I’m looking at tires and I’m thinking I’m going to do this to my Craftsman and I’m going to buy some turf slicks and groove them to resemble some Nitto R888 or Falken Azeris tires. I can’t find polished deep dish wheels though. I was thinking some shifter cart wheels would be sick. If only the mower was 4 lug it would be easier to find some wheels.
Okay you’ve got me interested in my Craftsman Lawn Tractor again. I guess I better teach myself to weld, but what better way than on an inexpensive project like this.
I just binged this project. Well done sir. Having to choke the carb means it does not have enough fuel. One thing to try is to drill the Carb jet one size larger than it is with a micro drill bit. This will give you a little more fuel. Worked for me. Great project brother looking forward to the paint. Take care.
I also have a much older murry im playing with,so far sectioned the rear body fenders down low over stick 18s,,has a 17Hp tachcumsa ,,but a hydro rear end,,hope to find a r or 6 spd for it
Hey I don't know if it would help any but I learned this the hard way with those gravity fed single cylinder carburetors they don't like sucking gas to those huge filters you want a small one like the red one you pulled off
I bought a new Briggs OEM carb for my 2011 Craftsman 46" deck tractor mower because a neighbor who was helping me lost an internal part or two. We found a tiny one on the ground, but at least one other part was missing. Without a complete carb and everything where it's supposed to be, I didn't attempt a rebuild kit and didn't want to take a chance on a cheap replacement. This one was running great, so the recent rough starting and idling may be old gas, which I thought I put Sta-Bil in. I never heard of Mikuni, so if I ever need another new carb, I'll look at theirs. I won't be hot rodding, but a performance carb couldn't hurt. However, I'll maintain the new Briggs like you're doing, cleaning it, and a rebuild kit would be an option, if ever needed. This one was $165, maybe with tax, at a parts shop. I wonder what a Mikuni would cost. Your carb was running with the old gas and you adjusted the idle on it then, so maybe it needs to be adjusted again. Did you clean all the tiny port holes in the emulsion tube? It usually unscrews with a flat blade from the top. Just run a small wire, like for a bread tie, through all the holes and use something similar in larger holes. An Ultrasonic Cleaner may help. Put the carb and internal parts in a ziplock with solution and then put that in the Ultrasonic Cleaner. An Ultrasonic Cleaner is only supposed to have water in the tank, but the ziplock will allow that and still have the carb and parts in a cleaning solution.
I have pulled and cleaned the emulsion tube and poked out all the orifices the best I could, but I have a buddy that has an ultrasonic cleaner and I’ll probably try running it through there in the future
10 years ago i bought an old 4 post hoist, i soon fabricated some small ramps and rails to got across the inside of the main rails , i can drive my Murrays on from the side, and the wheels just fit either side, so i can remove the bridge rails and clean underneath and inspect for damage. i'm only 56, but getting down on the floor is beyond my current health, so the hoist is worth every dollar i paid for it.
Needs air-fuel adjustment if it was that black with soot. I'd move the shifter to the center support for the steering. Just need a longer rod and another pivot point to join them. For the seat area, I would cut a 45-deg "mud guard" bevel, since there is a lot of dead-space under that narrow seating gap. Some back-side 1/3 mud-guard wheel-wells for the front would make it look cool too. It will stop the wheel from throwing stones and mud at your face, muffler and boots, while driving. I would have made leg extensions so my feet were closer to the front wheels, for comfort. I know you were going to try and use a lot of the stock locations, but it just doesn't suit the lowered seating and function.
I agree with everything you said. I’m learning a lot along the way and I’m going to finish this one out and use everything I learn from it on a future project
Fuel filter you put on is for a fuel pump system the micron count is wrong and doesn’t allow fuel to flow freely where as the red filter basically is just a screen and allows free flow of fuel. Ram into that a few times working at the dealer.
2 things,,make a 90 cut on your shifter,run it out so its past your thigh,do a 45 and it should be better,,make a piston shift knob,lol,that's one sweet machine
Having to use the choke is indicative of a lean condition…and in your carb tear down, it appears you didn’t remove the float and check for any obstruction in the needle and seat assembly, some carbs have a screen that catches debris prior to entering the fuel bowl area. Check your float drop and level too. The soot on your spark plug could be from an over rich condition (as in using the choke) or insufficient spark…just to name a few possibilities. Learn more about carbon makers (carburetors) before throwing money into another…a headache that could turn into a nightmare! Check the flywheel key, I’ve seen where the key didn’t shear but was offset enough to throw it out of time…creating a host of calamities! Just some food for thought…anyway, cool build, good luck 👍
Black carbon on spark plug is caused by incorrect air fuel mixture. New carb 25$. Non methanol fuel sets up in carb without stabilizing it. Try sea foam from the parts store. Sometimes that will work. Our racing carbs are pretty sensitive, factory carbs not so bad.
Setting the idle with the breather off is going to require some choke. The carb is getting full air supply and it's usually restricted some by the air box. Sweet hot rod tho
I’m coming to your last couple vids on this project now - is the project all tidied up now or have you moved to the next project? I gotta say well done - you must be happy with the sub and view counts, I see the subs have gone up 1k since I first noticed your channel a few weeks back. It is a cool project and you’ve done well with the video creation I reckon, I hope you plan to keep doing it 👍 And maybe you have a vacuum leak too (can require the choke to be on a bit to idle) hit the manifold with some ether while running it (but watch for those exhaust sparks 😉)
Thank you!! I’m thrilled with the community growing around the channel and it makes everything more fun for sure. I’m not done with the project yet, I’m just stuck on paint prep and it’s taking forever. Not to mention we’ve hit the middle of summer in south Texas and we usually hit 100+°F in the afternoons. I recently got a new drum fan which helps, but it’s still blowing 100° air at me 😂 I should have the new video up next Sunday 🤞
@@wybarprojects that is the wrong fuel filter for a gravity feed fuel tank...for gravity feed paper filters cause too much flow restriction... instead you should use a mesh type filter often color coded as a red filter (for ex. Briggs & Stratton Fuel Filter 5018K) aftermarket may be red or clear but will state mesh (100-200 micron), white/clear filters will fuel starve your engine (under 100 micron and usually paper/cloth) if you want the additional filtration you will need to install either a pulse pump or a low pressure (3psi or less) electric pump
Love to see it, have a spare lawnmower reason I started watching the shorts and it got me to start watching the entire build, would love to have u as a next door neighbor!
To be honest, I haven't tried it yet. I started tearing the body apart shortly after I got it. I'll be able to test it out once I get everything put back together and I'll let you know@@adamcompton567
You bought 1 gallon of stright ethanol free gas, but what you got was about 1/2 A gallon of ethanol fuel if the last person bought regularly gas. The hose on the pump serves all fuel types. What you should do is fill up your car or truck with ethanol free gas then fill your 1 gallon container so you use up everything in the hose at the pump first. Also unless the filter says flow this way it might be backwards, also because its such a large filter and sideways its filling up with air pockets and the carb bowl is running low on gasoline the filter should be installed so its always full, close to the tank like right under it. Last clean the carbon out of the combustion chamber and off the valves try some seafoam yes like a car, water will also burn it off. Last change the oil and filter. And paint this thing. Murry rat racer.
The ethanol free gas is run through its own hose, so no worries there. The filter has a small magnet on the inlet side, although you’re right about the air bubble; I’ll try to get the bubble out by raising the tank before I reinstall it. I’ll give the sea foam a shot and see if it’ll clean everything up a bit and paint is coming! I’m finishing up the body work now
nope its the wrong filter for the application it should be mesh not paper... paper filters require a pump due to the restriction to flow they create however mesh doesn't create this restriction.
Oversized the jet jet might be too small If you have a jet drill to go ovprecise that's should help because I had a drill my jet out oversized and it ran fine
I like the Idea of lowering the tractor, But I would put a Horizontal shaft engine on it, with a Torque Converter, and direct drive it to a solid rear axle, and put the smallest sprocket you can find for the axle, that would give you maximum top end speed, but that's just me !
Your mis matched front tires are irritating my ocd. 😁Sorry if I missed it but how does the gearing work when you’re running the transaxle essentially backwards?
It’s irritating mine too 😂 I do plan on fixing it eventually On the transaxle, I flipped it then spun it 180° so I still have all forward gears and one reverse. Here’s a short explaining it: How To Flip a Rear Axle and Keep ALL Forward Gears! th-cam.com/users/shortsynkx2HVngCE?feature=share
That's direct evidence that it's running too lean. If that cab has a mixture screw turn it in more and see if you can get it to smooth out with no choke.
Take the new VW fuel filter off, with your mouth "only" blow into the red fuel filter, put it back on the mower, it should run fine. You can not replace a red filter with the VW filter ! When it works, go get a new RED filter. Work Safe, Be Well Enjoy Life
It's really interesting you obviously have a little fabrication skill but can't set the idle on a carburator. You have the idle speed set too low. There's no point in doing anything if your running it partial choke, that's how you get fouled plugs. None of this is abnormal though, people do much worse. Maybe you figured it out in a later video?
Man looks good But spending that much time and effort to just cruise around at 10 mph max speed is not worth the effort in my opinion!! Also as many times you remove the body could have rattle can paint the body, and change out front tires to smaller those just look out of place. But like I said just my opinion
Still not fast enough lol if I’m spending day much time and money I want to rip and drift that machine. Just my two cents it was cool watching the transition tho!!
Polished wheels n clear headlights ❤️
I’m looking at tires and I’m thinking I’m going to do this to my Craftsman and I’m going to buy some turf slicks and groove them to resemble some Nitto R888 or Falken Azeris tires. I can’t find polished deep dish wheels though. I was thinking some shifter cart wheels would be sick. If only the mower was 4 lug it would be easier to find some wheels.
I usually like to put the fuel cutoff before the fuel filter. It makes it less messy to replace the filter.
That’s a great thought that didn’t cross my mind 😂 I’ll be swapping them out
Okay you’ve got me interested in my Craftsman Lawn Tractor again. I guess I better teach myself to weld, but what better way than on an inexpensive project like this.
DO IT!!!! You won’t regret it
Great fun! Thanks for the video.
Dude I'm watching this I'm Subscribed totally awesome build !
Great video series, very thought provoking, cheers. I can see me in the dog house real soon.
Thank you!
Happy i came across this channel!! Doing a wheelhorse mud mower Vtwin swap on my channel. I think this will be my next budget tinker time project!
Pretty cool 😎 cant wait to get my Murray done .building it for drag racing.great videos
Thank you!
I just binged this project. Well done sir. Having to choke the carb means it does not have enough fuel. One thing to try is to drill the Carb jet one size larger than it is with a micro drill bit. This will give you a little more fuel. Worked for me. Great project brother looking forward to the paint. Take care.
Thank you very much!!
Try to get the fuel tank a bit higher for gravity to work befor drill jets just a thought my friend 😁👍
with you having to apply choke I'd check the block to carb gaskets. Did you reuse the old gaskets?
The great content just keeps on coming!...Thanks again!
Thank you!
I've never seen BBS type wheels on a lawn mower, that would be intresting. DIY BBS wheels on lawn mower? Great content keep it up!
I will absolutely look into that. Thank you!!
You’d have to design them and have them 3D printed or something. Maybe sintered prints from shapeways.
Really cool and great work.
Thank you!!
I also have a much older murry im playing with,so far sectioned the rear body fenders down low over stick 18s,,has a 17Hp tachcumsa ,,but a hydro rear end,,hope to find a r or 6 spd for it
That’s awesome! Good luck on your build!
Hey I don't know if it would help any but I learned this the hard way with those gravity fed single cylinder carburetors they don't like sucking gas to those huge filters you want a small one like the red one you pulled off
I bought a new Briggs OEM carb for my 2011 Craftsman 46" deck tractor mower because a neighbor who was helping me lost an internal part or two. We found a tiny one on the ground, but at least one other part was missing. Without a complete carb and everything where it's supposed to be, I didn't attempt a rebuild kit and didn't want to take a chance on a cheap replacement. This one was running great, so the recent rough starting and idling may be old gas, which I thought I put Sta-Bil in. I never heard of Mikuni, so if I ever need another new carb, I'll look at theirs. I won't be hot rodding, but a performance carb couldn't hurt. However, I'll maintain the new Briggs like you're doing, cleaning it, and a rebuild kit would be an option, if ever needed. This one was $165, maybe with tax, at a parts shop. I wonder what a Mikuni would cost.
Your carb was running with the old gas and you adjusted the idle on it then, so maybe it needs to be adjusted again. Did you clean all the tiny port holes in the emulsion tube? It usually unscrews with a flat blade from the top. Just run a small wire, like for a bread tie, through all the holes and use something similar in larger holes. An Ultrasonic Cleaner may help. Put the carb and internal parts in a ziplock with solution and then put that in the Ultrasonic Cleaner. An Ultrasonic Cleaner is only supposed to have water in the tank, but the ziplock will allow that and still have the carb and parts in a cleaning solution.
I have pulled and cleaned the emulsion tube and poked out all the orifices the best I could, but I have a buddy that has an ultrasonic cleaner and I’ll probably try running it through there in the future
@@wybarprojects Good luck and remember to put everything in a ziplock. That prevents ruining the warranty.
@@wybarprojects Also, sometimes the needle is an issue, especially if rubber tipped. There's often a needle seat o-ring as a seal to consider, too.
That is something I could really use, make life easier. Great videos.
Thank you!
The surging of the engine is probably a vacuum leak in the carb. Great videos man, keel it up
Thank you!
10 years ago i bought an old 4 post hoist, i soon fabricated some small ramps and rails to got across the inside of the main rails , i can drive my Murrays on from the side, and the wheels just fit either side, so i can remove the bridge rails and clean underneath and inspect for damage.
i'm only 56, but getting down on the floor is beyond my current health, so the hoist is worth every dollar i paid for it.
That’s awesome!
Needs air-fuel adjustment if it was that black with soot. I'd move the shifter to the center support for the steering. Just need a longer rod and another pivot point to join them. For the seat area, I would cut a 45-deg "mud guard" bevel, since there is a lot of dead-space under that narrow seating gap. Some back-side 1/3 mud-guard wheel-wells for the front would make it look cool too. It will stop the wheel from throwing stones and mud at your face, muffler and boots, while driving. I would have made leg extensions so my feet were closer to the front wheels, for comfort. I know you were going to try and use a lot of the stock locations, but it just doesn't suit the lowered seating and function.
I agree with everything you said. I’m learning a lot along the way and I’m going to finish this one out and use everything I learn from it on a future project
Fuel filter you put on is for a fuel pump system the micron count is wrong and doesn’t allow fuel to flow freely where as the red filter basically is just a screen and allows free flow of fuel. Ram into that a few times working at the dealer.
What is the carb you were talking about? Very cool project!
Thank you! It’s a carb commonly found on dirt bikes and four wheelers that has a sliding tube to control air flow instead of butterfly flaps
More power!
That thing is bad ass! Love it.
Thank you!
2 things,,make a 90 cut on your shifter,run it out so its past your thigh,do a 45 and it should be better,,make a piston shift knob,lol,that's one sweet machine
Thank you!
Having to use the choke is indicative of a lean condition…and in your carb tear down, it appears you didn’t remove the float and check for any obstruction in the needle and seat assembly, some carbs have a screen that catches debris prior to entering the fuel bowl area. Check your float drop and level too. The soot on your spark plug could be from an over rich condition (as in using the choke) or insufficient spark…just to name a few possibilities. Learn more about carbon makers (carburetors) before throwing money into another…a headache that could turn into a nightmare!
Check the flywheel key, I’ve seen where the key didn’t shear but was offset enough to throw it out of time…creating a host of calamities! Just some food for thought…anyway, cool build, good luck 👍
Great tips, thank you!
@@wybarprojects you’re welcome bro👍
Crazy cool 😂
Thank you!
Looks like a poor man’s sprint car!😂
Black carbon on spark plug is caused by incorrect air fuel mixture. New carb 25$. Non methanol fuel sets up in carb without stabilizing it. Try sea foam from the parts store. Sometimes that will work. Our racing carbs are pretty sensitive, factory carbs not so bad.
Setting the idle with the breather off is going to require some choke. The carb is getting full air supply and it's usually restricted some by the air box. Sweet hot rod tho
Thank you!
YOO!! i TOTALLY RECOGNISE THIS PARKING LOT! Are yall in North KC off of Burnet?
No sir, south TX
I’m coming to your last couple vids on this project now - is the project all tidied up now or have you moved to the next project? I gotta say well done - you must be happy with the sub and view counts, I see the subs have gone up 1k since I first noticed your channel a few weeks back. It is a cool project and you’ve done well with the video creation I reckon, I hope you plan to keep doing it 👍
And maybe you have a vacuum leak too (can require the choke to be on a bit to idle) hit the manifold with some ether while running it (but watch for those exhaust sparks 😉)
Thank you!! I’m thrilled with the community growing around the channel and it makes everything more fun for sure. I’m not done with the project yet, I’m just stuck on paint prep and it’s taking forever. Not to mention we’ve hit the middle of summer in south Texas and we usually hit 100+°F in the afternoons. I recently got a new drum fan which helps, but it’s still blowing 100° air at me 😂
I should have the new video up next Sunday 🤞
@@wybarprojects haha, we get the same heat in summer with 70% humidity so lots of excuses why projects don’t get done then
Great video, you can also put everything back on and spary the carb with brake cleaner while it's running. It will tell ya if you have a vacuum leak.
Thank you!
@@wybarprojects that is the wrong fuel filter for a gravity feed fuel tank...for gravity feed paper filters cause too much flow restriction... instead you should use a mesh type filter often color coded as a red filter (for ex. Briggs & Stratton Fuel Filter 5018K) aftermarket may be red or clear but will state mesh (100-200 micron), white/clear filters will fuel starve your engine (under 100 micron and usually paper/cloth) if you want the additional filtration you will need to install either a pulse pump or a low pressure (3psi or less) electric pump
@@dodgeme1986truck good to know! Nobody has explained why it’s the wrong filter yet, just that it is
Thank you!
@@wybarprojects it's like pouring water through 3 paper coffee filters still stuck together vs. Through a strainer/collander
@@dodgeme1986truck thanks dodgeme, two of my murrays have surging issues at times, i'll switch back to the red filters.
g'day from Australia
How fast does it go
Right now it tops out at about 16 mph. I plan on eventually doing an engine pulley swap as well and I should be able to hit 25ish
What's the engine size on that To me that carburetor looks awfully small for that kind of engine needs a bigger one
A billet aluminum gas cap would look good on there
That’s a great idea!
Should have swapped fuel filter and shut off valve to make changing filter easier.
Has came a long way
Thank you!
Love to see it, have a spare lawnmower reason I started watching the shorts and it got me to start watching the entire build, would love to have u as a next door neighbor!
@@middleclass9875 that’s awesome! If you decide to build the mower, I would love to see updates!
Is it just me or shouldn't the shut off valve be closer to the tank so you can shut the fuel off instead of draining tank to change filter?
That would make sense 😂 good call
might be a vacuum leak or sumting with the ignition (being weak and missing ignition at times)
I agree, I have a feeling it’s a vacuum leak on the carb. I just got a new one in I’m going to test out
@@wybarprojectsdid the new carb fix problem? If so what kind? Thanx
To be honest, I haven't tried it yet. I started tearing the body apart shortly after I got it. I'll be able to test it out once I get everything put back together and I'll let you know@@adamcompton567
You bought 1 gallon of stright ethanol free gas, but what you got was about 1/2
A gallon of ethanol fuel if the last person bought regularly gas. The hose on the pump serves all fuel types. What you should do is fill up your car or truck with ethanol free gas then fill your 1 gallon container so you use up everything in the hose at the pump first.
Also unless the filter says flow this way it might be backwards, also because its such a large filter and sideways its filling up with air pockets and the carb bowl is running low on gasoline the filter should be installed so its always full, close to the tank like right under it.
Last clean the carbon out of the combustion chamber and off the valves try some seafoam yes like a car, water will also burn it off.
Last change the oil and filter.
And paint this thing.
Murry rat racer.
The ethanol free gas is run through its own hose, so no worries there. The filter has a small magnet on the inlet side, although you’re right about the air bubble; I’ll try to get the bubble out by raising the tank before I reinstall it. I’ll give the sea foam a shot and see if it’ll clean everything up a bit and paint is coming! I’m finishing up the body work now
nope its the wrong filter for the application it should be mesh not paper... paper filters require a pump due to the restriction to flow they create however mesh doesn't create this restriction.
Get a sonic parts cleaner for your carb O/H
Oversized the jet jet might be too small If you have a jet drill to go ovprecise that's should help because I had a drill my jet out oversized and it ran fine
It's running realy lean. Up a jet size or two.
I like the Idea of lowering the tractor, But I would put a Horizontal shaft engine on it, with a Torque Converter, and direct drive it to a solid rear axle, and put the smallest sprocket you can find for the axle, that would give you maximum top end speed, but that's just me !
Bigger jets
Don't you know that the ground wire is the first one off and the last one on ??
May be the wrong fuel filter
16:50 when he starts driving it
You are having to choke it because with the free flowing exhaust it once more fuel. A larger jet will probably fix it.
Get rid of the governor. Typically u don’t hear the governor kicking in and out. It’s set at the right speed. But u changed the spring.
Your mis matched front tires are irritating my ocd. 😁Sorry if I missed it but how does the gearing work when you’re running the transaxle essentially backwards?
It’s irritating mine too 😂 I do plan on fixing it eventually
On the transaxle, I flipped it then spun it 180° so I still have all forward gears and one reverse.
Here’s a short explaining it: How To Flip a Rear Axle and Keep ALL Forward Gears!
th-cam.com/users/shortsynkx2HVngCE?feature=share
Main jet stopped up
That's direct evidence that it's running too lean. If that cab has a mixture screw turn it in more and see if you can get it to smooth out with no choke.
Low 2-3 pound electeic fuel pump might help it gwt a little more gas
LED HEADLIGHTS AND TAIL LIGHTS WITH BRAKE LIGHTS. ALL LED.
New headlight cover out of lexan its not hard to bend.
You do not use a wire
On the jets you use a torch
Your fuel tank may be low enough it is starving for fuel. try filling the tank.
You might have a shear pin, under your flywheel, bad. If it had hit something in its previous life. This will change your timing.
Take the new VW fuel filter off, with your mouth "only" blow into the red fuel filter, put it back on the mower, it should run fine.
You can not replace a red filter with the VW filter !
When it works, go get a new RED filter.
Work Safe, Be Well
Enjoy Life
Says how to lower lawnmower not clean carburetor
20 mins I'll never get back
It's really interesting you obviously have a little fabrication skill but can't set the idle on a carburator.
You have the idle speed set too low. There's no point in doing anything if your running it partial choke, that's how you get fouled plugs.
None of this is abnormal though, people do much worse. Maybe you figured it out in a later video?
Man looks good
But spending that much time and effort to just cruise around at 10 mph max speed is not worth the effort in my opinion!! Also as many times you remove the body could have rattle can paint the body, and change out front tires to smaller those just look out of place. But like I said just my opinion
Not to pick hairs, but top speed is 16 mph 😆 It will be worth it for me, 16 mph feels like 40 when you're riding it
Still not fast enough lol if I’m spending day much time and money I want to rip and drift that machine. Just my two cents it was cool watching the transition tho!!
@@dwaynelejeune3508 Thank you!