I love the detailed explanation of this video. I am in the process of buying a little Southbend and this will certainly help me learn even tho it is an Atlas.
Thanks for the cool video. I have the same machine, not quite as clean as yours though. Mine sat unused for close to 30 years before I got it. Once I go thru it and make sure any gremlins are gone it should be a great little machine. Jim
+Skip Tracer Seems like many of these machines didn't get much use in the past 20-30 years. I got this one out of an estate and I'm not sure it got much use there. Damn Gremlins!!!
not sure if it has been noted here yet but Delta was actually not the true maker on this machine, it was AMMCO or Automotive Maintenance Manufacturing Co.. Delta just badged them as their own through some deal they made. (13) Ammco 7" Shaper- Carbide Lathe Tool Modifications - TH-cam
+jster1963 I hear ya! I'm slowing getting what I want, I also have a handful off machines I'm on the look out for and a few I don't plan on getting for at least 2-3 more years when I have a more accessible shop to move stuff in and out of!
I have an Atlas 7B just like yours and love it. The "cutter/slapper" you mentioned is called the CLAPPER. You were close. It's a shame your going to sell it, I love mine...
I've got the South Bend shaper. There were two versions. The early model without the internal oil pump. It can be identified by having oil cups on each side of the ram. Or the much more desirable one with that pump. I bought a South Bend because my shop doesn't have a concrete floor. If it did I would have bought a much larger shaper. So if it were me and I was looking for a shaper I was going to keep? I'd start hunting for a 12"-14" stroke machine that's set up with a universal table. There much more versatile than the fixed table machines, and the larger industrial grade shapers are almost always far cheaper than the little ones. I'd also make sure the machine was complete with no missing parts including the vise. Missing parts if you can even find them will turn any machine into a money pit. A 3 ph motor on a shaper is a good thing, it will give a superior finish over a single phase machine. Add a VFD and you have one finger variable speed selection.
+Turning Point I've seen those SB machines with the oil pump systems and always thought they looked to be a more superior design as far as lubrication goes. I'll have to keep any eye out for another machine, and when I get a shop, I'll most likely pick up a larger one. I've been lucky with the two that I have owned that they both came with most of the original equipment including the vise. With this machine, they were trying to sell the vise separately, but I talked them into selling it together, which is how it should have been. Thanks for the great info, and thanks for watching and commenting!
+spitfire1821 In my opinion the SB constant pumped lube oil system is a far better and much more superior design. The funny part is just how simple and low tech the parts are. It would have cost very little to add that to any of the small crank shapers that were being sold at the time. All it is is a aluminum block with a reamed hole, an aluminum piston with rubber O rings to both seal the bore and prevent metal to metal contact. Then there's a rod that comes down off the bull wheel that drives the piston up and down as the bull wheel rotates. The cylinder block has a check valve so the oil gets sucked in. the piston changes directions and the oil that's now in the cylinder gets pushed up the oil lines. It should be able to be built and added to any shaper with a bit of thought and maybe a few Bijur? one shot oil system line restrictors. Add a few strategically placed holes, then the oil lines and it's done. I think the whole design for the pump, piston, and operating rod is in one of the SB shaper books or the manual. Once I got my SB shaper and understood how it gets lubed I wouldn't hesitate to add it to any crank shaper that didn't have one. I bought an Atlas horizontal mill that had a few parts missing. Like I said, money pit.:-( But the other thing to remember about these small machines is they were the the cheap machine tools that were available before the cheap offshore machines were have today were around. Despite what some may think, and the prices there now trying to get for these machines. They just weren't made that well in comparison to any of the smaller industrial machines. On some the dovetails and slides were just milled. Zero surface grinding at all. So even with just a surface grinder and no knowledge of hand scraping or fitting, you can still make massive improvements in both the accuracy of the machine, and in turn the accuracy of your parts and the surface finish you can get. IF YOUR CAREFUL !!!!! But those tightly fitted slides now require something like that pumped lube system if you want the machine to live. And you still have to understand and maintain good machine alignments while surface grinding them. Apology's for the length of this.
I dont know anything about vintage US tools brand, what I thought is they are rebadge each other a lot. But, I love 'em look very much especially pre 50s.
Not very many were re-badged other than Craftsman and Dunlap stuff which were built by other companies. Most older US machines were their own companies.
It's makeing some squeaky noise that it shouldn't be, somewhere in the drive train. Probably the countershaft needs some lube. Usually they are almost silent. Cool machine.
@@precisionmachineshedHi, plenty of info online with pics. I own an Elliot 10m. It is a 10 inch stroke machine that is built for use in a light engineering workshop. Very accurate with heavy duty slides. Lovely little machine to use. As a model engineer Im not too fond of these lightweight bench top milling machines and have done well using a heavy duty vertical slide on my Colchester Chipmaster lathe for milling with everything else done on the Elliot.
I know you got rid of your shaper a while back, but do you recall how to change the belt? The one on the operator side, not the one off the motor. I need to replace both, and can't figure out how to replace the one that goes on the step pulleys. Releasing the tension with the handle doesn't seem to give enough slack.
Question, I have an atlas 7B, runs fantastic and makes no weird sounds, but the automatic feed does not work, whether I have it set to feed right or left it does not move, anything you can suggest? I moved the feed adjustment out and still nothing. Any help?
I'm not sure. The feed machanisms on these shapers are finicky. I had a Delta shaper that I could never get working correctly. You may end up buying some used parts to get the feed ratchet working properly.
Check the tension on the cross feed screwnut on the left side of the table apron. It likes a specific amount of tension. At least mine does. I replaced the old original with a nylok.Might also be a sheared pin in the ratchet feed assembly.
Bill Oxley is right. There has to be a certain amount of tension or drag on the crossfeed screw for the ratchet to work, which is applied by tightening the nuts on the left end of the screw. Totally non-intuitive, but it works. I gleaned that information from Metal-Shapers-and-Planers@groups.io and it took care of the problem.
Yeah, it's been gone a while now. Ive had a couple and they were only used a couple times before I sold them. If you have the space great, but I didn't.
Well now if you are out there planing on a Atlas Shaper you best be ready to pay out through the nous, since 2015, now being 2022 seller want more the they are realy worth. I paid more then it was worth then and now that price is consedered cheap.
+Chris Anderson Somewhere between 350-500. Not that they ever came with much tooling, but this only had the one tool holder. They do make a few different ones such as a boring bar holder for keyways and such.
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
I love the detailed explanation of this video. I am in the process of buying a little Southbend and this will certainly help me learn even tho it is an Atlas.
Glad it was a help.
Ahh, the joys of being down where used tools are available. Makes me envious. What a sweet machine for cutting keyways. Good video.
+Douglas Thompson
Thanks, I know how to do it, but I have yet to cut a key-way with one of these machines.
.the,
5,
You
Thanks for the cool video. I have the same machine, not quite as clean as yours though.
Mine sat unused for close to 30 years before I got it.
Once I go thru it and make sure any gremlins are gone it should be a great little machine.
Jim
+Skip Tracer
Seems like many of these machines didn't get much use in the past 20-30 years. I got this one out of an estate and I'm not sure it got much use there. Damn Gremlins!!!
not sure if it has been noted here yet but Delta was actually not the true maker on this machine, it was AMMCO or Automotive Maintenance Manufacturing Co.. Delta just badged them as their own through some deal they made. (13) Ammco 7" Shaper- Carbide Lathe Tool Modifications - TH-cam
Many thanks for the video - very helpful🤓👍
Someday I'll have to get one! I have a few more things on my "I want that" list, but someday........thx for the vid
+jster1963
I hear ya! I'm slowing getting what I want, I also have a handful off machines I'm on the look out for and a few I don't plan on getting for at least 2-3 more years when I have a more accessible shop to move stuff in and out of!
I have an Atlas 7B just like yours and love it. The "cutter/slapper" you mentioned is called the CLAPPER. You were close. It's a shame your going to sell it, I love mine...
+ShawnColorado
I knew it was something like that just had a brain lapse. I'll get another shaper some day, just looking for the right one! Thanks!
I've got the South Bend shaper. There were two versions. The early model without the internal oil pump. It can be identified by having oil cups on each side of the ram. Or the much more desirable one with that pump. I bought a South Bend because my shop doesn't have a concrete floor. If it did I would have bought a much larger shaper. So if it were me and I was looking for a shaper I was going to keep? I'd start hunting for a 12"-14" stroke machine that's set up with a universal table. There much more versatile than the fixed table machines, and the larger industrial grade shapers are almost always far cheaper than the little ones. I'd also make sure the machine was complete with no missing parts including the vise. Missing parts if you can even find them will turn any machine into a money pit. A 3 ph motor on a shaper is a good thing, it will give a superior finish over a single phase machine. Add a VFD and you have one finger variable speed selection.
+Turning Point
I've seen those SB machines with the oil pump systems and always thought they looked to be a more superior design as far as lubrication goes. I'll have to keep any eye out for another machine, and when I get a shop, I'll most likely pick up a larger one. I've been lucky with the two that I have owned that they both came with most of the original equipment including the vise. With this machine, they were trying to sell the vise separately, but I talked them into selling it together, which is how it should have been. Thanks for the great info, and thanks for watching and commenting!
+spitfire1821
In my opinion the SB constant pumped lube oil system is a far better and much more superior design. The funny part is just how simple and low tech the parts are. It would have cost very little to add that to any of the small crank shapers that were being sold at the time. All it is is a aluminum block with a reamed hole, an aluminum piston with rubber O rings to both seal the bore and prevent metal to metal contact. Then there's a rod that comes down off the bull wheel that drives the piston up and down as the bull wheel rotates. The cylinder block has a check valve so the oil gets sucked in. the piston changes directions and the oil that's now in the cylinder gets pushed up the oil lines. It should be able to be built and added to any shaper with a bit of thought and maybe a few Bijur? one shot oil system line restrictors. Add a few strategically placed holes, then the oil lines and it's done. I think the whole design for the pump, piston, and operating rod is in one of the SB shaper books or the manual. Once I got my SB shaper and understood how it gets lubed I wouldn't hesitate to add it to any crank shaper that didn't have one.
I bought an Atlas horizontal mill that had a few parts missing. Like I said, money pit.:-( But the other thing to remember about these small machines is they were the the cheap machine tools that were available before the cheap offshore machines were have today were around. Despite what some may think, and the prices there now trying to get for these machines. They just weren't made that well in comparison to any of the smaller industrial machines. On some the dovetails and slides were just milled. Zero surface grinding at all. So even with just a surface grinder and no knowledge of hand scraping or fitting, you can still make massive improvements in both the accuracy of the machine, and in turn the accuracy of your parts and the surface finish you can get. IF YOUR CAREFUL !!!!! But those tightly fitted slides now require something like that pumped lube system if you want the machine to live. And you still have to understand and maintain good machine alignments while surface grinding them.
Apology's for the length of this.
Thanks for the video. I just picked up an Atlas 7B for the shop. Mine is a little earlier model and it doesn't have the front support for the table.
Cool glad you liked the video.
The model you have is actually a model #7
The model 7B are the ones with the foot
GREAT Machine, I Love it!
Waiting my Alba A1 Shaper theese days ! :)
+Matematiks
Thanks. They are neat little machines.
+Precision Machine Shed Arrived from 3000 km :)
www.imagebam.com/image/60685e484551266
As usual , good vid
Keep them coming
+Tony Tonyo
Thanks, Working on the next one right now!
Your feed timing is in reverse, your machine is feeding during the cutting stroke and should be feeding during the retraction stroke 👍
I dont know anything about vintage US tools brand, what I thought is they are rebadge each other a lot. But, I love 'em look very much especially pre 50s.
Not very many were re-badged other than Craftsman and Dunlap stuff which were built by other companies. Most older US machines were their own companies.
It's makeing some squeaky noise that it shouldn't be, somewhere in the drive train. Probably the countershaft needs some lube. Usually they are almost silent. Cool machine.
If you get the opportunity try the British Elliot 10m 10 in stroke shaper.
I actually just picked up a German Klopp 425. I have yet to see an Elliot in person.
@@precisionmachineshedHi, plenty of info online with pics. I own an Elliot 10m. It is a 10 inch stroke machine that is built for use in a light engineering workshop. Very accurate with heavy duty slides. Lovely little machine to use. As a model engineer Im not too fond of these lightweight bench top milling machines and have done well using a heavy duty vertical slide on my Colchester Chipmaster lathe for milling with everything else done on the Elliot.
I know you got rid of your shaper a while back, but do you recall how to change the belt? The one on the operator side, not the one off the motor. I need to replace both, and can't figure out how to replace the one that goes on the step pulleys. Releasing the tension with the handle doesn't seem to give enough slack.
I can't recall.
@@precisionmachineshed No problem, I figured it out. Thanks for the reply. :)
Question, I have an atlas 7B, runs fantastic and makes no weird sounds, but the automatic feed does not work, whether I have it set to feed right or left it does not move, anything you can suggest? I moved the feed adjustment out and still nothing. Any help?
I'm not sure. The feed machanisms on these shapers are finicky. I had a Delta shaper that I could never get working correctly. You may end up buying some used parts to get the feed ratchet working properly.
Check the tension on the cross feed screwnut on the left side of the table apron. It likes a specific amount of tension. At least mine does. I replaced the old original with a nylok.Might also be a sheared pin in the ratchet feed assembly.
Bill Oxley is right. There has to be a certain amount of tension or drag on the crossfeed screw for the ratchet to work, which is applied by tightening the nuts on the left end of the screw. Totally non-intuitive, but it works. I gleaned that information from Metal-Shapers-and-Planers@groups.io and it took care of the problem.
Argh I just found this. I would have bought this lol always my luck. Great vid
Yeah, it's been gone a while now. Ive had a couple and they were only used a couple times before I sold them. If you have the space great, but I didn't.
Precision Machine Shed, I agree. But I still want one and the atlas mill
One of those little mills would be fun.
Well now if you are out there planing on a Atlas Shaper you best be ready to pay out through the nous, since 2015, now being 2022 seller want more the they are realy worth. I paid more then it was worth then and now that price is consedered cheap.
That thing you screwed out is a grease cup. Fill it up and turn it regularly.
+Simon P
Thanks, I figured it out, pretty nifty design how it will compress grease in there when you tighten the cap.
That knoking is most likely Part# S7-19 "block" worn out, should not sound like a washer machine
Did you sale it?
Yes, quite some time ago.
nice machine how much did you have to pay for it?
+Chris Anderson
Somewhere between 350-500. Not that they ever came with much tooling, but this only had the one tool holder. They do make a few different ones such as a boring bar holder for keyways and such.
There's a crank that goes in for manual advance
+Steven
Makes sense.
do you remember how much it weighed?
It was about 3-400 lbs or so.
The motor is ballbearing, there is a screw that needs to be removed for oiling at both ends of the motor, just a few drops does it