This frame together with the new gimball and camera from Walksnail would be interesting, no need for a gopro or anything, should be a very light build. Love the way this frame fully protects the props.
Yes, a similar idea for the props but a very different frame design, I did see that one but it's the classic unibody plate with plastic guards, completely unsupported and will be pretty wabbly, probably why it doesn't fly very well. If you have a look at the KD25 on my website you'll see I've made that super compact by having the VTX vertical and pulling everything in, while still being super stiff and flying amazing
Haha thanks man, the camera absolutely does have a gyro though, it works great in Gyroflow! Download the latest version and it's easy, same as the pocket 4k. I just always show unstabilised footage to show what the actual frame is capable of, stabilised footage is useless for that haha
Unfortunately not with this frame, it's technically possible to design but the build would be so annoying and all the wires would have to run through the tiny bit in the middle that I decided it wasn't worth it. The KD50 is a great option for X8 (see my previous video), and because you're carrying bigger cameras anyway, the extra size is actually needed just to mount a Komodo on top for example
It tunes up perfectly well, partly because it's so stiff and has a lower moment of inertia! Did you see the unstabilised footage? Almost good enough to use without any stabilisation, then you can add Gyroflow on top and it's perfect. I've also provided a tune on my GrabCAD for people who buy the frame, of course use with caution
i did this with a 5 in frame but mounted back props on top of frame in pusher and front on bottom normal. I was able to run 6” props on a 5” frame. antennas, battery and camera mount was a massive pain and i didn’t see much of any performance improvement.
Do you CNC the frames yourself. And if so, what machine are you using and can you recommend one under 600$? I have a Sainsmart 1830. but the tolerances are a joke. When I want a 2.1mm whole, I have to feed the machine a 3.1mm whole because it has to much play. So yeah I am open to recommendations :D
Is the bottom plate and the standoffs really needed? It looks like nothing is attached to it. Is it just protection for the blades? Or does it also add rigidity?
It's 100% needed, all the strength in this type of design comes from having 2 plates and well placed standoffs. It increases the resistance to bending moment (rigidity), as well as of course adding protection from the props. This type of design is significantly stronger and better performing than any type of single plate design with guards added on, for the same weight. A quick physics exam you can do at home is to take a ruler and bend it normally, it will bend easily. Then turn it on it's side and try to bend it that way, it is much harder and feels way more rigid. It's the same principle by having the 2 carbon plates separated, it uses the same material as having a thicker plate, but it's way more rigid. Just like steel I beams used in buildings
Thank you, there is some loss of efficiency but as said in the video it's made up for by being lighter so it evens out. You can tune it really well to get good prop was performance and basically get rid of it so the overlapping props doesn't seem to matter there
this look really simple and nice, doest not affect the proppellers above each others? about FC this is not at the center of the frame becouse the camera compense the weight? thanks for the review
The props overlapping doesn't impact performance, it actually helps fly better because of the lower moment on inertia having everything so compact and light. The FC not being centred doesn't make any difference in any frame at all as long as it's not getting much vibration, the gyro cannot tell where the FC is in a frame. The camera is mounted to make the CG in the middle
so cool! What are the payload performance differences between microg2, nakedbmd, and something like a a6400? What does the microg2 setup end up weighing in at?
Cheers! Naked BM is pretty similar, GoPro is like having a really powerful cinewhoop and almost feels closer to an normal open prop 5", I haven't tried an a6400 type camera. The 4kg2 with lens and SSD power module is 500g. AUW is about 1400g with a 6s 2000
I would not recommend this drone for that camera then, a normal KD50 X4 or X8 would be a better fit (check out my website). Having said that if you need the very small drone then this will absolutely work and fly well, you'll just get short flight times
@@kddrones ah i see. I’m always searching for that extra small package that can be "cinematic". Action cams have gotten really good so the jump to make a cine cam worth the trouble and $$ has got so big it is hard to justify.
Yeah for lots of things it can be hard to justify, I just offer what my clients want, there's a pretty big step up between GoPro and the 4kg2 though, and the price difference isn't that big
I haven't tried that actually, but it's such a nice form factor that it should be pretty easy. A half cage type thing could work well, or some CNC aluminium L maybe
That’s a good idea. Most of my drone content nowadays is vertical, and would be nice to squeeze some extra resolution from vertical shooting. I’ll have to look into it for sure.
Yeah definitely, although for flying higher quality cameras like this most demand I get from clients is still horizontal. But I do want to design something to have this vertical it would be very useful!
Ok. I'm in need for bigger drone than my 3". Now I know where to throw my money at... Just need to earn some 😂 One question thou. I've come across opinions that having capacitor that far from the board is almost useless. What's your take on that?
Nice! I also have lots of other cinewhoops, 3", 3.5" etc on my website if you're interested. For the capacitor you're absolutely correct that having it too far reduces the effectiveness, however I have it only 25mm away with some 16awg wire, plus a spike absorber, and this definitely works. You do want it as close to the ESC pads as possible but as I have it is way better than not having it
It's significantly smaller than any other 5" whoop, and significantly smaller than any other whoop that can carry a 500g camera this well. For props what do you mean? These are the best performing props on the 5" motor that I tested, more blades or wider blades is less efficient, why would they be thicker?
@@kddrones they just appear narrow. Like for a freestyle quad. I've never seen a whoop with freestyle props on it is all. Being unfamiliar with larger whoops, it would have been an easier comparison to make if you put it next to something familiar like a source one or an apex frame, just for comparisons sake.
Honestly this quad is aimed at people using cinema cameras, and they'll be familiar with standard sizes of cinelifters so that's a much more helpful comparison. This is not aimed at people that usually just fly freestyle. Also I gave the dimensions so you can just check yourself, it's much smaller than any open prop 5" like an apex or source one. For the props people like to use more blades or wider ones for freestyle because it can generate more thrust when they're using smaller props than normal. In this case I've made the frame more compact by overlapping the props, so I don't need the extra thrust because 5" props are plenty with these motors, so I can use the more efficient and better performing Tri blades like we do on freestyle quads. Hope that's helpful!
This frame together with the new gimball and camera from Walksnail would be interesting, no need for a gopro or anything, should be a very light build.
Love the way this frame fully protects the props.
That would be very interesting! I'd love to see you build one
SpeedyBee Flex25 uses the same idea, I didn't like it, but for 5inch it makes much more sense. Looks good!
Yes, a similar idea for the props but a very different frame design, I did see that one but it's the classic unibody plate with plastic guards, completely unsupported and will be pretty wabbly, probably why it doesn't fly very well. If you have a look at the KD25 on my website you'll see I've made that super compact by having the VTX vertical and pulling everything in, while still being super stiff and flying amazing
Half-piping those trees. Lots of fun. Awesome looking quad.
Thanks!
raw clip is smoother than my 4" x8 whoop. Nice design!
Thank you! Yeah it flies like a dream
Soo clean build. Looks really good. Nice work!!
Thanks!
Killing it homie! your designs are brilliant as always!!
Thanks mate! Always trying to push what I can do
Looks like alot of fun
This looks great! 🎉
Unstabilized footage is looking smoother than my 5inch😂 you should find a solution to add a gyro to the cam though, sucks it doesn’t have one
Haha thanks man, the camera absolutely does have a gyro though, it works great in Gyroflow! Download the latest version and it's easy, same as the pocket 4k. I just always show unstabilised footage to show what the actual frame is capable of, stabilised footage is useless for that haha
@@kddrones no way😱😱😱
Yes way 👊👊
This is an awesome design! I still have no need for another drone, but man I want this anyways haha
Haha I know the struggle, well if you do want it you know where to come
New sub 👍 Awesome work. Gonna catch up on some more of your content - Stay up ✌️
Thanks!
another brilliant quad, it's actually the same size as my 4 inch and probably way more efficient.
Thanks! That was the goal, it's only slightly wider than most 3.5" quads and way more efficient and powerful
Looks great 👍
Great job 🎉
cant wait for the flight video
Hey! There's flight footage in the video
@@kddrones ahh sorry I'm blind😂, I skipped to the technical stuff
@@kddrones It rips, great stuff
It's definitely got some beans! And for the size 💪💪
You have my attention 🤔
Always trying new things where I can!
Nice, Sir!
wild! I love it.
Well that's impressive
Thanks!
Unreal! Can you do an X8 config in this setup???
Unfortunately not with this frame, it's technically possible to design but the build would be so annoying and all the wires would have to run through the tiny bit in the middle that I decided it wasn't worth it. The KD50 is a great option for X8 (see my previous video), and because you're carrying bigger cameras anyway, the extra size is actually needed just to mount a Komodo on top for example
Nice!! But good luck with the PID! :)
It tunes up perfectly well, partly because it's so stiff and has a lower moment of inertia! Did you see the unstabilised footage? Almost good enough to use without any stabilisation, then you can add Gyroflow on top and it's perfect. I've also provided a tune on my GrabCAD for people who buy the frame, of course use with caution
@@kddrones this is a great job! 🤙
i did this with a 5 in frame but mounted back props on top of frame in pusher and front on bottom normal. I was able to run 6” props on a 5” frame.
antennas, battery and camera mount was a massive pain and i didn’t see much of any performance improvement.
Fair enough, yeah that's kinda a different setup, but a cool thing to try!
@@kddrones yah it was just a fun experiment. I was trying to get a sony a7 flying with available equipment.
Do you CNC the frames yourself. And if so, what machine are you using and can you recommend one under 600$? I have a Sainsmart 1830. but the tolerances are a joke. When I want a 2.1mm whole, I have to feed the machine a 3.1mm whole because it has to much play. So yeah I am open to recommendations :D
No I have a very good supplier in the UK that does all my manufacturing, sorry can't help with that one but good luck with your CNC!
Does it fit a DJI SDR system aswel?
Is the bottom plate and the standoffs really needed? It looks like nothing is attached to it. Is it just protection for the blades? Or does it also add rigidity?
It's 100% needed, all the strength in this type of design comes from having 2 plates and well placed standoffs. It increases the resistance to bending moment (rigidity), as well as of course adding protection from the props. This type of design is significantly stronger and better performing than any type of single plate design with guards added on, for the same weight.
A quick physics exam you can do at home is to take a ruler and bend it normally, it will bend easily. Then turn it on it's side and try to bend it that way, it is much harder and feels way more rigid. It's the same principle by having the 2 carbon plates separated, it uses the same material as having a thicker plate, but it's way more rigid. Just like steel I beams used in buildings
Do some night footage
I'm sure you can find some footage of the Blackmagic at night, the flight footage here is really to show off the frame not the camera
Hi, will you be making a video for your KD20?
Yes, I'm aiming to make a video for all of my frames, I'm starting with the bigger ones as they can be a bit more involved to build
Morning, Very nice design. Is there any tip prop wash interference? Thanks
Thank you, there is some loss of efficiency but as said in the video it's made up for by being lighter so it evens out. You can tune it really well to get good prop was performance and basically get rid of it so the overlapping props doesn't seem to matter there
this look really simple and nice, doest not affect the proppellers above each others? about FC this is not at the center of the frame becouse the camera compense the weight? thanks for the review
The props overlapping doesn't impact performance, it actually helps fly better because of the lower moment on inertia having everything so compact and light. The FC not being centred doesn't make any difference in any frame at all as long as it's not getting much vibration, the gyro cannot tell where the FC is in a frame. The camera is mounted to make the CG in the middle
so cool! What are the payload performance differences between microg2, nakedbmd, and something like a a6400? What does the microg2 setup end up weighing in at?
Cheers! Naked BM is pretty similar, GoPro is like having a really powerful cinewhoop and almost feels closer to an normal open prop 5", I haven't tried an a6400 type camera. The 4kg2 with lens and SSD power module is 500g. AUW is about 1400g with a 6s 2000
@@kddrones ah cool. An a6400 is about 800grams with lens and battery.
I would not recommend this drone for that camera then, a normal KD50 X4 or X8 would be a better fit (check out my website). Having said that if you need the very small drone then this will absolutely work and fly well, you'll just get short flight times
@@kddrones ah i see. I’m always searching for that extra small package that can be "cinematic". Action cams have gotten really good so the jump to make a cine cam worth the trouble and $$ has got so big it is hard to justify.
Yeah for lots of things it can be hard to justify, I just offer what my clients want, there's a pretty big step up between GoPro and the 4kg2 though, and the price difference isn't that big
Have you been able to find a good way to mount the G2 4k camera vertical? This frame is killer.
I haven't tried that actually, but it's such a nice form factor that it should be pretty easy. A half cage type thing could work well, or some CNC aluminium L maybe
That’s a good idea. Most of my drone content nowadays is vertical, and would be nice to squeeze some extra resolution from vertical shooting. I’ll have to look into it for sure.
Yeah definitely, although for flying higher quality cameras like this most demand I get from clients is still horizontal. But I do want to design something to have this vertical it would be very useful!
@@kddrones that’s true. Looking forward to getting this frame!
Ok. I'm in need for bigger drone than my 3". Now I know where to throw my money at... Just need to earn some 😂
One question thou. I've come across opinions that having capacitor that far from the board is almost useless. What's your take on that?
Nice! I also have lots of other cinewhoops, 3", 3.5" etc on my website if you're interested. For the capacitor you're absolutely correct that having it too far reduces the effectiveness, however I have it only 25mm away with some 16awg wire, plus a spike absorber, and this definitely works. You do want it as close to the ESC pads as possible but as I have it is way better than not having it
epic , you sell a bnf version ?
Contact me directly on Instagram and I might be able to help or point you in the right direction
That doesn't look small at all. I don't get it. Also why are you using such thin props on a cine quad?
It's significantly smaller than any other 5" whoop, and significantly smaller than any other whoop that can carry a 500g camera this well. For props what do you mean? These are the best performing props on the 5" motor that I tested, more blades or wider blades is less efficient, why would they be thicker?
@@kddrones they just appear narrow. Like for a freestyle quad. I've never seen a whoop with freestyle props on it is all. Being unfamiliar with larger whoops, it would have been an easier comparison to make if you put it next to something familiar like a source one or an apex frame, just for comparisons sake.
Honestly this quad is aimed at people using cinema cameras, and they'll be familiar with standard sizes of cinelifters so that's a much more helpful comparison. This is not aimed at people that usually just fly freestyle. Also I gave the dimensions so you can just check yourself, it's much smaller than any open prop 5" like an apex or source one.
For the props people like to use more blades or wider ones for freestyle because it can generate more thrust when they're using smaller props than normal. In this case I've made the frame more compact by overlapping the props, so I don't need the extra thrust because 5" props are plenty with these motors, so I can use the more efficient and better performing Tri blades like we do on freestyle quads. Hope that's helpful!
Way too much camera for the type of shot you get freestyling trees.
Not really the point haha, I'm just showing what the drone can do, I can't show most of the filming I do for work, this is just test footage
Worst hobby ever
That's a relief. I thought my head hunting hobby was the worst.