Just FYI, the reason they didn't cut that little piece of the seal off is because this is a generic gasket for 304 and 360 engines. It fits the 304 without having to cut off those end pieces.
yeah buddie , has to be a blast for sure . my fsj is a beast even with the th400 auto. like the videos should make some more of the fsj finished / or how it is now
The inside looked pretty clean for a used motor. Must have been a low milage motor. Did you check out the camshaft while you could see it? They have a habit of the lobes wearing down after 80,000 miles or so. I put an aluminum 4 barrel edelbrock inrake with matching bigger cam on mine from Summit. At first I had a Holley 600 on for a year, but I didn't like it, too many problems, so I used an adapter plate and bolted on a Quadrajet 4 barrel. That thing screams when the 4 barrels kick in. Plus I get around 15 to 18 miles per gallon. All in tuning in the distributor with the motor.
Hope you check out mine. My motor runs pretty strong with alot of self made hypo parts on it. I'm probably pushing around 300 hp or so. Good vids on your Jeep.
Did this I my jeep but still had it in my jeep not on a stand. Got it put together and filled it with coolant and it started leaking from the front and back of the manifold. I didn’t do something right
Sorry man, that's a bummer. If you are sure both mating surfaces were good and clean, you might want to check what type of gasket sealer you used. (for heat and fluids) Also check directions on the gasket sealer. Some need to dry 24hrs before use.
@@J20Jeepster I’m pretty sure I didn’t get the rubber seal right, I can see it squishing out a little but also one of the holes for the front bolt for the intake is missing half the threads. I’m going to get a helacoil for it and am thinking about just getting a edelbrock intake and carb because I believe they move away from the metal intake gasket and get rid of the EGR.
Nice work! How come you didn't do the oil modification on the valley to lubricate the rear bearings? I would of, just to be on the safe side,if you go to Horsepower tv.com they have the video.
@Demo Rcr You can go to Google and search it under.....AMC "other engine" build up. For some reason I can't find it here in You Tube. You can watch it and determine if you want to do it or not. If you like the 304 and you so happen to be in Wisconsin, I have one for sale. Let me know if it interest you.
@Demo Rcr I had the 6 cyl.in my 79 jeep. Took that off and put the 304 and I regretted. Now after several years of hard work I just got the jeep done again and this time I put a 360. It's more than enough power for a daily driver and I won't race my Jeep after all the work I did in it and let's NOT forget the center of gravity being so high, lol. I would go with the 360 for sure. If you go with a 401 or even a 390 the crankshaft is very hard to come by. The 360 is the same block but different crank. I have family in Youngstown Ohio, good people in Ohio, good people 👍🏽🇺🇸
@@MrElPoderozo1 Explain this: "The 360 is the same block but different crank." The 360 block is not the same as a 304 or 401 or 390 block. The bore is different between all of these except the 390 and 401. The 1970 390 and 401s have the same bore and thicker main bearing webs than the 304 and 360 blocks. The exterior diminsions are the same on a 304, 360, 1970 390, and 401. not the bores and not the bearing journal webbing thickness. The 390 and 401 have different stroke, but both used forged steel cranks. The main bearing journals are all the same, but the crank-end flange will be different between 1971 and older, and 1972 and newer AMC V8 cranks. So, it's not as simple as: "360 is the same block." Occasionally...if you're lucky, you can Ultrasound test the cylinder walls in a 360 block...and if they are thick and uniform enough, you can increase the bore from 4.08" out .085" to 4.165" which is stock 390 and 401 bore diameter. If you use a 401 crank you will then have a poor-man's 401...but it will not have the thicker main webs of the 390 and 401 block. I've never done it, but I've heard from guys who have. Since the 390 and 401 cranks are forged steel, they can be welded and destroked, or stroked, by regrinding the connecting-rod journals on the crank to increase or decrease the stroke .020"-.030". I've never done it, but supposedly its workable. Honestly, if you have a 304, you have fewer speed parts to throw at it. The heads have smaller ports and valves, and chambers than a 360. The 360 and 401 intake manifolds might be made to work, but the intake ports may not match the ports in the heads. You can put 360 heads on it, with bigger ports, passages and valves, but it will not run well at lower RPM. 360 and 401 heads are essentially the same and valves inter change...not so with the 304 and 360 or 401. Also, the combustion chamber volume changed in all the heads. from 1971 to 1972 they increase from 51cc chambers to 58cc. Then later the combustion chamber volume increased again to 62cc. This is 360 and 401 heads. In 1974 all exhaust valve seats were induction hardened to be used with unleaded gasoline. The hardening was typically into the head about .080". There is also a chanfge in exhaust manifold bolt hole size. I think 1979 was the cross-over year here. Generally the bolt holes on the outer two exhaust ports went from 3/8x16 to 5/16x18...IIRC. All AMC heads used "dogleg" exhaust ports from 1970 on. These flow about 13-205 better than the rectangular port AMC heads. they also outflow stock Small block Chevy heads from the era. But a modern Chevy V8 engine will out perform any AMC 360 in efficiency and power output every day of the week. But an AMC engine is just cool. Over all a 360 is a good engine. The block is fairly strong, but not as strong as the 390/401 blocks. The con rods are cast instead of the 390/401 rods which are forged steel. the crank is cast iron versus the 390/401 which uses forged steel crank shaft. The 360 had a 2-barrel and several 4-barrel intake manifolds. The EGR and non EGR differ in the carb design also. Early, Non EGR intake manifold has a square bore design. Later, EGR, 4-barrel intakes use a unique spread bore design that only a Ford Motorcraft 4350 carb will bolt to. Good luck.
Just FYI, the reason they didn't cut that little piece of the seal off is because this is a generic gasket for 304 and 360 engines. It fits the 304 without having to cut off those end pieces.
To keep the front and rear from ever leaking in the future toss the rubber layer thick rtv instead
ahhh , sweet. has to be a beast of a fsj with a good 360 now . 4 speed truck too? stick with the 2bbl carb?
yeah buddie , has to be a blast for sure . my fsj is a beast even with the th400 auto. like the videos should make some more of the fsj finished / or how it is now
How thick did you put the gasket maker?
did you take the engine out for a rebuild or just to go a gasket install on the engine?
The inside looked pretty clean for a used motor. Must have been a low milage motor. Did you check out the camshaft while you could see it? They have a habit of the lobes wearing down after 80,000 miles or so. I put an aluminum 4 barrel edelbrock inrake with matching bigger cam on mine from Summit. At first I had a Holley 600 on for a year, but I didn't like it, too many problems, so I used an adapter plate and bolted on a Quadrajet 4 barrel. That thing screams when the 4 barrels kick in. Plus I get around 15 to 18 miles per gallon. All in tuning in the distributor with the motor.
Hope you check out mine. My motor runs pretty strong with alot of self made hypo parts on it. I'm probably pushing around 300 hp or so. Good vids on your Jeep.
Nice video
Did this I my jeep but still had it in my jeep not on a stand. Got it put together and filled it with coolant and it started leaking from the front and back of the manifold. I didn’t do something right
Sorry man, that's a bummer. If you are sure both mating surfaces were good and clean, you might want to check what type of gasket sealer you used. (for heat and fluids) Also check directions on the gasket sealer. Some need to dry 24hrs before use.
@@J20Jeepster I’m pretty sure I didn’t get the rubber seal right, I can see it squishing out a little but also one of the holes for the front bolt for the intake is missing half the threads. I’m going to get a helacoil for it and am thinking about just getting a edelbrock intake and carb because I believe they move away from the metal intake gasket and get rid of the EGR.
Nice work! How come you didn't do the oil modification on the valley to lubricate the rear bearings? I would of, just to be on the safe side,if you go to Horsepower tv.com they have the video.
He's running a stock 2-barrel carb intake. This is not a Hotrod. You don't need the oiling mod for normal driving below 4-5,000RPM.
@Demo Rcr You can go to Google and search it under.....AMC "other engine" build up.
For some reason I can't find it here in You Tube. You can watch it and determine if you want to do it or not. If you like the 304 and you so happen to be in Wisconsin, I have one for sale. Let me know if it interest you.
@Demo Rcr I had the 6 cyl.in my 79 jeep. Took that off and put the 304 and I regretted.
Now after several years of hard work I just got the jeep done again and this time I put a 360.
It's more than enough power for a daily driver and I won't race my Jeep after all the work I did in it and let's NOT forget the center of gravity being so high, lol.
I would go with the 360 for sure.
If you go with a 401 or even a 390 the crankshaft is very hard to come by. The 360 is the same block but different crank.
I have family in Youngstown Ohio, good people in Ohio, good people 👍🏽🇺🇸
@@MrElPoderozo1 Explain this: "The 360 is the same block but different crank." The 360 block is not the same as a 304 or 401 or 390 block. The bore is different between all of these except the 390 and 401. The 1970 390 and 401s have the same bore and thicker main bearing webs than the 304 and 360 blocks. The exterior diminsions are the same on a 304, 360, 1970 390, and 401. not the bores and not the bearing journal webbing thickness. The 390 and 401 have different stroke, but both used forged steel cranks. The main bearing journals are all the same, but the crank-end flange will be different between 1971 and older, and 1972 and newer AMC V8 cranks. So, it's not as simple as: "360 is the same block."
Occasionally...if you're lucky, you can Ultrasound test the cylinder walls in a 360 block...and if they are thick and uniform enough, you can increase the bore from 4.08" out .085" to 4.165" which is stock 390 and 401 bore diameter. If you use a 401 crank you will then have a poor-man's 401...but it will not have the thicker main webs of the 390 and 401 block. I've never done it, but I've heard from guys who have.
Since the 390 and 401 cranks are forged steel, they can be welded and destroked, or stroked, by regrinding the connecting-rod journals on the crank to increase or decrease the stroke .020"-.030". I've never done it, but supposedly its workable.
Honestly, if you have a 304, you have fewer speed parts to throw at it. The heads have smaller ports and valves, and chambers than a 360. The 360 and 401 intake manifolds might be made to work, but the intake ports may not match the ports in the heads. You can put 360 heads on it, with bigger ports, passages and valves, but it will not run well at lower RPM. 360 and 401 heads are essentially the same and valves inter change...not so with the 304 and 360 or 401.
Also, the combustion chamber volume changed in all the heads. from 1971 to 1972 they increase from 51cc chambers to 58cc. Then later the combustion chamber volume increased again to 62cc. This is 360 and 401 heads. In 1974 all exhaust valve seats were induction hardened to be used with unleaded gasoline. The hardening was typically into the head about .080". There is also a chanfge in exhaust manifold bolt hole size. I think 1979 was the cross-over year here. Generally the bolt holes on the outer two exhaust ports went from 3/8x16 to 5/16x18...IIRC. All AMC heads used "dogleg" exhaust ports from 1970 on. These flow about 13-205 better than the rectangular port AMC heads. they also outflow stock Small block Chevy heads from the era. But a modern Chevy V8 engine will out perform any AMC 360 in efficiency and power output every day of the week. But an AMC engine is just cool.
Over all a 360 is a good engine. The block is fairly strong, but not as strong as the 390/401 blocks. The con rods are cast instead of the 390/401 rods which are forged steel. the crank is cast iron versus the 390/401 which uses forged steel crank shaft. The 360 had a 2-barrel and several 4-barrel intake manifolds. The EGR and non EGR differ in the carb design also. Early, Non EGR intake manifold has a square bore design. Later, EGR, 4-barrel intakes use a unique spread bore design that only a Ford Motorcraft 4350 carb will bolt to. Good luck.
@@tinkerjeeppublications9823 😄Damn!!! You wrote me the New Testament 😄😁. What was it that you needed me to explain again?😳😄😁😆
Fuck...I did the manifold gasket wrong...now I'm going to redo it because I suspect that my intake ports aren't lined up properly