Dude you’re killin’ it with the geometry and squaring things up along with your videos being awesome, but when you were welding with clear glasses and just closing your eyes I laughed a lot... that’s some shit I do for sure!
just thorow it together... it is not a Steinway... and Son's GRAND piano. it goes fast, esp for a ridingmower and turns left a lot... or turns R but goes Left. for regular ppl that spend... ~$500 or so on a ok street rding mower... but wud to spend $5000 on a REAL FAST/good steering/stopping riding mower... if we can get the steering and brakes to handle... 35 mph and not kill us, that wud be good. i wud want roll bar on mine andseat belt... seat belt $10... muffler shop can bend some pipe and weld a piece of flat iron to it to bolt to the frame to keep mower off us if it rolls... do they roll... not the ones that are REAL CLOSE to the ground??? but the higher ones that were closer to mower than go Kart... and kinda high.. with ... 18" OD tires... 23" OD tires? 25" OD tires.... then they cost so much that might as well go to 265-65-15 tires and 15x8" wheels if it has 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern hubs and they should last 898,000 miles or more on the 1/2 floor of the freeway... not to be confusedd with the 2nd floor of the interstate in a BIG TRUCK
@@gmcinnis6304 lmao your pretty funny dude. 500 is a pretty good budget on a mower to I honestly rather build a nice live axle cart for500 butthese peerless 700 gearboxes make these really pretty nice and fun to drive
Making it serviceable is a good design idea. The GP I have, I redid the steering and clutch on it, and made them to be serviced. The builder of it had put in an idler arm using half in steel bar running vertically through a sleeve in the frame, and the linkages were welded on. My first time racing it, I took a good spill and tweaked that arm, and put me out the race. I cut it out, and rebuilt a new arm using 3/4" shaft, cut keyways, drilled and tapped the ends, and have the new arms mounted to weld hubs. the new housing for the shaft has brass bushings in it, and i would like to add a grease zerk too. the threads at the ends i have bolts in to retain it all together. If i were to damage any component in that part of my setup, I can disassemble it and replace just what's needed.
I like the idea of the removable axle tube. I have seen the idea used on a different chassis with the intent of swapping out between spindles that have front brakes and an axle that doesn't. I believe the reason was with spacing, spindle length to have room for the brakes was enough that a shorter tube was needed. My thought for the future, on implementing this design, a section of plate between the chassis tube and frame, extending froward to reach behind the front axle's rear bracket, to try and help tie it to the rest of the chassis a bit more. I've also thought about for the engine mounting, either a pair of strips of plate going across the underside or a single large plate with a large clearance hole like the frame itself. Also been enjoying this and the previous video with using the Bridgeport! I bought one myself a couple years back for doing home projects, racing mowers being one of them too! I think anyone that does any amount of tinkering that can spare the space should invest in one!
That looks awesome. Also it looks like a lot of work. I hope someone is paying you well for the other two mowers. I take it the rules require a vertical shaft engine and stock style belt drive? I like to hear about the confines that you are building it by. Keep it up, nice work!
I know this video is old but can you please tell me the rims and tires you used for the front and rear? Also looking for info on the front hub you used. I’m building a gp race mower and I really like your setup.
loving the videos, looking forward to the rest of the build. what are you running for front wheels and tires as far as brand and size.keep up the great work
Like your work, great build. Like to know rear axle dimensions and tire and rim sizes front and back please. I'm building my first turf eating machine lol.
Building a legend mower for Arma Should I weld my axle or bolt it? What size square tubing should I get? Keep up good content bud my YT has my build too
I would say 1.5"x2" or 2"x2" box steel 1/8" wall thickness should be good for a full frame mower. I prefer to bolt in my axles, I've had to replace one of the end plates after I hit a rock and got bent pretty bad. It was much easier to unfold the axle and reweld the end plate than do all the work with the axle fixed to the mower. I'll be sure to check out what you have going on too!
@@TheJanticJournal ok thx buddy comment on my videos to give me tips ill deff need it lmao no idea what I'm doing. Arma rules just stock flathead class. Called legend class
I've always thought about it. Getting the steering shaft to the rack would not be easy and might be a kinda heavy setup but I'd love to see someone try it!
go ALLL OUT with those builds... with machine shop in house. the rest of us, do what we can to get to 35? 50 mph with 8" drive pulley and 4.5" driven pulley... put 8" disc on it where the old disc brake was as it wont do much to slow it down, even if old disc is rebuilt... spins toooo fast, burn up the brake pucks too fast... $10 / set. i was giong to go with MC disc and caliper but ... toooo big to put in wheel and too hard to fab up (for me) to mount to axle/wheel... frame. got goldwing caliper from bike. IT WUD STOP the wheel, but where to put the disc??????? cut out on the axle is not all the way to the transaxle???? so ... how to mount it to the axle shaft???? and it not spin when apply the brake?
The royalty free music is always such a mood killer for me lol... Does anyone actually like computer generated "instrumental" music in time lapses? It is by no means just this channel.. this channel is very tasteful with it and always softer than the talking parts.. it's gotta be just me tho right? it's so obnoxious when the time lapse music is louder than the dam video.. people must like it right?? literally every channel does it... I don't have a lot of views on my videos but I refuse to put "music" on videos I'd never listen to on purpose.. I can say for sure that nobody has ever asked me in the comments "hey! Cool stuff bud.. where's the royalty free music?"
Dude you’re killin’ it with the geometry and squaring things up along with your videos being awesome, but when you were welding with clear glasses and just closing your eyes I laughed a lot... that’s some shit I do for sure!
just thorow it together... it is not a Steinway... and Son's GRAND piano. it goes fast, esp for a ridingmower and turns left a lot... or turns R but goes Left. for regular ppl that spend... ~$500 or so on a ok street rding mower... but wud to spend $5000 on a REAL FAST/good steering/stopping riding mower... if we can get the steering and brakes to handle... 35 mph and not kill us, that wud be good. i wud want roll bar on mine andseat belt... seat belt $10... muffler shop can bend some pipe and weld a piece of flat iron to it to bolt to the frame to keep mower off us if it rolls... do they roll... not the ones that are REAL CLOSE to the ground??? but the higher ones that were closer to mower than go Kart... and kinda high.. with ... 18" OD tires... 23" OD tires? 25" OD tires.... then they cost so much that might as well go to 265-65-15 tires and 15x8" wheels if it has 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern hubs and they should last 898,000 miles or more on the 1/2 floor of the freeway... not to be confusedd with the 2nd floor of the interstate in a BIG TRUCK
@@gmcinnis6304 lmao your pretty funny dude. 500 is a pretty good budget on a mower to I honestly rather build a nice live axle cart for500 butthese peerless 700 gearboxes make these really pretty nice and fun to drive
Making it serviceable is a good design idea. The GP I have, I redid the steering and clutch on it, and made them to be serviced. The builder of it had put in an idler arm using half in steel bar running vertically through a sleeve in the frame, and the linkages were welded on. My first time racing it, I took a good spill and tweaked that arm, and put me out the race. I cut it out, and rebuilt a new arm using 3/4" shaft, cut keyways, drilled and tapped the ends, and have the new arms mounted to weld hubs. the new housing for the shaft has brass bushings in it, and i would like to add a grease zerk too. the threads at the ends i have bolts in to retain it all together. If i were to damage any component in that part of my setup, I can disassemble it and replace just what's needed.
I hear that, the mowers are always a project even when they're "done" lol
I like the idea of the removable axle tube.
I have seen the idea used on a different chassis with the intent of swapping out between spindles that have front brakes and an axle that doesn't. I believe the reason was with spacing, spindle length to have room for the brakes was enough that a shorter tube was needed.
My thought for the future, on implementing this design, a section of plate between the chassis tube and frame, extending froward to reach behind the front axle's rear bracket, to try and help tie it to the rest of the chassis a bit more. I've also thought about for the engine mounting, either a pair of strips of plate going across the underside or a single large plate with a large clearance hole like the frame itself.
Also been enjoying this and the previous video with using the Bridgeport! I bought one myself a couple years back for doing home projects, racing mowers being one of them too!
I think anyone that does any amount of tinkering that can spare the space should invest in one!
On my first build and watching you're video's has helped me so much.thank you!
Sweet as Thank's Bloke, coming along nicely. Cheers .
Amazing building series nice vidieo edit👌👌 great work
Could you please make a video of the measurements of the front end and all those pieces please it would help me so much with my build
Drilling simple holes with a Bridgeport...boy, am I outclassed!
cool mister were building one now just getting the 24 h.p. built
Love to see these builds and explanation of the build. Keep up the good work!! I subbed!!!
Great video. The karts are looking good. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the videos in this series!!!
That looks awesome. Also it looks like a lot of work. I hope someone is paying you well for the other two mowers. I take it the rules require a vertical shaft engine and stock style belt drive? I like to hear about the confines that you are building it by. Keep it up, nice work!
Looking nice, learned a lot from your explanations.
Great video
Thanks!
Hey, I'm absolutely loving your work and I'm planing on starting my own fairly soon and I was what rims your running?
Front and rear are Douglas wheels. Fronts are 6×7.25 and rears are 8x8. Thanks for the view!
Love it! Wish they were longer 😩
I know this video is old but can you please tell me the rims and tires you used for the front and rear? Also looking for info on the front hub you used. I’m building a gp race mower and I really like your setup.
Fronts are 7.25x6 and rears are 8x8. Thanks for the comment and sorry for the super late reply lol
loving the videos, looking forward to the rest of the build. what are you running for front wheels and tires as far as brand and size.keep up the great work
Carlisle Turfmaster tires 13x6.5x6 on Douglas wheels 6×7.25 (blue label). Thanks for the support!
You sir have gained a subscriber 👍
Like your work, great build. Like to know rear axle dimensions and tire and rim sizes front and back please. I'm building my first turf eating machine lol.
The rear wheels are 8"×8" with a 4 on 4 bolt pattern. Fronts are 6" wheels that are 7.25" wide. Also running a 36" wide 1-1/4" kart axles.
Building my first lawn tractor. Can you tell me what your front axle size is caster and camber ?
Building a legend mower for Arma
Should I weld my axle or bolt it? What size square tubing should I get? Keep up good content bud my YT has my build too
I would say 1.5"x2" or 2"x2" box steel 1/8" wall thickness should be good for a full frame mower. I prefer to bolt in my axles, I've had to replace one of the end plates after I hit a rock and got bent pretty bad. It was much easier to unfold the axle and reweld the end plate than do all the work with the axle fixed to the mower. I'll be sure to check out what you have going on too!
@@TheJanticJournal ok thx buddy comment on my videos to give me tips ill deff need it lmao no idea what I'm doing. Arma rules just stock flathead class. Called legend class
Lookin dope.
Wait? So you are making front axles to sell? How much?
Why not a single, unitary tie rod and then adjusting essentially out by the wheel?t
what size are the front wheels and tires
Where did you get all the parts to do the steering, love that set up
All the hardware is from Mcmaster Carr, the metal is Online Metals. Thanks for the support!
What size heim joints are you running on your tie rods? They looked bigger than 3/8".
1/2" 20 TPI
@@TheJanticJournal Thanks. I'll keep this in mind for future builds. Definitely beefier than the 3/8" I'm running now.
Where can I find those wheels? And what size are the front wheels and tires?
How wide is the 1 1/2 rectangle tube ?
Whats ur opinion on a rack n pinion setup
I've always thought about it. Getting the steering shaft to the rack would not be easy and might be a kinda heavy setup but I'd love to see someone try it!
What size rims and tires front and rear?
How were you able to get those tires on those rims?
Are you going to be racing these chassis? Keep it up
Yeah, still unsure of what classes at the moment lol
I've been building a cp chassis for about 3 years haha, hoping to get it done this year!!
What Tire size are you using
How long is axle
How wides thos wheels
7.25" Douglas wheels
TheJanticJournal thanks bro love the build i got a Murray
go ALLL OUT with those builds... with machine shop in house. the rest of us, do what we can to get to 35? 50 mph with 8" drive pulley and 4.5" driven pulley... put 8" disc on it where the old disc brake was as it wont do much to slow it down, even if old disc is rebuilt... spins toooo fast, burn up the brake pucks too fast... $10 / set. i was giong to go with MC disc and caliper but ... toooo big to put in wheel and too hard to fab up (for me) to mount to axle/wheel... frame. got goldwing caliper from bike. IT WUD STOP the wheel, but where to put the disc??????? cut out on the axle is not all the way to the transaxle???? so ... how to mount it to the axle shaft???? and it not spin when apply the brake?
The royalty free music is always such a mood killer for me lol... Does anyone actually like computer generated "instrumental" music in time lapses? It is by no means just this channel.. this channel is very tasteful with it and always softer than the talking parts.. it's gotta be just me tho right? it's so obnoxious when the time lapse music is louder than the dam video.. people must like it right?? literally every channel does it... I don't have a lot of views on my videos but I refuse to put "music" on videos I'd never listen to on purpose.. I can say for sure that nobody has ever asked me in the comments "hey! Cool stuff bud.. where's the royalty free music?"