Hi Tom - thanks for your awesome videos! I am building a tritoon from the ground up. I made my own cross members out of 2.5” square aluminum tubing. Question : how would you run/secure the wires that run the length of the toons since I don’t have holes in the cross members for a chase? I’m using Harris brand toons with continuous M brackets that the cross members mount on. Thanks
Hey Adam! Great question. Most pontoon boats don't have holes to chase wires through. That Harris style log is great for running the wires right down the top of the pontoon in between the M brackets. It'll cut over when it needs to go across the center of the boat. I'd say 99% of the boats I work on that is how we run electrical, just letting it lay on the top of the pontoon. You can add a split conduit if you'd like, but if everything is tidy and neat it should only need conduit where it may rub or chafe on metal.
Hey quick question, I am adding an amp under the helm and wiring from under the pontoon deck to the battery. Do I need to seal the outside of the hole in the deck where I running the wires? If so, what product do you recommend? Thank you
I don’t add a sealer because with treated marine grade the rot process takes nearly eternity…especially if the wood can breathe. If sealing the open ply you could simply use a marine grade silicone.
@@tomspontoons thanks for the quick reply! I will add silicone sealant just for piece of mind because the other holes from the factory are sealed with some sort of sealant on the outside wiring looms. Thanks!
@@gaba1170 I usually only see silicone from manufacturers used to plug speaker wire holes where water might spray up into seats. It certainly can't hurt to add it, especially if it gives you the peace of mind!! Best of luck with your project!
Awesome! You’ll love owning and cruising on a pontoon, especially after doing the work yourself!! Docking lights should be on their own switch. In most places you’re not allowed to drive around with docking lights on, just use them for docking, trailering, or when necessary…then turn them off. Running (aka navigation lights) must be on at all times just before, during, and just after dark.
That’s something we don’t offer right now. Detail companies who polish gas tanks and other items are the folks to call for that. It’s extremely dirty and time consuming…and I’ve heard can cost around $2,000
I’m restoring a pontoon and would like your opinion. When running the wires to the front of the boat I was thinking of running it in pvc or electrical conduit to keep it cleaner looking and add an extra layer of wire protection.
Great question! If you wires are bundled up nicely with nothing hanging where it could get caught or grabbed you’d be just fine. It’s never a bad idea to wrap what you can in a split conduit, or even to add some of it in the event that your wires are making a tight turn around metal where they could wear. Thanks for the question!!
Thanks for doing these videos. Im rebuilding a boat from the toons up for the first time and have lots of learning to do. Can you do a video on wiring with a 2 battery system using the harness pontoon stuff sells?
Thanks for watching our channel!! We hope that over time we build enough of a library of videos to cover every option possible. Are you looking to run two batteries in parallel? Or a battery switch? Often for pontoons we run one battery when it’s the motor and light accessories (LED lighting, basic stereo, fish finder, etc) and they do great as long as the motor is run while the bulk of the accessories are in use. If there’s an upgraded stereo or you know you’ll be parked often with motor off and accessories running, then we would add a deep cycle to power those accessories while keeping the motor on its own battery. A switch could be used in that case, or just a basic onboard charging system (even a solar panel trickle charger).
@@firemancary Totally get that! We will be sure to video the next boat we install a battery switch on! I always give customers a heads up that you'll still need an onboard charger because even when running both batteries on with the motor pushing a charge, it would take hours and hours of running at fairly high RPMs to top off a drained battery. It'll help, but if you're always going out and parking/partying you'll need an additional charging option other than just the motor!
@@mattlawson6975 I’m pretty sure we will be doing that sort of setup on our tritoon build in the coming weeks. I will definitely share a breakdown and install of the next one I do either way!
I have a pontoonstuff wiring harness and all my ends have connectors. Do I need to cut the connectors off and splice them to be able to wire them to my docking lights , horns etc?
Great question! This video should help: th-cam.com/video/KJxsb4H5I_0/w-d-xo.html I’ll be showing in greater detail how to use their harness with a different switch panel. Generally, yes, cut off their ends and splice into your switches!
No that’s for the switch panel. I need help with this wire harness I recent bought from pontoon stuff. Is there a way I can send you some pics to get a better understanding?
You’re referring to one of their variations of harnesses with the waterproof quick plugs!! Yes, cut those off and use the colored wire as your power to each accessory and the black as the ground!
Hi Tom - thanks for your awesome videos! I am building a tritoon from the ground up. I made my own cross members out of 2.5” square aluminum tubing. Question : how would you run/secure the wires that run the length of the toons since I don’t have holes in the cross members for a chase? I’m using Harris brand toons with continuous M brackets that the cross members mount on. Thanks
Hey Adam! Great question. Most pontoon boats don't have holes to chase wires through. That Harris style log is great for running the wires right down the top of the pontoon in between the M brackets. It'll cut over when it needs to go across the center of the boat. I'd say 99% of the boats I work on that is how we run electrical, just letting it lay on the top of the pontoon. You can add a split conduit if you'd like, but if everything is tidy and neat it should only need conduit where it may rub or chafe on metal.
Hey quick question, I am adding an amp under the helm and wiring from under the pontoon deck to the battery. Do I need to seal the outside of the hole in the deck where I running the wires? If so, what product do you recommend? Thank you
I don’t add a sealer because with treated marine grade the rot process takes nearly eternity…especially if the wood can breathe. If sealing the open ply you could simply use a marine grade silicone.
@@tomspontoons thanks for the quick reply! I will add silicone sealant just for piece of mind because the other holes from the factory are sealed with some sort of sealant on the outside wiring looms. Thanks!
@@gaba1170 I usually only see silicone from manufacturers used to plug speaker wire holes where water might spray up into seats. It certainly can't hurt to add it, especially if it gives you the peace of mind!! Best of luck with your project!
Newbie boater doing my first restoration here. Love the channel! Are the docking and running lights operated by the same switch or different?
Awesome! You’ll love owning and cruising on a pontoon, especially after doing the work yourself!!
Docking lights should be on their own switch. In most places you’re not allowed to drive around with docking lights on, just use them for docking, trailering, or when necessary…then turn them off. Running (aka navigation lights) must be on at all times just before, during, and just after dark.
You plan on ever doing one on polishing the toons?
That’s something we don’t offer right now. Detail companies who polish gas tanks and other items are the folks to call for that. It’s extremely dirty and time consuming…and I’ve heard can cost around $2,000
I’m restoring a pontoon and would like your opinion. When running the wires to the front of the boat I was thinking of running it in pvc or electrical conduit to keep it cleaner looking and add an extra layer of wire protection.
Great question! If you wires are bundled up nicely with nothing hanging where it could get caught or grabbed you’d be just fine. It’s never a bad idea to wrap what you can in a split conduit, or even to add some of it in the event that your wires are making a tight turn around metal where they could wear. Thanks for the question!!
Thanks for doing these videos. Im rebuilding a boat from the toons up for the first time and have lots of learning to do. Can you do a video on wiring with a 2 battery system using the harness pontoon stuff sells?
Thanks for watching our channel!! We hope that over time we build enough of a library of videos to cover every option possible. Are you looking to run two batteries in parallel? Or a battery switch? Often for pontoons we run one battery when it’s the motor and light accessories (LED lighting, basic stereo, fish finder, etc) and they do great as long as the motor is run while the bulk of the accessories are in use. If there’s an upgraded stereo or you know you’ll be parked often with motor off and accessories running, then we would add a deep cycle to power those accessories while keeping the motor on its own battery. A switch could be used in that case, or just a basic onboard charging system (even a solar panel trickle charger).
@@tomspontoons Thanks for the quick reply! I want to use a switch so I can park and fish or hangout on the sandbar and play the tunes.
@@firemancary Totally get that! We will be sure to video the next boat we install a battery switch on! I always give customers a heads up that you'll still need an onboard charger because even when running both batteries on with the motor pushing a charge, it would take hours and hours of running at fairly high RPMs to top off a drained battery. It'll help, but if you're always going out and parking/partying you'll need an additional charging option other than just the motor!
@@tomspontoons I'm looking to do this as well and would love to see a video explaining the 2 battery setup with the switch and trickle charger!
@@mattlawson6975 I’m pretty sure we will be doing that sort of setup on our tritoon build in the coming weeks. I will definitely share a breakdown and install of the next one I do either way!
I have a pontoonstuff wiring harness and all my ends have connectors. Do I need to cut the connectors off and splice them to be able to wire them to my docking lights , horns etc?
Great question! This video should help:
th-cam.com/video/KJxsb4H5I_0/w-d-xo.html
I’ll be showing in greater detail how to use their harness with a different switch panel.
Generally, yes, cut off their ends and splice into your switches!
No that’s for the switch panel. I need help with this wire harness I recent bought from pontoon stuff. Is there a way I can send you some pics to get a better understanding?
@@ddamion1801 you know where to find me I think…
TomsPontoons@gmail.com
You’re referring to one of their variations of harnesses with the waterproof quick plugs!! Yes, cut those off and use the colored wire as your power to each accessory and the black as the ground!
@@tomspontoons yes! Thank you so much for that. Will I need to also the harness to connect it to their 8 switch panel?
What gauge is the waire
Good question! To most accessories I prefer to run 16 gauge marine wire. For some shorter runs, or LED lights with low draw I will go with 18 gauge.
Tk
I live en nc where ara yuo
Yup!
I’m all the way up in Michigan!!
Shake and bake, how am I first comment after 12 hours!
Thanks for watching!
I’m second :)
Happy to have you watching!
Sound sucks. Need to wear a microphone
Always working on improving the channel. Thanks for the input!!!