain it only took a week to arrive, This video will come in handy as I experiment with AK
I ordered from them around Christmas, took a while before the order actually shipped, probably because they were partially closed down for the holiday, but once it actually shipped it made it from Spain to my front door in NJ in 28 hours (DHL is incredible).
I love AK interactive products, never had problem with them .. unlike Vallejo they are light and let you work layer by layer until you achieve the desired result.
I love the Real Colors. The other day I applied their flat varnish and it was just as glossy as the gloss varnish. What did I do wrong? Not mixed enough?
Great video as always Andy !
Thanks for the info. great job
I hope AK had better paint now. I got some about 5 years ago and it was so bad. The pigment separated from the carrier and I could not get it to mix back together. This happened on two paint sets I bought.
I bought their skin color set about a year ago, very satisfied with it. The acrylics, of course.
Hi - when using this weathering washes, does the model need a coat of varnish first? say i use water based paints for the model first?
what do I need to do to protect the paint underneath before I use these tyoe of products? Last time I did a coat of testors dullcote and still lost the acylic paint underneath when I applied enamel thinner.
Nice vid, AK also makes a great book on weathering called FAQ 2
Hi Andy, can you tell me what model that is? It looks awesome. Also thank you for the tutorial!
Great video!
Great work🙌🙌
That looks awesome! Gunna check it out
Hey Andy love your channel. Great music. I really like the way you explain thing as you do it .I started doing models 9 months ago ,really like doing them .founded you about a month ago. I wish I lived out there ,ps do you take orders .I am in nj.keep up the great work
I wish I had all that, I'm really jealous!!
I tried the Real Color line, but they were so difficult to work with. Originally I did what they said you could do and thinned with Tamiya. Didn't work. So I got their own thinner and you have to use so much of it to even start to get it flowing. Whereas with Tamiya you can plonk the thinner in the jar and that's it, the Real Color stuff needed loads of it, more than the jar could hold. They've got a nice range of colours but man, it was an awful lot of work.
Foab Moab I top up the Real Color bottles with their own brand thinner (same process as I do with Tamiya and MLT) and I’ve had no issues whatsoever. Honestly, not one problem. What pressure are you using? I spray at around 22-25psi. Don’t spray too far away either, for obvious reasons. Just helping btw, I’m not telling you what to do etc.🙂👍🏻
@@Simonize41 Hi there
After the initial failings with the Tamiya thinner, I got the AK brand thinner and filled it almost to the top of the jar, but it still seemed to retain similar issues spraying. I'm not entirely sure what my PSI is (I use a little mini compressor), but I noticed a few other little issues with the Real Color paint. For example, it sticks like glue, even thinned, to the inside of a pipette. So you can draw up enough to fill a paint cup, but only a half or a third of it will actually end up in the paint cup. When I eventually got it to spray, somewhat, I'd had to add more thinner to the jar.
How high up the jar do you fill it with thinner?
Foab Moab I’ve never had a brand of paint that doesn’t stick to the inside of a pipette, I think that’s simply the nature of paint. I fill each jar with thinner to around halfway up the threaded area of the jar; has always worked for me. I’d advise getting a better compressor with more control if you can, you might find that the extra control will help you a lot. Otherwise just experiment, with different pressures and maybe try spraying closer to your subject.
@@Simonize41 Only thing is it was just the AK stuff that stuck, and I mean stuck fast. When I use Tamiya, it picks up and deposits a good amount and flushes out nicely when I draw up and squirt water out. The AK stuff meanwhile takes up a lot, but will barely release any back, and it took ages to clean. Even flushing the airbrush with water and cleaner seemed to take much longer.
I learnd a lot from you:)
slightly off topic, how do you dispose of used track burnishing fluid?
So which weathering products do you prefer Mig, Vallejo, AK or a combination?
As always a great video.
I notice that these are enamel paints. Were you applying them over acrylics?
Had you sealed the original painting?
I ask this because I understood that it's either acrylic or enamel, but not both.
yes I always seal my acrylic paint job with Lacquer clear coat first.
I've been watching your videos for a long time. So here's a question, what's your go to for paint brushes? Cant always use an airbrush
Why you use the Krokodil as an test subject?
Happy Halloween Andy!
happy halloween
Did you use the AK Real Color paints on this? If so, did you use a dull coat? I have had bad experiences where the dull coat (Testors) would eat through the lacquer AK paint.
I did not next build I will use them
Oh quick question Andy or anyone in the comments if u could tell me what paints u recommend for the takom panther ausf a late full interior kit I just bought
I would use tamiya or model master acrylics. if other brands are local to you, try them if they are paints for models (not general purpose acrylics, its too thick)
What no white box?
I just use real dirt and dust apllied with diluted white glue.Especially on tracks and side skirts.
That would look overscaled on a 35th model
Great.
People say that oils are the best for weathering but I find I have more control with these Enamel Products by AK. I find oils a lot harder to blend and harder to remove then these products. Maybe I just dont know wtf im doing with oils lol, but these Ak products are pretty much idiot proof
Oh great and powerful Oz I don't have any of the weathing products right now how can I do fuel stains on my Sherman any ideas? nice job one more thing do you have a mail order site for models in my area there is only one kinda limited in choices thanks for listening Have a nice day Bruce
Ironically the best for oil stains are oil (grease)paints, they come in a tube.
Great video Andy, love your tutorials. I just wanted to ask, I have all of these exact products but mine are branded as "Mig Ammo", are they basically the exact same product just made by a different company? Because everything about them is almost identical. Same bottles, same product names, same styles etc.. just not AK interactive, but then some of your pigments I see said "Mig" on them. I find it all very confusing!
Mig and AK were once one and the same but Miguel Jimenez left AK and started Mig Ammo. They are 2 separate companies producing nearly identical products in many cases.
sgtrock2175 thanks !
What should i use to set in dry pigments, thanks
enamel thinner or pigment setter.
Thanks
@@AndysHobbyHeadquarters is that a new build in the background i see?
good stuff lie it good rust but go faster if painted red see more as post
So is that a late theater paint scheme.?
Yes late dark yellow over red oxide
Just a tip for the AK people, MIG people and Vallejo people. In countries like Brazil, where I live, very, very hot in the middle and north of the country, his products dry very, very fast, no time for one second chance my friends! Is there something that can be done???
Move or don't use acrylic , could try flow improver and retarder, but I know Brazil hit so maybe lacquer or enamels are the answer
Thanks @@vasili1207, it's a shame because acrylics modern products are so good, and the thinners for enamels...you know.
Least you can spray in the sunshine, just spray down wind Id trade rainy UK for sunny Brazil... :)
Ok @@vasili1207!!! I Miss London, I lived there in the 80's. Good, good times. Here I live in Bahia, but my motherland is Argentina, coincidences, right now I'm painting an old Academy kit of the warrior MCV, with AK colours, fortunately so far this is all ok.
Try using retarder and/or water and see if that works for you? I live in Sweden and have the opposite issue with acrylics - they take f-ing forever to dry. Worst are the MIG paints which takes 48 hours between coats and that's impossible to work with. MRP was the answer to my problem but I've got great results with Tamiya + iso as well but I prefer the quality of MRP.
Did AK buy the MIG weathering effects and rebrand them? The bottles look the same, or is it just an American supplier? You can buy both in Sweden though.
I can smell those washes 😣
Hi, may I know what is the tank model in this video? it looks like JPanther but a bit different
I stopped using pigments myself, i hate the mess and the fact that they look terrible if you dullcoat over them.
Oils are way mroe fun for me and i dislikek thick mud on the models as it obstructs way too much details for me.
Me too until I realized I was wrong and my application techniques of pigments were wrong too. You can't achieve the in - scale levels pigments offers with any other product. You just need to knowhow to apply them. I recommend sprinkle your pigments and airbrush x20a thinner as a fixer over them at very low pressure (8psi)
NICE VID
Damn your fast
THX : )
How did you watch a 22 minute video that was only released 4 minutes ago?
Becouse all the time hes vids are very good
Smart answer .@@michaelschwartz3987
Very informative Andy how about doing a comp giveaway of a set of these for those like me lol on a budget could get our hands on set. Cheers bud another great video
do a kv 2
Build a TAM