Thank you again my friend. Replaced both ball joints on my '90 240 DL thanks to this video. One thing I ran into that helped me a lot was using the jack that came with my Volvo to hold the control arm down far enough to attach the new ball joint, this made the job incredibly easier. Otherwise I seemed to need an extra set of hands, which I didn't have. If you use this method, be mindful not to press the jack against your brake lines or anything else that it might damage. I had no issue, and found that using the jack made the job much, much easier. Cheers.
I am replacing the ball joints on my 89 240 wagon tomorrow. After watching your superbly crafted video, i am confident the job will go well. Thank you for being my volvo teacher!!! Also i like the sound of the language you and your partner are using. I am having difficulty recognizing it? My guess someplace in eastern Europe? Al the best Bruce the swimmer New Rochelle, N.Y.
I plan on buying a volvo soon and I have no mechanic skills. It was interesting to see video. Good job explaining the procedure and good job capturing everything on video.
Nice video. Two constructive comments, 1) lemforder box says Made in Spain 2) It would be nice to see how you achieved getting torque to plate (44 ft-lbs). That seems to be the tricky part when one has limited tools. I enjoy your other videos, keep up the good work.
Very useful and well made video that shows what is required step by step. I used genuine Volvo replacement ball joints - a little tip is to use the old nut to pull in the tapers, and then once locked in, replace with the new Volvo locking nut that becomes very tight once the threads enter the exit side of the nut. The topside of the Volvo locking nut is very slightly oval, which has the effect of pinching and locking on to the threads. However, if you use them when attempting to pull in the tapers, it is very difficult, even when using an impact wrench. Apart from the ball joint being a critical factor in maintaining steering, and good engineering be essential for safety reasons, I have found the after-market dust covers to need replacing at every MOT since they became part of the test. While after-market dust covers are cheap as chips, the labour involved in fitting them makes them a curse. So in the long term I am trusting that the genuine Volvo replacements will eventually save me money, as well as assuring safety.
First of all thanks for the comment. I do see now that it is made in Spain. I did a ball joint on my S80 and it was made in Germany. Torque was achieved using a help from pipe wrench as a counter hold. It is not on video.
hey thanks a lot for the video..i have a Volvo s 60 (2004) and the ball joint dropped so its digging a deep line in the rim and makes noise while a drive...would this video apply to my fix??thank You
A little misguiding. Maybe I'm just supporting it wrong, but when you lift the car, one of the 10mm bolts sits down onto the control arm bolt and I cannot see any way to get it out without pulling the whole control arm off.
thanks for this video, I'm trying to do the same thing on my 240. However, I'm having trouble removing the ball joint from the strut anchor, it's very stuck. Do you have any recommendations on how to get it off?
Got everything off and I'm currently stuck on this very part. I've hit it with a hammer multiple times with no luck. It's like it's frozen or worse, welded on there. Did you ever figure out a solution?
As always when tightening big bolts, there is no need for a torque wrench, just do them fully tight. That is, tighten as hard as you can with your normal hand tools. The only exception is cylinder heads and internal engine components. Oh, and the torque wrench cliked a bunch of times and you kept tightening?? What's up with that?
You really should use the torque wrench if possible. If you tighten bolts too much (which happens really often) they will crack or get stuck in the place and that's just stupidness.
Thank you again my friend. Replaced both ball joints on my '90 240 DL thanks to this video. One thing I ran into that helped me a lot was using the jack that came with my Volvo to hold the control arm down far enough to attach the new ball joint, this made the job incredibly easier. Otherwise I seemed to need an extra set of hands, which I didn't have. If you use this method, be mindful not to press the jack against your brake lines or anything else that it might damage. I had no issue, and found that using the jack made the job much, much easier. Cheers.
I need to do this job on my 240. Thanks for making this video.
I am replacing the ball joints on my 89 240 wagon tomorrow. After watching your superbly crafted video, i am confident the job will go well. Thank you for being my volvo teacher!!! Also i like the sound of the language you and your partner are using. I am having difficulty recognizing it? My guess someplace in eastern Europe? Al the best Bruce the swimmer New Rochelle, N.Y.
Привет из ЛНР, ДОНБАСС!! У меня тоже такая вольво 244 GLE 1979 2.0 собираю уже как год, будет машиной выходного дня, мечта с детства!!!)
It clicks for the torqe every time. You have overtighten everything..
I plan on buying a volvo soon and I have no mechanic skills. It was interesting to see video. Good job explaining the procedure and good job capturing everything on video.
When hammering down stuff, put the nut back on so you don't mushroom down the thing
how not to use a torque wrench.
Oh yes! Stupid🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Thanks for the reply, I've watched your other videos and enjoy them. Keep up the good work.
Your video is a good way to show how to do it.
sandals and white socks - proper slavic !
Nice video. Two constructive comments, 1) lemforder box says Made in Spain 2) It would be nice to see how you achieved getting torque to plate (44 ft-lbs). That seems to be the tricky part when one has limited tools.
I enjoy your other videos, keep up the good work.
Very useful and well made video that shows what is required step by step.
I used genuine Volvo replacement ball joints - a little tip is to use the old nut to pull in the tapers, and then once locked in, replace with the new Volvo locking nut that becomes very tight once the threads enter the exit side of the nut. The topside of the Volvo locking nut is very slightly oval, which has the effect of pinching and locking on to the threads. However, if you use them when attempting to pull in the tapers, it is very difficult, even when using an impact wrench.
Apart from the ball joint being a critical factor in maintaining steering, and good engineering be essential for safety reasons, I have found the after-market dust covers to need replacing at every MOT since they became part of the test. While after-market dust covers are cheap as chips, the labour involved in fitting them makes them a curse. So in the long term I am trusting that the genuine Volvo replacements will eventually save me money, as well as assuring safety.
Superb video. Thanks!
First of all thanks for the comment.
I do see now that it is made in Spain. I did a ball joint on my S80 and it was made in Germany.
Torque was achieved using a help from pipe wrench as a counter hold. It is not on video.
Thanks for the informative video; I think I can do my own ball joints now!
the clicking noise means its the right torque you know.. lol
"This is made in Germany"
*looks at label*
"Made in Spain"
hey thanks a lot for the video..i have a Volvo s 60 (2004) and the ball joint dropped so its digging a deep line in the rim and makes noise while a drive...would this video apply to my fix??thank You
Might be a little play in the tie rod end, too. Look carefully.
A little misguiding. Maybe I'm just supporting it wrong, but when you lift the car, one of the 10mm bolts sits down onto the control arm bolt and I cannot see any way to get it out without pulling the whole control arm off.
85 foot pound is not 75 foot pound. Every time he moved that torque wrench it clicked and he was saying. Not yet, Not Yet LOL
Those balljoint to control arm are probably borderline about to strip the threads and or break the bolt. I'm guessing around 150ft/lbs
No you S60 ball joint is different.
Может мне кто-то рассказать, чем отличаются шаровые с изгибом и без? Заранее спасибо.
How are these ball joints holding up over the years? Are they still good?
+jayleamz1973 I put only around 20K km and still good.
Good to know, thanks. Appreciate it.
thanks for this video, I'm trying to do the same thing on my 240. However, I'm having trouble removing the ball joint from the strut anchor, it's very stuck. Do you have any recommendations on how to get it off?
Got everything off and I'm currently stuck on this very part. I've hit it with a hammer multiple times with no luck. It's like it's frozen or worse, welded on there. Did you ever figure out a solution?
ООО, ПРИВЕТ РУССКИЕ!!!)))
my drain bolt is a square
what kind of socket should I use?
Adjustable wrench.
4:17
njenjenjenjenjejnejne
05:40 what type of book is that name please?
www.ipdusa.com/products/5103/101927-bentley-service-manual
volvosweden could i get one but from another type of car
+Crazy Villarruel Dont know.
Made in Germany????? Are you blind? On the box i saw made in Spain. The writing on the box is in Swedish.
As always when tightening big bolts, there is no need for a torque wrench, just do them fully tight. That is, tighten as hard as you can with your normal hand tools. The only exception is cylinder heads and internal engine components.
Oh, and the torque wrench cliked a bunch of times and you kept tightening?? What's up with that?
clicked like 8times:)
You really should use the torque wrench if possible. If you tighten bolts too much (which happens really often) they will crack or get stuck in the place and that's just stupidness.
SgtMcCullin and when you or next owner tries to loosen it its stuck due to rust :)