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Yes absolutely! I have several clients running that camera on the KD50 S and it looks really good. Sorry for the slow reply, I never get notified of comments it's so annoying. If you have more questions please contact me through my website, there's a business WhatsApp link on each product page

Thanks!

Yeah I still prefer it this way, but it's a super simple print you would need to fit in that hole and isolate it if you wanted. I will make one for you if you wanted a frame

Sorry I don't accept crypto, although this comment sounds like a potential scam for anyone else looking at it be careful

Awesome! Hit me up through the website when you want to get them!

Thanks! It's really fun to fly

Thanks, it's so much fun to fly. My favourite is the X4 config with the BM 4KG2 (awesome camera), it's so quiet and responsive and lower risk than a larger lifter. I've bought lots of stuff 2nd hand, Facebook marketplace is often good, or closed camera or drone Facebook groups in your area. Just do lots of searching and comparison, and be prepared to wait a bit for the great deal you're looking for. Of course also be careful with potential scammers, try to meet in person, check it's working etc. I've seen a few good Komdo deals 2nd hand, usually very well taken care of because they're used by professionals. The BM 4KG2 is a very good price even new, I wouldn't expect many on 2nd hand market for a while

Thanks mate!

It's called "Our Last Stand", by FormantX. It's from Edpidemic Sound

It's a vulture, but I don't recommend it for the G2, my KD7 is designed for the G2 if you look for that video on my channel

Thanks!

I definitely understand your concerns. It's just a physics problem though, it's all about the payload you're carrying. If you want to lift a 1.2kg camera then you're going to have 1.2kg of thrust coming out the bottom (plus drone and battery mass). There's nothing that can be done about that. It hasn't really got anything to do with the drone. I would recommend the KD50 S and a Blackmagic Micro 4KG2. The whole setup will be under 1.5kg

@ that's why I'm eyeing on that frame and also the Halorc 4" even though it may have worse freestyle performance as it's intended for a specific need

I would highly recommend looking at the total weight of the build. This is by far the main factor that will determine down wash (like 95%, the other 5% is maybe props size and pitch). Any questions feel free to message me through my website listing and I'm happy to help!

Thank you! That was one of my favourite ever shots to experience

Thanks! I'm not quite sure what you mean about sticky tape? The lipo is attached using normal lipo straps, and I use a sticky battery pad on both the drone and the battery plate to keep it very secure. That stick pad is provided in the frame kit. The whole thing is super secure with great low vibration performance

Thanks! This build is using a DJI O3, but you can fit any VTX inside. There is 25.5x25.5 and 20x20 mounting for the VTX

@ sorry I meant brand (ref) for the long vtx antenna

Ah yes, the ones on here are the iflight albatross V2 150mm

Oh yeah 💪

Matek 12S Pro BEC, 12V 4.5A

@@kddrones Can we connect a battery directly to the bec circuit and get output to the camera, or does it have to be FC in the middle?

You can do it however you like. The BEC just has an input V and G, and an output V and G (5/8/12V options). I have the BEC getting power directly from the ESC pads, so as soon as the main drone battery is plugged in the camera has power. You should not run the BEC through the FC because it will draw way too much current and either not work, or break your FC.

@ Hello, what format do you record in Red Komodo? When I recorded 17:9 rd3 I couldn't get the data in Gyroflow. Will you make a youtube video about this?

That's weird, I think you should get gyro data in all r3d recording modes. It works fine for me in gyroflow with all settings I've tried. Make sure you're on the latest Gyroflow and you have the r3d thing installed (it should prompt you the first time you drop in r3d footage)

Good question, and sometimes yes. But if the frame is good and stiff enough then hard mounting will give better results. You can tune it better and get better performance. Hard mounting allows you to push a tune more if the frame is stiff enough, so maybe what you are experiencing is with soft mounting you can't tune it as well so it will be fine with a wider payload range

Fair enough! I'm sure the mass produced stuff isn't nearly as good as what you can make. Although I doubt I'll be getting 1000x the range on anything haha

@@kddrones It boils down to mathematics and yes, 1000x the range with the only setback being battery life and have a PONR. It would require establish coms between to known points and sending the drone along that path of wavelengths. I guess you'd have to be a HAM radio operator to understand this. If you had a powerful enough drone, you could put a Starlink mini, purchase a maritime package from Elon Musk and theoretically fly around the world. There are already solar powered drones with limitless flight times believe it or not.

I'm more interested in a direct replacement for goggles or drone antennas on the setups I already use. What sort of range increase could you get for these with your antennas?

@@kddrones There is no real range limit. With upgrades, you can increase distance to well beyond what your battery will last using any drone on the market by a long shot. Mind you, it requires upgrades and you need to know what you are doing with antennas. Most people don't know this, but you're supposed to point your antenna in the direction of the drone. This is how wavelengths work. If I were you, I would watch a TH-cam video so you have a clear understanding on how HAM radio communication works and than you'll have a clear understanding of this a lot more.

I'm not sure if you're being serious or not. Everyone knows patch antennas need to point in the direction of the drone. "No real range limit" what are you talking about? When I'm flying commercially, I'm often inside buildings. I can get through a certain thickness of concrete/steel etc before I lose signal. What exact antennas can I use to get unlimited range in that situation? You're just talking generally about upgrades but you're not providing any actual solutions. I'd genuinely be interested in a better antenna if you have one, I'm not being rude, but you're not giving me anything specific

Thanks! For 2x 6s batteries you would have to stack them one on top of the other with longer straps. You can but not super recommend. I will be doing an 11" at some point aimed at 12S but you definitely could use this frame it'll just be tight. I have a tilta gimbal base mount for this but it goes on the top. If you want a bottom mounted gimbal then just flip the drone upside down, swap the props, flip your FPV camera, and change the settings in betaflight. I haven't got prop guards for this, you could make some, but I would recommend a dedicated whoop cinelifter instead. My biggest one is the KD70 (check my website), but maybe a bit small for a gimbal

Sorry, I have no idea what you're trying to say

I have no idea what you're saying 😂

You could build one with those modes, but generally this type of cinelifter needs to be flown fully manually to make the most of the performance

Thank you!

Thanks!

You know where to get one! 😎

Haha thank you

I meant to include how you set it up for pusher props in beta flight as opposed to upright.

Hey, if you go on the website listing there is a GrabCAD link at the bottom. That had my PID and Filters tune in it. Obviously use at your own risk. For pusher configuration it's exactly the same as normal. Just make sure the motors are spinning the right way and the props are on the right way and pushing air

@@kddrones Thanks.

Oh yeah 💪

It was definitely fun!

Thank you!

Thank you! Always trying to do cool new things 👌

Haha thanks mate!

Yes you can! You just need to be careful how you mount it so that you don't hit the props, but it definitely can work

Yeah it's important for the stiffness to have strategically placed standoffs working with the carbon fibre and lots of screws to make it super strong. They're A2 stainless steel. Titanium is good for weight but the frame is already super light and I like using hardware that people can easily replace if they lose something

I know the feeling!!

@@kddrones 😅

Haha thanks mate, I had fun with it 😎

Haha I like it, and thanks! The first link in the description takes you to my website where you can get one

@ where I can send you a private message?

On my website there's a business WhatsApp link where you can message me

I'm looking in to doing my first cine lifter build and this looks like a nice and simple design. Nice work.

Cheers! I'm always available to answer any questions you have, especially on your first build if you get one. All info on my website

I appreciate it!

Yes absolutely! You just need the right ESC/FC/Motors

Very good point! These were the ones I tested because they are what I would personally use. The trueRC for V2 are way too big so I wouldn't use them, and they seem to have similar performance anyway. The trueRC at the time were the only good opinion so I chose them

Yes it can!

In this video it's a 6" vulture

Glad it was helpful!

I use the sabrent 512Gb and 1TB 2230 SSDs