Knife edge, dollar bill gap, 95-110A, 1/16” wire for my sch10 roots. Fast AF and easy to keep a purge. Great video guys! I always learn something watching your videos!
Good teacher, real down to earth cat, I prefer the kinda guy you can both listen to and tag team a joint with. Good job Brother, nice root. Thanks for the video.
Awesome I just got certified for combination pipe tig and 7018 just regular carbon steel pipe but also know 309 stainless on carbon steel... I learned a lot with this video thank you man
That guy's a good instructor, humble and well spoken. One thing though is to not brush stainless like you would carbon, do short strokes to the side instead of up and down.
I find it better to do either up or down but lift up after the stroke and reset also always clean and I mean clean every piece of metal and everything that's going to be touching the work piece
I would have walked the cup,but he is good and he is right what he sayin.I been welding for over 20years and have 10 certifications,but he is pretty dam good.
So i have a good amount of experience but i struggle to get nice colors on my sched 10 stainless caps. I can make it look nice but I think i walk too tight and i heat the pipe up too much? Ive had a few good ones but any tips is much appreciated 👍🏻
It’s those small little tips that make all the difference. Have always had a tough time with sugar in my root. I’ll try that “block” method with the tape. My argon has definitely been leaking out too much in the opening. Thanks for the tips brotha
Amigo siempre debes poner la cinta ,ya que sin esta es imposible hacer el pase de raíz y siempre se te colgaría por el interior o florecerá debido a la contaminación del oxígeno . Todo soldador tiene debe saber que para ejecutar un cordón de raíz en acero inoxidable debe hacer lo que se le llama el proceso de cámara para eliminar el oxígeno del interior de la probeta. Si Tu lo hacías sin este procedimiento osea de que hablamos . Espero mejores en este tema . Suerte y no queda más que seguir mejorando cada día un poquito más. Bendiciones desde Calama Norte grande desierto de atacama Chile . Atte Rodrigo
I worked at a shop that specialized in cryogenic vacuum and pressure vessels. We did a lot of sch 10 stainless. Procedure called out that we had to fit with a knife edge and no gap. .045 filler and a super tight arc was the best way to run that. It was super hard to get used to.
I did exactly the same , set up that is, feathered edge (no landing edge) and I had a 35 degree bevel. I fused the root run, as you say nor easy to master as you are never sure whats happening inside. I found when you arced up I paused for a few seconds before moving off and the arc settled and you know the edges were caught. The client did not want a heavy root flush was the preferred profile
@Sayin wat yeah well neither would a 3/16”s or 5/32 gap. Ain’t no real qc letting you go that far out of weld specs. Sch 10 is a max of 1/8” on paper. If ur qc let’s you get away with more they are worthless. Besides, if you can’t get full pen on sch10 with lay wire you can’t weld and explains why You need to back feed 😂… the dude doing no gap would smoke you
@Sayin wat yeah 5/32 and up is not within code.. Qc can deny it if they want. Of course non union don’t follow code at all. root gap at whatever they want, run beads as wide as they want. Lol we can’t get away with that garbage. Obviously you never been in a nuke.
@Sayin wat I get what your saying tho, some places are a lot more relaxed. But we always try to go by what the process calls for by certs and most are QCs are going to do the same. Say you’re welding carbon 6010/7018. They will hold you to that tolerance of a UA21 and so on. But I’ve been at steel mills that don’t give a fuck. But to say 5/32 and 3/16 is acceptable isn’t necessarily true. A lot of places will not allow it
Stop before the bridge tack and grind it out carefully. Feather out your starts and stops and give it a minute to build your purge back up. Grinding sometimes traps air in there and it takes a minute for the argon to push out the air. Then, just keep right on trucking like that bridge tack was never there
Only 55- 60amps?? Wouldnt even be that low with a 1/16 wire! No wonder it pulls on you so much! 5/32gap and 3/32 rod? Get the amperage up to 85-90. Doesnt close up half as much, punches the root through without fannying around backfeeding, and youll retain much better weld metal integrity. Much less distortion, less carbide precipitation, and less surface oxidation. Rather than having to use a 10 or 12 cup with argon absolutely huffing out of it to keep a decent coloured root, youd get a decent colour using a size 6 cup👍👍
En el proceso Gtaw no se aplica aporte 3/16 no es alambre , este se usa en el proceso Fcaw y va por milímetro ,desde 0.6 a 1.6 . Comúnmente en Gtaw es para chapas no más allá de 12 mm de espesor . Saludos.
Not wrong there, Unless you can weld backhanded. Same as all the "walken the daaawg" bullshit. Learn to weld like that? What are you going to do when there's something in the way lol
Is there much money to be made in welding pipe? I mess around with my Everlast and I really like it but I'm not sure if I should take a course and whether it will be worth it.
“Try to go quick. Take your time” sounds like our most recent safety meeting “We want to talk today about slowing down” 2 minutes later “Alright next topic is going to be efficiency”
Zach Piller I had been using a Lincoln HD, and no matter what I changed the sensitivity to it still flickered so I switched back to a passive lense for now. I wasn’t sure if it was just a problem with that lense or if it was common with all auto’s
All auto will Every once ina while have that problem...all these auto lenses are something new for a long time a lot of people used the same 3 auto lenses...technology on them didn’t start changing till recently with how mainstream welding has gotten...
@@jerrypino5608 I didnt have any issues with it with my cheap amazon helmet i used at tech school my current work buys everyone speedglass 9100s and i have no issues with it except tig pulse pps between 4-19
Why are welders doing this style of welding? I see other videos like this and it's so wild. You don't just cut the arc and grind out a fish eye every time. That's nonsense. Ramp down your amps and gently swirl the puddle until it is tiny, then let off. Also, learn to weld SST without a gap. This whole key hole back feeding nonsense just wastes time. I just do not understand this technique. Also, yeah, have passed X-Ray many times. But hey, it is a good way to make more money by dragging the job out.
I like a tight 1/8th inch gap on my sched 10. Turn the amps up and walk the cup all the way. Heat is your friend. Nice to see other people's methods. Always more than one way to skin a cat
@@mddenis1 I do it both ways. I have good luck face feeding so that's my go to on the bench especially, but back feeding is a great technique to get a good root in a tight spot because you can keep the wire and your feed hand out of your way.
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Knife edge, dollar bill gap, 95-110A, 1/16” wire for my sch10 roots. Fast AF and easy to keep a purge. Great video guys! I always learn something watching your videos!
Can you do a video of this process of yours
@@7Tew7 He has a video doing back feeding which helped me alot. Wish he would post more stuff lol
You are correct my friend problem for me is fabricators.
"Try to go quick, take your time" i like that
It makes sense to welders lol
Lol
That’s welding, sometime there are no words for what your explaining, just takes time.
Welders bro 😂😂😂
Good teacher, real down to earth cat, I prefer the kinda guy you can both listen to and tag team a joint with. Good job Brother, nice root. Thanks for the video.
WOW! You could drive a truck through that gap!
Top shelf welding, well done!
Idk a qc in the world who would let you do a 3/16 gap… wayyyyy outside the parameters of the weld procedure.
I stopped by to see... and was impressed.. everything.. good teaching, good video.. everything was good..
Awesome I just got certified for combination pipe tig and 7018 just regular carbon steel pipe but also know 309 stainless on carbon steel... I learned a lot with this video thank you man
This dude ain't no joke! RESPECTO!
That guy's a good instructor, humble and well spoken. One thing though is to not brush stainless like you would carbon, do short strokes to the side instead of up and down.
Why not to brush stainless?
@@mddenis1 as long as it’s a stainless steel brush it doesn’t matter, don’t know what this guy is on about
I find it better to do either up or down but lift up after the stroke and reset also always clean and I mean clean every piece of metal and everything that's going to be touching the work piece
Great episode 🔥
That sounds effect though lol when testing for leaks lol
I would have walked the cup,but he is good and he is right what he sayin.I been welding for over 20years and have 10 certifications,but he is pretty dam good.
wish yall put a lens to the camera so we can see his dipping method, nice vid anyway
So i have a good amount of experience but i struggle to get nice colors on my sched 10 stainless caps. I can make it look nice but I think i walk too tight and i heat the pipe up too much? Ive had a few good ones but any tips is much appreciated 👍🏻
great video wish we had better arc shots of that root. you slicked that thing in.
It’s those small little tips that make all the difference. Have always had a tough time with sugar in my root. I’ll try that “block” method with the tape. My argon has definitely been leaking out too much in the opening. Thanks for the tips brotha
Amigo siempre debes poner la cinta ,ya que sin esta es imposible hacer el pase de raíz y siempre se te colgaría por el interior o florecerá debido a la contaminación del oxígeno . Todo soldador tiene debe saber que para ejecutar un cordón de raíz en acero inoxidable debe hacer lo que se le llama el proceso de cámara para eliminar el oxígeno del interior de la probeta. Si Tu lo hacías sin este procedimiento osea de que hablamos . Espero mejores en este tema . Suerte y no queda más que seguir mejorando cada día un poquito más. Bendiciones desde Calama Norte grande desierto de atacama Chile . Atte Rodrigo
Good explanation tie in very important schedule 10 stainless
I worked at a shop that specialized in cryogenic vacuum and pressure vessels. We did a lot of sch 10 stainless. Procedure called out that we had to fit with a knife edge and no gap. .045 filler and a super tight arc was the best way to run that.
It was super hard to get used to.
I did exactly the same , set up that is, feathered edge (no landing edge) and I had a 35 degree bevel. I fused the root run, as you say nor easy to master as you are never sure whats happening inside. I found when you arced up I paused for a few seconds before moving off and the arc settled and you know the edges were caught. The client did not want a heavy root flush was the preferred profile
@Sayin wat cool
@Sayin wat yeah well neither would a 3/16”s or 5/32 gap. Ain’t no real qc letting you go that far out of weld specs. Sch 10 is a max of 1/8” on paper. If ur qc let’s you get away with more they are worthless. Besides, if you can’t get full pen on sch10 with lay wire you can’t weld and explains why You need to back feed 😂… the dude doing no gap would smoke you
@Sayin wat yeah 5/32 and up is not within code.. Qc can deny it if they want. Of course non union don’t follow code at all. root gap at whatever they want, run beads as wide as they want. Lol we can’t get away with that garbage. Obviously you never been in a nuke.
@Sayin wat I get what your saying tho, some places are a lot more relaxed. But we always try to go by what the process calls for by certs and most are QCs are going to do the same. Say you’re welding carbon 6010/7018. They will hold you to that tolerance of a UA21 and so on. But I’ve been at steel mills that don’t give a fuck. But to say 5/32 and 3/16 is acceptable isn’t necessarily true. A lot of places will not allow it
Thank you 🙏🎉
Thanks ...for sharing ..good work.
Can I please ask if you are done with your root and you weld your hot pass. What did I do wrong when the root gets damaged in the process
To hot and or to slow, or sitting to long in the middle. Gotta focus your heat more towards the bevel face
What size filler Rod was that 1/8 or 3/32
Just wondering, why do y’all not just back feed it like you would carbon. I heard it’s basically the same
Brother if you doing like this welding..so why you don't use rotation table
Very good hints on the gap
what size tungsten ?
What kind of pad were you grinding the stainless with, tiger pow or an average disk????
❤ Grace video brother
Thanks for sharing with us 👍👍.
Could you try to make video about 6GR smaw welding?
What is the correct ampers in the root pass sir 4biginer tanx 4 responds
In the union not timed they give u up to 8 hours
Beautiful brother 👍💪😉💪
Excellent video 👍👍 you are for real.
When you come to the bridge tack, what do you do next
Stop before the bridge tack and grind it out carefully. Feather out your starts and stops and give it a minute to build your purge back up. Grinding sometimes traps air in there and it takes a minute for the argon to push out the air. Then, just keep right on trucking like that bridge tack was never there
What is classification of filler wire ?
Good work
Nice information sir😁
ecxelente técnica saludos desde Venezuela 🇻🇪💪
Great👍👍👍👍👍👍👏👏 from🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳
What happened to hjalmar?
De que calibre es el aporte que usas para el pase de raíz?
1/8
Only 55- 60amps?? Wouldnt even be that low with a 1/16 wire! No wonder it pulls on you so much!
5/32gap and 3/32 rod? Get the amperage up to 85-90. Doesnt close up half as much, punches the root through without fannying around backfeeding, and youll retain much better weld metal integrity. Much less distortion, less carbide precipitation, and less surface oxidation. Rather than having to use a 10 or 12 cup with argon absolutely huffing out of it to keep a decent coloured root, youd get a decent colour using a size 6 cup👍👍
Please give some details on your method - what's the gap and wire size? Freehand or walk the cup? Feeding wire from outside?
Who makes the beanie he is wearing
What size wire was he using? And tungsten ?
i’d like to see a video using 1/8 filler wire beceause they are common on the field unlike the 3/16. Aside from that, good job bro looks good.
En el proceso Gtaw no se aplica aporte 3/16 no es alambre , este se usa en el proceso Fcaw y va por milímetro ,desde 0.6 a 1.6 . Comúnmente en Gtaw es para chapas no más allá de 12 mm de espesor . Saludos.
If A106 is carbon steel pipe what is stainless steel pipe?
great....but you need to use both hands .....or you will have some trubles in a plant .boiler or refineries jobs...aanyway good job..
Not wrong there, Unless you can weld backhanded.
Same as all the "walken the daaawg" bullshit. Learn to weld like that? What are you going to do when there's something in the way lol
I can weld with both hands but I don't do it on video because there are new guys that would find it hard trying to do it with their opposite hand.
Great job bro
Корень шва получился чёткий! 👍👍👌👨🏭👨🏭
Is there much money to be made in welding pipe? I mess around with my Everlast and I really like it but I'm not sure if I should take a course and whether it will be worth it.
Yes
i make 95/hr rig welder in ND oil patch
Why did u use free hand.u have to hand movement with pipe and cup..
Good job
What size tungsten
Good work 😉
Very impressive
Keep posting
That is awesome welder someday I will be as good right on brother's
I want learn tig welding pls guide me
Is there a way to use stick welding for stainless steel? (Since there are rods available for stainless steel.)
Yes. Check out Northern Sweden welding channel👍
316 rods
Are you supposed to purge it the whole time, or are you done with it after the root?
If you purge correctly you wont need to.
But you should test the part and look for holes before continuing to weld.
Dam good brother
“Try to go quick. Take your time” sounds like our most recent safety meeting “We want to talk today about slowing down” 2 minutes later “Alright next topic is going to be efficiency”
can y'all do a tutorial with alloy 20
This is duplex???
Why you not upload video 6" with stik?...?..?...
Best welding ever.👍
Thank you. Good lecture.
We can you buy gold lens at?
love this it's really getting me back into welding these tips are awesome
lol
i can see the cowboy in the pipe when tacking. need to clean that up to not screw yourself if you're not used to it. especially for testing.
what happened to lamar?
The licking sound😂
Don't need to grind the end start back and melt it then add wire
I want to learn.
Lo felicito compadre
nice weld,...
Nice
❤❤❤❤❤
Buen intento compañero 😎👍🏼
What gas is he using on this stainless?
Argon
Very good
👍👍
How amp
Root five points, weld facing sucks.... But overall the video is useful👍
From Russia....
nice root keep make videos thank you
Como puedo comprar los cristales oscuro y si pueden enviar a España,gracias
El primer comentario tiene el link. Envian internacional tu pagas el envio.
Essa raiz ficou top
Have you had problems with the lense flashing you when you’re tig welding?
you need to turn up your sensitivity from like 2 to 4 at a minumum to stop the flickering
Zach Piller I had been using a Lincoln HD, and no matter what I changed the sensitivity to it still flickered so I switched back to a passive lense for now. I wasn’t sure if it was just a problem with that lense or if it was common with all auto’s
All auto will Every once ina while have that problem...all these auto lenses are something new for a long time a lot of people used the same 3 auto lenses...technology on them didn’t start changing till recently with how mainstream welding has gotten...
@@jerrypino5608 I didnt have any issues with it with my cheap amazon helmet i used at tech school my current work buys everyone speedglass 9100s and i have no issues with it except tig pulse pps between 4-19
My snap on auto doesnt do it at all. It has served me wonderfully with tig mig stick in all positions
Why are welders doing this style of welding? I see other videos like this and it's so wild. You don't just cut the arc and grind out a fish eye every time. That's nonsense. Ramp down your amps and gently swirl the puddle until it is tiny, then let off. Also, learn to weld SST without a gap. This whole key hole back feeding nonsense just wastes time. I just do not understand this technique. Also, yeah, have passed X-Ray many times.
But hey, it is a good way to make more money by dragging the job out.
I like a tight 1/8th inch gap on my sched 10. Turn the amps up and walk the cup all the way. Heat is your friend. Nice to see other people's methods. Always more than one way to skin a cat
@Theone82 ain't that always the way, too. Lol
It works on alloys though. That's the only time I use bridge tacks.
Do you feed the wire from outside or back feeding?
@@mddenis1 I do it both ways. I have good luck face feeding so that's my go to on the bench especially, but back feeding is a great technique to get a good root in a tight spot because you can keep the wire and your feed hand out of your way.
เซื้อมแข็งกับกาผมอ่ะป้าว🤣ཽཾ
มิเอาสวยเอาเร็ว ผมไปแล้วก้าวธัรหาลายได้
Is hot walk the cup
impresionante
I wold like to see the puddle and the keyhole
I can see he isn't useing a foot pedal,
Channel welding like to. 🙏🙏🙏👍👍👍😘😘❤️❤️💥💥
Hola amigos,podrian hacer los mismos videos para los latinos que no entendemos inglés?
Can’t see the puddle or the push need a darker lense
That heat effected zone tho
Too high a heat input, caused by too low amperage causing too low travel speed👎
Joss 🙏👍