Thank you so much for posting this. As a relative newcomer back to modelling after a 27 year Army career, I'd heard much about the supernatural powers of Klear in relation to modelling. In my old job, I and my pals used 'Klear to bring a shine to the toecaps of our boots which promptly took on a distinctly blue hue when it rained, earning us all 'jankers'. I've never used Klear for modelling but got a bottle of Pledge probably about the same time you were making this video - which I've just noticed was published on the 29th anniversary of me joining up! I hear plenty of grumbles about how great 'the old stuff is in comparison but having not had the chance to compare it, I can only say I have been completely satisfied with the behaviour of Pledge for 'sealing' a model before and after transfer application prior to applying the matt varnish and for bringing a sparkle to transparencies. At the end of each build, I ask myself, "does it look alright and did I enjoy building it?" If the answer to both is YES, then it is a success, whether I used Klear, Pledge or neither. I really can't be doing with all the unnecessary science and complication that some people feel obliged to throw at what is just a bloody hobby, so it's refreshing to hear you speak so directly and frankly about what is just, as you so rightly say, a thin, clear varnish.
A useful video. I'm a born again modeller, coming back to the hobby after a 25+ year break & so much has changed - the internet for starters, plus I can afford better kit than when I was a teenager! I've used Tamiya Clear up to now, but recently re-discovered a 500ml bottle of Klear in the cupboard under the kitchen sink, bonus, no need to buy anymore! Only tried it on a 1/72nd Sea Harrier so far, results not great BUT cr@ppy Humbrol enamel & clearcote had screwed that kit up anyway, & it helped give a bit more shine. I will use it again in place of Tamiya for pre decaling etc. I have another Sea harrier to build & paint (in fact several) so hopefully I will get the knack of using it down properly. I have to admit to being possessed by the hype of Klear & from your video I am glad to have recovered my old bottle, bought many years ago for the sole purpose of shining a laminate floor.
So glad you made this video. It's disgusting how people are taking advantage and trying to sell the old stuff for insane prices. I have some of the old stuff, but I tried out. The new formula and it works perfect. The fact the new Klear is milky actually helps as you can see where you've sprayed it on the model. Great video mate!.
Thanks, like you I have an almost full bottle of the old but bought the new because all the 'advice' I read was from 'a friend of a friend, a friends uncles goldfish's trainee vet or my mate fred who's been modelling since the dawn of man and strangely isn't on any of these forums to speak for himself' etc Best thing? Try and see and lo and behold it behaves exactly the same, I'm still using the new bottle before I go back to using the old
You can also use food coloring added like red and yellow to tint car model break light's and yellow fog lights. It dries like any acrylic paint and you can spray clear enamel over it for a super gloss shine.
@Bob Cummings do you mean as a polish coating on a bicycle frame? Bear in mind, it's a thin acrylic varnish, so you could coat anything with it you want shiny, as to how well it would hold up in outdoor weather I have no idea.
Thanks for this down to earth and witty video I did not know about kear all I knew was we put it on our boots when I was in the cadets as a kid you have definitely close the case. Thank you.
as spmeone who has read all about the wonderous and magical properties of klear, thanks for explaining. i would never have paid the extortionate interbay prices, but knowing that the new wax (that word has put me off) is as good has helped (I have wood floors too, so not a wasted purchase)
Just used the new formula for the first time. I diluted it down a bit with Vallejo airbrush thinners and it went on well, maybe more satin than hi gloss, but the vallejo air basecoats had dried extremely matt. It has done the job & was considerably cheaper than an acrlic gloss varnish from a hobby store. Thanks for the video.
You can also use a 6% ammonia solution to clean it off but if you've painted with acrylic paints underneath the ammonia will remove that too if you get too vigorous in your application.
Well, there was a lot of rumours in the beginning, that the new stuff was useless.. Glad to find out it is not!! I use it mainly for decalling (too strong neat so I dilute it) and as a canopy glue and 'clarifier'.. whatever way you spell it.. hardly ever as a varnish anymore, though! Used for the right things it is a good liquid to use.. :)
Klear is a very good paint thinner for water based acrylics, particularly those that are not normally thought of as "airbrush" paints like Vallejo Model Color or Golden Fluid Acyrlics. The trick with these is not to break down the molecular bond in the polymer agent which water or any solvent will easily do. I use it about 50/50 with Vallejo MC thinner or it's very close relative Golden/Liquitex "Airbrush Medium." Klear is actually a little thicker - almost ideal for all but the thinnest nozzles. It also lessens the waxy look of the paints in questions - which you may or may not want depending upon effect. I also think it makes these paints harder - it's easier to use than GAC 2000. So, not needed for most paints (probably would be bad with the lacquer/acrylics like Tamiya or Gunze) or Vallejo Model Air. But dandy for the others. In a simple way think of all stuff like clear or acrylic varnishes as a kind of liquid plastic. Not quite right, but close.
Yes your correct. I have jumped on the general hobby paint wagon due to the truck loads of money you can save. Here in Canada I can get an 8 ounce bottle of general purpose hobby paint for as little as $1, try to top that with model paint prices. As you mentioned the difficulty is that thinning with water will spread the acrylic molecules farther apart and reduce the bonding ability of the paint but using a clear acrylic such as future Klear, mop and shine or other massively expensive airbrush acrylic mediums will help the acrylic paint bond to the plastic much better. I learned of these hobby paints and their use for modeling from Chris Chapman, Classicplastic 101 and others on TH-cam. You should take a look at the cars Chris Chapman puts out using cheap hobby acrylics, Mop and Shine, and auto wax.
Like I wrote, I use alcohol to thin my acrylic paint. I use Klear to give the entire model a thin layer of smooth, shiny gloss clear. Decals will adhere much better. Then - if needed - some light weathering and post shading. Last, when the paint is totally dry, I spray paint the model in a matt or semi gloss finish. Klear is too thick to thin my paint. Use Zippo or Ronsonol lighter liquid to thin enamel paints. Gives a better result than most factory thinners ! ;-)
Thanks for putting this together old chap. I have been searching for a good video explaining about Klear and the differences. Just ordered a bottle of the new formula for £3.50 :) Thanks again.
Well done. Very informative. Got bottle of the new stuff last month and it seems to work fine for what is essentially a low cost acrylic gloss varnish.
Well, as far as I'm concerned the old formula really IS some kind of wonder fluid passed from Mount Olympus... but it is good to know the new one works just as well!! Not that I need any, as I have enough Klear to last me this lifetime and next.. and possibly the one after that! I stocked up when I heard nthey were taking it out of production, as at the time it was quite uncertain as how the replacement would work! :) Great video though, informative and to the point.. :)
You're right about new/old Klear. Same. In some cases, however, I've found Klear to be an excellent addition to a thinner brew. If you're using a thick water based paint like Vallejo Model Color or Golden Fluids, you've got to thin it. The simple polymer solution that suspends the pigment in such paints will break down if thinned with too much water, or anything else you want to think of. That's why Golden and Liquitex sell Airbrush Medium (white, milky - sound familiar?): Vallejo has "Thinner Medium" for MC - white and milky. This stuff dilutes the polymer without busting up the chemical bonding of the pigment. I add about 20% Klear because it does the same thing as airbrush medium, but it also adds a toughness to the finish and - if you want - will obviously give the paint a more glossy affect. I don't like using any of the lacquers, even Tamiya if I can avoid it, so making Vallejo and Golden paints working nicely through and airbrush is good for me. As for using Klear as the only thinner, I'm not sure how well that would go, although I might try it on one of my medical experiments for the fun of it. Naturally Klear or any of the acrylic thinners would be poison for Tamiya or Gunze paints - they're solvent based and require brand specific lacquer thinner.
I have a couple of vallejo model colour paints I'll try that with as they don't spray well when thinned with water for me. The only real problem is the glossy effect that klear would give so I'll need to experiment and see how obvious an effect it is
Model Color can be sprayed very nicely. But I'm advocating using Klear/Pledge alone. The major component in my brew is something that resembles Vallejo Thinning Medium. (Different from their airbrush thinner - that's really made for Model Air, although I put some of it into a MC brew). The closest thing to Vallejo Thinning Medium is "Airbrush Medium" made by Liquitex or Golden. It's very thin and milky in color. (The newest type of Pledge is too.) How much thinner you use depends on your style of painting and nozzle diameter. I prefer low PSI run through a .20 tip on a Harder Steenbeck Evolution. So I cut Model Color at least 50% and spray about 15 PSI. That would be my suggestion, but you could try straight Pledge. It would be gloss okay, but most models can hit with some kind of satin or matte varnish at the end anyway. BTW: you can use a little bit of water (I put stuff called Flow Aid into it - slows drying time a bit) but no more than about 10%. A simple aid for any airbrushing where tip clog could be a problem should always be used. If possible take off the tip protector of your airbrush - that should leave the needle well exposed. While airbrushing have a paintbrush handy - or even just a paper towel - and wipe off the tip with water, windex or airbrush cleaner when you see some paint build-up and maybe dab it lightly with a paper towel.
Thankyou for those tips, I typically use a Iwata CR with a 0.5mm needle / nozzle which is fine enough for most things I do but I have my old cheap 0.3mm needle / nozzle airbrush too. I'll have an experiment with straight Klear and see how that goes, I don't have many MC paints as I bought a couple to try and decided to not get more when I had bad results spraying after thinning with even a little water. If this works well I'll consider getting more though. I did get a couple extra to try Dr Fausts excellent skin painting (brush) tutorial too so I can try a small selection
experiment on something. The one problem I could see with Klear being the only thinner is that the drying time between Klear and Vallejo may be different. If so you could get some cracking. I use a pretty small amount of it and only to give the surface a little hardness. Might work great. Try it on an old kid or styrene sheet. Let me know what happens.
I thank you for your comments, however i used to use the old KLEAR to put a beautiful Glossy top coat on my Slate Tiles in the kitchen. It looked simply stunning..! but i have just tried to achieve the same finish with the new stuff and it is simply NOT the same by any standards…! unless I'm doing something drastically wrong (which i doubt i am!)
Glad it helped. Just clean as per water based acrylic. Flush through immediately with water then clean with IPA as per this video. th-cam.com/video/tcSBK0l5Lbw/w-d-xo.html
@@spidiq8 Thank you, that's the reply I was hoping for. I keep reading you have to use Ammonia which I really don't fancy putting through my nice shiny new Revolution CR.
@@hppbrian Not at all, that's what you'd use for stripping cured stuff off your floor but not necessary for cleaning the airbrush. Ammonia isn't kind to brass or some plating either.
It actually works REALLY well to thin a paint to turn it into a wash. So that claim is justified. In many ways, in combination with an ink you can use it to make something like the ArmyPainter quick wash, just without having the fumes and the ability to mix your own tones. Tested it first hand. Works really well.
Happy to help, It just irks me that some people still perpetuate this myth that the old stuff is somehow magical in it's abilities and worth 5 times the price of the new. It'd be cheaper to buy something like Xtracrylics clear acrylic which is excellent BTW than the old formula.
As said, i'd be interested to see, how many coats do you typically apply, (i'm assuming like most people you ue it for pre wash and decal only? or do you use it for top coat also? Last time I used it on an aircraft build was a pair of WHIF Sptifire and BF109 in captured colours, I don't recall a colour shift in either but as said i generally only apply 2 coats prior to decals. I will happily try this as an when I have the time to, the milky version in my video is like skimmed milk colour wise...
Great for various craft applications but never - ever - use it on your floors. My bottle goes back to the original design bottle. It builds up on your floor and then cracks. It is then an absolute nightmare to get off. I have use it in crafting but it will never go near my floor again.
It should be fine on vacform stuff, it's no different to any acrylic paint you'd use for your modelling so won't have any adverse effects on any plastic types i'm aware of. I imagine vacform canopies would be thinner and clearer than injection moulded anyway so other than the shine you may not notice a huge difference, the biggest change with an injection moulded canopy is that it makes it appear thinner and clearer.
Best thing for good adhesion with decals, (and they all differ in quality), is to affix them to a gloss surface and i've yet to find anything better than Microsol for setting them and getting them to mould into panel lines etc. Paint your model, gloss varnish it, (either with klear or your chosen gloss varnish), set the decals and once dry, weather then topcoat with Matt or Satin varnish as appropriate
We have similar problems here in Australia. We had a product called Pledge One Go which was discontinued, then relabelled and released under a different name. In fact, we have several different brands and types of floor polish from multiple manufacturers (SC Johnson and Selleys come straight to mind) that do the exact same stuff as Future.
I mix some Pledge with some alcohol, then spray paint a few coats until I get an even shine. Then decaling (and sometimes a light wash). After decaling I add some matt cote to the mix, because those 109's were not very shiny. Once finished the once blue 109 has 5, 6 or 7 layers, total. Nice overall semi gloss finish. But the airplane is now greenish.....yuk....Instead, I now use ModelMaster Semi Gloss coat. Much better results. I shall try Xtracrylics, too, soon.
Which is absolutely fine, it simply annoys me that some modellers openly boast on forums about the price they've gotten for their most recent bottle sold from the stockpile, knowing very well that it's another modeller buying the stuff, probably someone new to the hobby who would benefit more from using that £16+ to buy a couple kits and paint. I disagree completely on how wonderful the stuff is though, does it's job but no better than an acrylic varnish from any of the mainstream manufacturers.
I really wanted to believe this guy, but the new stuff is NOT the same. It's watery, not self-levelling and dries patchy (I had to redo a canopy as it dried with drips in it). It can also be scummy on decals. Most modellers would agree, and we're not daft people. The new product by Humbrol called simply 'Clear' however, is very good and reminds me of how good the old stuff used to be.
The comments regarding using Klear as a paint thinner is for acrylic paints(Games Workshop, Vallejo, Reaper, that sort) for creating washes/glazes(or filters). Which for their purpose, can be substituted using acrylic matt medium(which has the added benefit of not turning their work glossy, which for their purposes, is not an added benefit). Your point about why Klear was so nice does stand though. Namely you get a lot of it for cheap(actually, the 2.69 for 500ml is worst value than the 3.50 for 750ml).
I can neither confirm nor deny this as I no longer use it with the exception of a quick pre coat for decals and clear parts, (canopies etc). The main point I was making was that old formula IS fine, it is ALSO too expensive for a cheap acrylic varnish, Xtracrylix is almost as cheap and is infinitely better and dry enough to decal and wash onto in 15 minutes flat without the added problems of being a dust magnet.
Thanks for the video.All is now CLEAR! Apologies for that. I don't use it for modelling but it's great for looking the car mats for the wife's car look like new. I don't know what happened top the old bottle but at least I now know what to look for. Cheers.
My personal experience with the milky version is that is dries up yellowish !! My beautifully painted Messerschmitts now have a greenish underside instead of a blue one... I'll NEVER use that milky version again. What's left in the bottle is used for DARK colors only! The water clear version is the way to go, for me !! Yes, it cost me a fortune, but at least my models keep their original colors, before and after Klearing it !!
Ahhh, right, I see what you mean. Those instructions are for mopping floors only to give them a coating which gives them a sheen, it's not a concentrate as such and for modelling you either brush it or airbrush it neat decanted from the bottle, it's very thin as you'll see, brushing works great as it self levels being so runny, though I airbrush a lot, I always brush coat Klear. Airbrushing works but it floods easily. Hope this helps. Maybe I could do a video showing coating for new users?
Absolutely, theres nothing 'wrong' with it, it's just simply not worth £20+ I can understand peoples wariness with the new given it's opaque-ness, I decided to buy and try due to lack of information as mentioned and 'sacrified' a cheap old airfix BF109E in the interests of science, (that model is sitting pretty in RAF colours in my modelling room, part of a WHIF along with a Luftwaffe Spitfire) Once tried I couldn't believe the rumours were flying still even when I wrote my findings so made this
"I can neither confirm nor deny this as I no longer use it with the exception of a quick pre coat for decals and clear parts, (canopies etc). The main point I was making was that old formula IS fine, it is ALSO too expensive for a cheap acrylic varnish" Do I detect a bit of backtracking here? I had the same concerns that telescopereplicator alluded to- that it may yellow over time, as a lot of varnishes do (although this is less of a problem with acrylic-based varnishes). The old stuff has been used for years, so it's, in that sense, got a proven track record. I have no horse in this race- I've always stuck to proprietary modelling varnishes as I really don't use that much.
None whatsoever, just an honest answer, since using xtracrylics which is almost as cheap and better all round i I haven't used Klear as a top coat for a long time. I can confirm,that clear plastic parts i've coated with it remain clear and have been exposed to the air for a long time and as and when I next build a model I couldn't care less about i'll try it and see how it fares.
I rarely use mine now, only when pre decal coating and only then when i can't be bothered to mix up a cup of Xtracrylics gloss to spray and can wait 24 hours to decal after applying the Klear coats. The Xtracrylics is as cheap as ebay old formula Klear, sprays really well and you can attack it with decals, sols & oil washes precisely 15 minutes after spraying, brilliant stuff. New formula Klear is still a bargain and stands for what the old stuff was, (cheap), i'm just arming people with facts.
Hi thanks for clearing my mind on this once and for all. Unfortunately i just got in from getting some. Don't want to use it now. Cost nearly £5 down south.
I have never used the old formula , but Ive been using the new Pledge stuff on all my lorry models for a while now , like you said its not a miracle liquid but it does the job cheaply and makes my model smell like a floral bouquet !!
spidiq8 Thank you for putting this up. I've just gotten into model making a couple of months ago. I've heard so much hype about this product. I figured I had to try it. I couldn't find anywhere here in my local stores. I live in the U.S.. I ended up getting it on Amazon. For about $12.00. It does exactly what you say it does. One thing you did forget to mention. It does do a fairly nice job on hardwood floors. Lol.
Most likely you're flooding the model, it brushes better than it sprays, being so thin it floods very easily then pools, you also need about 3 coats to get a decent gloss surface to decal onto, another reason i use Xtracrylix varnish now. It dissolves in itself however so don't despair, get a wide brush and give it a good slap of Klear, give it a minute or two then soak up the excess by blotting it with a paper towel then start again, one coat with a brush, leave covered for 12 hour then recoat.
I ordered the new product you have there from Amazon but what came was in a different bottle (someone posted a link to it further down the comments). It was blue and white and called Pledge multi surface wax. It certainly looks the same, milky white. When I dipped my clear parts in it it basically ruined them. Have they actually changed the product? It dried quickly and was yellowish, uneven and not shiny in the least ?? Help
+inky productions I've not seen this particular one and, yes, it's possible they've changed the formula again which wouldn't surprise me because a lot of people who do use it for it's intended purpose of making a floor polished and shiny have complained the revised one didn't work like the old one on floors despite it working the same on model kits. You should be able to strip your clear parts using a dilution of ammonia or soaking in isopropyl alcohol to recover it though. Can you link to a pic of the bottle you received so I can take a look please?
What exactly would be the top shelf product made for modeling product that would do the job this floor polish is being used for? Just curious, it seems that I could avoid getting caught up in the old formula/new formula argument if I just bought the purpose made product.
I use to use klear back in my army days to give my parade boots a shine'when on ceremonial duties down London,turns green apparently once it rains'although i had no first hand experience of this.
Great video, puts things in perspective. Just one question... I need a clear gloss coat that won't "attack" soft vinyl/plastic figures. My understanding is that this product is appropriate for vinyl floors? so am I right in assuming that it would be OK for soft vinyl figures?
No problem, take care if spraying through an airbrush though, it's very thin and floods easily, I find it brushes much better but see how it goes for your chosen method
Ok! I am especially looking forward to see it perform it`s "magic" on canopies. Do you know if vacu-form canopies are meanth to be dipped in this stuff, or only the injection moulded types? I like the fact that it evens out so neatly evenif using only a regular brush. That Klear bottle with the old "clear" formula seems a tad opaque. Anyway thanks for the link in the description. Had to bookmark that link :)
If you already have it theres no reason to not try it. If it doesn't suit it's good for laminate or hardwood floors too, :) The main point of the video is, that it's good for what it is, a cheap acrylic varnish, but thats all it is, old or new so don't be fooled otherwise. if nothing else its great for transparent parts, windows and aircraft canopies etc, just dip and sit on a piece of kitchen towel and leave to dry.
I'm back to the hobby after an absence of over 40 years. Looking at forums etc I could not for the life of me work out what it was all about.What has wax floor polish got to do with modelling, & where would you use it. 15 minutes of my life usefully spent (just for a change) Entertaining, & *Very Informative* Many thanks.
Thanks for that mate.. I "built" my 1st kit back when I was around six, in 1959. Back then you built what your local shop sold. I was lucky, In Edinburgh, my nearest model shop was run by a guy called Frank Royle. Called "The Train shop". He also had lots of Airfix kits though. My first Airfix Kit: "Delta Dart" IIRC came in the famous Plastic Bag, & cost me 1 shilling & Sixpence. (7.5 new PENCE) Not realising that all the instructions were in the Paper Header Picture thing. When I got it home, I just ripped that off, grabbed the "Glue" that luckily Frank had advised we would need. & got stuck in! Now, even as a 6 year old, it wasn't hard to see which bits needed to be glued to which other bits. (The concept of paint NEVER entered my head. The bit that flummoxed me was the "Transfers". The only thing I could think of was to cut round them on the sheet, stick a blob of "glue" on the back, & stick them to the wings. To my young eyes it looked fantastic. Assorted plastic bits were now an "Airplane", made by ME! The sense of Achievement was immense. Luckily my parents weren't above a bit of patronising, & told me it looked great... as good as the "Real One". I'd forgotten that day, until I viewed the video. Now we have the means to perfect sticking "Transfers" onto wings in a way that realistically re-creates the actual Aircraft. I started off thanking you for the info. Now I have all the kit I need. Airbrushe(s), Compressor, Decal softeners, etc. Nothing wrong with that at all. But, isn't it interesting that the ONLY part of my 6YO build that WASN'T instinctive was the "Transfers". Even doing it "properly", (I sussed it eventually) it was just: Cut round, (DON'T USE GLUE!!!!!). Dip in water, slide off when ready. Position, "Good Luck" How times Change. Cheers
That was really great to read, thankyou, it made me smile and just lately i've had little to smile about. Your parents did exactly the right thing and they, technically, weren't wrong, you did the absolute best you could with what you had and no instructions. My first kit was a 72nd scale Airfix Lancaster built with my Dad, my first kit I tackled solo was an Airfix Hurricane, to this day my favourite Allied single prop fighter. I missed the pounds shillings and pence (though not by much) and I remember my first 72nd scale fighter plane kit, (from the local post office, what was a model shop?) cost me the bulk of my weekly pocket money but Dad was kind enough to stump up for the paints I needed. I had the bonus of knowing about decal application from the previous training session on the Lancaster but had no idea about silvering on Matte paint, but those planes hung proudly from my bedroom ceiling patrolling the skies there for years. I think it's great you've returned to the hobby and I wish you many years of pleasure building again.
Thanks for that. A 1950's/60's "Model Shop" was just that. Probably evolving post-war, they generally sold Tri-ang OO/HO gauge Trains, but would also sell (mainly) the early Airfix 1/32 & 1/72 kits. These were the "Bagged" Kits you now see on Auction sites. My first ever Purchase from E Bay (2008) was an original, still bagged, Airfix... "Joan of Arc" MY Original, bought on a Saturday afternoon in 1962. (From the aforementioned "Frank Royle's"). ("6" Scale Model") Cost me IIRC two shillings in REAL money. (Ten Pence Modern). I happily paid £29.00 (PLUS Postage) for one, back in '08. I'm not a collector, so I'll build her, (Airbrush her Armour, & do justice to the kit. It's easy to forget, when you post, that it is accessible world-wide. Too easy to get Parochial. But I found this on an Edinburgh local history website. I bet that everybody reading this had (maybe still does?) a shop like this. www.edinphoto.org.uk/1_edin/1_edinburgh_history_-_recollections_edinburgh_old_town_chambers_street.htm Scroll down a bit to get responses from folks who lived there. For the record, the one on "Chambers Street" was NOT "Frank Royle's". But from his closing down sale in the late 60's, I got a fantastic bargain on a "Frog E Type jag. I must have built several "Lancs" over the years. Favourite was the B17. Best "Bang-for-buck though, (Size-wise was the Douglas Skyraider. - Huge. 'Suppose I'd better subscribe.... Thanks for all the great Info.
Brian Wisniewski That's charming though reading the memories. My first real 'model' shop beyond the local post office was Beatties, so many saturday lunchtimes were spent with a friend in there looking at all the amazing unaffordable (for us schoolkids) Tamiya kits which at the time were a sheer wonder in detail and replication. I'm so glad to hear you plan to build your ebay purchase, I know it's none of my business generally but it's heartbreaking seeing some of those lovely old kits go for silly prices online knowing they'll get stuffed in a cupboard or on a shelf as an 'investment' because they're 'rare'. If you plan to upload your builds please let me know, I love watching other modellers for hints and tips and just seeing them enjoy the hobby. I'd certainly appreciate the subscription and hope to get back to doing more model kit related videos soon now the Virago bike project is moving back to its owner and I'm a bit more organized in my head. That AMT Capri is still waiting on the bench.
Well, I can assure you, the only difference you'd ever notice is the lack of perfume in the old formula, otherwise colour aside you'd never know it was different. Having a model display room smelling like a floral bouqet is an added bonus too.;)
It seems most prevalent in Morrisons supermarkets, alternatively, try hardware stores, they often stock it. Failing that you can order it online, Amazon etc, slightly pricier due to the shipping but still better than the 20+ quid for the 'miracle' old formula. That said I have an almost full bottle of the old, you can have that for 19.99+ P&P ;)
I live in Austria and have not been able to find Klear or Future. Would you/posters be possibly know if there is a local brand here or if I should just go to an art store and pick up clear acrylic varnish? Any help greatly appreciated.
@@iamaduckquack The UK one, no it's slightly different but it does behave the same as the old stuff. Some people have said it doesn't dry as clear when used as a pre decal or wash coat but I've not experienced that.
I'm not sure when it first appeared, I would guess just a few years after it first appeared for it's intended use which is as a floor shine. Someone at some point presumably noted it's similarity to clear acrylic varnish and just tried it, from then it clearly snowballed, at the time it was a ridiculously cheap varnish compared to the hobby shop alternatives.
Hi i have taken the plunge and bought a bottle but not used it as yet. Please could you tell me the best thing to use to clean this from an airbrush. I have some acrylic thinners will this be ok ? Cheers, Mark.
Ah yes - how interesting! I just wanted some for a floor, actually, & came across your most informative video! NOW I know what to look for - & an awful lot about its use in making models, should I ever venture down that path.
TR King Great stuff, glad to help though I know little about its use on a floor but if I've encouraged someone else to start building model kits that's a bonus. Thanks for watching.
Haha, thankyou, :) I'm glad you enjoyed it, I think I can be quite sarcastic with friends in day to day life but I try to avoid that in my videos, in this case however I couldn't help it a little because of some of the utter nonsense you read online and in forums about the old magical brew. Thanks for watching and happy modelling, I have a few other modelling related videos on here and a half built Tamiya Panigale that I might get around to doing more of and trying to complete soon, (I really should)
cheers buddy, you've just saved me about 18 quid. big thumbs up and thank you. I use glue n glaze for glueing canopies it also makes windows up to 6mm in diameter. only 5 quid from hobby shop.
Thanks for bothering to do a video about this. I have been into model making for the past forty years and never really thought much of this floor polish. I tried it once many years ago when it was called 'Future' and frankly did not like what it did - or rather was not really impressed. Funnily enough, an old friend told me he was getting results with this new Klear and I got me a bottle from ebay-UK for £7 plus p+p because it is not available in my country. It is still the same old Future just as you say and I would rather use other specialty gloss varnishes than this. If these become unavailable I might opt to use it but only as a last resort. I do believe that a lot of hype has been spread around by reviewers especially in UK about this product as it is less revered in other countries. It's ok for canopies although there are other equally effective alternatives
Glad you found it useful, it's one of those things that I believe has been blown out of all proportion though it does have it's uses, as said, it's key + point was always that it was cheap, much much cheaper than the then available tiny pots of clear Acryl. Once the prices went silly on ebay i realised it was newcomers who were effectively being conned into believing this was some wonder product.
Hi just an update managed to get some Klear but looking at it if I was to have betted money on this being suitable for clearing anything I think I would have lost the bet. I will be trying it out but I am still sceptical compared to using the mainstream acrylic. Water thin is not the word for this stuff.
CONT from prev...... simply because. On a military model your final coat will be satin or matte anyway, If I want to gloss I use enamels. I'd be interested to see if this is the case but until I am able to look at doing this perhaps you could set up a test yourself and video it, you'd be welcome to post the link and your findings here. Cost wise though, you'd be far better off with Xtracrylics, old Klear was only ever a cheap varnish, it's pointless when it costs the same as 'proper' stuff.
Having 150 Oz. of the stuff delivered from the US in two days time. I have to see for myself what the big fuzz is all about. Been reading about this floor wax since the dawn of time and felt inferior since it never was available in my country. I never got the impression that the "old" formula was better, but i have picked up some controversies regarding the different types of waxes available. Paid 34 dollars for the 6 pack on amazon. Any thoughts on when this stuff first appeared in modelling?
It's likely a different scenario in the US for the stuff, but the 'old formula sells for £20+ a bottle on ebay here, at current exchange thats $32.50 ish, for 500ml, people are just taking advantage of gullible newbies, the new stuff is £3.50 a bottle 750ml from walmart equivalents). You may have a point about the warm beer, LOL, sadly it does rain too much here. Thats the beauty of RE though, good old fashioned 'if it ain't broke' ideals, (though emissions regs have changed that)
I honestly can't see a problem, I've never had a coating of this do anything strange even after a year or more on the shelf. If it works for you and your paint jobs look OK and dry fine then go for it. It may even be worth making a little tutorial? Using it as a paint thinner is something i've never tried and I imagine it does that well with acrylics.
I bought some of the new stuff a while back to see how it would work for making puddles and stuff but have also been thinning my paints with a 50:50 mix with distilled water. I figured this stuff was just acrylic medium. Am I wrong? It thins my paints lovely, I've even made a wash with it. I'd rather know now though before I ruin more minis lol!
Yes yes yes yes yes yes its the same thing....but does it yellow like the floor wax I'm familiar with over the years? Me thinks the most important, main thing, what matters is, what ppl want to see, What I wana see anyway is what does it the reflection look like on clear plastic scale model windows?
Tried finding this in my local super market after someone recommended it to me. Couldn't find it, so I wen to lidl and got their W5 version instead. Will it work the same ? I've only recently got interested in trying oils, and need to gloss a fair kits for doing washes..
I'm unfamiliar with that, I wasn't aware lidl did one but if it looks the same the chances are the composition will be similar, try it on some scrap plastic and especially clear stuff first and see if it gives the shine and doesn't fog or damage the styrene. Let us know how it works too.
+spidiq8 All I had was a clear plastic lid from some food. Gave it a clean and dried it off. Here's the before shot; goo.gl/khG24Q I had to keep an eye on the daughter today, so only got to brush it on. It went on a little thick in parts, but I figured that was useful for testing. Here's the after shot; goo.gl/P221RU It's had quite a few hours to dry.. Whats your thoughts? I'm not overly sure.. seems to dry with the brush strokes- so no self-leveling, and if its on too thick it dries with that milky colour. I'd be worried if it was on too thick for a mini, it might do the same. Maybe I should just keep searching for the Future/Pledge stuff..
+ElCommi Hard to tell for sure with the pics but I'd say if it dries with the brushstrokes the chances are it's a lot thicker than klear/pledge, you might find it would work if you airbrush it in thin light coats though but I'd recommend you try to find the Johnson stuff and then compare side by side
funny how some people say its great for modeling but don't dare use it for its intended purpose, being putting it on the floor LOL i also wouldn't be surprised if some of the specific modelers stuff is made by them anyway and re bottled for a higher price
A thick coat (= several thin layers) on a piece of plastic, painted light blue, is to clearly see how much the new and old Klear really affect the original color. Still, a few thinly spray painted layers on my blue airplanes made them turn green. That is really the last thing you want when you've spent weeks building a proper model... You say there is NO difference whatsoever, but I totally disagree. However, I must say, the milky version I use is Pledge Floor Wax, it has a light wood color.
They have changed the packaging again. If you're in the UK the content is the same as the white bottle. The translucent version but the bottle and label are different, I believe the current incarnation is this. www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Klear-Multi-Surface-Wax/dp/B008HFVO32# If you're in the US it's clear like the old UK one and a different bottle.
Thank you for the video, it almost dispelled my doubts about the new Klear formula. It would have been a lot more helpful if you had put your money where your mouth is and brushed a little of each onto similar surfaces to demonstrate the similarity you were trying to talk us into accepting. I waited the whole 15 minutes for you to do this using those little sample jars and .... zilch!!!!!
Apologies Susan, I do however plan on doing a comparison between old UK klear, new klear and the US version, (which is clear like the old UK one). It's just currently buried under a mountain of projects which I'm trying to for in between work and suchlike.
I went to get some today 2-1-16 packaging has changed again but happy days it works a real treat paid a little over £3.00 750ml bottle from asda thanks again spidiq8.
I have a problem inasmuch I want to spray it on tissue paper to tighten it and use it as base as a primer for acrylic paint is this o.k . glad of any help thank you
Beryl Price Like you'd do with cellulose dope on balsa wood framed gliders? I'm uncertain if this will perform the same being an acrylic based varnish, sorry I can't help specifically but I'd be very grateful to know if you do try it please.
In uk its a white bottle with pledge and red bit is yellow just started modeling after a 5 year absence use it for pre decaling and seal my paint work on aircraft and military vehicle's can't believe mugs pay £25 for a bottle of the old stuff.
Yeah that label did cause some initial concern, but i do believe it to be "the shit" :) It does have a blue sport type nozzle/pop top. I did try to google it and have a look at Swannys, but to no avail. If you send me a PM with your e-mail adress, i can send you a picture of the bottles. Also the picture of the product i bought off amazon was of the more well known bottles. So that is what leads me to believe it to be what i am after. It is really sticky to the touch but the smell is sweet!
I read somewhere that they added the "tint" to the new stuff because children were drinking the old one...?? Good to know the new one is fine. I've been using Future for years, have an original bottle that's almost empty..lol.
grt video.i use it all the time.just brush a few coats over yr painted model then apply decals and then re coat again to seal the decals.brilliant stuff and smells grt.
Hmm, not sure on the label, I believe the stuff in the US is labelled differently though, have a google of swannys models page on future / Klear, this shows most of the variants. (link in my description on the video). The US pledge I think has a sport type pop top? ours has an unscrew lid.
Dear Dr Spidiq8, Firstly i would like to take issue on your review of the properties of this most Excellent rather magical fluid. 1-i have no hair on my head. 2- I have grandchildren. Let me say now, it does not cure baldness,nor does it remove the gran kids from the man shed,despite what the weather conditions are, or replenish,the money there is in the sweet fund jar that is used in extreme circumstances[most of the time],thank god i have a fridge,where i store my mythical potions,beer, and other substances. I too would like say, well done on this most informative production,and in future if you decide to tackle any more subjects regarding the modelling hobby,for example, the cost of upgrade parts, photo etch,some of the rubbish that is being released, and also the general cost of the hobby to us mere mortals please let me know. I do realise this is an old moving picture but i shall endevor to watch your other fare that you are offering on your blogg. please accept the spirit of this comment in the way it was written. Best regards,a ripped off pissed off modeller. regards allan.
I know that feeling well and thankyou for your comments, children in general seem to be completely unaware that man caves and man sheds are sacred ground and will try everything to gain entry, (and when succesful, i'm sure they're quite dissapointed most of the time, have you tried bear traps? apparently slightly illegal and perhaps a bit extreme but they're unlikely to try again). The price of aftermarket parts is horrendous and tempted as I have been with add on parts for some tamiya models I cannot force myself to do it and so far always end up building out of the box with the odd addition of specially hand crafted leftover sprue for some special accessories. I have yet to use photo etch and being the sort of modeller who baulks at the price of aftermarket decals it may be a while. Please do check my other modelling videos and If you make any yourself do let me know and i'll be sure to take a look. (don't film any involving the bear traps and kids, even a disclaimer won't help you there)
Thank you so much for posting this. As a relative newcomer back to modelling after a 27 year Army career, I'd heard much about the supernatural powers of Klear in relation to modelling. In my old job, I and my pals used 'Klear to bring a shine to the toecaps of our boots which promptly took on a distinctly blue hue when it rained, earning us all 'jankers'. I've never used Klear for modelling but got a bottle of Pledge probably about the same time you were making this video - which I've just noticed was published on the 29th anniversary of me joining up! I hear plenty of grumbles about how great 'the old stuff is in comparison but having not had the chance to compare it, I can only say I have been completely satisfied with the behaviour of Pledge for 'sealing' a model before and after transfer application prior to applying the matt varnish and for bringing a sparkle to transparencies. At the end of each build, I ask myself, "does it look alright and did I enjoy building it?" If the answer to both is YES, then it is a success, whether I used Klear, Pledge or neither. I really can't be doing with all the unnecessary science and complication that some people feel obliged to throw at what is just a bloody hobby, so it's refreshing to hear you speak so directly and frankly about what is just, as you so rightly say, a thin, clear varnish.
+Dave Mitchell You're very welcome, glad to clear up some potential confusion
Hi dave, you must be ex guardsman, coz thats what i did with me boots to.
Great video, been using old and new Klear for years on 1/35 tanks. Flows brilliantly through the airbrush straight out of the bottle.
A useful video. I'm a born again modeller, coming back to the hobby after a 25+ year break & so much has changed - the internet for starters, plus I can afford better kit than when I was a teenager! I've used Tamiya Clear up to now, but recently re-discovered a 500ml bottle of Klear in the cupboard under the kitchen sink, bonus, no need to buy anymore! Only tried it on a 1/72nd Sea Harrier so far, results not great BUT cr@ppy Humbrol enamel & clearcote had screwed that kit up anyway, & it helped give a bit more shine. I will use it again in place of Tamiya for pre decaling etc. I have another Sea harrier to build & paint (in fact several) so hopefully I will get the knack of using it down properly. I have to admit to being possessed by the hype of Klear & from your video I am glad to have recovered my old bottle, bought many years ago for the sole purpose of shining a laminate floor.
So glad you made this video. It's disgusting how people are taking advantage and trying to sell the old stuff for insane prices. I have some of the old stuff, but I tried out. The new formula and it works perfect. The fact the new Klear is milky actually helps as you can see where you've sprayed it on the model. Great video mate!.
Thanks, like you I have an almost full bottle of the old but bought the new because all the 'advice' I read was from 'a friend of a friend, a friends uncles goldfish's trainee vet or my mate fred who's been modelling since the dawn of man and strangely isn't on any of these forums to speak for himself' etc
Best thing? Try and see and lo and behold it behaves exactly the same, I'm still using the new bottle before I go back to using the old
You can also use food coloring added like red and yellow to tint car model break light's and yellow fog lights. It dries like any acrylic paint and you can spray clear enamel over it for a super gloss shine.
@Bob Cummings
do you mean as a polish coating on a bicycle frame?
Bear in mind, it's a thin acrylic varnish, so you could coat anything with it you want shiny, as to how well it would hold up in outdoor weather I have no idea.
Thanks for this down to earth and witty video I did not know about kear all I knew was we put it on our boots when I was in the cadets as a kid you have definitely close the case. Thank you.
Glad you found it useful
as spmeone who has read all about the wonderous and magical properties of klear, thanks for explaining. i would never have paid the extortionate interbay prices, but knowing that the new wax (that word has put me off) is as good has helped (I have wood floors too, so not a wasted purchase)
+muttley4077Thankou, I hope you find it useful.
Bear in mind it's not wax at all, simply a very very thin acrylic gloss varnish coat
Just used the new formula for the first time. I diluted it down a bit with Vallejo airbrush thinners and it went on well, maybe more satin than hi gloss, but the vallejo air basecoats had dried extremely matt. It has done the job & was considerably cheaper than an acrlic gloss varnish from a hobby store. Thanks for the video.
You can also use a 6% ammonia solution to clean it off but if you've painted with acrylic paints underneath the ammonia will remove that too if you get too vigorous in your application.
you're welcome and glad to help even if it's not modelling related.
Apparently Squaddies used it to shine their boots too.
Well, there was a lot of rumours in the beginning, that the new stuff was useless.. Glad to find out it is not!! I use it mainly for decalling (too strong neat so I dilute it) and as a canopy glue and 'clarifier'.. whatever way you spell it.. hardly ever as a varnish anymore, though! Used for the right things it is a good liquid to use.. :)
Got it in ASDA yesterday, the hunt for a Marathon Bar goes on, Thanks to your Video you have put me on the right path....
Klear is a very good paint thinner for water based acrylics, particularly those that are not normally thought of as "airbrush" paints like Vallejo Model Color or Golden Fluid Acyrlics. The trick with these is not to break down the molecular bond in the polymer agent which water or any solvent will easily do. I use it about 50/50 with Vallejo MC thinner or it's very close relative Golden/Liquitex "Airbrush Medium." Klear is actually a little thicker - almost ideal for all but the thinnest nozzles. It also lessens the waxy look of the paints in questions - which you may or may not want depending upon effect. I also think it makes these paints harder - it's easier to use than GAC 2000. So, not needed for most paints (probably would be bad with the lacquer/acrylics like Tamiya or Gunze) or Vallejo Model Air. But dandy for the others. In a simple way think of all stuff like clear or acrylic varnishes as a kind of liquid plastic. Not quite right, but close.
Yes your correct. I have jumped on the general hobby paint wagon due to the truck loads of money you can save. Here in Canada I can get an 8 ounce bottle of general purpose hobby paint for as little as $1, try to top that with model paint prices. As you mentioned the difficulty is that thinning with water will spread the acrylic molecules farther apart and reduce the bonding ability of the paint but using a clear acrylic such as future Klear, mop and shine or other massively expensive airbrush acrylic mediums will help the acrylic paint bond to the plastic much better. I learned of these hobby paints and their use for modeling from Chris Chapman, Classicplastic 101 and others on TH-cam. You should take a look at the cars Chris Chapman puts out using cheap hobby acrylics, Mop and Shine, and auto wax.
Like I wrote, I use alcohol to thin my acrylic paint. I use Klear to give the entire model a thin layer of smooth, shiny gloss clear. Decals will adhere much better. Then - if needed - some light weathering and post shading. Last, when the paint is totally dry, I spray paint the model in a matt or semi gloss finish. Klear is too thick to thin my paint. Use Zippo or Ronsonol lighter liquid to thin enamel paints. Gives a better result than most factory thinners ! ;-)
Thanks for putting this together old chap. I have been searching for a good video explaining about Klear and the differences. Just ordered a bottle of the new formula for £3.50 :) Thanks again.
Kamm where did you get it for 3.50
Great video. There seems to be a lot of confusion over the new/old Klear, especially coming in as a beginner.
Well done. Very informative. Got bottle of the new stuff last month and it seems to work fine for what is essentially a low cost acrylic gloss varnish.
Well, as far as I'm concerned the old formula really IS some kind of wonder fluid passed from Mount Olympus... but it is good to know the new one works just as well!! Not that I need any, as I have enough Klear to last me this lifetime and next.. and possibly the one after that! I stocked up when I heard nthey were taking it out of production, as at the time it was quite uncertain as how the replacement would work! :) Great video though, informative and to the point.. :)
You're right about new/old Klear. Same. In some cases, however, I've found Klear to be an excellent addition to a thinner brew. If you're using a thick water based paint like Vallejo Model Color or Golden Fluids, you've got to thin it. The simple polymer solution that suspends the pigment in such paints will break down if thinned with too much water, or anything else you want to think of. That's why Golden and Liquitex sell Airbrush Medium (white, milky - sound familiar?): Vallejo has "Thinner Medium" for MC - white and milky. This stuff dilutes the polymer without busting up the chemical bonding of the pigment. I add about 20% Klear because it does the same thing as airbrush medium, but it also adds a toughness to the finish and - if you want - will obviously give the paint a more glossy affect. I don't like using any of the lacquers, even Tamiya if I can avoid it, so making Vallejo and Golden paints working nicely through and airbrush is good for me. As for using Klear as the only thinner, I'm not sure how well that would go, although I might try it on one of my medical experiments for the fun of it. Naturally Klear or any of the acrylic thinners would be poison for Tamiya or Gunze paints - they're solvent based and require brand specific lacquer thinner.
I have a couple of vallejo model colour paints I'll try that with as they don't spray well when thinned with water for me. The only real problem is the glossy effect that klear would give so I'll need to experiment and see how obvious an effect it is
Model Color can be sprayed very nicely. But I'm advocating using Klear/Pledge alone. The major component in my brew is something that resembles Vallejo Thinning Medium. (Different from their airbrush thinner - that's really made for Model Air, although I put some of it into a MC brew). The closest thing to Vallejo Thinning Medium is "Airbrush Medium" made by Liquitex or Golden. It's very thin and milky in color. (The newest type of Pledge is too.) How much thinner you use depends on your style of painting and nozzle diameter. I prefer low PSI run through a .20 tip on a Harder Steenbeck Evolution. So I cut Model Color at least 50% and spray about 15 PSI. That would be my suggestion, but you could try straight Pledge. It would be gloss okay, but most models can hit with some kind of satin or matte varnish at the end anyway. BTW: you can use a little bit of water (I put stuff called Flow Aid into it - slows drying time a bit) but no more than about 10%. A simple aid for any airbrushing where tip clog could be a problem should always be used. If possible take off the tip protector of your airbrush - that should leave the needle well exposed. While airbrushing have a paintbrush handy - or even just a paper towel - and wipe off the tip with water, windex or airbrush cleaner when you see some paint build-up and maybe dab it lightly with a paper towel.
Thankyou for those tips, I typically use a Iwata CR with a 0.5mm needle / nozzle which is fine enough for most things I do but I have my old cheap 0.3mm needle / nozzle airbrush too.
I'll have an experiment with straight Klear and see how that goes, I don't have many MC paints as I bought a couple to try and decided to not get more when I had bad results spraying after thinning with even a little water. If this works well I'll consider getting more though.
I did get a couple extra to try Dr Fausts excellent skin painting (brush) tutorial too so I can try a small selection
experiment on something. The one problem I could see with Klear being the only thinner is that the drying time between Klear and Vallejo may be different. If so you could get some cracking. I use a pretty small amount of it and only to give the surface a little hardness. Might work great. Try it on an old kid or styrene sheet. Let me know what happens.
I thank you for your comments, however i used to use the old KLEAR to put a beautiful Glossy top coat on my Slate Tiles in the kitchen. It looked simply stunning..! but i have just tried to achieve the same finish with the new stuff and it is simply NOT the same by any standards…! unless I'm doing something drastically wrong (which i doubt i am!)
Thanks for this, you've answered many questions for this newbie. Now I'd just like to know what to use to clean my airbrush afterwards.
Glad it helped. Just clean as per water based acrylic. Flush through immediately with water then clean with IPA as per this video.
th-cam.com/video/tcSBK0l5Lbw/w-d-xo.html
@@spidiq8 Thank you, that's the reply I was hoping for. I keep reading you have to use Ammonia which I really don't fancy putting through my nice shiny new Revolution CR.
@@hppbrian Not at all, that's what you'd use for stripping cured stuff off your floor but not necessary for cleaning the airbrush. Ammonia isn't kind to brass or some plating either.
It actually works REALLY well to thin a paint to turn it into a wash. So that claim is justified. In many ways, in combination with an ink you can use it to make something like the ArmyPainter quick wash, just without having the fumes and the ability to mix your own tones. Tested it first hand. Works really well.
Happy to help, It just irks me that some people still perpetuate this myth that the old stuff is somehow magical in it's abilities and worth 5 times the price of the new.
It'd be cheaper to buy something like Xtracrylics clear acrylic which is excellent BTW than the old formula.
As said, i'd be interested to see, how many coats do you typically apply, (i'm assuming like most people you ue it for pre wash and decal only? or do you use it for top coat also?
Last time I used it on an aircraft build was a pair of WHIF Sptifire and BF109 in captured colours, I don't recall a colour shift in either but as said i generally only apply 2 coats prior to decals.
I will happily try this as an when I have the time to, the milky version in my video is like skimmed milk colour wise...
Great for various craft applications but never - ever - use it on your floors. My bottle goes back to the original design bottle. It builds up on your floor and then cracks. It is then an absolute nightmare to get off. I have use it in crafting but it will never go near my floor again.
You have to airbrush it onto floors. Recommend 3mil needle with about 18 lbs pressure making light mist layers, about 3 or 4 coats should do it.
@@jgo1961 Hahahahahahah lolololol
Great video thx for sharing this info had no idea. I got a bottle of Pledge with Future shine as we call it in the states.
It should be fine on vacform stuff, it's no different to any acrylic paint you'd use for your modelling so won't have any adverse effects on any plastic types i'm aware of.
I imagine vacform canopies would be thinner and clearer than injection moulded anyway so other than the shine you may not notice a huge difference, the biggest change with an injection moulded canopy is that it makes it appear thinner and clearer.
Best thing for good adhesion with decals, (and they all differ in quality), is to affix them to a gloss surface and i've yet to find anything better than Microsol for setting them and getting them to mould into panel lines etc.
Paint your model, gloss varnish it, (either with klear or your chosen gloss varnish), set the decals and once dry, weather then topcoat with Matt or Satin varnish as appropriate
We have similar problems here in Australia. We had a product called Pledge One Go which was discontinued, then relabelled and released under a different name. In fact, we have several different brands and types of floor polish from multiple manufacturers (SC Johnson and Selleys come straight to mind) that do the exact same stuff as Future.
I mix some Pledge with some alcohol, then spray paint a few coats until I get an even shine. Then decaling (and sometimes a light wash). After decaling I add some matt cote to the mix, because those 109's were not very shiny. Once finished the once blue 109 has 5, 6 or 7 layers, total. Nice overall semi gloss finish. But the airplane is now greenish.....yuk....Instead, I now use ModelMaster Semi Gloss coat. Much better results. I shall try Xtracrylics, too, soon.
Which is absolutely fine, it simply annoys me that some modellers openly boast on forums about the price they've gotten for their most recent bottle sold from the stockpile, knowing very well that it's another modeller buying the stuff, probably someone new to the hobby who would benefit more from using that £16+ to buy a couple kits and paint.
I disagree completely on how wonderful the stuff is though, does it's job but no better than an acrylic varnish from any of the mainstream manufacturers.
I really wanted to believe this guy, but the new stuff is NOT the same. It's watery, not self-levelling and dries patchy (I had to redo a canopy as it dried with drips in it). It can also be scummy on decals. Most modellers would agree, and we're not daft people. The new product by Humbrol called simply 'Clear' however, is very good and reminds me of how good the old stuff used to be.
The comments regarding using Klear as a paint thinner is for acrylic paints(Games Workshop, Vallejo, Reaper, that sort) for creating washes/glazes(or filters). Which for their purpose, can be substituted using acrylic matt medium(which has the added benefit of not turning their work glossy, which for their purposes, is not an added benefit). Your point about why Klear was so nice does stand though. Namely you get a lot of it for cheap(actually, the 2.69 for 500ml is worst value than the 3.50 for 750ml).
I can neither confirm nor deny this as I no longer use it with the exception of a quick pre coat for decals and clear parts, (canopies etc).
The main point I was making was that old formula IS fine, it is ALSO too expensive for a cheap acrylic varnish, Xtracrylix is almost as cheap and is infinitely better and dry enough to decal and wash onto in 15 minutes flat without the added problems of being a dust magnet.
Thanks for the video.All is now CLEAR! Apologies for that. I don't use it for modelling but it's great for looking the car mats for the wife's car look like new. I don't know what happened top the old bottle but at least I now know what to look for. Cheers.
My personal experience with the milky version is that is dries up yellowish !! My beautifully painted Messerschmitts now have a greenish underside instead of a blue one...
I'll NEVER use that milky version again. What's left in the bottle is used for DARK colors only! The water clear version is the way to go, for me !! Yes, it cost me a fortune, but at least my models keep their original colors, before and after Klearing it !!
Ahhh, right, I see what you mean.
Those instructions are for mopping floors only to give them a coating which gives them a sheen, it's not a concentrate as such and for modelling you either brush it or airbrush it neat decanted from the bottle, it's very thin as you'll see, brushing works great as it self levels being so runny, though I airbrush a lot, I always brush coat Klear. Airbrushing works but it floods easily. Hope this helps. Maybe I could do a video showing coating for new users?
Absolutely, theres nothing 'wrong' with it, it's just simply not worth £20+
I can understand peoples wariness with the new given it's opaque-ness, I decided to buy and try due to lack of information as mentioned and 'sacrified' a cheap old airfix BF109E in the interests of science, (that model is sitting pretty in RAF colours in my modelling room, part of a WHIF along with a Luftwaffe Spitfire)
Once tried I couldn't believe the rumours were flying still even when I wrote my findings so made this
"I can neither confirm nor deny this as I no longer use it with the exception of a quick pre coat for decals and clear parts, (canopies etc). The main point I was making was that old formula IS fine, it is ALSO too expensive for a cheap acrylic varnish"
Do I detect a bit of backtracking here? I had the same concerns that telescopereplicator alluded to- that it may yellow over time, as a lot of varnishes do (although this is less of a problem with acrylic-based varnishes).
The old stuff has been used for years, so it's, in that sense, got a proven track record.
I have no horse in this race- I've always stuck to proprietary modelling varnishes as I really don't use that much.
None whatsoever, just an honest answer, since using xtracrylics which is almost as cheap and better all round i
I haven't used Klear as a top coat for a long time.
I can confirm,that clear plastic parts i've coated with it remain clear and have been exposed to the air for a long time and as and when I next build a model I couldn't care less about i'll try it and see how it fares.
I rarely use mine now, only when pre decal coating and only then when i can't be bothered to mix up a cup of Xtracrylics gloss to spray and can wait 24 hours to decal after applying the Klear coats.
The Xtracrylics is as cheap as ebay old formula Klear, sprays really well and you can attack it with decals, sols & oil washes precisely 15 minutes after spraying, brilliant stuff.
New formula Klear is still a bargain and stands for what the old stuff was, (cheap), i'm just arming people with facts.
Hi thanks for clearing my mind on this once and for all. Unfortunately i just got in from getting some. Don't want to use it now. Cost nearly £5 down south.
I have never used the old formula , but Ive been using the new Pledge stuff on all my lorry models for a while now , like you said its not a miracle liquid but it does the job cheaply and makes my model smell like a floral bouquet !!
spidiq8 Thank you for putting this up. I've just gotten into model making a couple of months ago. I've heard so much hype about this product. I figured I had to try it. I couldn't find anywhere here in my local stores. I live in the U.S.. I ended up getting it on Amazon. For about $12.00. It does exactly what you say it does. One thing you did forget to mention. It does do a fairly nice job on hardwood floors. Lol.
Oddly, that's the one thing I never tried it on, :)
Most likely you're flooding the model, it brushes better than it sprays, being so thin it floods very easily then pools, you also need about 3 coats to get a decent gloss surface to decal onto, another reason i use Xtracrylix varnish now.
It dissolves in itself however so don't despair, get a wide brush and give it a good slap of Klear, give it a minute or two then soak up the excess by blotting it with a paper towel then start again, one coat with a brush, leave covered for 12 hour then recoat.
What a great video, thank you so much. I have one question, do you need to dilute before using in an airbrush?
I ordered the new product you have there from Amazon but what came was in a different bottle (someone posted a link to it further down the comments). It was blue and white and called Pledge multi surface wax. It certainly looks the same, milky white. When I dipped my clear parts in it it basically ruined them. Have they actually changed the product? It dried quickly and was yellowish, uneven and not shiny in the least ?? Help
+inky productions I've not seen this particular one and, yes, it's possible they've changed the formula again which wouldn't surprise me because a lot of people who do use it for it's intended purpose of making a floor polished and shiny have complained the revised one didn't work like the old one on floors despite it working the same on model kits.
You should be able to strip your clear parts using a dilution of ammonia or soaking in isopropyl alcohol to recover it though.
Can you link to a pic of the bottle you received so I can take a look please?
What exactly would be the top shelf product made for modeling product that would do the job this floor polish is being used for? Just curious, it seems that I could avoid getting caught up in the old formula/new formula argument if I just bought the purpose made product.
FranktheDachshund Any acrylic gloss clearcoat, Xtracrylix make a great one as mentioned in this video but any from Humbrol, Testors, Tamiya, etc
I use to use klear back in my army days to give my parade boots a shine'when on ceremonial duties down London,turns green apparently once it rains'although i had no first hand experience of this.
Great video, puts things in perspective. Just one question... I need a clear gloss coat that won't "attack" soft vinyl/plastic figures. My understanding is that this product is appropriate for vinyl floors? so am I right in assuming that it would be OK for soft vinyl figures?
Although i've never used it on vinyl kits, (having not built any), I'm quite confident that it would present no problems whatsoever.
spidiq8 Thanks for getting back to me : )
No problem, take care if spraying through an airbrush though, it's very thin and floods easily, I find it brushes much better but see how it goes for your chosen method
spidiq8 Advice much appreciated.
have you done a tutorial on using C A for canopies ?? , this one was very useful thankyou
Ok! I am especially looking forward to see it perform it`s "magic" on canopies. Do you know if vacu-form canopies are meanth to be dipped in this stuff, or only the injection moulded types? I like the fact that it evens out so neatly evenif using only a regular brush. That Klear bottle with the old "clear" formula seems a tad opaque. Anyway thanks for the link in the description. Had to bookmark that link :)
If you already have it theres no reason to not try it.
If it doesn't suit it's good for laminate or hardwood floors too, :)
The main point of the video is, that it's good for what it is, a cheap acrylic varnish, but thats all it is, old or new so don't be fooled otherwise.
if nothing else its great for transparent parts, windows and aircraft canopies etc, just dip and sit on a piece of kitchen towel and leave to dry.
I'm back to the hobby after an absence of over 40 years. Looking at forums etc I could not for the life of me work out what it was all about.What has wax floor polish got to do with modelling, & where would you use it. 15 minutes of my life usefully spent (just for a change) Entertaining, & *Very Informative* Many thanks.
Brian Wisniewski Glad I could help and enjoy your modelling
Thanks for that mate.. I "built" my 1st kit back when I was around six, in 1959. Back then you built what your local shop sold. I was lucky, In Edinburgh, my nearest model shop was run by a guy called Frank Royle. Called "The Train shop". He also had lots of Airfix kits though.
My first Airfix Kit: "Delta Dart" IIRC came in the famous Plastic Bag, & cost me 1 shilling & Sixpence. (7.5 new PENCE)
Not realising that all the instructions were in the Paper Header Picture thing. When I got it home, I just ripped that off, grabbed the "Glue" that luckily Frank had advised we would need. & got stuck in!
Now, even as a 6 year old, it wasn't hard to see which bits needed to be glued to which other bits. (The concept of paint NEVER entered my head.
The bit that flummoxed me was the "Transfers". The only thing I could think of was to cut round them on the sheet, stick a blob of "glue" on the back, & stick them to the wings.
To my young eyes it looked fantastic. Assorted plastic bits were now an "Airplane", made by ME!
The sense of Achievement was immense. Luckily my parents weren't above a bit of patronising, & told me it looked great... as good as the "Real One".
I'd forgotten that day, until I viewed the video. Now we have the means to perfect sticking "Transfers" onto wings in a way that realistically re-creates the actual Aircraft.
I started off thanking you for the info. Now I have all the kit I need. Airbrushe(s), Compressor, Decal softeners, etc. Nothing wrong with that at all. But, isn't it interesting that the ONLY part of my 6YO build that WASN'T instinctive was the "Transfers". Even doing it "properly", (I sussed it eventually) it was just: Cut round, (DON'T USE GLUE!!!!!). Dip in water, slide off when ready. Position, "Good Luck"
How times Change.
Cheers
That was really great to read, thankyou, it made me smile and just lately i've had little to smile about.
Your parents did exactly the right thing and they, technically, weren't wrong, you did the absolute best you could with what you had and no instructions.
My first kit was a 72nd scale Airfix Lancaster built with my Dad, my first kit I tackled solo was an Airfix Hurricane, to this day my favourite Allied single prop fighter.
I missed the pounds shillings and pence (though not by much) and I remember my first 72nd scale fighter plane kit, (from the local post office, what was a model shop?) cost me the bulk of my weekly pocket money but Dad was kind enough to stump up for the paints I needed.
I had the bonus of knowing about decal application from the previous training session on the Lancaster but had no idea about silvering on Matte paint, but those planes hung proudly from my bedroom ceiling patrolling the skies there for years.
I think it's great you've returned to the hobby and I wish you many years of pleasure building again.
Thanks for that. A 1950's/60's "Model Shop" was just that. Probably evolving post-war, they generally sold Tri-ang OO/HO gauge Trains, but would also sell (mainly) the early Airfix 1/32 & 1/72 kits. These were the "Bagged" Kits you now see on Auction sites. My first ever Purchase from E Bay (2008) was an original, still bagged, Airfix... "Joan of Arc" MY Original, bought on a Saturday afternoon in 1962. (From the aforementioned "Frank Royle's"). ("6" Scale Model") Cost me IIRC two shillings in REAL money. (Ten Pence Modern). I happily paid £29.00 (PLUS Postage) for one, back in '08. I'm not a collector, so I'll build her, (Airbrush her Armour, & do justice to the kit.
It's easy to forget, when you post, that it is accessible world-wide. Too easy to get Parochial. But I found this on an Edinburgh local history website. I bet that everybody reading this had (maybe still does?) a shop like this.
www.edinphoto.org.uk/1_edin/1_edinburgh_history_-_recollections_edinburgh_old_town_chambers_street.htm Scroll down a bit to get responses from folks who lived there.
For the record, the one on "Chambers Street" was NOT "Frank Royle's". But from his closing down sale in the late 60's, I got a fantastic bargain on a "Frog E Type jag.
I must have built several "Lancs" over the years. Favourite was the B17. Best "Bang-for-buck though, (Size-wise was the Douglas Skyraider. - Huge.
'Suppose I'd better subscribe....
Thanks for all the great Info.
Brian Wisniewski That's charming though reading the memories. My first real 'model' shop beyond the local post office was Beatties, so many saturday lunchtimes were spent with a friend in there looking at all the amazing unaffordable (for us schoolkids) Tamiya kits which at the time were a sheer wonder in detail and replication. I'm so glad to hear you plan to build your ebay purchase, I know it's none of my business generally but it's heartbreaking seeing some of those lovely old kits go for silly prices online knowing they'll get stuffed in a cupboard or on a shelf as an 'investment' because they're 'rare'.
If you plan to upload your builds please let me know, I love watching other modellers for hints and tips and just seeing them enjoy the hobby.
I'd certainly appreciate the subscription and hope to get back to doing more model kit related videos soon now the Virago bike project is moving back to its owner and I'm a bit more organized in my head.
That AMT Capri is still waiting on the bench.
Well, I can assure you, the only difference you'd ever notice is the lack of perfume in the old formula, otherwise colour aside you'd never know it was different.
Having a model display room smelling like a floral bouqet is an added bonus too.;)
Thanks man. What we have here people is just damn good information. Next thing you know they will probably try to sell us water. Thanks again spidiq8
It seems most prevalent in Morrisons supermarkets, alternatively, try hardware stores, they often stock it. Failing that you can order it online, Amazon etc, slightly pricier due to the shipping but still better than the 20+ quid for the 'miracle' old formula. That said I have an almost full bottle of the old, you can have that for 19.99+ P&P ;)
I live in Austria and have not been able to find Klear or Future. Would you/posters be possibly know if there is a local brand here or if I should just go to an art store and pick up clear acrylic varnish? Any help greatly appreciated.
Hopefully someone will know, I don't know what it would be called in Australia, it doesn't help that they keep changing the label.
@@spidiq8 Is it still the same stuff today as it was 7 years ago?
@@iamaduckquack The UK one, no it's slightly different but it does behave the same as the old stuff. Some people have said it doesn't dry as clear when used as a pre decal or wash coat but I've not experienced that.
No, it's water thin almost, so just pour and spray, careful how heavy you lay it on, it floods and runs easily which is why I prefer to brush it.
I'm not sure when it first appeared, I would guess just a few years after it first appeared for it's intended use which is as a floor shine.
Someone at some point presumably noted it's similarity to clear acrylic varnish and just tried it, from then it clearly snowballed, at the time it was a ridiculously cheap varnish compared to the hobby shop alternatives.
Thank you. You just answered every question I had about Future. Again thank you very much.
Hi i have taken the plunge and bought a bottle but not used it as yet. Please could you tell me the best thing to use to clean this from an airbrush. I have some acrylic thinners will this be ok ?
Cheers,
Mark.
Yes, that would work fine, I use IPA. Most acrylic thinners contains that and it's cheaper, you can buy litre bottles.
Straight Windex works fine for blowing through your airbrush and cleaning this stuff out.
Thanks for your quick reply I will give it a go when I get to it .
At the moment I am collecting information but it sounds o.k to me thanks again.
Ah yes - how interesting! I just wanted some for a floor, actually, & came across your most informative video! NOW I know what to look for - & an awful lot about its use in making models, should I ever venture down that path.
TR King Great stuff, glad to help though I know little about its use on a floor but if I've encouraged someone else to start building model kits that's a bonus. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for posting this as you have answered my questions regarding this product and I love your slightly sarcastic style made me smile too!! xxx
Haha, thankyou, :)
I'm glad you enjoyed it, I think I can be quite sarcastic with friends in day to day life but I try to avoid that in my videos, in this case however I couldn't help it a little because of some of the utter nonsense you read online and in forums about the old magical brew.
Thanks for watching and happy modelling, I have a few other modelling related videos on here and a half built Tamiya Panigale that I might get around to doing more of and trying to complete soon, (I really should)
cheers buddy, you've just saved me about 18 quid. big thumbs up and thank you. I use glue n glaze for glueing canopies it also makes windows up to 6mm in diameter. only 5 quid from hobby shop.
Stuart Taylor You're welcome, glad to help out. I've not heard of glue and glaze, sounds interesting.
www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/scale-plastics/49-glue-n-glaze-5060243900333.html
Thanks for bothering to do a video about this.
I have been into model making for the past forty years and never really thought much of this floor polish. I tried it once many years ago when it was called 'Future' and frankly did not like what it did - or rather was not really impressed. Funnily enough, an old friend told me he was getting results with this new Klear and I got me a bottle from ebay-UK for £7 plus p+p because it is not available in my country. It is still the same old Future just as you say and I would rather use other specialty gloss varnishes than this. If these become unavailable I might opt to use it but only as a last resort. I do believe that a lot of hype has been spread around by reviewers especially in UK about this product as it is less revered in other countries. It's ok for canopies although there are other equally effective alternatives
Glad you found it useful, it's one of those things that I believe has been blown out of all proportion though it does have it's uses, as said, it's key + point was always that it was cheap, much much cheaper than the then available tiny pots of clear Acryl.
Once the prices went silly on ebay i realised it was newcomers who were effectively being conned into believing this was some wonder product.
Hi just an update managed to get some Klear but looking at it if I was to have betted money on this being suitable for clearing anything I think I would have lost the bet. I will be trying it out but I am still sceptical compared to using the mainstream acrylic. Water thin is not the word for this stuff.
CONT from prev...... simply because.
On a military model your final coat will be satin or matte anyway, If I want to gloss I use enamels.
I'd be interested to see if this is the case but until I am able to look at doing this perhaps you could set up a test yourself and video it, you'd be welcome to post the link and your findings here.
Cost wise though, you'd be far better off with Xtracrylics, old Klear was only ever a cheap varnish, it's pointless when it costs the same as 'proper' stuff.
Can you use the concentrated formula thinning it with water to seal your model before doing the washes?
Having 150 Oz. of the stuff delivered from the US in two days time. I have to see for myself what the big fuzz is all about. Been reading about this floor wax since the dawn of time and felt inferior since it never was available in my country. I never got the impression that the "old" formula was better, but i have picked up some controversies regarding the different types of waxes available. Paid 34 dollars for the 6 pack on amazon. Any thoughts on when this stuff first appeared in modelling?
Well presented talk, to the point and no rubbish, we like it.
Thankyou, glad it was useful
Thanks very much. Morrisons here I come!! Well done. Regards, Peter
Peter Henry You're welcome, glad it was useful
Peter Henry n;
It's likely a different scenario in the US for the stuff, but the 'old formula sells for £20+ a bottle on ebay here, at current exchange thats $32.50 ish, for 500ml, people are just taking advantage of gullible newbies, the new stuff is £3.50 a bottle 750ml from walmart equivalents).
You may have a point about the warm beer, LOL, sadly it does rain too much here. Thats the beauty of RE though, good old fashioned 'if it ain't broke' ideals, (though emissions regs have changed that)
I honestly can't see a problem, I've never had a coating of this do anything strange even after a year or more on the shelf. If it works for you and your paint jobs look OK and dry fine then go for it.
It may even be worth making a little tutorial? Using it as a paint thinner is something i've never tried and I imagine it does that well with acrylics.
I bought some of the new stuff a while back to see how it would work for making puddles and stuff but have also been thinning my paints with a 50:50 mix with distilled water. I figured this stuff was just acrylic medium. Am I wrong? It thins my paints lovely, I've even made a wash with it. I'd rather know now though before I ruin more minis lol!
Yes yes yes yes yes yes its the same thing....but does it yellow like the floor wax I'm familiar with over the years? Me thinks the most important, main thing, what matters is, what ppl want to see, What I wana see anyway is what does it the reflection look like on clear plastic scale model windows?
thanks for that and its good to see someone doing people a good instead of a bad keep the good work up top marks
You're welcome, hope you found it useful.
great info im in usa walmart $6.99 your tutor REALY REALY KOOL the way u pointed out the defrince is creative u da man.Willy
William Freese Thanks, glad it was useful and hope you have fun modelling.
Sorry, i'm not sure what you mean by the concentrated formula?
Tried finding this in my local super market after someone recommended it to me. Couldn't find it, so I wen to lidl and got their W5 version instead.
Will it work the same ?
I've only recently got interested in trying oils, and need to gloss a fair kits for doing washes..
I'm unfamiliar with that, I wasn't aware lidl did one but if it looks the same the chances are the composition will be similar, try it on some scrap plastic and especially clear stuff first and see if it gives the shine and doesn't fog or damage the styrene.
Let us know how it works too.
+spidiq8
All I had was a clear plastic lid from some food. Gave it a clean and dried it off. Here's the before shot;
goo.gl/khG24Q
I had to keep an eye on the daughter today, so only got to brush it on. It went on a little thick in parts, but I figured that was useful for testing.
Here's the after shot;
goo.gl/P221RU
It's had quite a few hours to dry..
Whats your thoughts? I'm not overly sure.. seems to dry with the brush strokes- so no self-leveling, and if its on too thick it dries with that milky colour. I'd be worried if it was on too thick for a mini, it might do the same.
Maybe I should just keep searching for the Future/Pledge stuff..
+ElCommi Hard to tell for sure with the pics but I'd say if it dries with the brushstrokes the chances are it's a lot thicker than klear/pledge, you might find it would work if you airbrush it in thin light coats though but I'd recommend you try to find the Johnson stuff and then compare side by side
+spidiq8 Thanks for the advice. I'll try that I think.
I'll maybe run it through the airbrush as well later this week to give it a test.
funny how some people say its great for modeling but don't dare use it for its intended purpose, being putting it on the floor LOL i also wouldn't be surprised if some of the specific modelers stuff is made by them anyway and re bottled for a higher price
A thick coat (= several thin layers) on a piece of plastic, painted light blue, is to clearly see how much the new and old Klear really affect the original color. Still, a few thinly spray painted layers on my blue airplanes made them turn green. That is really the last thing you want when you've spent weeks building a proper model...
You say there is NO difference whatsoever, but I totally disagree. However, I must say, the milky version I use is Pledge Floor Wax, it has a light wood color.
I cant seem to find either of these products now, have they changed the recipe again.
They have changed the packaging again. If you're in the UK the content is the same as the white bottle. The translucent version but the bottle and label are different, I believe the current incarnation is this.
www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Klear-Multi-Surface-Wax/dp/B008HFVO32#
If you're in the US it's clear like the old UK one and a different bottle.
@@spidiq8 I am in the UK so will give this a try, thank you for the help, very much appreciated.
Thank you for the video, it almost dispelled my doubts about the new Klear formula. It would have been a lot more helpful if you had put your money where your mouth is and brushed a little of each onto similar surfaces to demonstrate the similarity you were trying to talk us into accepting. I waited the whole 15 minutes for you to do this using those little sample jars and .... zilch!!!!!
Apologies Susan,
I do however plan on doing a comparison between old UK klear, new klear and the US version, (which is clear like the old UK one).
It's just currently buried under a mountain of projects which I'm trying to for in between work and suchlike.
I went to get some today 2-1-16 packaging has changed again but happy days it works a real treat paid a little over £3.00 750ml bottle from asda thanks again spidiq8.
I have a problem inasmuch I want to spray it on tissue paper to tighten it and use it as base as a primer for acrylic paint is this o.k . glad of any help thank you
Beryl Price Like you'd do with cellulose dope on balsa wood framed gliders? I'm uncertain if this will perform the same being an acrylic based varnish, sorry I can't help specifically but I'd be very grateful to know if you do try it please.
No wonder I can't find "Klear" anywhere, the bloody name has changed. Thanks for your Video, Now to look for Marathon Bars ;)
In uk its a white bottle with pledge and red bit is yellow just started modeling after a 5 year absence use it for pre decaling and seal my paint work on aircraft and military vehicle's can't believe mugs pay £25 for a bottle of the old stuff.
Yeah that label did cause some initial concern, but i do believe it to be "the shit" :) It does have a blue sport type nozzle/pop top. I did try to google it and have a look at Swannys, but to no avail. If you send me a PM with your e-mail adress, i can send you a picture of the bottles. Also the picture of the product i bought off amazon was of the more well known bottles. So that is what leads me to believe it to be what i am after. It is really sticky to the touch but the smell is sweet!
thanks for taking the time to do this video,
thank you very much for posting this video, will help a lot of people, you're a nice fellow.
Curtis Orth You're welcome, I'm glad you found it useful.
I read somewhere that they added the "tint" to the new stuff because children were drinking the old one...?? Good to know the new one is fine. I've been using Future for years, have an original bottle that's almost empty..lol.
grt video.i use it all the time.just brush a few coats over yr painted model then apply decals and then re coat again to seal the decals.brilliant stuff and smells grt.
Ps: I stocked up for my own use and that of my son, not to sell on.. so worry not.. :)
Yes, here in the USA it's called pledge with future. I understand it's made from unicorn tears hence it's magical properties.
HI Yes i am using it on clear parts. Looks great thanks.
Hmm, not sure on the label, I believe the stuff in the US is labelled differently though, have a google of swannys models page on future / Klear, this shows most of the variants. (link in my description on the video).
The US pledge I think has a sport type pop top? ours has an unscrew lid.
can you tell me were i can get this from cant findi it anywere
it's closer to $11.00 here in Canada but still cheaper than craft varnish which is a ridiculous price.
Hey a fellow Canuck ! Is It called Pledge With Future Shine here in Canada ? I've been looking for it.
Ya I found it at Walmart but Ive been using Varathane these days
Dear Dr Spidiq8,
Firstly i would like to take issue on your review of the properties of this most Excellent rather magical fluid.
1-i have no hair on my head.
2- I have grandchildren.
Let me say now, it does not cure baldness,nor does it remove the gran kids from the man shed,despite what the weather conditions are, or replenish,the money there is in the sweet fund jar that is used in extreme circumstances[most of the time],thank god i have a fridge,where i store my mythical potions,beer, and other substances.
I too would like say, well done on this most informative production,and in future if you decide to tackle any more subjects regarding the modelling hobby,for example,
the cost of upgrade parts,
photo etch,some of the rubbish that is being released,
and also the general cost of the hobby to us mere mortals please let me know.
I do realise this is an old moving picture but i shall endevor to watch your other fare that you are offering on your blogg.
please accept the spirit of this comment in the way it was written.
Best regards,a ripped off pissed off modeller. regards allan.
I know that feeling well and thankyou for your comments, children in general seem to be completely unaware that man caves and man sheds are sacred ground and will try everything to gain entry, (and when succesful, i'm sure they're quite dissapointed most of the time, have you tried bear traps? apparently slightly illegal and perhaps a bit extreme but they're unlikely to try again).
The price of aftermarket parts is horrendous and tempted as I have been with add on parts for some tamiya models I cannot force myself to do it and so far always end up building out of the box with the odd addition of specially hand crafted leftover sprue for some special accessories.
I have yet to use photo etch and being the sort of modeller who baulks at the price of aftermarket decals it may be a while.
Please do check my other modelling videos and If you make any yourself do let me know and i'll be sure to take a look.
(don't film any involving the bear traps and kids, even a disclaimer won't help you there)