Zero voltage battery brought back with a DC welder
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ม.ค. 2022
- battery with zero voltage that sat outside for more than a year.
part 1
Welder
amzn.to/3MxMlwq
Charger
amzn.to/34pu9UM
Load tester (better than what I use)
amzn.to/3MpKudj
Solar charge controller and panel (I like to use solar to keep batteries topped off when not in use)
amzn.to/3hIKgzQ
amzn.to/3hOWHKi
Keep an eye on temps
amzn.to/3pNbE3U - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
It works, brought back six 7yr old 8volt batteries that had NO voltage, rode the golf cart 5 miles yesterday and it was still strong when i parked it!!!
Thank you!!!!!
Heck yeah!! Glad it worked
Hello, I subscribed to your channel, I discovered it only now, it's very interesting how you recover batteries with acid, I'm interested in saving mine too, I'll keep an eye on you, the channel is interesting, good luck in all your actions I wish only well.
So what brand and model number of your welder and where did you buy. Thank you for your response and video.
It's in the description
Have you refilled the cells with distilled whi- i mean 😅 water?
Hey bud you need to top off those cells with distilled water
Thanks for your comment, I didn't expect this battery to come back to life, but it did so I since have topped it off with distilled water
I just bought a small dc welder just for this purpose. I haven't used it yet, but the no-load output voltage is 60 volts. Is yours this high? Does it drop when you hook it to the battery?
It's not that high, proceed at your own risk
@@PRSH8YAPROJECTS I did proceed. All went well. Started at 40 amps for 5 minutes, then 50, then 75, 100, then 140. All went well until near the end. Turns out the little DC welder I bought draws a little too much power for the 14/3 cord I had. It got warm and then tripped the breaker. My garage is wired with 12/2 on 20's, so I'm guessing my cord getting hot overloaded things. I did just go out and buy a nice 12/3 cord. The final cycle was almost complete when it tripped, so I called it done. The battery I used is a 600 amp, that only had about 220 to begin with. It's a bit over 600 now, and the battery tests as "good" again. Thanks for the vid :)
Glad it worked out!!!
@@PRSH8YAPROJECTS Another quick question for you. My welder isn't the same one you've got, but it's similar. When i turn the welder up over 125 it starts to really draw the current from my garage wiring. It will kick the 20 amp breaker if it's been running a while. I can get to 140 if everything's cold, but it'll only run a few minutes before it trips. I rewired the garage when we moved in using 12/2, and installed heavier 20 amp outlets. I ran a nice 14/3 cord at first (which also got very warm), so I bought a nice 25 ft 12/3 cord. The new cord doesn't get warm, but the wiring at the box does, and it'll still kick the breaker. How is your wiring set up for your rig? Have you had any issues like I'm having?
@@vbrad5111 The circuit breakers typically use a bimetallic bar of metal. As more current passes by it, it heats up and bends slightly due to different metals on either side of that bar. When it gets warped enough, it trips and disconnects the power. There are two ways to trip the breaker. If you have a dead short, it would immediately trip due to the sudden surge of current. The alternate way is if you get close to the rated current and continuously run it at the max level, the heat would build up and would eventually trip the breaker. If you have loose wires or corrosion in the wires/contacts/breakers, it adds resistance and that also increases the heat build up. As the current goes up, there is a threshold where this resistance increases the heat and creates a thermal problem. That is one of the reasons you see fires in electrical outlets caused by corrosion in the wire or contacts and that builds up the heat in that localized area.
Your entire system has to handle the current that you're putting through. This includes the circuit breaker, wires and the outlets. It sounds like you need to have a 30A subpanel with 10/2 wires or switch to 220 volt on your DC welder to drop your current in half. Without knowing what the voltage is at with the 140A setting, its hard to figure out what your current load is on your 110V outlet. With the 20A circuit breaker, and assuming your DC welder actually puts out 140A at some voltage, the maximum voltage you can have is around 15.7 volts. At 20A, the 110 outlet can handle 2200 watts at most (20 x 110). If your welder is putting out 140A, that means the max voltage is 15.7V (2200 watt / 140 amp). If the voltage is higher than that, let's say 20V, that means you're drawing more current than what the outlets and wiring can handle which is not safe and the reason why you trip the breakers.
If you switched to 220V system, it means you only draw half the current on the outlets so you can go up to 31.4 volts at 140A. If you went with a 30A circuit, you can go up to 23.5 volts. In reality, your voltage would be at some value between 12 and 15v in most cases. You really shouldn't be running the current on your DC welder that high on the battery continuously.
Burn Baby Burn
What amps are you pumping thro the welder?
Great question, I'll have to measure that
I start at 40amps and by the 3rd session i am usually up to 160amps, if it starts boiling out to bad i will back it down a little.
That's good information
10 amps for a battery that's supposed to put out about 600amps? Yeah, she might not make it.
Surprisingly no, the battery gets better with each cycle on the welder. Thanks for your comment
Welder on 5 munutes off 1 hour to cool, repeat til battery is at capacity..... it is slow but it works!!