Another Home Run!!...I've looked at TONS of YT mower mod sites and NEVER have i seen a build with as much clear instruction and innovation!...already waiting on the next one!
Yea it's great video on building but I was commenting on the guy welding without gloves I know I weld but would not ever weld without gloves a disaster waiting to happen to hands
great music my friend, i’m enjoying your project, Myself and a few buddy’s are building mods, you show and explain procedures, making it very easy to follow. Thanks for the info
I am enjoying your can-do attitude, your excellent editing, and your straight-ahead approach to solving the inevitable dilemmas. I am doing a similar project, but with a purpose-built frame. Used a jackshaft to get the power up to the pulley on top; seating behind the transaxle rather than over it. Kinda slingshottish. Anyway, you inspire me. Good gumption vibes. Onward!
Just found your videos, This is the best built video I've seen in forever! One good thing about just now finding you is i don't have to wait for the next video 😂 I'm binge watching the series , Awesome job!
I am new to your channel. You do some pretty awesome work! Nice.. I build custom cars. So much fabrication goes into each car for sure lol. I have been wanting to build a custom low mower for a minute.. you have given me some great ideas!! Thank you. And, hello from California 😊
loving the videos mate. just a bit of advice when drilling holes 20:35 small holes high speed, large holes LOW speed. the speed your drilling the larger holes will dull your drill bit and ruin the temper on the cutting edge, making them a sod to sharpen.
@@wybarprojects your welcome, i did a pre-apprenticeship course in 2010, so i could learn to weld and time was split between welding and machine shop. the other bit of advice re: drilling, cutting FLUID is not oil, some water with a bit of detergent (a surfactant to spead the water) is way better than WD40 or oil. cutting fluid is to used remove the heat, oil lubricates and prevents the drill from cutting, it generates more heat and blunts drill faster loving the videos, sadly most of my murrays have a pressed frame and not a chassis like yours
@@amandagardner565 that’s awesome! Ya, I got lucky with my mower. My neighbor just set it out on the street one day so I asked him about it and he said he got a new one and I could have for free 😂
This is awesome bud, I gotta do one now, so cool. But or the steering linkage, im gonna try to thread the rods and then thread the inside of a pipe. It would be adjustable and stronger than 2 butt welds per side.
Awesome project, and literally the only place I'm going to knock you is "flat strap". I've been with a structural steel company for the past 15 years. In the industry, that's "flat bar". It's bar stock; round bar, square bar, or flat bar. I'm not trying to be a Karen, what you're doing is friggin' awesome, and I'm going to be a new subscriber. I'm just wanted to say something before the keyboard welders started attacking.
First of all, thank you very much for the compliment! On the terminology, I do buy a lot of steel and I know the technical names, but I’ve always had a hard time with flat bar. I honestly don’t have a good reason for calling it flat strap, but we use it to make what we call “floor straps”, so it feels more natural.
If you only flip the axle it will have 6 reverse and 1 forward gear, but if you flip it then spin it 180° you’ll get the 6 forward and 1 reverse again. Here’s a short video explaining it: How To Flip a Rear Axle and Keep ALL Forward Gears! th-cam.com/users/shortsynkx2HVngCE?feature=share
The main reason is that would cost money. I may do custom steering with tie rod ends in the future, but my goal is to leave it as stock as possible for as long as possible for the lowest cost possible. I want to be able to tell people “if you have a mower, a grinder, and a welder, you can do this too”
@@CaptainLD69 I know a few hundred dollars is nothing to shake a stick at, but you can get a good used welder for about $300-500 and once you get it figured out, there’s no question about whether it was worth it.
@@wybarprojects any recommendations of brand/model? Also preferably something for a regular outlet as I'm renting only for another year so rather not have a new outlet put in.
@@CaptainLD69 I know people that swear by Harbor Freight and Northern Tool house brands, although I haven’t had personal experience with them in at least 10 years and they were not great back then. I stick to Miller, Lincoln, and Hobart. They each offer a 110/120 volt option that works great. The one I’ve been using in these videos is a Millermatic 135 with .035” flux core wire. I would check FB marketplace, Craigslist, etc. and just test it before you buy it
Not saying anything bad just maybe suggestions on steering linkage weld up ! Seen a few guys use angle iron ! laying the steering linkage in at the back of 90 and burn it in ! over lapping linkage and angel iron 4 or 5 inches ! Most likely stronger than butt welding two pieces o rod together !
Lol. 2/8" don't you mean a 1/4" I like this guy, he builds by the seat of his pants does something and figures out how to make it work. Sounds like something I'd do.
Great video but I’ve got to wonder why you didn’t raise the engine plate instead of building the risers, looks like it would unbolt and you could have put the risers underneath
Im sure by rhis time u have already discovered that the 5 or 6 speed w/ R hydro trannies don't work well at all and definitely dont shift as expected , but we also have been known to use 20 hp oppys . Do you plan to do a pulley swap? Its the only way to get anythingbetter than mowing speed IF you have any intent to put any power to the trans , we have been having pretty good luck with the F N R automatics and use the supplied variable speed pulley and a pair of idlers to clutch it . Just thought id toss that in there . Have fun and keep it safe !
Square corner holes create stress risers. Next time when cutting a structural member, it would be best practice to use a step drill at each end of the opening the cut out between the tangent points of the round holes. 😉
Another Home Run!!...I've looked at TONS of YT mower mod sites and NEVER have i seen a build with as much clear instruction and innovation!...already waiting on the next one!
Thank you very much!
Yea it's great video on building but I was commenting on the guy welding without gloves I know I weld but would not ever weld without gloves a disaster waiting to happen to hands
I wanna buy this.....what's ur price, my guy??? CASH MONEY
great music my friend, i’m enjoying your project, Myself and a few buddy’s are building mods, you show and explain procedures, making it very easy to follow. Thanks for the info
I am enjoying your can-do attitude, your excellent editing, and your straight-ahead approach to solving the inevitable dilemmas. I am doing a similar project, but with a purpose-built frame. Used a jackshaft to get the power up to the pulley on top; seating behind the transaxle rather than over it. Kinda slingshottish. Anyway, you inspire me. Good gumption vibes. Onward!
Wow, thank you very much! I love hearing that others have similar projects going on and yours sounds particularly interesting
People don't appreciate how much effort is done to get to the finished product!
Just found your videos, This is the best built video I've seen in forever! One good thing about just now finding you is i don't have to wait for the next video 😂 I'm binge watching the series , Awesome job!
Thank you very much!!
I'm digging the build man I'm wondering if u will have to seal the trans axle and put a fill hole in the top to get it to survive.
Does the rear axle have oil something in it? Does that not affect fact you've mounted it upside-down now?
I am new to your channel. You do some pretty awesome work! Nice.. I build custom cars. So much fabrication goes into each car for sure lol. I have been wanting to build a custom low mower for a minute.. you have given me some great ideas!! Thank you. And, hello from California 😊
loving the videos mate.
just a bit of advice when drilling holes 20:35 small holes high speed, large holes LOW speed.
the speed your drilling the larger holes will dull your drill bit and ruin the temper on the cutting edge, making them a sod to sharpen.
Thank you!
@@wybarprojects your welcome, i did a pre-apprenticeship course in 2010, so i could learn to weld and time was split between welding and machine shop.
the other bit of advice re: drilling, cutting FLUID is not oil, some water with a bit of detergent (a surfactant to spead the water) is way better than WD40 or oil.
cutting fluid is to used remove the heat, oil lubricates and prevents the drill from cutting, it generates more heat and blunts drill faster
loving the videos, sadly most of my murrays have a pressed frame and not a chassis like yours
@@amandagardner565 that’s awesome!
Ya, I got lucky with my mower. My neighbor just set it out on the street one day so I asked him about it and he said he got a new one and I could have for free 😂
Man, that’s a good looking ford you have!
Just watching the series. I want to see where this is going. Even a simple comment helps you with the algorithm.
That’s awesome, thank you very much!
This is awesome bud, I gotta do one now, so cool. But or the steering linkage, im gonna try to thread the rods and then thread the inside of a pipe. It would be adjustable and stronger than 2 butt welds per side.
this is an amazing series thank you! Welds are a lot stronger than I thought! haha
Thank you!!
I was curious how you were going to do the steering! And damn is it low. Can't wait to see it moving!
Great work
Cool. I'm learning a lot!
Great video
Thank you!
Awesome project, and literally the only place I'm going to knock you is "flat strap". I've been with a structural steel company for the past 15 years. In the industry, that's "flat bar". It's bar stock; round bar, square bar, or flat bar. I'm not trying to be a Karen, what you're doing is friggin' awesome, and I'm going to be a new subscriber. I'm just wanted to say something before the keyboard welders started attacking.
First of all, thank you very much for the compliment!
On the terminology, I do buy a lot of steel and I know the technical names, but I’ve always had a hard time with flat bar. I honestly don’t have a good reason for calling it flat strap, but we use it to make what we call “floor straps”, so it feels more natural.
Great video!
What about the hydro fluid in the transaxle.... will it oil correctly.
So far, yes. But time will tell
Why doesn't the vehicle reverse when you reverse the axle?
If you only flip the axle it will have 6 reverse and 1 forward gear, but if you flip it then spin it 180° you’ll get the 6 forward and 1 reverse again.
Here’s a short video explaining it: How To Flip a Rear Axle and Keep ALL Forward Gears!
th-cam.com/users/shortsynkx2HVngCE?feature=share
@@wybarprojects thanks man
Just curious why keep the mower steering instead of doing something similar to kart steering?
The main reason is that would cost money. I may do custom steering with tie rod ends in the future, but my goal is to leave it as stock as possible for as long as possible for the lowest cost possible. I want to be able to tell people “if you have a mower, a grinder, and a welder, you can do this too”
@@wybarprojects that's what my thoughts were as I'm thinking about doing this as well! Just dont have a welder:/
@@CaptainLD69 I know a few hundred dollars is nothing to shake a stick at, but you can get a good used welder for about $300-500 and once you get it figured out, there’s no question about whether it was worth it.
@@wybarprojects any recommendations of brand/model? Also preferably something for a regular outlet as I'm renting only for another year so rather not have a new outlet put in.
@@CaptainLD69 I know people that swear by Harbor Freight and Northern Tool house brands, although I haven’t had personal experience with them in at least 10 years and they were not great back then. I stick to Miller, Lincoln, and Hobart. They each offer a 110/120 volt option that works great. The one I’ve been using in these videos is a Millermatic 135 with .035” flux core wire. I would check FB marketplace, Craigslist, etc. and just test it before you buy it
Not saying anything bad just maybe suggestions on steering linkage weld up ! Seen a few guys use angle iron ! laying the steering linkage in at the back of 90 and burn it in ! over lapping linkage and angel iron 4 or 5 inches ! Most likely stronger than butt welding two pieces o rod together !
So cool. 😊
what kind of mower are you using?
It’s a Murray LT1000 Widebody
what transmission is that
Everyone else has a big pulley on the front and small in the back. How do 2 small pulleys affect the speed?
Lol. 2/8" don't you mean a 1/4"
I like this guy, he builds by the seat of his pants does something and figures out how to make it work. Sounds like something I'd do.
2/8” is just easier to for me to work with sometimes 😂
And you nailed my build philosophy: do what feels right and adjust it later if you need to
Yea that's the way I do things in shop just think as I build
Great video but I’ve got to wonder why you didn’t raise the engine plate instead of building the risers, looks like it would unbolt and you could have put the risers underneath
Thank you!
Welding the risers just seemed like an easier and more stable option
Im sure by rhis time u have already discovered that the 5 or 6 speed w/ R hydro trannies don't work well at all and definitely dont shift as expected , but we also have been known to use 20 hp oppys . Do you plan to do a pulley swap? Its the only way to get anythingbetter than mowing speed IF you have any intent to put any power to the trans , we have been having pretty good luck with the F N R automatics and use the supplied variable speed pulley and a pair of idlers to clutch it . Just thought id toss that in there . Have fun and keep it safe !
I don't really plan on adding any power, but I have done a pulley swap on the rear. I'm still contemplating doing a swap on the front as well.
Square corner holes create stress risers. Next time when cutting a structural member, it would be best practice to use a step drill at each end of the opening the cut out between the tangent points of the round holes. 😉
You'll probably want to put the big pulley on the engine... It's gonna be slow. Good video.
Thank you!
I do plan on going with a larger pulley on the front, but it will be a new steel pulley.
Im doing the same thing righy now but mine dont got a trans its gonna be chain driven
09:55 Calculating with freedom unit's, very troublesome, very hard. Metric ftw😅
Good soundtrack
What do you do eh en the weld is not good
Grind it off, check your settings, and try again
Just want to let you know that is not a transmission it is cold gearbox is the rear differential gear box that whole gear lube
I wonder why he just didn't use a go cart torque converter instead of a transmission?
Interesting. Music needs to go, but other than that pretty cool.
Welding without gloves Huh
Ya, it’s by choice. I prefer dexterity and deal with everything else
You better have some positive caster in the front end or you won't be able to steer it ,lean the front axle back at the top !!!
The steering came out great. I didn’t change any of the angles, just cut the axle and shifted it up. It steers like a stock mower still!