Tom Davis I just watched a German review of these tires and schwabble is closer than schwall-bee. The German guy said like “schwy-bell.” It’s the croissant of cycling. Which way should I pronounce now?
bro, so brave to do this with a track pump. I heard most dudes need a large hadron collider to assist in the conversion. Kudos to you, dad jokes and all!
I followed this guide today and had a similar pain free experience on my Canyon AL 7. Thanks for the video. I have never ran tubeless before so lets see how it goes..
Hey I am planning to get a Grail AL 7.0 soon, and go tubeless, I have never used tubeless before, how is the experience compared to tubes? and also what are your opinions on the Grail?
@@alejandrogiraldo1 Awesome so far... Running on lower pressures and the wheels roll a lot smoother.. Conversion was simple. I have not had a puncture yet (touch wood) so can't comment on how good the setup is when you get a flat.
@@oclumhainabu Hey just got my Grail AL 7 a week ago and been thinking about converting to tubeless. How has your long term experience been with Tubeless and the bike in general?
@@andreaspauk9828 Bike in general is great, still going strong. I'm happy I swapped to tubeless and feels great on the road and trails. It is not without its maintenance though. Make sure levels of sealant are topped up and I also take spare tyre plugs with me just in case.
Same experience with Canyon Grizl and Reynolds ATR rims. Probably done 100 kms on the G1 Bite and when i changed to tubeless it was a breeze compared to my old bike. So nice to do when it all just works
I had almost the same experience: Brand New DTswiss GR1600 with New 40 mm G ones... Instant seal with a Joe blow and no Fluid. This Was more effortless than with a tube 😅 But I just did the Front tire to See how tubeless works for me in the long run
The other little tip I've seen is to use a little sealant around the valve before you push it all the way in. Guess to help fully seal around the valve as only doing it finger tight.
I wanted to let you know that after several latex baths and failures I am now running tubeless. There is a new product from Specialized called RapidAir sealant, which has been specially designed to be run at a high pressure (72psi+). Apparently it's ok to use co2 with it. It's expensive at $10 per 60ml bottle. Each tube takes a full bottle. Also I gave up on commercial bike syringes and went for Amazon available syringes for glue using blunt tips. They're really high quality. I'm using BSTEAN 100ml Syringe with 4 Inch 14G uger lock needles with a blunt tip. Those 14g will go through an e*13 stem which I'm using. Thanks for all your help and shared experiences.
I can’t believe how big that cassette is. Must be climbing 20%. Great technique in this video for mounting tubeless. I like Orange Endurance sealant as it does not have ammonia and hence no corrosion.
Shane is qualified use dad jokes and pizza pie sized cassettes.. he has joined my club: bald middle aged man with kids..his next move is adding stem spacer and telling the kids to get off the lawn.
Very nice bike! Tried most sealants available in the UK and stuck with Orange Seal Endurance for the last 18 months without issues. Enjoy the groad! (PS. Doc Blue is same as Stan’s).
I have the GR-1600 wheels and Schwalbe tubeless tyres. I love the combo. Yes they really are that easy to fit. No booster pump, just a normal track pump does the job.
Great video! That went brilliantly. When it comes to sealants I heard a little while ago that someone at Bike Radar was working on piece looking into which sealants functioned best as well as which ones were environmentally friendlier than others. Apparently some are straight up toxic.
I converted these tires with a black sidewall on a Fulcrum 7 DB wheelset to tubeless a couple days ago... And have the same experience... It was very easy with no problems at all! For tire prssure. I would start at 2.5 bars rear and 2.3 bars in the front...
I have used stans and orange seal, both work great. Orange seal saved my bacon one day when I got stuck on a trail covered in millions *ish of cat heads, my tires were coated with the buggers, I did get covered in sealant when I removed them at speed with my foot. I lost some PSI but I got home fine! (23PSI when I started). Only fails of tubeless have been myself when I don't refresh the sealant or pull back the rim tape by mistake. Gravel riding I've heard mid to high 20's on the JRA podcast, I went from 40 down to mid 20's on tubes on my hardtail on a 70km corrugated gravel ride. anyway, this is more mountain bike stuff so YMMV Great video, want to see more on the grail! thanks Shane
NedT how have you found your tubless on corrugated roads? Had the same issue of the tubeless unsealing. Revealing later. But 2k of rutted roads. 2 times and gone soft by the end.
Matthew Locker I’ve never had an issue with corrugations or slamming down rock gardens, again I’m mostly MTB but I run 25/30mm rims with 2.0/2.3 depending on the bike. I also run gorilla tape (cloth tape) as my tubeless rim tape (the expensive cloth tape is cheap compared to the outrageous price of tubeless tape) the width is the whole inner width of the rim. 1 wrap around the rim with some overlap over the valve stem. If it’s not sealing with a hand pump or a loose fit do another wrap until it’s sealed. If you go to low in pressure you may burp your tyre and it is possible to pinch flat the tyre on sharp edges (curbs/gutters). How old was the sealant and rim tape? Just Ike tires they are consumables.
OK Shane, good job! But that's only the first and rather easy part of it. Turns out that some rim/tyre combinations tend to lose air pressure afterwards (i.e. over night). One way to overcome this is to start riding the newly converted tyres with a good 4-5 bar pressure and let the sealant do its work. I made the mistake of not doing this and the tyres would always lose pressure over night with sealant coming out and not getting dry ...
Shane, the Schwalbe tubeless sealant has a very similar formula compared to the stan's. I have mafe great experiences with the effetto mariposa caffelatex! They sealed most of my punctures. The ones they didn't, I used maxalamis!
I'm a big fan of Muc Off sealant. The big advantage of it is that like most it doesn't dry out and form annoying sticky balls inside the tyres that are a pain to remove, it simply washes of with water. Which really good if you're ever needing to to do any wheel repairs etc. Great content and I hope you're enjoying the gravel experience. Welcome to the dark side 😂
Don't be surprise why those tires went in so easy... Once you had them mounted with a tube inside, the bead got well formed.. After that, it's really easy. In fact, that's the method that is recommended when having difficulty mounting tubeless tires... ie use a tube first. haha.
@@souloftheage I almost always do this, especially when the tubeless tires come folded and are creased. That crease sometimes make it difficult to create the initial seal.
Yep, have fitted my 2.8" 27.5" schwalbe rocket rons with a hi volume Topeak floor pump and that technique (gently slipping out the tube on one side without popping off the bead on the other makes you add more air than can escape later on).
Great video. Thanks. Will be really interested in what you think of the Grail. I have the CF7.0 and absolutely love it. Worth putting your Hunts on it - might need to swap the discs - and give it a road review too, for those like me who want a versatile winter bike. With Roval CL50s on mine, it flies on the road and loved taking it off-road at the end of the summer too. End of N+1??!
30-35 is about what I'm using on my Specialized Sequoia with 700x42 tires, and I'm 90 kg. Now I use the Speciallized Sawtooth tires and they are a bit on the stiff side but I guess you could experiment with slightly lowering the pressure. With 47 mm "road plus" tires on 650b wheels I typically stay below 30 psi, both front and rear. Also, your experience mimics mine when it comes to setting up gravel tires tubeless. They just pop straight on with just a track pump, I haven't even had to use soapy water. And then they just stay there. I still haven't dared to try tubeless road tires, for various reasons.
Great video as always. Might I suggest a PARK TOOL VC-1 VALVE CORE TOOL (or something similar) to toss in a saddle bag? I have had a valve core shoot out when I tried to drop the pressure and lost it immediately, then needing to call the missus for a ride since I didn't have a spare. Cheers!
As far as I know the doc blue is made by stans. For a guide to sealants in real life check out bike radar test on about 10 different manufacturers. I have used Stans for about 10 years and it does the job. Try Stans Dart for a quick repair of a hole which is too big for the sealant to fix. I have had the same quick install on my Schwalbe Pro one on my road bike. The key to success is finding a brand of rim and tyre that work together then stick with it.
Good video; I've found switching to tubeless hit & miss. I can do exactly the same for front and back wheels, yet only one will work. So, another layer of rim tape and/or another type of valve....it can be pretty frustrating.
Thoughts @ 00:00:00 - Can't wait to watch Shane lose his composure on this on :D Thoughts @ 04:00:00 - Righto seems like he might have this under control .... now expecting 0 expletives. ... Yep Shane nailed it. Waiting for the new channel "The Shane Miller Llama Gravel Hour" to pop up ;)
Orange Seal Endurance. I find I can go 6-8 months on one charge. Come fall (now) I switch to winter rims and start with fresh sealant after a good cleaning of the inside of the rim.
I always leave the soapy water on until after the sealant is added and the tires are up to pressure. Then shake the wheels to get sealant around the bead. No bubbles = happy days!
Tried this a couple days ago with my bike, a Canyon Grail AL, same rim tire combination. Unfortunately there was coming air out of the rim joint of the front wheel. So I broke up and put the tube back into it. Any tips what to do now?
60cc seems on the high end of sealant. I run Schwalbe 32s and used 30-40cc(not too precise at the Allen home) and they have held tight for one year.. But I also have much higher pressure, so maybe that's the difference?. MUCH different to get a new tubeless tire on: thick bead makes it hard
Thanks for the Video! How did the "Schwabble" perform on tubeless? Did you run into any problems? Heard other have problems with leaking on the sidewalls on othes tires.
What do you think of the wheelset? I picked up the GR1600 a few months ago while I was waiting on XDR hubs for my other wheels. They're somewhat heavy but seem to ride nicely with the Rene-Herse Barlow Pass I put on them.
Thanks for a great tutorial. Did those rims come with proper rim tape or did you remove the original rim tape and replace with new before installing the rest? And if your running TL on the original rim tape, how is it holding up? Ordered a bike with the same rims and wanna convert, but not sure if I need new tape or not.
Silca just added a tire pressure calculator on their website for all cycling disciplines. Just add your weight and weight of bicycle, tire width and cycling discipline and then your given the exact tire pressures front/rear.
I've been waiting for a puncture before converting my Canyon over to tubeless. 9 months in and still waiting. But after seeing this, I may have a task for the weekend.
How do u like the yellow pump is it holding up good? (Probably should get something to check tire pressure and faster pumping of mountain bike tires is a plus) or do u have a better option
Oh my god, soapy water ftw. It suddenly clicked as to why - so there is less friction between the rim tape and the tire, which means it can slip under pressure and hook on quickly. I'm ecstatic I was able to get both of my tires on after soapy water, while had no luck with it before using it. Thx!!
My bike mechanic buddy swears by Stans. I used to use Orange but he jokes that the only flat tubeless setups that come into the shop happen to also use Orange. One data point, but perhaps it's a good one :)
Tyre pressures are such a personal thing. Run a certain pressure. Then change it. Then ask yourself was that better, worse or the same? 👍🏻 This worse better or the same? method works with everything. Especially when setting up MTB suspension.
Just did mine but didnt get the popping sound on the rear, and one the front I think it might have unseated when I deflated, and there was no popping sound when I reinflated. That said, it all looks good with a nice smooth tyre-rim interface and holding air. Should I be concerned?
Dear Shane, the end of last year‘s bike season I went to tubeless with my gravel bike (same gravel bike from Canyon). However, what I have observed is that both tires loose air after a couple of days, maybe a week, and before each ride, I had to check and adjust the pressure. Is this a normal behavior of the tubeless setup? If not, what would you recommend? Thanks in advance. Br. Edgar
well... first to mention it... interesting... regarding sealant Shane... the real trick is.... glitter... add a small amount of glitter (stuff you use for arts and crafts, purple works the best :) ) to which ever sealant you prefer... acts like platelets and seals up a puncture much faster...
Need advice regarding pressure when I go tubeless.... Got a Ribble CGR on order, coming with Mavic Allroad UST 700c Wheels and Schwable G One Allroad 700x40c tyres. Do mixed riding, mainly road due to club; with weight around 82kg. What PSI would guys recommend?
Hey Shane, nice video. Did you know, that you can remove the lever of the thru axles. Aero gainz and our Weightweenie Rides of Japan would appreciate it too. ;)
Great video, thank you! I've recently ordered a Grail CF SL 8 Di2 (cannot wait to ride it) and the guys from Canyon told me that the rim tape will have to be replaced for tubeless rim tape. I don't see you/Shane changing this and it looks like we've got exactly the same tyres and wheels. Any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance! :)
Shoulda weighed the wheels before and after the conversion. I primarily use road tubeless for the weight savings. I use a spray bottle with soapy water to help seat the tire
Why the soapy water? Wide tyres like these slip on quite easily. I actually made my own grail tires tubeless last week. I did need a tubeless booster for one of the tires, but soapy water is to check for leaks. Getting the beads to seat is easy with supple tires like these :)
@@gplama Me tubsie boy, so I'm immured in steel. Which I love so all is good. I had one paranoid test ride on a CF, nice ride and it didn't crack.Phew! 75 kg is in the godilocks zone. Lucky chap, lay off the kebabs.
I've used tyre levers on every tubeless mounting I've done both old and new tyres and I havent had any issues seating them. I don't understand why people keep insisting that you can't user levers. Also Doc Blue = Stans sealant.
I can't get them off with my fingers. *shrug*. Doc Blue = Stans.. I spotted this last night looking into other sealants. I never knew they were one and the same. Any tips for the best goop to use?
It's a bit round... the Pro Stealth, Cadex Boost, and Power saddles I've been using are a lot flatter which my sit parts has agreed with. More kms required to get a better feel - so to speak.
You cant always blame tubeless, if something isnt working its more the rim / tire combo, I put some pirelli cinturato 28mm tubeless tires on my 17mm int. giant wheels and could basically pop onto the bead with a hand pump and at 0 psi was hard to pop off the bead, well I swapped to some roval 21mm int. wheels with same tires but new and I literally needed 500psi nitrogen and no core in my tubeless valve to pop onto the bead, no bike shop in Australia would be able to get it on :) Also its dangerous at about 20psi the tire just pops off the bead, 4000km no punctures and it works just fine but its a terrible setup, it would be interesting to see if a inner tube would pop it onto the bead.
I have used several sealants and I think this is the best! I see it quite Often after riding that I had a 'flat' and the sealant sealed the hole even without I noticed. I only had one real flat but that was a slice of more than 1cm, so impossible to seal! I like it a lot!
Weight 150lbs, 650b 42mm tire I run at 26psi front and 28 psi rear. But my gravel is much bumpier than your. 700c 40mm have even more volume so you might be able to run similar pressure, i guess.
Hi - need some help to select the right gravel tire. I currently have the Bontrager GR2 Team Issue Gravel Tire (700c 40mm) - but get flats all the time (even when i ride on the normal street - 1 week riding - flat - 4 flats on the back tire, 1 flat on the front tire in the last 4 weeks). Which one has the best quality and prevents flats Vittoria, Panracer GravelKing SK +, Sepialized Pathfinder Pro, WTB, or Schwalbe G1? My terrain: Road and also some Offroad (forrest with gravel and fine sand). I would say 60% road, 40% offroad...
@@Gerald-iz7mv Whatever I can find in 38-40mm that's hookless compatible. There's a shortage on a lot of things at the moment, tyres being one of them.
I have the same tires and the same wheels also brand new I can’t get them to seat to save my life. Tried bunches of soap as well as bringing a compressor in to the process and they still won’t seat. I have no issues with road tires but for some reason I can’t get these to seat for anything.
Shane Miller - GPLama I would be pretty bummed if that turned out to be the fix since they are brand new from canyon literally have never been ridden. I’ll give it a go though but the tape does look pretty spot on.
Shane Miller - GPLama yep no valve core and using a compressor. I can road tires to seat in about 20 seconds with no problem but for some reason this set up has been giving me fits.
So I don’t know why or how but after swapping the tires and valve stems and giving it a couple days while I was tied up at work they seated within seconds while using my compressor. 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️ I have no clue what the deal was but I didn’t use any soap or other tricks I just blasted them with no core and they popped right in. Got the new Stages GRX PM installed and went for my first ride on the new grail yesterday.
That feeling of setting up tubeless without any issues never gets old.
why did Canyon supply the wheels with tubes?
Came for the tubeless tips, stayed for the 'Schwabble'! 🤣
Tom Davis I just watched a German review of these tires and schwabble is closer than schwall-bee. The German guy said like “schwy-bell.” It’s the croissant of cycling. Which way should I pronounce now?
@@HamBone123456789ten "Sch-val-ber"
@@andydeere52 sch-val-bert-einstein
We say in german schwal-be. But the e in a half.
bro, so brave to do this with a track pump.
I heard most dudes need a large hadron collider to assist in the conversion.
Kudos to you, dad jokes and all!
hahahah! I love comments like this. Thank you. :)
Your gravel roads are smother than our tarmac roads in uk!
I followed this guide today and had a similar pain free experience on my Canyon AL 7. Thanks for the video. I have never ran tubeless before so lets see how it goes..
Nice work!
Hey I am planning to get a Grail AL 7.0 soon, and go tubeless, I have never used tubeless before, how is the experience compared to tubes? and also what are your opinions on the Grail?
@@alejandrogiraldo1 Awesome so far... Running on lower pressures and the wheels roll a lot smoother.. Conversion was simple. I have not had a puncture yet (touch wood) so can't comment on how good the setup is when you get a flat.
@@oclumhainabu Hey just got my Grail AL 7 a week ago and been thinking about converting to tubeless. How has your long term experience been with Tubeless and the bike in general?
@@andreaspauk9828 Bike in general is great, still going strong. I'm happy I swapped to tubeless and feels great on the road and trails. It is not without its maintenance though. Make sure levels of sealant are topped up and I also take spare tyre plugs with me just in case.
As opposed to soapy water, use a bit of sealant on the bead. Helps to glue the tyre to the rim, so stops burping at ultra low cyclocross pressures.
Same experience with Canyon Grizl and Reynolds ATR rims. Probably done 100 kms on the G1 Bite and when i changed to tubeless it was a breeze compared to my old bike. So nice to do when it all just works
I just converted my Grail to tubeless using Schwalbe’s own kit - same as you’re experience - popped on first time using a std. track pump.
Any issues since conversion? I just did the same yesterday..
I had almost the same experience:
Brand New DTswiss GR1600 with New 40 mm G ones... Instant seal with a Joe blow and no Fluid.
This Was more effortless than with a tube 😅
But I just did the Front tire to See how tubeless works for me in the long run
The other little tip I've seen is to use a little sealant around the valve before you push it all the way in. Guess to help fully seal around the valve as only doing it finger tight.
Thank you. It was in time for guests.
Spammer
I wanted to let you know that after several latex baths and failures I am now running tubeless. There is a new product from Specialized called RapidAir sealant, which has been specially designed to be run at a high pressure (72psi+). Apparently it's ok to use co2 with it. It's expensive at $10 per 60ml bottle. Each tube takes a full bottle. Also I gave up on commercial bike syringes and went for Amazon available syringes for glue using blunt tips. They're really high quality. I'm using BSTEAN 100ml Syringe with 4 Inch 14G uger lock needles with a blunt tip. Those 14g will go through an e*13 stem which I'm using. Thanks for all your help and shared experiences.
Great tutorial! Keep it up! Greetings from Switzerland : )
I can’t believe how big that cassette is. Must be climbing 20%. Great technique in this video for mounting tubeless. I like Orange Endurance sealant as it does not have ammonia and hence no corrosion.
Shane is qualified use dad jokes and pizza pie sized cassettes.. he has joined my club: bald middle aged man with kids..his next move is adding stem spacer and telling the kids to get off the lawn.
Very nice bike! Tried most sealants available in the UK and stuck with Orange Seal Endurance for the last 18 months without issues. Enjoy the groad! (PS. Doc Blue is same as Stan’s).
I have the GR-1600 wheels and Schwalbe tubeless tyres. I love the combo. Yes they really are that easy to fit. No booster pump, just a normal track pump does the job.
Orange Seal is the best IMO. Been using it for years and it always seals well and doesnt clump as much as Stans.
Great video! That went brilliantly. When it comes to sealants I heard a little while ago that someone at Bike Radar was working on piece looking into which sealants functioned best as well as which ones were environmentally friendlier than others. Apparently some are straight up toxic.
Stran's is promoted as not toxic. The media materials says just wipe it off your hands onto your jersey. It comes off in the wash.
I converted these tires with a black sidewall on a Fulcrum 7 DB wheelset to tubeless a couple days ago... And have the same experience... It was very easy with no problems at all! For tire prssure. I would start at 2.5 bars rear and 2.3 bars in the front...
I have used stans and orange seal, both work great. Orange seal saved my bacon one day when I got stuck on a trail covered in millions *ish of cat heads, my tires were coated with the buggers, I did get covered in sealant when I removed them at speed with my foot. I lost some PSI but I got home fine! (23PSI when I started).
Only fails of tubeless have been myself when I don't refresh the sealant or pull back the rim tape by mistake.
Gravel riding I've heard mid to high 20's on the JRA podcast, I went from 40 down to mid 20's on tubes on my hardtail on a 70km corrugated gravel ride.
anyway, this is more mountain bike stuff so YMMV
Great video, want to see more on the grail! thanks Shane
Cheers Ned. I'll check out the orange seal next round.
NedT how have you found your tubless on corrugated roads? Had the same issue of the tubeless unsealing. Revealing later. But 2k of rutted roads. 2 times and gone soft by the end.
Matthew Locker I’ve never had an issue with corrugations or slamming down rock gardens, again I’m mostly MTB but I run 25/30mm rims with 2.0/2.3 depending on the bike.
I also run gorilla tape (cloth tape) as my tubeless rim tape (the expensive cloth tape is cheap compared to the outrageous price of tubeless tape) the width is the whole inner width of the rim. 1 wrap around the rim with some overlap over the valve stem. If it’s not sealing with a hand pump or a loose fit do another wrap until it’s sealed.
If you go to low in pressure you may burp your tyre and it is possible to pinch flat the tyre on sharp edges (curbs/gutters).
How old was the sealant and rim tape? Just Ike tires they are consumables.
Just converted my Grail to tubeless, easy as pie! Thanks for the video :-D
Awesome. And stay tuned! I'm back on the gravelly stuff very soon! (I can't wait!)
OK Shane, good job! But that's only the first and rather easy part of it. Turns out that some rim/tyre combinations tend to lose air pressure afterwards (i.e. over night). One way to overcome this is to start riding the newly converted tyres with a good 4-5 bar pressure and let the sealant do its work. I made the mistake of not doing this and the tyres would always lose pressure over night with sealant coming out and not getting dry ...
Thanks for this tip!
Shane, the Schwalbe tubeless sealant has a very similar formula compared to the stan's. I have mafe great experiences with the effetto mariposa caffelatex! They sealed most of my punctures. The ones they didn't, I used maxalamis!
I need to make a ring tone with that tire seating sound.
I'm a big fan of Muc Off sealant. The big advantage of it is that like most it doesn't dry out and form annoying sticky balls inside the tyres that are a pain to remove, it simply washes of with water. Which really good if you're ever needing to to do any wheel repairs etc. Great content and I hope you're enjoying the gravel experience. Welcome to the dark side 😂
Don't be surprise why those tires went in so easy... Once you had them mounted with a tube inside, the bead got well formed.. After that, it's really easy. In fact, that's the method that is recommended when having difficulty mounting tubeless tires... ie use a tube first. haha.
agreed.
@@souloftheage I almost always do this, especially when the tubeless tires come folded and are creased. That crease sometimes make it difficult to create the initial seal.
Yep, have fitted my 2.8" 27.5" schwalbe rocket rons with a hi volume Topeak floor pump and that technique (gently slipping out the tube on one side without popping off the bead on the other makes you add more air than can escape later on).
Or/and these rims have the Bead Lock or Bead Hump. All tubeless rims should have that. Makes life so much better.
Great video. Thanks. Will be really interested in what you think of the Grail. I have the CF7.0 and absolutely love it. Worth putting your Hunts on it - might need to swap the discs - and give it a road review too, for those like me who want a versatile winter bike. With Roval CL50s on mine, it flies on the road and loved taking it off-road at the end of the summer too. End of N+1??!
30-35 is about what I'm using on my Specialized Sequoia with 700x42 tires, and I'm 90 kg. Now I use the Speciallized Sawtooth tires and they are a bit on the stiff side but I guess you could experiment with slightly lowering the pressure. With 47 mm "road plus" tires on 650b wheels I typically stay below 30 psi, both front and rear.
Also, your experience mimics mine when it comes to setting up gravel tires tubeless. They just pop straight on with just a track pump, I haven't even had to use soapy water. And then they just stay there. I still haven't dared to try tubeless road tires, for various reasons.
Great video as always. Might I suggest a PARK TOOL VC-1 VALVE CORE TOOL (or something similar) to toss in a saddle bag? I have had a valve core shoot out when I tried to drop the pressure and lost it immediately, then needing to call the missus for a ride since I didn't have a spare. Cheers!
Thanks for the film. Gonna try this soon. Will be using Peaty's Biofibre sealant.
You pronounced SCHWALBE in nearly perfect german! Thank you!
pronounciation tip from a German: Schwalbe ist pronounced "shwalbe" with a spoken e (like in porsche). great vid!
Thanks! 🇩🇪
(and it means "swallow" as in the bird :-) )
This "shwabl" was really unforgettable. Maybe it was even better than the original.
@@ЙцукенСын Right! Especialley since "shwabl" sounds like "wobble" in german.
As far as I know the doc blue is made by stans. For a guide to sealants in real life check out bike radar test on about 10 different manufacturers. I have used Stans for about 10 years and it does the job. Try Stans Dart for a quick repair of a hole which is too big for the sealant to fix. I have had the same quick install on my Schwalbe Pro one on my road bike. The key to success is finding a brand of rim and tyre that work together then stick with it.
Good video; I've found switching to tubeless hit & miss. I can do exactly the same for front and back wheels, yet only one will work. So, another layer of rim tape and/or another type of valve....it can be pretty frustrating.
Best DYI on 2-bless - THANKS, Mate. As always, super useful :-)
Thanks for posting, away to do the same thing... What size of valves was used? would 40mm work?
Been using Endurance Orange sealant with results, would recommend Stan's second. Cheers!
Just looking into Orange now. It'll be next on my shopping list.
Using this also after recommendations, so far so good. Also tried Muc-Off on recent GP5000 conversion, seems decent and favourable reviews.
7:15 30 on front and 35 on rear as recommended? I see printed on the side of the Schwalbe tire: 45 - 70 psi
What am I missing?
10 to 15 psi.
@@oldanslo This is not a MB.
Thoughts @ 00:00:00 - Can't wait to watch Shane lose his composure on this on :D
Thoughts @ 04:00:00 - Righto seems like he might have this under control .... now expecting 0 expletives.
... Yep Shane nailed it. Waiting for the new channel "The Shane Miller Llama Gravel Hour" to pop up ;)
I recall Schwalbe is German for Sparrow or some other small bird... it was the name for the Me-262 jet aircraft :)
Been using Orange sealant for a long time now on both mountain and road.
Me too. I use their endurance sealant because it's supposed to stay good for twice as long.
Jeez, you could almost run track silk tyres on those gravel roads!! 😀
Much better this time, good job!
@Shane Miller - Great video, and channel. I am about to do this to the same tyres on the same bike. Do you remember what valves you used?
The ones they supplied. Not sure what type they were.
Wow! It never goes that smooth for me. That was awesome
New tyres + fresh/new rims + soapy goodness = winning combo. I think my relief was captured well :)
Orange Seal Endurance. I find I can go 6-8 months on one charge. Come fall (now) I switch to winter rims and start with fresh sealant after a good cleaning of the inside of the rim.
I always leave the soapy water on until after the sealant is added and the tires are up to pressure. Then shake the wheels to get sealant around the bead. No bubbles = happy days!
Tried this a couple days ago with my bike, a Canyon Grail AL, same rim tire combination. Unfortunately there was coming air out of the rim joint of the front wheel. So I broke up and put the tube back into it. Any tips what to do now?
I'd replace the rim tape and try again.
My experience with converting the Grail was exactly the same! Effortless with that rim and tire pairing.
60cc seems on the high end of sealant. I run Schwalbe 32s and used 30-40cc(not too precise at the Allen home) and they have held tight for one year.. But I also have much higher pressure, so maybe that's the difference?. MUCH different to get a new tubeless tire on: thick bead makes it hard
Wrong message.
You pronounce "Schwalbe" perfect!
Thanks for the Video! How did the "Schwabble" perform on tubeless? Did you run into any problems? Heard other have problems with leaking on the sidewalls on othes tires.
No issues on the rides I did on these.
What do you think of the wheelset? I picked up the GR1600 a few months ago while I was waiting on XDR hubs for my other wheels. They're somewhat heavy but seem to ride nicely with the Rene-Herse Barlow Pass I put on them.
Thanks for a great tutorial. Did those rims come with proper rim tape or did you remove the original rim tape and replace with new before installing the rest? And if your running TL on the original rim tape, how is it holding up? Ordered a bike with the same rims and wanna convert, but not sure if I need new tape or not.
The tape that was on them was fine 👌🏼
Silca just added a tire pressure calculator on their website for all cycling disciplines. Just add your weight and weight of bicycle, tire width and cycling discipline and then your given the exact tire pressures front/rear.
I've been waiting for a puncture before converting my Canyon over to tubeless. 9 months in and still waiting. But after seeing this, I may have a task for the weekend.
Let me know how it goes. 🚲👌🏼
Probably get a puncture first ride with tubeless so !
How do u like the yellow pump is it holding up good? (Probably should get something to check tire pressure and faster pumping of mountain bike tires is a plus) or do u have a better option
Yep, the Joe Blow Sport is holding up well. amzn.to/3cBHVmb
Great video! Any resources on recommended pressure? You mentioned you found 35 & 30 for your weight on 40s on gravel.
It really depends on your weight, the surface(s) you're riding, and preference.
Oh my god, soapy water ftw. It suddenly clicked as to why - so there is less friction between the rim tape and the tire, which means it can slip under pressure and hook on quickly. I'm ecstatic I was able to get both of my tires on after soapy water, while had no luck with it before using it. Thx!!
Looking forward to do the same thing in a view weeks from now...
My bike mechanic buddy swears by Stans. I used to use Orange but he jokes that the only flat tubeless setups that come into the shop happen to also use Orange. One data point, but perhaps it's a good one :)
Tyre pressures are such a personal thing.
Run a certain pressure. Then change it.
Then ask yourself was that better, worse or the same? 👍🏻
This worse better or the same? method works with everything.
Especially when setting up MTB suspension.
Just did mine but didnt get the popping sound on the rear, and one the front I think it might have unseated when I deflated, and there was no popping sound when I reinflated. That said, it all looks good with a nice smooth tyre-rim interface and holding air. Should I be concerned?
Sometimes they'll slide on without pops. As long as the tyre is even when you spin it, you're good.
beautiful bike!
Dear Shane,
the end of last year‘s bike season I went to tubeless with my gravel bike (same gravel bike from Canyon).
However, what I have observed is that both tires loose air after a couple of days, maybe a week, and before each ride, I had to check and adjust the pressure.
Is this a normal behavior of the tubeless setup? If not, what would you recommend?
Thanks in advance.
Br. Edgar
I find all tubeless setups will lose air overnight so will always need a top-up before riding.
well... first to mention it... interesting... regarding sealant Shane... the real trick is.... glitter... add a small amount of glitter (stuff you use for arts and crafts, purple works the best :) ) to which ever sealant you prefer... acts like platelets and seals up a puncture much faster...
I’ve heard of this. Never dared try. And whoever sprays that all over the next bunch ride will forever be known as Princess Sparkle! 🦄 🤣
The ,, schwabel” g one tyres 😂👌
Need advice regarding pressure when I go tubeless....
Got a Ribble CGR on order, coming with Mavic Allroad UST 700c Wheels and Schwable G One Allroad 700x40c tyres.
Do mixed riding, mainly road due to club; with weight around 82kg.
What PSI would guys recommend?
Hey Shane, nice video. Did you know, that you can remove the lever of the thru axles. Aero gainz and our Weightweenie Rides of Japan would appreciate it too. ;)
For the longest time I didn't know that. I learned about it from a different Lama video.
Good work :-D I bet you could have skipped the dish washing liquid... Congrats on the little one :-)
It doubled as a tyre cleaner after a few kms in the dust and dirt. :)
Nice saddle to bar drop on the grail! Always a challenge to achieve that on gravel/endurance bikes. Wot size Shane?
This one is medium.
Thanks for convincing me to try it out on my Grail! What valves are you using?
The supplied valves. Not sure which ones they are.
Great video, thank you! I've recently ordered a Grail CF SL 8 Di2 (cannot wait to ride it) and the guys from Canyon told me that the rim tape will have to be replaced for tubeless rim tape. I don't see you/Shane changing this and it looks like we've got exactly the same tyres and wheels. Any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance! :)
It depends what they ship with I guess. This video was a while back.
@@gplama Hiya Shane, thanks for your reply. Is there any chance you remember which rim tape yours came with? 😅
No idea.
is the standard equiped rimtape in these DT swiss good enough, no need to add aftermarket tubeless rimtape?
I used what was on the wheels for this conversion (iirc).
I’ve got the AL version of that bike with the same tires. Where can you find replacements to buy? I can’t find the tan ones, just black.
Hey Shane, what tubeless valves did u use, brand and length?
I can't recall. Canyon AU sent them over when I told them I was going to convert their bike over to tubeless.
No worries, thanks for getting back to me anyway, think I’ll go for the 44mm Muck-off valves. 💪
Worked for me, thanks ✌
No idea where / when I would use it as never ridden on gravel but I want that bike.
Shoulda weighed the wheels before and after the conversion. I primarily use road tubeless for the weight savings. I use a spray bottle with soapy water to help seat the tire
Why the soapy water? Wide tyres like these slip on quite easily. I actually made my own grail tires tubeless last week. I did need a tubeless booster for one of the tires, but soapy water is to check for leaks. Getting the beads to seat is easy with supple tires like these :)
Shane, what no puncture test?
shhwoll-bay
ahhhhhhhhhhh nice.
Once you go gravel you never go back!!
Does tubeless valves are included with grail ?
Those trails!!!
I run 28mm at 115 psi on my single gear, so no need for 'less at the mo. What are the profound differences, you didn't mention them in your vid.
115psi with 28mm!? Crikey! Profound differences? Of tubeless? I'm still searching for them.
@@gplama Me tubsie boy, so I'm immured in steel. Which I love so all is good. I had one paranoid test ride on a CF, nice ride and it didn't crack.Phew! 75 kg is in the godilocks zone. Lucky chap, lay off the kebabs.
I'm having small issues with the front end coming loose after long off road rides. Any experiences with this Shane?
I'm riding the 2020 CF SL Di2
All ok so far. I’ll keep an eye one it after more kms.
I've used tyre levers on every tubeless mounting I've done both old and new tyres and I havent had any issues seating them. I don't understand why people keep insisting that you can't user levers. Also Doc Blue = Stans sealant.
I can't get them off with my fingers. *shrug*. Doc Blue = Stans.. I spotted this last night looking into other sealants. I never knew they were one and the same. Any tips for the best goop to use?
@@gplama I use the stans race sealant. Seems to work good!
whats the aliante like on the old gravel bike? currently I run my prologo zero cpc saddle which can be a bit firm.
It's a bit round... the Pro Stealth, Cadex Boost, and Power saddles I've been using are a lot flatter which my sit parts has agreed with. More kms required to get a better feel - so to speak.
@@gplama yeah i guess the aliante is one of those saddles that when you get it setup right its like an armchair but it takes time to get there.
That rear cassette reminds me of those insanly huge spinning rims on rap cars...
Let's get real, 2x in the front wasn't for nothing.
Just a quick question what size are those G ones
I think they were 700x40. Maybe 38.
Ok now another set of wheels and TL tires. Swap the tires so we see your luck v2.0 with prev sealed tires and/or wheels. -U10
Does anyone know the type of tubes that you should get for these, in the case of a puncture on the road? Are the Schwalbe SV17 compatible?
You cant always blame tubeless, if something isnt working its more the rim / tire combo, I put some pirelli cinturato 28mm tubeless tires on my 17mm int. giant wheels and could basically pop onto the bead with a hand pump and at 0 psi was hard to pop off the bead, well I swapped to some roval 21mm int. wheels with same tires but new and I literally needed 500psi nitrogen and no core in my tubeless valve to pop onto the bead, no bike shop in Australia would be able to get it on :) Also its dangerous at about 20psi the tire just pops off the bead, 4000km no punctures and it works just fine but its a terrible setup, it would be interesting to see if a inner tube would pop it onto the bead.
Muc-Off sealent is the best!
Is is BRIGHT PINK!? That'd be one hell of a mess if it is. I want it! :)
@@gplama Yes it is the pink one!
I have used several sealants and I think this is the best! I see it quite Often after riding that I had a 'flat' and the sealant sealed the hole even without I noticed. I only had one real flat but that was a slice of more than 1cm, so impossible to seal! I like it a lot!
Weight 150lbs,
650b 42mm tire I run at 26psi front and 28 psi rear. But my gravel is much bumpier than your.
700c 40mm have even more volume so you might be able to run similar pressure, i guess.
Hi - need some help to select the right gravel tire. I currently have the Bontrager GR2 Team Issue Gravel Tire (700c 40mm) - but get flats all the time (even when i ride on the normal street - 1 week riding - flat - 4 flats on the back tire, 1 flat on the front tire in the last 4 weeks). Which one has the best quality and prevents flats Vittoria, Panracer GravelKing SK +, Sepialized Pathfinder Pro, WTB, or Schwalbe G1? My terrain: Road and also some Offroad (forrest with gravel and fine sand). I would say 60% road, 40% offroad...
I’ve been using the Zipp G40 XPLR with good results. I’ll be trying the Panaracer GK soon.
@@gplama are you trying to get sk plus version? Plus is more pucture resistant...
@@Gerald-iz7mv Whatever I can find in 38-40mm that's hookless compatible. There's a shortage on a lot of things at the moment, tyres being one of them.
@@gplama whats hookless compatible?
@@Gerald-iz7mv It's a new tubeless rim standard.
Do I understand it correctly - no tape at all?
It had tape on the rim already.
love tubeless
I have the same tires and the same wheels also brand new I can’t get them to seat to save my life. Tried bunches of soap as well as bringing a compressor in to the process and they still won’t seat. I have no issues with road tires but for some reason I can’t get these to seat for anything.
Try new rim tape... or double up with an extra layer.
Shane Miller - GPLama I would be pretty bummed if that turned out to be the fix since they are brand new from canyon literally have never been ridden. I’ll give it a go though but the tape does look pretty spot on.
@@overthebarscycling2463 Are you removing the valve core to get a big BLAST of air into them to seat them?
Shane Miller - GPLama yep no valve core and using a compressor. I can road tires to seat in about 20 seconds with no problem but for some reason this set up has been giving me fits.
So I don’t know why or how but after swapping the tires and valve stems and giving it a couple days while I was tied up at work they seated within seconds while using my compressor. 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️ I have no clue what the deal was but I didn’t use any soap or other tricks I just blasted them with no core and they popped right in. Got the new Stages GRX PM installed and went for my first ride on the new grail yesterday.